0:00:02 > 0:00:05This programme contains some strong language
0:00:05 > 0:00:08Look at this place! Simply breathtaking.
0:00:08 > 0:00:10Welcome to New Guinea -
0:00:10 > 0:00:12the world's largest jungle island.
0:00:12 > 0:00:17One of the most remote and unexplored parts of our world.
0:00:17 > 0:00:22It's very intimidating, potentially very dangerous,
0:00:22 > 0:00:26but also one of the most exciting places on the planet.
0:00:26 > 0:00:30Running from its mountainous heart over 500km,
0:00:30 > 0:00:32through pristine wilderness,
0:00:32 > 0:00:35wild gorges and tropical jungle out to the sea...
0:00:37 > 0:00:39..is the mighty Baliem River.
0:00:42 > 0:00:44I was expecting it to be big...
0:00:46 > 0:00:48..but I wasn't expecting that.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53No-one has ever travelled the full length of this untamed river before.
0:00:53 > 0:00:58We've managed to turn a simple side trip into an absolute epic.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04I'm Steve Backshall, I'm a naturalist and adventurer.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06It just looks like there should be dinosaurs everywhere.
0:01:06 > 0:01:10I want to explore the river and discover more about the remarkable
0:01:10 > 0:01:13variety of worlds through which it travels.
0:01:14 > 0:01:15Ow, shoot!
0:01:17 > 0:01:18It is home to ancient tribes.
0:01:21 > 0:01:25I want to see how they are coping with the modern world.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29When they are in mourning they will cut off their own fingers as a sign of grief.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32I will be searching for some of the world's scariest animals...
0:01:32 > 0:01:35'It was basically eating its way through the village.'
0:01:35 > 0:01:39..and exploring a vast, uncharted underground world.
0:01:39 > 0:01:41Now that is impressive.
0:01:41 > 0:01:45But the Baliem is so inaccessible, that the only way to uncover
0:01:45 > 0:01:49its secrets is to travel its length from source to sea...
0:01:49 > 0:01:52We are committed now.
0:01:52 > 0:01:53..by any means possible.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59It could give us a unique insight into one of the last truly
0:01:59 > 0:02:03wild places on Earth. Where the hell are you taking us?
0:02:03 > 0:02:05Or it could be a journey...
0:02:07 > 0:02:09..too far.
0:02:09 > 0:02:10SCREAMING
0:02:22 > 0:02:24Oh, wow, look at that!
0:02:26 > 0:02:28That is just gorgeous.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40It is the first day of our five-week expedition in New Guinea to travel
0:02:40 > 0:02:42the length of the Baliem River.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50It is located in the province of Papua,
0:02:50 > 0:02:53the western half of the island of New Guinea.
0:02:54 > 0:02:58It was once a Dutch colony but now it is part of Indonesia.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03Just knowing that there are huge areas here that are
0:03:03 > 0:03:07still unexplored, undiscovered, even now in the 21st century,
0:03:07 > 0:03:10just sets the hairs up on the back of my neck -
0:03:10 > 0:03:13that kind of sense of expectation of what might be ahead.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19Our journey begins 3,500 metres above sea level
0:03:19 > 0:03:21in the central highlands.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25Running for over 1,600km,
0:03:25 > 0:03:28this mountain range is longer than the Alps,
0:03:28 > 0:03:30and is one of the wettest places on the planet.
0:03:33 > 0:03:35There it is!
0:03:37 > 0:03:39That is my first sight of Lake Habbema.
0:03:41 > 0:03:46This 5km-long lake is where the Baliem River begins its life.
0:03:46 > 0:03:52Below us now are incredible, high-altitude montane forests
0:03:52 > 0:03:55and there is nothing there apart from the odd river kind of twisting
0:03:55 > 0:03:56and turning in between them.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04Our 500km journey will start in the wild
0:04:04 > 0:04:08central highlands and end at the Pacific Ocean.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13In this first part of the expedition we are aiming to kayak through
0:04:13 > 0:04:18deep, dark gorges, and explore giant caves,
0:04:18 > 0:04:21before reaching the Baliem Grand Valley,
0:04:21 > 0:04:24a land inhabited by the ancient Dani people.
0:04:46 > 0:04:50We've landed a few kilometres from Lake Habbema,
0:04:50 > 0:04:54where the water is just deep enough to launch our kayaks.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58I don't think any of us expected it to be this special.
0:04:58 > 0:05:00It is beautiful, it's absolutely stunning.
0:05:00 > 0:05:05It is beautiful, it's pristine and the river is clear.
0:05:05 > 0:05:08But what lies ahead is unknown.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11So there are no decent maps of where we are right now.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14All of the sort of research that we have done about this area
0:05:14 > 0:05:16has been from satellite imagery.
0:05:16 > 0:05:19All of a sudden, it's real.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23All we do know is that for the next 15km,
0:05:23 > 0:05:28we will be heading into a series of uninhabited, steep-sided gorges.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32Ex-marine commando Aldo Kane is our safety expert.
0:05:32 > 0:05:36This gives a bit of a wrong impression of what is probably
0:05:36 > 0:05:39going to be coming up as well with the amount of drop and descent
0:05:39 > 0:05:42that we've got between here and the bottom of that gorge.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45To stand a chance of pulling off this daring adventure,
0:05:45 > 0:05:49I've put together a team of some of the world's top expedition kayakers
0:05:49 > 0:05:53and rafters led by New Zealander Jordy Searle.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55This is going to be a challenge.
0:05:55 > 0:05:59You know, anywhere that has never been charted before and that we
0:05:59 > 0:06:02know nothing about, there is always challenges.
0:06:02 > 0:06:07The film crew and support team are following in an inflatable raft.
0:06:07 > 0:06:11I do believe in my heart that this is one of the greatest expeditions
0:06:11 > 0:06:13there is left to do on the planet.
0:06:13 > 0:06:15You know, it has everything.
0:06:20 > 0:06:23Finally, we're on the Baliem River.
0:06:25 > 0:06:26Yeah, boys.
0:06:28 > 0:06:30Heading downstream...
0:06:35 > 0:06:36..500km to the sea.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46Around us, the plants and trees are adapted to living at altitude.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53And for the moment it is just running nice and easy,
0:06:53 > 0:06:57nice and gentle, just a lovely way to get started.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25The peace and tranquillity up here is just extraordinary.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28And all of the trees are covered in moss which kind of deadens
0:07:28 > 0:07:29all the sound.
0:07:31 > 0:07:33It is just silent.
0:07:35 > 0:07:41Ahead of us we're just starting to get the landscapes steepening
0:07:41 > 0:07:44and this could well be the beginning of that gorge.
0:07:49 > 0:07:53This upper section of the river winds its way over glacial deposits...
0:07:55 > 0:07:57..but when it hits the limestone bedrock,
0:07:57 > 0:07:59it changes character abruptly.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06Over millions of years, water has percolated through cracks
0:08:06 > 0:08:09in the limestone, forming caves and passages.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14When these collapse, they leave behind debris-strewn gorges
0:08:14 > 0:08:15like this one.
0:08:15 > 0:08:18Wow!
0:08:18 > 0:08:20We are kayaking through what could have once been an underground
0:08:20 > 0:08:22cave system.
0:08:22 > 0:08:25So we are in the gorge
0:08:25 > 0:08:27and it is utterly spectacular.
0:08:28 > 0:08:29Very, very steep-sided.
0:08:31 > 0:08:32We are committed now.
0:08:39 > 0:08:42As the river enters the gorge, the narrowing of the cliff walls
0:08:42 > 0:08:45forces the water to flow faster,
0:08:45 > 0:08:47and we hit our first rapid.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56I started kayaking when I was 12...
0:08:57 > 0:08:59..and I paddle some big rivers,
0:08:59 > 0:09:02but this will push me to my limits.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05- Sharp rocks to the underside of the raft, you know.- Yeah.
0:09:08 > 0:09:10The erosion is ongoing,
0:09:10 > 0:09:15so fresh rock falls keep filling the riverbed with more jagged rocks.
0:09:15 > 0:09:16Stay here.
0:09:16 > 0:09:18'It is bad news for us.'
0:09:18 > 0:09:20This is our first big rapid.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22'Especially our boats.'
0:09:22 > 0:09:24The boys are going to go ahead and scout.
0:09:24 > 0:09:28Let's see if we can bring the raft down.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32Our plan for running rapids is to send safety kayaker Barney Young
0:09:32 > 0:09:35ahead, so he can scout a line through the white water.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39Then I will follow with Jordy and David Bain.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43OK, Steve. Go.
0:09:43 > 0:09:44- All good?- Yeah, all good.
0:09:50 > 0:09:53I've got to try and follow the fast flow line down the left-hand side.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00But it is taking me close to the jagged limestone cliff.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04Too close.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18I've nearly torn the bottom out my boat already.
0:10:31 > 0:10:33Up, up, up here.
0:10:33 > 0:10:35Up, up, up.
0:10:35 > 0:10:36Nice, mate.
0:10:38 > 0:10:40We are through our first rapid.
0:10:43 > 0:10:45But there's a lot worse to come.
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- Yeah, that's good paddling. - Thank you.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51And you know that compliment's real, cos I don't compliment poms easily.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53HE LAUGHS
0:10:53 > 0:10:57Now it is the turn of the support crew in the raft.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00One, two, three.
0:11:00 > 0:11:04Our worry is that the sharp rocks could damage the inflatable raft...
0:11:05 > 0:11:07..so the boat has to be guided down.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12The rock is impossibly spiky.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16It is like daggers. And that could...
0:11:16 > 0:11:20Well, it could pretty much rip the bottom out of our high-impact plastic boat.
0:11:20 > 0:11:26The raft is, well, very, very vulnerable.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29This is the first set of rapids and they're nothing in comparison to
0:11:29 > 0:11:34what we think is going to be further down and it is already hard work.
0:11:34 > 0:11:37With the raft over the worst of the sharp limestone...
0:11:37 > 0:11:42- I'm ready.- Three, two, one, go.
0:11:42 > 0:11:43..we all head on.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- Nice, Steve.- Gorgeous.
0:12:03 > 0:12:08No kayaker has ever entered this impenetrable highland gorge before.
0:12:11 > 0:12:15It is even possible we could be the first people ever to come here.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26So all we need now is for the perfect campsite to open up for us.
0:12:28 > 0:12:29Good luck, bro.
0:12:32 > 0:12:34Finally we emerge from the steep-sided gorge.
0:12:38 > 0:12:40Oh, chaps, I think we have got something.
0:12:42 > 0:12:44Ahead, a small grassy island...
0:12:46 > 0:12:48..in the middle of the Baliem.
0:12:48 > 0:12:50You beauty!
0:12:52 > 0:12:54All the faff aside, mate...
0:12:55 > 0:12:57..it's a pleasure.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14Well, we cut it pretty thin, but we have found paradise.
0:13:14 > 0:13:16We have got the most extraordinary campsite here.
0:13:16 > 0:13:21It is a raised, sandy island in the middle of the river.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23That is going to be perfect to camp on.
0:13:26 > 0:13:28While the river team prepare camp...
0:13:28 > 0:13:29It is going to get cold, bro.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33..I am off to find some of the life
0:13:33 > 0:13:37that calls this high-altitude world home.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39This place is a botanist's dream.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44Everything has something else living off it, like this.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46This is the ant plant.
0:13:46 > 0:13:52You've got this bizarre kind of big bulb sat here on top of this rotting
0:13:52 > 0:13:59tree, and this is a remarkable plant because it is also a home for ants.
0:13:59 > 0:14:03It is the perfect example of symbiosis -
0:14:03 > 0:14:08two organisms living side-by-side with mutual benefit.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11The ants gain a house because inside here are little compartments where
0:14:11 > 0:14:14they live, and the plant gets protection because anything that
0:14:14 > 0:14:17tries to get stuck into it and eat it gets a mouthful of ants.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21If I cut this open
0:14:21 > 0:14:22then what you will see inside...
0:14:26 > 0:14:29..is all of those chambers
0:14:29 > 0:14:34where the ants live, and down the bottom there is where they have
0:14:34 > 0:14:37their eggs and their larvae.
0:14:37 > 0:14:39This one is only tiny, about the size of my fist,
0:14:39 > 0:14:43but they get to be the size of basketballs.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47Huge. And I'm getting eaten alive now.
0:14:47 > 0:14:48Think I'll take the message.
0:15:00 > 0:15:04You know, this is what I wanted to do when I was knee-high,
0:15:04 > 0:15:07but I never thought it would actually happen.
0:15:07 > 0:15:12And, you know, moments like this are unbelievably precious.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19I've got some good tinder and kindling here.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28The force of not knowing what is ahead and being the first people
0:15:28 > 0:15:31to see something is a really powerful one.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37I don't take it for granted for a second.
0:15:53 > 0:15:54Morning.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01I slept great.
0:16:01 > 0:16:02Really well.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08This grass is nice and soft and it's a lovely bed.
0:16:08 > 0:16:10How are we doing?
0:16:10 > 0:16:13Woke up about three, I think, for a couple of hours
0:16:13 > 0:16:17and me and Barnes had a few little words to one another.
0:16:17 > 0:16:18A little pillow talk.
0:16:20 > 0:16:26Honestly, I've never felt so old in my entire life as I do on this trip.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30All of a sudden surrounded by, like, 22-year-old rafters,
0:16:30 > 0:16:35giggling away and talking in a language I don't even understand.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37What's worse is that I've actually started picking all of it up
0:16:37 > 0:16:39and all of a sudden I'm kind of going,
0:16:39 > 0:16:42"Oh, yeah, that last rapid was sick,
0:16:42 > 0:16:43"and I'm, like, totally stoked."
0:16:46 > 0:16:51There is nothing more undignified than a 43-year-old man talking in
0:16:51 > 0:16:5420-year-old surfer language.
0:16:59 > 0:17:00It's day two.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04Yesterday was a terrific start, but we did not get very far.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07Today we are hoping to make up for lost ground,
0:17:07 > 0:17:11kayak through the next gorge, and get within striking distance
0:17:11 > 0:17:14of the Baliem Grand Valley.
0:17:14 > 0:17:16I was just checking out my boat this morning,
0:17:16 > 0:17:20which is brand-new, it has never been paddled before.
0:17:20 > 0:17:25And look at all these gouges in the bottom of it.
0:17:27 > 0:17:32So these are all from those really sharp limestone rocks.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34This isn't going to make much difference to me.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37I mean, you would have to be really going some to tear through
0:17:37 > 0:17:41the bottom of one of these boats, but the problem is the raft -
0:17:41 > 0:17:43it is just going to tear it apart.
0:17:43 > 0:17:47And if we couldn't fix it then the expedition would effectively be over.
0:17:52 > 0:17:55With the worry of the jagged rocks fresh in our minds...
0:17:55 > 0:17:57Steve, in behind me, bro.
0:17:57 > 0:17:58..we head off.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02I can feel some good gouges in the bottom of my boat.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06I've got some big ones in mine too.
0:18:06 > 0:18:08It couldn't be much more calm though, beautiful.
0:18:08 > 0:18:11It's incredible, it's just silent.
0:18:11 > 0:18:14We paddle on, hoping to cover some good distance.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19But then the river starts to narrow again.
0:18:20 > 0:18:23Here we go. We're going back into it again.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28You can hear the white water already.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32As we are the first people to kayak this river, we just don't know
0:18:32 > 0:18:37what lies ahead. It could be easy, it could be impossible.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40What do you think? Should we get out to the left?
0:18:47 > 0:18:50After only 2km, we come across a major obstacle.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58Holy shit!
0:19:00 > 0:19:05- This is going to be difficult with the raft.- Yeah.
0:19:07 > 0:19:09Basically none of this is runnable.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14It is a big drop with churning white water...
0:19:16 > 0:19:21..logjams and yet more jagged limestone boulders.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24It could shred the raft and trap and drown any one of us.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31Our first instinct is to portage, or carry, the kit over the obstacle.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35Maybe the raft could handle one portage on this sort of stuff,
0:19:35 > 0:19:40but if this is going to indicate what is downstream, it's something we need to consider very seriously.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42We have two other options.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45One is to carry on without the raft, leaving the crew behind,
0:19:45 > 0:19:48meeting up with them further downstream.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51The other is to pull out.
0:19:51 > 0:19:54So we've got to think quite seriously about this.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57Very seriously. This could be something else if we get
0:19:57 > 0:19:58locked into a gorge, you know.
0:20:00 > 0:20:02Jordy is concerned that, if we commit to the gorge,
0:20:02 > 0:20:05we will be trapped or locked in.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07No joke. It is very dangerous.
0:20:10 > 0:20:13I for one definitely don't want to call for helicopter help.
0:20:15 > 0:20:21Obviously to be thinking about leaving the river this soon
0:20:21 > 0:20:23would be fairly crushing.
0:20:23 > 0:20:29You know, we wanted to be doing a lot of white water before we had to take that option.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32To add to our problems, two of the river crew,
0:20:32 > 0:20:35David Bain and Nate Klema, are both feeling ill.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47They are both suffering with severe headaches,
0:20:47 > 0:20:49high temperatures and racing pulses.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52Last night I got some pretty bad fever chills.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56Definitely not 100%.
0:20:56 > 0:21:00If it got much worse, I think I'd be struggling.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02I've started coughing a little bit more and I'm feeling
0:21:02 > 0:21:05a little bit hot, so I'm just concerned that, dropping
0:21:05 > 0:21:10into the gorge in this state, if it did get worse, it might lead us into a little bit of trouble.
0:21:10 > 0:21:15As lead kayaker, it is Jordy's decision whether or not to push on
0:21:15 > 0:21:18with a depleted and debilitated team.
0:21:18 > 0:21:24Kind of out of options, but just the exposure of Steve in there, you know.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27If Steve loses the boat, if Steve gets injured...
0:21:27 > 0:21:31When shit gets real, Steve may not be able to contribute as much
0:21:31 > 0:21:35as someone like Nate or Adrian or David.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39We can't really head downstream with just Steve, me and Barney.
0:21:46 > 0:21:49Jordy thinks it is too risky,
0:21:49 > 0:21:51so after only two days on the river,
0:21:51 > 0:21:53he's called in the helicopter.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04'I am absolutely furious.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07'It feels like he is giving up way too easily.'
0:22:07 > 0:22:11So I've just taken myself away just to have a little bit of a think.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14It's a real shame.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17I know that I'm kind of capable of taking on the stuff that is
0:22:17 > 0:22:19downstream of here.
0:22:20 > 0:22:21And that is...
0:22:23 > 0:22:25..really, really frustrating.
0:22:29 > 0:22:31I'm not loving life right now.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37Once they have recovered, the river crew will seek out
0:22:37 > 0:22:41the next place we can put back onto the river to continue our journey.
0:22:45 > 0:22:49But for me, this expedition isn't just about the first descent
0:22:49 > 0:22:53of the Baliem, it's also about exploring the extraordinary worlds
0:22:53 > 0:22:54the river has created.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00I am flying east over the highlands to a tributary of the Baliem
0:23:00 > 0:23:02called the Wollo.
0:23:02 > 0:23:05Because the rivers here are not just on the surface,
0:23:05 > 0:23:08they also run underground.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11I'm keen to get into that subterranean world to see how it
0:23:11 > 0:23:15has been shaped by the waters of the Baliem Valley.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19The mountains that form the central spine of New Guinea are composed of
0:23:19 > 0:23:25limestone, which originally was created on the bed of a shallow sea.
0:23:25 > 0:23:29But as the Pacific and Australian plates have come together,
0:23:29 > 0:23:34they have squeezed the land up into these huge, towering mountains.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37As the rock was pushed up over the past five million years,
0:23:37 > 0:23:40so rivers carved out this stunning landscape.
0:23:40 > 0:23:44But the water also started to seep through the rock and create
0:23:44 > 0:23:46a whole new underground world,
0:23:46 > 0:23:48almost all of which is totally unexplored.
0:23:51 > 0:23:54And this is exactly what we're looking for.
0:23:56 > 0:24:00It is a gigantic sinkhole or doline,
0:24:00 > 0:24:02so originally that would have been a massive cave
0:24:02 > 0:24:07and the roof's collapsed, leaving this enormous open hole.
0:24:10 > 0:24:12Look at this cliff - that is insane!
0:24:16 > 0:24:20It must be 250 metres high, completely vertical drop.
0:24:24 > 0:24:28The caves we are hoping to explore are owned by several local villages.
0:24:32 > 0:24:33THEY SPEAK LOCAL LANGUAGE
0:24:35 > 0:24:39Our plan is to abseil down this precipice and to explore the caves
0:24:39 > 0:24:41that we hope lead off it.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44Because of the contours of the rock...
0:24:44 > 0:24:47For that, I need a caving team.
0:24:47 > 0:24:51..we're going to have to have a few belays in different positions.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54Cave leader Steve Jones and his team of experts...
0:24:54 > 0:24:56Do you want 10mm?
0:24:56 > 0:24:59..are rigging hundreds of metres of rope for us to descend
0:24:59 > 0:25:00into the cavern.
0:25:02 > 0:25:08According to the locals, no-one has ever been down this way before.
0:25:08 > 0:25:12We are abseiling into a 200 metre sinkhole
0:25:12 > 0:25:17from the jungle, rigged off trees in the middle of Papua.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20I don't think it gets any more epic than this.
0:25:23 > 0:25:25While the caving team carry on,
0:25:25 > 0:25:29I've found something that is just as exciting for me as a naturalist.
0:25:31 > 0:25:34Somewhere in this small stand of trees in front of me
0:25:34 > 0:25:37is a very special bird indeed.
0:25:37 > 0:25:41It is a bird with a very big voice and every once in a while,
0:25:41 > 0:25:46it is kind of letting rip, the male, with a sound that kind of goes...
0:25:46 > 0:25:48HE IMITATES WHOOSHING
0:25:48 > 0:25:51BIRD CALLS
0:25:51 > 0:25:54That is the call. That is the call there.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57There is one nearby. Let's go. Let's go this way.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03It is the sound of the superb bird of paradise, and these
0:26:03 > 0:26:07central highlands are the only place on Earth that you'll find them.
0:26:07 > 0:26:12It is as unique to this part of the world as the Baliem is.
0:26:12 > 0:26:14He is there, in the tree just ahead of us.
0:26:25 > 0:26:27Absolutely magnificent.
0:26:29 > 0:26:33It's the most incredible, glossy black colour,
0:26:33 > 0:26:38except for that just ridiculous patch of blue over the breast.
0:26:43 > 0:26:47He really is screaming to all the females around here to say,
0:26:47 > 0:26:50"I am the biggest, most beautiful boy on the block."
0:26:52 > 0:26:54He's gorgeous.
0:26:58 > 0:27:01When I was a kid I had an encyclopaedia of birds of the world,
0:27:01 > 0:27:04and the pages dedicated to the birds of paradise were pretty much
0:27:04 > 0:27:07worn through from reading.
0:27:07 > 0:27:09I was obsessed with them.
0:27:09 > 0:27:12And, you know, they just seemed to be so impossibly glamorous,
0:27:12 > 0:27:14from a place that was so exotic,
0:27:14 > 0:27:18that I just never thought I would ever get a chance to go there,
0:27:18 > 0:27:21to stand here and see one for real.
0:27:23 > 0:27:27Our plan is to camp the night at the bottom of the sinkhole,
0:27:27 > 0:27:30but then we get word that there is more trouble.
0:27:30 > 0:27:34We have very real problems up top.
0:27:34 > 0:27:40A person turned up and pretty much just said, "Get out of here."
0:27:40 > 0:27:43'Jordy has been hauling kit from the nearby road,
0:27:43 > 0:27:47'but this time instead of rope, he has brought bad news.'
0:27:47 > 0:27:50We don't have the permissions.
0:27:50 > 0:27:54Basically they are like, "You cannot stay here."
0:27:54 > 0:27:56It turns out that not all the villages who claim ownership of
0:27:56 > 0:27:59the caves are happy with our plans.
0:28:00 > 0:28:03One of the real challenges of this part of the world and one of the
0:28:03 > 0:28:09reasons why it's still so unexplored is that the people, you know,
0:28:09 > 0:28:13they are distrustful of outsiders,
0:28:13 > 0:28:18they have, you know, the deep pride in their land and the belief
0:28:18 > 0:28:20that many parts of it are sacred,
0:28:20 > 0:28:24and they have little or no value
0:28:24 > 0:28:29of money so, you know, you can't necessarily bargain for things.
0:28:29 > 0:28:32- Which is very frustrating. - Let's get back up there now.
0:28:32 > 0:28:36Our only option is to put the caving on hold
0:28:36 > 0:28:39while we negotiate with the other village chiefs.
0:28:39 > 0:28:42THEY SPEAK LOCAL LANGUAGE
0:28:47 > 0:28:50The cave sits on the border of several villages
0:28:50 > 0:28:53and while some of them are delighted to welcome us,
0:28:53 > 0:28:54others are not.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03I've been coming to this part of the world for 20 years,
0:29:03 > 0:29:06so at least I can try and persuade them in their own language.
0:29:16 > 0:29:18But it is not looking good.
0:29:25 > 0:29:27What was "promise" again?
0:30:11 > 0:30:13So...
0:30:14 > 0:30:16..we're done, we're finished.
0:30:17 > 0:30:22I just don't ever want to come to a place and leave bad feeling behind.
0:30:22 > 0:30:28You know, I would be lying as well if I didn't say that I am devastated
0:30:28 > 0:30:31not to be dropping down into that cave.
0:30:31 > 0:30:35I stood on the lip and looked down into that cavern
0:30:35 > 0:30:36and I could taste it.
0:30:44 > 0:30:48After several days of searching, we finally find another cave.
0:30:48 > 0:30:53This time the permissions are all in place.
0:30:53 > 0:30:56- We have a hole. - And big spider webs.
0:30:56 > 0:30:59Just as well you're going first then, Steve.
0:31:01 > 0:31:04We are hoping to push beyond the known portions of the cave
0:31:04 > 0:31:06to find new passages and uncharted caverns.
0:31:11 > 0:31:13It is good to be underground.
0:31:13 > 0:31:18I am keen to find out how these caves are being formed,
0:31:18 > 0:31:21to understand just how vast and extensive they are.
0:31:29 > 0:31:32The constant temperature and protection from the elements
0:31:32 > 0:31:34mean that the early sections of these caves
0:31:34 > 0:31:37are a perfect hideaway for wildlife.
0:31:39 > 0:31:43These shapes are swifts or swiftlets.
0:31:43 > 0:31:47They hunt outside during the daylight and then come in here
0:31:47 > 0:31:49to roost here at night.
0:31:49 > 0:31:53But the most incredible thing is the sound they are making...
0:31:53 > 0:31:54RAPID CLICKING
0:31:54 > 0:31:57Like that, that little burst of clicks there.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00So the swifts can't see in total darkness. Instead, what they are
0:32:00 > 0:32:05doing is a kind of echolocating. They are making these sounds...
0:32:05 > 0:32:07And it bounces back off the cave walls,
0:32:07 > 0:32:10and they hear it and they can perceive in three dimensions.
0:32:10 > 0:32:13They are flying blind but they can still find their way
0:32:13 > 0:32:17into these caves where they are safe to roost,
0:32:17 > 0:32:19as they are doing up above me.
0:32:19 > 0:32:20Amazing.
0:32:23 > 0:32:26Papua is one of the wettest parts of the world,
0:32:26 > 0:32:30with an average 12 metres of rainfall a year up in the highlands,
0:32:30 > 0:32:32compared to just one metre in the UK.
0:32:34 > 0:32:38Over the past five billion years, as these mountains have been lifted up
0:32:38 > 0:32:41out of the sea, so the endless rain has percolated
0:32:41 > 0:32:44into the limestone bedrock.
0:32:44 > 0:32:47That helps explain how these caves are forming.
0:32:47 > 0:32:52Rainwater, which is very slightly acidic, seeps through thin cracks.
0:32:52 > 0:32:54It slowly dissolves the rock,
0:32:54 > 0:32:57eventually creating passages in caves like this one.
0:33:03 > 0:33:07Wet mud underfoot suggests another process is also at work.
0:33:07 > 0:33:11It shows that water often flows through these passages,
0:33:11 > 0:33:13eroding them like a river erodes its channel.
0:33:19 > 0:33:24Careful of this edge, cos that's a big drop-off,
0:33:24 > 0:33:26and it seems to carry on going.
0:33:26 > 0:33:29I'm going to scramble down and see what I can see.
0:33:35 > 0:33:37We're over 3km into the cave system.
0:33:37 > 0:33:41It has taken four hours to get this far.
0:33:41 > 0:33:45- What was that?- It's all right.
0:33:45 > 0:33:48- Are we all good?- Yes.
0:33:48 > 0:33:50You have to be careful not to touch anything.
0:33:52 > 0:33:54But it has been worth it.
0:33:54 > 0:33:56Now that is impressive.
0:33:59 > 0:34:02That is incredible.
0:34:02 > 0:34:08In front of us is a vast cavern measuring over 100,000 cubic metres,
0:34:08 > 0:34:12rather bigger than the Albert Hall.
0:34:12 > 0:34:15There must be very, very little air movement
0:34:15 > 0:34:17in this cave to allow all of this to form.
0:34:20 > 0:34:22And it is big as well.
0:34:22 > 0:34:23HE WHOOPS
0:34:25 > 0:34:26Echo goes on forever.
0:34:27 > 0:34:30That is a spectacular chamber.
0:34:33 > 0:34:37You can see where the bedding planes in the cracks are,
0:34:37 > 0:34:42the water's seeped through and that's where
0:34:42 > 0:34:46all of those straws and stalactites form in lines.
0:34:46 > 0:34:52Over the millennia, as mineral-laden water seeps through the limestone,
0:34:52 > 0:34:54the steady drips create stalagmites...
0:34:56 > 0:34:58..stalactites...
0:34:59 > 0:35:02..and curtains cascading down the walls.
0:35:06 > 0:35:11It's incredible that there are hidden places,
0:35:11 > 0:35:15darkness that, you know, has never been illuminated before.
0:35:18 > 0:35:20And that it can be so intensely beautiful.
0:35:24 > 0:35:26Some of these formations are thousands,
0:35:26 > 0:35:28if not millions of years old.
0:35:30 > 0:35:33This truly is a lost world.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42The thing that totally blows my mind
0:35:42 > 0:35:46is that all those miles and miles of mountains that we've
0:35:46 > 0:35:50flown over have all got this kind of thing below them, haven't they?
0:35:50 > 0:35:57And there are so many infinite miles of caverns like this that have
0:35:57 > 0:36:00definitely never been seen and possibly never will be seen.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03Possibly never.
0:36:03 > 0:36:10But I would put a big bet on Papua having more unexplored cave
0:36:10 > 0:36:12than anywhere else in the world.
0:36:12 > 0:36:16Water has created a whole new landscape inside these mountains.
0:36:19 > 0:36:21And with the challenges we faced,
0:36:21 > 0:36:25it is likely these subterranean wonders will remain hidden
0:36:25 > 0:36:26for generations.
0:36:40 > 0:36:43The river team are recovered and we're relaunching our Baliem descent
0:36:43 > 0:36:46at the first available place downstream.
0:36:49 > 0:36:52We're re-joining the river 10km as the crow flies
0:36:52 > 0:36:56from where we left it, to start off the next phase of our journey
0:36:56 > 0:36:59heading down to the Baliem Grand Valley.
0:36:59 > 0:37:03Our plan is to kayak over 80km downstream,
0:37:03 > 0:37:05through what we expect to be extreme white water,
0:37:05 > 0:37:09until we reach the end of the Grand Valley.
0:37:09 > 0:37:12Hold it there, Steve.
0:37:12 > 0:37:15This is a land of small settlements and cultivation.
0:37:17 > 0:37:20The main tribe are known as the Dani.
0:37:20 > 0:37:23I'm hoping to find out more about them,
0:37:23 > 0:37:26their relationship with the river,
0:37:26 > 0:37:29and to see what impact the modern world is having
0:37:29 > 0:37:30on their ancient way of life.
0:37:33 > 0:37:37At the base of this gigantic cliff face we have here,
0:37:37 > 0:37:40there are two tributaries coming together in a fork,
0:37:40 > 0:37:44so that means there is a lot more water here and we're going to have
0:37:44 > 0:37:48much less problems with sharp rocks tearing the bottoms
0:37:48 > 0:37:49out of our boats.
0:37:50 > 0:37:55So hopefully the paddling is about to begin, finally.
0:37:57 > 0:38:01The river's increased flow means we're less likely to tear the raft,
0:38:01 > 0:38:03but makes it faster and more dangerous.
0:38:07 > 0:38:10Final checks done, we are off.
0:38:14 > 0:38:16It looks epic from here, doesn't it?
0:38:16 > 0:38:18It feels so good just to be on the water.
0:38:27 > 0:38:30Although many of the Dani now wear modern clothes...
0:38:30 > 0:38:32HE CALLS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
0:38:32 > 0:38:36..some of the older generation still use the traditional penis gourd,
0:38:36 > 0:38:40with maybe a woollen beanie as the only concession to the 21st century.
0:38:41 > 0:38:46People have been farming here in the Baliem Valley for a very long time.
0:38:46 > 0:38:50Some suggest 32,000 years,
0:38:50 > 0:38:53which would make it the longest consistent communities found
0:38:53 > 0:38:56anywhere on Earth.
0:38:56 > 0:39:00Much of this success is down to the rich alluvial soil.
0:39:00 > 0:39:04Early visitors thought this valley was a Shangri-La,
0:39:04 > 0:39:05a fertile place of plenty.
0:39:12 > 0:39:17Evidence shows the Dani and many of the other 311 Papuan tribes
0:39:17 > 0:39:20share genetic links to the aboriginals of Australia.
0:39:33 > 0:39:35Come, come.
0:39:46 > 0:39:50Until now, the river has been quite manageable
0:39:50 > 0:39:52but we know it is bound to speed up.
0:39:52 > 0:39:56Steve, it's starting to get a bit steeper now
0:39:56 > 0:39:58and we want to catch that eddy where Barney is.
0:39:58 > 0:40:02- See where Barney is downstream? - Yes.- Sweet.
0:40:02 > 0:40:06Suddenly the river drops into a kilometre-long rapid.
0:40:07 > 0:40:10It is bigger than anything I have tackled before.
0:40:10 > 0:40:12Aldo is scouting ahead.
0:40:12 > 0:40:15His massive problem here is that if he is not powerful enough coming
0:40:15 > 0:40:18through here, he is going to get sucked into that hole.
0:40:18 > 0:40:21If he ends up in that hole he's pretty much on his own.
0:40:23 > 0:40:24Scary stuff.
0:40:26 > 0:40:30This may sound funny, but you can paddle this rapid, OK?
0:40:30 > 0:40:31- You can paddle it.- Yep.
0:40:35 > 0:40:36I need to prove to the team...
0:40:37 > 0:40:39..and to myself, that I am up to it.
0:40:57 > 0:40:59I only just miss hitting the rocks...
0:41:00 > 0:41:01..but it is not over yet.
0:41:24 > 0:41:26I'm getting sucked into the hole Aldo was worried about.
0:41:34 > 0:41:38If I can't paddle my way out, I am in trouble.
0:41:38 > 0:41:40Paddle! Paddle!
0:41:41 > 0:41:43Paddle!
0:41:44 > 0:41:46Yes! Yes!
0:41:50 > 0:41:52- Yes!- Yes! Yes!
0:41:52 > 0:41:54Good boy.
0:41:54 > 0:41:58That was amazing. That was amazing.
0:41:58 > 0:42:00Tenacity is the key, bro.
0:42:00 > 0:42:02- Tenacity.- Oh, my God.
0:42:02 > 0:42:06I've just got the biggest adrenaline hit ever.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09It's going to be hard work making you swim on this trip, mate.
0:42:10 > 0:42:11Wow.
0:42:16 > 0:42:18Feeling like I can conquer anything, we paddle on.
0:42:20 > 0:42:21Look at this.
0:42:22 > 0:42:24Sensational!
0:42:30 > 0:42:31Beautiful.
0:42:35 > 0:42:37We meet more and more Dani along the river's edge,
0:42:37 > 0:42:40many as keen to find out about us as we are about them.
0:42:43 > 0:42:46It was only in 1938 that outsiders first visited the valley.
0:42:53 > 0:42:56So they're saying that this man here is the kepala desa,
0:42:56 > 0:42:58which is the head of the village,
0:42:58 > 0:43:03and all my other new friends here are from a village
0:43:03 > 0:43:04that is just up here.
0:43:04 > 0:43:06HE SPEAKS THEIR LANGUAGE
0:43:08 > 0:43:11It is close. Their village is very, very close to the river.
0:43:23 > 0:43:26That is a sobering thing to hear.
0:43:27 > 0:43:30The head of the village has just said that they had, just yesterday,
0:43:30 > 0:43:34a woman fell into the river here and they have not found her body.
0:43:34 > 0:43:38The river has a phenomenal amount of power and while it, you know,
0:43:38 > 0:43:42brings life to these people, it gives them water for their agriculture,
0:43:42 > 0:43:46to drink, to wash in, it can also take life away as well.
0:43:46 > 0:43:50So we promised to look for the body downstream but, you know,
0:43:50 > 0:43:52I doubt we will find it.
0:43:56 > 0:44:00As we head on, the story of the lost woman still echoing in our minds...
0:44:02 > 0:44:04..the river starts to build again
0:44:04 > 0:44:06as we hit yet another rapid.
0:44:12 > 0:44:15I'm sticking close to Jordy, with Barney providing safety cover
0:44:15 > 0:44:17further downstream as usual.
0:44:29 > 0:44:32But then, out of nowhere, my boat gets sucked into yet another hole.
0:44:34 > 0:44:36The water is being churned into a swirling back-current
0:44:36 > 0:44:37and it spins me around.
0:44:41 > 0:44:44It is sucking me in, rolling me over and over.
0:44:54 > 0:44:56And then...
0:45:02 > 0:45:04YELLING
0:45:04 > 0:45:07I'm out of my boat, on my own,
0:45:07 > 0:45:10being swept downstream by the river in full flood.
0:45:14 > 0:45:16Swim, bro, swim!
0:45:17 > 0:45:18Barney throws me a safety line.
0:45:23 > 0:45:24Which I just manage to grab.
0:45:34 > 0:45:35And I haul myself back into the bank.
0:45:37 > 0:45:39Steve, are you all right?
0:45:39 > 0:45:42- I'm good.- Wait there, Steve.
0:45:42 > 0:45:44I will come to you. Wait there.
0:45:46 > 0:45:49Luckily, Jordy saved my boat.
0:45:49 > 0:45:51Could someone grab that?
0:45:51 > 0:45:53And Barney saved me.
0:45:53 > 0:45:55Thank you, mate.
0:45:56 > 0:45:59It had to happen,
0:45:59 > 0:46:00sooner or later.
0:46:03 > 0:46:06I got sucked into a hole...
0:46:09 > 0:46:12..and flipped, I don't know, maybe five or six times.
0:46:14 > 0:46:19It was scary. I mean, I knew the second I went into that hole,
0:46:19 > 0:46:21I knew that I was history, really.
0:46:21 > 0:46:26I kind of hit it wrong and it sucked me back in and, yeah,
0:46:26 > 0:46:29it was time to pull the ripcord.
0:46:31 > 0:46:32We paddle on.
0:46:34 > 0:46:35Playing it safe...
0:46:38 > 0:46:39..taking it steady...
0:46:41 > 0:46:45..as the river slows down and the valley broadens out.
0:46:58 > 0:47:04We're coming towards the end of a long day, at least 40km,
0:47:04 > 0:47:09possibly even 50, and we're losing light and it's starting to rain,
0:47:09 > 0:47:11so it's time for us to try and find camp.
0:47:15 > 0:47:17There is a small settlement here, just a few huts
0:47:17 > 0:47:19up beyond the river bank.
0:47:20 > 0:47:23And the youngsters certainly seem friendly.
0:47:48 > 0:47:51We have lucked out. These Dani villagers seem more than happy
0:47:51 > 0:47:53to let us stay the night.
0:47:59 > 0:48:03It is also a wonderful opportunity to find out more
0:48:03 > 0:48:05about these remarkable people.
0:48:11 > 0:48:13This is great.
0:48:15 > 0:48:19So we have... There is one more modern building to the side here,
0:48:19 > 0:48:20which has an aluminium roof,
0:48:20 > 0:48:25but the rest of them are all old-fashioned, beehive-style huts.
0:48:25 > 0:48:29They are called honai, and are the traditional Dani homes
0:48:29 > 0:48:31with thatched roofs and wooden walls.
0:48:33 > 0:48:36THEY SPEAK LOCAL LANGUAGE
0:48:50 > 0:48:53All the generations live in this compound together,
0:48:53 > 0:48:57including the 70-year-old village elder.
0:49:18 > 0:49:2240-year-old chief Eli Mabel and his brother Martin
0:49:22 > 0:49:26are the 11th generation to live in this small settlement of Pumo.
0:50:48 > 0:50:51Outside, the extended family are cooking dinner.
0:50:51 > 0:50:55It is traditional for group meals or special occasions to be cooked
0:50:55 > 0:50:59in a big fire pit with hot stones to slow-bake the food.
0:50:59 > 0:51:01Eli's mother is in charge.
0:51:12 > 0:51:14OK, OK.
0:51:17 > 0:51:20But it is a different tradition that has grabbed my attention.
0:51:20 > 0:51:24This is something that is practised by the Dani women.
0:51:24 > 0:51:26When they lose someone, when they are in mourning,
0:51:26 > 0:51:29they will cut off their own fingers as a sign of grief.
0:51:41 > 0:51:43Sometimes the only kind of anaesthetic they will have
0:51:43 > 0:51:47before these digits are removed is that someone will punch them
0:51:47 > 0:51:50really hard in the arm, and give them a dead arm and then, bam,
0:51:50 > 0:51:53off it comes with an axe, believe it or not.
0:51:58 > 0:52:01It sits quite uncomfortably, I guess,
0:52:01 > 0:52:04with our whole Western idea of equality between the sexes,
0:52:04 > 0:52:08but you see so much of that here in Papuan culture,
0:52:08 > 0:52:10the women really do all the work,
0:52:10 > 0:52:14all the hard work and a lot of time the guys just kind of sit around
0:52:14 > 0:52:15smoking and laughing.
0:52:17 > 0:52:21The Dani men also spend a lot of time chewing a mild narcotic
0:52:21 > 0:52:22called betel nut.
0:52:24 > 0:52:26All of it? He's saying, take all of it.
0:52:26 > 0:52:28The whole nut?
0:52:28 > 0:52:31- Yeah, the inside. - It is the fruit of the areca palm
0:52:31 > 0:52:36that is found in much of the tropics and Aldo is keen to give it a go.
0:52:36 > 0:52:37Do you swallow?
0:52:37 > 0:52:41No, no, no, never swallow.
0:52:41 > 0:52:43Make that a rule for life.
0:52:45 > 0:52:47It tastes really, really bitter.
0:52:47 > 0:52:50And you say not to swallow, but my mouth is full and dribbling.
0:52:52 > 0:52:56The betel makes Aldo dribble, turns his spit blood-red in colour,
0:52:56 > 0:52:58and makes him sweat.
0:52:58 > 0:53:02Yeah, come on, Barney. It can also make you feel a little tipsy.
0:53:04 > 0:53:05I'm very hot.
0:53:07 > 0:53:12It's remarkable. It's almost instantaneous, you're sweating.
0:53:12 > 0:53:15And you've now got bright red lipstick on as well.
0:53:19 > 0:53:22And your massive sweaty face!
0:53:30 > 0:53:33The Dani have a communal spirit we are sadly losing.
0:53:37 > 0:53:41It is all about sharing and spending as much time together as possible.
0:53:43 > 0:53:46And there is no sense of privacy.
0:53:46 > 0:53:50In fact, the word in this language
0:53:50 > 0:53:54for being solo is the same as the word for being lonely.
0:53:56 > 0:53:57People should want to be together,
0:53:57 > 0:54:02that is very much a part of the culture here.
0:54:03 > 0:54:06There is a great respect for the elders,
0:54:06 > 0:54:08and that extends beyond the grave.
0:54:08 > 0:54:11Come and have a little look.
0:54:11 > 0:54:17In the men's honai, village chief Eli shows me a family heirloom.
0:54:20 > 0:54:22Oh, that is extraordinary.
0:54:22 > 0:54:26It was commonplace for the Dani to keep a respected ancestor
0:54:26 > 0:54:30as a mummy, but as a practice, it is now in decline.
0:54:30 > 0:54:33The mummy's kept in the men's hut and it is considered an honour
0:54:33 > 0:54:35to sleep in the same space as him.
0:55:04 > 0:55:09He was killed in a battle with a nearby village and having him
0:55:09 > 0:55:14made into a mummy is a kind of way of honouring him.
0:55:15 > 0:55:20After he died, his body was cleaned and prepared and he was then smoked
0:55:20 > 0:55:23over the fire in the men's hut for six months.
0:55:45 > 0:55:48He provides a powerful physical connection to their past.
0:56:01 > 0:56:03It is now two o'clock in the morning
0:56:03 > 0:56:06and the guys have finally stopped talking.
0:56:08 > 0:56:11It's kind of weird looking around and seeing behind me...
0:56:13 > 0:56:17..the one guy who kind of seems to be sat up in a weird position.
0:56:19 > 0:56:23I know it is a great honour and a privilege to sleep here
0:56:23 > 0:56:27in the men's house alongside this ancient mummy,
0:56:27 > 0:56:30and they have told me that this will bring me prosperity,
0:56:30 > 0:56:33and a blessing for the rest of my life and I will be able to have
0:56:33 > 0:56:34lots and lots of wives.
0:56:36 > 0:56:38I'm not sure what Helen will think of that.
0:57:05 > 0:57:08It gives me great joy to find communities like this
0:57:08 > 0:57:11where the Dani's vibrant culture is still treasured.
0:57:16 > 0:57:19This is one of the world's most ancient cultures.
0:57:19 > 0:57:23It is a rare case of tradition surviving in a fast-changing world.
0:57:23 > 0:57:28Young and old still value their heritage, what it means to be Dani.
0:57:28 > 0:57:32We were welcomed here like long lost friends and returned to the river
0:57:32 > 0:57:34full of optimism and hope for the rest of our journey.
0:57:42 > 0:57:43Next time...
0:57:43 > 0:57:47This is the first settlement we've actually seen marked on a map
0:57:47 > 0:57:49for about 10 days.
0:57:49 > 0:57:53When it is in full flood, it has the power to move along boulders
0:57:53 > 0:57:54that are the size of cars.
0:57:57 > 0:57:59Paddle, paddle, paddle!