0:00:02 > 0:00:04In the vastness of the Pacific,
0:00:04 > 0:00:08a once-in-a-lifetime expedition is underway.
0:00:08 > 0:00:10We're on a voyage of discovery,
0:00:10 > 0:00:15covering over 1,000 kilometres through the Galapagos Islands.
0:00:15 > 0:00:20Galapagos, one of the greatest treasures of the natural world.
0:00:20 > 0:00:24This place is just incredible.
0:00:24 > 0:00:28Over 1,000 species here can be found nowhere else on Earth,
0:00:28 > 0:00:31and they've evolved in extraordinary ways.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38We're on the final leg of one of the most ambitious scientific
0:00:38 > 0:00:41expeditions ever attempted in Galapagos.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47We want to find out what the future holds for the wildlife here,
0:00:47 > 0:00:51now that our human footprint is being felt like never before.
0:00:52 > 0:00:57I'm Liz Bonnin. I'm a wild animal biologist, helping to carry out
0:00:57 > 0:01:00ground-breaking research in the field.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05I'm joined by a team of world-renowned scientists.
0:01:07 > 0:01:12Using cutting-edge technology, we'll illuminate invisible worlds
0:01:12 > 0:01:15beneath the earth,
0:01:15 > 0:01:17above the forests...
0:01:19 > 0:01:21and below the waves...
0:01:21 > 0:01:24They're so beautiful, they really are.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28..to reveal how the wildlife here is battling to survive.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32We don't want to lose it. If we lose it, it's for good.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35'We'll study the animals most at risk,
0:01:35 > 0:01:38'to understand how we can protect them.'
0:01:38 > 0:01:41That's a good, healthy individual.
0:01:41 > 0:01:48'And we'll witness the wonders of a new Galapagos island being born.'
0:01:48 > 0:01:52It's so beautiful down there! It's so beautiful!
0:01:52 > 0:01:54This is Mission: Galapagos.
0:02:11 > 0:02:17Last time, we followed a mysterious ocean giant, the sunfish,
0:02:17 > 0:02:20to discover what it got up to in the deep.
0:02:20 > 0:02:24- Whoa!- It's getting cleaned! It's getting cleaned!
0:02:24 > 0:02:26It's getting cleaned.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30And we observed how huge numbers of hammerheads
0:02:30 > 0:02:32gather here to find a mate.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40Oh, my God, look at this!
0:02:40 > 0:02:45Our explorations of the ocean here have made such an impression on me.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49The sheer diversity and magnificence of life forms
0:02:49 > 0:02:52on a scale I never imagined.
0:02:53 > 0:02:56The research going on here is vital.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00Not only is it revealing new information about our oceans
0:03:00 > 0:03:04but it's also raising important questions about the future.
0:03:07 > 0:03:1197% of Galapagos is uninhabited,
0:03:11 > 0:03:14making it one of the most incredible nature reserves on Earth.
0:03:16 > 0:03:21But now its wildlife shares a few islands with 30,000 people.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26And it's a number growing
0:03:26 > 0:03:28by thousands of new arrivals every year.
0:03:32 > 0:03:34So this is where we are.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38The nearest mainland, South America, is 1,000km that way,
0:03:38 > 0:03:41and that's the reason why the Galapagos have remained one of the
0:03:41 > 0:03:46most pristine places on the planet - their sheer isolation.
0:03:46 > 0:03:48But now we're heading to these islands,
0:03:48 > 0:03:51to the centre and east of the archipelago,
0:03:51 > 0:03:53where the impact of man is more evident.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01We want to find out how the marine life in Galapagos is faring now that
0:04:01 > 0:04:03our human footprint is growing.
0:04:11 > 0:04:14Our first destination is San Cristobal.
0:04:19 > 0:04:216,000 people live here.
0:04:22 > 0:04:27There's a thriving fishing industry and it's a popular tourist stop-off.
0:04:30 > 0:04:345km along the coast from the capital city of Galapagos is a
0:04:34 > 0:04:38beach that's vital to green sea turtles.
0:04:43 > 0:04:47The turtles rely on this long expanse of soft sand
0:04:47 > 0:04:50and plentiful supply of food - algae.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57Our team, led by marine biologist Juan Pablo Munoz,
0:04:57 > 0:04:59have set up on the beach.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03This is pretty much an oasis for sea turtles here.
0:05:03 > 0:05:09The Galapagos is kind of one of the few places in the world
0:05:09 > 0:05:11that is still safe for them.
0:05:12 > 0:05:16Turtles are extremely vulnerable to changes in the ocean,
0:05:16 > 0:05:20and Juan Pablo's worried the waters here may be becoming polluted.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25Recent evidence suggests he has cause for concern.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30The other day we found a dead sea turtle.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32We opened the stomach of the sea turtle.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35We thought that we were going to find maybe a little bit of plastic,
0:05:35 > 0:05:38and it was like all the stomach was full of plastic.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41Those kind of things that are floating, they look like
0:05:41 > 0:05:44algae floating as well, so they tend to eat that.
0:05:47 > 0:05:51I'm helping to examine the turtles to find out how healthy they are and
0:05:51 > 0:05:53look for any evidence of plastic.
0:05:56 > 0:05:58But to do that, you have to catch them.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03Which is easier said than done.
0:06:08 > 0:06:11Sea turtles can hold their breath for up to four hours.
0:06:14 > 0:06:19And those powerful flippers allow them to reach speeds of over 30kph.
0:06:34 > 0:06:36I think they're giving them the runaround.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46Three turtles have just popped up, right in front of the divers.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS
0:06:52 > 0:06:54The team need to work together,
0:06:54 > 0:06:57closing in cautiously on the turtles.
0:07:09 > 0:07:13They wait for just the right moment and dive.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29As soon as they've captured a turtle, they swim it to the surface
0:07:29 > 0:07:31for a breath of air.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36They've got it, they've got one. They've got a turtle.
0:07:36 > 0:07:41So we time from the moment it's captured out in the water.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43When they get back there, we do all the health checks,
0:07:43 > 0:07:45it's back in the water in 20 minutes.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48Fingers crossed. Well done, chaps.
0:07:49 > 0:07:51It's magnificent.
0:07:53 > 0:07:55So now everyone has a job to do.
0:07:55 > 0:07:57They've got to work really, really fast,
0:07:57 > 0:08:00get that green turtle back in the water as soon as possible,
0:08:00 > 0:08:04but every bit of information that we can gain will ultimately help to
0:08:04 > 0:08:07protect this population.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11'The wellbeing of each turtle is our priority.
0:08:11 > 0:08:14'Wildlife vet, Professor Greg Lewbart, is on hand.'
0:08:18 > 0:08:21One way to see if the turtle is eating well
0:08:21 > 0:08:23is to look inside its mouth.
0:08:23 > 0:08:24A-ha!
0:08:24 > 0:08:26Somebody's been eating.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- So...- Do you want me to shine this for you and you can open it up?
0:08:31 > 0:08:33Yeah, that'd be great.
0:08:33 > 0:08:37- OK, ready?- Look in the mouth. Yeah. Ready?- Yeah.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40Just shine back into the back of the mouth.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42There. Can you look into the...? Someone just had lunch.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- Do you see the algae in there? - Well, yes. Had a good meal.
0:08:45 > 0:08:49So I think we can look by this animal's condition and know it's
0:08:49 > 0:08:51eating, but we can actually see some
0:08:51 > 0:08:53remnants of the salad lunch she had.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- That all looks really good. - Can I cover her eyes now?
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Yeah, yeah, you can.- This works wonders for just calming the turtle.
0:09:01 > 0:09:04The sooner you can put this on, it's nice and cool and wet,
0:09:04 > 0:09:06the better for it.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10'Very little is known about the lives of sea turtles,
0:09:10 > 0:09:12'so this is the perfect opportunity
0:09:12 > 0:09:15'to gather as much information as possible.'
0:09:15 > 0:09:1773.
0:09:17 > 0:09:19'We also take a blood sample.'
0:09:19 > 0:09:21And that can give them all sorts of information,
0:09:21 > 0:09:22from when a turtle is caught,
0:09:22 > 0:09:24it'll have a certain amount of stress hormone.
0:09:24 > 0:09:26All animals have that, it's a survival mechanism,
0:09:26 > 0:09:29but if an individual is in a more polluted area,
0:09:29 > 0:09:33its immunity's compromised, its stress levels will be higher.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36So even that, comparing a healthy individual's stress levels,
0:09:36 > 0:09:39to that of a non-healthy individual, can be really valuable.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46'The last task is to measure its heart rate.'
0:09:46 > 0:09:48Try about right here.
0:09:51 > 0:09:53Perfect.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- 36.- 36, that's about what we expected.
0:09:55 > 0:09:57- Heart rate's 36.- Yeah, perfect.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00That's a good, healthy individual. Its heart rate isn't too high.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02That's good news.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06Are we ready to let her go? Let's let her go. Go!
0:10:06 > 0:10:08Go, go, go! Off you go, beauty.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13Nearly there. There you go.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18Fabulous. Back in the ocean.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20All done in 18 minutes, which is really good.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23Minimal handling time, minimum stress.
0:10:23 > 0:10:25No rest for the wicked.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28The more they can get today, the better for their data.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33As the team continues to health check more turtles here,
0:10:33 > 0:10:36there are no obvious signs that they've ingested plastic.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44The turtles we encounter all appear to be in good health.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49This is just the start of a long-term study
0:10:49 > 0:10:53to see how the turtles here are coping.
0:10:53 > 0:10:56The data we've gathered will act as a useful baseline when Juan Pablo
0:10:56 > 0:10:59returns to carry out more health checks in future.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07He's also leading an initiative
0:11:07 > 0:11:11to clean up the beaches most at risk from pollution.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15All sea turtles are almost disappearing, all around the world.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19They have been here in this planet since dinosaur times,
0:11:19 > 0:11:21so 200 million years ago,
0:11:21 > 0:11:26and only in the last 200 years they're being endangered.
0:11:30 > 0:11:33Juan Pablo is determined that Galapagos remains a haven
0:11:33 > 0:11:35for green sea turtles.
0:11:39 > 0:11:42- Woo! Good job!- Esta bien!
0:11:45 > 0:11:48Given a chance, in clean waters,
0:11:48 > 0:11:51these magnificent creatures can live to 100.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00A few more kilometres along the coast
0:12:00 > 0:12:04is an important habitat for sharks in Galapagos - mangroves.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10I'm joining a team of scientists who are investigating how to protect the
0:12:10 > 0:12:12sharks from fishermen's nets.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22Sharks are apex predators.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29Sitting at the top of the food chain,
0:12:29 > 0:12:33their health is a vital indicator for the entire marine ecosystem.
0:12:36 > 0:12:40But they're one of the most vulnerable animals in the ocean.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44100 million sharks are caught by fishermen every year.
0:12:47 > 0:12:51Although Galapagos is protected from industrial-scale fishing,
0:12:51 > 0:12:53sharks are still very much at risk.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58Some species of shark migrate to mangroves,
0:12:58 > 0:13:02like these at San Cristobal, to have their young.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10The long roots here provide shelter and protection for these vulnerable
0:13:10 > 0:13:12young sharks from predators.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20Shark pups should be safe within the protection of the mangroves,
0:13:20 > 0:13:22but our scientists have found
0:13:22 > 0:13:26that they're still being caught accidentally by local fishermen.
0:13:26 > 0:13:28We want to find out why this is happening.
0:13:32 > 0:13:36This is a beautiful little volcanic lagoon,
0:13:36 > 0:13:38where hopefully there will be sharks.
0:13:38 > 0:13:42During the day they seek shelter, safety,
0:13:42 > 0:13:44in shallow lagoons like this one.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49Using special nets, we're capturing and tagging the young sharks,
0:13:49 > 0:13:51to find out where they're going.
0:13:56 > 0:14:01So we're just deploying the net from one end of the lagoon to the other,
0:14:01 > 0:14:06just to stop any of the juveniles from exiting the lagoon again.
0:14:06 > 0:14:10And it looks like we've just got several very close to the mangrove.
0:14:14 > 0:14:16Just as with the turtles,
0:14:16 > 0:14:19for each shark caught, we'll need to work fast.
0:14:21 > 0:14:26We just need two minutes to get the sharks here in the boat.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28Everything needs to be really fast.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- Two minutes? - Yeah, maximum two minutes.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34The time the shark is out of the water is really, really important,
0:14:34 > 0:14:36and I'm the only one who's going to be keeping tabs on that,
0:14:36 > 0:14:39so if I forget to do that then we lose track of how long it's been out
0:14:39 > 0:14:42of the water and that is not a good idea.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45It's not long before the sharks make an appearance.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52OK, we've literally just deployed the net
0:14:52 > 0:14:55and there are two sharks in it already.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05OK, just tell me when he's completely out of the water.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- OK, we have one.- Good. 11:49.10.- OK, ready, guys.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13Each juvenile shark has an ID tag fitted
0:15:13 > 0:15:16so its movements can be tracked.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19- Come on.- Floy tag number?
0:15:19 > 0:15:22Floy tag is 2235.
0:15:22 > 0:15:24Total length is 74.1.
0:15:24 > 0:15:27Yeah. Male or female?
0:15:27 > 0:15:29- It's a male.- It's a male?
0:15:29 > 0:15:32You've just done one minute, guys, you're at one minute down.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35- It is...- You got it?
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- Wait.- 7.05.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40Look at you.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43Back in the water.
0:15:45 > 0:15:50You did it in less than two minutes, guys, well done.
0:15:50 > 0:15:52They're so on it, they really are.
0:15:52 > 0:15:551:10, 1:20, that's fab.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58And once they're out, it's like lightning speed.
0:16:04 > 0:16:07This research is still in its early stages,
0:16:07 > 0:16:11but it's confirming that these young sharks need more protection.
0:16:17 > 0:16:20THEY CELEBRATE
0:16:22 > 0:16:24The tracking data is revealing that
0:16:24 > 0:16:28juvenile sharks don't stay within the safety of their own mangroves.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37As they get bigger, the sharks leave the protection of the nursery to
0:16:37 > 0:16:41visit other mangroves along the coast, braving open waters and
0:16:41 > 0:16:43straying into fishing zones.
0:16:45 > 0:16:50A juvenile shark won't just stay around its nursery.
0:16:50 > 0:16:52It will go to other nurseries as well.
0:16:52 > 0:16:54Why would they do that? Do we know why?
0:16:54 > 0:16:58Because of competition.
0:16:58 > 0:17:00There are a lot of babies and they all want food,
0:17:00 > 0:17:03so they start exploring other places.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06So we need to protect the routes the juveniles are using,
0:17:06 > 0:17:08- not just the mangroves?- Yeah.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16Using this data to create no-fishing zones between the mangroves will
0:17:16 > 0:17:18help prevent these young sharks from getting caught
0:17:18 > 0:17:20in the fishermen's nets.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25One of the things I love the most about wildlife research
0:17:25 > 0:17:27is the constant surprises.
0:17:27 > 0:17:31Each new study reveals more information that forces us to
0:17:31 > 0:17:34re-evaluate our understanding of species and their habitats,
0:17:34 > 0:17:36and how to protect them.
0:17:40 > 0:17:43Back on Alucia, our next mission
0:17:43 > 0:17:48is to study one of the most fragile marine animals in Galapagos -
0:17:48 > 0:17:50corals.
0:17:54 > 0:17:59So far on our expedition we've seen no evidence of coral reefs.
0:18:06 > 0:18:10Severe weather events, called El Ninos, have struck Galapagos in
0:18:10 > 0:18:14recent decades, raising sea temperatures here
0:18:14 > 0:18:18by up to 4 degrees. CRASH OF LIGHTNING
0:18:19 > 0:18:22This has caused many corals to become so stressed
0:18:22 > 0:18:24they've eventually died.
0:18:30 > 0:18:3412 of the 13 coral reefs here have been wiped out.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38The only one that survives is located in the north of the islands.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46But this last reef is under threat,
0:18:46 > 0:18:51as many scientists think climate change is making El Ninos worse.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56We want to see how the coral is faring.
0:18:58 > 0:19:01It gets dark quickly on the equator,
0:19:01 > 0:19:03it's just gone six and the sun's beginning to set,
0:19:03 > 0:19:08but that gives us an opportunity to do something really special.
0:19:08 > 0:19:12Heading into the hidden world of the Galapagos oceans at night.
0:19:14 > 0:19:19This is a good time to assess the health of the coral here,
0:19:19 > 0:19:23because our team are using a ground-breaking technique to observe
0:19:23 > 0:19:29its biofluorescence - a mysterious ability certain corals have to
0:19:29 > 0:19:31absorb the blue light of the ocean
0:19:31 > 0:19:34and emit it as incredible neon colours.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38These colours indicate the coral's health,
0:19:38 > 0:19:41but are invisible to the naked eye.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45To see them, our team need to shine a blue light on the reef,
0:19:45 > 0:19:47which works best at night.
0:19:51 > 0:19:54We see the world in a multitude of colours,
0:19:54 > 0:20:00but down there the water absorbs all the wavelengths except for blue.
0:20:00 > 0:20:03And it looks like a pretty one-dimensional world to us,
0:20:03 > 0:20:05but life is actually making use of that blue
0:20:05 > 0:20:08in the most beautiful and extraordinary way.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15Only the most experienced divers are entering the water tonight.
0:20:21 > 0:20:23They're absolutely fearless.
0:20:23 > 0:20:25It's a night dive in the Galapagos
0:20:25 > 0:20:29and there are a lot of sharks around.
0:20:29 > 0:20:31Kudos to them, really and truly.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43Everybody happy?
0:20:43 > 0:20:45OK, let's go down.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56Reefs are huge limestone structures
0:20:56 > 0:21:01created by the millions of tiny corals that live on them.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03They're hotspots of biodiversity.
0:21:04 > 0:21:06Come forward.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16If this last remaining reef in Galapagos can't be saved,
0:21:16 > 0:21:20a vital part of the marine ecosystem will be lost forever.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27As soon as the team switches on their blue lights...
0:21:27 > 0:21:29Yeah, that's good, that's good.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34..a magical world opens up before their eyes.
0:21:36 > 0:21:38Now look at that!
0:21:56 > 0:22:01Understanding how and why corals biofluoresce like this
0:22:01 > 0:22:03is a new frontier for science.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09Unlocking their secrets will help us to understand how reefs are
0:22:09 > 0:22:12threatened and how to protect them.
0:22:16 > 0:22:20They're so beautiful, they really are.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24Bright green fluorescence like this indicates the coral is healthy.
0:22:26 > 0:22:30Scientists think they glow this colour to protect themselves from
0:22:30 > 0:22:33the sun's UV rays, like a kind of sunscreen.
0:22:34 > 0:22:35Looks great.
0:22:37 > 0:22:41The level of green fluorescence suggests the reef is doing well.
0:22:45 > 0:22:48But our team is also detecting other colours.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53Blue patches can indicate coral bleaching,
0:22:53 > 0:22:55damage from rising water temperatures.
0:22:58 > 0:23:03And red can mean the coral is dead, covered with bacteria.
0:23:13 > 0:23:18Corals are the most sensitive indicators of ocean health.
0:23:18 > 0:23:23For now, the last reef in Galapagos seems to be in good shape.
0:23:23 > 0:23:25OK, team, that's it, we're going up.
0:23:26 > 0:23:28But with some signs of damage,
0:23:29 > 0:23:33and with sea temperatures predicted to rise in the future,
0:23:33 > 0:23:38our scientists will be monitoring this precious site very closely.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48Our understanding of biofluorescence is still at an early stage
0:23:48 > 0:23:53but this is a perfect example of how awe-inspiring nature can be,
0:23:53 > 0:23:55and how little we still know about it.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59I mean, I can only imagine what's left to be discovered down there.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02And it also drives home just how important it is to protect
0:24:02 > 0:24:04environments like these.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11CHATTERING OF RADIO
0:24:13 > 0:24:17Our mission is focusing next on how our human footprint
0:24:17 > 0:24:19is impacting the land here.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24We want to observe a species on the edge of extinction...
0:24:26 > 0:24:30..and that's found nowhere else on Earth.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37We've been travelling around these islands for a good few weeks now and
0:24:37 > 0:24:40it's been this breathtaking journey
0:24:40 > 0:24:43through a dramatic volcanic landscape.
0:24:43 > 0:24:46But on this, the next stage of our mission,
0:24:46 > 0:24:51we're heading to a lush green world, unlike any other, where an endemic
0:24:51 > 0:24:53plant is fighting for survival.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59It's located on the fertile island of Santa Cruz.
0:25:02 > 0:25:07Lying 500 metres above sea level, we need to take to the air to reach it.
0:25:15 > 0:25:18Echo Mike Delta, we're ready to fly.
0:25:42 > 0:25:44This critically endangered plant
0:25:44 > 0:25:47provides a home for countless species.
0:25:52 > 0:25:56It's a vital part of the ecosystem,
0:25:56 > 0:26:00helping to trap moisture from the air and irrigating the undergrowth.
0:26:26 > 0:26:29This forest is filled with a plant
0:26:29 > 0:26:32that's endemic to the Galapagos.
0:26:32 > 0:26:36It's related to marigolds and daisies.
0:26:36 > 0:26:40In fact, these are all essentially giant daisy trees, called scalesia.
0:26:43 > 0:26:45This place is so completely different
0:26:45 > 0:26:47to anywhere else I've been on these islands.
0:26:51 > 0:26:55Just over 100 years ago, one species of scalesia
0:26:55 > 0:26:59covered nearly 100 square kilometres of this island.
0:26:59 > 0:27:03Today, just one square kilometre remains.
0:27:05 > 0:27:09These beautiful, delicate trees once dominated
0:27:09 > 0:27:11the Highlands throughout the archipelago,
0:27:11 > 0:27:13each different from the next,
0:27:13 > 0:27:17depending on which island they were on, but all descended from a single
0:27:17 > 0:27:21daisy-like ancestor, whose seed managed to hitch a ride in the
0:27:21 > 0:27:25feathers or perhaps even the belly of a bird
0:27:25 > 0:27:27winging its way to the Galapagos.
0:27:29 > 0:27:34Scientists want to save the tiny amount of scalesia that's left.
0:27:34 > 0:27:36To do that, they need to gain
0:27:36 > 0:27:40insights into how the forest has been impacted and by what.
0:27:43 > 0:27:48Professor Gonzalo Rivas is using the latest drone technology to take
0:27:48 > 0:27:50aerial photos of the forest canopy.
0:27:52 > 0:27:57He's particularly interested in another plant in the area,
0:27:57 > 0:27:59an invasive species of tree
0:27:59 > 0:28:03he believes is responsible for scalesia's downfall.
0:28:05 > 0:28:08What exactly is an invasive species, then?
0:28:08 > 0:28:11So, an invasive species is the one that we humans brought in.
0:28:11 > 0:28:14So there we have a cedar tree, the tall one.
0:28:14 > 0:28:19That is a highly invasive species that have been brought in the last
0:28:19 > 0:28:22century by humans.
0:28:22 > 0:28:27Fast-growing cedar was brought in to provide wood for early settlers.
0:28:27 > 0:28:31And once it took root, it quickly spread.
0:28:31 > 0:28:35But it's not the only invasive species here.
0:28:35 > 0:28:37Introduced guava is a big problem, too,
0:28:37 > 0:28:39and blackberry is also a really noxious weed,
0:28:39 > 0:28:41they can grow really fast.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09So how exactly does this technology work, then, Gonzalo?
0:29:09 > 0:29:14While the drone is flying, it's taking infrared pictures that,
0:29:14 > 0:29:17as you can see in the monitor, it's giving us this colour...
0:29:17 > 0:29:22- Yeah.- ..that afterwards I will use to code the species.
0:29:24 > 0:29:27Gonzalo's camera reveals secret signatures...
0:29:29 > 0:29:33the levels of infrared light reflected by the leaves
0:29:33 > 0:29:35of each plant below.
0:29:35 > 0:29:40The intensity of colour indicates how healthy each plant is,
0:29:40 > 0:29:44giving us an instant snapshot of which ones are doing best.
0:29:47 > 0:29:49In this computer-enhanced image,
0:29:49 > 0:29:52there's barely any evidence of scalesia.
0:29:53 > 0:29:56The blue and purple areas are
0:29:56 > 0:29:59empty space where it once would have thrived.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03The darker red patches indicate the invasive plants that are winning the
0:30:03 > 0:30:05fight for space and light.
0:30:05 > 0:30:08They are the biggest threats to scalesia.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14Gonzalo, how important is the data you're amassing?
0:30:14 > 0:30:18This kind of data is extremely important because it will inform
0:30:18 > 0:30:22directly the National Park and also other scientists to know where the
0:30:22 > 0:30:26main invasive species, plant species, are in the island.
0:30:30 > 0:30:33The results of studies like these are worrying.
0:30:34 > 0:30:3999% of the scalesia forest here has been crowded out.
0:30:42 > 0:30:45I mean, I suppose with only 1% left of the scalesia forest in the
0:30:45 > 0:30:48Highlands, some people might argue, "Look, just let it all die out,
0:30:48 > 0:30:50"let cedar take over."
0:30:50 > 0:30:52But why is that just not the answer?
0:30:52 > 0:30:56This is a unique species and we don't want to lose it.
0:30:56 > 0:31:01It's amazingly important, and if we lose it, it's for good.
0:31:04 > 0:31:08The extinction of scalesia would be catastrophic for the wildlife that
0:31:08 > 0:31:09depends on it.
0:31:18 > 0:31:21Gonzalo and his team are using the drone images
0:31:21 > 0:31:24to target the species that pose the biggest threat.
0:31:30 > 0:31:34They'll focus on removing them, one by one,
0:31:34 > 0:31:36to make space for scalesia once more.
0:31:44 > 0:31:48Galapagos National Park aims to double scalesia's numbers
0:31:48 > 0:31:52and restore this unique and enchanting forest
0:31:52 > 0:31:53to its former glory.
0:32:02 > 0:32:05I'm camping in it tonight.
0:32:05 > 0:32:08It's a rare chance to appreciate its beauty.
0:32:12 > 0:32:16Gonzalo, I was pretty surprised to hear the stats about scalesia,
0:32:16 > 0:32:19you know, that only 1% of these forests remain here.
0:32:19 > 0:32:22The scalesia numbers are striking.
0:32:22 > 0:32:26And we need to use those as...
0:32:26 > 0:32:31as a thermometer, to keep a good eye on these indicator species.
0:32:31 > 0:32:37There's...there's a wake-up call that we need now.
0:32:37 > 0:32:41We do not need to wait until scalesia has gone,
0:32:41 > 0:32:43until other species are gone.
0:32:54 > 0:32:58Seeing for myself what's left of the scalesia forest does make me worry
0:32:58 > 0:33:00about the future of the Galapagos.
0:33:00 > 0:33:04But on this journey, I've also met a whole host of organisations and
0:33:04 > 0:33:07scientists who are committed to making sure that's what's happening
0:33:07 > 0:33:10in the rest of the world doesn't end up happening here,
0:33:10 > 0:33:14that the Galapagos can be the model for how to succeed in protecting the
0:33:14 > 0:33:16natural world.
0:33:38 > 0:33:42Travelling down from the scalesia forest, you can see great trails
0:33:42 > 0:33:44forged through the vegetation.
0:33:52 > 0:33:57They're made by a true creature of habit, which has been using the same
0:33:57 > 0:34:02migration routes to travel across islands for thousands of years.
0:34:06 > 0:34:08The giant tortoise.
0:34:10 > 0:34:15Arguably the most recognisable animal on Galapagos.
0:34:25 > 0:34:28It even gave the islands their name.
0:34:28 > 0:34:31Galapago means tortoise in Old Spanish.
0:34:48 > 0:34:50I'm meeting biologist Steve Blake,
0:34:50 > 0:34:54who's been studying the epic journeys these giant tortoises make.
0:34:56 > 0:34:59Basically, tortoises follow where the good food is,
0:34:59 > 0:35:01and the greenness of the vegetation
0:35:01 > 0:35:02depends on the elevation.
0:35:02 > 0:35:07So, as seasonal swings in rainfall kick in through the Galapagos year,
0:35:07 > 0:35:10the tortoises follow that sort of
0:35:10 > 0:35:13pendulum of greenness as it moves up and down the island.
0:35:13 > 0:35:16But these seasonal migrations have been affected
0:35:16 > 0:35:19by the arrival of humans here.
0:35:22 > 0:35:26Puerto Ayora, the largest town in Galapagos,
0:35:26 > 0:35:29was settled in 1925 as a small fishing village.
0:35:32 > 0:35:36Since then, in the space of just one tortoise generation,
0:35:36 > 0:35:39the population has exploded to over 12,000 people.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47Steve wants to discover what impact
0:35:47 > 0:35:50this is having on the ancient tortoise routes.
0:35:50 > 0:35:52He's been fitting them with
0:35:52 > 0:35:54satellite tags to follow their movements.
0:35:57 > 0:36:02We have about 30-odd tortoises wearing GPS tags on Santa Cruz.
0:36:02 > 0:36:08And those tags, each one records a GPS fix of the tortoise every hour.
0:36:10 > 0:36:14Steve's tagging reveals the huge distances tortoises travel
0:36:14 > 0:36:16to find food.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22Some migrate from sea level to the peaks of volcanoes.
0:36:28 > 0:36:32But Steve's also discovering that the ever-increasing human population
0:36:32 > 0:36:35is having a major impact on these well-worn paths.
0:36:40 > 0:36:43What do we know about how much these migration routes may have changed
0:36:43 > 0:36:46with the growing population here in the Galapagos?
0:36:46 > 0:36:52100 years ago, this giant tortoise behind us was already migrating up
0:36:52 > 0:36:56and down Galapagos, but in completely natural vegetation.
0:36:56 > 0:37:01Today that same tortoise encounters very different conditions up here.
0:37:03 > 0:37:06Fences, roads and other barriers
0:37:06 > 0:37:09that potentially block that migration.
0:37:12 > 0:37:15It's not just the future of giant tortoises at stake.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21These reptiles play a vital role in the whole ecosystem here.
0:37:23 > 0:37:26They've been called the gardeners of the Galapagos.
0:37:27 > 0:37:31As they plough through the vegetation, they spread seeds and
0:37:31 > 0:37:36clear plants, creating light and space for new ones.
0:37:38 > 0:37:42They even stir up insects for birds to eat.
0:37:42 > 0:37:46Without these migration routes allowing giant tortoises to find the
0:37:46 > 0:37:49food they need, these islands would look very different.
0:37:51 > 0:37:54Identifying and mapping these important routes
0:37:54 > 0:37:56will help to inform future expansion plans.
0:37:59 > 0:38:02The trick will be how to sustain the migration and give tortoises what
0:38:02 > 0:38:07they need against the backdrop of development of Galapagos.
0:38:07 > 0:38:11TRACKER BEEPS QUIETLY
0:38:11 > 0:38:14Steve sometimes struggles to get a clear tracking signal from the
0:38:14 > 0:38:16tortoises in the dense forest.
0:38:28 > 0:38:30But all that is about to change,
0:38:32 > 0:38:34thanks to support from an unlikely place.
0:38:36 > 0:38:40Next year we'll be putting some tags on them that will communicate
0:38:40 > 0:38:43directly with the International Space Station
0:38:43 > 0:38:50and send down our GPS data to us, so it'll be much easier to track and
0:38:50 > 0:38:54then follow them over the longer haul with much less effort.
0:38:55 > 0:39:00New miniature tags are also furthering Steve's research,
0:39:00 > 0:39:04allowing him to study the next generation of giant tortoises.
0:39:06 > 0:39:10These youngsters, beaming signals to the International Space Station,
0:39:10 > 0:39:13represent the future of tortoise research.
0:39:16 > 0:39:18And they're helping to ensure the
0:39:18 > 0:39:22preservation of these ancient migration routes for years to come.
0:39:32 > 0:39:35Galapagos is a dynamic place,
0:39:35 > 0:39:39vulnerable to the powerful forces that lie just below the surface.
0:39:43 > 0:39:45For its wildlife,
0:39:45 > 0:39:49threats don't only come from the increasing influence of mankind.
0:39:50 > 0:39:53They also come from deep within the Earth.
0:39:55 > 0:39:58These volcanic islands can change at a moment's notice.
0:40:08 > 0:40:11Alucia has brought us back to the west of the archipelago...
0:40:13 > 0:40:15Mike Delta clear.
0:40:15 > 0:40:17..where our mission began.
0:40:21 > 0:40:25In the far south of the island of Isabela
0:40:25 > 0:40:27is Sierra Negra,
0:40:27 > 0:40:30the largest volcano in Galapagos.
0:40:34 > 0:40:38Scientists warn it could erupt within a few decades,
0:40:38 > 0:40:40creating lava flows that would
0:40:40 > 0:40:44devastate all living things in its path,
0:40:44 > 0:40:50including some of the most unique species in Galapagos.
0:40:53 > 0:40:57Our mission is to predict how the volcano might next erupt.
0:40:59 > 0:41:01To do that, we're going inside it,
0:41:03 > 0:41:06within one of its vast magma chambers.
0:41:11 > 0:41:15That down there is the deepest known cave in the Galapagos.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17But it's not just any old cave,
0:41:17 > 0:41:20it's a vent that branches off from the Sierra Negra volcano here on
0:41:20 > 0:41:25Isabela. It would fill up with lava that would splatter out of the top,
0:41:25 > 0:41:27but eventually all that lava drained out,
0:41:27 > 0:41:31leaving a 100-metre deep chamber that we're going to explore.
0:41:35 > 0:41:40Leading our team are vulcanologists Brent Garry and Scott Hughes.
0:41:41 > 0:41:47They plan to scan the interior of this cave to create a 3D map.
0:41:50 > 0:41:54Knowing the exact size and structure of the chamber will reveal the scale
0:41:54 > 0:41:58and character of the last eruption that occurred here,
0:41:58 > 0:42:03indicating how Sierra Negra is likely to erupt again in the future.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08There are a lot of volcanoes on the surface of the Earth, and they're
0:42:08 > 0:42:13all worth exploring. However, there are only a few that actually still
0:42:13 > 0:42:17have the magma chamber available to explore.
0:42:18 > 0:42:22It makes it a fantastic place to study the inside of a volcano.
0:42:23 > 0:42:26But getting down there won't be easy.
0:42:36 > 0:42:38Brent is going in first.
0:42:44 > 0:42:47- Careful where you put your feet, because it's slightly undercut.- OK.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51Oh, good grief.
0:42:54 > 0:42:55And then it's my turn.
0:42:57 > 0:42:59If you duck down just a bit.
0:43:02 > 0:43:04Just don't look down, don't look down.
0:43:07 > 0:43:10God, I just looked down.
0:43:16 > 0:43:19Keep doing what you're doing, just feeding it through slow and steady.
0:43:19 > 0:43:21- Just trust the equipment.- OK.
0:43:39 > 0:43:41I don't think I've ever felt
0:43:41 > 0:43:46quite so small and insignificant as right now.
0:43:52 > 0:43:54Just incredible.
0:44:14 > 0:44:18I'm 100 metres, 30 storeys, below ground.
0:44:21 > 0:44:24And in lava caves like this, you're never alone.
0:44:48 > 0:44:50Brent goes straight to work.
0:44:52 > 0:44:54So tell me about this Lidar, then?
0:44:54 > 0:44:56It's a near-infrared laser,
0:44:56 > 0:45:02and it will spin 360 and it will get millimetre precision and accuracy of
0:45:02 > 0:45:04all the layers of rock that we see here
0:45:04 > 0:45:06from the floor to the ceiling.
0:45:11 > 0:45:15The Lidar scanner fires laser beams in all directions.
0:45:16 > 0:45:20It's the first time this technology has been used in Galapagos.
0:45:23 > 0:45:28What are you hoping your Lidar is going to reveal about this chamber?
0:45:28 > 0:45:31So it's very rare that we actually get to go below the volcano.
0:45:31 > 0:45:35We'll have places that are constantly erupting but we won't
0:45:35 > 0:45:38have a good idea of what the magma chambers are like below it and
0:45:38 > 0:45:40where are those conduits
0:45:40 > 0:45:42that are constantly feeding different eruptions.
0:45:42 > 0:45:45So being able to come in, that'll give us a new understanding of
0:45:45 > 0:45:47what's going on here in the Galapagos.
0:45:55 > 0:45:58There are many different types of volcanic eruptions.
0:45:59 > 0:46:03But this 3D map reveals exactly what happened here.
0:46:06 > 0:46:08The rough texture of the walls
0:46:08 > 0:46:11indicates that explosive blasts of magma were thrown upwards.
0:46:15 > 0:46:19These mounds at the surface were created by a fire fountain,
0:46:21 > 0:46:24hurling molten rock high into the air
0:46:24 > 0:46:26before falling to the ground.
0:46:28 > 0:46:32Instead of a gentle eruption with slowly flowing lava,
0:46:32 > 0:46:35this is evidence that a more violent eruption occurred.
0:46:37 > 0:46:42We can also calculate the volume of magma that filled the chamber.
0:46:42 > 0:46:45This tells us the eruption most likely happened in just a few
0:46:45 > 0:46:48explosive hours.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51I have to say it feels pretty special to sit here, imagining
0:46:51 > 0:46:53that once lava used to rush through here,
0:46:53 > 0:46:55at what sort of temperatures?
0:46:55 > 0:46:58Those temperatures are between 1,100 and 1,200 degrees C.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01- Right, so this is quite unique? - It is, it is very unique.
0:47:01 > 0:47:04You've got a big smile on your face. This is exactly your cup of tea.
0:47:04 > 0:47:08Yeah, this is...yeah, this is my Disney World, yeah.
0:47:09 > 0:47:16This new 3D map confirms what once happened inside this chamber,
0:47:16 > 0:47:21providing a blueprint for eruptions here and revealing clues about how
0:47:21 > 0:47:24Sierra Negra is likely to explode again,
0:47:24 > 0:47:27and how its wildlife might be threatened.
0:47:43 > 0:47:47Our scientific expedition around Galapagos is almost at an end.
0:47:50 > 0:47:53But we have one final mission to carry out...
0:47:55 > 0:47:58..to look for volcanic activity below the waves.
0:47:59 > 0:48:03Evidence that a brand-new Galapagos Island is being born.
0:48:08 > 0:48:12Our destination is a small rocky outcrop,
0:48:12 > 0:48:14Roca Redonda.
0:48:25 > 0:48:28Mission geologist Karen Harpp
0:48:28 > 0:48:30is fascinated about what lies beneath it.
0:48:34 > 0:48:38She's interested in features called fumaroles,
0:48:38 > 0:48:43telltale signs that this volcano is still active.
0:48:43 > 0:48:46So you can basically think of a fumarole as a vent
0:48:46 > 0:48:49for hot gases and fluids,
0:48:49 > 0:48:53and they're a really good sign that the volcano is still
0:48:53 > 0:48:56potentially active at any time.
0:48:56 > 0:49:01Finding evidence of these sea vents will prove that Roca Redonda could
0:49:01 > 0:49:03one day erupt,
0:49:03 > 0:49:07and over millions of years become a true Galapagos Island of its own.
0:49:13 > 0:49:17In Alucia's mission control, we've been scanning
0:49:17 > 0:49:19the seabed to create 3D maps.
0:49:20 > 0:49:25Scans like these allow us to observe every detail of where we're heading.
0:49:28 > 0:49:31So there it is, Roca Redonda.
0:49:31 > 0:49:35So, really, the exposed bit we can see is a tiny fraction of the top.
0:49:35 > 0:49:38There's just this little bit there on the top
0:49:38 > 0:49:41that sticks out and clears the water.
0:49:41 > 0:49:45The tiny island above the surface is just the tip of the iceberg.
0:49:45 > 0:49:50The scans reveal that, underwater, it's a huge volcano,
0:49:50 > 0:49:533km tall and almost 20km wide.
0:49:53 > 0:49:56But is it still active?
0:49:56 > 0:50:00Steve, what's the plan? How deep will we go?
0:50:00 > 0:50:03Our maximum depth we're going to be diving is going to be
0:50:03 > 0:50:05- between about 18 and 25 metres.- OK.
0:50:05 > 0:50:09We should get a nice long dive and be able to explore everything.
0:50:10 > 0:50:14I'm keen to see if this is the beginning of a new island.
0:50:16 > 0:50:19But it's going to be one of the most challenging dives of the expedition.
0:50:23 > 0:50:27So, Liz, deep ocean currents sweeping up the
0:50:27 > 0:50:31Galapagos archipelago, and they're crashing into the underwater
0:50:31 > 0:50:34topography under this rock. The current is strong.
0:50:34 > 0:50:39OK, I'm just excited to watch what scientists call still an active
0:50:39 > 0:50:41volcano, what that looks like underwater.
0:50:45 > 0:50:50The dive team has carried out over 10,000 dives between them.
0:50:50 > 0:50:56But they never take the power of the ocean for granted.
0:50:56 > 0:50:59Bubbi is going to be beside me every step of the way.
0:50:59 > 0:51:01We're going to jump in at the same time,
0:51:01 > 0:51:05I'll catch you right in the water.
0:51:05 > 0:51:07As soon as we're in the water, it's straight to the bottom.
0:51:07 > 0:51:10It's going to be good.
0:51:11 > 0:51:13- Whoa!- Yep, you can go ahead and spin it.- Look at that!
0:51:23 > 0:51:26OK, I'm going in.
0:51:26 > 0:51:27Ready?
0:51:40 > 0:51:44We quickly descend to the seabed to avoid the strongest
0:51:44 > 0:51:47of the currents that could sweep us out into the Pacific.
0:51:51 > 0:51:54And I'm greeted by the most extraordinary sight.
0:52:09 > 0:52:12This volcano is well and truly active.
0:52:15 > 0:52:18The bubbles are proof that gases are being released
0:52:18 > 0:52:20from deep beneath this young volcano.
0:52:29 > 0:52:31Full of carbon dioxide,
0:52:31 > 0:52:34these vents make the water next to them warmer
0:52:34 > 0:52:36and ten times more acidic.
0:52:40 > 0:52:44But despite these hostile conditions, life is thriving.
0:52:47 > 0:52:50These bacteria, algae and sponges
0:52:50 > 0:52:53have evolved to survive on the vents,
0:52:53 > 0:52:57and many of them might well be new, as yet unnamed species.
0:53:02 > 0:53:05As the strong cold currents bring with them vital nutrients,
0:53:05 > 0:53:07marine life abounds here.
0:53:16 > 0:53:20One day, Roca Redonda may erupt once more...
0:53:25 > 0:53:29..growing into another spectacular Galapagos island.
0:53:34 > 0:53:39Its underwater wonderland could transform into a haven
0:53:39 > 0:53:42for an incredible diversity of other species.
0:53:52 > 0:53:54It's so beautiful down there! It's so beautiful!
0:53:56 > 0:53:58It's just...
0:53:58 > 0:54:01There's nothing like it in the universe.
0:54:01 > 0:54:03Oh, God, it was epic.
0:54:03 > 0:54:05Oh, that was an amazing dive.
0:54:05 > 0:54:09Those bubbles, bubbles everywhere.
0:54:09 > 0:54:11Coming up from all the rocks, all over the place.
0:54:16 > 0:54:19You know, I've always wanted to come here all my life,
0:54:19 > 0:54:24to see not only the wildlife but the volcanoes that make the Galapagos
0:54:24 > 0:54:28what they are, but I never thought for a minute that I'd get to see the
0:54:28 > 0:54:31process of island formation from beneath the waves.
0:54:31 > 0:54:33That was quite something.
0:54:38 > 0:54:43Our mission in Galapagos set out to help transform our understanding of
0:54:43 > 0:54:46this unique and extraordinary island chain...
0:54:50 > 0:54:54..200 years after Charles Darwin first came here.
0:54:55 > 0:54:57And it's been an incredible journey.
0:55:00 > 0:55:06Bringing 20 world-leading scientists into this living laboratory.
0:55:06 > 0:55:08- How does that feel?- It feels great.
0:55:08 > 0:55:10We've been wanting to do this for a couple of years,
0:55:10 > 0:55:14and we've been dreaming about it.
0:55:14 > 0:55:19And using ground-breaking technology to carry out research never
0:55:19 > 0:55:25attempted on this scale before, our team have made new discoveries here.
0:55:25 > 0:55:27It's hoped they will help to protect
0:55:27 > 0:55:30this wildlife paradise for the future.
0:55:30 > 0:55:36Mark this waypoint, transducer deployment site. Over.
0:55:36 > 0:55:38Being able to deploy listening stations,
0:55:38 > 0:55:40it allows us to keep our finger on the pulse.
0:55:42 > 0:55:45'Finding new species in its ocean...
0:55:45 > 0:55:47Can we get Tommy to grab that one?
0:55:47 > 0:55:51This just changes everything. Everything.
0:55:51 > 0:55:54'..and animals on the edge of extinction.'
0:55:54 > 0:55:59To set eyes on a pink iguana is an honour, actually.
0:55:59 > 0:56:01There will be chances for this species to survive.
0:56:05 > 0:56:10But there's still so much more to learn.
0:56:10 > 0:56:13They're so beautiful, they really are.
0:56:13 > 0:56:18Our scientists have laid the groundwork for research projects
0:56:18 > 0:56:20that will continue for decades to come.
0:56:28 > 0:56:33These Galapagos Islands are exceptional, in so many ways.
0:56:33 > 0:56:37I've truly felt part of nature here, not separate from it,
0:56:37 > 0:56:39not a spectator.
0:56:39 > 0:56:44And it's been an awe-inspiring and humbling experience.
0:56:55 > 0:56:59This place offers up a glimpse of what the natural world can look like
0:56:59 > 0:57:03when it's at its best. And it still has so much to teach us,
0:57:03 > 0:57:06not only with respect to the natural wonders that lie waiting to be
0:57:06 > 0:57:08discovered and understood,
0:57:08 > 0:57:11but it can also teach us how to get things right,
0:57:11 > 0:57:15how to protect wildlife for generations to come,
0:57:15 > 0:57:17not only here but the world over.