Episode 1

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0:00:06 > 0:00:11'To the North, West and South, Wales is surrounded by sea.

0:00:13 > 0:00:17'This sea covers a hidden landscape full of extraordinary wildlife.

0:00:19 > 0:00:21'It also has secret history.'

0:00:21 > 0:00:24No-one really knows

0:00:24 > 0:00:27where this ship was from or where it was going to.

0:00:27 > 0:00:32'The Welsh sea has shaped some wonderful unspoiled landscapes.

0:00:33 > 0:00:37'And these landscapes change according to the mood of the sea.

0:00:40 > 0:00:43'The sea around Wales has one of the biggest tidal ranges

0:00:43 > 0:00:48'in the world and as a result produces pretty powerful carbons.

0:00:48 > 0:00:49'It supplies food...'

0:00:49 > 0:00:53Oh, that's a nice one. Look at that. It is a nice big one, that one.

0:00:53 > 0:00:56'..pleasure

0:00:56 > 0:00:58'and energy.

0:00:58 > 0:01:01'I'm on a sea journey of Wales,

0:01:01 > 0:01:05'from Deeside in the North to the Severn Estuary in the South.

0:01:06 > 0:01:09'I'm meeting people who work on the sea...'

0:01:09 > 0:01:11It must be colder out in these conditions all the time.

0:01:11 > 0:01:14- Well, believe it or not, today is quite a nice day.- Is it?- Yeah.

0:01:14 > 0:01:16'..those who have a passion for the sea...'

0:01:16 > 0:01:20Imagine seeing that for the first time ever.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23I normally go to work on Monday morning with dirty nails.

0:01:23 > 0:01:27'..and discovering the amazing wildlife that lives in the sea.'

0:01:27 > 0:01:29How fantastic is that!

0:01:41 > 0:01:44With the size of nearly 6,000 square miles,

0:01:44 > 0:01:47Welsh territorial waters are nearly double the size of Wales.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51It's a vast area open to the elements

0:01:51 > 0:01:54and a place when nature's energy can be harnessed.

0:01:59 > 0:02:02I'm heading out of Mostyn Docks on Deeside

0:02:02 > 0:02:05on a crew transportation vessel that takes construction

0:02:05 > 0:02:09and service technicians out to wind turbines off the North Wales coast.

0:02:11 > 0:02:15The sea today is rough because of strong northerly winds.

0:02:15 > 0:02:18But the exposed nature of the location and the regularity

0:02:18 > 0:02:22of high winds is precisely why the turbines have been placed here.

0:02:27 > 0:02:31The first turbines were constructed here over ten years ago.

0:02:31 > 0:02:35Another 160 turbines are currently being built at a site

0:02:35 > 0:02:39appropriately called Gwynt y Mor, a Welsh phrase meaning the sea wind.

0:02:40 > 0:02:44John Davies, on the left, overseas the maintenance of the turbines

0:02:44 > 0:02:46once they're built.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49And Jon Darling oversees the construction.

0:02:51 > 0:02:55What strikes me straightaway is we are six or seven kilometres offshore, or whatever we are,

0:02:55 > 0:03:00how on earth do you erect a turbine in the middle of the sea?

0:03:00 > 0:03:05Erm, with a lot of planning, I think, is the simplest way of putting it.

0:03:05 > 0:03:08Gwynt y Mor, for example,

0:03:08 > 0:03:10has been on the drawing board for over a decade.

0:03:10 > 0:03:12We're now in the water constructing it.

0:03:12 > 0:03:16A lot of engineering design goes into how we are going to build

0:03:16 > 0:03:21and construct it. We have a monopile, it's driven into the seabed.

0:03:21 > 0:03:24What's a monopile? Like a big jackhammer?

0:03:24 > 0:03:27It's a steel tube that is driven into the seabed

0:03:27 > 0:03:32and that gives you the stability then to put your turbine on top of that.

0:03:32 > 0:03:35And maintenance, John, what is that?

0:03:35 > 0:03:37Is that just coming out, keeping an eye,

0:03:37 > 0:03:38making sure things are all right?

0:03:38 > 0:03:42These turbines have a service once a year

0:03:42 > 0:03:43via a specialist team of technicians.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45We're based at the port of Mostyn.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47It's quite complex and fancy machinery

0:03:47 > 0:03:50but it's quite a simple service - oil changes,

0:03:50 > 0:03:52checking the condition of the turbine.

0:03:52 > 0:03:55Have you ever come out onto one of these

0:03:55 > 0:03:58and all of a sudden, there has been a change in weather

0:03:58 > 0:04:01and you're stuck, thinking, "How am I going to get back?"

0:04:01 > 0:04:03We've not had that yet.

0:04:03 > 0:04:06Each turbine has got a pack of sleeping bags and food.

0:04:06 > 0:04:10If that eventuality did occur, they would be all right for the night

0:04:10 > 0:04:13but we try and stay a good 24 hours ahead of the weather.

0:04:13 > 0:04:15So, if there is a storm brewing,

0:04:15 > 0:04:18- you just bring everybody off, do you?- Yes, that's right.

0:04:18 > 0:04:20- Abandon work and bring everybody back?- Yep.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23'The turbines are huge constructions.

0:04:23 > 0:04:25'It's between 15 and 20 metres

0:04:25 > 0:04:27'to the top of the yellow platforms alone,

0:04:27 > 0:04:31'and up to 150 metres to the top of the turbines.

0:04:31 > 0:04:34'It's just as well that there are lifts inside them

0:04:34 > 0:04:36'to take the technicians to the top.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39'Apprentice Natasha Frost is one of them.'

0:04:39 > 0:04:41What took you into that?

0:04:41 > 0:04:45- That's a pretty unusual job.- Well, I did a bit of engineering in college.

0:04:45 > 0:04:50And obviously, I live in Rhyl, I have seen them going up

0:04:50 > 0:04:52and I've always been interested in them.

0:04:52 > 0:04:55So, I saw the advertisement and thought I might as well give it a go,

0:04:55 > 0:04:56and I got the job.

0:04:56 > 0:04:59So, you can see these out of your bedroom window, almost?

0:04:59 > 0:05:01- Yes, basically, yeah. - Well done, you.

0:05:01 > 0:05:03It will be interesting, it will be very different.

0:05:03 > 0:05:06Yeah. I was a lifeguard before that

0:05:06 > 0:05:08- so it's very different to anything I have done before.- Oh, wow.

0:05:08 > 0:05:11- Well, that's handy if you fall in, anyway.- Yeah, I'll just swim.

0:05:11 > 0:05:14- You'll swim back home after that! - Yeah.

0:05:16 > 0:05:18When it becomes fully operational during 2014,

0:05:18 > 0:05:22Gwynt y Mor will be the second largest wind farm in the world,

0:05:22 > 0:05:25capable of powering 400,000 homes.

0:05:25 > 0:05:29That's around a third of the total number of homes in Wales.

0:05:31 > 0:05:35Areas have also been identified as sites to build even more turbines

0:05:35 > 0:05:38further offshore in the Irish Sea between Wales and the Isle of Man.

0:05:38 > 0:05:40They'll cost millions to construct

0:05:40 > 0:05:45and will reduce dependency on carbon dioxide producing power stations.

0:05:45 > 0:05:48But the seascape of Wales won't quite be the same as it was.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56The Conwy Estuary is overlooked by the magnificent

0:05:56 > 0:05:58backdrop of Snowdonia.

0:05:58 > 0:06:01It's a harbour that is used by all sorts of pleasure boats

0:06:01 > 0:06:03and fishing vessels.

0:06:07 > 0:06:12'I'm setting off with fisherman Carl Davies and his crew of one, Sean,

0:06:12 > 0:06:15'roughly three hours before high tide

0:06:15 > 0:06:16'to maximise time out at sea

0:06:16 > 0:06:19'and to ensure there is enough time to return to harbour

0:06:19 > 0:06:21'before low water.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26'The correct timing of departure with the tide is critical,

0:06:26 > 0:06:30'as there are dangerous sandbanks in the estuary.'

0:06:30 > 0:06:33So, you've got to follow this...

0:06:33 > 0:06:35line all the way out this way, have you?

0:06:35 > 0:06:39Yes, that's the main channel that goes through there.

0:06:39 > 0:06:43At this stage of the tide, we have to go right around.

0:06:43 > 0:06:45But there are a couple of short cuts.

0:06:45 > 0:06:49There's one here that we can use two hours each side of high water.

0:06:49 > 0:06:51And then, there's another short cut here

0:06:51 > 0:06:54but that one is filling in, the sands are changing all the time.

0:06:55 > 0:06:59Carl is a pot fisherman and mainly catches lobsters and crabs.

0:07:01 > 0:07:05'This morning we're heading for the Great Orme near Llandudno.'

0:07:05 > 0:07:07Nice place to put the pots out, Carl,

0:07:07 > 0:07:10- right underneath the Great Orme. - That's it, yeah.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13It's lovely, isn't it? All the Kittiwakes going around, look.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19'The pots are actually baskets with fish bait.'

0:07:21 > 0:07:23That's not bad, is it, bringing them up two a pot?

0:07:23 > 0:07:25- That's a nice... - Yeah, nice one.

0:07:25 > 0:07:26..female fish.

0:07:26 > 0:07:30It's moulted, probably three or four weeks ago, it's pretty hard so...

0:07:30 > 0:07:33How do you know that's female as opposed to a male, then?

0:07:33 > 0:07:38She's got a really broad tail, smaller claws than the male,

0:07:38 > 0:07:41and she's got little feathery bits there

0:07:41 > 0:07:42whereas the male has hard appendages.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45Ah right, cos later on they'll have the eggs along here, won't they?

0:07:45 > 0:07:46Yeah.

0:07:46 > 0:07:50'Lobsters eat pretty much anything that they can catch or

0:07:50 > 0:07:53'scavenge including shellfish, starfish and crabs.

0:07:53 > 0:07:55'They'll even eat seaweed and dead fish.

0:07:55 > 0:07:59'So it's little wonder that they end up in baited baskets.'

0:07:59 > 0:08:01Hey that's a nice crab that one, isn't it?

0:08:01 > 0:08:03Look at the size on that.

0:08:03 > 0:08:06Meat in those claws, boys, look at that. Wow!

0:08:07 > 0:08:09There we are, in you go.

0:08:09 > 0:08:11Couple of sandwiches off that one.

0:08:11 > 0:08:15Yeah, yeah. Oh, nothing like a good old crab sandwich, lovely.

0:08:16 > 0:08:20With the first catch collected, Carl and Sean re-submerge the pots.

0:08:23 > 0:08:26It's a simple but ingenious set up.

0:08:27 > 0:08:30The pots are linked together with rope with a weight at one end

0:08:30 > 0:08:31and a float at the other.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40You wouldn't want to get tangled up in the rope

0:08:40 > 0:08:42or you'd quickly be 20m under.

0:08:45 > 0:08:48On our way to the next pots, we get a nice surprise,

0:08:48 > 0:08:50we're joined by a pod of dolphins.

0:08:52 > 0:08:55Right in here, look.

0:08:55 > 0:08:57Oh, they are bottlenose too, aren't they?

0:08:59 > 0:09:00Oh, wow.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05Do you see them often out here - bottlenose dolphins?

0:09:05 > 0:09:10We do see them occasionally in-shore here, but more often than not,

0:09:10 > 0:09:11further off shore.

0:09:11 > 0:09:15You're quite lucky today to see them this close in shore, really.

0:09:15 > 0:09:17It's the first time I've ever seen bottlenose dolphins

0:09:17 > 0:09:20off this area, really.

0:09:20 > 0:09:23I mean, I associate them with being further south and off Newquay and

0:09:23 > 0:09:25Aberystwyth and all down Cardigan Bay

0:09:25 > 0:09:27but it's lovely to see them up here.

0:09:29 > 0:09:33'The dolphins have come to the bay near Llandudno to hunt for fish.

0:09:33 > 0:09:36'They confirm that the hidden landscape in the sea here is

0:09:36 > 0:09:38'full of life.

0:09:38 > 0:09:41'There are also additional clues in Carl's fishing pots.'

0:09:43 > 0:09:45So those are eggs there, are they, Carl?

0:09:45 > 0:09:47Yes, yeah, cuttlefish eggs.

0:09:47 > 0:09:49Wow, there's some more inside as well.

0:09:49 > 0:09:53I suppose a lobster pot like that is ideal for them, brilliant.

0:09:53 > 0:09:55Scorpion fish.

0:09:55 > 0:09:58They've got spines on here that they can raise up.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01But you can imagine that at the bottom of the sea,

0:10:01 > 0:10:05in amongst some stones, really well camouflaged there.

0:10:05 > 0:10:09A cod in there, look. Little thing under the chin here.

0:10:12 > 0:10:14Nice fish, cod, very nice fish.

0:10:14 > 0:10:16Off he goes.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20Greater dogfish this one, isn't it now?

0:10:20 > 0:10:21Greater spotted dogfish, yes.

0:10:21 > 0:10:23Greater spotted dogfish, that's right.

0:10:23 > 0:10:24Bull huss is the nickname.

0:10:24 > 0:10:27Bull huss, yeah, I love the way you call them bull husses.

0:10:27 > 0:10:29He's not very happy.

0:10:29 > 0:10:32He's not very happy so I'm going to put him back in, boys.

0:10:32 > 0:10:34Greater spotted dogfish, look at that.

0:10:34 > 0:10:38Lovely, lovely fish. Back in you go, go on.

0:10:38 > 0:10:39Off he goes.

0:10:40 > 0:10:45'There are around 500 commercial fishing vessels in Wales.

0:10:45 > 0:10:48'The majority are small like Carl's which fish close to

0:10:48 > 0:10:50'shore for lobsters and crabs.

0:10:52 > 0:10:55'Some of the catch is sold for local consumption

0:10:55 > 0:10:58'but as transport links get better and quicker, more and more

0:10:58 > 0:11:03'of it is being exported to the rest of the UK and Europe - even Asia.

0:11:03 > 0:11:06'So it's important that it is a regulated industry to ensure

0:11:06 > 0:11:11'a healthy and sustainable population of fishermen and fish.

0:11:12 > 0:11:14'Because below the surface, there's

0:11:14 > 0:11:16'a hidden wealth that's very precious.'

0:11:21 > 0:11:24Shoals of sea bass swim close to our shores.

0:11:25 > 0:11:28Small-spotted catsharks patrol the sea bed.

0:11:31 > 0:11:35Brown crabs are at home scavenging for food amongst the rocks.

0:11:37 > 0:11:42Species like cod and spiny spider crabs are all taken as food,

0:11:42 > 0:11:43if their size permits.

0:11:47 > 0:11:49We also catch black bream.

0:11:51 > 0:11:52And prawns.

0:11:54 > 0:11:58If we must eat them then we must ensure there's plenty of them.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01And return and protect non-commercial

0:12:01 > 0:12:03species like scorpion fish.

0:12:12 > 0:12:16The sea around Wales can be challenging waters to navigate.

0:12:16 > 0:12:18Not least because of big tides.

0:12:20 > 0:12:23One of the strongest currents in Britain flows in The Swellies,

0:12:23 > 0:12:26a section of the Menai Straits under the two bridges.

0:12:27 > 0:12:29The Menai Suspension

0:12:29 > 0:12:32and Britannia bridges link the mainland with Anglesey

0:12:32 > 0:12:36and between them, there are hidden rocks and shallow banks underwater.

0:12:37 > 0:12:39This makes navigation hazardous for boats.

0:12:41 > 0:12:44There are also strong currents during changing tides, and unless a

0:12:44 > 0:12:49boat has sufficient power, it can't move against the fast flowing water.

0:12:49 > 0:12:53This is exactly what happened in 1953, when the old battleship

0:12:53 > 0:12:57HMS Conway ran aground near the suspension bridge.

0:12:57 > 0:13:01Richard Jones is the current Menai Strait pilot.

0:13:01 > 0:13:05My grandfather and great-grandfather were the pilots who were actually

0:13:05 > 0:13:09on board the Conway on the fateful day in 1953 when she was lost.

0:13:09 > 0:13:13Originally, the Conway, she was a training ship,

0:13:13 > 0:13:15an old wooden wall battleship.

0:13:15 > 0:13:17They had decided to establish a shore-based school

0:13:17 > 0:13:22very near Plas Newydd in 1953. They were bringing her back to

0:13:22 > 0:13:26take her through to Birkenhead, they wanted to take her to do some

0:13:26 > 0:13:30refurbishment work in a dry dock there. They had to go through

0:13:30 > 0:13:34on the slack water on the biggest tides of the year in order to have

0:13:34 > 0:13:38enough water - she was a very deep draughted vessel to go through here.

0:13:38 > 0:13:40Very shortly after that the tide would be turning

0:13:40 > 0:13:44and what happens in the Menai Straits is it's coming up

0:13:44 > 0:13:47in Liverpool Bay while it's starting to drop in

0:13:47 > 0:13:51Caernarfon Bay and very quickly the tide is accelerating down hill, and

0:13:51 > 0:13:56so soon after entering, the tide was starting to build up against them.

0:13:56 > 0:14:00My great-grandfather had already advised that they should enter

0:14:00 > 0:14:03earlier than the time planned by the captain but they wouldn't listen.

0:14:03 > 0:14:05And he also requested a more powerful tug,

0:14:05 > 0:14:08she was being towed through.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11They got just this side of the Swellie rock, through the narrow

0:14:11 > 0:14:15point, and the tide was running very, very strong in this area here.

0:14:15 > 0:14:19A very turbulent flow and they got to a certain stage and she was just

0:14:19 > 0:14:23stood dead in the water basically and she wasn't going anywhere.

0:14:23 > 0:14:26Eventually, with the turbulent tidal flow, she took a sheer to

0:14:26 > 0:14:29starboard and she went ashore just on the shore over here.

0:14:31 > 0:14:33Even after 60 years,

0:14:33 > 0:14:37parts of the HMS Conway still exist in the Menai Straits.

0:14:38 > 0:14:40I've decided to look for them.

0:14:42 > 0:14:46I'm diving during slack water when the water currents are not strong.

0:14:46 > 0:14:49If a big ship can't sail against the tide,

0:14:49 > 0:14:51I certainly can't swim against it.

0:14:53 > 0:14:57On the seabed I find pieces of the ship's timber covered with sea life.

0:15:00 > 0:15:05I always find it amazing how wildlife takes over

0:15:05 > 0:15:08immediately something sinks and this is no different.

0:15:08 > 0:15:12And of course, the Menai Straits has a rapid current. It flows

0:15:12 > 0:15:17through here back and forth many times every day so that means

0:15:17 > 0:15:21that it's nutrient rich and it's no surprise to come down and see

0:15:21 > 0:15:27all kinds of sponges and starfish and anemones and fish here.

0:15:27 > 0:15:29It's a very, very rich environment,

0:15:29 > 0:15:31especially on an old wreck like this.

0:15:34 > 0:15:38'In fact, the Menai Straits is one of the richest wildlife

0:15:38 > 0:15:39'habitats in Wales.

0:15:39 > 0:15:43'There are many different species of sponges, sea squirts,

0:15:43 > 0:15:46'crabs and other creatures living here.'

0:15:46 > 0:15:49Even though this warship was mainly built of wood

0:15:49 > 0:15:52and a lot of that has burnt away, you do find the odd bit of metal

0:15:52 > 0:15:55here and there. Here's a big bit, I don't know, it

0:15:55 > 0:15:58might have been a mast, I doubt it, the mast would probably have

0:15:58 > 0:16:01been wooden, I'm not quite sure what it was but, like everything

0:16:01 > 0:16:06else down here now it's covered in sponges and especially starfish.

0:16:06 > 0:16:10I don't think I've ever seen so many starfish in one place in my life.

0:16:23 > 0:16:27The sea is used for all kinds of leisure activities.

0:16:27 > 0:16:30One of the most physically demanding sports is coastal

0:16:30 > 0:16:32and offshore rowing.

0:16:32 > 0:16:35There are over 30 sea rowing clubs in Wales.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38Trireme, Ynys Mon Rowing Club is based in Bull Bay

0:16:38 > 0:16:40near Amlwch, Anglesey.

0:16:40 > 0:16:42OK, row on, firm pressure on reds.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51Medium pressure.

0:16:56 > 0:17:00How often will you come out, then, and practice like this as a team?

0:17:00 > 0:17:03We come out every Tuesday night.

0:17:03 > 0:17:04Is there a league then or what?

0:17:04 > 0:17:06Yes, there's a league.

0:17:06 > 0:17:09And how far do you have to go? Do you go all around Wales?

0:17:09 > 0:17:11Erm, we go as far down as...

0:17:11 > 0:17:14I think probably Newquay is the furthest.

0:17:14 > 0:17:16Oh, right.

0:17:16 > 0:17:18OK, and together.

0:17:18 > 0:17:22So if you're in a race, how far will you go or does it vary a lot?

0:17:22 > 0:17:24It varies quite a lot.

0:17:24 > 0:17:28So you've got to build up stamina and speed have you for this.

0:17:28 > 0:17:32Yeah, a lot of it's about endurance when you do the races.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34Yeah.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37OK, it's getting very lumpy now, girls, OK? Hold on, Iolo.

0:17:37 > 0:17:39Hold on.

0:17:39 > 0:17:41'We're heading for East Mouse Island, which is

0:17:41 > 0:17:44'more of a lump of rock than an island..

0:17:44 > 0:17:46Try to keep the balance if you can.

0:17:46 > 0:17:48'And with strong currents surrounding it,

0:17:48 > 0:17:50'it's the rowing equivalent of running up hill.'

0:17:52 > 0:17:54That's good.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59Feathered blades, please, if we can.

0:17:59 > 0:18:01OK, medium pressure.

0:18:01 > 0:18:04'Sea rowing is an increasingly popular sport,

0:18:04 > 0:18:07'and apparently a 12st person can burn more

0:18:07 > 0:18:11'than 300 calories during 30 minutes of rowing.

0:18:11 > 0:18:14'At 15 stones, I weigh quite a bit more than that,

0:18:14 > 0:18:16'so hopefully I'll burn even more.

0:18:16 > 0:18:18Watch the shoulder in front of you.

0:18:18 > 0:18:21Excellent, just keep following Tina's shoulder

0:18:21 > 0:18:23- Oh, I mucked up then. - Don't look at your oar!

0:18:23 > 0:18:26I want to look at my oar or I'll miss the sea!

0:18:26 > 0:18:30Good, excellent.

0:18:31 > 0:18:33Look at Tina in front of you.

0:18:33 > 0:18:37I'd rather watch the oar! I mess up if I don't watch the oar.

0:18:37 > 0:18:42I know it's not the way to do it! It's either that or mess up.

0:18:42 > 0:18:44Get on, girls.

0:18:48 > 0:18:52Oh, Porpoise, Can you see it?

0:18:52 > 0:18:53How far away?

0:18:53 > 0:18:57There you are! There's a mum and baby together.

0:18:57 > 0:18:58Is there? There are two?

0:18:58 > 0:19:01Puffing pigs, they used to call them, wasn't it?

0:19:01 > 0:19:04Cos they're short, fat little things and they come up to puff.

0:19:04 > 0:19:07Puffing pigs, it's over here now. Oh, wow!

0:19:07 > 0:19:08Yeah, right by us here.

0:19:10 > 0:19:13- And that's why we do it. - Yeah, I can see why you do it.

0:19:15 > 0:19:18'The great thing about spending time out on the water is that you

0:19:18 > 0:19:20'often see great things.

0:19:20 > 0:19:23'Porpoise are common around the seas of Wales.

0:19:23 > 0:19:26'The north Anglesey coast is a good place to see them.

0:19:26 > 0:19:30'And that's because they like to come close to shore near rocky

0:19:30 > 0:19:31'headlands to hunt for fish.'

0:19:39 > 0:19:43The sea is a gateway for merchants and travellers.

0:19:43 > 0:19:45One of Wales' biggest ports is at Holyhead.

0:19:47 > 0:19:50It's the busiest ferry terminal in the United Kingdom

0:19:50 > 0:19:51north of the English Channel.

0:19:53 > 0:19:56The port has five terminals with over two million passengers

0:19:56 > 0:20:00passing through them on their way to and from Ireland every year.

0:20:01 > 0:20:05As it's a deep water port and doesn't empty at low tide,

0:20:05 > 0:20:08boats can dock here 24 hours a day.

0:20:11 > 0:20:15In addition to the ferries, huge cruise ships, fishermen,

0:20:15 > 0:20:17and other types of vessels use the port.

0:20:19 > 0:20:23A quarter of the working population of Holyhead works here.

0:20:23 > 0:20:25Alan Haynes is one of them.

0:20:27 > 0:20:31Big ships in unfamiliar ports always need local pilots to guide them

0:20:31 > 0:20:34through safe channels to their moorings.

0:20:34 > 0:20:36So you're the pilot are you?

0:20:36 > 0:20:40No, no, I'm the pilot boat operator, that's my title in this job.

0:20:40 > 0:20:46Pilot boat operator, and I'm on call 24 hours a day, 365 days in a year.

0:20:46 > 0:20:48And the pilot boat does what?

0:20:48 > 0:20:53Take the pilot to a ship or go out and get him off the ship.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55Oh, OK, and the pilot on the ship guides them in?

0:20:55 > 0:20:59- He guides them in. - Right, OK.

0:20:59 > 0:21:01I've been doing this job for 22 years now,

0:21:01 > 0:21:04and about three weeks ago we had a cruise ship come here and

0:21:04 > 0:21:09he couldn't berth alongside Anglesey on the jetty so we had to go out,

0:21:09 > 0:21:14and I went out to take the pilot off the ship and the weather was so bad

0:21:14 > 0:21:18I couldn't get him off - the first time in 22 years I couldn't get

0:21:18 > 0:21:22the pilot off or on the ship, so he had to go to Ireland with the ship.

0:21:22 > 0:21:24Well, I tell you what, you wouldn't believe that now, would you?

0:21:24 > 0:21:26It's flat calm, it's lovely weather.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29If you can see the lighthouse on the breakwater,

0:21:29 > 0:21:32sometimes when it's rough from North Westerly winds,

0:21:32 > 0:21:34you won't see that breakwater when you're in the trough,

0:21:34 > 0:21:38and when you come up on top of the wave, you're looking down on it.

0:21:40 > 0:21:44'Holyhead Port requires constant maintenance both on dock

0:21:44 > 0:21:45'and out at sea.

0:21:46 > 0:21:50'Some of the most important pieces of equipment are buoys,

0:21:50 > 0:21:52'which are crucial for navigation.

0:21:53 > 0:21:56Hugh Owen and his crew are changing a faulty one.'

0:21:58 > 0:22:01You've put one buoy down, Hugh and what are you going to do now,

0:22:01 > 0:22:02pick the old one up, is it?

0:22:02 > 0:22:04Yeah, retrieve that one and take it back in.

0:22:04 > 0:22:07That's a spare one. If any of the buoys break overnight,

0:22:07 > 0:22:09- we can put that one in. - Right, OK

0:22:09 > 0:22:12The flashing sequence can be changed on that one

0:22:12 > 0:22:15- to any sequence required. - Right, and what,

0:22:15 > 0:22:17there's a different sequence on every buoy as you come in?

0:22:17 > 0:22:20Every buoy in the harbour is a different sequence

0:22:20 > 0:22:22so you know exactly which buoy is which one.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25And by that you know exactly where you are with reference to

0:22:25 > 0:22:26harbour entrance.

0:22:26 > 0:22:28Exactly. Even if you lose everything and there's fog,

0:22:28 > 0:22:31if you're close to a buoy you can tell what's there, which one it is.

0:22:31 > 0:22:34Always amazes me that these buoys float because they're

0:22:34 > 0:22:35so heavy, aren't they?

0:22:35 > 0:22:37Yeah, and there's a lot of chain on them as well.

0:22:37 > 0:22:39There's about 20m of chain on it as well.

0:22:39 > 0:22:42- And that's to anchor it down to the bottom.- Yeah.

0:22:42 > 0:22:44And is this the work that you usually do?

0:22:44 > 0:22:45I thought tug boats,

0:22:45 > 0:22:48you sort of dragged the big ships in and out of harbour

0:22:48 > 0:22:49and what have you.

0:22:49 > 0:22:52Yeah, we do all kinds of different work, we do a lot of buoy work.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55We're going on Saturday to help a ship in and out of Mostyn,

0:22:55 > 0:23:00we tow barges, pipelines, whatever's required normally.

0:23:00 > 0:23:02- So have you always been a seaman? - Yes.

0:23:02 > 0:23:04Spent your whole life on the sea?

0:23:04 > 0:23:07Well, my father was a tug captain so even when I was 15 I used to

0:23:07 > 0:23:11go on school holidays on the boat with him, you know.

0:23:11 > 0:23:14- Oh, did you? - It's something I always wanted to do

0:23:14 > 0:23:16and it's a good career for this part of the world, there's not many

0:23:16 > 0:23:20good jobs ashore and if you go to sea you can earn a lot more money.

0:23:24 > 0:23:26Not far from Holyhead

0:23:26 > 0:23:30and further along the south west coast of Anglesey, there's a small

0:23:30 > 0:23:35tidal island known as Cribinau, and on it lies the church of St Cwyfan.

0:23:36 > 0:23:38The church can only be reached at low tide,

0:23:38 > 0:23:41because the sea has eroded away the surrounding rock.

0:23:43 > 0:23:47It's an impressive example of the erosive power of the sea.

0:23:48 > 0:23:50And in the bay surrounding the island,

0:23:50 > 0:23:54you'll find sea life typical of similar bays on the coast of Wales.

0:23:56 > 0:23:58Hermit crabs and shore crabs are common.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01Also lobsters.

0:24:01 > 0:24:06There are also unusual-looking fish like pipefish.

0:24:06 > 0:24:07And tompot blennies,

0:24:07 > 0:24:11strange looking fish with tentacles above their eyes.

0:24:11 > 0:24:15The sea life around Wales is both diverse and extraordinary.

0:24:15 > 0:24:18These are sea hares, big, big sea slugs.

0:24:18 > 0:24:22You can see another one just over here now.

0:24:22 > 0:24:24And they're gathering to lay eggs,

0:24:24 > 0:24:27they lay their eggs on this seaweed here.

0:24:27 > 0:24:32And I've seen over 20, there may be a lot, lot more than that here.

0:24:32 > 0:24:34All gathering to lay their eggs,

0:24:34 > 0:24:38to tie their eggs around the seaweed all at one time.

0:24:38 > 0:24:41And as sea slugs go, these are big ones,

0:24:41 > 0:24:45they come in all shapes and sizes, some very, very colourful and this

0:24:45 > 0:24:49is one of the biggest and commonest you'll get around the Welsh coast.

0:24:52 > 0:24:56Heading southwest from Porth Cwyfan, I pass Llanddwyn Island,

0:24:56 > 0:24:58another part-time island, which is

0:24:58 > 0:25:00only cut off from the mainland at high tide.

0:25:03 > 0:25:07Although the white tower on the left looks like an old windmill, it's

0:25:07 > 0:25:12in fact an old beacon that guided ships heading for the Menai Straits.

0:25:12 > 0:25:15The current beacon on the right is smaller and stands in front

0:25:15 > 0:25:19of cottages which were built to house ship pilots.

0:25:20 > 0:25:23Llanddwyn and Newborough dunes are near the Southern

0:25:23 > 0:25:25entrance to the Menai Straits.

0:25:25 > 0:25:29While in the past the ships passing through the Straits serviced

0:25:29 > 0:25:31the slate quarries of Snowdonia,

0:25:31 > 0:25:35many of the industries today on the Menai revolve around tourism.

0:25:37 > 0:25:40You don't need to dive to discover the wildlife

0:25:40 > 0:25:41living in the seas around Wales.

0:25:41 > 0:25:43You can see some of our sea species

0:25:43 > 0:25:46in the aquaria of Anglesey's Sea Zoo.

0:25:48 > 0:25:52There are crawfish, crustaceans related to lobsters

0:25:52 > 0:25:53but with tiny claws.

0:25:55 > 0:25:57Turbot, our largest flatfish.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01And the strange-looking cuttlefish, which isn't a fish

0:26:01 > 0:26:04but an animal related to octopus and squid.

0:26:07 > 0:26:11The water in these tanks is pumped in directly from the Menai Straits,

0:26:11 > 0:26:15and the quality has to be perfect to keep the plants and animals healthy.

0:26:15 > 0:26:19The condition of the water is checked regularly

0:26:19 > 0:26:22by Anglesey Sea Zoo's Dylan Evans and Frankie Hobro.

0:26:22 > 0:26:26By doing this now, you're looking for any pollutants or anything,

0:26:26 > 0:26:28like a warning sign almost, are you?

0:26:28 > 0:26:30The majority of water, as you know, comes in from this side,

0:26:30 > 0:26:33from the south side of the strait, so the strait completely

0:26:33 > 0:26:37empties every six to seven days, it's totally refreshed.

0:26:37 > 0:26:40So a few times a year, along with other people who take similar

0:26:40 > 0:26:43samples, we take our own baseline samples, just to compare that

0:26:43 > 0:26:47we've got the situation within the tanks really reasonably accurately.

0:26:47 > 0:26:49The great thing about that of course is that you get

0:26:49 > 0:26:51the changes in temperature, seasonality,

0:26:51 > 0:26:54you also get things like plankton that the animals can feed on.

0:26:54 > 0:26:56It also allows us to have stock rotation,

0:26:56 > 0:26:59so nothing has to stay in captivity forever.

0:26:59 > 0:27:01The other great thing environmentally, of course,

0:27:01 > 0:27:05about using sea water, is that we don't have to mix our own water.

0:27:05 > 0:27:07By mix your own water, what do you mean by that?

0:27:07 > 0:27:11Generally, you have to import water from somewhere like the Dead Sea.

0:27:11 > 0:27:14- Do you?- Yeah, where it's heavily exploited already.

0:27:14 > 0:27:17With salt in order to mix the water properly.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20I'd have thought, say you had an aquarium in Plymouth,

0:27:20 > 0:27:22that you would have pumped in water from the sea by there.

0:27:22 > 0:27:26- Very, very rare.- And is that because of the pollution in their seas?

0:27:26 > 0:27:29- Compared to the Menai. - Some places it's because they're

0:27:29 > 0:27:32so coastal that they would have problems maintaining water

0:27:32 > 0:27:34quality with the amount of water they require.

0:27:34 > 0:27:36We've been approached, haven't we, about selling sea water?

0:27:36 > 0:27:38We do sell to other aquaria, weirdly, yeah.

0:27:38 > 0:27:41So you sell Menai Straits water to other aquaria?

0:27:41 > 0:27:44- We do, to hobbyists as well. - That's fantastic.

0:27:44 > 0:27:45That's right.

0:27:46 > 0:27:49I always knew Welsh water was exported,

0:27:49 > 0:27:53but what I didn't know was that it also included Welsh sea water.

0:27:53 > 0:27:57It's a surprising addition to the hidden value of our sea.

0:27:57 > 0:28:01Above the surface, the beauty is clear for all to see.

0:28:01 > 0:28:04But below there's an even richer landscape with some

0:28:04 > 0:28:05extraordinary wildlife.

0:28:09 > 0:28:11'Next time, I will be discovering more about the wealth

0:28:11 > 0:28:15'of the Welsh sea around the Llyn Peninsula in a kayak.'

0:28:15 > 0:28:18Is that a seal? Popped up to have a look.

0:28:18 > 0:28:21'I'll be finding an old wreck in the sea off Porth Dinllaen.'

0:28:21 > 0:28:26This is all Welsh slate, the ship itself has all but gone.

0:28:26 > 0:28:29'I'll be sailing from Pwllheli.'

0:28:29 > 0:28:32This boat only goes out racing with the aim of winning.

0:28:32 > 0:28:34'And I'll be finding a Mediterranean shrimp

0:28:34 > 0:28:36'living off the coast of Abersoch.'

0:28:36 > 0:28:39Why it's here, don't ask. Nobody really knows, but there he is.