Shark People of the Pacific

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04'I'm Gordon Buchanan, a wildlife cameraman.'

0:00:04 > 0:00:06Drive, drive. Go, go, go.

0:00:06 > 0:00:08'I've filmed animals for 25 years,

0:00:08 > 0:00:11'including some of the world's most dangerous.'

0:00:11 > 0:00:13My hands are shaking.

0:00:13 > 0:00:17'But what's it like to live alongside fierce predators?'

0:00:20 > 0:00:23'And raise your children with deadly neighbours?'

0:00:23 > 0:00:25So this bird has caught wolves before?

0:00:25 > 0:00:28'To find out, I'm going to live with three tribal families.'

0:00:28 > 0:00:30Not what I was expecting.

0:00:30 > 0:00:34'They'll show me these creatures from a new perspective.'

0:00:38 > 0:00:42'Getting me closer to these animals than I've ever been before.

0:00:44 > 0:00:46'In the Solomon Islands,

0:00:46 > 0:00:49'I'll see whether it's possible to live with sharks.'

0:00:49 > 0:00:51It is spooky as hell down there.

0:00:51 > 0:00:56'In Mongolia, I'll try to bond with the golden eagle.'

0:00:57 > 0:01:00She's not a rifle or a shot gun but she's every bit as lethal.

0:01:00 > 0:01:04'And in Ethiopia, I learn to walk with Africa's hyenas.'

0:01:04 > 0:01:08WHISPER: I can hear the crunching of bones. I'm completely surrounded.

0:01:09 > 0:01:12'Spending time with these people

0:01:12 > 0:01:15'will be a life-changing experience...

0:01:17 > 0:01:22'..transforming my understanding of the animals we fear most.'

0:01:35 > 0:01:39I'm on my way to a remote island in the South Pacific.

0:01:39 > 0:01:42I'm going to meet a group of people that have a closer relationship

0:01:42 > 0:01:46with sharks than perhaps anyone else on the planet.

0:01:47 > 0:01:51'It's so isolated, it's taken me four days to get here.'

0:01:54 > 0:01:58The part in my imagination which sharks occupy, like many people,

0:01:58 > 0:02:00is a place of fear.

0:02:00 > 0:02:04'I'm over a thousand miles off the north-east coast of Australia...

0:02:05 > 0:02:08'..heading deep into the Pacific Ocean.

0:02:09 > 0:02:13'My destination is the tiny island of Owarigi.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17'It feels like I'm travelling to the edge of the world.

0:02:18 > 0:02:23'I've heard the people of Owarigi have a deep connection with sharks.

0:02:24 > 0:02:27'I want to understand how they manage to live alongside

0:02:27 > 0:02:29'these feared predators.

0:02:36 > 0:02:40'The Owarigi islanders rarely receive visitors.

0:02:40 > 0:02:42'I really don't know what to expect.'

0:02:44 > 0:02:45This really is stunning.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48The water is crystal clear,

0:02:48 > 0:02:49palm-fringed beaches.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51Beautiful.

0:02:51 > 0:02:53We've got a welcoming committee as well.

0:02:53 > 0:02:55ISLANDERS SHOUT

0:03:02 > 0:03:05It's a welcome like no other.

0:03:14 > 0:03:17I'm not sure I want to come ashore now.

0:03:17 > 0:03:20'In the past, when strangers landed on Owarigi,

0:03:20 > 0:03:23'there was often conflict.

0:03:23 > 0:03:25'This enthusiastic greeting

0:03:25 > 0:03:29'is a reminder of their headhunting history.'

0:03:29 > 0:03:31That was something else.

0:03:32 > 0:03:34Not what I was expecting.

0:03:36 > 0:03:37Hi.

0:03:38 > 0:03:39I'm Gordon.

0:03:40 > 0:03:42Willie, nice to meet you, Willie.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46Good to meet you. I'm Gordon.

0:03:47 > 0:03:50Moses? Nice to meet you, Moses. Thank you.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54'Before we can leave the beach,

0:03:54 > 0:03:58'there's a formal welcome from the island's big chief, Father Matthew.'

0:04:27 > 0:04:29Thank you very much.

0:04:29 > 0:04:31I've enjoyed it so far.

0:04:33 > 0:04:35'The island is just a mile across

0:04:35 > 0:04:38'but home to nearly a thousand people.

0:04:39 > 0:04:43'Their language is only spoken by a few other communities

0:04:43 > 0:04:44'on neighbouring islands.

0:04:45 > 0:04:49'They live almost entirely from the sea,

0:04:49 > 0:04:51'getting most of their protein from fish.

0:04:56 > 0:05:00'Cousins Sosimo and Moses will be my mentors.

0:05:01 > 0:05:04'They are expert spear fishermen.

0:05:07 > 0:05:11'And they come face-to-face with sharks on a daily basis.

0:05:12 > 0:05:14'Oceanic whitetips.

0:05:18 > 0:05:19'Hammerheads.

0:05:21 > 0:05:24'And several types of reef shark.

0:05:32 > 0:05:36'Moses and Sosimo have agreed to take me spear fishing...

0:05:37 > 0:05:39'..and teach me about sharks.

0:05:40 > 0:05:44'What they don't know is that I have a fear of sharks.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49'The men have a healthy respect for these predators.

0:05:49 > 0:05:52'Moses has some advice.'

0:05:56 > 0:05:58Would a shark grab it?

0:06:01 > 0:06:02Really? OK.

0:06:07 > 0:06:09Let me see your goggles.

0:06:12 > 0:06:14Very good.

0:06:16 > 0:06:18Mine are bigger than that.

0:06:18 > 0:06:19Let me show you.

0:06:19 > 0:06:21Hang on.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25OK?

0:06:46 > 0:06:48OK. This is good.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50I'm excited.

0:06:51 > 0:06:53Read excitement as fear.

0:07:11 > 0:07:15'My mind's full of terrifying images of sharks.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18'I'm worried about what's lurking beneath me.

0:07:23 > 0:07:27'A storm has made these normally clear waters murky.

0:07:27 > 0:07:30'That's making me even more nervous.

0:07:36 > 0:07:39'I'm way out of my comfort zone.'

0:07:56 > 0:07:58Only one thing for it.

0:08:03 > 0:08:08'As I dive down, the pressure in my sinuses and ears is overpowering.

0:08:11 > 0:08:14'Moses and Sosimo are in the sea every day of their lives

0:08:14 > 0:08:17'and are completely at home underwater.'

0:08:28 > 0:08:32I think my ability to hold my breath

0:08:32 > 0:08:35has been kind of hampered somewhat by feeling...

0:08:35 > 0:08:37feeling a bit nervous.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40I think anyone that grew up in the '70s and '80s,

0:08:40 > 0:08:44the kind of Jaws generation, you do feel vulnerable.

0:08:44 > 0:08:47You don't feel part of the underwater world.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51If your eyes, your hearing, all your senses are above...

0:08:51 > 0:08:52above the water,

0:08:52 > 0:08:55you really don't know what's going on underneath you

0:08:55 > 0:08:58and that can make you feel very, very exposed.

0:08:59 > 0:09:02Seeing Sosimo and Moses underwater, you see they feel...

0:09:02 > 0:09:04They look really at home there.

0:09:04 > 0:09:07As at home as a human being can feel.

0:09:07 > 0:09:09I dunno, I feel like a kind of beached whale.

0:09:17 > 0:09:21You seem to manage to go down and hover just a metre below the surface

0:09:21 > 0:09:24whereas I keep on coming up to the top, like a...

0:09:25 > 0:09:27..fat bottle.

0:09:34 > 0:09:37'Moses tells me that to be safe with sharks

0:09:37 > 0:09:40'I need to learn to be relaxed when I dive.

0:09:41 > 0:09:44'Spending time teaching me to free dive

0:09:44 > 0:09:48'means the men aren't spearing fish for their families.

0:09:48 > 0:09:51'The sooner I can help catch dinner, the better.'

0:10:14 > 0:10:15Sounds a good idea.

0:10:15 > 0:10:21'I am exhausted, so the next lesson will have to wait until tomorrow.

0:10:26 > 0:10:31'Over the next two weeks, I'll be staying with Moses and his family.'

0:10:33 > 0:10:34Hey.

0:10:38 > 0:10:39Thank you.

0:10:40 > 0:10:42'Because of the day's training,

0:10:42 > 0:10:45'there's not much for dinner tonight.'

0:10:45 > 0:10:46That's good.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50What time do we start the lessons tomorrow?

0:11:00 > 0:11:02I'm looking forward to it, but I'm...

0:11:03 > 0:11:05..so tired.

0:11:07 > 0:11:09Thank you. Thank you, thank you.

0:11:11 > 0:11:13I'm going to dream of sharks.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19It was quite an interesting day.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22I was kind of glad that I didn't see a shark. Not on my first dive.

0:11:22 > 0:11:25I think I'm kind of getting used to being underwater

0:11:25 > 0:11:29and trying to spend as much time under the water as possible.

0:11:34 > 0:11:36BATS SQUEAL

0:11:38 > 0:11:40CHICKENS CLUCK

0:11:47 > 0:11:51'The next morning, Moses is up early and brings me breakfast in bed.'

0:11:56 > 0:11:59Nice one. Thank you. I am actually starving.

0:12:01 > 0:12:03This island has a lot...

0:12:04 > 0:12:07..and I mean a lot of chickens.

0:12:09 > 0:12:12COCKEREL CROWS

0:12:15 > 0:12:17Let's go.

0:12:18 > 0:12:19I say I'm ready...

0:12:26 > 0:12:29I want to see how this is done. I'm intrigued.

0:12:29 > 0:12:33'Moses and Sosimo are going to teach me to shoot a spear gun,

0:12:33 > 0:12:36'island style, using a papaya target.'

0:12:37 > 0:12:39Go.

0:12:40 > 0:12:43We've got, like, literally a stick, some rubber...

0:12:44 > 0:12:47..and a piece... So three pieces.

0:12:48 > 0:12:50Right, show me. I want to see how this works.

0:12:55 > 0:12:56OK.

0:12:58 > 0:13:00That is so clever.

0:13:04 > 0:13:06How difficult can that be?

0:13:08 > 0:13:09Okey dokey.

0:13:14 > 0:13:16So just one piece?

0:13:18 > 0:13:20Closer? That's good.

0:13:27 > 0:13:29Ah, you bandit!

0:13:37 > 0:13:38Ah, you...!

0:13:38 > 0:13:40LAUGHTER

0:13:47 > 0:13:49My hand's quite sore, by the way.

0:13:52 > 0:13:53CHEERING

0:13:59 > 0:14:00Thank you. Thank you.

0:14:03 > 0:14:05'I need to master the spear gun

0:14:05 > 0:14:08'and how to get out to where the big fish and sharks live.

0:14:09 > 0:14:13'That means canoeing through the surf.'

0:14:16 > 0:14:20It's not the most stable vessel I've been in.

0:14:22 > 0:14:24Are you sure about this?

0:14:29 > 0:14:31Any slight movement, you kind of move...

0:14:31 > 0:14:34One inch to the left, one inch to the right,

0:14:34 > 0:14:36and it feels like the whole thing is going to go over.

0:14:36 > 0:14:38'My weight is making it worse.

0:14:38 > 0:14:41'I'm so much bigger than the locals.'

0:14:42 > 0:14:44Oh. First wave.

0:14:47 > 0:14:49I can see some white water behind me

0:14:49 > 0:14:51and I'm not too happy about it.

0:14:56 > 0:14:57Bail.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00Bail. Bail.

0:15:04 > 0:15:06Going under. We're going under.

0:15:06 > 0:15:07Whoa!

0:15:16 > 0:15:18Forget the spear fishing lessons,

0:15:18 > 0:15:21I think we need some boating lessons first.

0:15:26 > 0:15:30'I've scuppered the spear fishing before it's even started.'

0:15:31 > 0:15:35I'll be honest with you, I've had more successful fishing trips.

0:15:36 > 0:15:38We're going to need a bigger boat.

0:15:39 > 0:15:41I'm a lot taller than...

0:15:41 > 0:15:44a lot of the local men,

0:15:44 > 0:15:48so I think it's probably just, sort of, having a lot of weight up top

0:15:48 > 0:15:50and that instability.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53'Moses isn't impressed.'

0:16:03 > 0:16:08'If we capsized in the open ocean, it could have been serious.

0:16:08 > 0:16:11'In that case, Moses would have called on Wairowo,

0:16:11 > 0:16:14'the shark spirit they worship, to rescue us.

0:16:16 > 0:16:19'With the fishing trip on hold, Moses introduces me to a man

0:16:19 > 0:16:23'who believes he was saved by this spirit during a shark attack.'

0:16:25 > 0:16:26Good to meet you.

0:16:26 > 0:16:27So you got bitten by a shark?

0:16:34 > 0:16:35Can I see underneath?

0:16:39 > 0:16:40Ouch.

0:16:40 > 0:16:43And what happened? Were you fishing?

0:17:03 > 0:17:06And do you know what kind of shark it was?

0:17:08 > 0:17:12If Wairowo, the spirit shark, hadn't helped you,

0:17:12 > 0:17:15what do you think would have happened?

0:17:23 > 0:17:27'To many people here, this shark spirit is a constant presence,

0:17:27 > 0:17:30'protecting them at sea.

0:17:30 > 0:17:35'It's also a lesson that sharks can be both friend and foe.

0:17:36 > 0:17:39'I'm hoping I won't need to call on Wairowo for help.

0:17:42 > 0:17:45'Moses and Sosimo still need to feed their families,

0:17:45 > 0:17:47'so we're going spear fishing again

0:17:47 > 0:17:50'but this time in the dead of night.'

0:17:51 > 0:17:55I'm just on my way down to meet Sosimo and Moses

0:17:55 > 0:17:57and we are about to go out on...

0:17:58 > 0:18:00..a night dive.

0:18:00 > 0:18:03We're going to be hunting fish with spears...

0:18:04 > 0:18:06..in the pitch black,

0:18:06 > 0:18:09and that is something that

0:18:09 > 0:18:12I am not at all looking forward to.

0:18:20 > 0:18:24I'll be honest, I'm very nervous about going out at night-time.

0:18:24 > 0:18:26Are you sure this is a good idea?

0:18:38 > 0:18:40Right.

0:18:40 > 0:18:42Let's all stay together, OK?

0:18:46 > 0:18:49A chill ran down my spine!

0:18:51 > 0:18:54'It's high tide, so we can swim out from shore.

0:19:11 > 0:19:15'The ocean feels so different at night.

0:19:17 > 0:19:19'It's disorientating.

0:19:20 > 0:19:22'And puts me on edge.'

0:19:23 > 0:19:27I really don't like this. It is spooky as hell down there.

0:19:29 > 0:19:32Every time a little wave breaks on the surface,

0:19:32 > 0:19:35I think it's a bloody big shark coming to get me.

0:19:36 > 0:19:39I just hope I live to tell the tale.

0:19:44 > 0:19:48'Moses and Sosimo often spear fish at night with torches.

0:19:53 > 0:19:57'But my aim is even worse in the pitch black.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03'Fishing now may be more productive for the men,

0:20:03 > 0:20:06'but for me it's terrifying.'

0:20:12 > 0:20:16I've never known a night to be so all-encompassing.

0:20:19 > 0:20:21All is black, all is night,

0:20:21 > 0:20:24the sky is dark, the sea is black.

0:20:27 > 0:20:29Nightmares come to you.

0:20:30 > 0:20:32You don't know what's out there in the deep.

0:20:32 > 0:20:35You don't know what's out there in the dark.

0:20:38 > 0:20:43'I must try and control my nerves or I'll never catch anything.

0:20:43 > 0:20:48'I'm struggling to hunt in the dark while keeping an eye out for sharks,

0:20:48 > 0:20:52'but Moses's aim is as good as ever.

0:20:56 > 0:20:59'In my desperation to catch something for the family,

0:20:59 > 0:21:01'a crayfish seems an easy target.

0:21:03 > 0:21:07'But its spines slice right through my skin.

0:21:12 > 0:21:14'I'm bleeding.

0:21:15 > 0:21:17'Out of the gloom...

0:21:17 > 0:21:19'..I spot a shark.

0:21:22 > 0:21:25'My heart is racing.

0:21:26 > 0:21:31'Sosimo told me to keep eye contact at all times.'

0:21:40 > 0:21:43I caught a glimpse of a shark.

0:21:44 > 0:21:47Just the briefest glimpse.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49It disappeared off into the...

0:21:50 > 0:21:54..depths. But it was a shark.

0:21:54 > 0:21:56100% guaranteed.

0:21:59 > 0:22:03'The men say that sharks are much more interested in fish blood

0:22:03 > 0:22:04'than mine.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11'The shark seemed more scared than I was.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16'To my relief, the men decide we should head for shore.

0:22:18 > 0:22:21'Back at home, it's time to cook our catch,

0:22:21 > 0:22:23'with Moses and his wife Jemima.

0:22:24 > 0:22:26'With four children to feed,

0:22:26 > 0:22:29'the few fish we've caught won't go far.'

0:22:29 > 0:22:31Jemima...

0:22:32 > 0:22:34..here's a present.

0:22:38 > 0:22:40How many do you think I caught?

0:22:47 > 0:22:51OK, I'm sensing a lot of disappointment.

0:22:51 > 0:22:52OK, tomorrow...

0:22:52 > 0:22:55Tomorrow, tomorrow, I promise.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01Do you know what the real problem is?

0:23:01 > 0:23:04Some of the fish that I did see and I thought I could shoot,

0:23:04 > 0:23:08I thought they looked too nice to shoot. They were too...

0:23:18 > 0:23:20I know.

0:23:20 > 0:23:23Because I can go to the shop and I buy fish...

0:23:24 > 0:23:27..and I'll happily fish with a fishing line and a hook,

0:23:27 > 0:23:31but there's something different about actually being under the water

0:23:31 > 0:23:32and being selective.

0:23:40 > 0:23:42Were there more fish when you were younger?

0:23:55 > 0:23:59Speaking of eating fish, is this ready now? I'm starving.

0:24:08 > 0:24:11That'll be good for my hunting instincts tomorrow,

0:24:11 > 0:24:13if I'm hungry already.

0:24:13 > 0:24:15'Moses is going to be hard to win over

0:24:15 > 0:24:17'but Jemima is more forgiving.'

0:24:17 > 0:24:20Is that for me? But that's a big one.

0:24:20 > 0:24:22You said I was only going to have a small one.

0:24:22 > 0:24:24Let's share this one.

0:24:26 > 0:24:27Have some of this one.

0:24:27 > 0:24:29Oh, man, that is so nice.

0:24:34 > 0:24:38Don't worry, I'll make you proud. I don't want to disappoint you.

0:24:44 > 0:24:46'I'm beginning to think my lack of success

0:24:46 > 0:24:49'isn't just due to inexperience.

0:24:49 > 0:24:52'There aren't as many fish as there used to be.

0:24:53 > 0:24:57'It's worrying because the islanders rely on fish to survive.

0:24:58 > 0:25:02'The few chickens and pigs are only enough for special occasions.

0:25:07 > 0:25:10'Their small gardens provide vegetables,

0:25:10 > 0:25:14'but without fish there's no way the island could sustain its population.

0:25:17 > 0:25:19'However, I don't think it's just these people

0:25:19 > 0:25:22'who are responsible for the falling fish stocks.

0:25:26 > 0:25:28'For the Solomons' government,

0:25:28 > 0:25:31'access fees for international trawlers

0:25:31 > 0:25:33'are an important source of revenue,

0:25:33 > 0:25:37'but they scoop up four times more fish than local communities.

0:25:41 > 0:25:45'This means less food for people like Moses and Sosimo.

0:25:50 > 0:25:53'We head out to set up underwater cameras.

0:25:55 > 0:25:58'I want to find out which fish are here

0:25:58 > 0:26:01'and if there's any sign of the sharks

0:26:01 > 0:26:03'this country's famous for.

0:26:04 > 0:26:06'Sharks are a sign of a healthy reef

0:26:06 > 0:26:09'and it worries me that I've seen so few.'

0:26:09 > 0:26:12What I have here, this contraption...

0:26:13 > 0:26:16..is a camera rig

0:26:16 > 0:26:20and, as enticement, we've got some crayfish heads

0:26:20 > 0:26:24that somebody in the village donated to me, left over from their dinner.

0:26:24 > 0:26:27The scent from these crayfish heads

0:26:27 > 0:26:30will drift out with the current,

0:26:30 > 0:26:33and what I'm hoping is that there will be sharks

0:26:33 > 0:26:35downwind, so to speak, of this scent,

0:26:35 > 0:26:38and they'll definitely be interested in that.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41I'm going to point this camera in this direction,

0:26:41 > 0:26:43keep these ones facing out the way.

0:26:43 > 0:26:45Just going to start them all running.

0:26:45 > 0:26:47I'm going to have to lob it.

0:26:47 > 0:26:49One, two, three...

0:26:50 > 0:26:52Nice.

0:26:55 > 0:26:57So I'm just going to guide it down.

0:27:00 > 0:27:03And make sure it doesn't land on a nice bit of coral.

0:27:03 > 0:27:05I can see where the sand is.

0:27:07 > 0:27:09OK, nice, nice. There we go.

0:27:11 > 0:27:12Good.

0:27:19 > 0:27:21'On the way back from setting up the rig,

0:27:21 > 0:27:24'we come across an amazing sight.

0:27:27 > 0:27:29'A pod of spinner dolphins.'

0:27:35 > 0:27:37Oh, look at that!

0:27:37 > 0:27:39Oh, great!

0:27:49 > 0:27:51Woohoo!

0:27:51 > 0:27:53There must be about 100 of them.

0:27:53 > 0:27:55That is incredible.

0:28:01 > 0:28:04Right, I'm going to see if I can get in with them.

0:28:07 > 0:28:09Right.

0:28:14 > 0:28:17'Moses and Sosimo don't have a motor boat

0:28:17 > 0:28:20'so wouldn't normally come this far from shore.

0:28:20 > 0:28:23'It's a chance to share an encounter with an animal

0:28:23 > 0:28:25'they rarely get close to.'

0:28:33 > 0:28:34Absolutely stunning.

0:28:34 > 0:28:38When it comes to style and grace underwater,

0:28:38 > 0:28:42these dolphins put even Sosimo and Moses to shame.

0:28:42 > 0:28:44Beautiful.

0:28:44 > 0:28:47I think dolphins, more than any other animal on Earth,

0:28:47 > 0:28:51have this ability to make you feel good and make you smile,

0:28:51 > 0:28:53even underwater.

0:29:09 > 0:29:11One, two, three...

0:29:14 > 0:29:17'On our way home, the conditions quickly change.

0:29:17 > 0:29:20'A cyclone's passing by to the north

0:29:20 > 0:29:22'and we're getting the tail end of it.

0:29:25 > 0:29:29'It's brought strong winds and pounding rain.

0:29:29 > 0:29:31'So much for a tropical paradise.

0:29:31 > 0:29:35'We drive out the cold the Owarigi way.'

0:29:35 > 0:29:37THEY CHANT

0:29:46 > 0:29:48'We make it safely to shore,

0:29:48 > 0:29:51'where the children are taking advantage of the wind

0:29:51 > 0:29:54'with their ingenious home-made toys.'

0:29:54 > 0:29:57It is very, very windy today.

0:29:58 > 0:30:02Maybe not surprisingly, the nicest place to hang out on the island

0:30:02 > 0:30:04is the beach.

0:30:04 > 0:30:07It's where the kids hang out

0:30:07 > 0:30:10and they are absolutely charming.

0:30:10 > 0:30:15They're gorgeous. They're always happy and smiling.

0:30:15 > 0:30:19I think living somewhere like this, for a child,

0:30:19 > 0:30:21is a really charmed existence.

0:30:21 > 0:30:24Very safe and secure.

0:30:25 > 0:30:28Which is odd, considering you're surrounded by an ocean

0:30:28 > 0:30:31that can be really quite dangerous at times.

0:30:31 > 0:30:34But I think everyone looks out for each other.

0:30:34 > 0:30:36CHILDREN SING

0:30:37 > 0:30:41'As the wind dies down, the waves get cleaner.

0:30:42 > 0:30:44'Surf's up.

0:30:46 > 0:30:49'The ocean is the lifeblood of Owarigi

0:30:49 > 0:30:51'but it's not just a supermarket,

0:30:51 > 0:30:53'it's a playground too.

0:30:54 > 0:30:56'These kids are resourceful.

0:30:56 > 0:30:59'They make their own boards from palm trees.'

0:31:02 > 0:31:04It's funny, I think just being with Sosimo and Moses,

0:31:04 > 0:31:07you see how graceful they are underwater,

0:31:07 > 0:31:11and these kids have got this sort of elegance in the sea as well.

0:31:13 > 0:31:14Go for it.

0:31:18 > 0:31:20Nice one... Whoa! Good work.

0:31:20 > 0:31:23'From a young age, this tribe learn how to cope

0:31:23 > 0:31:25'with the sea's many dangers.

0:31:25 > 0:31:28'But once again, I get caught out.'

0:31:28 > 0:31:29Right, here comes a biggie.

0:31:31 > 0:31:33Ooh!

0:31:35 > 0:31:37Ow!

0:31:37 > 0:31:39Ow, ow, ow!

0:31:39 > 0:31:42Right, I'm bleeding.

0:31:42 > 0:31:43I'm going.

0:31:46 > 0:31:49'The corals of this tropical paradise

0:31:49 > 0:31:51'seem more vicious than the sharks.'

0:31:53 > 0:31:55Right.

0:31:55 > 0:31:57My knee is bleeding quite profusely.

0:31:57 > 0:32:00I'd better get that seen to, actually.

0:32:00 > 0:32:01They'll have to bandage that up.

0:32:04 > 0:32:08'For local people, the real danger is the lack of fish.

0:32:13 > 0:32:17'The next day, I ask Sosimo, Moses and his father Joseph

0:32:17 > 0:32:20'about the changes they've seen here.'

0:32:38 > 0:32:41And what changes have you seen over your lifetime?

0:32:48 > 0:32:52And, Moses, what hopes do you have for your children on the island?

0:33:04 > 0:33:08Do you think people on the island understand the balance of nature

0:33:08 > 0:33:10and the roles that different sea creatures play

0:33:10 > 0:33:13in keeping a healthy ecosystem?

0:33:27 > 0:33:31That's not just here. Where I come from,

0:33:31 > 0:33:35people are unaware of the sort of natural mechanisms in the sea.

0:33:55 > 0:34:00'The decline in fish is a growing problem for the islanders.

0:34:00 > 0:34:04'Could the decreasing shark population be a factor?

0:34:05 > 0:34:08'The reef is a delicately balanced ecosystem.

0:34:08 > 0:34:12'Sharks control the numbers of smaller predators

0:34:12 > 0:34:14'that eat fish eggs and fry.

0:34:14 > 0:34:18'Fewer of these young fish survive without sharks.

0:34:21 > 0:34:23'If the number of fish continues to drop,

0:34:23 > 0:34:27'Owarigi's human population won't be sustainable.

0:34:31 > 0:34:36'A tragedy for this community and their unique way of life.

0:34:42 > 0:34:44'Hoping to be reassured,

0:34:44 > 0:34:47'we collect the underwater cameras and call the village together

0:34:47 > 0:34:49'to see if we've found any sharks.'

0:34:52 > 0:34:56I have got the video clip from the underwater rig here

0:34:56 > 0:34:59and I want to show everyone what we've got.

0:35:00 > 0:35:01Oh, look at that!

0:35:01 > 0:35:03A hawksbill turtle.

0:35:05 > 0:35:07It's amazing.

0:35:07 > 0:35:08So slow and graceful.

0:35:18 > 0:35:19Goodness!

0:35:20 > 0:35:22What do you call it?

0:35:22 > 0:35:23Qauroa.

0:35:24 > 0:35:26What a weird-looking fish.

0:35:29 > 0:35:32Ooh, sneaking in, a Moray eel. Look at that!

0:35:38 > 0:35:40Yeah, he's enjoying that.

0:35:41 > 0:35:45'No sharks so far, but other creatures intrigue the islanders.'

0:35:48 > 0:35:50Oh, wow!

0:35:51 > 0:35:52What do you call dolphins?

0:36:01 > 0:36:04Me too, me too.

0:36:05 > 0:36:07And as intelligent as them.

0:36:07 > 0:36:09I suppose, Moses, for us,

0:36:09 > 0:36:12because we've spent quite a lot of time diving,

0:36:12 > 0:36:15so many people here never see any of these fish,

0:36:15 > 0:36:19so it's nice to be able to show them some of the things that we've seen.

0:36:26 > 0:36:29'Seeing all this marine life is wonderful,

0:36:29 > 0:36:32'but I hoped there would be more sharks.

0:36:34 > 0:36:37'Then I hear news from the other side of Owarigi

0:36:37 > 0:36:40'that might explain their elusiveness.'

0:36:41 > 0:36:44I found out that somebody has caught a shark

0:36:44 > 0:36:46down at this end of the island.

0:36:49 > 0:36:50Hello.

0:36:50 > 0:36:52I'm Gordon.

0:36:53 > 0:36:55I'm Gordon. What's your name?

0:36:57 > 0:36:59Did you just catch it today?

0:37:00 > 0:37:02So what will you do with it now?

0:37:09 > 0:37:12And how much would you get for all four fins from this shark?

0:37:18 > 0:37:20500 Solomon dollars.

0:37:21 > 0:37:24'That's roughly £5 sterling for each shark.

0:37:24 > 0:37:28'A rare source of cash in this subsistence economy.'

0:37:28 > 0:37:32So when you sell those fins, what do you do with that cash?

0:37:40 > 0:37:42Can I see those fins? So you dry them?

0:37:44 > 0:37:46Eight.

0:37:46 > 0:37:48So the fins from two sharks.

0:37:49 > 0:37:52Have people always killed sharks in this area?

0:38:00 > 0:38:02I'll give you these back.

0:38:02 > 0:38:05Right, I'll leave you gentlemen. Good to meet you.

0:38:07 > 0:38:09See you later.

0:38:12 > 0:38:17'Despite being so remote, the market for shark fins is having an impact

0:38:17 > 0:38:19'even here.

0:38:21 > 0:38:26'Fins from Owarigi are sold in the capital city, Honiara,

0:38:26 > 0:38:29'joining the global trade for shark fin soup.

0:38:33 > 0:38:38'Worldwide, over 100 million sharks are killed each year.

0:38:38 > 0:38:42'That's more than 11,000 every hour.

0:38:47 > 0:38:51'Their decline is transforming ocean ecosystems.

0:38:52 > 0:38:54'We aren't aware of the extent of this damage

0:38:54 > 0:38:57'because we don't see what's happening underwater.

0:38:59 > 0:39:03'But these islanders are deeply aware of these changes.

0:39:04 > 0:39:07'Their survival depends on their reef.

0:39:09 > 0:39:13'My feelings about sharks have changed since I arrived here.

0:39:14 > 0:39:16'First, I was scared of them.

0:39:16 > 0:39:18'But seeing how endangered they are,

0:39:18 > 0:39:21'now I feel sorry for them.

0:39:23 > 0:39:26'I want to get a closer look at these predators,

0:39:26 > 0:39:30'but before I can do that, I need to catch some fish for the family.

0:39:33 > 0:39:36'Having failed at spear fishing,

0:39:36 > 0:39:39'Moses thinks I might have more luck with an unusual technique,

0:39:39 > 0:39:42'unique to this part of the world.

0:39:43 > 0:39:47'He takes me to the local expert, Uncle Morris.'

0:39:55 > 0:39:57Hi, Morris.

0:39:57 > 0:39:59I'm Gordon. Good to meet you.

0:40:00 > 0:40:03'But instead of heading to the sea,

0:40:03 > 0:40:05'Morris takes me into the forest.'

0:40:12 > 0:40:14OK, OK.

0:40:14 > 0:40:15Like this?

0:40:15 > 0:40:19Wow, this is quite satisfying in a strange way.

0:40:20 > 0:40:21Right.

0:40:23 > 0:40:26'Back in the village, we remove the web.

0:40:27 > 0:40:31'This isn't like any fishing I've done before.

0:40:34 > 0:40:37'This web is from an orb-weaver spider.

0:40:37 > 0:40:38'It's super strong.'

0:40:50 > 0:40:54'This lure is for a fish that can't be caught with hooks.'

0:40:54 > 0:40:58The fish's little teeth are going to get snagged in the spider silk.

0:40:58 > 0:41:02I am still at a complete loss as to when the kite comes into this.

0:41:04 > 0:41:06This one?

0:41:16 > 0:41:18I really hope this works, Morris.

0:41:19 > 0:41:22I need to catch a fish, by hook or by crook.

0:41:22 > 0:41:23Or by kite.

0:41:34 > 0:41:37Oh, beautiful! Look at that!

0:41:37 > 0:41:38Up, up and away!

0:41:41 > 0:41:42Fabulous.

0:41:43 > 0:41:46So put them over the side?

0:41:46 > 0:41:47OK.

0:41:47 > 0:41:49There goes our spider webs.

0:42:06 > 0:42:09Nice. Just like being a kid again.

0:42:10 > 0:42:13Oh, there you go, the lure's out of the water.

0:42:13 > 0:42:15We want it to just dip on the surface.

0:42:15 > 0:42:19The lure is effectively imitating an insect,

0:42:19 > 0:42:21just kissing the surface of the water.

0:42:28 > 0:42:31Every method and way of catching fish

0:42:31 > 0:42:35is very labour-intensive or requires a lot of time.

0:42:35 > 0:42:39I was thinking that the kite fishing

0:42:39 > 0:42:42was going to be the silver bullet to my bad luck,

0:42:42 > 0:42:46but, erm, it hasn't proved to be so far.

0:42:48 > 0:42:51The kite is in the air, it's quite high up.

0:42:51 > 0:42:53Maybe kind of... ooh, 25 metres.

0:42:53 > 0:42:55MORRIS CALLS

0:42:55 > 0:42:57You've got one?

0:42:58 > 0:43:00Oh, yes! Yes!

0:43:01 > 0:43:02Beauty!

0:43:12 > 0:43:15I do not believe that.

0:43:23 > 0:43:25Well, I never.

0:43:25 > 0:43:27That is incredible.

0:43:27 > 0:43:29The needle fish.

0:43:29 > 0:43:32You can see the teeth - lots of them, very sort of sharp,

0:43:32 > 0:43:35needle-like, and they easily get caught in the, erm...

0:43:35 > 0:43:37..in the web lure.

0:43:37 > 0:43:40My bad luck is over. Well done.

0:43:41 > 0:43:45'While the fish are biting, Morris reels in another one.

0:43:45 > 0:43:49'Triumphant, we head back to shore.'

0:43:58 > 0:43:59Hello!

0:44:05 > 0:44:08Thank you. Thank you.

0:44:08 > 0:44:10But he is the man.

0:44:11 > 0:44:12Nice.

0:44:12 > 0:44:14One big one, one small one.

0:44:15 > 0:44:17Thank you, Morris.

0:44:17 > 0:44:19That's really so, so impressive.

0:44:19 > 0:44:22I can't actually quite believe it.

0:44:23 > 0:44:26Who would have thought that the most unlikely,

0:44:26 > 0:44:28unconventional method of catching a fish

0:44:28 > 0:44:31was going to be the thing that was actually most productive?

0:44:31 > 0:44:33Web and wind.

0:44:33 > 0:44:34Amazing.

0:44:42 > 0:44:45'I might not have mastered spear fishing,

0:44:45 > 0:44:49'but I feel relieved that finally I've brought something back to eat.'

0:45:04 > 0:45:07I've just learned another thing. How to cut coconut properly.

0:45:14 > 0:45:16Oh, look at that.

0:45:24 > 0:45:28It's a taste of Owarigi. Locally grown, locally caught.

0:45:28 > 0:45:29Locally eaten.

0:45:29 > 0:45:33It is a perfect way to end the day with the boys.

0:45:49 > 0:45:53That's why I came to the Solomon Islands, to see them,

0:45:53 > 0:45:57and I'm looking forward to the next stage of my journey.

0:45:59 > 0:46:01'Now I'm more confident in the ocean,

0:46:01 > 0:46:05'Moses and Sosimo want me to swim with sharks.

0:46:05 > 0:46:08'There's a protected reef on another island

0:46:08 > 0:46:10'rumoured to be teeming with them.

0:46:13 > 0:46:18'But before we leave, an offering is made to the shark spirit, Wairowo,

0:46:18 > 0:46:20'to keep me safe.'

0:46:30 > 0:46:33So the protection from Wairowo, the spirit shark,

0:46:33 > 0:46:35will that last for my lifetime?

0:46:41 > 0:46:43Thank you, Willie. Thank you.

0:46:47 > 0:46:50'With the ritual complete,

0:46:50 > 0:46:52'we set off to the distant reef.

0:47:00 > 0:47:03'Here, fishing has been banned for 30 years,

0:47:03 > 0:47:06'so there should be lots of life.

0:47:12 > 0:47:17'It's not long before we see large shapes lurking in the water.'

0:47:17 > 0:47:19You can actually see sharks down there.

0:47:19 > 0:47:21Can you see the shark?

0:47:21 > 0:47:24There's one there. Can you see?

0:47:25 > 0:47:28So, shall we all go in at the same time?

0:47:31 > 0:47:33'The men seem to be testing me.'

0:47:41 > 0:47:46Mask, snorkel, I have my fins, we have some sharks,

0:47:46 > 0:47:49I have two of the best men in the business with me.

0:47:58 > 0:48:00One, two, three...

0:48:15 > 0:48:19'Diving down, knowing there are sharks all around...

0:48:20 > 0:48:22'..I feel my fear returning.

0:48:28 > 0:48:31'I struggle to stay calm.

0:48:39 > 0:48:43'I try to remember that these sharks are more interested in fish

0:48:43 > 0:48:45'than in me.

0:48:52 > 0:48:56'It feels incredible to be down here,

0:48:56 > 0:48:58'but I'm still nervous.

0:49:05 > 0:49:08'As Sosimo and Moses join me,

0:49:08 > 0:49:12'my fear is replaced by a deep emotional connection to the ocean...

0:49:13 > 0:49:16'..and to these remarkable men.'

0:49:30 > 0:49:34'This protected reef is completely different from Owarigi.

0:49:34 > 0:49:37'It's teeming with fish and sharks.

0:49:41 > 0:49:43'A balanced ecosystem.'

0:49:47 > 0:49:51I expected my heart to be racing and to be panicked,

0:49:51 > 0:49:56but actually there's something very serene about it.

0:49:57 > 0:49:59Like a religious experience.

0:50:18 > 0:50:21There's something quite special and intimate

0:50:21 > 0:50:24about being underwater and seeing a shark.

0:50:24 > 0:50:27It's almost like a connection.

0:50:27 > 0:50:31It's nothing like I've ever had before.

0:50:31 > 0:50:32I feel moved.

0:50:39 > 0:50:42Right, I'm going back down. I don't know about you, Sosimo.

0:50:49 > 0:50:52'When I first arrived in the Solomon Islands,

0:50:52 > 0:50:55'I was terrified of the ocean because of sharks.

0:50:55 > 0:50:58'Now I'm in awe of them.

0:51:00 > 0:51:02'Captivated by their beauty.

0:51:04 > 0:51:07'Moses and Sosimo have transformed my attitude

0:51:07 > 0:51:11'to these prehistoric and endangered predators.

0:51:12 > 0:51:17'I'm not the only one who's been inspired by what we've seen here.'

0:51:45 > 0:51:48I'm only able to see these sharks

0:51:48 > 0:51:51because of everything you both have taught me,

0:51:51 > 0:51:53so thank you.

0:51:58 > 0:52:00Thank you, sharks.

0:52:01 > 0:52:05'Learning how to share the water with these misunderstood animals

0:52:05 > 0:52:09'has replaced my irrational fear with wonder.

0:52:13 > 0:52:16'It's allowed me to fall in love with the ocean,

0:52:16 > 0:52:20'and it's reminded the men how their reef once looked.'

0:52:22 > 0:52:25THEY SING

0:52:31 > 0:52:33'On Owarigi,

0:52:33 > 0:52:36'the villagers are preparing a goodbye celebration for me.

0:52:37 > 0:52:40'But first, Moses, Sosimo and Joseph

0:52:40 > 0:52:43'want me to witness an important decision.'

0:52:47 > 0:52:49OK.

0:52:50 > 0:52:54I'm being taken to a meeting with all of the chiefs on the island.

0:52:54 > 0:52:56I haven't a clue what it's about.

0:52:59 > 0:53:02Morning, morning, morning.

0:53:02 > 0:53:03Morning, chiefs.

0:53:04 > 0:53:07'The chiefs are the eldest males of each family,

0:53:07 > 0:53:10'responsible for safeguarding the island's future.'

0:54:04 > 0:54:10'By protecting sharks, their ecosystem will produce more fish.'

0:54:17 > 0:54:18Thank you very much.

0:54:19 > 0:54:23'It's incredible news that the elders have decided to ban

0:54:23 > 0:54:25'all shark finning on the island.'

0:54:28 > 0:54:30That is, erm, quite something.

0:54:30 > 0:54:33Not at all what I was expecting.

0:54:33 > 0:54:35I mean, it's...

0:54:35 > 0:54:37This is a global problem.

0:54:37 > 0:54:42But I think if everyone just, sort of, does what they can,

0:54:42 > 0:54:44it can make a difference.

0:54:44 > 0:54:48And it is seen in areas where small parts of the ocean

0:54:48 > 0:54:51have been protected, the results that that can have.

0:54:51 > 0:54:55This is a kind of, sort of, shift that there needs to take place,

0:54:55 > 0:54:58not just on an island like Owarigi,

0:54:58 > 0:55:01this is a shift that has to take place around the world, you know,

0:55:01 > 0:55:06as a global community - start valuing the natural world more,

0:55:06 > 0:55:08on land and in the sea.

0:55:11 > 0:55:15'The celebration marks a new beginning for the island.

0:55:15 > 0:55:17'I'll be sad to leave.'

0:55:28 > 0:55:30THEY SING

0:55:31 > 0:55:34We're in luck because the shark dance is one of my best dances.

0:56:03 > 0:56:06This is the least I've felt like a shark in all my life.

0:56:10 > 0:56:13'When the dancing ends, it's time for me to say goodbye.

0:56:14 > 0:56:18'I certainly wasn't expecting such a big send-off.'

0:56:19 > 0:56:22This is the most impressive goodbye ever.

0:56:22 > 0:56:24I'll start with you. Goodbye.

0:56:24 > 0:56:26Thank you. Bye.

0:56:26 > 0:56:29'It looks like the entire village is here.'

0:56:29 > 0:56:31Thank you. Thank you.

0:56:31 > 0:56:33Thank you very much.

0:56:33 > 0:56:35Now the boys' section.

0:56:35 > 0:56:38Thank you very much. Goodbye.

0:56:38 > 0:56:39Thank you very much.

0:56:39 > 0:56:42Joseph, thank you very much. It's been a real pleasure.

0:56:42 > 0:56:43Thank you.

0:56:43 > 0:56:46The last guy is the guy with the funky hair.

0:56:46 > 0:56:48Take it easy.

0:57:18 > 0:57:19Thank you.

0:57:20 > 0:57:22Thank you very much.

0:57:23 > 0:57:26Take care. Thank you for everything. It's been incredible.

0:57:26 > 0:57:28I don't want to leave.

0:57:30 > 0:57:33'The people of Owarigi have come together

0:57:33 > 0:57:36'to play their part in protecting the sea.

0:57:37 > 0:57:39'Can we say the same?

0:57:42 > 0:57:46'The fate of these kind and remarkable people

0:57:46 > 0:57:49'and of every creature in the ocean

0:57:49 > 0:57:53'lies in all our hands.'

0:57:53 > 0:57:57I think the thing that gives me the most hope for the future,

0:57:57 > 0:58:00the future of the people of this incredible island,

0:58:00 > 0:58:05is the fact that they deeply care about their culture,

0:58:05 > 0:58:06their traditions,

0:58:06 > 0:58:11but, most importantly, they care deeply about the ocean

0:58:11 > 0:58:14and the creatures that live beneath the surface.

0:58:14 > 0:58:19And I think so long as the people that live here feel that way...

0:58:20 > 0:58:22..there's hope.