0:00:02 > 0:00:07I have crossed the Atlantic to ride the railroads of North America
0:00:07 > 0:00:09with my reliable Appleton's guide.
0:00:12 > 0:00:14Published in the late 19th century,
0:00:14 > 0:00:18my Appleton's General Guide to North America will direct me
0:00:18 > 0:00:21to all that's novel, beautiful,
0:00:21 > 0:00:26memorable and striking in the United States.
0:00:26 > 0:00:28THEY SHOUT
0:00:28 > 0:00:30As I journey across this vast continent,
0:00:30 > 0:00:35I'll discover how pioneers and cowboys conquered the West
0:00:35 > 0:00:39and how the railroads tied this nation together,
0:00:39 > 0:00:42helping to create the global superstate of today.
0:01:12 > 0:01:14My rail journey across America's Midwest
0:01:14 > 0:01:16has brought me to Lake Michigan.
0:01:16 > 0:01:18At the time of my Appleton's guide,
0:01:18 > 0:01:23the United States was at the forefront of a global second Industrial Revolution
0:01:23 > 0:01:28featuring steel, chemicals and heavy engineering.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32Railroads and steamships tied the markets of the world together.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34The cities of the Great Lakes
0:01:34 > 0:01:37supplied the ingredients for success -
0:01:37 > 0:01:41a transport hub, innovation and manual labour.
0:01:47 > 0:01:51I started my journey in Minnesota, in the Twin Cities, and travelled
0:01:51 > 0:01:53alongside the Mississippi River
0:01:53 > 0:01:57before crossing into Wisconsin at La Crosse.
0:01:57 > 0:02:02Now I'm bound for the shores of Lake Michigan at Milwaukee,
0:02:02 > 0:02:05from where I'll turn south to the Windy City, Chicago,
0:02:05 > 0:02:10before travelling the length of Illinois, calling at Centralia.
0:02:10 > 0:02:12I'll then rejoin the Mississippi
0:02:12 > 0:02:14before ending in Memphis, Tennessee.
0:02:16 > 0:02:19Today, I'll make my way to explore Wisconsin's largest city -
0:02:19 > 0:02:21Milwaukee.
0:02:21 > 0:02:25From there, I'll head south, stopping at Racine,
0:02:25 > 0:02:29before arriving in this nation's railway hub - Chicago.
0:02:29 > 0:02:34On my travels, I taste the freedom of the American open road...
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- Ready to ride?- I'm ready to ride.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43..strike out in America's national game...
0:02:43 > 0:02:46Here we go! You're looking like a natural already!
0:02:47 > 0:02:49I make a few announcements...
0:02:49 > 0:02:52258, your train's never late.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56258, your train's never late.
0:02:56 > 0:02:58And I'm blown away by the Windy City.
0:02:58 > 0:03:00Chicago at sunset.
0:03:00 > 0:03:04Surely one of the world's most stunning cities.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15By the time of my Appleton's,
0:03:15 > 0:03:20the railways had already helped to establish communities in the Midwest.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24Now these communities were transforming America.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28My first stop will be Milwaukee, which Appleton's tells me
0:03:28 > 0:03:31is the commercial capital of Wisconsin and next to Chicago,
0:03:31 > 0:03:33the largest city in the Northwest,
0:03:33 > 0:03:38situated on the west shore of the lake at the mouth of the Milwaukee River.
0:03:38 > 0:03:42As railroads linked up with waterways,
0:03:42 > 0:03:47technology supplied jobs for this city of motivated immigrants.
0:03:49 > 0:03:52- MAN OVER PA:- The entire crew would like to thank you all very much
0:03:52 > 0:03:53for travelling with us.
0:03:53 > 0:03:55Your final stop - downtown Milwaukee.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03The railroad first reached Milwaukee in 1851.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05I enjoyed the ride, thank you so much.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07- Thank you.- Bye-bye.- Bye.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17But my Appleton's reminds readers that this city
0:04:17 > 0:04:18is also the best harbour
0:04:18 > 0:04:21on the south or west shore of Lake Michigan,
0:04:21 > 0:04:24the third largest of America's Great Lakes.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36There is no hope of seeing across Lake Michigan
0:04:36 > 0:04:40to the opposite shore - it is far too vast.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44To Europeans like me, these Great Lakes seem like seas,
0:04:44 > 0:04:48and they are an important part of the making of America.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51These enormous bodies of water, joined together,
0:04:51 > 0:04:56enabled people and goods to travel vast distances through them in
0:04:56 > 0:04:58the days before the railroads.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12The Milwaukee that greeted the Appleton's traveller
0:05:12 > 0:05:14had a distinctive appearance.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20Apparently, "the peculiar cream colour of the Milwaukee brick gives
0:05:20 > 0:05:23"the city a unique and pretty appearance
0:05:23 > 0:05:28"and has earned for it the name the Cream City of the Lakes."
0:05:31 > 0:05:34Despite Milwaukee's genteel architecture,
0:05:34 > 0:05:38at the time of my guidebook, it was a proudly blue-collar city.
0:05:40 > 0:05:43Appleton's tells me that "manufactures here are extensive
0:05:43 > 0:05:49"and embraced pig iron, iron castings, machinery and wheels."
0:05:49 > 0:05:51Give me a pair of wheels!
0:05:57 > 0:06:00A few decades after my guidebook was published,
0:06:00 > 0:06:06Milwaukee's mechanical ingenuity gave birth to an American icon.
0:06:06 > 0:06:11The motorcycle manufacturer Harley-Davidson was founded here
0:06:11 > 0:06:15and remains a symbol of the United States's freewheeling,
0:06:15 > 0:06:16pioneer spirit.
0:06:21 > 0:06:23- Hello, Bill.- Hello, Michael.
0:06:23 > 0:06:26- How are you? - What a wonderful machine!
0:06:26 > 0:06:27Thank you so much.
0:06:27 > 0:06:32So, you are Bill Davidson, as in Harley-Davidson.
0:06:32 > 0:06:33What's the connection?
0:06:33 > 0:06:38Well, my great-grandfather was one of the original founders of the company,
0:06:38 > 0:06:43William A Davidson was his name, and we are literally within...
0:06:43 > 0:06:47several yards of where that original factory shed was,
0:06:47 > 0:06:51and that was in the back yard of my great-great-grandparents.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55Did motorbikes exist when Harley and Davidson got going?
0:06:55 > 0:06:57Yes. There were motorcycles.
0:06:57 > 0:07:02In the late 1800s, there was actually a steam-powered motorcycle.
0:07:02 > 0:07:04Quite a contraption.
0:07:04 > 0:07:08There were a lot of different people working in this arena of
0:07:08 > 0:07:11trying to develop a motorcycle.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17Childhood friends William S Harley and Arthur Davidson
0:07:17 > 0:07:20dreamed of building a winning design.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23They enlisted the help of Arthur's older brothers,
0:07:23 > 0:07:26who had experience in Milwaukee's railroad workshops.
0:07:26 > 0:07:31And, in 1903, they rolled serial number one out of that shed.
0:07:31 > 0:07:33Given that there was so much competition,
0:07:33 > 0:07:36how did Harley and Davidson get their break, do you think?
0:07:36 > 0:07:39Very early on, they created a unique look,
0:07:39 > 0:07:42the unique sound and they created a unique feel.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45You know, it's a magnet, it pulls you in.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48When you see a Harley, people actually say,
0:07:48 > 0:07:49even if they don't ride,
0:07:49 > 0:07:52they will say, "Nice Harley!"
0:07:52 > 0:07:55I wonder if it's something to do with the shape of your continent.
0:07:55 > 0:07:57It is vast.
0:07:57 > 0:08:00Is that part of it? It's the invitation to the Easy Rider.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05You know, it might be that Wild West feeling,
0:08:05 > 0:08:07that little bit of rebel in all of us, right?
0:08:07 > 0:08:09Bill, happy riding to you.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11Thank you so much. It was a pleasure.
0:08:15 > 0:08:19Today, there are plenty of magnificent machines on display
0:08:19 > 0:08:23at one of Milwaukee's regular biker gatherings.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36- Hello, ma'am.- Hi, sir.- Would you mind switching on the engine for me?
0:08:36 > 0:08:38Let me hear the sound of your bike.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42ENGINE TURNS ON
0:08:44 > 0:08:46I can't hear it!
0:08:46 > 0:08:47ENGINE ROARS
0:08:49 > 0:08:50I heard it.
0:08:50 > 0:08:52Thank you very much.
0:08:53 > 0:08:55Where do you ride your bike to?
0:08:55 > 0:08:58Actually, I came from Saudi Arabia.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00- No!- Yeah.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03Do you feel a companionship with other Harley riders?
0:09:03 > 0:09:05- Yeah, sure.- Why?
0:09:06 > 0:09:11Because we are a biker relationship between ourselves.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14Biker is always brotherhood, you can't buy it.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- Enjoy your biking.- Thank you.
0:09:18 > 0:09:21- Hey! I love them pants you've got on!- Oh!
0:09:21 > 0:09:23You're so sweet.
0:09:23 > 0:09:24How nice to see you.
0:09:24 > 0:09:27I'd get away with those pants. I like that.
0:09:27 > 0:09:30- And who's this you've got on the back here?- This is my mini me.
0:09:30 > 0:09:34- Your mini me?- Yeah, she has travelled the 48 states with me.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37- You've been through 48 states? - In 27 days.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- So, tell me, what's it all about? - You feel free.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44It is like a therapy for me.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48The moment I got on the bike, it was like, whoa!
0:09:48 > 0:09:49You know?
0:09:49 > 0:09:52It's just... It's therapeutic, truly.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55Have...? Do you ride motorcycles? I can ride you here.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- You could?- I could. So, you know what it is to ride on this seat?
0:09:59 > 0:10:01Do you know what it's called?
0:10:01 > 0:10:05- Pillion?- No, it's called riding bitch.
0:10:05 > 0:10:08So, you'll be riding as my bitch!
0:10:09 > 0:10:11It's a privilege.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15That's right, it's definitely a privilege!
0:10:15 > 0:10:18You'll be pleased to hear that I don't have to leather up.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20- Ready to ride? - I'm ready to ride.- OK.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51I have joined a brotherhood and a sisterhood of people
0:10:51 > 0:10:53linked by their choice of motorbike.
0:11:07 > 0:11:09Back in 1879,
0:11:09 > 0:11:13Milwaukee was one of the powerhouses of America's Industrial Revolution.
0:11:14 > 0:11:19It was the plentiful immigrant workforce that enabled the United States
0:11:19 > 0:11:22to lead the world in manufacturing.
0:11:22 > 0:11:24As my guidebook tells me,
0:11:24 > 0:11:29"Milwaukee's population growth has been very rapid," and,
0:11:29 > 0:11:33in this downtown district, there is evidence of one group of newcomers.
0:11:34 > 0:11:39Appleton's tells me that "Germans constitute nearly half the population."
0:11:39 > 0:11:43Their influence is everywhere - breweries, beer saloons, gast haus,
0:11:43 > 0:11:45music halls and restaurants.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49One hears German spoken as often as English,
0:11:49 > 0:11:51but what ideas did they bring?
0:11:52 > 0:11:55I'm making my way to Turner Hall,
0:11:55 > 0:12:00which was a focal point for Milwaukee's 19th-century German community.
0:12:00 > 0:12:02History professor Aims McGuinness
0:12:02 > 0:12:05has been a so-called Turner for eight years.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08It's great to be here. It's an...intriguingly historic building.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10I mean, for example, what's that?
0:12:10 > 0:12:14This is a monument to members of the Turners who died fighting for
0:12:14 > 0:12:17the union during the Civil War in the United States.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21The centrepiece of this beautiful building is its imposing ballroom.
0:12:24 > 0:12:29Aims, there is a wonderful faded grandeur to the hall.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31What have been its uses over the years?
0:12:31 > 0:12:34This was a place to have political debates, to read books,
0:12:34 > 0:12:38to listen to a lecture, to listen to Beethoven
0:12:38 > 0:12:42and also to hoist a beer and to build your muscular strength.
0:12:42 > 0:12:46All those things went together for the Turners and, for us, they still do.
0:12:46 > 0:12:47What was the origin of the Turners?
0:12:47 > 0:12:49The Turners originated in Prussia,
0:12:49 > 0:12:51in what's now Germany, in the early 1800s.
0:12:51 > 0:12:53The founding principles were
0:12:53 > 0:12:55the notions of a sound mind and sound body.
0:12:55 > 0:12:57Founder Friedrich Ludwig Jahn
0:12:57 > 0:13:01named his movement after the physical exercises
0:13:01 > 0:13:03he devised that he called Turnen.
0:13:03 > 0:13:07Today, this word still means gymnastics in German,
0:13:07 > 0:13:10but Turnerism went far beyond sport.
0:13:10 > 0:13:12In order to become a Turner,
0:13:12 > 0:13:14one must commit oneself to the cause of liberty
0:13:14 > 0:13:16and to oppose tyranny in all its forms.
0:13:16 > 0:13:18In Europe, the principal form of tyranny
0:13:18 > 0:13:21to which they imposed themselves was monarchy.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23When they came to the United States,
0:13:23 > 0:13:27it was the institution of slavery that they opposed.
0:13:27 > 0:13:29Many Turners fled Prussia for America
0:13:29 > 0:13:34after participating in a failed revolution in 1848.
0:13:34 > 0:13:38Soon, Turners defended their new nation's founding principle
0:13:38 > 0:13:42of liberty with their lives, marching into battle
0:13:42 > 0:13:45with the Union Army in the American Civil War.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48Do you think then that the Civil War monument that we just saw
0:13:48 > 0:13:51had a real significance in demonstrating their patriotism?
0:13:51 > 0:13:53Oh, I think absolutely.
0:13:53 > 0:13:57In some ways, a monument created in the early 20th century in German
0:13:57 > 0:14:01commemorating people who had sacrificed their lives for freedom
0:14:01 > 0:14:04in the United States wasn't so much a provocation, and the message is,
0:14:04 > 0:14:08"Look, one does not need to speak English at all times in order to be a patriotic American,
0:14:08 > 0:14:11"one can speak German as well."
0:14:11 > 0:14:14And who will tell these people that they are not fully patriotic?
0:14:14 > 0:14:17They've sacrificed their lives for the nation.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22German influence on the modern United States
0:14:22 > 0:14:25was suppressed during two world wars,
0:14:25 > 0:14:30but the principle of sound body, sound mind lives on here.
0:14:30 > 0:14:33Stretch your legs as far as you can.
0:14:33 > 0:14:34Try and reach your ankles.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36What?!
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- How do you do that? - Well, I'm a woman.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44I can only hope that my tight hamstrings
0:14:44 > 0:14:47aren't a sign of an inflexible intellect
0:14:47 > 0:14:50as I join the weekly Ladies Auxiliary exercise class
0:14:50 > 0:14:52under the guidance of Nora.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58Arms over your head.
0:15:00 > 0:15:02Up.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04MICHAEL GROANS
0:15:04 > 0:15:06Try to keep your elbows straight.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09MICHAEL GROANS
0:15:09 > 0:15:11Bend...and down.
0:15:11 > 0:15:14These ladies are giving me an enormous work-out.
0:15:16 > 0:15:20OK. Now get up any way you can.
0:15:22 > 0:15:23Whoo!
0:15:35 > 0:15:40In the 1880s, Milwaukee was known as the nation's watering hole.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43German immigrants brought with them a taste for beer
0:15:43 > 0:15:48and my Appleton's tells me "the breweries are large and numerous."
0:15:48 > 0:15:54Pints of Pilsner were the perfect accompaniment to another German gift to Milwaukee - bowling.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59I'm calling in at Holler House bowling alley,
0:15:59 > 0:16:01one of the oldest in the country,
0:16:01 > 0:16:06run for the past 62 years by the redoubtable Marcy.
0:16:06 > 0:16:08- Hello!- Hi.
0:16:08 > 0:16:10Marcy, do you serve beer here?
0:16:10 > 0:16:11- Do I serve beer?- Yeah.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- Well, what the hell do you think I'm here for?- Exactly!
0:16:14 > 0:16:16Could I have a Milwaukee beer, please?
0:16:16 > 0:16:18Sure. There you go.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20- You bowl?- I used to.
0:16:20 > 0:16:24I bowled until I was 70 years old, but now I'm 90.
0:16:24 > 0:16:25- You are 90?- Yeah.
0:16:25 > 0:16:29Wow! Are you going to show me the basics of how to bowl?
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- I show you how to bowl? - Yeah, sure.- Sure, what the hell?
0:16:34 > 0:16:38American ten-pin bowling evolved from traditional European skittles.
0:16:38 > 0:16:40What kind of fingers have you got?
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- Erm...stubby ones. - This should fit you.
0:16:44 > 0:16:45- OK.- OK.
0:16:45 > 0:16:47Like that, yeah? Now what?
0:16:47 > 0:16:50Now, see that middle arrow?
0:16:50 > 0:16:52- Yeah.- Throw it towards that one.
0:16:55 > 0:16:56Do it for the team, Mike!
0:16:56 > 0:16:59CHEERS OF ENCOURAGEMENT
0:17:06 > 0:17:07Whoa!
0:17:19 > 0:17:22CHEERING
0:17:23 > 0:17:25CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
0:17:49 > 0:17:51Hello.
0:17:52 > 0:17:5819th-century Milwaukee might seem to have been a macho kind of place,
0:17:58 > 0:18:00but it wasn't all beer,
0:18:00 > 0:18:03bowling and bikers at the time of my Appleton's guide.
0:18:03 > 0:18:05While I'm in the city,
0:18:05 > 0:18:07I want to look into a small appliance
0:18:07 > 0:18:11that altered forever both the office and the home -
0:18:11 > 0:18:17a certain inventive Milwaukee type was key to the development.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27I've come to the Milwaukee Public Museum to track down
0:18:27 > 0:18:29the history of the typewriter.
0:18:33 > 0:18:36In street scenes that would have been familiar to an Appleton's traveller,
0:18:36 > 0:18:40I'm meeting curator Al Muchka.
0:18:40 > 0:18:42- Very good to see you. - Good to see you, too.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45Why is Milwaukee important in the development of the typewriter?
0:18:45 > 0:18:49Well, Milwaukee is important because of Christopher Latham Sholes.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53He was one of our local residents, he was an inventor, a newspaperman,
0:18:53 > 0:18:59and he was working on an addressing device for his newspapers,
0:18:59 > 0:19:03first by looking at how to transmit the action
0:19:03 > 0:19:06of the finger to a letter on the page -
0:19:06 > 0:19:08and we can take a look at that right here.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13That is an extraordinary thing because, to me,
0:19:13 > 0:19:16it resembles a piano much more than it does a typewriter.
0:19:16 > 0:19:18Well, this is one of the early models.
0:19:18 > 0:19:20We believe this is about 1868.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24The idea was that you would strike a key, like a piano,
0:19:24 > 0:19:26and it would actuate across these bars,
0:19:26 > 0:19:32which were then tied to a tower with rods and actuators
0:19:32 > 0:19:36that would actually bring the type piece up to strike the paper.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38Incredibly inventive.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42But now, this suddenly begins to look like a typewriter.
0:19:42 > 0:19:46- What is this?- This is an 1870s version of the Sholes typewriter.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49So what we have here is a refinement.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51The biggest thing here is, by this time,
0:19:51 > 0:19:53they actually developed the Qwerty keyboard
0:19:53 > 0:19:55that we are familiar with today.
0:19:55 > 0:20:00So why do we have Q-W-E-R-T-Y at the beginning of our keyboard?
0:20:00 > 0:20:03Well, it has to do with the arrangement of the rods
0:20:03 > 0:20:07and all of the little connections inside of the machine.
0:20:07 > 0:20:10If you put it in a regular alphabetic order,
0:20:10 > 0:20:14things tend to cross or letters next to each other will catch on each other.
0:20:14 > 0:20:16That is extraordinary.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19I mean, I have here, obviously, a 21st-century mobile phone,
0:20:19 > 0:20:21it has a Qwerty keyboard,
0:20:21 > 0:20:23and you're telling me that
0:20:23 > 0:20:27the origin of that was a mechanical difficulty that,
0:20:27 > 0:20:30way back in the 19th century, Sholes was trying to solve.
0:20:30 > 0:20:31That's exactly right.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35It was established in the 1870s and it lives with us today.
0:20:38 > 0:20:41Sholes' design went into mass production
0:20:41 > 0:20:45after he won the backing of the Remington company.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49The Remington No 1 went on sale in 1874.
0:20:49 > 0:20:54It became the world's first commercially successful typewriter.
0:20:54 > 0:20:59Sholes had used his daughter Lillian to demonstrate his earlier devices
0:20:59 > 0:21:04and Remington continued to market its newfangled contraptions to women.
0:21:07 > 0:21:09Al, these are...
0:21:09 > 0:21:11wonderful objects and literally beautiful.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15This is one of the original Sholes and Glidden machines.
0:21:15 > 0:21:19It's painted and decorated this way because of the Remington company.
0:21:19 > 0:21:21So the idea was that,
0:21:21 > 0:21:25if the scary typewriting machine was decorated in a similar way
0:21:25 > 0:21:29to an object that's already in your home, you'd be more apt to use it,
0:21:29 > 0:21:31especially for women.
0:21:31 > 0:21:35Their manual dexterity was considered to be superior to that of men,
0:21:35 > 0:21:37so they were really desired as typists.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40By 1888, there were 60,000 typists across America
0:21:40 > 0:21:42and most of them were women.
0:21:42 > 0:21:45Were women typists reasonably well paid?
0:21:45 > 0:21:48Your average clerk at the time was making about 9 a week.
0:21:48 > 0:21:52An experienced typist could make 20 a week.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55That was an incredible amount of money at the time.
0:21:55 > 0:21:58So the typewriter, an object that I very much take for granted,
0:21:58 > 0:22:02had a huge impact on business, a huge impact on society, too.
0:22:02 > 0:22:03That's exactly right.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09Ah! Now, that is the sort of machine that I remember being in my house
0:22:09 > 0:22:11in my childhood. What is that?
0:22:11 > 0:22:13This is my personal machine, it's a Royal Deluxe.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15It's the same model that Hemingway used.
0:22:15 > 0:22:18It's a while since I used one of these.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51Before I leave Milwaukee, I'm curious to sample one
0:22:51 > 0:22:53of its favourite treats.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- Hello.- Hello. I'm from out-of-town.
0:23:14 > 0:23:16Can you tell me what frozen custard is, please?
0:23:16 > 0:23:20Frozen custard is like ice cream, except it is made with fresh cream
0:23:20 > 0:23:23and eggs, and we serve it fresh out of the machine everyday.
0:23:23 > 0:23:26Right. That sounds good. Now, what flavour do you recommend?
0:23:26 > 0:23:29Our most populars are butter pecan and vanilla.
0:23:29 > 0:23:32Butter pecan, ooh, yes. Let me have that one, please.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35And can I have it in one of those cones with the Stars and Stripes
0:23:35 > 0:23:38- on it?- Yes, sure. How many scoops would you like?
0:23:38 > 0:23:44- One through five?- One through five?! - Five!- Wow, maybe two?- Two.- Two.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47- OK. Anything else? - No, just that, please.- OK.
0:23:47 > 0:23:51First made in 1919 in Coney Island, New York,
0:23:51 > 0:23:54when egg yolks were added to ice cream,
0:23:54 > 0:23:58frozen custard is hugely popular in the dairy state of Wisconsin.
0:23:58 > 0:24:04And Milwaukee is the unofficial frozen custard capital of the world.
0:24:04 > 0:24:07- Wow.- Thank you, sir.- Thank you. - Thank you.- Have a good day.
0:24:10 > 0:24:12Oooh. It's melting quickly.
0:24:15 > 0:24:16Mmm!
0:24:16 > 0:24:20Wow, that is so rich. Lots of butter.
0:24:20 > 0:24:21But I love the crunchiness...
0:24:23 > 0:24:25..of the pecans.
0:24:38 > 0:24:40I'm bidding Milwaukee farewell
0:24:40 > 0:24:43and following my Appleton's 30 miles south.
0:24:56 > 0:25:01The book tells me that the tracks run along the west shore of Lake Michigan
0:25:01 > 0:25:03through a rich farming region.
0:25:04 > 0:25:08Farmers played a vital role in 19th-century urbanisation
0:25:08 > 0:25:11and industrialisation.
0:25:11 > 0:25:15I'm heading for Racine, Wisconsin, the second city of the state,
0:25:15 > 0:25:17pleasantly situated on a plateau
0:25:17 > 0:25:20projecting about five miles into the lake.
0:25:20 > 0:25:26Manufactures are the chief source of the city's prosperity.
0:25:26 > 0:25:29Today's researchers will produce a combined harvest
0:25:29 > 0:25:32of mechanisation and agriculture.
0:25:47 > 0:25:49TRAIN HORN BLARES
0:25:51 > 0:25:54I'm on the case of a man who knew how to sort
0:25:54 > 0:25:56the wheat from the chaff.
0:26:02 > 0:26:07Case IH Agriculture is now a global brand.
0:26:07 > 0:26:11Marketing manager Juliann Ulbrich knows how the story began.
0:26:12 > 0:26:14Juliann, hi.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16- Hi.- I'm Michael.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19- Nice to meet you. - What a wonderful place this is.
0:26:19 > 0:26:22What an extraordinary collection of historic artefacts.
0:26:22 > 0:26:27Now, your founder had the wonderful name Jerome Increase Case.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29- Tell me about him.- Yeah.
0:26:29 > 0:26:32So we often call him JI Case for short
0:26:32 > 0:26:36and he was actually born in New York state.
0:26:36 > 0:26:38He was a very bright young man
0:26:38 > 0:26:43and saw a lot of opportunity to make the farmers' life a lot easier.
0:26:43 > 0:26:48And so, in 1842, JI Case headed west to Wisconsin,
0:26:48 > 0:26:52the perfect place to turn his ideas into big business.
0:26:52 > 0:26:57The Midwest at that time was the big breadbasket of the United States
0:26:57 > 0:27:00and where industry meets agriculture.
0:27:00 > 0:27:05Right here, you have the Great Lakes, rail hubs,
0:27:05 > 0:27:09so that you can transport both equipment
0:27:09 > 0:27:14and the grain that you needed to feed the large population out east.
0:27:14 > 0:27:18This looks like the oldest piece in your collection. Tell me about that.
0:27:18 > 0:27:21Yeah, so this is a threshing machine from the 1860s.
0:27:21 > 0:27:26It beats the wheat to separate the straw from the grain.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29Before you had this machine, how was that process undertaken?
0:27:29 > 0:27:34You would have farmers doing this by hand with flails, beating the grain.
0:27:34 > 0:27:37This was a huge improvement.
0:27:37 > 0:27:40In the 1840s, when JI Case started the business,
0:27:40 > 0:27:44about three quarters of the American population was involved in farming.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47It was extremely labour-intensive.
0:27:47 > 0:27:51But the threshing machine and other mechanisation,
0:27:51 > 0:27:56it greatly reduced the number of people that had to be tied to the land.
0:27:56 > 0:28:01So, by the 1870s, it was only about half of the population.
0:28:01 > 0:28:05The Industrial Revolution was largely enabled by the advances in
0:28:05 > 0:28:09agriculture and mechanisation on the farms.
0:28:10 > 0:28:12At the time of my guidebook,
0:28:12 > 0:28:14JI Case's company was growing
0:28:14 > 0:28:18and diversifying into all manner of farm equipment.
0:28:19 > 0:28:23And some of their world-famous tractors are still made here
0:28:23 > 0:28:27in Racine at the rate of roughly one every 20 minutes.
0:28:28 > 0:28:33Jerome Increase Case was probably aptly named because
0:28:33 > 0:28:35the business has mushroomed,
0:28:35 > 0:28:39not only in the size of the production line,
0:28:39 > 0:28:41but in the size of the vehicles.
0:28:41 > 0:28:44Just look at these jumbo tractors!
0:28:47 > 0:28:49Plant manager Nate Burgers
0:28:49 > 0:28:54has agreed to let me test drive a brand-new, six-cylinder,
0:28:54 > 0:28:57280 horsepower tractor.
0:28:57 > 0:28:59All right, so this is the final product here,
0:28:59 > 0:29:01so let me show you how to get inside this.
0:29:01 > 0:29:03Feel free to step right up there.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07I'm in.
0:29:07 > 0:29:10- All right.- Lovely, comfortable machine, actually.
0:29:11 > 0:29:13ENGINE STARTS
0:29:13 > 0:29:15Perfect.
0:29:25 > 0:29:26And a little bit of gas.
0:29:26 > 0:29:29- Yeah.- Can I put a little bit of gas? - Go ahead, get it going.
0:29:33 > 0:29:37The latest Magnum tractor rolls off the line,
0:29:37 > 0:29:40a tribute to Jerome Increase Case.
0:30:05 > 0:30:09I'm leaving Wisconsin this morning, bound for Illinois.
0:30:09 > 0:30:13Thrilled to be on my way to one of America's greatest cities.
0:30:13 > 0:30:15Chicago.
0:30:40 > 0:30:41According to Appleton's,
0:30:41 > 0:30:46"Chicago ranks next in commercial importance to New York among
0:30:46 > 0:30:48"the cities of the United States."
0:30:48 > 0:30:52I suspect that Chicago would resent the comparison.
0:30:52 > 0:30:56In any case, its response is constant renewal.
0:30:56 > 0:31:01New buildings and attractions appear at a dizzying rate,
0:31:01 > 0:31:04and it defies any city to match its energy.
0:31:06 > 0:31:08- MAN OVER TANNOY: - Ladies and gentlemen,
0:31:08 > 0:31:10in just a moment our next stop will be our final stop -
0:31:10 > 0:31:12Union Station, downtown Chicago.
0:31:14 > 0:31:16By the time of my guidebook,
0:31:16 > 0:31:20Chicago had emerged as the Midwest's major metropolis...
0:31:20 > 0:31:23Thank you.
0:31:23 > 0:31:26..and North America's greatest railroad centre.
0:31:31 > 0:31:34Today, Chicago's Union Station is still at the heart
0:31:34 > 0:31:38the United States's passenger rail system.
0:31:44 > 0:31:48Appleton's remarks that "the Union depot in Chicago is
0:31:48 > 0:31:51"one of the largest and finest in the country."
0:31:51 > 0:31:53Even so, it wasn't big enough.
0:31:53 > 0:31:56And this extraordinary Parthenon of the railways had to be
0:31:56 > 0:31:59constructed at the beginning of the 20th century.
0:31:59 > 0:32:03What I get here, more than in any other American railway station,
0:32:03 > 0:32:06is that sense that you can travel the length and the breadth
0:32:06 > 0:32:08of the continent by train.
0:32:08 > 0:32:13There are services from here to New York, to Washington, to San Antonio
0:32:13 > 0:32:18in Texas, to Seattle in Washington state, and to Los Angeles -
0:32:18 > 0:32:22on trains called Hiawatha, Empire Builder,
0:32:22 > 0:32:25Southwest Chief and California Zephyr.
0:32:25 > 0:32:28Pure railway nostalgia.
0:32:38 > 0:32:40I feel a special excitement when I'm coming to one of
0:32:40 > 0:32:44the world's great conurbations - "my kind of town"!
0:32:52 > 0:32:54Arriving in Chicago today,
0:32:54 > 0:32:59it's impossible not to be awed by its forest of high-rise buildings.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02This city has been an architectural innovator for
0:33:02 > 0:33:05the last 130 years.
0:33:11 > 0:33:14I'm navigating the Chicago River to admire
0:33:14 > 0:33:17the city's most striking structures,
0:33:17 > 0:33:21and I am boarding with architecture expert Jen Masengarb.
0:33:21 > 0:33:23Hello.
0:33:24 > 0:33:27Looking forward to this. After you, Jen.
0:33:36 > 0:33:40The modern skyscraper was born here in 1885
0:33:40 > 0:33:44when a metal-framed, ten-storey building was completed.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46It's no longer standing,
0:33:46 > 0:33:49but there's plenty left for architecture buffs.
0:33:52 > 0:33:55I suppose the best way to see Chicago's architecture is from the water.
0:33:55 > 0:33:59It is. The Chicago River is that sort of lifeblood of the city.
0:33:59 > 0:34:02Dominating us now seems to be a lot of glass-sided towers,
0:34:02 > 0:34:04highly reflective.
0:34:04 > 0:34:06This seems to be the big fashion these days.
0:34:06 > 0:34:09Even within that, though, you can see different eras in different ways
0:34:09 > 0:34:12that the glass was treated or different materials.
0:34:12 > 0:34:13One very beautiful thing about
0:34:13 > 0:34:17the amount of glass that has been used in the last few decades
0:34:17 > 0:34:21is that so much of the city is then reflected in those buildings.
0:34:21 > 0:34:26And as you pass by, you get this kaleidoscope of the buildings,
0:34:26 > 0:34:29they are all moving as you are moving.
0:34:29 > 0:34:33Yeah. One of the earliest buildings to do that is 333 West Wacker.
0:34:33 > 0:34:35For many Chicagoans, it's their favourite.
0:34:35 > 0:34:37Isn't that beautiful?
0:34:37 > 0:34:41One of the sounds of the cities is the trains.
0:34:41 > 0:34:43And that sound echoes all along the river.
0:34:43 > 0:34:46Union Station is right behind these skyscrapers
0:34:46 > 0:34:49and what you see underneath here are the train tracks
0:34:49 > 0:34:52with skyscrapers built on top of them
0:34:52 > 0:34:55because Chicago developed something called air rights.
0:34:55 > 0:34:59That you can actually buy the air of your neighbour's property
0:34:59 > 0:35:02and build something on top of them next door.
0:35:02 > 0:35:07It seems that the city has remained a playground for architects
0:35:07 > 0:35:09to experiment, to innovate.
0:35:09 > 0:35:13Mostly the architecture we are seeing along the river is from the 20th century
0:35:13 > 0:35:17because the land along the river is precious and what happens often is
0:35:17 > 0:35:22that the buildings are demolished to build something larger and something taller.
0:35:22 > 0:35:26A skyscraper is a building designed to make the land pay.
0:35:26 > 0:35:29In the 19th century, as today,
0:35:29 > 0:35:32the high cost of land drove lofty ideas.
0:35:32 > 0:35:37The first skyscrapers were built to cope with Chicago's growing labour force
0:35:37 > 0:35:40as job-seekers piled into the city.
0:35:40 > 0:35:43Thank you for suggesting Federal Plaza because we see here
0:35:43 > 0:35:47- a range of Chicago architecture from different vintages.- Yes.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50This lovely building behind us. Tell me about that.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53This is the Marquette Building. It was designed in 1894.
0:35:53 > 0:35:55The Marquette Building is kind of the epitome,
0:35:55 > 0:35:58a classic early Chicago skyscraper.
0:35:58 > 0:36:01About 18 to 20 stories, is kind of the typical height.
0:36:01 > 0:36:02And when you look at it,
0:36:02 > 0:36:04the Marquette Building draws our eye up.
0:36:04 > 0:36:08This is a new thought. How does the building meet the sky?
0:36:08 > 0:36:09So this generation of architects,
0:36:09 > 0:36:12they were really sort of thinking about that crown.
0:36:12 > 0:36:15Some borrowing from ancient Greece and Rome,
0:36:15 > 0:36:17some stripped of that,
0:36:17 > 0:36:21some borrowing more of kind of medieval detail.
0:36:21 > 0:36:24Was Chicago a suitable place to build tall buildings?
0:36:24 > 0:36:27I think Chicago is probably the worst place to build a skyscraper
0:36:27 > 0:36:30because Chicago has incredibly poor soil.
0:36:30 > 0:36:32It's like a clay mixture almost.
0:36:32 > 0:36:36The New York Times in 1891 likened it to a jelly cake.
0:36:36 > 0:36:40And so all the attempts through the 1880s and into the 1890s
0:36:40 > 0:36:43are to try to make the walls thinner
0:36:43 > 0:36:46and make the building lighter so that it doesn't sink so much
0:36:46 > 0:36:49- into our really poor soil. - That is absolutely extraordinary.
0:36:49 > 0:36:53I mean, look at Chicago now. It's absolutely dominated by skyscrapers.
0:37:01 > 0:37:03In the late 19th century,
0:37:03 > 0:37:06Chicago's skyscrapers were impressive feats of engineering
0:37:06 > 0:37:10that expressed the city's triumph over calamity.
0:37:11 > 0:37:14Appleton's tells me that in October 1871,
0:37:14 > 0:37:21"Chicago was the scene of one of the most destructive conflagrations in history.
0:37:21 > 0:37:24"The flames swept with resistless fury.
0:37:24 > 0:37:29"The total area destroyed was nearly 3.5 square miles."
0:37:29 > 0:37:33This water tower was one of the few buildings to survive.
0:37:33 > 0:37:35My Appleton's tells me
0:37:35 > 0:37:39the fire originated in a small barn in DeKoven Street.
0:37:40 > 0:37:44Today the city's fire academy, on that same site,
0:37:44 > 0:37:47is a working memorial to the tragedy.
0:37:47 > 0:37:48Jerry.
0:37:48 > 0:37:52I am meeting Chicago firefighter Jerry Medina.
0:37:52 > 0:37:57Jerry, my Appleton's guidebook gives a description of the fire of 1871
0:37:57 > 0:37:59of total destruction.
0:37:59 > 0:38:0298,000 homeless, 17,000 buildings destroyed.
0:38:02 > 0:38:04- Is that accurate? - Yes, very accurate.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07Sadly, unfortunately, 300 people also died as a result of that fire.
0:38:07 > 0:38:10How was it possible for a fire to do so much damage, do you think?
0:38:10 > 0:38:12Basically the fire was out of control.
0:38:12 > 0:38:15Back then everything was made of wood,
0:38:15 > 0:38:17plus there was no rain for several days.
0:38:17 > 0:38:19Everything was ready to burn.
0:38:23 > 0:38:27Whirlwinds of flame, known as fire devils,
0:38:27 > 0:38:30spread the blaze and the terror ever further.
0:38:32 > 0:38:33How long did it take to put out?
0:38:33 > 0:38:35It took about three days.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37The fire actually had to burn itself out.
0:38:37 > 0:38:39The flames eventually abated,
0:38:39 > 0:38:42leaving a city smouldering with anger.
0:38:43 > 0:38:46Rumours about how the fire began flew like cinders,
0:38:46 > 0:38:50settling on Irish immigrant Catherine O'Leary.
0:38:50 > 0:38:52It was said that as she milked her cow in the barn,
0:38:52 > 0:38:54it kicked over a lantern,
0:38:54 > 0:38:59but historians have since suggested that her neighbour could have been to blame.
0:38:59 > 0:39:01As recently as about 15, 20 years ago,
0:39:01 > 0:39:04Mrs O'Leary was found to not to be the actual cause of the fire.
0:39:04 > 0:39:06Poor Mrs O'Leary.
0:39:06 > 0:39:10The fire was a very long time ago, but is it still, as it were,
0:39:10 > 0:39:12part of the culture and heritage of the city?
0:39:12 > 0:39:15You can ask a child about what happened in 1871 in Chicago?
0:39:15 > 0:39:18Right away, the first thing they will tell you -
0:39:18 > 0:39:19the Great Chicago Fire.
0:39:19 > 0:39:22So it is a huge, huge part of our history.
0:39:24 > 0:39:29Today the city is guarded by the largest fire department in the Midwest.
0:39:29 > 0:39:34Its firefighters respond to half a million emergency calls a year.
0:39:34 > 0:39:38Lieutenant Brett Snow is showing me what it takes
0:39:38 > 0:39:40to become one of Chicago's finest.
0:39:40 > 0:39:42Ready to rock and roll.
0:39:44 > 0:39:45- OK.- All right.
0:39:45 > 0:39:47Into the kneeling position.
0:39:47 > 0:39:50- Into the kneeling position. There we go.- This is kind of like...
0:39:50 > 0:39:53- using a firearm, almost, isn't it? - Yeah.- OK.
0:39:59 > 0:40:01The hose is under enormous pressure.
0:40:01 > 0:40:04I'm having to use great force just to keep it under control.
0:40:04 > 0:40:07I've got to imagine what it would be like to do this in a blaze
0:40:07 > 0:40:09or a terrible emergency,
0:40:09 > 0:40:11and think that guys from Chicago
0:40:11 > 0:40:14and all over do this every day of their lives.
0:40:14 > 0:40:16Wow! Certainly feeling the pressure, Brett,
0:40:16 > 0:40:19- it must be quite tiring, this? - Yeah, it sure is.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22If you are not holding it correctly it can really wear you out fast.
0:40:22 > 0:40:25I can see that. I'm getting tired just doing this.
0:40:25 > 0:40:26Yeah, yeah.
0:40:26 > 0:40:31And for this hose there's roughly 175 gallons in a minute coming out.
0:40:33 > 0:40:35- Let's hope that deals with the fire. - Yeah.
0:40:37 > 0:40:38- Very nice.- Thank you, Brett.
0:40:38 > 0:40:42- I tell you what, I had a great time. - Thank you.- You did great.
0:40:47 > 0:40:53No fire hose can dampen my enthusiasm for the Chicago skyline.
0:40:53 > 0:40:57To see it at its best, I'm making my way to the Willis Tower,
0:40:57 > 0:41:00still widely known by its former name - Sears Tower.
0:41:02 > 0:41:06For a generation, this was the tallest building in the world.
0:41:06 > 0:41:08- WOMAN OVER SPEAKER: - More than 24 feet per second.
0:41:08 > 0:41:10Eiffel Tower.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13The Bank of China Tower in Hong Kong.
0:41:13 > 0:41:191,250 feet and the Empire State Building of New York.
0:41:19 > 0:41:23103 floors, 1,350 feet in one minute.
0:41:33 > 0:41:36HE LAUGHS
0:41:45 > 0:41:48Chicago at sunset.
0:41:48 > 0:41:51Surely one of the world's most stunning cities.
0:42:20 > 0:42:24One of the most iconic sights in Chicago is
0:42:24 > 0:42:26the elevated railway - or L.
0:42:26 > 0:42:28They must have saved money,
0:42:28 > 0:42:30instead of going underground they build
0:42:30 > 0:42:33the railway at first-floor level. Boy, is it noisy.
0:42:39 > 0:42:43The earliest sections of the Chicago L date back to 1892,
0:42:43 > 0:42:47making this the second-oldest metro system in the United States.
0:42:51 > 0:42:54As railroads fanned out across the United States,
0:42:54 > 0:42:57they helped to create a shared culture.
0:42:57 > 0:43:00And one pastime soon emerged as the nation's favourite.
0:43:00 > 0:43:04- MAN OVER SPEAKER:- Let's play ball.
0:43:04 > 0:43:05Baseball.
0:43:09 > 0:43:12To investigate the national game,
0:43:12 > 0:43:16I'm going to strike out to Joliet, Illinois, base myself there,
0:43:16 > 0:43:19although it's not exactly on my home run.
0:43:25 > 0:43:29Today baseball is a multibillion dollar industry.
0:43:29 > 0:43:33But around the time of my guidebook, it was in need of reform.
0:43:34 > 0:43:36At the home of the Joliet Slammers,
0:43:36 > 0:43:39I'm hearing how the modern game was born
0:43:39 > 0:43:42with baseball historian David Shiner.
0:43:42 > 0:43:46David, do you have any theory as to why in the United States
0:43:46 > 0:43:49it's baseball that takes over rather than, say, a game like cricket?
0:43:49 > 0:43:53Well, you know, Michael, it's seen as an American home-grown game
0:43:53 > 0:43:57and it's in the American psyche. It goes the deepest, historically.
0:43:57 > 0:44:01Baseball was a game that you could play with any amount of people
0:44:01 > 0:44:03at any time, on any kind of a field.
0:44:03 > 0:44:06A sport that was easily taken onto the frontier,
0:44:06 > 0:44:09you just needed a piece of wood and a ball, and there you go.
0:44:09 > 0:44:11MICHAEL CHUCKLES
0:44:11 > 0:44:14The first written rules for baseball date from the 1840s
0:44:14 > 0:44:19and the first professional club was established in 1869.
0:44:19 > 0:44:22Places like Chicago were no longer frontier towns,
0:44:22 > 0:44:24but busy industrial cities.
0:44:24 > 0:44:26As the game became professional,
0:44:26 > 0:44:29it became more of a game for immigrants,
0:44:29 > 0:44:32a game for people from all walks of life.
0:44:32 > 0:44:34Frankly, there were a lot more ruffians than gentlemen when
0:44:34 > 0:44:36the game became professional,
0:44:36 > 0:44:38and that lasted all through the 19th century.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40What could be done about the fact that
0:44:40 > 0:44:43it was becoming a bit of a rough and tumble game?
0:44:43 > 0:44:46Well, it had a lot of negative side effects.
0:44:46 > 0:44:49People being beaten up, a lot of gambling, a lot of roughness.
0:44:49 > 0:44:51So in 1876,
0:44:51 > 0:44:53the first league of clubs was founded
0:44:53 > 0:44:56and that was by a Chicago businessmen named William Hulbert.
0:44:56 > 0:44:58He started the notion that
0:44:58 > 0:45:01owners needed to pay for their clubs to be in the league,
0:45:01 > 0:45:04that there would be penalties if they didn't play their games
0:45:04 > 0:45:06in a fair way, and that the players, similarly,
0:45:06 > 0:45:09could be fined or suspended or even expelled from the game.
0:45:09 > 0:45:12And that was very controversial,
0:45:12 > 0:45:14but it led to the structure of the National League
0:45:14 > 0:45:16that still exists 140 years later,
0:45:16 > 0:45:18so I think he has to be given a lot of credit.
0:45:18 > 0:45:22On my travels in Europe, I found that cricket and soccer, football,
0:45:22 > 0:45:24were very much stimulated by the railways.
0:45:24 > 0:45:27- Was that true of baseball? - Absolutely, Michael.
0:45:27 > 0:45:30The railroads were vital to the spread of baseball.
0:45:30 > 0:45:32When you have a team having to go from Baltimore to Chicago,
0:45:32 > 0:45:35nearly 1,000 miles, the railroads are essential.
0:45:35 > 0:45:38People who played amateur ball liked to watch professionals
0:45:38 > 0:45:42so it became a spectator sport as well as a participant sport.
0:45:42 > 0:45:45In fact, by the time of the National League, often teams would
0:45:45 > 0:45:48schedule their games around when the trains arrived.
0:45:49 > 0:45:54I'm better suited to being a spectator than a participant,
0:45:54 > 0:45:56but I'm game for a go.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05- Hello, Kevin.- Hello.- I'm Michael. Sorry to interrupt you.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08- It's all right.- You're a pitcher, aren't you?- Yes, I am.
0:46:08 > 0:46:11I've never pitched in my life. Where does one start?
0:46:11 > 0:46:14Where does one start? We start at the mound.
0:46:14 > 0:46:16OK, let's go to the mound.
0:46:16 > 0:46:19This right here is called the rubber.
0:46:19 > 0:46:23So, once you toe the rubber, and you come to your set position, most
0:46:23 > 0:46:29pitchers lift their front knee to about a 90 degree angle right here.
0:46:29 > 0:46:30And then you go...
0:46:33 > 0:46:35Right.
0:46:36 > 0:46:38- Ooh. Thank you very much.- Yup.
0:46:38 > 0:46:40Fingers should just slide right in there.
0:46:45 > 0:46:47On, no, that didn't quite work.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50Need to throw it a good deal harder than that.
0:46:50 > 0:46:52Oh, God.
0:46:54 > 0:46:56Go ahead and aim for the batter, Michael...
0:47:09 > 0:47:10MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:47:10 > 0:47:13I don't think pitching is for me, somehow.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16I'm hoping for more luck stepping up to the plate with coach
0:47:16 > 0:47:18Ryan Clavenna.
0:47:18 > 0:47:19So how do I hold the bat?
0:47:19 > 0:47:21Well, you are a right-handed batter,
0:47:21 > 0:47:23so you're going to want to put your left-hand at the bottom of the bat
0:47:23 > 0:47:26and your right-hand on top of there. You want to get them close together.
0:47:26 > 0:47:29If there is any separation it is harder to swing the bat.
0:47:29 > 0:47:31You want to start with the bat on your right shoulder.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33- On my right shoulder.- And then as he's throwing the ball,
0:47:33 > 0:47:35- then you are going to start swinging.- OK.
0:47:41 > 0:47:43Oh!
0:47:45 > 0:47:47Oh! There we go.
0:47:47 > 0:47:50You're looking like a natural already.
0:47:57 > 0:48:00Enough humiliation. I'm out of here.
0:48:07 > 0:48:10After that mediocre performance,
0:48:10 > 0:48:12back in downtown Chicago,
0:48:12 > 0:48:15I was hardly expecting to see my name in lights!
0:48:20 > 0:48:25Number 99, it's time to dine. Number 98. Thank you, ma'am.
0:48:25 > 0:48:3099. 106. 108, there's no more wait, the food tastes great!
0:48:32 > 0:48:33Hello, sir. Welcome to Portillo's.
0:48:33 > 0:48:35Thank you very much. I'm on a pilgrimage.
0:48:35 > 0:48:37Portillo is my name.
0:48:37 > 0:48:40- Oh, congratulations.- Yeah, I feel I've come to my spiritual home.
0:48:40 > 0:48:43OK, good. Well, welcome. We're glad to have you.
0:48:43 > 0:48:46Tell me, what should I eat on my first occasion?
0:48:46 > 0:48:47- Italian beef sandwich. - That sounds good.
0:48:47 > 0:48:49- Yes, OK.- You can do that with peppers.
0:48:49 > 0:48:51So we have hot peppers or sweet peppers.
0:48:51 > 0:48:52- Hot peppers.- Hot peppers, OK.
0:48:52 > 0:48:55Would you like any cheese on that? Mozzarella or cheddar?
0:48:55 > 0:48:56- Mozzarella.- Mozzarella, OK.
0:48:56 > 0:48:58- Thank you.- Any French fries with that?
0:48:58 > 0:49:01- We have got fries with cheese.- No, I think that will be quite enough.
0:49:01 > 0:49:02- Thank you. Thank you very much.- OK.
0:49:02 > 0:49:05So, the founder was called Portillo?
0:49:05 > 0:49:07Yes, Dick Portillo.
0:49:07 > 0:49:09Wow! And how did he start out?
0:49:09 > 0:49:12In 1963 in a trailer, with no running water.
0:49:12 > 0:49:13How amazing.
0:49:13 > 0:49:18221, your order it out, done! 221.
0:49:18 > 0:49:22I see that when they're calling the orders, the girls are making rhymes,
0:49:22 > 0:49:24like you do in bingo in Britain.
0:49:24 > 0:49:27That's exactly what we do. Do you want to give it a shot?
0:49:27 > 0:49:28I'd love to. Thank you very much indeed.
0:49:28 > 0:49:31You are a Portillo, no problem. We'll give it a go.
0:49:33 > 0:49:36Can I get a short steak and a chocolate shake?
0:49:36 > 0:49:38258, your train's never late.
0:49:38 > 0:49:41258, your train's never late!
0:49:41 > 0:49:44256, the train to the sticks!
0:49:44 > 0:49:46Hi, how are you?
0:49:46 > 0:49:48You enjoy that now.
0:49:48 > 0:49:52247, train to heaven.
0:49:52 > 0:49:55283, in the land of the free.
0:49:56 > 0:49:58283.
0:50:05 > 0:50:07HE CHUCKLES
0:50:07 > 0:50:10Look at this understated little number.
0:50:15 > 0:50:20It's good. Italian beef in a restaurant with a Spanish name.
0:50:20 > 0:50:22It's fundamentally American.
0:50:47 > 0:50:51At the time of my Appleton's guidebook, Chicago's architects
0:50:51 > 0:50:54were not the only ones with celestial aspirations.
0:50:58 > 0:51:02Religious fervour swept mid-19th century North America.
0:51:02 > 0:51:04In the fast-growing cities,
0:51:04 > 0:51:08there were mass conversions and congregations in the thousands.
0:51:09 > 0:51:11Here in Chicago,
0:51:11 > 0:51:14this Christian evangelism was led by two men
0:51:14 > 0:51:18who played a starring role in the heavenly revival.
0:51:18 > 0:51:20The guidebook tells me that
0:51:20 > 0:51:22"the Great Tabernacle on Munro Street,
0:51:22 > 0:51:25"where Messrs Moody and Sankey held their meetings,
0:51:25 > 0:51:30"will see 10,000 persons and is used for sacred concerts
0:51:30 > 0:51:32"and other religious gatherings."
0:51:32 > 0:51:37This more modern church, even today, bears the name of Dwight Moody.
0:51:37 > 0:51:39And in the words of the psalm,
0:51:39 > 0:51:44I will "enter into his gates with thanksgiving."
0:51:44 > 0:51:48CHOIR SINGS
0:51:48 > 0:51:50# O Jesus is the rock in a weary land
0:51:50 > 0:51:53# O Jesus is the rock in a weary land
0:51:53 > 0:51:59# A shelter in the time of storm. #
0:51:59 > 0:52:02The tradition of sacred concerts is clearly alive
0:52:02 > 0:52:06and stomping at the Moody Church.
0:52:06 > 0:52:11CHOIR SINGS
0:52:13 > 0:52:18To discover how music helped to make Moody and Sankey household names,
0:52:18 > 0:52:21I'm meeting church member Daniel Favero.
0:52:21 > 0:52:25CHOIR SINGS
0:52:45 > 0:52:47Choir, that was really beautiful.
0:52:47 > 0:52:50May I say an enormous thank you to you?
0:52:50 > 0:52:52That was magnificent.
0:52:52 > 0:52:57Daniel, I have come here in pursuit of Messrs Moody and Sankey.
0:52:57 > 0:52:59Who were these gentlemen?
0:52:59 > 0:53:02On the vernacular of the day, 1880,
0:53:02 > 0:53:04they were called workers in souls.
0:53:04 > 0:53:07They were polar opposites in personality and background.
0:53:07 > 0:53:12DL Moody was uneducated, he grew up in rural western Massachusetts.
0:53:12 > 0:53:16Ira Sankey was the son of a bank president in Philadelphia.
0:53:16 > 0:53:19How did two such diverse people meet?
0:53:19 > 0:53:23They were both delegates to a YMCA meeting in Indianapolis, Indiana
0:53:23 > 0:53:26in 1870, and there was a lull in the meeting.
0:53:26 > 0:53:28DL Moody was sort of unconventional -
0:53:28 > 0:53:29he hated it when it got boring,
0:53:29 > 0:53:31and he said that suddenly a man stood up
0:53:31 > 0:53:33and started singing, and that was Ira Sankey.
0:53:33 > 0:53:36So DL Moody ran up to him afterwards and he said,
0:53:36 > 0:53:39"Come join my ministry in Chicago."
0:53:39 > 0:53:42What sort of ministry had Moody had until then, then?
0:53:42 > 0:53:45Well, he actually started as a Sunday school teacher
0:53:45 > 0:53:48in the neighbourhood of Chicago called Little Hell.
0:53:48 > 0:53:51It was a very rough neighbourhood. They called it Little Hell,
0:53:51 > 0:53:54they said, because there is nothing there but bad men and worse women.
0:53:56 > 0:53:58Moody hoped that Sankey's music
0:53:58 > 0:54:01could help him to reach into Chicago's slums.
0:54:03 > 0:54:06He believed that to save the inner-city poor,
0:54:06 > 0:54:08the message must be accessible.
0:54:10 > 0:54:13DL Moody would speak extemporaneously,
0:54:13 > 0:54:16he would relate to the audience, but he was very unorthodox.
0:54:16 > 0:54:18He would not even preach with notes.
0:54:18 > 0:54:19He said, "If I can't keep it in my head,
0:54:19 > 0:54:22"I can't expect them to keep it in their head."
0:54:22 > 0:54:25Is it fair to think of this as being the start of that
0:54:25 > 0:54:27particular brand of American evangelism
0:54:27 > 0:54:30- that's known across the world? - I think so.
0:54:30 > 0:54:35In the past, there had been large groups of evangelistic meetings, if you will,
0:54:35 > 0:54:37but it was never planned the way these were.
0:54:37 > 0:54:39You know, with a large auditorium,
0:54:39 > 0:54:42have trained people to pray with people and they walk the aisle,
0:54:42 > 0:54:45have contemporary worship music.
0:54:45 > 0:54:47All these things were innovations of DL Moody.
0:54:50 > 0:54:52A British traveller following my guidebook
0:54:52 > 0:54:56might well have already experienced Moody and Sankey's evangelism.
0:54:57 > 0:54:59In 1873,
0:54:59 > 0:55:03the pair crossed the Atlantic on an international mission.
0:55:03 > 0:55:06They were travelling from church to church throughout England, Wales,
0:55:06 > 0:55:08- Scotland and Ireland. - By train, I hope?
0:55:08 > 0:55:10By train. They passed out flyers, saying,
0:55:10 > 0:55:12"Come hear DL Moody preach the gospel,
0:55:12 > 0:55:15"and come hear Ira Sankey sing the gospel."
0:55:15 > 0:55:18It started very small, but it grew very quickly.
0:55:18 > 0:55:22And by the time they got back to London after their two-year circuit,
0:55:22 > 0:55:23in the last seven months,
0:55:23 > 0:55:26over two million people came to hear him preach.
0:55:26 > 0:55:28Extraordinary.
0:55:28 > 0:55:31Moody and Sankey's British tour offered them both celebrity
0:55:31 > 0:55:34and inspiration.
0:55:34 > 0:55:37On a railway journey from Glasgow to Edinburgh,
0:55:37 > 0:55:39Sankey spotted a poem in the newspaper
0:55:39 > 0:55:42which sparked perhaps his best-loved hymn.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44The Ninety And Nine.
0:55:44 > 0:55:49# There were ninety and nine that safely lay
0:55:49 > 0:55:53# In the shelter of the fold
0:55:53 > 0:55:58# But one was out on the hills away
0:55:58 > 0:56:03# Far off from the gates of gold
0:56:03 > 0:56:08# Away on the mountains wild and bare
0:56:08 > 0:56:16# Away from the tender Shepherd's care
0:56:18 > 0:56:23# But all through the mountains, thunder-riven
0:56:23 > 0:56:27# And up from the rocky steep
0:56:27 > 0:56:32# There arose a glad cry to the gate of heaven,
0:56:32 > 0:56:36# "Rejoice! I have found My sheep!"
0:56:36 > 0:56:41# And the angels echoed around the throne
0:56:41 > 0:56:46# "Rejoice, for the Lord brings back His own!"
0:56:46 > 0:56:54# "Rejoice, for the Lord brings back His own!" #
0:57:00 > 0:57:05I found Milwaukee impressive, and it's made a major impact
0:57:05 > 0:57:09on America with agricultural machinery and motorcycles -
0:57:09 > 0:57:12and on the world, with the development of the typewriter.
0:57:12 > 0:57:16Despite that, when I arrived in Chicago, I was aware
0:57:16 > 0:57:19of the throbbing power of a metropolis.
0:57:19 > 0:57:23This city shrugged off a major conflagration
0:57:23 > 0:57:26and architecturally reached for the sky.
0:57:26 > 0:57:31Its expansion upwards and outwards continues apace.
0:57:31 > 0:57:35Its opulence shimmers from its glass-sided buildings,
0:57:35 > 0:57:37reflected in Lake Michigan.
0:57:37 > 0:57:42It stands proud and tall at the crossroads of America.
0:57:45 > 0:57:50Next time, I gravitate to the ultimate marshalling yard...
0:57:50 > 0:57:53So I call this the economy of motion.
0:57:53 > 0:57:55..recreate the original brownie...
0:57:55 > 0:57:57That is wicked!
0:57:57 > 0:57:58Well done, Chef.
0:57:58 > 0:58:02..discover the solution to the city's pollution...
0:58:02 > 0:58:04Imagine when you have 30,000 cubic feet per second
0:58:04 > 0:58:08of sewage coming out into here. It will be beautiful.
0:58:08 > 0:58:10A great image.
0:58:10 > 0:58:12..and get my hands on the hooter.
0:58:12 > 0:58:16People often talk about the smell of steam locomotives.
0:58:16 > 0:58:19What about the sound of them?
0:58:19 > 0:58:22HOOTER