Canon City, Colorado, to Colorado Springs

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0:00:02 > 0:00:07I have crossed the Atlantic to ride the railroads of North America with

0:00:07 > 0:00:09my reliable Appletons' guide.

0:00:12 > 0:00:14Published in the late 19th century,

0:00:14 > 0:00:17Appletons' General Guide to North America

0:00:17 > 0:00:20will direct me to all that's novel,

0:00:20 > 0:00:21beautiful,

0:00:21 > 0:00:23memorable

0:00:23 > 0:00:26and striking in the United States.

0:00:26 > 0:00:27INDISTINCT SHOUTING

0:00:28 > 0:00:30As I journey across this vast continent,

0:00:30 > 0:00:34I'll discover how pioneers and cowboys conquered the West...

0:00:34 > 0:00:35GUNSHOTS

0:00:35 > 0:00:39..and how the railroads tied this nation together,

0:00:39 > 0:00:42helping to create the global superstate of today.

0:01:06 > 0:01:09My rail adventure continues to the West,

0:01:09 > 0:01:13and will bring me to some of the most beautiful scenery in the world.

0:01:13 > 0:01:17I'll discover how a poet described the grandeur to be found

0:01:17 > 0:01:19between sea and shining sea,

0:01:19 > 0:01:24and how the iron horse catered for tourists with nerves of steel.

0:01:26 > 0:01:31The Rocky Mountains were the last barrier in the railroads' race to

0:01:31 > 0:01:32win the West.

0:01:32 > 0:01:36The stakes were high and railroad tycoons would fight for the chance

0:01:36 > 0:01:40to open up this wilderness to settlement and to trade.

0:01:46 > 0:01:50My railroad journey began in St Louis, the gateway to the West,

0:01:50 > 0:01:55and crossed the Kansas plains to the frontier cow town, Dodge City.

0:01:55 > 0:01:59I continue now west to Colorado Springs in the Rockies

0:01:59 > 0:02:02and then on to Albuquerque in New Mexico

0:02:02 > 0:02:06before finishing at Arizona's most scenic landmark.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13On this leg, I visit Colorado's Canon City,

0:02:13 > 0:02:17and explore the Rockies by heritage railroad.

0:02:17 > 0:02:22It's then north for the 19th-century spa town of Colorado Springs,

0:02:22 > 0:02:26and an ascent with a patriotic heart of the great Pikes Peak.

0:02:31 > 0:02:35This time, I ride the historic railroad that sparked a war...

0:02:35 > 0:02:39They actually built forts along the canyon walls and they aimed the guns

0:02:39 > 0:02:41each other. Shots were fired back and forth.

0:02:41 > 0:02:46# America, America... #

0:02:46 > 0:02:50..explore the origins of an iconic national hymn...

0:02:50 > 0:02:54She took an excursion to the top of Pikes Peak and was inspired by

0:02:54 > 0:02:56the vistas and penned America The Beautiful.

0:02:56 > 0:02:59..and ascend to over 14,000 feet.

0:03:00 > 0:03:02Oh, my word.

0:03:02 > 0:03:06We are going to the very edge.

0:03:06 > 0:03:08That's unbelievable.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18Colorado's southern Rocky Mountain region

0:03:18 > 0:03:22was a winter refuge for Indian tribes such as the Ute, Arapaho

0:03:22 > 0:03:23and Cheyenne.

0:03:23 > 0:03:27The United States gained the territory in 1845

0:03:27 > 0:03:28when it annexed Texas.

0:03:30 > 0:03:33By 1848, America's western territories

0:03:33 > 0:03:36stretched beyond this natural frontier to the Pacific

0:03:36 > 0:03:39and lay open for conquest by the railroad.

0:03:39 > 0:03:43Expansion west would fuel this region's commerce

0:03:43 > 0:03:45and draw visitors in the tens of thousands.

0:03:48 > 0:03:50This pretty place is Canon City,

0:03:50 > 0:03:51which Appleton says is

0:03:51 > 0:03:55"a flourishing mining town with coal deposits,

0:03:55 > 0:03:57"oil wells and mineral springs.

0:03:57 > 0:03:59"The attraction for the tourists

0:03:59 > 0:04:02"lies in its proximity to superb scenery,

0:04:02 > 0:04:04"and Main Street points straight at it."

0:04:09 > 0:04:13My late 19th-century guidebook is drawing me about two miles west to

0:04:13 > 0:04:16a railway that enters the gorge of the Arkansas River

0:04:16 > 0:04:20and cuts through steep granite walls for eight miles.

0:04:22 > 0:04:25This scenic highlight through the Rockies was made possible by

0:04:25 > 0:04:30the construction of an historic narrow-gauge railroad in 1880.

0:04:32 > 0:04:34- Hello.- How are you doing?

0:04:34 > 0:04:36Very well, thank you. Looking forward to this.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39I bet you are. OK, you're going to be in this car right here.

0:04:39 > 0:04:40- Thank you.- Not a problem.

0:04:40 > 0:04:42- Enjoy your trip, sir. - Thank you very much.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47- RADIO:- 'Got a tour on board. Let's take 'em west, over.

0:04:47 > 0:04:49INDISTINCT REPLY

0:04:53 > 0:04:55HOOTER BLOWS

0:05:12 > 0:05:16Every year, 100,000 visitors take this,

0:05:16 > 0:05:19one of Colorado's most scenic two-hour trips.

0:05:19 > 0:05:22Today I'm fortunate to be riding up front

0:05:22 > 0:05:26with the locomotive engineer and some fellow enthusiasts.

0:05:26 > 0:05:27Hello.

0:05:27 > 0:05:30- I'm Michael.- Ken Craig, nice to meet you.- Hello, Ken. - Steve, nice to meet you.

0:05:30 > 0:05:32Hello, Steve. Very good to see you.

0:05:32 > 0:05:34It's a great privilege to ride in the cab.

0:05:34 > 0:05:37- It is.- I know how I got here, how did you get here?

0:05:37 > 0:05:42Well, we're on a nine-day tour of historic railroads around Colorado

0:05:42 > 0:05:45and paid the extra admission to come up here and get a first-class ride.

0:05:45 > 0:05:47It's a wonderful view, isn't it?

0:05:47 > 0:05:50This is one of the most spectacular routes in the western part of the country.

0:05:50 > 0:05:51Just a beautiful thing to see.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54You sound like a bit of an aficionado of railroads?

0:05:54 > 0:05:58So, I volunteer on the weekends at a railroad museum and actually

0:05:58 > 0:05:59rebuild steam locomotives for fun.

0:05:59 > 0:06:02Wow, you really are, may I say, a fanatic.

0:06:02 > 0:06:04- That's fantastic. - Well, to a degree, yes.

0:06:04 > 0:06:08- I'm not going to distract you any longer.- Thank you, Michael.- Good to see you. Steve.- Nice to meet you.

0:06:13 > 0:06:16The Royal Gorge Railroad tracks the Arkansas River,

0:06:16 > 0:06:20which for three million years has eroded the granite of Fremont Peak,

0:06:20 > 0:06:23making the gorge over 1,000ft deep.

0:06:25 > 0:06:29I'm hoping to learn more from museum curator Lea Davis Withero.

0:06:29 > 0:06:30Lea, hello.

0:06:30 > 0:06:32- Hello.- I'm Michael.

0:06:32 > 0:06:37- Nice to meet you.- This is one of the most beautiful railways I've ridden on, it's absolutely superb.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39What's the history of this, how did it start?

0:06:39 > 0:06:44Well, this railroad began as part of William Jackson Palmer's vision

0:06:44 > 0:06:48to connect the front range of Colorado to the rich mines of the Rocky Mountains.

0:06:48 > 0:06:49After the Civil War,

0:06:49 > 0:06:52the Americans turned their eyes to the West

0:06:52 > 0:06:56and there is a mania to connect the Pacific and the Atlantic coasts.

0:06:56 > 0:07:02Palmer comes up with a unique vision to connect them with a north-south line running south from Denver

0:07:02 > 0:07:05all the way through Santa Fe to El Paso, Texas,

0:07:05 > 0:07:08and eventually to connect to the rich trade of Mexico.

0:07:08 > 0:07:10Clearly a very innovative man.

0:07:10 > 0:07:12Who was this Palmer?

0:07:12 > 0:07:15Palmer grew up in Philadelphia during the Industrial Revolution and

0:07:15 > 0:07:17he fell in love with railroads.

0:07:17 > 0:07:18He travelled to Britain,

0:07:18 > 0:07:23he enjoyed travelling on your railway system and learning all about coal technology

0:07:23 > 0:07:27and how it could increase efficiency in American railroads

0:07:27 > 0:07:29and he brought those ideas back to America.

0:07:30 > 0:07:35In 1859, Palmer suggested the Pennsylvania railway should burn coal instead

0:07:35 > 0:07:37of wood in its locomotives,

0:07:37 > 0:07:41and thereby halve the company's fuel costs.

0:07:41 > 0:07:44He also introduced three-foot narrow-gauge railways

0:07:44 > 0:07:48to North America on his Denver And Rio Grande line.

0:07:49 > 0:07:53But in 1877, Palmer had a fight on his hands.

0:07:53 > 0:07:56Rich silver camps had been discovered in Leadville,

0:07:56 > 0:07:58around 80 miles north-west.

0:07:58 > 0:08:01And there was a race to reach it by rail.

0:08:01 > 0:08:05He faced the most competition from the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe,

0:08:05 > 0:08:07a more powerful, more well-financed,

0:08:07 > 0:08:10a bigger railroad, who actually got here first.

0:08:10 > 0:08:12So they both headed into the canyon,

0:08:12 > 0:08:15laying stakes and surveying right alongside each other but,

0:08:15 > 0:08:18as you can see, there's only room for one railroad.

0:08:18 > 0:08:23Over time, they armed themselves and they actually built forts along

0:08:23 > 0:08:25the canyon walls and they aimed guns at each other,

0:08:25 > 0:08:27shots were fired back and forth.

0:08:27 > 0:08:30They were known to go up to the top of the canyon walls

0:08:30 > 0:08:32and throw rocks down at their competitors.

0:08:32 > 0:08:37It might injure someone and definitely would disrupt the building of the railroad.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40The courts eventually had to step in and the Supreme Court

0:08:40 > 0:08:42actually gave the Rio Grande the right of way.

0:08:44 > 0:08:48Despite that ruling in Palmer's favour, battle continued.

0:08:48 > 0:08:51The Santa Fe sabotaged commerce for the Rio Grande,

0:08:51 > 0:08:53leading to more Wild West thuggery.

0:08:54 > 0:08:57Trains were commandeered, depots were put under siege

0:08:57 > 0:08:59and bullets flew.

0:09:00 > 0:09:04Finally, the railroad war was settled by treaty in 1880,

0:09:04 > 0:09:06and the line extended to Leadville.

0:09:07 > 0:09:11Lea, I have to say, for anybody that's not here at the moment,

0:09:11 > 0:09:14it's difficult to describe the grandeur of this.

0:09:14 > 0:09:18The rock is just towering over us, it rises completely sheer.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21It is beautifully lit today.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23It just is awe-inspiring.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25The word awesome is appropriate today, isn't it?

0:09:25 > 0:09:28- Spectacular.- And the only thing better than a beautiful gorge is one

0:09:28 > 0:09:30- with a railroad through it. - Absolutely.

0:09:41 > 0:09:45My Appletons' was enthusiastic about this railroad and tells me that,

0:09:45 > 0:09:48"through the Royal Gorge the track runs for 200ft

0:09:48 > 0:09:52"along an iron bridge suspended over the river

0:09:52 > 0:09:56"by steel girders mortised into the rock on either side."

0:09:56 > 0:09:58An amazing piece of construction.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01Absolutely. It's more remarkable that we're still using

0:10:01 > 0:10:04the same bridge 146 years later.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06This is beautiful. So this is actually

0:10:06 > 0:10:09fixed, bolted onto the rock.

0:10:10 > 0:10:13- It's remarkable.- It's one of the great thrills of travelling on a railroad.

0:10:13 > 0:10:18But, you know, it takes ingenuity to build rail roads in the West,

0:10:18 > 0:10:19and these men had vision.

0:10:21 > 0:10:25Palmer's Denver And Rio Grande Railroad continued its conquest of

0:10:25 > 0:10:27the Rockies and in 1883 connected

0:10:27 > 0:10:30with other lines to span the continent.

0:10:30 > 0:10:32Peaking at around 11,000 feet,

0:10:32 > 0:10:36it was for a short time America's highest mainline rail service.

0:10:38 > 0:10:44Sadly, Palmer's historic line was discontinued for passengers in 1967,

0:10:44 > 0:10:45leaving me high and dry.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50I need to get from Canon City to Colorado Springs,

0:10:50 > 0:10:52and unfortunately there is no train.

0:10:52 > 0:10:54But, luckily for me,

0:10:54 > 0:10:59there is a 1957 Ford two-door coupe going in my direction.

0:11:17 > 0:11:21On the eastern flank of the Rockies lies Colorado Springs,

0:11:21 > 0:11:24another creation of William Jackson Palmer.

0:11:32 > 0:11:35A good review in Appletons' for Colorado Springs.

0:11:35 > 0:11:39"A flourishing little city 6,000ft above the sea

0:11:39 > 0:11:41"with a fine view of the mountains.

0:11:41 > 0:11:46"It contains many fine residences and a pretty opera house.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49"In summer the days are warm without being uncomfortable,

0:11:49 > 0:11:51"and the night is always cool."

0:11:52 > 0:11:54The West doesn't sound very wild here.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57Indeed, it's almost British in its gentility.

0:12:01 > 0:12:05I've heard that the British influences stem from Palmer's co-founder,

0:12:05 > 0:12:08a London physician, Doctor William Bell,

0:12:08 > 0:12:11whose friends invested in this New World enterprise.

0:12:14 > 0:12:15On the banks of Fountain Creek,

0:12:15 > 0:12:18I'm visiting Bell's Victorian stately home,

0:12:18 > 0:12:22Breyer Hurst Manor, which became the social centre of its day.

0:12:25 > 0:12:27Matt Maybury is museum director.

0:12:33 > 0:12:39- So I believe this solid and rather opulent house was built by William Bell.- That's correct.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41Bell was a physician from Britain,

0:12:41 > 0:12:46came to the United States and formed a partnership with General William Jackson Palmer.

0:12:46 > 0:12:48Together they created the Denver And Rio Grande Railroad

0:12:48 > 0:12:53and they created the cities of Colorado Springs and neighbouring Manitou Springs.

0:12:55 > 0:13:00In 1868, Bell and Palmer were surveying the area for a railroad

0:13:00 > 0:13:03and fell for the scenery and the refreshing Manitou Springs.

0:13:05 > 0:13:08Palmer predicted a great resort at the base of Pikes Peak,

0:13:08 > 0:13:12and a year later purchased 9,000 acres on which to build.

0:13:13 > 0:13:18The Victorian spa was founded in 1871 and three months later

0:13:18 > 0:13:21the Denver And Rio Grande Railroad reached town.

0:13:21 > 0:13:25There was an interest in what the railroads could do to open up

0:13:25 > 0:13:28business opportunities in the West, to make community building possible,

0:13:28 > 0:13:31and to enrich yourself.

0:13:31 > 0:13:35Palmer expressed the vision as he wanted Colorado Springs to be

0:13:35 > 0:13:37the best place in the West to build a home.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40Yes, because I've come through places like Dodge City and I've been

0:13:40 > 0:13:42thinking about gunslingers,

0:13:42 > 0:13:45and here I find in my guidebook that there was an opera house here.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48So this is a very different sort of West.

0:13:48 > 0:13:49It is. And that was part of the vision,

0:13:49 > 0:13:54that this would not be your typical western town with gunfighters and saloons.

0:13:54 > 0:13:58In fact, alcohol was forbidden in Colorado Springs,

0:13:58 > 0:14:01you could not sell it and you could not open a saloon.

0:14:03 > 0:14:05Palmer built opulent hotels,

0:14:05 > 0:14:10developed the springs and marketed the resort's health benefits

0:14:10 > 0:14:12and rail link.

0:14:12 > 0:14:15Within a decade of its founding, Colorado Springs had become a famed retreat,

0:14:15 > 0:14:18welcoming 25,000 visitors each summer.

0:14:19 > 0:14:21The streets were broad,

0:14:21 > 0:14:24which was attractive to people who might come from the east,

0:14:24 > 0:14:27and it was a grid pattern, so it was very orderly.

0:14:27 > 0:14:31- Did it attract Europeans as well as people from the east of the United States?- It did.

0:14:31 > 0:14:33Many Europeans came to Colorado Springs.

0:14:33 > 0:14:37In fact, Colorado Springs had the nickname Little London because there

0:14:37 > 0:14:40were so many Brits who came here.

0:14:40 > 0:14:43Two of our most famous were Oscar Wilde,

0:14:43 > 0:14:44who performed in our opera house,

0:14:44 > 0:14:47and Charles Kingsley, the famous author.

0:14:53 > 0:14:57Bell's British investors visited to see the fruits of their speculation,

0:14:57 > 0:14:59as did British backers of Palmer's railroad.

0:15:01 > 0:15:06By the late 1880s, Little London had 2,000 English residents.

0:15:06 > 0:15:10Anglophilia help this elite enclave to flourish

0:15:10 > 0:15:12with schools and gentlemen's clubs.

0:15:14 > 0:15:18I hear that, incongruous as it seems, they had a cricket club,

0:15:18 > 0:15:20and that's exactly where I'm heading.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24'It may not be Lord's, but I'm up for a game.'

0:15:56 > 0:16:01East of downtown, at Memorial Park, the Colorado Springs Cricket Club,

0:16:01 > 0:16:04or Titans, practise twice weekly in the season

0:16:04 > 0:16:08and maintain a respectable rank in the Colorado league.

0:16:16 > 0:16:18- Howzat!- Howzat!

0:16:22 > 0:16:24- Well played.- Thank you, guys.

0:16:24 > 0:16:27I'm afraid I may have let the side down.

0:16:27 > 0:16:29You may have noticed, I'm not much of a cricketer,

0:16:29 > 0:16:33but I am impressed that you have had a cricket club here in Colorado Springs

0:16:33 > 0:16:35since the late 19th century.

0:16:35 > 0:16:37That's fantastic. And obviously you keep it going today.

0:16:37 > 0:16:41- Yes, we do.- There's about 12 clubs here in Colorado.

0:16:41 > 0:16:44And there's a couple that come down from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

0:16:44 > 0:16:46So, yeah, we've got a lot of cricket going on here.

0:16:46 > 0:16:49So that's a very different impression than people would have

0:16:49 > 0:16:53back in Europe, they would think cricket was extinct, at least in the far west.

0:16:54 > 0:16:56So you are very dedicated to it, aren't you?

0:16:56 > 0:17:03We are. This is the one sport that I love and this is the one physical

0:17:03 > 0:17:05activity that I think I'm really good at.

0:17:05 > 0:17:06Is he quite a useful player?

0:17:06 > 0:17:09Oh, yeah, he's one of the best players we have in the league right now.

0:17:09 > 0:17:11- Really?- A few hundreds to his name.

0:17:11 > 0:17:13And what about you?

0:17:13 > 0:17:16Me, well, I'm a bits and pieces player.

0:17:17 > 0:17:19From what nationalities is your team drawn?

0:17:19 > 0:17:23I'd say about 90% of our players are from India.

0:17:23 > 0:17:27We do have anywhere the British have touched,

0:17:27 > 0:17:32you know, we have the West Indians, Australians, South Africans,

0:17:32 > 0:17:34Sri Lankans, Pakistanis.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37Have you ever converted an American to cricket?

0:17:37 > 0:17:40We've converted one at least.

0:17:40 > 0:17:45He's not playing right now because he's a flight instructor,

0:17:45 > 0:17:48so when he's free he comes down and he gets to play.

0:17:48 > 0:17:52So I'm going to give you what is known as the cricket test.

0:17:52 > 0:17:53During your intervals,

0:17:53 > 0:17:56do you eat cucumber sandwiches with the crusts cut off?

0:17:56 > 0:17:59We don't, but we'd love to.

0:17:59 > 0:18:00What we do here is pizza.

0:18:00 > 0:18:02- Pizza?- Yeah.

0:18:02 > 0:18:03Yeah, this is America, isn't it?

0:18:23 > 0:18:28What a pleasure to wake up to Colorado Springs' warm climate

0:18:28 > 0:18:32and clean air, and to glimpse from town the most eastern peak in the Rockies.

0:18:34 > 0:18:39Named after the explorer Zebulon Pike, who discovered it in 1806,

0:18:39 > 0:18:43it inspired an American patriotic hymn still popular today.

0:18:43 > 0:18:48# ..for spacious skies

0:18:48 > 0:18:52# For amber waves of grain

0:18:52 > 0:18:58# For purple mountain majesties

0:18:58 > 0:19:03# Above the fruited plain

0:19:03 > 0:19:08# America, America

0:19:08 > 0:19:13# God shed his grace on thee

0:19:13 > 0:19:19# And crown thy good with brotherhood

0:19:19 > 0:19:25# From sea to shining sea. #

0:19:25 > 0:19:27Thank you very much, choir and Gary for that.

0:19:27 > 0:19:30- Thank you, sir. - Beautiful, beautiful words.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32- Who wrote them?- Katherine Lee Bates.

0:19:32 > 0:19:35And her statue is right behind us.

0:19:35 > 0:19:37And what is her connection with Colorado Springs?

0:19:37 > 0:19:41Well, she was visiting Colorado College and took an excursion to

0:19:41 > 0:19:46the top of Pikes Peak and was inspired by the vistas and penned America The Beautiful.

0:19:46 > 0:19:50Katherine Lee Bates was professor of English literature at

0:19:50 > 0:19:52Wellesley College in Massachusetts.

0:19:52 > 0:19:57In 1893, she travelled 2,000 miles across America for a summer job.

0:19:57 > 0:20:01Her journey up and view of Pikes Peak stirred her to write about

0:20:01 > 0:20:05the nation's greatness from sea to shining sea,

0:20:05 > 0:20:08and to appeal to its people's brotherhood.

0:20:08 > 0:20:12I mean, obviously it's a terrific celebration of the American landscape.

0:20:12 > 0:20:14Does it mean more than that to you?

0:20:14 > 0:20:18It does to me, personally, and I think to a lot of Americans.

0:20:18 > 0:20:21It speaks of the bounty of America,

0:20:21 > 0:20:24how fortunate we are to live on this continent.

0:20:24 > 0:20:27But I know she was thinking about the goodness of America and what

0:20:27 > 0:20:29the people and the nation stand for.

0:20:29 > 0:20:31Because the nation exists only because of the people.

0:20:31 > 0:20:35Yeah, it appears mainly to be about geography, amber fields of wheat,

0:20:35 > 0:20:36purple mountains majesty.

0:20:36 > 0:20:39- Yes.- But "crown thy good with brotherhood."

0:20:39 > 0:20:41What do you think she had in mind?

0:20:41 > 0:20:47Well, I think she was just reminding us that "crown thy good" -

0:20:47 > 0:20:49we presume we have good.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52But we have good because we CHOOSE to be good.

0:20:52 > 0:20:57And we are brothers in that goodness, and that is the essence of America.

0:20:57 > 0:21:01Do you think America has crowned its good with brotherhood?

0:21:01 > 0:21:04That is a very difficult question at these times.

0:21:04 > 0:21:07I will say that I believe in my heart

0:21:07 > 0:21:12that there is still a spirit of goodness and brotherhood in this country.

0:21:12 > 0:21:15I think we get very confused with rhetoric,

0:21:15 > 0:21:19we get very confused with doctrinal differences, but, in the end,

0:21:19 > 0:21:21we want to be good.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23And we do believe that we are all brothers and sisters.

0:21:23 > 0:21:29# Oh beautiful for patriots' dreams

0:21:29 > 0:21:35# That sees beyond the years... #

0:21:35 > 0:21:37With Bates's words in my heart,

0:21:37 > 0:21:40I make my way to the foot of the famous peak.

0:21:40 > 0:21:45# ..undimmed by human tears... #

0:21:52 > 0:21:55This is Manitou Springs, according to Appletons',

0:21:55 > 0:22:02"situated at the base of Pikes Peak and the centre of excursions in the district.

0:22:02 > 0:22:07"The summit of Pikes Peak is reached by a cog wheel railway.

0:22:07 > 0:22:11"Incredibly, the highest rack railway in the world.

0:22:11 > 0:22:18"The view, from 14,000 feet, embraces many thousand square miles."

0:22:18 > 0:22:23I hope that nothing will cloud my vista of America the beautiful.

0:22:28 > 0:22:30The Pikes Peak Cog Railway

0:22:30 > 0:22:33is one of the busiest trains I've travelled on so far.

0:22:33 > 0:22:40In operation since 1891, it climbs 14,115ft above sea level

0:22:40 > 0:22:42to the most visited mountain in North America.

0:22:44 > 0:22:46This is a rather special moment for me.

0:22:46 > 0:22:52I've been up the Gornergrat and the Jungfraujoch railways in Switzerland,

0:22:52 > 0:22:54which are extraordinarily impressive,

0:22:54 > 0:22:58but I come here to the United States and this one is going take me even higher.

0:23:00 > 0:23:01HORN BLOWS

0:23:04 > 0:23:06'Good afternoon, everybody,

0:23:06 > 0:23:10'and welcome aboard the Manitou And Pikes Peak Cog Railway.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13'I'd like to start today with introductions of the crew aboard.

0:23:13 > 0:23:15'At the front of our train is engineer Dick.

0:23:15 > 0:23:16'Everybody say, "Hi, Dick."

0:23:16 > 0:23:18- PASSENGERS:- Hi, Dick.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20'He's got a big job today, driving this train, 8.9 miles,

0:23:20 > 0:23:24'all the way to the summit of this mountain, as he's done so many times before.'

0:23:30 > 0:23:35Pikes Peak was a landmark for pioneers and explorers heading west

0:23:35 > 0:23:38to seek their fortune in the Colorado gold rush.

0:23:40 > 0:23:44Before the railway it was an arduous two-day ascent,

0:23:44 > 0:23:47and tourists would have travelled by horse-drawn carriage and mule

0:23:47 > 0:23:49to the summit.

0:23:53 > 0:23:55You see why you have to use a cog railway,

0:23:55 > 0:23:59because we're now moving up at incredible gradients,

0:23:59 > 0:24:00up to one in four,

0:24:00 > 0:24:04which means that for every four feet we go forward we're rising one foot

0:24:04 > 0:24:07in elevation. A cog underneath the train

0:24:07 > 0:24:10is engaging with the teeth in the track

0:24:10 > 0:24:16and so we're making steady but grinding progress up the mountain.

0:24:27 > 0:24:31The magnificent views which struck Katherine Bates from her carriage

0:24:31 > 0:24:36first opened up at Glen Cove, at around 11,500 feet.

0:24:38 > 0:24:39Oh!

0:24:46 > 0:24:49Even though I was prepared for this by the poem,

0:24:49 > 0:24:54by the song America The Beautiful, it comes as a surprise to see such

0:24:54 > 0:25:00an extraordinary extent of plain, stretching to the far horizon.

0:25:00 > 0:25:02I'm looking back here towards the state of Kansas,

0:25:02 > 0:25:06looking back over much of the journey that I've been making.

0:25:09 > 0:25:10- Hello, Steve.- Hello.

0:25:12 > 0:25:14It's a most impressive train ride, I must say.

0:25:14 > 0:25:17One of the greats, I think.

0:25:17 > 0:25:18Built in 1891, that's very early?

0:25:18 > 0:25:22- Whose idea was it? - Well, it was Zalman Simmons.

0:25:22 > 0:25:25He was an inventor and entrepreneur from Wisconsin.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28He'd come up here to check on one of his other inventions,

0:25:28 > 0:25:30part of a telegraph system,

0:25:30 > 0:25:33and when he got to the summit and he realised the view was so spectacular

0:25:33 > 0:25:35that a lot of people would like to see that.

0:25:35 > 0:25:36That's what gave him the good idea to do it.

0:25:36 > 0:25:40It took him three years, he did it over the course of 18 months, actually,

0:25:40 > 0:25:43throughout that three years. They didn't work during the wintertime.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46We still use the same trackbed, everything is still the same as it was.

0:25:46 > 0:25:49Now, to have a cog railway that goes even higher

0:25:49 > 0:25:51than any Swiss cog railway,

0:25:51 > 0:25:53that really is quite an achievement.

0:25:53 > 0:25:54It really is.

0:26:05 > 0:26:09And the railway saves its most extraordinary moment for last.

0:26:09 > 0:26:14As we come towards the summit, we have this 3,000ft drop over to

0:26:14 > 0:26:16my right, and the train just looks as if it's going to

0:26:16 > 0:26:18peek off the top of the mountain.

0:26:22 > 0:26:28Oh, my word. We are going to the very edge.

0:26:28 > 0:26:30That's unbelievable.

0:26:42 > 0:26:45Appletons' visitors would have been awestruck.

0:26:45 > 0:26:48As are the hundreds of thousands who visit annually today.

0:26:48 > 0:26:52The view across five states, Colorado, Kansas, Oklahoma,

0:26:52 > 0:26:56Wyoming and New Mexico, is breathtaking.

0:27:15 > 0:27:20By the time that Katherine Lee Bates, inspired by these views,

0:27:20 > 0:27:24wrote about the grandeur and bounty of these lands

0:27:24 > 0:27:27in her poem America The Beautiful,

0:27:27 > 0:27:29the West had been civilised.

0:27:29 > 0:27:33But the United States had fought a Civil War over slavery,

0:27:33 > 0:27:36and remained bitterly divided.

0:27:36 > 0:27:39It was, perhaps, as a socialist and a feminist,

0:27:39 > 0:27:44that she wrote yearningly of her country, "God mend thine every flaw,

0:27:44 > 0:27:48"and crown thy good with brotherhood."

0:27:48 > 0:27:52Many Americans today would echo her wishes.

0:27:55 > 0:28:00Next time, I discover how the elements add to opera's drama...

0:28:00 > 0:28:03It would be a shame to enclose the theatre

0:28:03 > 0:28:07when we are surrounded by such incredible natural beauty.

0:28:07 > 0:28:10..uncover Santa Fe's historic past...

0:28:10 > 0:28:15It's the longest continuously occupied public building in the whole of the United States.

0:28:15 > 0:28:19..and take up a special invitation to an ancient Native American site.

0:28:20 > 0:28:22How long has there been a settlement up here?

0:28:22 > 0:28:24We've been here since the beginning of time.