0:00:02 > 0:00:07I have crossed the Atlantic to ride the railroads of North America
0:00:07 > 0:00:10with my faithful Appleton's guide.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15Published in the late 19th century,
0:00:15 > 0:00:18it will direct me to everything that's novel, beautiful,
0:00:19 > 0:00:21memorable and curious
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- in the United States. ALL:- Yee-ha!
0:00:25 > 0:00:32As I travel through this vast continent, I'll discover gold
0:00:32 > 0:00:36and silver, movies and microchips, oil and oranges,
0:00:36 > 0:00:39and learn how America's most famous railroad
0:00:39 > 0:00:43conquered the wild landscapes of the West.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24My rail journey through California brings me to the Pacific coast.
0:01:24 > 0:01:29Before the railroads conquered the Sierra Nevada to join the Atlantic
0:01:29 > 0:01:33and Pacific Oceans overland, the Pacific ports were the link
0:01:33 > 0:01:37between the American far west and the rest of the world.
0:01:37 > 0:01:42The Gold Rush overnight converted the old Spanish mission
0:01:42 > 0:01:47at San Francisco into a major city, wide open to immigration,
0:01:47 > 0:01:52with a diversity of population that continues to this day.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59My route has taken me over the Sierra Nevada Mountains,
0:01:59 > 0:02:01via the vineyards
0:02:01 > 0:02:05of the Napa Valley to today's destination, San Francisco.
0:02:05 > 0:02:10From here, I'll travel inland to the majestic natural surrounds
0:02:10 > 0:02:12of Yosemite National Park.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16I'll then make my way along the Pacific coast, visiting Monterey
0:02:16 > 0:02:21and San Luis Obispo en route to the City of Angels,
0:02:21 > 0:02:26Los Angeles. My final destination, just north of the Mexican border,
0:02:26 > 0:02:28will be San Diego.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32Today, I'm in the city of San Francisco, taking in
0:02:32 > 0:02:37the neighbourhoods of Nob Hill, Presidio, and Fisherman's Wharf.
0:02:37 > 0:02:42I'll ride a Love Bus from Haight Ashbury to the Castro,
0:02:42 > 0:02:45sailing to a close in San Francisco Bay.
0:02:47 > 0:02:52Along the way, I enjoy the 19th-century transport still in use
0:02:52 > 0:02:56today. Top ten things for the tourist to do in San Francisco -
0:02:56 > 0:02:59number one, ride the cable car.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03I learn of a 19th-century ship-builder whose innovations
0:03:03 > 0:03:08- made waves...- He built 228 ships in a 40-year period.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12Yeah, he built more ships in that period than anybody in the United States.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16..and discover some unexpected early legislation.
0:03:16 > 0:03:21You had the anti-crossdressing law passed in San Francisco in 1863.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25Anti-crossdressing legislation in 1863, I had no idea!
0:03:35 > 0:03:39San Francisco sits on a peninsular,
0:03:39 > 0:03:42with the Pacific Ocean to its west and a huge,
0:03:42 > 0:03:45deep bay to its north and east,
0:03:45 > 0:03:48which is spanned by both the Oakland Bay Bridge
0:03:48 > 0:03:50and the iconic Golden Gate Bridge.
0:03:52 > 0:03:56I've been making rail journeys in North America now for three years
0:03:56 > 0:03:57and this is a special moment,
0:03:57 > 0:04:01my first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04Imagine those people arriving from the east,
0:04:04 > 0:04:08descending from the first trains of the Transcontinental Railroad.
0:04:08 > 0:04:14Here was the achievement of the United States' manifest destiny
0:04:14 > 0:04:17to control the continent from ocean to ocean.
0:04:17 > 0:04:23It had taken a Mexican war, Indian wars, Indian massacres.
0:04:23 > 0:04:28With all its rights and wrongs, the American epic was complete.
0:04:34 > 0:04:39San Francisco was established almost overnight as a result
0:04:39 > 0:04:42of the Californian Gold Rush, which began in 1848.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46Today, it's a thriving, modern city.
0:04:46 > 0:04:51A hub for global tech companies, and an important financial centre.
0:04:56 > 0:04:57San Francisco, says Appleton's,
0:04:57 > 0:05:01is the chief city of California and the commercial metropolis
0:05:01 > 0:05:05of the Pacific. Its history is interesting, on account of the rapid
0:05:05 > 0:05:10growth of the place. In 1848, the population reached 1,000.
0:05:10 > 0:05:16In 1890, the census showed a population of 299,000.
0:05:16 > 0:05:22I find the city beautiful, exhilarating, zany, and outrageous.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29It's also exceptionally hilly, with over 40 peaks,
0:05:29 > 0:05:32some reaching heights of nearly 1,000 feet.
0:05:34 > 0:05:36They are the city's defining feature.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38And one of its challenges.
0:05:40 > 0:05:41And in the late 19th century,
0:05:41 > 0:05:44a form of transport was invented to conquer them.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50"Cable cars," says Appleton's,
0:05:50 > 0:05:53"have been widely extended during the last few years.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56"They afford the best means of seeing the city,
0:05:56 > 0:06:00"as one may ride in the open air and obtain as good a view
0:06:00 > 0:06:02"as from an open carriage."
0:06:02 > 0:06:06And the cables actually run here, under the street.
0:06:06 > 0:06:11And that cable, you can hear it whirring, is in continuous movement.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14And the cable cars grip it when they want to move.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20The cable car is an icon of the city.
0:06:20 > 0:06:23And San Francisco has the last
0:06:23 > 0:06:26manually-operated street cable car system in the world.
0:06:32 > 0:06:35I'm catching a ride to my first stop, Nob Hill.
0:06:39 > 0:06:42Top ten things for the tourist to do in San Francisco -
0:06:42 > 0:06:44number one, ride the cable car.
0:07:00 > 0:07:06OK, guys, if you look on my right side, that's the Freeman Hotel.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10Cable Car Museum, two blocks down. This is called Nob Hill.
0:07:10 > 0:07:12Thank you very much.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15All right, guys, have a good day, enjoy yourself.
0:07:15 > 0:07:17- Bye-bye, now.- Yes, sir.
0:07:19 > 0:07:26Of the 23 lines established between 1873 and 1890, three remain.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30And their cables are controlled from a single powerhouse.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36It's an astonishing feat of engineering,
0:07:36 > 0:07:38that's managed by Ed Cobean.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- Hello, Ed.- Michael, how are you?
0:07:40 > 0:07:42We meet in an impressive place.
0:07:42 > 0:07:48We've got about 4.5 to six miles of cable traversing on three different
0:07:48 > 0:07:51routes, but on four different cable lines.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54And how old is the system? Which year did it open?
0:07:54 > 0:07:59The system is 144 years old this week, built in 1873.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02Why was it thought necessary to have this very distinctive San Francisco
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- system?- There needed to be a way of public transportation up the hills.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09Back in the late 1800s, what you had was horse-drawn
0:08:09 > 0:08:13carriages that couldn't traverse the cobble stone streets
0:08:13 > 0:08:16when it was raining without them sliding back.
0:08:16 > 0:08:18So you've had cable cars in San Francisco
0:08:18 > 0:08:20for about a century and a half.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23How would you describe their contribution to the city?
0:08:23 > 0:08:26I think it is what makes San Francisco.
0:08:26 > 0:08:31It's the only moving national historic monument in the world.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34Everything that we have here exists nowhere else.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36So everybody comes to San Francisco
0:08:36 > 0:08:38and wants to see and ride the cable cars.
0:08:46 > 0:08:50I'm making my way down to an area known as Fisherman's Wharf,
0:08:50 > 0:08:54which, in the 19th century, was a hub for immigrant fishermen,
0:08:54 > 0:08:57who came to service the Gold Rush population.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00Some went on to set up eateries.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03And I'm taking my lunch at a family-run restaurant
0:09:03 > 0:09:06that claims to be the oldest in San Francisco.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13- Marella.- Michael.- Lovely to see you. - Thanks for joining us.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16Alioto's must be quite a long-established restaurant, is it?
0:09:16 > 0:09:18- It is.- A family concern? - It is family-owned.
0:09:18 > 0:09:20My great-grandmother started it with her family,
0:09:20 > 0:09:23it's kind of been passed on through the generations,
0:09:23 > 0:09:25- and I'm the fourth generation. - And since you are the
0:09:25 > 0:09:28great-granddaughter of the person who founded it,
0:09:28 > 0:09:30you're the right person to ask - what should I eat today?
0:09:30 > 0:09:33Cioppino, of course. It is our tradition.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36It is a Dungeness crab stew, and there's a little bit
0:09:36 > 0:09:39of tomato sauce, mussels, clams, shrimp, whitefish...
0:09:39 > 0:09:41I'm sold! I'll have that please, Marella.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43- You got it.- Thank you.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52All right, Michael.
0:09:53 > 0:09:57Oh, that's amazing, Marella. So, this will be the Dungeness crab.
0:09:57 > 0:09:59It's amazing. The sweetest meat you will taste.
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- Oh, what's this?- A little bit of a bib to protect your shirt.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- Let me do that for you. - This could get messy!
0:10:07 > 0:10:09It will! And worth it.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12Thank you very much. A great recommendation, Marella.
0:10:12 > 0:10:14- Enjoy, Michael.- I will.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38As restaurants and businesses sprang up to serve the needs
0:10:38 > 0:10:41of the Gold Rush population, industries new to the West boomed.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44And printing was one of them.
0:10:45 > 0:10:50Today, San Francisco is the main centre for fine printing
0:10:50 > 0:10:52and bookmaking in the United States.
0:10:53 > 0:10:58I've come to the Presidio neighbourhood to visit a leading publisher, Arion Press,
0:10:58 > 0:11:02where I'm meeting Gary Kurtz of the California State Library.
0:11:04 > 0:11:07Gary, at the time of the Gold Rush, when newspapers and so on would have
0:11:07 > 0:11:10to come from the East around Cape Horn to California,
0:11:10 > 0:11:14how did San Francisco respond to the lack of printing material here?
0:11:14 > 0:11:15Well, there were many,
0:11:15 > 0:11:18many people who came to California who were printers.
0:11:18 > 0:11:24They quickly found out that going up and digging for gold was not easy
0:11:24 > 0:11:28work, and they found that they could make a living as a printer.
0:11:28 > 0:11:29What is it that you have here?
0:11:29 > 0:11:34OK, what we have here is a unique form of communication developed
0:11:34 > 0:11:37in California called the pictorial letter sheet.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41And all of these miners were thousands of miles from home,
0:11:41 > 0:11:45and they wanted to tell their mothers and daughters and their
0:11:45 > 0:11:49wives how they were doing, and some people have speculated that this
0:11:49 > 0:11:52was a precursor of the picture postcard.
0:11:54 > 0:11:59Printing became a major industry, as new San Franciscans demanded
0:11:59 > 0:12:02newspapers, books, posters and menus.
0:12:05 > 0:12:07Still using processes from that period,
0:12:07 > 0:12:11Arion is one of the last remaining printers still to cast
0:12:11 > 0:12:13its own typeface characters.
0:12:17 > 0:12:19This is the most fascinating corridor.
0:12:19 > 0:12:24These brown paper parcels are packages of fonts, which have been
0:12:24 > 0:12:26manufactured here for sale.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29Capital letters, lower-case letters, italics.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32And here, drawers - rows and rows of drawers.
0:12:32 > 0:12:37Inside, all those letters that the compositors can put together.
0:12:39 > 0:12:42I'm meeting publisher Andrew Hoyem,
0:12:42 > 0:12:46who sets complete works of literature one letter at a time.
0:12:46 > 0:12:48Hello, Andrew. I'm Michael.
0:12:48 > 0:12:51- Greetings, Michael. - Good to see you, sir.
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- What is it you're setting here? - It's called The Bridge.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57It's a great modernist poem by Hart Crane.
0:12:57 > 0:12:59So, the line I've just been setting says,
0:12:59 > 0:13:06"The Bridge is the 110th publication of the Arion Press."
0:13:06 > 0:13:10- And you've just read that to me... - Upside down and mirror image.
0:13:10 > 0:13:13So, I know The Bridge pretty well by now!
0:13:14 > 0:13:19But may I ask you, why would you want to use the printing technology
0:13:19 > 0:13:20of a previous century today?
0:13:20 > 0:13:24You get results you can't obtain any other way.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28Are those results that a layman could spot,
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- or is this a matter for experts? - Even you!
0:13:33 > 0:13:38You could. You will see not only the inked image,
0:13:38 > 0:13:42but also something of the ever so slight indentation.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44OK, I'm beginning to get the idea.
0:13:47 > 0:13:52Once the type is set, a test copy is made, known as a proof press.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54I think you've got a tiny...
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- We do, good eye. - ..a tiny imperfection here.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00We can clean that up and take another proof.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05It looks like probably it's just some...rag.
0:14:12 > 0:14:18Well, now, at least to my untrained eye, it does appear to be perfect.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22And, as Andrew implied, it makes a little indentation on the paper.
0:14:22 > 0:14:24I must say, I love this.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26I love this. What superb craftsmanship.
0:14:29 > 0:14:34As my entire journey has been inspired by my own 19th-century
0:14:34 > 0:14:39book, I'm keen to get an expert opinion of my beloved Appleton's.
0:14:39 > 0:14:43This book was almost certainly set entirely by hand.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46Are you impressed by my Appleton's guide?
0:14:47 > 0:14:51I'm impressed at the amount of work that went into it.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54I would not say it was one of the most beautiful books I've ever seen
0:14:54 > 0:14:55in my life!
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- But it's practical.- And it's served me very well, let me tell you.- Yes, I'll bet.
0:15:28 > 0:15:33San Francisco has a long history of displaying liberal attitudes
0:15:33 > 0:15:35and setting its own rules.
0:15:35 > 0:15:40And this morning, I'm making my way to the neighbourhood at the heart
0:15:40 > 0:15:42of this alternative spirit - Haight Ashbury.
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- Sir, hello. What are you selling here?- All sorts of stuff.
0:15:53 > 0:15:58I've got Mexican fire opal, these emeralds are from Muzo, Colombia.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01Chinese jade. A bunch of different things.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04You certainly know your stuff. What do your fingers say?
0:16:04 > 0:16:07Slow down! It's the best words of advice I never live by!
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- All right.- Really nice to talk to you.- Take it easy.- Bye-bye.
0:16:15 > 0:16:17This is a fantastically weird place.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25It was in San Francisco
0:16:25 > 0:16:29where the hippie movement of the 1960s took off.
0:16:29 > 0:16:34And I'm meeting guide Alan Graves and taking a ride in his vintage
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- Love Bus.- Michael, come right in. Good to see you. Welcome aboard.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41- Thank you so much. What a wagon! - Yes!
0:16:44 > 0:16:48All right, here we go, lean forward and we might make it up the hill!
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- Is this male or female, this van? - American Pie's female.
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- Female... Come on, girl! Come on, girl!- Here we go!- You can make it!
0:16:57 > 0:17:00- We're full steam ahead going out here.- You certainly are.
0:17:08 > 0:17:11- Woo-hoo!- We made it! - Well done, American Pie.
0:17:15 > 0:17:19I'm led to believe that San Francisco's liberal roots
0:17:19 > 0:17:22began long before the 1960s.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26In 1849, this region was inundated with prospectors arriving in pursuit
0:17:26 > 0:17:29of gold, known as the '49ers.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34Those days when the '49ers were coming here,
0:17:34 > 0:17:36they were coming from all over the world.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39And it created what San Francisco is today, a melting pot of people.
0:17:40 > 0:17:42What kind of stuff goes down?
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- What's tolerated?- Well, that's a very interesting question.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50I mean, about 90% of them were males that came here to San Francisco.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52There was too many males, not enough women,
0:17:52 > 0:17:55and it was a place where people were a little bit more free-spirited,
0:17:55 > 0:17:57if you will. There was tolerance about everything.
0:18:00 > 0:18:05That broad-minded culture has remained a feature of San Franciscan
0:18:05 > 0:18:10society, and over 100 years later, it provided fertile ground
0:18:10 > 0:18:13for the free love phenomenon of the 1960s.
0:18:13 > 0:18:171967, the Summer of Love.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21Why is it that the bra-burning women and the guys in their hippie wagons
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- descended on San Francisco?- You know, by that time, San Francisco
0:18:25 > 0:18:29was a very well-established place, as a Bohemian place.
0:18:29 > 0:18:31Janis Joplin, Jerry Garcia,
0:18:31 > 0:18:33Jimi Hendrix would come out here from time to time.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37They got together here in the park and they started playing music and
0:18:37 > 0:18:40they sort of said, "Hey, guys, maybe we should have a concert."
0:18:40 > 0:18:44And that they did in 1967. They started out the Summer of Love
0:18:44 > 0:18:48concert, and the word got spread wide throughout the United States.
0:18:48 > 0:18:54Over 100,000 people showed up to the Haight Ashbury district to be part
0:18:54 > 0:18:58of that movement that created, as we know it today, the hippie movement
0:18:58 > 0:19:00that kind of changed, not just San Francisco,
0:19:00 > 0:19:03but it actually changed the mentalities worldwide.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13And here we are in the Castro district, our gayborhood.
0:19:14 > 0:19:17When I was Defence Secretary, I did not foresee that, 20 years
0:19:17 > 0:19:20later, I would be travelling in a hippie Love Bus
0:19:20 > 0:19:22through the Castro gayborhood!
0:19:24 > 0:19:26We'll stop right over here.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- Peace.- Peace, mate, we'll see you around.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31Bye-bye, now.
0:19:33 > 0:19:37The Free Love movement spilled over from Haight Ashbury to the
0:19:37 > 0:19:39neighbouring Castro district,
0:19:39 > 0:19:44which, from the late 1960s, established itself as a proud,
0:19:44 > 0:19:48gay-friendly area. In the Castro, rainbow flags everywhere,
0:19:48 > 0:19:50even a rainbow pedestrian crossing.
0:19:52 > 0:19:53The roots of this liberal,
0:19:53 > 0:19:59sexually-diverse community can also be traced back to the 19th century.
0:19:59 > 0:20:03I'm meeting Don Romesburg of the GLBT History Museum.
0:20:05 > 0:20:09- Hello, Don. Hi. I'm Michael. - Hi, nice to meet you.
0:20:09 > 0:20:12So, here we are in the Castro. Tell me about the gay scene.
0:20:12 > 0:20:15- How did it get going? - That goes all the way back to,
0:20:15 > 0:20:18like, the Gold Rush era.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22You had miners in mostly same-sex communities who would have dances
0:20:22 > 0:20:25together, and someone would take on the female role.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29And they even had, like, these wooden skirts sometimes that the men
0:20:29 > 0:20:32would wear. So, from the very beginning of the Gold Rush days,
0:20:32 > 0:20:36there was some kind of what we would call a queer community here.
0:20:36 > 0:20:41We also had very flamboyant drag and female impersonation in 19th-century
0:20:41 > 0:20:45San Francisco. But then you also had the anti-crossdressing law passed in
0:20:45 > 0:20:48San Francisco in 1863.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51It wasn't repealed until 1974, I believe it was.
0:20:51 > 0:20:55Anti-crossdressing legislation in 1863, I had no idea!
0:20:55 > 0:20:58We're sitting here in Twin Peaks Tavern.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02And this became a gay bar in the early 1970s.
0:21:02 > 0:21:05It is thought to be the first gay bar in the world that had these big,
0:21:05 > 0:21:08open glass windows.
0:21:08 > 0:21:12And it's significant because it expresses the openness of the '70s
0:21:12 > 0:21:14in San Francisco and in the Castro.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21Before I leave the Castro, I've been invited to a, wait for it...
0:21:21 > 0:21:27..Drag brunch, by Sister Roma of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence,
0:21:27 > 0:21:32a fundraising community group founded in 1979.
0:21:33 > 0:21:35Hello there, Michael, it's so nice to meet you.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- May I ask you, is this your habit? - Well, this is a bad habit!
0:21:39 > 0:21:42But, yes, this is mine. I'm just a glamour girl,
0:21:42 > 0:21:44I've got a lot of Vegas in me.
0:21:44 > 0:21:48So, the Sisters, how do you raise money and what are you trying to do?
0:21:48 > 0:21:51The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence started here in San Francisco
0:21:51 > 0:21:54in 1979, and it basically began as a sort of guerrilla theatre.
0:21:54 > 0:21:57People just wanted to go out and shock some people.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01The early Sisters were just doing it to have fun here in the Castro.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04Shortly after that, HIV and AIDS started to ravage the community,
0:22:04 > 0:22:06and the Sisters really found their purpose.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10We developed a safer sex pamphlet called Playfair,
0:22:10 > 0:22:11which we still use today,
0:22:11 > 0:22:14and did the first fundraiser ever to raise money for people who were sick
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- and dying with HIV and AIDS. - Congratulations on your good work.
0:22:18 > 0:22:22- Thank you very much.- May the Sisters prosper.- Thank you.
0:22:23 > 0:22:26Welcome to Lips and Lashes, I am your hostess.
0:22:26 > 0:22:30Are you guys ready for something a little drag, or what?
0:23:11 > 0:23:16From the Castro, I made my way to the waterfront
0:23:16 > 0:23:19to take a ferry across the bay to the city of Sausalito.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27Appleton's tells me that steamers of the North Pacific Coast Railroad
0:23:27 > 0:23:33Company carry their passengers towards Alcatraz and to Sausalito,
0:23:33 > 0:23:38a popular bay-side resort famous for boating, bathing and fishing.
0:23:38 > 0:23:41I'm going there in search of a face,
0:23:41 > 0:23:45whose prowess launched several hundreds ships.
0:23:48 > 0:23:54During the Gold Rush years of the 1800s, ships were in huge demand,
0:23:54 > 0:23:57to transport large volumes of goods
0:23:57 > 0:24:00and people in and out of the busy port.
0:24:04 > 0:24:09I'm boarding an 82-foot schooner with veteran skipper Alan Olson
0:24:09 > 0:24:13to find out about the most prolific shipbuilder of the time,
0:24:13 > 0:24:14Matthew Turner.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18And it's all hands on deck.
0:24:18 > 0:24:22Hello, Kate. Are you ready to bobble the sail?
0:24:22 > 0:24:25- I'm ready.- All right. - All the way.- OK.
0:24:28 > 0:24:31We're getting some rhythm here, Kate.
0:24:31 > 0:24:33We can start pulling together.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36- All right, one more good one.- OK.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43Are we done?
0:24:43 > 0:24:45We're done. Tug's up.
0:24:56 > 0:25:00Alan, tell me about this historic figure Matthew Turner.
0:25:00 > 0:25:02Matthew Turner was a very important figure.
0:25:02 > 0:25:05He came from Ohio during the Gold Rush.
0:25:05 > 0:25:07And he was quite successful,
0:25:07 > 0:25:09but he decided to take the money and invest in a ship.
0:25:09 > 0:25:13And he went off into Alaska and he discovered the cod trade.
0:25:13 > 0:25:14He wanted another ship,
0:25:14 > 0:25:18but decided he'd have it designed and built the way he wanted it.
0:25:18 > 0:25:20And from that, he just kept going.
0:25:20 > 0:25:23He built 228 ships in a 40-year period.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26Yeah, he built more ships in that period than anybody in the United
0:25:26 > 0:25:30- States.- These ships that Matthew Turner was building, what were the trades that they were involved in?
0:25:30 > 0:25:34Almost everything, the lumber trade was huge because all the lumber up and down the coast,
0:25:34 > 0:25:38that was the only way to get anything around. They were also doing the sugar trade in Hawaii.
0:25:38 > 0:25:42They were going sometimes as quickly as nine days, 13 days,
0:25:42 > 0:25:45they would turn around and go back and forth in less than a month.
0:25:47 > 0:25:49Taking ideas from racing schooners,
0:25:49 > 0:25:53Turner's designs narrowed the bow of the boat,
0:25:53 > 0:25:57making it faster and more stable than other ships of the time,
0:25:57 > 0:25:59and thus hugely popular.
0:26:01 > 0:26:02For the last four years,
0:26:02 > 0:26:05Alan has headed a project to build a boat
0:26:05 > 0:26:09based on Turner's record-breaking ship, the Galilee.
0:26:09 > 0:26:12Named the Matthew Turner, and almost complete,
0:26:12 > 0:26:16it will be used as an educational sailing programme for children.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19When you get out on a sailing ship, every move you make,
0:26:19 > 0:26:22when you grab a line like that, if you don't do it right,
0:26:22 > 0:26:24your shipmates and your ship is at stake.
0:26:24 > 0:26:28So I think giving them that kind of responsibility is a very empowering
0:26:28 > 0:26:30- thing.- When do you think it will take to the seas?
0:26:30 > 0:26:34Early summer. Our plan is to take the ship on the Pacific Cup
0:26:34 > 0:26:36- from here to Hawaii.- Wow!
0:26:36 > 0:26:39- You'll look forward to that day. - Oh, I'm looking forward to it,
0:26:39 > 0:26:41a lot of us are. It's going to be a big day.
0:27:00 > 0:27:04The United States, between the East Coast and the Mississippi,
0:27:04 > 0:27:05was already a mature economy
0:27:05 > 0:27:09and culture when San Francisco was still a village.
0:27:09 > 0:27:14But this city's exponential population growth from 1848
0:27:14 > 0:27:15was already well under way
0:27:15 > 0:27:19before the Transcontinental Railroad was completed.
0:27:19 > 0:27:24So, unlike the East, that was built on waves of European migration,
0:27:24 > 0:27:29many of those coming into San Francisco were from Latin America
0:27:29 > 0:27:34and from China, and whereas in the East, the settlement was supervised
0:27:34 > 0:27:37by severe Protestant sects,
0:27:37 > 0:27:43those arriving into lawless northern California made their own rules.
0:27:43 > 0:27:48East is East, and West is West, and the twain have never fully met.
0:27:53 > 0:27:58Next time, I'm branded with misfortune by a fortune cookie...
0:27:58 > 0:28:01Argh! My hands are burning! Ow, ow!
0:28:03 > 0:28:06I learn of an extraordinary civil rights case...
0:28:06 > 0:28:08It was in all the newspapers,
0:28:08 > 0:28:11that an African-American would have the audacity to sue one of the most
0:28:11 > 0:28:15politically-connected, richest families in Northern California
0:28:15 > 0:28:19- for discrimination. - ..and turn my hand to handball.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22I'm going to have a cardiac arrest.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25I'll leave my heart in San Francisco!