Warsaw to Krakow - Part 2

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0:00:03 > 0:00:06I'm embarking on a new railway adventure

0:00:06 > 0:00:08that will take me across the heart of Europe.

0:00:11 > 0:00:15I'll be using this, my Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide,

0:00:15 > 0:00:20dated 1913, which opened up an exotic world of foreign travel

0:00:20 > 0:00:21for the British tourist.

0:00:23 > 0:00:25It told travellers where to go, what to see,

0:00:25 > 0:00:29and how to navigate the thousands of miles of tracks

0:00:29 > 0:00:31criss-crossing the continent.

0:00:31 > 0:00:32Now, a century later,

0:00:32 > 0:00:37I'm using my copy to reveal an era of great optimism and energy

0:00:37 > 0:00:42where technology, industry, science and the arts were flourishing.

0:00:42 > 0:00:45I want to rediscover that lost Europe

0:00:45 > 0:00:49that in 1913 couldn't know that its way of life

0:00:49 > 0:00:52would shortly be swept aside by the advent of war.

0:01:05 > 0:01:08I'm continuing my journey through Poland,

0:01:08 > 0:01:11which began in the capital Warsaw

0:01:11 > 0:01:13and continued to Lodz.

0:01:13 > 0:01:15Today, I'll head west to Poznan,

0:01:15 > 0:01:17then south to Wroclaw.

0:01:19 > 0:01:22And end in the ancient capital of Krakow.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28Following my guidebook, I'll cross the old border to Poznan

0:01:28 > 0:01:30for my first taste of Polish lands

0:01:30 > 0:01:33that were once ruled by the German empire.

0:01:41 > 0:01:47Bradshaw's Guide 1913 contained a railway map of Europe

0:01:47 > 0:01:52and a picture is worth a thousand words, as they say. Here we are.

0:01:52 > 0:01:55This is Russian Poland and it appears as a white blank

0:01:55 > 0:01:59on the map because the Russians had built very few railways.

0:01:59 > 0:02:03By contrast, here in German Poland, well, it's absolutely black

0:02:03 > 0:02:06with railway lines, running in all directions.

0:02:06 > 0:02:09For my next destination, I have to move away from

0:02:09 > 0:02:13the Russian section in Bradshaw's to the German section.

0:02:13 > 0:02:17More precisely, "The German empire or Deutsches Reich, consists of

0:02:17 > 0:02:21"the following 25 States in order of magnitude," and then Prussia

0:02:21 > 0:02:24is listed first. In those days,

0:02:24 > 0:02:28Prussia included Posen, or Polish Poznan.

0:02:28 > 0:02:33"It's the oldest of Polish towns and a strong fortified place."

0:02:33 > 0:02:36Well, of course it was. It was very strategically important.

0:02:36 > 0:02:39It was on the eastern frontier of Germany

0:02:39 > 0:02:43and I'm going there to find out how, to shore up German power,

0:02:43 > 0:02:46the Polish territory was Germanified.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51I'm travelling 130 miles northwest

0:02:51 > 0:02:55to Poznan Glowny station, built in 1879

0:02:55 > 0:02:57in what was the heart of German Poland.

0:02:59 > 0:03:03I'll leave it to the morning to tour this fortress city.

0:03:17 > 0:03:20Poznan is a good place to start my exploration

0:03:20 > 0:03:22of the German partition.

0:03:22 > 0:03:25It's one of the oldest cities in Poland

0:03:25 > 0:03:27with roots in the early Middle Ages.

0:03:27 > 0:03:31My guidebook tells me that there's a particularly noble building here,

0:03:31 > 0:03:33dating from the 15th century.

0:03:36 > 0:03:38The Rathaus referred to in my Bradshaw's guide

0:03:38 > 0:03:41turns out to be a glorious Renaissance town hall

0:03:41 > 0:03:44and there's a legend that many, many years ago,

0:03:44 > 0:03:47a couple of goats escaped the cooking pot

0:03:47 > 0:03:51and ran up to the top of the tower to avoid being eaten.

0:03:51 > 0:03:55So, they've now become the symbol of the city.

0:03:55 > 0:03:58- And, at noon every day... - CLOCK CHIMES THE HOUR

0:03:58 > 0:04:00..a couple of goats appear above this clock.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04A mechanism that was restored in 1913,

0:04:04 > 0:04:05the year of my Bradshaw's guide,

0:04:05 > 0:04:09so it turns out to be not so much a Rathaus as a "goat house".

0:04:32 > 0:04:35I want to find out more about what life was like here

0:04:35 > 0:04:37in the early 20th century,

0:04:37 > 0:04:41so I'm meeting British-born historian Hubert Zawadzki

0:04:41 > 0:04:44at the Prussian Imperial Palace, completed in 1910,

0:04:44 > 0:04:46and referred to in my guidebook as,

0:04:46 > 0:04:50"The Royal Palace, a new Romanesque building."

0:04:50 > 0:04:52Though new in 1913,

0:04:52 > 0:04:55the architectural inspiration is medieval

0:04:55 > 0:04:59and peppered with images from German folklore.

0:04:59 > 0:05:02This isn't a lesson in German architecture, is it?

0:05:02 > 0:05:04This is cultural and political.

0:05:04 > 0:05:09Very much so. A powerful symbol of Prussian-German domination

0:05:09 > 0:05:13in this part of Prussian Poland where there was quite a struggle

0:05:13 > 0:05:16between the Poles and the Germans.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19Poznan was of strategic significance, as well.

0:05:19 > 0:05:23It was important in terms of the eastern approach to Berlin.

0:05:23 > 0:05:26So, it was essential as a defensive position.

0:05:26 > 0:05:29Following the unification of Germany in 1871,

0:05:29 > 0:05:32Prussia's Chancellor Otto von Bismarck

0:05:32 > 0:05:35wanted to ensure the loyalty of its subjects.

0:05:35 > 0:05:39One tool he used was the so-called "Kulturkampf" -

0:05:39 > 0:05:42a campaign to curb the power of the Catholic Church.

0:05:42 > 0:05:46What was the attitude of the German authorities, particularly

0:05:46 > 0:05:50of the very powerful Chancellor, Otto von Bismarck, to the Poles?

0:05:50 > 0:05:52The important thing, from his point of view,

0:05:52 > 0:05:57was to reduce the influence of the Polish nobility, the landed class,

0:05:57 > 0:05:59and the Polish Catholic Church,

0:05:59 > 0:06:03which were seen as the carriers of the Polish national ideal.

0:06:04 > 0:06:06Hand in hand with this struggle

0:06:06 > 0:06:09went a campaign to "Germanise" this part of Poland.

0:06:09 > 0:06:12German replaced Polish as the official language

0:06:12 > 0:06:15of local government and in schools.

0:06:15 > 0:06:20In 1888, a new Kaiser, Wilhelm II, came to the throne.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23Bismarck resigned soon after

0:06:23 > 0:06:26but German repression of Poland continued.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29The Kaiser's balcony!

0:06:29 > 0:06:31Indeed! What a view!

0:06:31 > 0:06:34The building over there was the seat of the Ansiedlungskommission,

0:06:34 > 0:06:37which was to encourage German land-ownership

0:06:37 > 0:06:40in this part of Prussian Poland.

0:06:40 > 0:06:44- Encourage?- Initially, government funds were provided

0:06:44 > 0:06:46for the purchase of Polish landed estates

0:06:46 > 0:06:50which could then be redistributed amongst German settlers.

0:06:51 > 0:06:57Gradually from the mid-1890s, this policy hardens, and by 1908,

0:06:57 > 0:07:00a bill is passed in the Reichstag

0:07:00 > 0:07:05which provides for the compulsory purchase

0:07:05 > 0:07:07of Polish landed estates.

0:07:07 > 0:07:12These policies provoked a strong reaction both at home and abroad,

0:07:12 > 0:07:15but Kaiser Wilhelm was impervious to criticism.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18He visited the palace only twice,

0:07:18 > 0:07:23but for those occasions, he insisted on a throne of suitable grandeur.

0:07:23 > 0:07:25Well, Hubert, is this not the most extraordinary

0:07:25 > 0:07:28- piece of megalomania you have ever seen?- Indeed.

0:07:28 > 0:07:32It reminds you of the glories of the medieval German Empire.

0:07:32 > 0:07:34How successful in the end,

0:07:34 > 0:07:36from the Prussian and German point of view,

0:07:36 > 0:07:38was this repression of the Polish people?

0:07:38 > 0:07:42This repression would have been more successful

0:07:42 > 0:07:44had the German rule continued.

0:07:44 > 0:07:47But, of course, it ended with the First World War.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50- Would you say, in the end, it was counter-productive?- Very much so.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55It strengthens the link between the average Pole

0:07:55 > 0:07:57and the Roman Catholic Church.

0:07:57 > 0:08:01Well, it's quite a thought that within a few years

0:08:01 > 0:08:06of this castle being built, of this throne being created,

0:08:06 > 0:08:08Germany has lost the First World War,

0:08:08 > 0:08:10the Poles become self-governing,

0:08:10 > 0:08:13the Kaiser has escaped into exile.

0:08:13 > 0:08:16- The glories of this world are transitory, aren't they!- Indeed.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25And in 1919, these lands were transferred

0:08:25 > 0:08:28to the newly restored state of Poland

0:08:28 > 0:08:31under the terms of the Treaty of Versailles.

0:08:39 > 0:08:43German architecture and railway lines survive here.

0:08:43 > 0:08:45This is one of the last places where steam engines

0:08:45 > 0:08:48haul regular train services on the main line.

0:08:50 > 0:08:52Howard Jones is so passionate

0:08:52 > 0:08:55about this extraordinary railway heritage

0:08:55 > 0:08:59that 17 years ago, he left behind his life as a travel agent

0:08:59 > 0:09:02in Britain to dedicate himself to its preservation.

0:09:04 > 0:09:07- Hello, Howard! Good to meet you! - Nice to meet you.

0:09:07 > 0:09:09Wonderful great locomotive!

0:09:09 > 0:09:11How is it that so many steam locomotives survived

0:09:11 > 0:09:13through the Communist period?

0:09:13 > 0:09:15Well, Poland had a lot of coal,

0:09:15 > 0:09:17so therefore, it was easier to run on non-electrified lines,

0:09:17 > 0:09:20steam and diesel, which meant importing oil.

0:09:20 > 0:09:24Wolsztyn as a depot, carried on till 1997, being the last working depot,

0:09:24 > 0:09:27and I moved out here to help persuade the authorities

0:09:27 > 0:09:30to keep it running as it's unique in the world

0:09:30 > 0:09:32and it is now, by a long way, unique in the world.

0:09:32 > 0:09:36Howard took over running the line in the 1990s,

0:09:36 > 0:09:41operating ordinary commuter services as well as heritage tours.

0:09:41 > 0:09:44Today, he's invited me to travel on a special train.

0:09:44 > 0:09:46This locomotive is enormous.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49I don't think I've ever been on the footplate of anything

0:09:49 > 0:09:50as big in Britain. Is it Polish or Russian?

0:09:50 > 0:09:53It's a Polish design, built after the war.

0:09:53 > 0:09:54They're more designed for comfort.

0:09:54 > 0:09:58Particularly here, remember, you have temperatures going minus 20,

0:09:58 > 0:10:01minus 25 in the winter, so they're enclosed cabs so they're warmer.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03Thank you very much.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05If you finish oiling up there, we'll be away, I think!

0:10:05 > 0:10:07- OK, then.- Thank you.

0:10:32 > 0:10:35What always amazes me about these locomotives

0:10:35 > 0:10:37is the connection between man and machine.

0:10:40 > 0:10:43Apparently, these two guys have only ever driven

0:10:43 > 0:10:45steam locomotives throughout their careers,

0:10:45 > 0:10:48so you can imagine how they feel every vibration

0:10:48 > 0:10:50in the machine and respond to it.

0:10:54 > 0:11:00I wish I could convey to you the smell! It's really pungent.

0:11:00 > 0:11:02WHISTLE BLOWS

0:11:07 > 0:11:10If you're used to heritage railways in Britain,

0:11:10 > 0:11:13the great surprise is how fast this thing goes.

0:11:13 > 0:11:18But as railway buffs say, the difference between a steam engine on a heritage line

0:11:18 > 0:11:20and a steam engine on a main line

0:11:20 > 0:11:23is the difference between an animal in a zoo

0:11:23 > 0:11:26and an animal wild in Africa.

0:11:26 > 0:11:29And this beast is uncaged!

0:11:31 > 0:11:34I've been invited with hand signals

0:11:34 > 0:11:38to put some coal on the fire.

0:11:38 > 0:11:41I've done a bit of this in England.

0:11:41 > 0:11:43I don't remember it being quite as hot as this.

0:11:46 > 0:11:48There's no sign from the stoker

0:11:48 > 0:11:50that he wants me to stop, so on I go!

0:11:53 > 0:11:56A sign to stop thank God.

0:12:04 > 0:12:06Oh, looks as if I've been sacked!

0:12:16 > 0:12:19Bradshaw's tells me that my next stop

0:12:19 > 0:12:22had four railway stations and was known as Breslau,

0:12:22 > 0:12:27"one of the most important centres of industry and commerce in Germany,

0:12:27 > 0:12:30"with engineering being especially prosperous."

0:12:30 > 0:12:35In fact, it was driven particularly by the manufacture of locomotives,

0:12:35 > 0:12:40part of Germany's early 20th century phenomenal industrial boom.

0:12:40 > 0:12:44My journey is taking me south to a city now known as Wroclaw.

0:13:00 > 0:13:03A new day on my journey through Poland,

0:13:03 > 0:13:05and I'm in another picturesque city

0:13:05 > 0:13:08packed with wonderful Baroque architecture.

0:13:17 > 0:13:20Early 20th century visitor to Wroclaw

0:13:20 > 0:13:23encountered a German industrial powerhouse.

0:13:23 > 0:13:30I see that train manufacturing giant Bombardier continues that tradition.

0:13:30 > 0:13:34Krzysztof Gablanowski, site manager in the transportation division,

0:13:34 > 0:13:35has agreed to show me around.

0:13:38 > 0:13:41A most impressive and enormous factory.

0:13:41 > 0:13:45When did any sort of production begin here?

0:13:45 > 0:13:47What is sure is the year - 1838,

0:13:47 > 0:13:50but we are not sure whether it started with the wheelbarrows

0:13:50 > 0:13:53or with the wagons!

0:13:53 > 0:13:55But we are sure about the year.

0:13:55 > 0:13:57'By 1913, this factory had grown

0:13:57 > 0:14:01'into one of the largest manufacturers of rolling stock

0:14:01 > 0:14:06'in Europe, producing its thousandth locomotive that year.'

0:14:06 > 0:14:09After that, it grow even faster, because in 1920,

0:14:09 > 0:14:13- it was 2,000 locomotives produced. - Heavens.

0:14:13 > 0:14:17- So, the rate of production had become enormous!- Right.

0:14:17 > 0:14:21'Soon after, the factory was also Europe's largest manufacturer

0:14:21 > 0:14:22'of railway carriages.'

0:14:22 > 0:14:24What do you do today?

0:14:24 > 0:14:27We keep continuing over 100 years' tradition.

0:14:27 > 0:14:32So, we produce car bodies for all the types of Bombardier locomotives.

0:14:32 > 0:14:36- Would I see any of your products in Britain?- Yes, indeed.

0:14:36 > 0:14:39We have produced, in the past, a big batch of bogie frames

0:14:39 > 0:14:43for a London Underground project.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46And today, we are producing bogie frames for Manchester trams.

0:14:46 > 0:14:49- Wroclaw to Manchester! - Right.

0:14:49 > 0:14:53'Krzysztof is taking me to see how these chassis frames,

0:14:53 > 0:14:54'known as "bogies", are produced.'

0:14:56 > 0:14:58Here, we can see the welding process.

0:14:58 > 0:15:00By using this kind of jig,

0:15:00 > 0:15:05we ensure the quality and ergonomy of the process as much as we can.

0:15:05 > 0:15:08When do you think that will be running

0:15:08 > 0:15:10on the streets of Manchester?

0:15:10 > 0:15:15In one year from now, there should be some delivered to the city.

0:15:15 > 0:15:18'And for my final stop on the tour, some on-the-job training.'

0:15:29 > 0:15:33I feel like something out of Star Wars!

0:15:34 > 0:15:36WELDING TORCH BUZZES

0:15:42 > 0:15:44'Under heat, the metal pieces melt

0:15:44 > 0:15:48'and fuse together to form a strong, clean joint.'

0:15:50 > 0:15:52That's very beautiful!

0:15:52 > 0:15:53So, how did you hold it?

0:16:01 > 0:16:04Like that? You happy?

0:16:06 > 0:16:08WELDING TORCH BUZZES

0:16:12 > 0:16:15BUZZING AND CRACKLING

0:16:25 > 0:16:27Hmmm.

0:16:27 > 0:16:31- A little bit messy!- Wow!

0:16:31 > 0:16:34'Well, I hope that doesn't end up under a Manchester tram!'

0:16:40 > 0:16:43As I leave this city with its impressive industry,

0:16:43 > 0:16:47whimsical architecture, and quirky protest movement,

0:16:47 > 0:16:49I'm pleased to see that its station

0:16:49 > 0:16:52expresses the city's defiance of convention.

0:16:53 > 0:16:55Wroclaw Station must rank

0:16:55 > 0:16:58as one of the most delightfully over-the-top that I have ever seen.

0:16:58 > 0:17:02There have been lines and platforms here since the 1850s,

0:17:02 > 0:17:05but this extraordinary castellated facade

0:17:05 > 0:17:08was added between 1899 and 1907.

0:17:08 > 0:17:10So, it was new at the time of my Bradshaw's guide

0:17:10 > 0:17:12and fully restored in 2012.

0:17:29 > 0:17:33I'm embarking on the final leg of my journey to the city of Krakow

0:17:33 > 0:17:37which my guidebook tells me was the ancient capital of Poland.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41In doing so, I will be crossing the last of the old imperial

0:17:41 > 0:17:43boundaries into Austria-Hungary.

0:18:02 > 0:18:05Austria and Hungary says Bradshaw's are "independent states

0:18:05 > 0:18:07"ruled by Francis Joseph I,

0:18:07 > 0:18:12Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary. Heir Presumptive,

0:18:12 > 0:18:17"it's Archduke Franz Ferdinand, nephew of the Emperor and King."

0:18:17 > 0:18:19Within a year of my guide book being published,

0:18:19 > 0:18:24he had been assassinated at Sarajevo plunging Europe into war

0:18:24 > 0:18:26and bringing about the dissolution

0:18:26 > 0:18:29of the three empires that occupied Poland.

0:18:47 > 0:18:51My journey takes me 160 miles south east,

0:18:51 > 0:18:53running close to the border with the Czech Republic

0:18:53 > 0:18:55towards my final destination.

0:19:20 > 0:19:24For Krakow, which is the grand finale of my Polish journey,

0:19:24 > 0:19:26Bradshaw's mentions the Grand Hotel!

0:19:44 > 0:19:47I discover that the Polish-born writer Joseph Conrad

0:19:47 > 0:19:49frequented the Grand Hotel.

0:19:49 > 0:19:53At school, I studied his novel about a journey

0:19:53 > 0:19:55into the African interior

0:19:55 > 0:19:59to discover a white man enjoying absolute power

0:19:59 > 0:20:02and seduced into total depravity.

0:20:02 > 0:20:03The Heart Of Darkness

0:20:03 > 0:20:07was then made into a horrifying Hollywood movie

0:20:07 > 0:20:12starring Marlon Brando - the 1979 epic, Apocalypse Now.

0:20:13 > 0:20:17Conrad stayed here just a few weeks before the outbreak of the First World War

0:20:17 > 0:20:23and was determined to show his young family the city he loved so much.

0:20:23 > 0:20:26As the Austro-Hungarian Empire crumbled,

0:20:26 > 0:20:29its grip loosened and this area began to enjoy

0:20:29 > 0:20:31greater political and religious freedom.

0:20:31 > 0:20:35It became known as the cultural capital of Poland.

0:20:36 > 0:20:40I'm heading into the old town to see whether I can find any trace

0:20:40 > 0:20:45of the third empire, which dominated this part of Poland in 1913.

0:20:57 > 0:21:01Once again, the architecture changes markedly.

0:21:01 > 0:21:04Russian and German influences are behind me.

0:21:04 > 0:21:06This is so very Austrian!

0:21:17 > 0:21:20That's particularly evident in this glorious square.

0:21:29 > 0:21:31Four of the cities on this Polish journey

0:21:31 > 0:21:36have been characterised by magnificent public squares.

0:21:36 > 0:21:38Maybe this one in Krakow is the best of all.

0:21:38 > 0:21:42One of the things I love about them is the chaotic juxtaposition

0:21:42 > 0:21:44of different architectural styles.

0:21:44 > 0:21:48The buildings are higgledy-piggledy and yet, somehow, it works.

0:21:48 > 0:21:53And within them, a vast space for people to be boisterous and free.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03In this Austro-Hungarian partition of Poland,

0:22:03 > 0:22:07that sense of freedom extended to the Polish religion, Catholicism.

0:22:10 > 0:22:13Krakow's most famous cleric, the recently sainted

0:22:13 > 0:22:18Karol Jozef Wojtyla, was elected Pope John Paul II in 1978.

0:22:19 > 0:22:23A year later, he visited his native Poland

0:22:23 > 0:22:26still embedded in the Soviet Empire.

0:22:26 > 0:22:28Millions flocked to see him.

0:22:29 > 0:22:33His election as Pope and return to Poland helped to fire up

0:22:33 > 0:22:37the workers' protest movement called Solidarity.

0:22:45 > 0:22:48Apparently, when you're in Krakow you must eat a pretzel.

0:22:48 > 0:22:51Thank you.

0:22:51 > 0:22:53Thank you.

0:22:53 > 0:22:57It seems that they are a left-over from the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

0:22:59 > 0:23:01Personally, I can't stand them.

0:23:01 > 0:23:04But I take my duties as a tourist seriously!

0:23:04 > 0:23:06Hmm.

0:23:09 > 0:23:10At the time of my Bradshaw's,

0:23:10 > 0:23:14Poland was partitioned between three empires.

0:23:14 > 0:23:18Travellers could hardly have guessed that all three would collapse,

0:23:18 > 0:23:23but the empires returned - first Nazi then Soviet.

0:23:24 > 0:23:28I'm off to visit Nowa Huta, a gift to Krakow

0:23:28 > 0:23:32from the grimmest Soviet dictator, Joseph Stalin.

0:23:32 > 0:23:38My guide is Maciek Nyzio, and my ride, a Soviet-era Trabant.

0:23:38 > 0:23:42- Hello, Maciek! How are you? - Good to see you. How are you?

0:23:42 > 0:23:46- I hope your Trabant hasn't broken down!- Everything is fine.

0:23:46 > 0:23:47I was just checking it.

0:23:47 > 0:23:51There's not much to check, because this is the whole engine.

0:23:51 > 0:23:55It's engine more like for a motorbike or a chain saw.

0:23:55 > 0:23:5726 horsepower engine!

0:23:57 > 0:23:59Battery next to fuel tank!

0:23:59 > 0:24:03The car is very elastic, too. Look!

0:24:03 > 0:24:04In case of an accident,

0:24:04 > 0:24:07I hope it will just bounce back from other car.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09- Let's hope so! - Jump in, it's open!

0:24:23 > 0:24:24Made in East Germany,

0:24:24 > 0:24:28the Trabant was the iconic car of the Communist era.

0:24:28 > 0:24:32Painfully backward by comparison with vehicles

0:24:32 > 0:24:33beyond the Iron Curtain.

0:24:33 > 0:24:37I think this car is a good example of what real Communism was.

0:24:37 > 0:24:41It's supposed to be very cheap car for the whole family, easy to get.

0:24:41 > 0:24:45Finally, tiny car was designed and they were extremely expensive!

0:24:45 > 0:24:47Maciek, which part of the city are we in, now?

0:24:47 > 0:24:52We're in the oldest part of Nowa Huta, this perfect Communistic city.

0:24:52 > 0:24:55Nowadays, it's one of the districts of Krakow.

0:24:55 > 0:24:59It was built after Second World War as a separated city.

0:24:59 > 0:25:01A gift from Joseph Stalin.

0:25:06 > 0:25:10Construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949.

0:25:10 > 0:25:14Stalin's aim was to showcase the industrial might of Communism

0:25:14 > 0:25:18and to crush the middle classes by creating a uniform,

0:25:18 > 0:25:22working-class centre, populated by industrial workers.

0:25:22 > 0:25:26It was supposed to be a city to show the power of this new system

0:25:26 > 0:25:29to convince people to this new ideology,

0:25:29 > 0:25:31a symbol of Polish Soviet friendship.

0:25:31 > 0:25:34They wanted to provide as many apartments as possible,

0:25:34 > 0:25:38and to give people jobs, work at the factory.

0:25:38 > 0:25:41That's the main entrance to the factory in front of us.

0:25:41 > 0:25:44- What was it called?- Up until 1990,it was Lenin Steelworks.

0:25:46 > 0:25:48A vast, labyrinthine plant

0:25:48 > 0:25:51with nearly 300km of railway tracks inside it,

0:25:51 > 0:25:55the Lenin Works provided employment for the proletariat.

0:25:55 > 0:25:58But by the 1980s, it had become a hotbed

0:25:58 > 0:26:01of the anti-Soviet Solidarity movement.

0:26:02 > 0:26:04This is Central Square.

0:26:04 > 0:26:07Some time ago, our authorities added a name.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10So, it's the Central Square of Ronald Reagan!

0:26:10 > 0:26:13- Ronald Reagan?- Yes, we like famous actors in Poland.

0:26:13 > 0:26:17Ronald Reagan helped to donate a lot of money

0:26:17 > 0:26:20to our opposition, to Solidarity.

0:26:20 > 0:26:21He was friend of Lech Walesa,

0:26:21 > 0:26:26our first democratically elected president after the war.

0:26:26 > 0:26:28Under the leadership of Lech Walesa,

0:26:28 > 0:26:31the Solidarity movement won the fight

0:26:31 > 0:26:35for the first partially independent elections in 1989.

0:26:35 > 0:26:39Poland became the first country in the Soviet Empire

0:26:39 > 0:26:41to abandon Communism.

0:26:42 > 0:26:44Leaving Ronald Reagan Square behind us,

0:26:44 > 0:26:48Maciek and I are reconvening in a Communist-era bar.

0:26:49 > 0:26:52Welcome to stylish restaurant!

0:26:52 > 0:26:54Mmm, it has quite an old-fashioned feel to it!

0:26:54 > 0:26:58It's one of the few places left in Communistic style here in Nowa Huta.

0:26:58 > 0:26:59GLASSES TINKLE

0:27:00 > 0:27:02I really enjoyed our ride in the Trabant.

0:27:02 > 0:27:05Our ride through recent Polish history!

0:27:05 > 0:27:08- Na zdrowie! To Poland! - To Poland, of course!

0:27:11 > 0:27:14A visitor to Krakow in 1913 might have guessed

0:27:14 > 0:27:18that the Austro-Hungarian Empire was crumbling,

0:27:18 > 0:27:22but not that it would shortly be joined in the dustbin of history

0:27:22 > 0:27:25by the German and Russian Empires, too.

0:27:25 > 0:27:28When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in 1939,

0:27:28 > 0:27:31that was the start of the Second World War,

0:27:31 > 0:27:37and after its end, there followed 45 years of Soviet domination.

0:27:37 > 0:27:43Polish nationalism revived when Karol Jozef Wojtyla became Pope.

0:27:43 > 0:27:45Poland became free in 1989.

0:27:45 > 0:27:47During the course of this journey,

0:27:47 > 0:27:51I've discovered that the Poles have often been oppressed,

0:27:51 > 0:27:54but their spirit is irrepressible.

0:27:58 > 0:28:02'Next time, I find my sea legs off Spain's Atlantic coast.'

0:28:02 > 0:28:05Isn't that a beautiful beast? Isn't that fantastic?

0:28:05 > 0:28:08'Sample a favourite British tipple in Oporto.'

0:28:08 > 0:28:11It's a Martinez 1953, a very rare wine.

0:28:13 > 0:28:14It's glorious!

0:28:14 > 0:28:18'And in Lisbon, investigate an assassination.'

0:28:18 > 0:28:22They're a group of armed Republicans, in five minutes,

0:28:22 > 0:28:25they almost wiped out the entire royal family.

0:28:25 > 0:28:29So, this square was the scene of appalling horror.