0:00:03 > 0:00:07I'm embarking on a new railway adventure
0:00:07 > 0:00:10that will take me across the heart of Europe.
0:00:11 > 0:00:15I'll be using this, my Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide,
0:00:15 > 0:00:20dated 1913, which opened up an exotic world of foreign travel
0:00:20 > 0:00:22for the British tourist.
0:00:22 > 0:00:24It told travellers where to go,
0:00:24 > 0:00:27what to see and how to navigate
0:00:27 > 0:00:30the thousands of miles of tracks to cross the continent.
0:00:32 > 0:00:35Now, a century later, I'm using my copy
0:00:35 > 0:00:39to reveal an era of great optimism and energy,
0:00:39 > 0:00:41but also of high tension.
0:00:42 > 0:00:46I want to rediscover that lost Europe that in 1913
0:00:46 > 0:00:51couldn't have known that its way of life would shortly be swept aside
0:00:51 > 0:00:53by the advent of war.
0:01:09 > 0:01:14This journey takes me to the most eastern reaches of Europe.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16Although one of its youngest nations,
0:01:16 > 0:01:19recognised as a kingdom only in 1881,
0:01:19 > 0:01:22Romania's situation and natural resources
0:01:22 > 0:01:25attracted the attention of the great powers
0:01:25 > 0:01:28in the years before the First World War.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36"Romania is a modern kingdom,
0:01:36 > 0:01:40"formerly a Turkish principality," says my Bradshaw's Guide.
0:01:40 > 0:01:44That kingdom was only about 30 years old.
0:01:44 > 0:01:491913 brought important territorial gains for Romania
0:01:49 > 0:01:53as the old Turkish Ottoman Empire crumbled.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57But Romania was still the slow train of Europe.
0:01:57 > 0:01:59It had a backward agricultural economy
0:01:59 > 0:02:03with some astonishing touches of modernity.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07Today, I feel as though I'm visiting a new country again
0:02:07 > 0:02:11because, less than 30 years ago, the old communist dictator Ceausescu
0:02:11 > 0:02:14was killed, setting Romania free.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17And, like my equivalent traveller of a century ago,
0:02:17 > 0:02:20I'm prepared for some surprises.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34My route will begin in the Transylvanian town of Brasov.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37I take in vampires and castles,
0:02:37 > 0:02:41before visiting a fairy-tale palace in Sinaia.
0:02:41 > 0:02:43I strike oil in Ploiseti
0:02:43 > 0:02:47and uncover a moving story in the capital, Bucharest,
0:02:47 > 0:02:51before ending my trip on the Black Sea in the port of Constanta.
0:02:54 > 0:02:59'Along the way, I experience a rare and beautiful wilderness...'
0:03:00 > 0:03:03Wake up. Did you sleep well?
0:03:03 > 0:03:08I feel really very privileged to see this magnificent animal in the wild.
0:03:08 > 0:03:09Thank you very much.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13'..marvel at some 100-year-old technology...
0:03:13 > 0:03:18That enormous roof just swishes aside. It's wonderful.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24'..and find a kindred spirit in...Dracula!'
0:03:24 > 0:03:27"I found the Count lying on the sofa
0:03:27 > 0:03:30"reading an English Bradshaw's Guide."
0:03:30 > 0:03:32Everybody needed a Bradshaw's Guide,
0:03:32 > 0:03:35even if you were a bloodsucking vampire.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54My first stop will be Brasov.
0:03:54 > 0:03:59Bradshaw's tells me, "It's a finely situated and important commercial town."
0:03:59 > 0:04:01It's in Transylvania
0:04:01 > 0:04:06which, a century ago, was still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
0:04:06 > 0:04:12In the Middle Ages, a bold warrior battled against the Ottoman Turks.
0:04:12 > 0:04:15With a name like Vlad the Impaler,
0:04:15 > 0:04:18he might find a place in any heart.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34Brasov is the gateway to Transylvania.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38It's surrounded by the Carpathian Mountains
0:04:38 > 0:04:42at the meeting point of the three ancient principalities
0:04:42 > 0:04:45of Transylvania, Wallachia and Moldavia.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57Bradshaw's draws my attention to the enormous parish church
0:04:57 > 0:05:00of the 14th to 16th century
0:05:00 > 0:05:05and the town hall with its tower 190ft tall.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09I'm in eastern Europe and it doesn't feel like it.
0:05:09 > 0:05:14The town was colonised by Saxons, so the architecture is Germanic.
0:05:14 > 0:05:18It was protected against the Ottoman Turks by fortifications
0:05:18 > 0:05:22and Transylvania was never Islamic.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26In Christian Church terms, it was Western rather than Orthodox.
0:05:26 > 0:05:29Brasov is a sort of gateway
0:05:29 > 0:05:32between Occidental and Oriental Europe.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44The immaculately well-preserved old town
0:05:44 > 0:05:48has made Brasov one of the most visited places in Romania.
0:05:58 > 0:06:01Here's a tip. Bradshaw's says that "From the mountain,
0:06:01 > 0:06:03"which is now called the Timpa,
0:06:03 > 0:06:07"3,153ft high on the west side of the town,
0:06:07 > 0:06:09"is a very fine view."
0:06:09 > 0:06:11That's where I'm headed.
0:06:14 > 0:06:16I'm following my guidebook up to a point.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21In 1913, reaching the peak would have entailed
0:06:21 > 0:06:23a one-hour hike up the slope,
0:06:23 > 0:06:27but that's because this splendid cable car hadn't yet been built.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55What's so striking from up here is an immense contrast.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59In the old town, the beautiful tawny roofs.
0:06:59 > 0:07:05On the outskirts, the hideous white tower blocks of the communist era.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07It is a tale of two cities.
0:07:16 > 0:07:20I'm leaving Brasov and taking a regional train
0:07:20 > 0:07:22further into the Carpathians.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41HE SPEAKS ROMANIAN
0:07:46 > 0:07:47THEY CONVERSE
0:07:52 > 0:07:55There was a storm overnight and because of that, the mountains today
0:07:55 > 0:07:59are spectacularly clear and they just seem to come out of nowhere.
0:08:22 > 0:08:26Set in a natural amphitheatre on a dramatic hilltop,
0:08:26 > 0:08:29I find the magnificent Bran Castle.
0:08:29 > 0:08:33It was built in the 14th century to defend Transylvania
0:08:33 > 0:08:36from repeated Ottoman invasion.
0:08:36 > 0:08:39By the time of my guidebook, it had become the inspiration
0:08:39 > 0:08:43for one of the most popular of all Gothic novels,
0:08:43 > 0:08:44Bram Stoker's Dracula.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50THUNDERCLAP
0:08:54 > 0:08:57In the shadow of this menacing fortification,
0:08:57 > 0:09:00I'm meeting my guide, Mattei.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04- Hello, Mattei.- Hello, Michael.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07Do you know, all my life I've wanted to see this castle
0:09:07 > 0:09:10and I am not disappointed. It is marvellous.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12Had Bram Stoker ever seen it?
0:09:12 > 0:09:14Well, Bram Stoker, as far as we know,
0:09:14 > 0:09:17he never visited Transylvania or Romania,
0:09:17 > 0:09:21but he had lots of information at the Royal Library in London
0:09:21 > 0:09:23and the British Museum.
0:09:23 > 0:09:26What were Stoker's sources for his book?
0:09:26 > 0:09:27Well, at the very beginning,
0:09:27 > 0:09:30he had an idea to publish a book about a monster.
0:09:30 > 0:09:34He used the name Count Wampyr at the beginning. It was a novel.
0:09:34 > 0:09:36He didn't have the huge success, though.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40Then he realised that the most important ingredient about the monster,
0:09:40 > 0:09:42it's obviously the name.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46And he discovered the legend of Vlad the Impaler,
0:09:46 > 0:09:49better known as Dracula.
0:09:49 > 0:09:52When he found out what Dracula means.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54In Romanian, it's "Dracul", the devil.
0:09:54 > 0:09:56"Dracula", the devil's son.
0:09:56 > 0:09:59With a name like Dracula, you don't have to be a good writer.
0:10:02 > 0:10:07First published in 1897, the book and subsequent films
0:10:07 > 0:10:10became hugely popular throughout the world,
0:10:10 > 0:10:12except in Romania.
0:10:13 > 0:10:16Under communism, the book was banned,
0:10:16 > 0:10:19as was any reference to the supernatural.
0:10:20 > 0:10:24Today, the fictional associations of Bran Castle
0:10:24 > 0:10:27are an important attraction to visitors like me.
0:10:34 > 0:10:39Well, here we are in Count Dracula's library.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43Yes, and I have a copy of Bram Stoker's Dracula
0:10:43 > 0:10:48and there is a line over here that I guess you will be interested in.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52"The lamps were also lit in the study or library
0:10:52 > 0:10:56"and I found the Count lying on the sofa reading,
0:10:56 > 0:10:58"of all things in the world,
0:10:58 > 0:11:00"an English Bradshaw's Guide."
0:11:02 > 0:11:04I knew about this passage,
0:11:04 > 0:11:08but do you know why he was consulting an English Bradshaw's Guide?
0:11:08 > 0:11:15He had a plan to send from Whitby to London King's Cross Station
0:11:15 > 0:11:2050 Transylvanian coffins with Transylvanian earth inside
0:11:20 > 0:11:22for him to be able to survive
0:11:22 > 0:11:26and he's looked inside the English Bradshaw's Guide
0:11:26 > 0:11:29to find a schedule of the trains.
0:11:29 > 0:11:33You see, in the 19th century, everybody needed a Bradshaw's,
0:11:33 > 0:11:36even if you were a bloodsucking vampire.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39Yes, I guess you are right.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46I've escaped unscathed and journey on
0:11:46 > 0:11:49on a form of transport which would have been familiar
0:11:49 > 0:11:51to the 1913 traveller.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53Still a common sight in Transylvania.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18My guidebook says of the Carpathian Mountains,
0:12:18 > 0:12:21"Snow-clad granite peaks,
0:12:21 > 0:12:22"mountain gorges,
0:12:22 > 0:12:24"ranges of forest,
0:12:24 > 0:12:28"delightful valleys with numerous beautiful small lakes
0:12:28 > 0:12:31"combine their charms in this romantic country."
0:12:31 > 0:12:35In all my travels, I never saw a place less changed
0:12:35 > 0:12:37from the Bradshaw description.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41It is so unspoiled and achingly beautiful.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05It's a land defined by tradition and regional customs.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14Shepherds' villages perch on remote slopes.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20I've come to Magura to meet wildlife guide Dan Marin,
0:13:20 > 0:13:23whose family has lived in these mountains for generations.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32These villages in the Carpathian Mountains,
0:13:32 > 0:13:35they seem to be sheltered from the passage of time.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37Yes, they are. They are quite isolated
0:13:37 > 0:13:39and the villagers have been somehow forced
0:13:39 > 0:13:42to stick to a certain way of life.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44And what do they live off here?
0:13:44 > 0:13:47Most of the families in the village own a small number of sheep,
0:13:47 > 0:13:49one or two cows.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53It's a sort of an annual cycle with this way of life.
0:13:53 > 0:13:57There's no artificial fertilisers that people use here.
0:13:57 > 0:13:59No pesticides.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01So it's really good quality.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04So you do have, really, a very natural environment?
0:14:04 > 0:14:08Romania has become one of the cleanest countries in the whole of Europe.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12One of the results of this traditional way of managing the land
0:14:12 > 0:14:17is a huge variety of wild flowers, especially orchids.
0:14:17 > 0:14:21We have 41 different species of orchids
0:14:21 > 0:14:25growing in hundreds or thousands on the meadows around here.
0:14:28 > 0:14:32Many wild flower species long since lost to the rest of Europe
0:14:32 > 0:14:35still flourish here, thanks to small-scale farming.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42Dan is taking me to meet a local shepherd, Ioan.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47At 70 years old, he continues to tend his flock of sheep.
0:14:50 > 0:14:52Ah, that's where he sleeps.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54That is one of the typical shepherds' huts.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57Oh, my goodness. That's tiny.
0:14:57 > 0:14:59Do you fit in there?
0:14:59 > 0:15:02He does fit in there. He does fit in there.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05'In summer, the shepherds wheel these portable huts
0:15:05 > 0:15:09'up to the high pasture and stay in them for up to five months.'
0:15:11 > 0:15:12Wake up! Morning!
0:15:14 > 0:15:16It's morning!
0:15:16 > 0:15:17Hello.
0:15:18 > 0:15:20Did you sleep well?
0:15:27 > 0:15:30The shepherd must stand ready to protect his precious flock
0:15:30 > 0:15:33of 20 sheep from wolves and bears.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45Aaah!
0:15:46 > 0:15:48Beautiful creature.
0:15:48 > 0:15:50And in the summer how high up will you go?
0:15:55 > 0:15:571,300, 1,400 metres.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01Even up to the top, that's about 1,800 metres.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06When Ioan's not up in the high pasture,
0:16:06 > 0:16:09he must maintain his land and, of course,
0:16:09 > 0:16:12it is done in the traditional manner,
0:16:12 > 0:16:13by hand
0:16:13 > 0:16:15with a scythe.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19- No, no, no.- Like that?
0:16:27 > 0:16:29Is that good?
0:16:31 > 0:16:34'I sense that Ioan's not impressed with my technique.'
0:16:36 > 0:16:39Ah, OK. Now, that is effective.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41OK, let me try that method.
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- Try to keep it to the... - To the ground.- ..to the ground.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46Better?
0:16:46 > 0:16:47No?
0:16:48 > 0:16:50He just keeps shaking his head.
0:16:55 > 0:16:57No?
0:17:00 > 0:17:04I'm not sure that I'd last long out here. It's a hard life.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07But the lack of mechanisation
0:17:07 > 0:17:10results in a wonderfully unspoiled environment,
0:17:10 > 0:17:13one of this continent's last wildernesses.
0:17:16 > 0:17:21This, the most extensive tract of unbroken forest in Central Europe,
0:17:21 > 0:17:25is the habitat of one of the world's largest carnivores.
0:17:26 > 0:17:30Dan takes me to a forest hide, where, if I'm lucky,
0:17:30 > 0:17:33I may see a wild brown bear.
0:17:38 > 0:17:41In between the town that we have just left
0:17:41 > 0:17:43and this side of the Fagaras Mountains
0:17:43 > 0:17:45there are no human settlements.
0:17:45 > 0:17:46There is no tourists.
0:17:46 > 0:17:49It's a perfect place for different wild animals,
0:17:49 > 0:17:51especially wolves and bears.
0:17:54 > 0:17:55It's dusk,
0:17:55 > 0:17:59when both wolves and bears approach in search of food.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09Look.
0:18:09 > 0:18:10What luck.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13What a beautiful specimen.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37Romania has the largest number of bears and wolves
0:18:37 > 0:18:38in the whole of Europe.
0:18:38 > 0:18:436,000 bears and about 3,000 wolves
0:18:43 > 0:18:46compared to, for instance, 20 bears in France.
0:18:58 > 0:19:00I feel really very privileged
0:19:00 > 0:19:03because, you know, at one time, Europe was covered in bears
0:19:03 > 0:19:07but now, really, you have to come to somewhere like Romania, that
0:19:07 > 0:19:10has maintained its wilderness,
0:19:10 > 0:19:13to see this magnificent animal in the wild.
0:19:13 > 0:19:14Thank you very much.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45This morning, I'm taking one of Romania's regional trains
0:19:45 > 0:19:47along a well-travelled route.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59My next stop will be Sinaia,
0:19:59 > 0:20:02which the guidebook tells me is "an attractive spot
0:20:02 > 0:20:06"in the Carpathians with villas and hotels
0:20:06 > 0:20:08"where the King has a palace."
0:20:08 > 0:20:11I believe the royal residence is about 3,000ft above sea level,
0:20:11 > 0:20:14so I'm going up in the world.
0:20:35 > 0:20:41Built in 1883, Sinaia Station was on the route of the Orient Express.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44Amongst the distinguished passengers who alighted here
0:20:44 > 0:20:46were guests of Romania's king.
0:20:49 > 0:20:53For it's here that he built a magnificent royal palace,
0:20:53 > 0:20:55Peles Castle.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02I'm meeting Daniela Voitescu, who will be my guide.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12Daniela, it is a fantastic castle.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14Who built it?
0:21:14 > 0:21:20Well, this fairy-tale castle was built by the first Romanian king,
0:21:20 > 0:21:24Carol I, a German one,
0:21:24 > 0:21:28who came to Romania in 1866.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32The Romanian people decided Romania needed a king
0:21:32 > 0:21:35and he was the only one who had accepted it
0:21:35 > 0:21:38and the country became a monarchy.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42Why did he build this fairy-tale castle?
0:21:42 > 0:21:49He has chosen this place because of the view through the mountains.
0:21:49 > 0:21:54The royal family used to live here only in summer time
0:21:54 > 0:21:58and it was built for many guests.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03And almost all the crowned heads from Europe at that time
0:22:03 > 0:22:05have been invited here on holiday.
0:22:13 > 0:22:17King Carol wanted a palace to impress his peers and courtiers.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22The new monarch was keen to show that under his rule,
0:22:22 > 0:22:26newly independent Romania was a powerful, progressive
0:22:26 > 0:22:28and modern kingdom.
0:22:29 > 0:22:34Peles Castle was to be a showcase for the latest technology.
0:22:35 > 0:22:41This castle was one of the first private residences in Europe
0:22:41 > 0:22:43to have central heating.
0:22:43 > 0:22:46This is the original boiler.
0:22:46 > 0:22:50And then the central heating was by means of radiators, was it?
0:22:50 > 0:22:52Yes, which are still working.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55This is extraordinary.
0:22:55 > 0:22:58I mean, clearly King Carol had very advanced ideas.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01He was absolutely at the forefront of modern technology.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03What else did he put into the palace?
0:23:03 > 0:23:06Well, modern bathrooms.
0:23:06 > 0:23:11I mean, running water, hot and cold.
0:23:11 > 0:23:16An electric elevator and a central vacuum cleaner
0:23:16 > 0:23:18which is still working.
0:23:18 > 0:23:19That I have to see!
0:23:23 > 0:23:26With 160 rooms, including 80 bedrooms, to service,
0:23:26 > 0:23:31the housemaids could attach a new-fangled cleaning contraption
0:23:31 > 0:23:33to a central suction system.
0:23:40 > 0:23:45This 100-year-old vacuum cleaner is today used with modern fittings
0:23:45 > 0:23:47and remains surprisingly effective.
0:23:49 > 0:23:51Look at that!
0:23:51 > 0:23:54'But I don't want to get sucked into housework.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57'There's more to explore in this castle of surprises.'
0:24:13 > 0:24:16Daniela, this is really a spectacular room.
0:24:16 > 0:24:17Tell me about this.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21This is the main hall of the castle.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24The skylight was the King's idea,
0:24:24 > 0:24:28which can be opened and it slides electrically.
0:24:28 > 0:24:32And when it was inaugurated more than 100 years ago,
0:24:32 > 0:24:34it was already an electric roof?
0:24:34 > 0:24:40Yes. The castle had electricity since 1884.
0:24:40 > 0:24:44He was very proud to gather with the guests here
0:24:44 > 0:24:47to push the button himself.
0:24:47 > 0:24:49- Does it still work?- Yes.
0:24:51 > 0:24:53HE LAUGHS
0:24:53 > 0:24:54Oh, that's beautiful.
0:24:56 > 0:25:00That enormous roof just swishes aside.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04And allows in the daylight.
0:25:04 > 0:25:05It's wonderful.
0:25:26 > 0:25:30I'm now swapping the unspoilt beauty of the Carpathians
0:25:30 > 0:25:32for a taste of Romanian industry.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42I'm bound for Ploiesti.
0:25:42 > 0:25:45It's one of Romania's most important industrial cities.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48And it doesn't take long to spot why.
0:25:50 > 0:25:51Oil.
0:25:53 > 0:25:55I'm surprised to discover that Romania
0:25:55 > 0:25:58has been refining oil since 1857.
0:26:00 > 0:26:04It was the first country in the world to have its crude oil output
0:26:04 > 0:26:06officially recorded.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10In that year, the world's first oil refinery
0:26:10 > 0:26:14was built at Ploiesti and I'm visiting one of its successors,
0:26:14 > 0:26:18the Vega plant, to meet the project manager.
0:26:20 > 0:26:24So oil production goes back a long way in Romania.
0:26:24 > 0:26:26How long has this refinery been here?
0:26:26 > 0:26:31- This refinery was born in 1905. - That is amazing.
0:26:31 > 0:26:34More than a century ago, and that is older than the guide book I'm using.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37What is the main product from this refinery?
0:26:37 > 0:26:39The main product from our refinery is bitumen.
0:26:41 > 0:26:46Made from petroleum, bitumen is most commonly used for surfacing roads.
0:26:49 > 0:26:51- I spend a lot of my life waiting for a train.- Yeah?
0:26:53 > 0:26:58The raw material arrives by rail from Vega's sister refinery
0:26:58 > 0:27:00and is unloaded here before being processed.
0:27:06 > 0:27:09From here, we unload the raw material, we pump through the tanks.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15- Put this nozzle on?- Yes, yes. Yes, please.- Match these up.
0:27:17 > 0:27:20- And turn?- Yes.
0:27:20 > 0:27:23- You must open the valve. - Open the valve.
0:27:23 > 0:27:25MACHINE STARTS
0:27:30 > 0:27:32OK, done.
0:27:32 > 0:27:36The bitumen enters the plant to begin a process of oxidation,
0:27:36 > 0:27:39which will make it rubbery and more durable.
0:27:40 > 0:27:43The final product is loaded into road tankers.
0:27:45 > 0:27:48- Is the loading arm in position? - 'OK.'
0:27:49 > 0:27:52We're going to start loading, thank you.
0:27:52 > 0:27:54- Right, how do we start?- OK. OK.
0:27:54 > 0:27:57Michael, to push here on the red button
0:27:57 > 0:27:59to start the loading.
0:27:59 > 0:28:05- OK, Michael. You can see also on the truck with that smoke.- A result!
0:28:05 > 0:28:08The result of the loading, yes, exactly.
0:28:11 > 0:28:16So, long before Bram Stoker wrote his medieval vampire yarn,
0:28:16 > 0:28:19this surprisingly modern country had struck oil.
0:28:26 > 0:28:29'Next time, a Romanian hero is brought to life,
0:28:29 > 0:28:31'by a maestro.'
0:28:31 > 0:28:33George Enescu, a Stradivarius,
0:28:33 > 0:28:35it's overwhelming.
0:28:35 > 0:28:38'I meet a defender of the nation's heritage...'
0:28:38 > 0:28:41You are the man who saved this church and so many other buildings.
0:28:41 > 0:28:44'..before testing my head for heights.'
0:28:44 > 0:28:46Whoa, this is scary!
0:28:46 > 0:28:47I've got the shakes.