Rome

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0:00:05 > 0:00:09The British have long been entranced by Italy,

0:00:09 > 0:00:11its beautiful countryside,

0:00:11 > 0:00:15the enduring traditions of art and culture,

0:00:15 > 0:00:21and, of course, its extraordinary gardens.

0:00:26 > 0:00:30I'm taking a journey throughout the whole of Italy,

0:00:30 > 0:00:33visiting beautiful gardens everywhere I go.

0:00:33 > 0:00:36You come and immediately you feel inspired.

0:00:36 > 0:00:41I'll be in Florence, where gardens grew from the Renaissance ideals.

0:00:41 > 0:00:47In every direction, you see balance, order and harmony.

0:00:47 > 0:00:52And Naples, with unexpectedly intimate glimpses behind displays

0:00:52 > 0:00:54of astonishing grandeur.

0:00:54 > 0:00:59This is a peek at her bum, and I like the sense of what the butler saw.

0:00:59 > 0:01:04I'll be looking in on the gardens of the rich and the famous.

0:01:04 > 0:01:06So, what's this one here?

0:01:06 > 0:01:10- Mr Clooney's place.- Yeah, I can see why he might want to live there.

0:01:11 > 0:01:17As well as meeting local Italians growing some of the best food in the world.

0:01:17 > 0:01:19It's very good.

0:01:19 > 0:01:23But my journey begins in Rome, the seat of emperors and popes, to visit

0:01:23 > 0:01:28gardens that are amongst the most flamboyant ever created in history.

0:01:44 > 0:01:48Tourists have been flocking to Rome for hundreds of years,

0:01:48 > 0:01:52to feast on the astonishing architectural richness of its classical past.

0:01:52 > 0:01:56But many also come to see its great gardens,

0:01:56 > 0:02:00most of which originate from a brief but golden age of gardening.

0:02:03 > 0:02:07In a 50-year period from about 1550, there was suddenly an explosion of garden-making -

0:02:07 > 0:02:09extraordinary, magnificent gardens -

0:02:09 > 0:02:13and you have to wonder, why then?

0:02:13 > 0:02:15Why round here, Rome?

0:02:15 > 0:02:18And also, why gardens?

0:02:21 > 0:02:27To find out, I'm going to visit the most spectacular of the gardens from this period, in and around Rome.

0:02:30 > 0:02:33As well as getting to know these iconic gardens, I'll also be exploring the lives

0:02:33 > 0:02:38and the turbulent times of the enormously powerful and wealthy men that made them.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44Now, the greatest wealth and power in 16th-century Italy

0:02:44 > 0:02:48was not in the hands of bankers or kings, but of the church.

0:02:48 > 0:02:52The most powerful group of people in Rome in the 16th century

0:02:52 > 0:02:57were the cardinals, and they all had their eyes fixed on just one seat of power,

0:02:59 > 0:03:01and that was the papacy.

0:03:10 > 0:03:14The Pope was the most influential man in the Christian world.

0:03:14 > 0:03:20Every living soul in 16th-century Europe was either fiercely for or against him.

0:03:20 > 0:03:23He had the greatest art collection in the world,

0:03:23 > 0:03:26the greatest power, and access to vast wealth.

0:03:26 > 0:03:28This intoxicating combination

0:03:28 > 0:03:34was the prize that every aspiring cardinal greedily desired.

0:03:36 > 0:03:40You have to picture Rome round about the middle of the 16th century

0:03:40 > 0:03:44as a place that was asserting itself, and they were saying,

0:03:44 > 0:03:48"We are the powerful people, this is God's city."

0:03:48 > 0:03:53And right here in the Vatican, the single most powerful place on the planet,

0:03:53 > 0:03:55God's representative ruling it,

0:03:55 > 0:04:00and that gave the cardinals and the people working around the Vatican

0:04:00 > 0:04:03an extraordinary sense of power, and brashness and confidence,

0:04:03 > 0:04:09and that's the context in which you have to set these gardens that they were making.

0:04:11 > 0:04:13When a pope died,

0:04:13 > 0:04:18the cardinals elected one of their members to succeed him.

0:04:18 > 0:04:19However, in the 16th century,

0:04:19 > 0:04:23this was less a measure of their spiritual qualities

0:04:23 > 0:04:28and more a result of how influential, rich and cultured they were,

0:04:28 > 0:04:33and one way to demonstrate these attributes was by making an awe-inspiring garden.

0:04:37 > 0:04:41I'm heading off an hour north to Villa Farnese in Caprarola,

0:04:43 > 0:04:46which is a small town in the province of Viterbo, about 40 miles

0:04:46 > 0:04:51from the centre of Rome, to visit one of these great gardens made by a power-hungry cardinal.

0:04:53 > 0:04:57I've come to Villa Farnese mainly because I've always wanted to see it

0:04:57 > 0:05:01but the reason why people have come here in such great numbers

0:05:01 > 0:05:06is because it is generally reckoned to be one of the most perfect examples

0:05:06 > 0:05:08of a surviving Renaissance garden.

0:05:18 > 0:05:24This was the home of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese II, of the distinguished Farnese family.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27His grandfather was Pope Paul III.

0:05:29 > 0:05:31Pope Paul had originally commissioned the building

0:05:31 > 0:05:36as a fortified castle, at a time when Rome was almost constantly at war.

0:05:36 > 0:05:40But by the time the cardinal inherited it, in 1549,

0:05:40 > 0:05:43all that had been built of this fortress

0:05:43 > 0:05:45were the five-sided footings.

0:05:45 > 0:05:50So in 1556, Farnese hired the architect Giacomo Vignola

0:05:50 > 0:05:58to built an enormous palace on these existing foundations and to create the latest fashionable accessory -

0:05:58 > 0:06:02a beautiful Renaissance garden.

0:06:30 > 0:06:38There's no doubt that we have this idea that Italian gardens are all formality, clipped hedges, green -

0:06:38 > 0:06:43at best a very mannered, calm, stately type of garden, but at worst

0:06:43 > 0:06:47rather bleak, even hard and harsh, compared to our love of flowers,

0:06:47 > 0:06:52and I think that's one of the things I want to know, what were they like?

0:06:52 > 0:06:55How have they evolved? And is what we're seeing now

0:06:55 > 0:06:59a true picture of Italian gardens as they've developed through history?

0:07:04 > 0:07:10By the 1560s, when this garden was made, the Renaissance had been in full swing for over 100 years

0:07:10 > 0:07:15and had produced an unprecedented flowering of new ideas in art,

0:07:15 > 0:07:18architecture, literature, science and philosophy,

0:07:18 > 0:07:21with artists such as Raphael,

0:07:21 > 0:07:25Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo.

0:07:25 > 0:07:29But this wasn't just about paintings and sculpture.

0:07:29 > 0:07:34The Renaissance also launched the idea that a garden could be a work of art.

0:07:34 > 0:07:38To find out more about this garden in particular,

0:07:38 > 0:07:42and Renaissance gardens in general, I meet Giorgio Galletti,

0:07:42 > 0:07:47a garden historian who's restored a number of Renaissance gardens

0:07:47 > 0:07:48like Villa Farnese.

0:07:48 > 0:07:52The ideas of order, and symmetry and harmony

0:07:52 > 0:07:55were key parts of Renaissance thought, weren't they?

0:07:55 > 0:08:00Vignola used pure geometry, and also he designed his garden

0:08:00 > 0:08:04on pure geometry according to a square grid.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06Architecture, not only gardens,

0:08:06 > 0:08:10should be based on a pure geometry.

0:08:10 > 0:08:15The idea of, the man should recreate the harmony of the universe,

0:08:15 > 0:08:18and it has to be very simple

0:08:18 > 0:08:22and very feasible to be understood by man.

0:08:22 > 0:08:23Right.

0:08:28 > 0:08:31This grid-like formality might appear constraining

0:08:31 > 0:08:35to modern British gardeners, but it was designed to create order

0:08:35 > 0:08:40out of chaos, placing man in controlled, and controlling,

0:08:40 > 0:08:42harmony with nature.

0:08:46 > 0:08:51As you climb steep steps to the top of the garden,

0:08:51 > 0:08:55you leave the ordered formality behind and enter the bosco,

0:08:55 > 0:08:59which was a wood designed for the cardinal and his guests

0:08:59 > 0:09:03to indulge in his greatest pleasure -

0:09:03 > 0:09:06hunting prey ranging from wild boar to songbirds.

0:09:12 > 0:09:16It's best to think of the garden as a process, or a journey.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20So you've gone from the ordered gardens down by the villa,

0:09:20 > 0:09:25then up through the bosco - this place of excitement, of hunting,

0:09:25 > 0:09:30of wild animals and nature red in tooth and claw, but controlled -

0:09:30 > 0:09:36and then, as you come through the end of the bosco, there's a clearing, and in front of you...

0:09:36 > 0:09:38is this apparition.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42It's a fairy palace, it's an extraordinary, rich creation

0:09:42 > 0:09:45rising up out of the ground,

0:09:45 > 0:09:50and you've reached this state of absolute beauty.

0:10:03 > 0:10:08This is where Alessandro Farnese entertained his fellow cardinals

0:10:08 > 0:10:13and anyone - and in truth, that was everyone - that he wished to impress.

0:10:15 > 0:10:19It is an astonishing ethereal fantasy that is built from stone,

0:10:19 > 0:10:25water, vast riches and an even greater ambition.

0:10:26 > 0:10:29The water features and sculpted cascades pointedly demonstrate

0:10:29 > 0:10:32his culture and sophistication and,

0:10:32 > 0:10:37at every turn, you can see clear symbols celebrating the greatness

0:10:37 > 0:10:39of the Farnese dynasty.

0:10:42 > 0:10:46All this fun and games was really part

0:10:46 > 0:10:48of power play.

0:10:48 > 0:10:53The most important thing that this is saying is, "I am a powerful man".

0:10:53 > 0:10:55Think of this water being channelled down

0:10:55 > 0:10:59in this marvellous staircase of water, made by dolphins.

0:10:59 > 0:11:03Well, any visitor would have known the dolphin was the crest

0:11:03 > 0:11:06of the Farnese family.

0:11:07 > 0:11:10Alessandro's grandfather had been here.

0:11:10 > 0:11:14He'd tasted it, he'd been close to the seat of power,

0:11:14 > 0:11:18so he had about him this sense of right,

0:11:18 > 0:11:20and the garden expresses that.

0:11:20 > 0:11:25The river gods, the water coming from their cornucopias, go into a glass.

0:11:25 > 0:11:26This is the fountain of the glass.

0:11:26 > 0:11:31The idea of taking rivers, drinking them, holding them in your hand -

0:11:31 > 0:11:33this wouldn't have gone unnoticed.

0:11:33 > 0:11:36So the symbolism is almost as important as the aesthetic beauty.

0:11:40 > 0:11:44Despite the jostling for position that went on between cardinals,

0:11:44 > 0:11:47it was a very small world that they moved in,

0:11:47 > 0:11:50and many would dine and hunt together as friends.

0:11:50 > 0:11:56So when Farnese created this garden, fully ten years after the lower gardens were completed,

0:11:56 > 0:11:58he turned to a fellow cardinal,

0:11:58 > 0:12:03who himself had made a great garden nearby, for some advice.

0:12:04 > 0:12:09This palazzina, a rather grand building up here at the top,

0:12:09 > 0:12:13was recommended to Farnese by his neighbour, Cardinal Gambarra,

0:12:13 > 0:12:15at Villa Lante, who fundamentally said,

0:12:15 > 0:12:18"Look, old chap, you've got gout.

0:12:18 > 0:12:22"Like me you find it a bit tricky when you're having your dinners outside on a summer's evening.

0:12:22 > 0:12:25"Build yourself a shed at the end of the garden." So he did.

0:12:25 > 0:12:28Very nice shed it is, too, and it was up here that they would relax.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33The power play would be done and there would be wine and song,

0:12:33 > 0:12:35if not women.

0:12:41 > 0:12:45This garden is formed from an elaborate parterre

0:12:45 > 0:12:48of crisp box hedging, superb sculptures

0:12:48 > 0:12:51and the delightful play of water.

0:12:51 > 0:12:57However, there is a notable absence of flowers of any kind.

0:12:57 > 0:13:00Yet, according to Giorgio Galletti, Renaissance gardens like Farnese

0:13:00 > 0:13:04would originally have been filled with colour.

0:13:04 > 0:13:07There was a kind of symbolic flower garden,

0:13:07 > 0:13:10particularly a lot of lemon pots.

0:13:10 > 0:13:14When there was the fashion of the bulbs, all the cardinals and princes,

0:13:14 > 0:13:18they were in competition to buy the rarest bulb.

0:13:18 > 0:13:22Right. I you talk to most people in England now, they will say,

0:13:22 > 0:13:28"But there are no flowers, it's all just evergreens and shapes and it's very beautiful, but limited".

0:13:28 > 0:13:31So what you're saying is that was never the case?

0:13:31 > 0:13:35Not in the Renaissance. There were jasmines, crocuses, lilies,

0:13:35 > 0:13:39that was very important for the Farnese family,

0:13:39 > 0:13:43because it was in their coat of arms,

0:13:43 > 0:13:47and parts of small topiary in box.

0:13:49 > 0:13:52So what happened to all the flowers?

0:13:52 > 0:13:54Villa Farnese became abandoned and overgrown

0:13:54 > 0:13:58when garden fashions changed and it wasn't restored

0:13:58 > 0:14:00until the 20th century.

0:14:00 > 0:14:02In many gardens like Farnese,

0:14:02 > 0:14:07the only planting to survive was the box hedging, which in fact was often not original,

0:14:07 > 0:14:11so restorers assumed that Renaissance gardens were flowerless.

0:14:13 > 0:14:19It is quite a shock when you realise that the image of the Renaissance garden is actually inaccurate.

0:14:19 > 0:14:21It wasn't like that, and that they wouldn't have used box

0:14:21 > 0:14:25and it wouldn't have been green, and they would have had flowers.

0:14:25 > 0:14:28And when I came to this top section,

0:14:28 > 0:14:31I stood here for a bit thinking, "Well, I don't get it,

0:14:31 > 0:14:36"I just don't feel any response to this rather flat open space and the green grass."

0:14:36 > 0:14:39And it wasn't until I learnt that actually it wasn't like this,

0:14:39 > 0:14:44it was full of flowers, it was like a physic garden with beds, with beautiful specimens

0:14:44 > 0:14:47that they were gathering and were being given as presents.

0:14:47 > 0:14:50When you think about it, why shouldn't Renaissance gardeners

0:14:50 > 0:14:54have enjoyed flowers every bit as much as we do?

0:14:54 > 0:14:57And I need to undo these preconceptions I have

0:14:57 > 0:15:03of Italian gardens as being all about shape and structure and form,

0:15:03 > 0:15:07and start to fill in the gaps with flowers and the pleasure of flowers,

0:15:07 > 0:15:10just like I have in my own garden.

0:15:13 > 0:15:19Alessandro died in 1589, just a few years after the palazzina was completed,

0:15:19 > 0:15:22but his garden remained hugely influential, particularly

0:15:22 > 0:15:27to his fellow cardinals, vying to outdo each other with the magnificence of their gardens.

0:15:31 > 0:15:35The great outpouring of art and culture in the Renaissance,

0:15:35 > 0:15:38with its emphasis on harmony and order,

0:15:38 > 0:15:41was in part a reaction to centuries of chaos.

0:15:41 > 0:15:45Throughout the whole medieval period, Italy was a patchwork of warring states,

0:15:45 > 0:15:49and it had also been particularly devastated by the Black Death,

0:15:49 > 0:15:55wiping out a third of its population, so by the beginning of the 15th century,

0:15:55 > 0:15:58the Renaissance was inspired by looking back to the glories

0:15:58 > 0:16:01of ancient Rome, which until then

0:16:01 > 0:16:04had been almost completely ignored.

0:16:04 > 0:16:09So I am now heading 15 miles east of Rome to an archaeological site

0:16:09 > 0:16:11that had an enormous influence

0:16:11 > 0:16:15on the great 16th-century burst of garden making.

0:16:21 > 0:16:26This is Villa Adriana, which was built almost 2,000 years ago

0:16:26 > 0:16:30by the Western world's most powerful man, the Emperor Hadrian.

0:16:36 > 0:16:39The reason I've come to Hadrian's villa is not so much to admire

0:16:39 > 0:16:43the garden, because that hasn't survived 2,000 years.

0:16:43 > 0:16:47This hasn't been quietly growing for all that period, it's all recreated.

0:16:47 > 0:16:51But there is enough evidence, enough of the layout,

0:16:51 > 0:16:55to provide the spark that lit the fire for Renaissance gardens.

0:16:55 > 0:16:57Although you can go to Renaissance gardens and you'll enjoy it -

0:16:57 > 0:17:00you don't need to know everything about it, it's just lovely -

0:17:00 > 0:17:03if you want to know the story and to understand it,

0:17:03 > 0:17:07you have to pick up the threads, starting here in Hadrian's villa.

0:17:13 > 0:17:17Hadrian built his villa in the early decades of the 2nd century AD,

0:17:17 > 0:17:23at the same time as his famous wall was being built across the border between England and Scotland.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28This was the emperor's palace,

0:17:28 > 0:17:34his court, and the military headquarters for Rome's vast empire.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37Hadrian travelled more widely than any other emperor

0:17:37 > 0:17:40and his gardens were directly inspired

0:17:40 > 0:17:44by ancient Greek and Egyptian architecture and mythology.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51For hundreds and hundreds of years, the ruins just lay there,

0:17:51 > 0:17:54ignored, and people didn't pay them any mind,

0:17:54 > 0:17:57and it wasn't till the beginning of the Renaissance that people began reading the literature

0:17:57 > 0:18:00and looking at the ruins, putting two and two together

0:18:00 > 0:18:02and realising that there was something special here,

0:18:02 > 0:18:07and gradually the columns, and the statues, and the water features

0:18:07 > 0:18:11began to be potential that they could use in their own gardens and their own houses.

0:18:11 > 0:18:15Now, if you think about it, we still take it for granted

0:18:15 > 0:18:19there are columns and statues and temples in grand gardens.

0:18:19 > 0:18:21But none of that existed

0:18:21 > 0:18:25before the Renaissance rediscovered the classical world.

0:18:32 > 0:18:35The part of this enormous, sprawling site

0:18:35 > 0:18:39that most excited Renaissance visitors was the canopus,

0:18:39 > 0:18:44which was a long colonnaded pool with statues all the way around,

0:18:44 > 0:18:49culminating in a large banqueting hall with a great arched and domed opening.

0:18:55 > 0:18:58I've arranged to meet Marina de Franceschini here,

0:18:58 > 0:19:02an archaeologist who's been studying the villa for the last 20 years,

0:19:02 > 0:19:07to find out just why the canopus was so important for Renaissance artists and architects.

0:19:09 > 0:19:15I feel like dwarf, because if I think that here all the greatest architects of all times have come.

0:19:15 > 0:19:19Palladio, Pirro Ligorio, Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raphael

0:19:19 > 0:19:23- and everybody else, so you... - Yeah, yeah.

0:19:23 > 0:19:27But everybody was coming here to take inspiration

0:19:27 > 0:19:30and also because they were looking for measurements.

0:19:30 > 0:19:35They were looking for the magical formula that would give them

0:19:35 > 0:19:37the perfect proportion of buildings

0:19:37 > 0:19:41and also they were trying to understand the secret of building

0:19:41 > 0:19:45a place like this, that is still standing after so many centuries,

0:19:45 > 0:19:48a thousand years of neglect.

0:19:53 > 0:19:54The visiting 16th-century architects

0:19:54 > 0:19:59came here not just to admire the aesthetics of the building,

0:19:59 > 0:20:01but to re-discover practical engineering knowledge

0:20:01 > 0:20:06that had been lost since the fall of the Roman Empire.

0:20:06 > 0:20:10One vital lost skill was how to transport vast quantities of water.

0:20:10 > 0:20:15Hadrian used a ten-mile long aqueduct just to supply

0:20:15 > 0:20:18the villa's countless pools and fountains,

0:20:18 > 0:20:23and the sheer volume of water needed for pools designed to cool

0:20:23 > 0:20:25and reflect light into buildings

0:20:25 > 0:20:30was a clear demonstration of the emperor's knowledge and power.

0:20:30 > 0:20:34- You must imagine the water was flowing down.- Down here?

0:20:34 > 0:20:35- Down there.- Yeah.

0:20:35 > 0:20:42And then was flowing in these channels, and the middle water in this inner channel coming down.

0:20:42 > 0:20:45So water playing, water moving and overflowing and...

0:20:45 > 0:20:49Oh, yeah. Water was a way to show the power of the emperor, because

0:20:49 > 0:20:54we know that there was an aqueduct to bring in water from the Aniene River.

0:20:54 > 0:20:56But the water was part of the garden.

0:20:56 > 0:21:00In a sense, it wasn't a practical purpose, it was for decorating.

0:21:00 > 0:21:04- Yeah.- And where did they eat? How did that happen?

0:21:04 > 0:21:08- So they were lying here...- On here? - On this.- So you lie on top of here?

0:21:08 > 0:21:13Yeah, you must imagine that there were cushions. Pillows. Yeah.

0:21:13 > 0:21:16And then there were the servants

0:21:16 > 0:21:17bringing food, bringing drinks

0:21:17 > 0:21:20and also I believe that over there,

0:21:20 > 0:21:23there was a place for the emperor,

0:21:23 > 0:21:26because that was the best place.

0:21:26 > 0:21:31Imagine Hadrian, what kind of nice garden parties he was having here.

0:21:31 > 0:21:34- Yeah, yeah. - Really something exceptional.

0:21:34 > 0:21:39And the lake and the water itself, would they have had boats or anything like that?

0:21:39 > 0:21:44There were small boats, with people having feasts and orgies,

0:21:44 > 0:21:47but mainly the beauty of the lake

0:21:47 > 0:21:50was the reflection of the landscape.

0:21:50 > 0:21:54You must imagine also a dinner party in the evening with candlelight.

0:21:54 > 0:21:58With just the sound of music, dancers.

0:21:58 > 0:22:03It was really something beautiful to see, and something impressive.

0:22:03 > 0:22:06No, I'm impressed. Definitely.

0:22:15 > 0:22:17Now, round the back of these seating areas is a doorway

0:22:17 > 0:22:20and the public aren't allowed in here, but they've let me in

0:22:20 > 0:22:23because it leads to the emperor's private quarters,

0:22:23 > 0:22:26and presumably there were guards in here.

0:22:30 > 0:22:36Now, this is where Hadrian would have his dinner, so all his guests

0:22:36 > 0:22:39reclining down below, and remember these are just the selected few,

0:22:39 > 0:22:44but he was on his own up here, and there was water and a pool here,

0:22:44 > 0:22:48and in the alcoves you've got gods, you've got statues.

0:22:48 > 0:22:50Now, you have to imagine this lined with marble,

0:22:50 > 0:22:54so light spangling off the walls, white marble,

0:22:54 > 0:22:58and this god-like emperor bathed in a halo of light.

0:22:58 > 0:23:03And it would have been really powerful stuff, so that the garden,

0:23:03 > 0:23:07the emperor, delicious food and song and entertainment and light, water,

0:23:07 > 0:23:12all coming together and you can see, if you take that leap of imagination

0:23:12 > 0:23:14and then apply it to the Renaissance

0:23:14 > 0:23:18and these powerful cardinals, they want some of that magic.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20They want Hadrian's magic, best of all.

0:23:34 > 0:23:361,400 years later,

0:23:36 > 0:23:41one man set out to recapture the emperor's magic with his garden,

0:23:41 > 0:23:44or even to outreach it.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48The setting for this is just a mile up the hill from Hadrian's villa,

0:23:48 > 0:23:50in the small town of Tivoli.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01The garden I'm about to visit

0:24:01 > 0:24:08was made by the most powerful, the most ambitious and the richest of all that pack of powerful cardinals

0:24:08 > 0:24:10that were milling around the papacy

0:24:10 > 0:24:14and he was given the governorship of Tivoli as a reward.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17But it was a double-edged sword, because it kept him out of Rome.

0:24:17 > 0:24:23And he poured his wealth and his ambition and, to some extent his frustration, into his garden.

0:24:25 > 0:24:29This man was Cardinal Ippolito d'Este,

0:24:29 > 0:24:33and his garden harnessed water and made it dance and perform

0:24:33 > 0:24:36like no other before or since.

0:25:01 > 0:25:04I've been to Villa d'Este a few times before.

0:25:04 > 0:25:07You come in from the top but originally, it was designed

0:25:07 > 0:25:13to arrive at the bottom of the garden, and then the visitor would slowly climb up this hill,

0:25:13 > 0:25:16amazed at all the wonders they were seeing and thoroughly puffed

0:25:16 > 0:25:18by the time they reached the top.

0:25:18 > 0:25:22And that's how it was originally designed, so that it would unfold and reveal itself and, by the time

0:25:22 > 0:25:28you reached the top, which is where the cardinal would have been, you were in a state of breathless awe.

0:25:32 > 0:25:34Cardinal d'Este had vast wealth,

0:25:34 > 0:25:37and an overwhelming desire to become pope.

0:25:37 > 0:25:40When he failed in his first attempt in 1549,

0:25:40 > 0:25:45he hired Rome's most distinguished architect, Pirro Ligorio,

0:25:45 > 0:25:50to create the biggest and most ambitious water garden since Hadrian's villa.

0:25:52 > 0:25:57Ligorio demolished whole streets to make room for the garden on the steep hillside,

0:25:57 > 0:26:02and built a sophisticated system to bring water from a nearby aqueduct.

0:26:02 > 0:26:08In today's money, all this would cost a cool £100 million.

0:26:10 > 0:26:14But this wasn't just a matter of d'Este displaying his wealth

0:26:14 > 0:26:16and artistic taste, although it was certainly that.

0:26:16 > 0:26:21He also intended to impress visitors with the depth of his scientific knowledge.

0:26:21 > 0:26:26And these were truly astonishing feats of hydro-engineering.

0:26:39 > 0:26:42The scale of the water is just ridiculous, really.

0:26:42 > 0:26:47Miles over the top, but what d'Este did was re-channel the water supplying the town,

0:26:47 > 0:26:52and took a third of it - a third of the town's water supply -

0:26:52 > 0:26:57to make his garden, so having done that, then he was determined

0:26:57 > 0:27:00to do something big with it,

0:27:00 > 0:27:04so he had an enormous hydro-technical display

0:27:04 > 0:27:07and it still remains the most impressive I've ever seen,

0:27:07 > 0:27:11and it all comes from one source, and there's no pumps at all.

0:27:11 > 0:27:15The whole thing is powered by pressure, so they knew what they were up to.

0:27:28 > 0:27:29By studying Villa Adriana,

0:27:29 > 0:27:32Renaissance architects re-discovered ways of taming water

0:27:32 > 0:27:36that had been lost for a thousand years.

0:27:36 > 0:27:41They found they could control the water's speed and movement using

0:27:41 > 0:27:44different size pipes and spouts and, with this new knowledge,

0:27:44 > 0:27:47the artistic ambition of gardens

0:27:47 > 0:27:51rose to new and astonishing creative heights.

0:27:55 > 0:27:58This is the Terrace of 100 Fountains.

0:27:58 > 0:28:00Took five years to make.

0:28:02 > 0:28:07It uses water that comes from a single source, no pump, all the fountains have the same velocity,

0:28:07 > 0:28:12the same rhythm, the same sound, and it builds up as we walk along.

0:28:12 > 0:28:15It's like a musical instrument.

0:28:29 > 0:28:32Now, poor old Cardinal d'Este, he hardly saw this.

0:28:32 > 0:28:37It took five years at the end of his life and then was completed,

0:28:37 > 0:28:39and behind this beauty is a nagging pain for him,

0:28:39 > 0:28:43because the three layers of water represent rivers leading to Rome,

0:28:43 > 0:28:50and of course, that's where d'Este wasn't, and that's where d'Este most of all wanted to be.

0:28:54 > 0:28:57In the two decades it took to construct his garden,

0:28:57 > 0:29:03Cardinal d'Este made five failed bids for the papal throne.

0:29:03 > 0:29:07At every setback, his garden got grander and grander,

0:29:07 > 0:29:11and the coded messages it sent out became ever more pointed.

0:29:14 > 0:29:15The waters of the 100 Fountains

0:29:15 > 0:29:21flow down here to a garden called Rometta and the story behind it is

0:29:21 > 0:29:25that the Pope forbade Cardinal d'Este to build a palace in Rome,

0:29:25 > 0:29:28because he knew that he would challenge his power,

0:29:28 > 0:29:30so d'Este petulantly said,

0:29:30 > 0:29:34"OK, I can't have my palace in Rome,

0:29:34 > 0:29:37"I'll have Rome in my palace"

0:29:37 > 0:29:39And so he built a model of Rome.

0:29:41 > 0:29:45Rometta was originally more than twice its current size,

0:29:45 > 0:29:48but most of it was demolished in the 19th century.

0:29:48 > 0:29:50However, in the 16th century,

0:29:50 > 0:29:54d'Este's guests would have been able to see an elaborate model

0:29:54 > 0:29:58encompassing the whole of Rome, and thus the power of the papacy

0:29:58 > 0:30:02in his garden, with its own Pantheon and a Coliseum,

0:30:02 > 0:30:06and they certainly would have understood the message intended

0:30:06 > 0:30:10by this statue of Romulus and Remus, the founding fathers of Rome.

0:30:12 > 0:30:15I think what this garden really displays -

0:30:15 > 0:30:20they didn't really go for meditative calm or obvious floral beauty in the way that we do.

0:30:20 > 0:30:23What they wanted were fun and games, they wanted drama,

0:30:23 > 0:30:26and apparently this was d'Este's favourite bit of the garden,

0:30:26 > 0:30:30and he used to put on theatrical performances here and there were all sorts of things going on.

0:30:30 > 0:30:35There were fountains, there was allegory, there are people prancing about dressed up, no doubt.

0:30:35 > 0:30:39The whole thing is busy with drama, and that's the way they liked it.

0:30:42 > 0:30:46The simplicity, symmetry and harmony of early Renaissance gardens

0:30:46 > 0:30:51were being replaced by a new fashion for the dramatic.

0:30:51 > 0:30:56Gardens now engaged and entertained the visitor with spectacular,

0:30:56 > 0:31:01highly theatrical displays, and there was a new spirit of playfulness,

0:31:01 > 0:31:04with a constant intent to surprise and delight,

0:31:04 > 0:31:09typically with water jokes, designed to give you a good soaking when you were least expecting it.

0:31:16 > 0:31:19This fountain, by the way, is meant to surprise you.

0:31:19 > 0:31:22It suddenly springs up and I have actually been here before when

0:31:22 > 0:31:26it became even more playful, so it may happen any minute.

0:31:26 > 0:31:31But the whole point was to have jokes. Gardens were places to delight, and surprise,

0:31:31 > 0:31:35and amaze and entertain you, and if you'd got money,

0:31:35 > 0:31:39then of course that entertainment can get very elaborate indeed,

0:31:39 > 0:31:42and this whole square can fill with water.

0:31:44 > 0:31:48To the modern eye, d'Este's garden seems somewhat kitsch and garish,

0:31:48 > 0:31:53but this was a world where moneyed good taste ran easily

0:31:53 > 0:31:55from Palestrina masses and Michelangelo

0:31:55 > 0:31:58to musical water fountains.

0:32:01 > 0:32:04There's a common perception that Cardinal d'Este built this garden

0:32:04 > 0:32:10out of anger and frustration because he couldn't be pope, but I think, I'm not sure that's right.

0:32:10 > 0:32:15I think that, obviously, he did want to be pope and he was very cross about it,

0:32:15 > 0:32:20but I think the really interesting thing is that he lived in an age

0:32:20 > 0:32:22when very powerful, very rich men

0:32:22 > 0:32:26expressed that power and that creative energy

0:32:26 > 0:32:29by building a garden.

0:32:29 > 0:32:33I mean, just as now an oligarch buy himself a football team

0:32:33 > 0:32:39or a newspaper, it seems to be that it was acceptable to make a garden,

0:32:39 > 0:32:41and that would impress other rich men.

0:32:41 > 0:32:46And so what we have is a flowering, where wealth and power

0:32:46 > 0:32:50expressed itself in gardens, and I can't think of another age when that was true.

0:32:57 > 0:33:01Despite all his wealth and all his power,

0:33:01 > 0:33:05d'Este ran up huge debts creating his garden,

0:33:05 > 0:33:07and he never did become pope.

0:33:13 > 0:33:18Back in the centre of Rome, the Borghese Gardens were originally built for the Borghese family

0:33:18 > 0:33:25in Renaissance times, but are today managed by the state, and are the city's most popular public space.

0:33:35 > 0:33:38There are a few great public gardens in Rome, and my favourite of these,

0:33:38 > 0:33:42the ones at Villa Borghese, come here on a Sunday -

0:33:42 > 0:33:47I'm losing my ice cream - or a Bank Holiday, they're packed,

0:33:47 > 0:33:53mainly with local people using them, playing, enjoying, walking in these exquisite gardens.

0:33:56 > 0:34:00It's just a lovely place to come and relax with the local Romans,

0:34:00 > 0:34:04and it's certainly worlds apart from the Rome of 500 years ago.

0:34:04 > 0:34:10The confidence and even arrogance displayed by the 16th-century cardinals through their gardens

0:34:10 > 0:34:16superficially exudes a sense of invincibility, but in fact, it was a turbulent and uneasy period.

0:34:16 > 0:34:20Just a few years earlier, Rome had endured one of the worst traumas

0:34:20 > 0:34:26of its entire history at the hands of the Holy Roman emperor, the Spanish King Charles V.

0:34:27 > 0:34:32It's all too easy to build up this picture of high Renaissance Rome

0:34:32 > 0:34:36as this glorious place, untroubled, with great and grand men in control,

0:34:36 > 0:34:40but in fact in 1527, there was the Sack of Rome,

0:34:40 > 0:34:46and 30,000 troops of Charles V came in and pillaged and raped

0:34:46 > 0:34:48and destroyed the city.

0:34:48 > 0:34:50Beautiful gardens were lost,

0:34:50 > 0:34:54buildings burnt down and that wasn't just a loss of material,

0:34:54 > 0:34:56it was a crisis of confidence,

0:34:56 > 0:35:01and all these great cardinals and leaders, with their money and their power,

0:35:01 > 0:35:04knew that they could lose the whole thing at a stroke.

0:35:04 > 0:35:08Life was very tenuous,

0:35:08 > 0:35:13and the next garden I'm going to tells that very vividly and graphically,

0:35:13 > 0:35:17all in a relatively small garden, tucked away in woodland.

0:35:23 > 0:35:26The garden I'm about to see is unlike any other.

0:35:29 > 0:35:33And certainly completely different from the other great gardens of the age.

0:35:35 > 0:35:41To get to it, I'm heading back north again, to a small hilltop town not far from Caprarola called Bomarzo.

0:35:46 > 0:35:50The town is dominated by a large palace

0:35:50 > 0:35:54belonging to the noble and ancient Orsini family.

0:35:54 > 0:35:57In 1552, one of the family created

0:35:57 > 0:36:01a Renaissance garden like no other.

0:36:01 > 0:36:03But it's separate from the palace,

0:36:03 > 0:36:06down in the valley below, hidden within a nearby wood.

0:36:13 > 0:36:18This is the Sacro Bosco, or sacred wood, and everything about

0:36:18 > 0:36:24it is completely different from the other great gardens of the period.

0:36:24 > 0:36:28Harmony and symmetry are replaced by twisting pathways.

0:36:29 > 0:36:35It's full of fantasies and visions that loom out of the trees,

0:36:35 > 0:36:38and for an age that believed absolutely in goblins,

0:36:38 > 0:36:44ghosts and woodland sprites, they are spiced with real horror.

0:36:52 > 0:36:55If you think of the more conventional gardens,

0:36:55 > 0:36:58they're laid out, they're imposed on the landscape.

0:36:58 > 0:37:02Streets are moved, areas are flattened, water is brought in

0:37:02 > 0:37:08by aqueducts, an enormous effort to bring mankind to dominate it.

0:37:08 > 0:37:14But you can't help having a feeling here that they walked round, had a look at it, saw the trees,

0:37:14 > 0:37:17saw these enormous lumps of rock and thought, "Oh, we could do something with that"

0:37:17 > 0:37:21and it is extraordinary that these great lumps of stone like this

0:37:21 > 0:37:25were just there, and they hacked into it on the spot.

0:37:34 > 0:37:37The Sacro Bosco was created by Duke Vicino Orsini.

0:37:37 > 0:37:41The Orsini family had included three popes and dozens of cardinals,

0:37:41 > 0:37:46but Vicino Orsini was a man of action - a soldier and a poet,

0:37:46 > 0:37:49as well as being distinctly hard-up.

0:37:49 > 0:37:53He married into the wealthy Farnese family, which did enable him

0:37:53 > 0:37:56to make the garden, but his resources remains limited.

0:37:56 > 0:38:01However, although his garden lacked in elaborate engineering or architecture,

0:38:01 > 0:38:03he loaded it with anarchic riddles

0:38:03 > 0:38:07and visual puns which no-one has ever fully deciphered.

0:38:20 > 0:38:23At the garden's heart is a giant mouth of hell.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26It's a reference to Dante's Inferno,

0:38:26 > 0:38:32but the inscription advises the visitor to abandon all "thought", rather than hope.

0:38:32 > 0:38:36There is this grotesque mouth with nostrils like cannons,

0:38:36 > 0:38:40and it's like a child going, "Grrrr!"

0:38:40 > 0:38:42And then when you go inside,

0:38:43 > 0:38:46it's rather charming. It's like a little picnic house.

0:38:49 > 0:38:54And you can imagine the Duke and his chums coming down here

0:38:54 > 0:38:59and having a bottle of wine and some cheese in this cool,

0:38:59 > 0:39:02rather elegant room.

0:39:02 > 0:39:05There is a building in the garden -

0:39:05 > 0:39:11a solid two-storey house, but it leans drunkenly into the hillside.

0:39:12 > 0:39:14Ooh.

0:39:14 > 0:39:20It has been suggested that it symbolises the collapsing fortunes of the house of Orsini.

0:39:33 > 0:39:37The house has been built at a slope.

0:39:37 > 0:39:39It's leaning.

0:39:39 > 0:39:42It's falling, and certainly the 16th-century visitor

0:39:42 > 0:39:47would've appreciated the pun on house, household, family,

0:39:47 > 0:39:51the name, you know, at a tilt.

0:39:51 > 0:39:57And of course, one of the ironies is that this falling, leaning house

0:39:57 > 0:40:00is still standing strong after 500 years.

0:40:00 > 0:40:04Try and stand up, and I get the wobblies.

0:40:04 > 0:40:07Really, really weird!

0:40:14 > 0:40:18What I absolutely love is the green.

0:40:18 > 0:40:22The way that you go from earth to stone to tree,

0:40:22 > 0:40:27with this one green that goes up through it and then, you know, a sculpture comes along too,

0:40:27 > 0:40:29but wood and natural stone and ground and sculpture

0:40:29 > 0:40:33all become part of the same thing, and that's just lovely.

0:40:33 > 0:40:37Presumably it wasn't like that when it was made, of course.

0:40:37 > 0:40:40Again, it's where time changes the garden for the better.

0:40:44 > 0:40:47It certainly would've originally looked very different,

0:40:47 > 0:40:52because all these beautiful, mossy and weather-worn sculptures

0:40:52 > 0:40:56would originally have been painted in bright, gaudy colours.

0:41:02 > 0:41:05Look how lovely this is. It's a good gardening lesson.

0:41:05 > 0:41:10If you want moss, you've got to have poor drainage, ie stone or bark,

0:41:10 > 0:41:13shade and water and then it'll flourish.

0:41:23 > 0:41:25Orsini was a soldier of fortune.

0:41:25 > 0:41:30A mercenary, fighting for the Pope amongst others,

0:41:30 > 0:41:33so it's no surprise that one of his main themes is the abuse of power.

0:41:33 > 0:41:38Here, the colossal figure of Hercules takes his righteous,

0:41:38 > 0:41:44if deservingly rapacious revenge on Cacus, who has stolen his cattle.

0:41:44 > 0:41:46And one message comes through loud and clear

0:41:46 > 0:41:52in this garden, which is that Orsini is challenging the over-weening confidence and pride

0:41:52 > 0:41:55displayed in the grand gardens of Rome's ruling class.

0:41:57 > 0:42:00I think this garden -

0:42:00 > 0:42:05it's almost a revolt against the attempt to apply order

0:42:05 > 0:42:09that the Renaissance had done to gardens and life in general.

0:42:11 > 0:42:14This idea that if you make everything symmetrical, then somehow life will become controlled.

0:42:14 > 0:42:17And what Orsini's doing here, I think, he's saying,

0:42:17 > 0:42:19"Well, life isn't like that."

0:42:19 > 0:42:22Life is uncontrollable and strange, and there's war and there's violence

0:42:22 > 0:42:27and, you know, you can be married and you love your wife, but you can have lots of lovers, which he did.

0:42:27 > 0:42:33You can lust after other people, you can...be a man of peace and of art,

0:42:33 > 0:42:36but go to war and kill people.

0:42:36 > 0:42:41And it's almost a stab at early psychology,

0:42:41 > 0:42:43and so he's built this place,

0:42:43 > 0:42:47which has some beauty, but then suddenly...

0:42:47 > 0:42:49looming out of the mist is a monster,

0:42:49 > 0:42:53a monster of the imagination, and I suspect that's a bit too

0:42:53 > 0:42:55fanciful, trying to interpret the whole thing in that way,

0:42:55 > 0:42:58but certainly, that element seems to be here.

0:43:01 > 0:43:07In the end, Bomarzo remains an enigma, and rightly so.

0:43:08 > 0:43:13It's a beautiful and disturbing tangle that would be diminished if it were unravelled.

0:43:22 > 0:43:26Bomarzo's eccentricity was a reaction against the pretension and pomp of the cardinals,

0:43:26 > 0:43:30and they were becoming political loose cannons,

0:43:30 > 0:43:33hell-bent on creating increasingly ostentatious gardens.

0:43:39 > 0:43:44I'm now heading 12 miles south of Rome, to the town of Frascati.

0:43:49 > 0:43:53Its cooler climate made it a popular spot for the cardinals to escape Rome's burning heat

0:43:53 > 0:43:57and build their summer villas.

0:43:57 > 0:43:59And this, of course, meant making gardens.

0:44:02 > 0:44:05But there was a major problem -

0:44:05 > 0:44:07insufficient water.

0:44:07 > 0:44:11The fashion for ambitious water features, like those of Villa d'Este,

0:44:11 > 0:44:14were literally running Frascati dry.

0:44:14 > 0:44:18The battle over water rights that followed was highly un-Christian.

0:44:19 > 0:44:23We think of cardinals as being good men,

0:44:23 > 0:44:26holy men, but actually, power corrupted them spectacularly

0:44:26 > 0:44:29throughout this period,

0:44:29 > 0:44:32and some of them were warlords, they were murderers, they were robbers.

0:44:32 > 0:44:36Every venial sin they could commit, they had a go at it.

0:44:36 > 0:44:42And in fact, they used to scupper each other's gardens by destroying the water supply.

0:44:42 > 0:44:45If you couldn't have water, you couldn't have a decent garden.

0:44:49 > 0:44:52In 1598, Pope Clement VIII gave his nephew,

0:44:52 > 0:44:56Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini, this site,

0:44:56 > 0:45:01dominating the town, on which to build himself a villa,

0:45:01 > 0:45:05and critically he also provided the money - 50,000 scudi,

0:45:05 > 0:45:07£5m at today's value,

0:45:07 > 0:45:09to fund a brand new aqueduct

0:45:09 > 0:45:14that gave the town a reliable water supply, but only after the garden

0:45:14 > 0:45:15had taken its fill.

0:45:26 > 0:45:29I arrive on hedge-trimming day.

0:45:29 > 0:45:33The Italians are invariably expert when it comes to pruning trees.

0:45:33 > 0:45:34This 200-yard-long tunnelled avenue,

0:45:34 > 0:45:37whose exterior has been clipped

0:45:37 > 0:45:40to a monstrous hedge,

0:45:40 > 0:45:43is, I think, topiary at its finest.

0:45:43 > 0:45:48From the outside, this looks like a solid block of hedge.

0:45:48 > 0:45:51Now, from the inside, these are great big trees,

0:45:51 > 0:45:56and I'm pretty sure they were planted as a hedge and they've been allowed to grow out massively for,

0:45:56 > 0:45:59I don't know, 100 years or something, I suspect,

0:45:59 > 0:46:02and then have been clipped back, so what you have is a halfway house.

0:46:02 > 0:46:06You've got great oak trees and inside all the bones showing,

0:46:06 > 0:46:09like the inside of a beached whale

0:46:09 > 0:46:14and then on the outside, this box front of foliage...

0:46:15 > 0:46:18..and only time will bring this.

0:46:18 > 0:46:22Only time and neglect can make something as beautiful as this.

0:46:32 > 0:46:37The heavy skies open, and the rain sends me on up to the shelter of the villa.

0:46:37 > 0:46:40This was given to Cardinal Aldobrandini as a reward

0:46:40 > 0:46:43for negotiating a peace treaty with France.

0:46:43 > 0:46:45It was an extremely generous gift,

0:46:45 > 0:46:50and also a canny one because popes aren't allowed to own property.

0:46:50 > 0:46:54So it was a way that Clement was able to keep it in the family.

0:46:54 > 0:46:58The peace treaty gave Rome control of the key town of Ferrara,

0:46:58 > 0:47:02along with a sizeable chunk of the d'Este family fortune.

0:47:02 > 0:47:06These spoils allowed Aldobrandini to create a villa and a garden

0:47:06 > 0:47:10to outshine all those of his Frascati neighbours.

0:47:10 > 0:47:14The villa isn't usually open to the public,

0:47:14 > 0:47:18so it's a rare privilege to be allowed inside.

0:47:18 > 0:47:21Inside the villa is a painting

0:47:21 > 0:47:25of Cardinal Aldobrandini.

0:47:26 > 0:47:30And there he is - a surprisingly young man really.

0:47:30 > 0:47:36Apparently, he was a man of great power and intellect and organisational skills...

0:47:36 > 0:47:40and this was all made for him.

0:47:48 > 0:47:53By the time Cardinal Aldobrandini came to build his villa,

0:47:53 > 0:47:56a new movement had replaced the Renaissance.

0:47:56 > 0:47:58This was the Baroque.

0:48:02 > 0:48:05Baroque was a style of architecture

0:48:05 > 0:48:09and garden design that was dramatic, elaborate, triumphant

0:48:09 > 0:48:14and very confident, and was underpinned by the desire

0:48:14 > 0:48:19to re-assert the supremacy of the Catholic Church over Protestant enemies.

0:48:24 > 0:48:29One of the interesting things when you look at gardens is that you obviously do your homework.

0:48:29 > 0:48:32You see photographs, you look at books...but nothing,

0:48:32 > 0:48:35nothing prepares you for the reality.

0:48:37 > 0:48:41And, of course, the honest response

0:48:41 > 0:48:43is to be flabbergasted.

0:48:43 > 0:48:46Can't really think of anything sensible to say,

0:48:46 > 0:48:49because just the scale of the thing...

0:48:52 > 0:48:55Whilst at first glance, the water theatre might seem to be decorated

0:48:55 > 0:49:00with a series of anonymous mythical characters from classical Rome,

0:49:00 > 0:49:05it is in fact a celebration of papal ,power and the Aldobrandini name...

0:49:05 > 0:49:11with a symbolism all of their contemporaries would have recognised immediately.

0:49:11 > 0:49:15So Atlas bearing the world on his shoulders represents Pope Clement...

0:49:18 > 0:49:21and at his feet, triumphantly rising out of the sea,

0:49:21 > 0:49:24is the heroic head of Hercules,

0:49:24 > 0:49:28symbolising Cardinal Aldobrandini.

0:49:30 > 0:49:35They loved this idea of masque, which was one-off theatre.

0:49:35 > 0:49:41Enormously expensive, put on as a performance to impress those in power. And this is what this is.

0:49:46 > 0:49:50It's gardening as grand display for a select few,

0:49:50 > 0:49:53and it's very symbolic that it's not open to the public.

0:49:53 > 0:49:58It's still just you and I looking at this and a handful of other people, and the performance is for us.

0:50:10 > 0:50:14Above the water theatre, a cascade flows and bounces down steps

0:50:14 > 0:50:16to the balustrade below,

0:50:16 > 0:50:20with a tall pair of columns flanking it.

0:50:29 > 0:50:33It was designed so that it is wider at the top,

0:50:33 > 0:50:37and the foreshortening makes it appear steeper and more dramatic,

0:50:37 > 0:50:39especially when viewed from the villa.

0:50:44 > 0:50:49Pietro Aldobrandini and his guests would look across

0:50:49 > 0:50:52and applaud the water spiralling down the columns into the balustrades

0:50:52 > 0:50:54either side of the cascade,

0:50:54 > 0:50:58and then down into the theatre as a performance and spectacle

0:50:58 > 0:51:02as dramatic and entertaining as any opera.

0:51:06 > 0:51:10The cascade as it stands is impressive.

0:51:10 > 0:51:13A roar of water coming down, but actually it's only half the action,

0:51:13 > 0:51:17because the two columns at the top have got spirals,

0:51:17 > 0:51:22and originally water came out the top, worked its way round,

0:51:22 > 0:51:24came splashing down,

0:51:24 > 0:51:28spilling into the pool below.

0:51:33 > 0:51:35And so you had the central cascade,

0:51:35 > 0:51:39you had the spirals at the top whizzing around like firecrackers

0:51:39 > 0:51:42made out of water, and then the balustrades coming over the edge.

0:51:42 > 0:51:48So the whole thing... was wildly over the top, very kitsch and probably really good fun.

0:51:54 > 0:51:58Huh! Here we go.

0:51:58 > 0:52:03You see the channel...

0:52:03 > 0:52:06that comes round, it's really quite big.

0:52:06 > 0:52:11So quite a lot of water would come down here, picking up speed as it went, throwing light onto the mosaic

0:52:11 > 0:52:14and coming down to go down these balustrades and...

0:52:16 > 0:52:21the important thing is that you have that fantastic aspect of the villa,

0:52:21 > 0:52:25that they have a brilliant view of what's going on, particularly from the top,

0:52:25 > 0:52:29which was the viewing platform for the cardinal and his friends,

0:52:29 > 0:52:34because it wasn't just the theatre down below they wanted to see, but also this.

0:52:35 > 0:52:39Up here on this level is as much again, if not more.

0:52:47 > 0:52:51The top of the garden has been derelict since the Second World War,

0:52:51 > 0:52:56when it was badly damaged by American bombers during the Allied invasion.

0:52:56 > 0:52:58That's enchanting.

0:53:02 > 0:53:06This is the only grand papal garden not owned by the state.

0:53:06 > 0:53:08It remains in private hands,

0:53:10 > 0:53:15still owned and still lived in by the Aldobrandini family.

0:53:15 > 0:53:19Looking after a garden and villa like this is a mammoth undertaking,

0:53:19 > 0:53:23however, the current owner Prince Camillo Aldobrandini

0:53:23 > 0:53:27is embarking on the formidable job of restoration.

0:53:27 > 0:53:29Well, you see, there is some scaffolding

0:53:31 > 0:53:38and we are hoping to make a quite important work of restoration, especially for the fountains,

0:53:38 > 0:53:41which are in a very bad state.

0:53:41 > 0:53:46- It was bombed during the war.- Yeah.

0:53:46 > 0:53:50My father restored it, but having new cement, it's now in a very bad state.

0:53:52 > 0:53:55Everything has to be repaired again.

0:53:55 > 0:53:57- And of course, the water...- Yes.

0:53:57 > 0:54:00..is a huge issue because it's still quite a big thing

0:54:00 > 0:54:04- to have that water running, isn't it?- Yes. We have an aqueduct,

0:54:04 > 0:54:07actually, and the water then was used for this villa,

0:54:07 > 0:54:11and we sell the water to the villages around here.

0:54:13 > 0:54:16Right. So does the garden always have a good supply of water?

0:54:16 > 0:54:20No. There are some moments in autumn when there is no water in the fountains.

0:54:20 > 0:54:24- Right.- We're now starting to put a recycling outfit,

0:54:24 > 0:54:28so that the same water can be used over and over again.

0:54:28 > 0:54:32And to what extent would you ever consider restoration

0:54:32 > 0:54:34to a particular date?

0:54:34 > 0:54:38Are you putting the garden back to the 16th century, or...?

0:54:38 > 0:54:41I wouldn't. It would be a pity to cut down trees.

0:54:41 > 0:54:45In the Italian mentality, countryside villas

0:54:45 > 0:54:49were usually a repetition of urban houses,

0:54:49 > 0:54:51and so they didn't want to have too many trees,

0:54:51 > 0:54:54just wanted to have a house,

0:54:54 > 0:54:57and very low gardens and statues.

0:54:57 > 0:55:02And presumably, some things have been lost from this?

0:55:02 > 0:55:07Yeah. There were statues all over this balustrade, and they were taken by Napoleon.

0:55:07 > 0:55:12Napoleon took all the statues and belongings of his brother-in-law,

0:55:12 > 0:55:14and his brother-in-law's brother,

0:55:14 > 0:55:18which was my great-grandfather, and he said he would pay them

0:55:18 > 0:55:20after he would come back from Russia.

0:55:20 > 0:55:25Unfortunately, things didn't turn out...as planned.

0:55:25 > 0:55:29Not quite. It's a very good story.

0:55:33 > 0:55:38At the garden's highest point is the main water supply, still flowing

0:55:38 > 0:55:43from the same aqueduct Cardinal Aldobrandini built 400 years ago.

0:55:46 > 0:55:51The last cascade is the most natural and, I think, the most charming, too.

0:55:51 > 0:55:54It's got real elegance, and of course, that was the idea -

0:55:54 > 0:55:56that as you got away from the palace,

0:55:56 > 0:56:02everything became more natural and blended into the wild, but very, very controlled.

0:56:02 > 0:56:05This was wilderness absolutely under the thumb of man.

0:56:05 > 0:56:10In the 21st century, nature's taken over, places have been cleared,

0:56:10 > 0:56:17trees have grown, they've decayed, and because it's a private garden, it feels intimate.

0:56:17 > 0:56:21It feels that you're seeing something very personal,

0:56:21 > 0:56:24and I'm not sure I'd like this to be fully restored and made public

0:56:24 > 0:56:27and gleaming, and a historical document.

0:56:27 > 0:56:31I think part of the magic is that it almost feels

0:56:31 > 0:56:34like it could disappear at any time.

0:56:34 > 0:56:37So it's more precious.

0:56:46 > 0:56:50Villa Aldobrandini is still astonishingly grand,

0:56:50 > 0:56:53but age has given it an air of engaging scruffiness

0:56:53 > 0:56:56that I think makes it all the more charming.

0:57:05 > 0:57:09On my tour around these great gardens of Rome,

0:57:09 > 0:57:12I've seen gardens designed to entertain and to shock,

0:57:12 > 0:57:14but above all, to impress.

0:57:16 > 0:57:19And how they succeeded,

0:57:19 > 0:57:22although not perhaps as they intended,

0:57:22 > 0:57:27as they continue to impress and influence gardeners and tourists for the next 400 years.

0:57:27 > 0:57:30And it remains an astonishing thought

0:57:30 > 0:57:34that they were all made within such a brief period of time.

0:57:36 > 0:57:40During this 50-year period at the end of the 16th century,

0:57:40 > 0:57:44the cardinals vied with each other for the papacy like dogs in a pack,

0:57:44 > 0:57:50and the gardens that they were making were not for a love of plants or horticulture, as such.

0:57:50 > 0:57:53They were primarily to impress each other, to show their power

0:57:53 > 0:57:57in order that they could become the Pope themselves, and the irony is,

0:57:57 > 0:58:01of course, that none of them, none of these great garden makers

0:58:01 > 0:58:03ever made it to the top table.

0:58:03 > 0:58:07But what they left behind were not so much a piece of history

0:58:07 > 0:58:09showing how powerful they were,

0:58:09 > 0:58:12but a set of some of the most beautiful gardens

0:58:12 > 0:58:15the world has ever seen.

0:58:17 > 0:58:19Next time, I'll be in Florence,

0:58:19 > 0:58:24where the creative revolution of the Renaissance not only changed art

0:58:24 > 0:58:29and architecture, but also transformed gardens of every kind.

0:58:38 > 0:58:42Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:42 > 0:58:47E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk