Stags by the Sea

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04I'm Timothy Spall, and this is my wife, Shane.

0:00:04 > 0:00:07Ready? Right, hold on, let's get her started.

0:00:07 > 0:00:08OK, well, it's wedged.

0:00:08 > 0:00:12Six years ago we left London to go clockwise around Britain.

0:00:12 > 0:00:16Just kick her out, just kick her out.

0:00:16 > 0:00:19So far, we've travelled 1,700 miles.

0:00:19 > 0:00:21That's just over a mile a day.

0:00:23 > 0:00:26Right, just let go of it. Hold that rope.

0:00:26 > 0:00:29We're trying to get out of here, not go back in.

0:00:29 > 0:00:32I know, well, I'm going to be garrotted.

0:00:32 > 0:00:35Somehow, we've made it all the way back to England

0:00:35 > 0:00:38and the Northumberland port of Amble.

0:00:40 > 0:00:42Right, let's go, then.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44- Let's go then?- Let's go.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52When we set off on this maritime adventure,

0:00:52 > 0:00:55we didn't know what we'd find.

0:00:57 > 0:01:00We discovered a hidden Welsh village...

0:01:01 > 0:01:03..an English island with its own king.

0:01:03 > 0:01:06No, it does rather become you, actually.

0:01:06 > 0:01:08Fetching, isn't it?

0:01:08 > 0:01:12And the tip of Scotland, a biblical storm.

0:01:12 > 0:01:14My God.

0:01:16 > 0:01:19With 500 miles of the English east coast to navigate,

0:01:19 > 0:01:23we're on the home straight.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26There are still some big challenges ahead.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29But by the end of this summer, will be back in London.

0:01:29 > 0:01:30With a bit of luck.

0:01:40 > 0:01:43Look at it, beautiful. Come on, tell me the history, then.

0:01:43 > 0:01:47We're now in the Northumberland village of Warkworth.

0:01:47 > 0:01:51It's about a mile up river from when Matilda is moored in Amble

0:01:51 > 0:01:54and 40 miles from the Scottish border.

0:01:54 > 0:01:58The church spire has a spiral staircase

0:01:58 > 0:02:00with 33 steps to the clock room.

0:02:00 > 0:02:02Well, give us a shout when you're at the top.

0:02:02 > 0:02:04And tell me what they're like.

0:02:04 > 0:02:07And its clock is wound by hand each week.

0:02:08 > 0:02:10Wound by hand?

0:02:10 > 0:02:11Yeah.

0:02:11 > 0:02:14This is St Lawrence Church.

0:02:14 > 0:02:19It was built by the Normans at the beginning of the 12th century.

0:02:19 > 0:02:21St Lawrence was a martyr

0:02:21 > 0:02:25and he was put on to a grid iron and roasted alive.

0:02:25 > 0:02:27Apparently.

0:02:27 > 0:02:30The good old days(!)

0:02:30 > 0:02:33This is not the first church on this site.

0:02:33 > 0:02:39The original dates back more than 1,200 years to 737 AD.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44There's something going on here, look.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49Bloody hell. Oh, God.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51Ancient tombs.

0:02:51 > 0:02:53God, I mean, they are literally...

0:02:53 > 0:02:56They were literally just placed in there, like.

0:02:56 > 0:02:58Sarcophaguses.

0:02:58 > 0:03:00And you see the hole there?

0:03:00 > 0:03:02- That was just a drain out the body fluids.- Yeah, I know.

0:03:02 > 0:03:08- I think these are called sarcophaguses, aren't they?- I don't know what they're called.

0:03:08 > 0:03:11The stone coffins, I think they're called sarcophagus.

0:03:11 > 0:03:14This one was thin. I mean, thin legs.

0:03:14 > 0:03:17I think they're definitely called sarcophaguses.

0:03:17 > 0:03:21Let's go and have a look round, I want to see the buttresses.

0:03:21 > 0:03:24- The buttresses?- Yeah.

0:03:24 > 0:03:25Excuse me.

0:03:25 > 0:03:28You're walking on people's graves here, it's not right.

0:03:28 > 0:03:31I'm saying, "excuse me". They don't mind.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34Sorry, sorry, excuse me.

0:03:34 > 0:03:38So this was the old front door, then.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40Yeah, listen to the wind in the trees.

0:03:43 > 0:03:44That's the...

0:03:45 > 0:03:48- It's right on the river, there. - No, I know.

0:03:48 > 0:03:49Come and stand here.

0:03:59 > 0:04:02It's the Spalls.

0:04:06 > 0:04:09Warkworth also has a medieval castle.

0:04:09 > 0:04:13It's considered a Northumberland jewel in the crown.

0:04:17 > 0:04:21That's nice, look. That broken bit there.

0:04:21 > 0:04:23Oh, quite like it now I'm here.

0:04:23 > 0:04:26I'm going to go sit on the bench.

0:04:26 > 0:04:29I can't be bothered to go there, can you?

0:04:29 > 0:04:31At this point of the journey

0:04:31 > 0:04:36it means a lot to be back in England, home is not far now.

0:04:36 > 0:04:40We're like two thirds of the way round, I think this could,

0:04:40 > 0:04:44this, as we crossed the border, Berwick-upon-Tweed,

0:04:44 > 0:04:48it felt like we were two thirds of the way round.

0:04:48 > 0:04:53Given the fact that the west of Britain is jagged and in and out,

0:04:53 > 0:05:00the east of Britain is far more of a straight line.

0:05:00 > 0:05:03Pretty much going southeast, south southeast all the way.

0:05:03 > 0:05:08Anyway, come on, let's go back to the boat.

0:05:08 > 0:05:09Lovely place.

0:05:09 > 0:05:10Yes, it's nice.

0:05:12 > 0:05:16Our next destination is Newcastle upon Tyne.

0:05:16 > 0:05:20But before we set off, I need to fix the dinghy...

0:05:21 > 0:05:24I've ascertained a perforation.

0:05:25 > 0:05:28Now we've ascertained a perforation,

0:05:28 > 0:05:34you possibly can proceed with a medical procedure.

0:05:34 > 0:05:38..which I somehow managed to melt on our boat's central heating outlet.

0:05:44 > 0:05:49I haven't mended a puncture in 20 years.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54I'm useless at anything like this.

0:05:54 > 0:06:00Any repairs, save a fiver, cause five grand's worth of damage.

0:06:02 > 0:06:07Well, it's just a matter of playing the waiting game now.

0:06:11 > 0:06:13Shane has heard about a small boat

0:06:13 > 0:06:16that's due to arrive in Amble at any moment.

0:06:16 > 0:06:19The skipper, Oliver Rofix is circumnavigating the British Isles

0:06:19 > 0:06:23in the opposite direction to us, anticlockwise.

0:06:23 > 0:06:27Hi, there. At last!

0:06:27 > 0:06:31Oliver was inspired to take to the sea, like me...

0:06:31 > 0:06:33Tiny boat, isn't it?

0:06:33 > 0:06:35..after surviving leukaemia.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40So, I believe we're fellow survivors?

0:06:40 > 0:06:44Yes, 15 years, is it for you?

0:06:44 > 0:06:47- 15 years, yes, just on the eighth. - Last Sunday.

0:06:47 > 0:06:48Two days ago, yeah.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50May the eighth.

0:06:50 > 0:06:54I left on the 28th, which is the day after my five-year all clear.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56- Oh, was it? - On 28th March.

0:06:56 > 0:06:58Brilliant, brilliant.

0:06:58 > 0:07:01Where did you, where were you treated?

0:07:01 > 0:07:02I started in Ipswich...

0:07:02 > 0:07:07Ollie's mission is to recruit 40 potentially life-saving donors.

0:07:09 > 0:07:12He was given a bone marrow transplant from a donor,

0:07:12 > 0:07:15which is the reason he's here with us today.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18And then they decided I was this special job,

0:07:18 > 0:07:22and they said is there any chance of a transplant?

0:07:22 > 0:07:23Right.

0:07:23 > 0:07:26We went for it, and there was two donors in the world,

0:07:26 > 0:07:28one in America and one in the UK.

0:07:28 > 0:07:29And it just worked.

0:07:29 > 0:07:31Which one did you take?

0:07:31 > 0:07:32The UK one.

0:07:34 > 0:07:37I don't want to do it again, that's for sure.

0:07:37 > 0:07:38So you went through hell, did you?

0:07:38 > 0:07:42Sort of, yes. The transplant wasn't...

0:07:42 > 0:07:45It was the treatment that messed me about.

0:07:45 > 0:07:50Oliver's adventure is in a boat that's less than a sixth the size of Matilda.

0:07:50 > 0:07:54Flipping hell, that's really tiny, isn't it?

0:07:54 > 0:07:57Tell you what, mate, what a beautiful refit.

0:07:57 > 0:07:58Jump on.

0:07:58 > 0:08:02- Well, we can't all get on, can we? - Yeah, we can, darling, get on.

0:08:06 > 0:08:08Very bijou.

0:08:08 > 0:08:09You can go down.

0:08:10 > 0:08:12Will I be able to get out?

0:08:13 > 0:08:15Do you know what, you got my admiration,

0:08:15 > 0:08:18you've got my complete and utter admiration.

0:08:18 > 0:08:20I don't say that to many people.

0:08:20 > 0:08:22It's good fun, it is good fun.

0:08:22 > 0:08:26Oh, don't grab the...

0:08:26 > 0:08:30Ollie, I want you to give that back to us when you get back to London.

0:08:30 > 0:08:32OK.

0:08:32 > 0:08:35- I'll try not to break it. - Well, if you do, never mind.

0:08:35 > 0:08:38You can give it back to us in pieces, just give us the handle back.

0:08:38 > 0:08:42Oh, thanks for that, that's kind of you.

0:08:52 > 0:08:55Northumberland has been delightful.

0:08:55 > 0:08:57But it's time to move on.

0:08:57 > 0:09:01We bid farewell to Ollie, as he heads north to Scotland,

0:09:01 > 0:09:06and we had 40 nautical miles south, to Newcastle.

0:09:06 > 0:09:11After the huge success of Auf Wiedersehen, Pet in the '80s,

0:09:11 > 0:09:14I became an adopted son of Newcastle

0:09:14 > 0:09:17even though I played a Brummie.

0:09:17 > 0:09:19On our way up the River Tyne,

0:09:19 > 0:09:25we pick up fellow Auf Wierdersehen, Pet actress Melanie Hill.

0:09:25 > 0:09:28She played Barry's first wife, the lovely Hazel.

0:09:28 > 0:09:31Although, unfortunately, she did leave him for a woman.

0:09:31 > 0:09:35Well, it's quite choppy for the river.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37Raining and all.

0:09:37 > 0:09:40What's the worst you've been in?

0:09:40 > 0:09:43Yeah, that was when the coming around Rattray Head.

0:09:43 > 0:09:47We were coming along like this, we turned the corner of Scotland,

0:09:47 > 0:09:50sky went black,

0:09:50 > 0:09:57it started to hail like someone firing frozen peas at us out of a bazooka.

0:09:57 > 0:10:01The sea went from like this to about 10 foot waves, honestly,

0:10:01 > 0:10:04I've never been more scared.

0:10:04 > 0:10:08You know all those bridges, you know in Newcastle there's like six bridges.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12- Yeah, they're right up there. - Do we go under them?- No, they're...

0:10:12 > 0:10:14We'll go in the dinghy under them.

0:10:14 > 0:10:18They'll go, you might be to see them,

0:10:18 > 0:10:21but it's about a mile down river.

0:10:23 > 0:10:26Now, we think our barge is big, look at the size of that.

0:10:29 > 0:10:32Newcastle is situated eight miles inland

0:10:32 > 0:10:35on the north bank of the River Tyne.

0:10:35 > 0:10:38It was originally a Roman settlement called Pons Aelius.

0:10:38 > 0:10:44When the Anglo-Saxons took over they called it Monkchester.

0:10:44 > 0:10:46And eventually, in 1080,

0:10:46 > 0:10:51after a new castle was built, it became Newcastle upon Tyne.

0:10:51 > 0:10:55Across the river, the town of Gateshead has also changed

0:10:55 > 0:10:57but more recently.

0:10:57 > 0:10:59There's the Baltic.

0:10:59 > 0:11:04I remember about eight years ago, maybe ten,

0:11:07 > 0:11:09I don't know what I was doing up here,

0:11:09 > 0:11:12none of that was here, none of that,

0:11:12 > 0:11:14none of that was there at all.

0:11:14 > 0:11:16That church was, obviously.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19I remember a bloke saying to me, he was in the council,

0:11:19 > 0:11:25or the, uh...development society,

0:11:25 > 0:11:29he said... The Baltic was just an empty old warehouse,

0:11:29 > 0:11:33and he said, "Oh, we've got great plans to turn that into an arts centre,

0:11:33 > 0:11:36"and it's good to be a great big deal, and it's all going to..."

0:11:36 > 0:11:40And I thought, oh, good luck, mate. And now look at it!

0:11:40 > 0:11:42The Baltic was a flour mill.

0:11:42 > 0:11:47And now was one of Britain's leading visual arts centres.

0:11:47 > 0:11:48Why do people look at you and laugh?

0:11:48 > 0:11:52Because they find me amusing, like.

0:11:52 > 0:11:56This transformation dates back to the new millennium.

0:11:56 > 0:12:01But Newcastle has always been a stage for the performing arts.

0:12:03 > 0:12:08Yeah, look, they're doing it up, brand spanking old.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12Shane, this is where... The first time ever came to Newcastle.

0:12:12 > 0:12:131980?

0:12:13 > 0:12:19Uh, 1980, before I met you, before I met the future Mrs Spall,

0:12:19 > 0:12:22I was in the Royal Shakespeare Company,

0:12:22 > 0:12:24I was just 22 years old,

0:12:24 > 0:12:32and we'd been at Stratford doing Shakespeare and Chekhov, Brecht,

0:12:32 > 0:12:38to, ostensibly, an audience of 40 percent Japanese schoolboys

0:12:38 > 0:12:40in Stratford-upon-Avon.

0:12:40 > 0:12:42So can we brought a show here,

0:12:42 > 0:12:45we brought all the big shows here, Shakespeare shows here,

0:12:45 > 0:12:47to the Theatre Royal.

0:12:48 > 0:12:51Then I've been back and forth quite a lot.

0:12:51 > 0:12:55But the second time, I came up here to do a training film,

0:12:55 > 0:12:59with a lovely actress called Jan Francis, I think it was my 30...

0:13:00 > 0:13:01..35th birthday, was it? 36th?

0:13:01 > 0:13:0335.

0:13:03 > 0:13:08And we were outside the... We were outside the Theatre Royal,

0:13:08 > 0:13:12I was standing there talking about the fact that I'd been here,

0:13:12 > 0:13:17and these two old women came up and one of them grabbed me.

0:13:17 > 0:13:22"Eeeh, look, look, Rita, it's um...

0:13:22 > 0:13:24"oh, it's, uh...

0:13:24 > 0:13:29"Oh, it's Jeremy Biggins!"

0:13:29 > 0:13:32And I thought, "What a birthday present!"

0:13:32 > 0:13:35This old woman thinks, somehow she's morphed me

0:13:35 > 0:13:40into half Christopher Biggins, half Jeremy Beadle.

0:13:40 > 0:13:41Happy birthday.

0:13:41 > 0:13:43"Happy birthday, lamb."

0:13:46 > 0:13:48That's nice.

0:13:48 > 0:13:49Yeah, if you're 24.

0:13:50 > 0:13:53- Look that.- I'm looking at the menu.

0:13:53 > 0:13:56- Yeah, but look at that. Wonderful.- Yeah.

0:13:58 > 0:14:00Where do you want to go now, then?

0:14:00 > 0:14:03I think we want to hide because I just saw,

0:14:03 > 0:14:07I just saw a 50-year-old man in a pink romper suit,

0:14:07 > 0:14:10and 17 women in pink Stetsons.

0:14:10 > 0:14:14So, I think we might want to find a quiet corner somewhere.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16It's only half past four.

0:14:18 > 0:14:22Our next destination is Hartlepool.

0:14:22 > 0:14:28But I can't leave Newcastle without taking a little detour.

0:14:28 > 0:14:34I mean, we have to do it, just simply because we've got go under the Tyne Bridge, haven't we?

0:14:34 > 0:14:37You know, being to a certain degree,

0:14:37 > 0:14:41an adopted son of Newcastle by association with

0:14:41 > 0:14:45Auf Wiedersehen, Pet, which was a massive, massive hit here.

0:14:46 > 0:14:48Funnily enough, Barry,

0:14:48 > 0:14:53in a lot of places was conceived as a bit of a prannet,

0:14:53 > 0:14:54a bit of a radish.

0:14:54 > 0:14:57But the Geordies really liked him.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00They thought he... They didn't call me a wally up here,

0:15:00 > 0:15:03I don't know, they thought I was a sensitive character.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06I suppose, they've got a peculiar accent themselves,

0:15:06 > 0:15:11a Brummie accent doesn't sound that weird to them.

0:15:11 > 0:15:13Or Black Country, should I say?

0:15:17 > 0:15:22The Tyne Bridge was opened on the 10th of October, 1928,

0:15:22 > 0:15:28and the first two people to drive over it were King George V and Queen Mary.

0:15:30 > 0:15:34And today, there's a princess passing underneath.

0:15:40 > 0:15:43I think I might turn here.

0:15:43 > 0:15:47Now we've done our detour, it's eight miles up the Tyne,

0:15:47 > 0:15:49back to the North Sea.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58The Tyne was once one of the world's largest shipbuilding

0:15:58 > 0:16:01and ship repairing centres.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03But a lot of the industry has gone.

0:16:03 > 0:16:07Some of it is actually going right in front of us.

0:16:07 > 0:16:10Oh, we can't all be the Baltic Flour Mill, can we?

0:16:10 > 0:16:14It's all right for that, that's been turned into a poncey arts centre.

0:16:14 > 0:16:16They're tearing me down.

0:16:16 > 0:16:18What's so good about the Baltic?

0:16:20 > 0:16:23It's a shame to lose such a wonderful industrial monument.

0:16:23 > 0:16:28I do hope they replace it with something nice.

0:16:28 > 0:16:29An ASDA, perhaps.

0:16:31 > 0:16:34Enormous cable layers aren't they, look at them.

0:16:34 > 0:16:36Yeah.

0:16:36 > 0:16:40They must be for the rigs, they've got massive cables,

0:16:40 > 0:16:42submarine cables.

0:16:42 > 0:16:44Is that what a submarine cable is?

0:16:44 > 0:16:49What, did you think it was a cable that sent soup down to the submarine?

0:16:49 > 0:16:51Yes.

0:16:56 > 0:16:58From the mouth of the River Tyne

0:16:58 > 0:17:01it's 50 nautical miles to Hartlepool.

0:17:01 > 0:17:06The name Hartlepool is derived from old English, hart, meaning stag,

0:17:06 > 0:17:08and lepool, meaning by the sea.

0:17:08 > 0:17:11So, stags by the sea.

0:17:15 > 0:17:18I hope my friend the stag has had a word with the North Sea

0:17:18 > 0:17:20and told him to stay calm.

0:17:22 > 0:17:25In time-honoured fashion,

0:17:25 > 0:17:26I'm a bag of nerves.

0:17:28 > 0:17:3310 miles to the first wave point, second wave point.

0:17:33 > 0:17:38What I'm worried about is we're going to get to Hartlepool

0:17:38 > 0:17:41and there's not going to be enough water to get in.

0:17:41 > 0:17:43Oh, we will.

0:17:43 > 0:17:44What, do you know why?

0:17:44 > 0:17:47Yes, I heard you talking to the man.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51- There will be. - What man? The woman I was talking to?- The woman, then.

0:17:51 > 0:17:54I heard you talking to the woman, there will be enough to get in tonight.

0:17:54 > 0:17:56- You don't know that.- I do.

0:17:56 > 0:18:00You don't know. You don't know, no.

0:18:00 > 0:18:02You don't know.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04From here we can see Middlesbrough,

0:18:04 > 0:18:07even though it's further down the coast from Hartlepool.

0:18:07 > 0:18:12And you can see why they call them "smoggies".

0:18:12 > 0:18:15You know, people talk about Middlesbrough and say,

0:18:15 > 0:18:16"oh, it's smoggy,"

0:18:16 > 0:18:21but there's something really beautiful about it,

0:18:21 > 0:18:24you know, in a very industrial way.

0:18:24 > 0:18:26I don't know whether it's beautiful to live there,

0:18:26 > 0:18:30- I'm sure people love it. - Of course they do. - I'm sure some people hate it.

0:18:30 > 0:18:34And there's Hartlepool, top corner of the Victoria docks, I think it's called.

0:18:34 > 0:18:36We're going to go around there in a minute

0:18:36 > 0:18:40and hopefully not run aground because we're at low tide.

0:18:40 > 0:18:43- So we have to be very, very careful. - We're not going to run aground.

0:18:50 > 0:18:55Mercifully, there's just enough water to allow us safely into the marina.

0:18:58 > 0:19:03But there are no stags to greet us. Instead, there's a monkey.

0:19:03 > 0:19:05A famous monkey.

0:19:06 > 0:19:09It too arrived by sea, during the Napoleonic Wars.

0:19:09 > 0:19:14It was the only survivor from a French shipwreck.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17The townsfolk decided it was a spy and hanged it.

0:19:17 > 0:19:20Poor little blighter.

0:19:20 > 0:19:22We are in Hartlepools!

0:19:22 > 0:19:25Hartlepool, Hartlepools!

0:19:25 > 0:19:27Another one, another one ticked off.

0:19:30 > 0:19:33As the sea is calm, I'm hoping to be off tomorrow.

0:19:33 > 0:19:36We'll have to do Hartlepool another time.

0:19:43 > 0:19:45It does look a bit fresh out there.

0:19:45 > 0:19:48I'm doing that, pretending I got a telescope.

0:19:48 > 0:19:51It does help, actually, to concentrate your eyes.

0:19:51 > 0:19:53It's white horses.

0:19:53 > 0:19:58The forecast says it's slight sea.

0:19:58 > 0:20:02It looks all right, we can always come back.

0:20:03 > 0:20:08Yeah, we're going that way to Whitby,

0:20:08 > 0:20:14the entrance to Whitby can be a bit...uh, rough.

0:20:14 > 0:20:18I think, I'm going to have to go back and read up on this.

0:20:20 > 0:20:22Yeah, I've got to think about it.

0:20:32 > 0:20:36I've read about it and I've thought about it

0:20:36 > 0:20:38and I've decided to go.

0:20:56 > 0:21:00Why do I do it? Why do I do it?

0:21:04 > 0:21:07Perhaps I didn't think about it hard enough.

0:21:15 > 0:21:18This is too much for us, Shane.

0:21:18 > 0:21:20I think this is too much for us.

0:21:23 > 0:21:26I think we might have to turn round, love.

0:21:30 > 0:21:34We're going backwards now, we're going the wrong way.

0:21:34 > 0:21:37We're fine, we're fine.

0:21:37 > 0:21:42I've got... No, we're going back.

0:21:42 > 0:21:45Look at it. Look at it.

0:21:45 > 0:21:49That's it, I've had enough, we're going back.

0:21:49 > 0:21:52I'm not putting myself through this again.

0:21:52 > 0:21:56What's the point? It's supposed to be fun, isn't it?

0:21:56 > 0:21:58I'm ashamed, but...

0:21:58 > 0:22:00It's nothing to do with being ashamed,

0:22:00 > 0:22:02it's to do with being sensible.

0:22:02 > 0:22:04For God's sake.

0:22:07 > 0:22:10We might be stuck in Hartlepool for the next three weeks.

0:22:10 > 0:22:12Worse places to be.

0:22:12 > 0:22:14Yeah.

0:22:16 > 0:22:18Whitby will have to wait.

0:22:18 > 0:22:22Going back for at least another night in Hartlepool.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25Oh, well, that was horrendous.

0:22:25 > 0:22:28So we'll get to see the town after all.

0:22:40 > 0:22:41Bloody hell.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46Aren't you going to lock that?

0:22:46 > 0:22:48Yeah, I'm just having a look at the wind.

0:22:48 > 0:22:50It's...

0:22:54 > 0:22:56No, we wouldn't...

0:22:56 > 0:23:01We thought yesterday was bad, it would be terrible out there today.

0:23:03 > 0:23:05The North Sea has got us trapped here,

0:23:05 > 0:23:08so we might as well take in a few sights.

0:23:10 > 0:23:12"Jump back in time."

0:23:12 > 0:23:15"It's got the story of Hartlepool brought to life to you."

0:23:15 > 0:23:19Hartlepool's reproduced harbour portrays what life was like

0:23:19 > 0:23:22in the British seaport in the 18th century.

0:23:26 > 0:23:30They're actually very nice, they're very nice models actually.

0:23:30 > 0:23:34Sometimes they're not, are they? They're beautifully made.

0:23:34 > 0:23:36I like it, I like it.

0:23:37 > 0:23:41I likes it, it's really nice.

0:23:41 > 0:23:46I could play him. Shane, don't I...? We look alike, don't we?

0:23:48 > 0:23:51Perhaps he is based on me.

0:23:53 > 0:23:55No, he's got too much chin.

0:23:57 > 0:24:03This place is also home to the oldest floating warship in Britain,

0:24:03 > 0:24:04HMS Trincomalee.

0:24:04 > 0:24:08She was built in Bombay in 1817,

0:24:08 > 0:24:12and was the last of Nelson's frigates.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17- Beautifully done, isn't it?- Yeah. - Beautifully preserved.

0:24:17 > 0:24:22Can you imagine the smell and the row in here? The noise.

0:24:22 > 0:24:25Sometimes used to blow up, didn't they, as well?

0:24:25 > 0:24:27Which way do you want to go next?

0:24:27 > 0:24:29Up the end there.

0:24:29 > 0:24:33A frigate is a light, fast and agile warship.

0:24:33 > 0:24:38They were used by the grand fleets of their day as predators

0:24:38 > 0:24:42to seek out and destroy hostile merchantman, slavers or pirates.

0:24:43 > 0:24:48The sight of a frigate bearing down on you instilled real terror.

0:24:48 > 0:24:50Is this for the, um...?

0:24:51 > 0:24:55I suppose this is the officers dining place here.

0:24:55 > 0:24:57- The mess.- Look at all this.

0:24:57 > 0:24:59Potatoes.

0:24:59 > 0:25:03Imagine being down here when it's all over the place.

0:25:03 > 0:25:07What were those canons firing?

0:25:07 > 0:25:10They'd have had that walk, the sailor's waddle.

0:25:10 > 0:25:11I'm done now.

0:25:13 > 0:25:17Shane and I can do a museum in 25 minutes.

0:25:17 > 0:25:20We went to Versailles once,

0:25:20 > 0:25:23we did that in 18 minutes.

0:25:23 > 0:25:27Luckily I went back though,

0:25:27 > 0:25:34because, I went because I was supposed to, we had to film in Versailles, so...

0:25:36 > 0:25:42Present-day Hartlepool is the amalgamation of two towns -

0:25:42 > 0:25:44West Hartlepool

0:25:44 > 0:25:46and old Hartlepool,

0:25:46 > 0:25:49that's why it's often called Hartlepools.

0:25:49 > 0:25:51Early in the 20th century,

0:25:51 > 0:25:54it was home to over 40 ship-owning companies,

0:25:54 > 0:25:58making it a key target for Germany in the First World War.

0:26:02 > 0:26:06"This tablet marks the place where the first shell

0:26:06 > 0:26:12"from the leading German battle cruiser struck at 8:10am

0:26:12 > 0:26:13"on 16 December, 1914,

0:26:13 > 0:26:17"and also records the place where, during the bombardment,

0:26:17 > 0:26:23"the first soldier was killed on British soil by enemy action in the Great War."

0:26:23 > 0:26:27The bombardment lasted 40 minutes.

0:26:27 > 0:26:30More than 1,000 shells rained down on the town

0:26:30 > 0:26:34as the coastal defence batteries returned fire.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37Three German ships were damaged,

0:26:37 > 0:26:39but the town lost 117 people.

0:26:53 > 0:26:56At last, the wind has calmed,

0:26:56 > 0:27:00and as much as we love Hartlepools, it's time we are on our way.

0:27:03 > 0:27:08Our next destination takes us into the largest county in Britain, Yorkshire.

0:27:08 > 0:27:10We're on our way to Whitby.

0:27:12 > 0:27:16The clouds aren't moving so fast, so I think we're going to be fine,

0:27:16 > 0:27:18and the sun's out.

0:27:18 > 0:27:21But it was such an anti-climax last time, you know.

0:27:21 > 0:27:24You do all that rope stuff, and the gates open,

0:27:24 > 0:27:26and then we came back two hours later.

0:27:26 > 0:27:32C'est la vie, it's better than coming back with a lifeboat anyway.

0:27:32 > 0:27:37It's only 25 nautical miles to Whitby.

0:27:37 > 0:27:41Please, please, let it stay like this.

0:27:51 > 0:27:53There's the man himself, Captain Cook,

0:27:53 > 0:27:56with his dividers in his hands, look. I've got a pair of them.

0:27:56 > 0:28:00# You need hands to... #

0:28:00 > 0:28:01Just put it in the pan.

0:28:01 > 0:28:03Don't do that!

0:28:05 > 0:28:07I don't like that noise.

0:28:07 > 0:28:10- It's fine.- No, it's not fine.

0:28:16 > 0:28:17Another lovely day at sea.

0:28:24 > 0:28:27Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd