0:00:02 > 0:00:04BEEPING
0:00:04 > 0:00:06Something's gone wrong.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- Er, Shane?- Yeah?
0:00:09 > 0:00:12Come up here a minute. Something's gone wrong.
0:00:14 > 0:00:17We lost our position but I don't know what's wrong with this.
0:00:17 > 0:00:18It's not working.
0:00:21 > 0:00:24BEEPING
0:00:24 > 0:00:25It's back again.
0:00:28 > 0:00:30Thank God for that.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33I just turned the bloody light off, that's all.
0:00:35 > 0:00:40MUSIC: "Somewhere At Sea" by Henry Hall
0:00:40 > 0:00:43'I'm Timothy Spall and this is my wife Shane,
0:00:43 > 0:00:47'and we're on the journey of a lifetime -
0:00:47 > 0:00:49'circumnavigating the British Isles...
0:00:50 > 0:00:51'..in a barge.
0:00:53 > 0:00:58'So far this year, we've rounded most of Wales...'
0:00:58 > 0:01:02The boat cut itself this lovely wash. It's poetry in motion, isn't it?
0:01:05 > 0:01:07This could be the Greek Islands,
0:01:07 > 0:01:10it could be the Caribbean or it could even be Wales.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13'..and now, we're heading up to the northwest of England,
0:01:13 > 0:01:15'through Merseyside...'
0:01:15 > 0:01:18Whatever they've set him in, it's pretty bloody good.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21Jimi Hendrix. I say.
0:01:21 > 0:01:23'..and on to Lancashire...'
0:01:23 > 0:01:25Now, how the hell do we get there?
0:01:25 > 0:01:27'..one port at a time.'
0:01:27 > 0:01:30You want one kipper? That won't get you very far.
0:01:32 > 0:01:37# Somewhere at sea. #
0:01:42 > 0:01:45'Today, we're crossing the border,
0:01:45 > 0:01:47'as we leave Conwy, North Wales,
0:01:47 > 0:01:53'and travel 60 nautical miles up the Irish Sea to Liverpool, England.'
0:01:53 > 0:01:56Never been to Liverpool. Never been to Liverpool.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59All the times I've worked in Manchester...
0:02:01 > 0:02:03..worked up north - I've never been.
0:02:03 > 0:02:08Because, you know, one of our great delights
0:02:08 > 0:02:10is arriving in places we've never been before by sea...
0:02:12 > 0:02:15..which, of course, is how everybody else used to do it.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22That's a dredger, I think.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25Oh, no, look, it's got a buoy, it's got a cardinal buoy on it.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27- Ooh, how lovely! - He's putting a buoy.
0:02:27 > 0:02:28- Take a picture.- Oh, I'm excited!
0:02:28 > 0:02:31See that yellow thing on the front of it, there?
0:02:31 > 0:02:37That is a north cardinal buoy, which they'll put down there somewhere.
0:02:37 > 0:02:42That means it'll mark the northerly tip of a hazard or a channel.
0:02:42 > 0:02:44You can tell it's north cardinal
0:02:44 > 0:02:48because it's got... The two cones point upwards.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50I hope they're not placing it on a hazard
0:02:50 > 0:02:52that we're supposed to be avoiding!
0:02:55 > 0:02:57'We'll be returning to buoys very soon.
0:03:02 > 0:03:06'Ships enter Liverpool along a man-made channel.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10'Between 1890 and 1900,
0:03:10 > 0:03:13'7 million tonnes of the seabed
0:03:13 > 0:03:16'were dredged out to create a 12-mile channel,
0:03:16 > 0:03:18'deep enough for large shipping.
0:03:18 > 0:03:23'It's another of the great Victorian feats of engineering
0:03:23 > 0:03:24'and is named the Queen's Channel.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28'It's marked out by numbered buoys.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31'But I'm going to stay just outside
0:03:31 > 0:03:34'to make sure we avoid the huge tankers and ferries.'
0:03:39 > 0:03:42Mersey Radio, Mersey Radio, this is Princess Matilda, over.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47Yeah? What's your intentions, please? Over.
0:03:47 > 0:03:49Mersey Radio, this is Princess Matilda.
0:03:49 > 0:03:51Our intention is to enter the Mersey
0:03:51 > 0:03:54and continue to Brunswick Marina, over.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00Yeah, do you have charts with you?
0:04:00 > 0:04:03Do I have charts with me? I have all sorts of charts and equipment, yeah.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05We've just come from Conwy, over.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10Yeah, and have you plotted your position on the charts
0:04:10 > 0:04:12at this time, over?
0:04:12 > 0:04:14Yes, I have a position on the charts.
0:04:14 > 0:04:20I have a Garmin GPS map and a Raymarine and I have radar, over.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23Yeah, erm...
0:04:23 > 0:04:28On our radar here, you're well out of the channel at the moment, over.
0:04:28 > 0:04:32Yes, I'm out of the channel because I'm avoiding the ferries, over.
0:04:33 > 0:04:39Yeah, our advice would be to turn to starboard and head out to the west.
0:04:39 > 0:04:44Rejoin the channel between Q3 and Q5 buoys, over.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46OK, will do, Mersey Radio.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49Thank you very much. This is Princess Matilda, over.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- Princess Matilda?- Hi, Mersey Radio, this is Princess Matilda, over.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03Yes. Are you turning to starboard? Over.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05I am turning to starboard now, over.
0:05:06 > 0:05:09Yeah, we'd advise not to come any further north, captain.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13Turn to starboard and proceed to the west, over.
0:05:13 > 0:05:16Thank you very much, can I go through these, erm...
0:05:16 > 0:05:19Can I go through these, erm, wind farms? Over.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24Negative, no. Keep to the north of the wind farm,
0:05:24 > 0:05:26keep north of the wind farm, over.
0:05:26 > 0:05:29Keep north of the wind farm. OK, thank you.
0:05:30 > 0:05:31And which way's north?
0:05:31 > 0:05:34MUMBLED SPEECH ON RADIO
0:05:36 > 0:05:38Right, right, I'm thoroughly confused.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40Well, that's the main channel.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44'For some reason, I'm being told to join the channel.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47'Not only that, but I'm being sent miles backwards to do so.
0:05:49 > 0:05:50'In all my years of sailing,
0:05:50 > 0:05:55'every major port has told me to stay out of the shipping channel.'
0:05:55 > 0:05:58So, he's sent us all the way back to join the channel
0:05:58 > 0:06:00about five miles back there
0:06:00 > 0:06:02when we were just about to turn into it.
0:06:04 > 0:06:07'It would appear Mersey Radio don't allow you to enter Liverpool
0:06:07 > 0:06:11'unless you're inside the Queen's Channel,
0:06:11 > 0:06:16'and we've been told you have to join it between Q3 and Q5.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21'We've just spent an hour going around in a circle.'
0:06:23 > 0:06:25What a funny old journey that was.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27Bloody hell, had a bit of everything, didn't it?
0:06:27 > 0:06:29Anyway, we're here.
0:06:30 > 0:06:35- Whoa! Bloody hell! Where did that come from? Nearly hit the bugger! - Oh, my God!
0:06:35 > 0:06:36All right.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54HE LAUGHS
0:06:54 > 0:06:55No, Tim, it's not funny.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58Tim, it's not funny!
0:06:58 > 0:07:01'Liverpool is still a major British city.
0:07:02 > 0:07:06'But back in the 19th century, it was a behemoth.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10'40 per cent of the world's trade passed through their docks.
0:07:13 > 0:07:17'The ensuing wealth is reflected in its buildings,
0:07:17 > 0:07:20'like the magnificent Liver Building.
0:07:25 > 0:07:27'It's been a bit of a journey, today.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30'Being sent this way, then that way,
0:07:30 > 0:07:35'then the other by Mersey Radio has rather knocked my confidence.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38'I mean, partly, it was my fault because I didn't...
0:07:38 > 0:07:40'You know, we left Conwy in a rush
0:07:40 > 0:07:43'and I only researched the sea passage,
0:07:43 > 0:07:46'I didn't research the passage in.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48'I don't think we were in danger,
0:07:48 > 0:07:52'he was just a very prescriptive radio controller.'
0:07:55 > 0:07:58Get her on to a cleat as quick as you can.
0:07:58 > 0:08:00Double it round. That's it, well done.
0:08:00 > 0:08:04Perfect, perfect. We're in. Whoo!
0:08:16 > 0:08:18Yeah, they're all there, look.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21'There are many places to visit in Liverpool,
0:08:21 > 0:08:24'but one place I've particularly been looking forward to
0:08:24 > 0:08:25'is Crosby Beach.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30'Shane's sister, Jac, and her friend, Margaret, have joined us.'
0:08:30 > 0:08:36Look at that! And that! No wonder he put them here, look. With that.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- Look at that one there.- Yeah.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43'Crosby Beach is home to Antony Gormley's
0:08:43 > 0:08:45'Another Place installation.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50'There are 100 cast-iron, life-size figures
0:08:50 > 0:08:53'spread out along two miles of the shore
0:08:53 > 0:08:55'and two thirds of a mile out to sea.'
0:09:00 > 0:09:03This one's buried, look. Mind how you...
0:09:03 > 0:09:07Do you think he was buried or has the sand just come up over him?
0:09:07 > 0:09:11Well, it's hard to say because I think what he was doing
0:09:11 > 0:09:14was putting them all at different levels.
0:09:14 > 0:09:15Look, I mean...
0:09:15 > 0:09:19But there's something absolutely beautiful. Look at them!
0:09:19 > 0:09:24I can't ever remember seeing anything
0:09:24 > 0:09:26quite so spectacular...
0:09:28 > 0:09:30..as the loneliness and the simplicity
0:09:30 > 0:09:36and almost the sinister quality of these figures.
0:09:37 > 0:09:39'In November 2006,
0:09:39 > 0:09:42'the statues were expected to move to New York.
0:09:43 > 0:09:45'But after a successful appeal,
0:09:45 > 0:09:48'they will now remain here permanently.'
0:09:51 > 0:09:53Look at it. Oh, look. Look!
0:09:54 > 0:09:57The beauty of that. That's another thing about why it's so good.
0:09:58 > 0:10:02I love the way it's covered in all those crustaceans from the sea.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04It's... Yeah.
0:10:06 > 0:10:11'The statues have all been positioned so that they are facing out to sea.
0:10:11 > 0:10:16'It's supposed to show the sentiments associated with emigration -
0:10:16 > 0:10:23'the sadness at leaving, but the hope of a new future in Another Place.'
0:10:23 > 0:10:26- It'll change. - They change every single day.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29Whatever they've put him... Whatever they've set him in,
0:10:29 > 0:10:31it's pretty bloody good.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- Look at that.- Yeah. - I bet it'll really...- Yeah.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37And eventually, I mean,
0:10:37 > 0:10:40if they're allowed to stay here for thousands of years,
0:10:40 > 0:10:42they'll go away - they'll just be eroded.
0:10:45 > 0:10:47It's wonderful, isn't it?
0:10:49 > 0:10:51'Liverpool's glorious industrial past
0:10:51 > 0:10:56'earned it the moniker, the New York of Europe.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59'But there's one thing, or rather four things,
0:10:59 > 0:11:02'which really put it on the map -
0:11:02 > 0:11:03'The Beatles.'
0:11:03 > 0:11:07I must probably be the 18 millionth person ever to have done this.
0:11:09 > 0:11:13There's John Lennon. The genius of John Lennon.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16This is... This, as you see up there,
0:11:16 > 0:11:20Cavern, Liverpool Pub, is The Cavern.
0:11:20 > 0:11:22This is where The Beatles first played.
0:11:22 > 0:11:25But it isn't, actually. Evidently, it was over there.
0:11:25 > 0:11:29So, they've changed the location to here
0:11:29 > 0:11:33and what they've done on this wall, as a tribute,
0:11:33 > 0:11:36is every brick from the ground level
0:11:36 > 0:11:40up to about 25 foot has all the names...
0:11:41 > 0:11:43..of the people who played in The Cavern.
0:11:43 > 0:11:45Cilla Black was the coat-check girl.
0:11:45 > 0:11:46And look...
0:11:47 > 0:11:51..Alan Price Set, Richie Havens,
0:11:51 > 0:11:54The Hollies, John Lee Hooker.
0:11:54 > 0:11:56Nazareth!
0:11:56 > 0:11:59Jimi Hendrix. I say.
0:11:59 > 0:12:00Ding, dong!
0:12:04 > 0:12:07'Pilgrimage over and we're back on board.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13'We're on our way to Glasson Dock,
0:12:13 > 0:12:17'60 nautical miles up the coast into rural Lancashire,
0:12:17 > 0:12:19'passing Blackpool along the way.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23'After my fiasco getting into Liverpool,
0:12:23 > 0:12:26'I'm determined to get it right today.'
0:12:26 > 0:12:29You know, I've poured over that for two hours,
0:12:29 > 0:12:30hoping I've got it right.
0:12:31 > 0:12:35But I'm a bit worried about it.
0:12:35 > 0:12:39'Glasson Dock sits at the mouth of the River Lune,
0:12:39 > 0:12:42'which is so shallow that you can only enter it
0:12:42 > 0:12:46'during a 45 minute window around high tide.
0:12:46 > 0:12:48'At all other times, the gate is closed.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53'My plan is to get us to the Lune River buoy
0:12:53 > 0:12:55'and wait for high tide.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58'What could possibly go wrong?'
0:12:58 > 0:13:00I never thought I'd see Blackpool this way.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05I'm afraid we can't go too close because there's a danger line there.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14Yeah, that's where we're going, up there.
0:13:16 > 0:13:18It's a lovely sea, absolutely beautiful.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22- It's a lovely afternoon, isn't it? - Yeah.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31I might put some baked potatoes on for our tea.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33No, no, no, no, no!
0:13:33 > 0:13:37I don't think we're going to get anything to eat in Glasson Dock.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39No, neither do I, but it's only a five...
0:13:39 > 0:13:42We won't get settled down till ten, anyway.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45- Well, I'm going to put a baked potato on.- I don't want that.
0:13:46 > 0:13:48Well, I'm going to have a baked potato.
0:13:50 > 0:13:54- I can't see any other buoy out there. - No, I can't see anything at all.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58I can't see any other buoys. That's the only one I can see.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01Yeah, I can't see a name on it.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04Oh, well, you will. It'll have Lune written on it.
0:14:04 > 0:14:08- It's a big bugger. It's got to be it, isn't it?- It's got to be it.
0:14:11 > 0:14:14- Oh, actually, I've got this wrong. - Why?
0:14:16 > 0:14:18That's the Lune Deep. I should be going...
0:14:18 > 0:14:20I should be there - River Lune.
0:14:21 > 0:14:23Now, how the hell do we get there?
0:14:25 > 0:14:27Yeah, I don't know where I am, actually.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35'I've only gone and messed up again.
0:14:35 > 0:14:37'We're supposed to be at the Lune River buoy.
0:14:37 > 0:14:41'Instead, I've taken us to the Lune Deep buoy.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45'Oh, bloody hell!'
0:14:45 > 0:14:48- There it is.- Got it?- There it is.
0:14:50 > 0:14:51Bloody miles from it.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54'It's now a race against time
0:14:54 > 0:14:57'to catch high tide and make that 45 minute window.'
0:15:01 > 0:15:04MUSIC: "Shout For Happiness" by Al Bowlly
0:15:08 > 0:15:10At last!
0:15:12 > 0:15:13Right.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18Glasson Dock, Glasson Dock, this is The Princess Matilda. Over.
0:15:22 > 0:15:23Hi, Glasson Dock.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26Yeah, we've just made a complete tit of ourselves.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30We've now found the Lune River buoy.
0:15:31 > 0:15:35Will we have enough time to get up and get into your lock? Over.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38Princess Matilda, this is Glasson Dock.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40What speed can you make? Over.
0:15:42 > 0:15:46Well, at the moment, we're doing 8.8 knots through the water, over.
0:15:47 > 0:15:49I'm sorry,
0:15:49 > 0:15:54we don't have enough time, now, to get you into the dock.
0:15:57 > 0:16:00'Oh, great. That's the last thing I wanted to hear.
0:16:00 > 0:16:04'The harbour master has just said we won't make it,
0:16:04 > 0:16:06'so that leaves us only one option.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10'We're going to have to anchor in the bay overnight.'
0:16:11 > 0:16:13Thank you very much, over. Thank you.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15Hello, is that Tim, by the way? Over.
0:16:17 > 0:16:20Yes, this is Tim Spall, Tim and Shane Spall, yeah.
0:16:21 > 0:16:25Doing our round Britain tour and getting it wrong every now and again.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27HE LAUGHS
0:16:29 > 0:16:32Well, this'll be our first night ever anchoring.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35I feel like such a tit!
0:16:43 > 0:16:45It should hold.
0:16:45 > 0:16:47Jellyfish coming to say hello.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54- Pretty place, isn't it? - Are we holding, Timmy?
0:16:54 > 0:16:56I think so.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- Cheers.- Cheers, darling. - Here's to our first night at anchor.
0:17:06 > 0:17:07We ain't done it yet.
0:17:07 > 0:17:11We might end up on a bloody sandbank or being rammed by a German U-boat.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14No, we'll be fine. We knew we'd have to do it one day.
0:17:25 > 0:17:28I don't think any of the bigger ships will come over here -
0:17:28 > 0:17:30it's too shallow.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42Oh, it's really handsome, isn't it?
0:17:42 > 0:17:44It's lovely.
0:17:44 > 0:17:47'Well, we've survived our first night at anchor.
0:17:48 > 0:17:50'Although I must have been up about five times
0:17:50 > 0:17:53'just checking we hadn't drifted out to sea.'
0:17:54 > 0:17:56Last night was a mixture of...
0:17:57 > 0:17:59..fun and horror.
0:18:02 > 0:18:04Fun-orror, fun-orror.
0:18:04 > 0:18:07It's a new word to do with boating.
0:18:10 > 0:18:13'The route in is prone to shifting sands.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16'We could easily run aground.
0:18:16 > 0:18:18'I've thrown in the towel.
0:18:18 > 0:18:20'I'm being lead in by a pilot boat.'
0:18:25 > 0:18:27This is exciting, isn't it?
0:18:28 > 0:18:31- It's a blessed relief.- Yeah.
0:18:31 > 0:18:35- Look at those swans coming out of the lock.- Blimey, yeah!
0:18:37 > 0:18:38Hundreds of them.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43'The Lune river has always been a problem for ships
0:18:43 > 0:18:44'getting up into Lancaster,
0:18:44 > 0:18:48'so in 1787, they built Glasson Dock.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55'For boat lovers like us, it's a dream location,
0:18:55 > 0:18:58'as the Irish Sea, the Lune Estuary
0:18:58 > 0:19:02'and the Lancashire canal network all come together right here.'
0:19:06 > 0:19:07There we go.
0:19:08 > 0:19:12See? I mean, we live in 2010.
0:19:12 > 0:19:142010!
0:19:14 > 0:19:17And people still opening and shutting gates with windlasses.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21I used to hate doing that when I was on the canals.
0:19:24 > 0:19:25Hiya, mate!
0:19:27 > 0:19:30'Before Shane and I set off on this wonderful adventure,
0:19:30 > 0:19:34'we'd spent years on narrowboats on the canals.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38'This is the first time we'll have been back on one in six years.'
0:19:38 > 0:19:40You want to get in this side?
0:19:41 > 0:19:44It's your wallet. Your wallet's sinking!
0:19:44 > 0:19:46Your wallet's sinking! Oh!
0:19:46 > 0:19:47Got it!
0:19:49 > 0:19:52Do you want to put it in there, darling? You do it every time.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56There's a five pound... Wet five pound note.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- Wet dollar, that's always in there... - All right, give us it here.
0:19:59 > 0:20:01..and the rest of my bloody, er...
0:20:02 > 0:20:04- Well spotted, love. - It's cos I've seen it before.
0:20:04 > 0:20:08- Here, have a fiver for your trouble. - Thank you.
0:20:16 > 0:20:17Oh, no, no, no, no!
0:20:17 > 0:20:18Oh!
0:20:20 > 0:20:23- Sorry. Whoa!- Windy.
0:20:23 > 0:20:25Yeah, it is windy, isn't it?
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- Very pleasant.- Isn't it beautiful?
0:20:42 > 0:20:44Gosh, Tim, it's really shallow there.
0:20:44 > 0:20:46Our boat was about that size, the other one.
0:20:46 > 0:20:47Canals dip in the middle.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50The deepest part of the canal is the middle,
0:20:50 > 0:20:52so you always keep to the centre.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01Do you know how the canals came about?
0:21:01 > 0:21:04They worked out...
0:21:06 > 0:21:07..that one horse...
0:21:09 > 0:21:12..could pull three times the amount of cargo
0:21:12 > 0:21:14than six horses could on a cart.
0:21:14 > 0:21:15They were all privately owned.
0:21:15 > 0:21:17They started in the Midlands...
0:21:18 > 0:21:21..which then became the Grand Union Canal.
0:21:21 > 0:21:23- It's very bucolic.- Yeah.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26Very, er, benign.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30But you don't get the same sense of achievement
0:21:30 > 0:21:33as you do when you come round Land's End.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- How are you going to get off? - Same way you did.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46'Before the dock was built,
0:21:46 > 0:21:50'this area was no more than a few farm buildings
0:21:50 > 0:21:55'and a small fishing community known as Old Glasson and Brows-Saltcote.'
0:21:56 > 0:22:01So, where we are is Glasson Basin Marina.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04This is actually Glasson Dock.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06This is the sea dock.
0:22:07 > 0:22:09Would you like to get some kippers?
0:22:09 > 0:22:11Do me some kippers for the morning.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14- Do me a kipper.- All right, then.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17They're all outside. Here, I'll show you them.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20- OK.- It's two pairs for £5.- OK. - They're just outside.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- So, that's locally done? - It is. These are local kippers.
0:22:23 > 0:22:28- Did you catch them?- No, I catch wild salmon and sea trout.- OK, you do?
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- Oh, my God. Look at that. - There we go.
0:22:32 > 0:22:33So, which one do you want, Tim?
0:22:33 > 0:22:35Well, I don't know, am I allowed to buy one?
0:22:35 > 0:22:38- You want one kipper?- Yeah. - That's not going to get you far.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42Well, we're going to have to turn the fridge off in the boat.
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- No, we can leave the fridge on because...- You don't need a fridge. - Don't you?- No.
0:22:46 > 0:22:48- Shall we have a couple, then? - Two pairs?
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- Yeah, two pairs.- Two pairs, yes. - Four kippers.- Yeah, lovely.
0:22:51 > 0:22:56- So, what is a kipper? - It's a mackerel, isn't it?
0:22:57 > 0:23:00- Herring.- Herring. That's it, yeah.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02- Once smoked, it becomes a kipper. - That's it.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04Where's next? Workington?
0:23:04 > 0:23:06- Er, well...- We don't know.
0:23:06 > 0:23:08We were going to go to Whitehaven
0:23:08 > 0:23:11but we might go up to Piel Island and have a look up there.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- You should do that.- Is it nice?
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- Only 60 miles from here.- Is it?
0:23:16 > 0:23:19Oh, my God! These are wild salmon, are they?
0:23:19 > 0:23:21Wild salmon and sea trout.
0:23:21 > 0:23:24- Good God.- That's your salmon, that's your sea trout.
0:23:24 > 0:23:26- Sea trout's...- Flipping hell!
0:23:26 > 0:23:28- Beautiful fish. - You've got a lovely stock here.
0:23:28 > 0:23:32I mean, I'm going to get out of here before I spend any more money!
0:23:33 > 0:23:35See you!
0:23:49 > 0:23:51'Now, I've met a few important people in my time,
0:23:51 > 0:23:54'but never a king.
0:23:54 > 0:23:56'However, today, that might just change.'
0:23:57 > 0:23:59We're aiming to go to Piel Island,
0:23:59 > 0:24:02which is a funny little island...
0:24:06 > 0:24:08..on the way to Barrow-in-Furness,
0:24:08 > 0:24:13tucked in the Barrow Channel behind Walney Island.
0:24:13 > 0:24:16The thing about Piel Island, what is it? The governor of the pub?
0:24:16 > 0:24:19- He's their king.- The governor of the pub is the king of the island.
0:24:19 > 0:24:22Officially. It's true.
0:24:22 > 0:24:25'This is probably the shortest journey we'll make
0:24:25 > 0:24:28'on our round-Britain adventure.
0:24:28 > 0:24:32'It's only 12 miles across Morecambe Bay,
0:24:32 > 0:24:34'but it ain't half lumpy.'
0:24:35 > 0:24:38Hold on, Shane! Hold on, hold on! Sit down!
0:24:42 > 0:24:44'I hope this king thing is worth it.
0:24:50 > 0:24:51'It's hard to believe,
0:24:51 > 0:24:55'but this is the same Irish Sea we anchored in overnight.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58'Thank God it wasn't like this.'
0:25:09 > 0:25:13'Piel Island is a mere 50 acres in size.
0:25:13 > 0:25:16'It has a population of four
0:25:16 > 0:25:19'and most of them run the 18th century Ship Inn.
0:25:20 > 0:25:23'Tradition has it that whoever takes up the landlordship
0:25:23 > 0:25:25'becomes the King of Piel.
0:25:27 > 0:25:29'There's also a magnificent ruined castle
0:25:29 > 0:25:32'which, when it was built in 1327,
0:25:32 > 0:25:35'was the largest of its kind in northwest England.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43'We're being picked up by the king's daughter,
0:25:43 > 0:25:44'Princess Nicola.'
0:25:45 > 0:25:48- The kingdom of Piel! - The kingdom of Piel.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51I was reading an old book... A book about five years old,
0:25:51 > 0:25:53that says there's no longer a king
0:25:53 > 0:25:55and I thought, "Oh, that's a shame".
0:25:55 > 0:25:57And then, we spoke to somebody in Glasson
0:25:57 > 0:26:00- and they said, "The king has returned".- Yeah.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02"A new king is born."
0:26:02 > 0:26:04So, you're actually a princess, aren't you?
0:26:09 > 0:26:12'Nicola's parents, Steve and Sheila Chattaway,
0:26:12 > 0:26:15'took over the pub in 2007,
0:26:15 > 0:26:17'making Steve the king.'
0:26:19 > 0:26:21- Welcome to Piel Island. - Hello. How are you, your majesty?
0:26:21 > 0:26:23- Hi.- This is queenie.
0:26:23 > 0:26:27'The crowning takes place in this ancient chair,
0:26:27 > 0:26:28'where the new king,
0:26:28 > 0:26:31'wearing a helmet and holding a sword,
0:26:31 > 0:26:32'is drenched in booze.
0:26:32 > 0:26:34'I hope he kept his mouth open.'
0:26:36 > 0:26:38Oh, did you? Great. Fantastic.
0:26:38 > 0:26:41- Too late. I'm in it.- That's...
0:26:41 > 0:26:43Oh, well. Usurper!
0:26:47 > 0:26:50I tell you what, it's not bad, is it? It's actually...
0:26:50 > 0:26:53- Do you not feel...? - Do you not get a weird feeling?
0:26:53 > 0:26:56- Like pressure?- Just, just... - I do actually, yeah.
0:26:56 > 0:26:58- On your shoulders.- Really heavy.
0:26:58 > 0:27:02- It's actually...- It's really weird, it's very strange.
0:27:02 > 0:27:05- Down here? - It's got a lot of history in it.
0:27:05 > 0:27:08I'll get out of this. I don't want to outstay my welcome.
0:27:08 > 0:27:11- What a wonderful thing. - It's priceless.
0:27:11 > 0:27:14- It means so much to the local people. - Well, it's a museum piece, isn't it?
0:27:14 > 0:27:18That'll have to be in a Lancashire heritage museum.
0:27:18 > 0:27:19You're a museum piece.
0:27:19 > 0:27:23Here you go, here's the regalia.
0:27:23 > 0:27:26- Oh, all right. Shall I put that on? - No, you're not the king.
0:27:26 > 0:27:28No, you can't. Of course you can't.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31- I'll have a look at that. - It used to have a plume on it.
0:27:31 > 0:27:32It's an old cavalry helmet.
0:27:33 > 0:27:35Yes, it is, isn't it?
0:27:35 > 0:27:38There was a big plume on the top - it was fantastic.
0:27:39 > 0:27:42'The first-ever recording of this crowning
0:27:42 > 0:27:45'is in the early 18th century,
0:27:45 > 0:27:48'but no-one is quite sure when it actually started.'
0:27:48 > 0:27:53- It rather... No, it does rather become you, actually. - Fetching. You've got to the...
0:27:53 > 0:27:55'One thing's for sure, though.
0:27:55 > 0:27:59'As long as Steve is the landlord, he'll be King of Piel.'
0:28:03 > 0:28:06- Thank you. I'm going to just do this. - Oh!
0:28:08 > 0:28:10- Bye!- Bye!
0:28:17 > 0:28:19England, Scotland,
0:28:19 > 0:28:23Northern Ireland, Wales, coo!
0:28:23 > 0:28:24RUMBLING
0:28:24 > 0:28:26Oh, there we go again.
0:28:28 > 0:28:30We're just moving into a firing range area
0:28:30 > 0:28:33and we heard some firing.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36# Somewhere at sea
0:28:36 > 0:28:39# Bringing to me
0:28:39 > 0:28:47# A traveller who will build my life anew
0:28:47 > 0:28:50# He's out on the sea... #
0:28:50 > 0:28:53Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:28:53 > 0:28:57E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk