0:00:02 > 0:00:05This week, we're plunging you into the chaotic
0:00:05 > 0:00:07and exhilarating heart of the world's busiest railway.
0:00:11 > 0:00:148 million passengers use these trains each day,
0:00:14 > 0:00:18packed in more tightly than anywhere else on the planet.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22Welcome to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Mumbai.
0:00:22 > 0:00:24Today, this magnificent railway station is
0:00:24 > 0:00:26a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
0:00:26 > 0:00:31It's also from here in 1853 that India's first passenger train
0:00:31 > 0:00:32set off on its maiden journey.
0:00:32 > 0:00:36The railways here really are on a staggering scale.
0:00:36 > 0:00:38It's India's number one employer -
0:00:38 > 0:00:401.3 million people work for them.
0:00:40 > 0:00:44So tonight, we're going to see how this station links Mumbai
0:00:44 > 0:00:46to the rest of India. Here's what's coming up.
0:00:46 > 0:00:50Over four programmes, we're revealing the organisational wonders
0:00:50 > 0:00:53of this super-sized transport operation.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59This time, we're travelling long-distance.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04Anita's already faced crush loading on the commuter trains.
0:01:04 > 0:01:05Tonight, she squashes onboard
0:01:05 > 0:01:09one of India's most popular cross-country routes.
0:01:09 > 0:01:12He's definitely got a good seat up there.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15Morning!
0:01:15 > 0:01:18I continue my examination of the history of train travel...
0:01:20 > 0:01:23..as well as experiencing the super-sized tasks
0:01:23 > 0:01:25facing the station's support teams.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28How many dishes do you have to prepare every day?
0:01:28 > 0:01:31- 4,000.- 4,000?
0:01:31 > 0:01:33Oh, my goodness.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36Robert is focusing on the engineering side of the station.
0:01:36 > 0:01:38Tonight, he sees how they service
0:01:38 > 0:01:42more than half a kilometre of train against the clock,
0:01:42 > 0:01:43and discovers first-hand
0:01:43 > 0:01:47why Indian train drivers earn seven times the national average.
0:01:48 > 0:01:50That is really difficult.
0:01:50 > 0:01:55And we find out how you travel if money's no object.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59This will set you back £600 per person per night.
0:02:01 > 0:02:04Welcome to the world's busiest railway.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27This beautiful building is the departure point for
0:02:27 > 0:02:31one and a half billion railway journeys every year.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34Now, rail travel is incredibly good value in India.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36The fares are kept deliberately low
0:02:36 > 0:02:39to allow the lower paid to be able to travel around the country.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42In fact, in India, you can travel further on the railways
0:02:42 > 0:02:45for one pound than you can anywhere else in the world.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49Here, one pound will buy you 94km of travel,
0:02:49 > 0:02:53whereas back in the UK, it buys you a mere 15km.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57But they are so much more than just a means of getting from A to B.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00They really are the arteries of this country.
0:03:00 > 0:03:02Millions of people rely on them
0:03:02 > 0:03:06to be able to travel across this vast, beautiful nation.
0:03:07 > 0:03:13India is criss-crossed by 65,000km of railway lines.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16Mumbai is one of the most important hubs,
0:03:16 > 0:03:20and this station, CST, is the start and end point
0:03:20 > 0:03:23for more than 100 long-distance services every day.
0:03:25 > 0:03:27We're going to show you the daily operation of this
0:03:27 > 0:03:30side of the station, starting on the concourse,
0:03:30 > 0:03:34where things are a mixture of high and low tech.
0:03:35 > 0:03:38These are the wonderful, massive departure boards
0:03:38 > 0:03:42for the long-distance trains that leave this station.
0:03:42 > 0:03:44Now, there's no digital wizardry here. Look, they're all printed.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47It doesn't change. This is a rigid timetable.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50It remains steady throughout the year, constant,
0:03:50 > 0:03:52and look at all these places you can go.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54I'm almost overwhelmed, it's so exciting.
0:03:54 > 0:03:56All the treasures of the subcontinent laid out before me.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58It makes me want to travel. Here we go.
0:03:58 > 0:03:59Let's see some of these trains.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03This is a very popular one here, the 10111 to Goa.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05It's where everyone around here goes for their holidays.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07Beautiful seaside stretching for miles.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09You get on the train at 11 o'clock at night,
0:04:09 > 0:04:12and you wake up on the beach. Very popular, that one.
0:04:12 > 0:04:14Where else have we got? Ooh, Bangalore.
0:04:14 > 0:04:16I've always wanted to go to Bangalore.
0:04:16 > 0:04:19Strangely, my brilliant old granny in her 90s was born in Bangalore.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21It seems extraordinary. Different world.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23Up there... Ooh, Varanasi.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26Extremely important place, particularly for Hindus.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29It's the place where Hindu families throw the ashes
0:04:29 > 0:04:32of their recently departed relatives into the Ganges river.
0:04:32 > 0:04:35A very sacred thing to do. A very popular destination as well.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38And then we come down here... Ah, this one's very interesting.
0:04:38 > 0:04:43This is the longest train you can get from this station.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46The Kanyakumari Express to the Cape.
0:04:46 > 0:04:51That goes to the very southern tip of India, a long way from here,
0:04:51 > 0:04:56and that journey will take you 44 hours and 15 minutes.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00These trains are the only way for many Indians
0:05:00 > 0:05:02to travel across the country.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06The passengers waiting here are some of the almost 280,000
0:05:06 > 0:05:09who'll start or end their journeys at CST today.
0:05:16 > 0:05:18This part of the station is never quiet.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22The first departure is at five in the morning,
0:05:22 > 0:05:24and the last one goes at close to midnight.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29One of the most popular routes is Mumbai to Kolkata,
0:05:29 > 0:05:33a journey of nearly 2,000km that takes 33 hours.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40Anita bought a ticket on this overnight service
0:05:40 > 0:05:42to see what it's like onboard.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50Here it is. This is my train.
0:05:51 > 0:05:54Around 1,500 of us are travelling tonight,
0:05:54 > 0:05:56but the experience will be very different
0:05:56 > 0:06:01depending on which carriage we're in, and I'm one of the lucky ones.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04I'm booked into first-class, air-conditioned,
0:06:04 > 0:06:06so that I get a good night's sleep.
0:06:09 > 0:06:11Here we go. So now I've got to find my name.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14OK. Rani. And I'm in here.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20This is what a first-class compartment looks like
0:06:20 > 0:06:22on an Indian train.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26A1, this is me. Looks OK.
0:06:27 > 0:06:30This compartment's the most expensive on the train.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33My ticket was £50, which is only affordable
0:06:33 > 0:06:37for foreigners like me or well-off Indians.
0:06:37 > 0:06:39Nice and cool. Right, well, no-one else's here,
0:06:39 > 0:06:41so I'm going to take that one.
0:06:41 > 0:06:45'My luxurious isolation is a world apart from the passengers
0:06:45 > 0:06:48'cramming into the cheapest, unreserved carriages.
0:06:48 > 0:06:51'They're still jumping onboard as we leave.'
0:06:56 > 0:06:57We're off.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07Goodbye, Mumbai.
0:07:09 > 0:07:13First class isn't dissimilar to a sleeper in the UK.
0:07:13 > 0:07:16Four bunks that could be occupied by strangers
0:07:16 > 0:07:18of any age, male or female.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21Tonight, only one other bed's been sold.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- I've been joined by my cabin mate, Arundhati.- Yeah.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- And where are you going, Arundhati?- Champa.
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- How many hours are you travelling? - 23 hours.- 23?
0:07:32 > 0:07:35- Do you always travel by train? - Yes, always, always.
0:07:35 > 0:07:40We have no other mode, because we live in the interior.
0:07:40 > 0:07:44- We live in Korba. It is 40km from Champa.- What do you do?
0:07:44 > 0:07:48I'm running a school for the welfare of the municipal children.
0:07:48 > 0:07:52- I have been here for a workshop. - In Mumbai?- Mumbai, yeah.- OK.
0:07:52 > 0:07:54Do you always travel in first AC?
0:07:54 > 0:07:58No, not always. Whatever ticket we get.
0:07:58 > 0:08:00Well, I'm glad I've got you to talk to, Arundhati.
0:08:00 > 0:08:03- I was worried I was going to be here on my own.- Oh, no! - SHE LAUGHS
0:08:03 > 0:08:08'Included in the price of a first-class ticket is a full dinner.'
0:08:08 > 0:08:11Thank you. Thank you very much.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15So this is my vegetarian feast.
0:08:15 > 0:08:18Look at that! Perfect.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21I've got rice, I've got dhal...
0:08:22 > 0:08:25Mmm. Mmm. The paneer's really spicy.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28I'm in heaven. SHE COUGHS
0:08:28 > 0:08:30I'm also burning my mouth!
0:08:30 > 0:08:31Excuse me a moment.
0:08:31 > 0:08:35I am hardened to chilli, it's just gone down the wrong way.
0:08:39 > 0:08:42'This isn't the fastest journey in the world.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45'With an average speed of just 59km an hour,
0:08:45 > 0:08:50'an hour in, we're still in Mumbai's suburbs.
0:08:50 > 0:08:51'Time to get ready for bed.'
0:08:51 > 0:08:55'I've got clean sheets, but it's pretty cosy in here.'
0:08:55 > 0:08:57Sorry.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01Sorry! THEY LAUGH
0:09:01 > 0:09:02- It's just very tight.- Yeah.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05We'll get to know each other very well, Arundhati!
0:09:11 > 0:09:14I settle in for a comfortable night's sleep,
0:09:14 > 0:09:18chugging along through 550km of India.
0:09:21 > 0:09:22And in the morning,
0:09:22 > 0:09:26I awake to a landscape that's rather different from Mumbai's.
0:09:26 > 0:09:28TRAIN HORNS
0:09:32 > 0:09:36As is obvious from the state of my face, I've just woken up,
0:09:36 > 0:09:39but look! Tea has arrived.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41All is well.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43All is well.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46And out there is a very different part of India.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51Nearly 70% of Indians live in rural areas like this,
0:09:51 > 0:09:53rather than in big cities.
0:09:54 > 0:09:59Of course, Mumbai is India - developed, creative, modern,
0:09:59 > 0:10:01fast-paced, wealthy.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04But this is also very much India, the heartland.
0:10:04 > 0:10:09Tiny villages dotted around in this beautiful landscape.
0:10:09 > 0:10:11And you won't see many cars out here.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18Which is why the railway is so essential.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20For these rural residents,
0:10:20 > 0:10:23it's the only effective way to travel long distance
0:10:23 > 0:10:27and 400 million of them are on the move every year,
0:10:27 > 0:10:32travelling from their birthplace to India's cities to find work.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35It really is the story of the developing world, though, isn't it?
0:10:35 > 0:10:41Rural migration, people leaving their farms behind for economic necessity.
0:10:43 > 0:10:47My experience of train travel in the last 12 hours has been pretty
0:10:47 > 0:10:51relaxing, but I know there'll be lots of economic migrants on this
0:10:51 > 0:10:54train and I want to see how different conditions are for them.
0:10:54 > 0:10:58But I'll only find them in the cheapest section of the train,
0:10:58 > 0:11:01second class unreserved, which means getting
0:11:01 > 0:11:04out of first at the next station and fighting my way on.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08If I can get on. Looks like it's going to be quite busy.
0:11:08 > 0:11:09This might be an issue.
0:11:09 > 0:11:13Unlike the suburban trains where men and women travel separately,
0:11:13 > 0:11:16here everyone is squashed in together.
0:11:16 > 0:11:21This is the cheapest compartment. This is where people are cramming on.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23Standing room only.
0:11:23 > 0:11:28OK, so this, you can see, is a very different experience altogether.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32The one thing we pride ourselves on in the UK is personal space.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35In India, you don't have that privilege.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37This guy has never met this guy before.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39It's the first time they've met on this train.
0:11:39 > 0:11:41But they've got to know each other very well.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45It's a good job it's an open culture where people are prepared to talk to you, isn't it?
0:11:45 > 0:11:48He's definitely got a good seat up there.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50Morning.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53These are the good seats, I think.
0:11:53 > 0:11:57It's just a completely different experience, naturally,
0:11:57 > 0:12:02to first class air conditioned, where I had an entire bunk to myself.
0:12:02 > 0:12:07Here, it's every man and woman for himself. Squeeze in where you can.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11Tickets in here cost about £4 from Mumbai to Kolkata.
0:12:11 > 0:12:14It's a government subsidised fare to make it affordable.
0:12:14 > 0:12:17It might sound cheap but for some of these people,
0:12:17 > 0:12:19that could be two days' wages.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23SHE SPEAKS HINDI
0:12:23 > 0:12:28OK, so they work in Mumbai... They work in steel. Steelworks.
0:12:28 > 0:12:31And they're going home for a month, back to Kolkata,
0:12:31 > 0:12:33the other side of the country.
0:12:33 > 0:12:36And then after a month, they'll go back to Bombay for five,
0:12:36 > 0:12:39six months, a year, however long the contract is.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45The smell, the heat, the crowding in here are pretty overwhelming.
0:12:52 > 0:12:54I've never done that before.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58I've never gone in to what is essentially third class.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01It's the cheapest seats in the house.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05And that is hard work, but that's the reality of...economic,
0:13:05 > 0:13:07developing India.
0:13:07 > 0:13:11Not too dissimilar to what my grandfather did.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15Jumped on a ship and travelled all the way to Bradford.
0:13:15 > 0:13:17And then brought over my grandmother.
0:13:17 > 0:13:23And then had all his kids in the UK and a generation later, here I am.
0:13:26 > 0:13:31A British born Indian exploring the country of my...forefathers.
0:13:38 > 0:13:42It's often said that the railways are the lifelines of India.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45And travelling on this train has convinced me
0:13:45 > 0:13:49just how essential they are to the whole population and the economy.
0:13:57 > 0:14:03In Mumbai, it's early afternoon. A busy time for departures at CST.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07Long-distance trains arrive into the platforms around
0:14:07 > 0:14:0930 minutes before they are due to depart.
0:14:11 > 0:14:16This one is sitting at platform 14, getting ready to go.
0:14:16 > 0:14:20Robert and I are going to show you what happens on the platform and
0:14:20 > 0:14:24in the station control room in the final moments before a departure.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29Now, this train is the two o'clock departure to Chennai.
0:14:29 > 0:14:34The city used to be called Madras. Right on the other side of the country, on the east coast of India.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37These people are going to be crossing the country in just a few minutes' time.
0:14:37 > 0:14:41This is the rolling stock, these carriages here. Looking a little bit long in the tooth,
0:14:41 > 0:14:45they've done some hard yards, but you can actually gauge precisely how old they are...
0:14:45 > 0:14:50Come and have a look. If you're a geek like me, you can have a look at some of the clues on the outside.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54These digits here - 98 shows it was built in 1998.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58406 shows it was 406th carriage built in 1998,
0:14:58 > 0:15:01so each carriage has got its own precise individual ID.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04Now this is the unreserved carriage here.
0:15:04 > 0:15:07These people got here nice and early. They're the lucky ones.
0:15:07 > 0:15:12They're well organised. They've managed to get a seat, so they'll be guarding those seats very carefully.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14Latecomers will be piling on to this train just before it takes off
0:15:14 > 0:15:18and they're in for a potentially quite uncomfortable journey.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21And for everyone, it is going to be a long journey.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25But that journey won't start until the control room
0:15:25 > 0:15:28and the controllers give it permission to go.
0:15:28 > 0:15:32This is mission control for the entire station
0:15:32 > 0:15:35and we can actually see Dan's train there on platform 14.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38That red mark there signifies the train.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41The circuits underneath that are sending a signal up here to the control room,
0:15:41 > 0:15:44where they're displayed on this vast control room board here
0:15:44 > 0:15:47and actually, you can see trains moving along these tracks here.
0:15:47 > 0:15:52For instance, that is a train, going along this track here, and it's got a safe route cos it's green.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56When it's green in front of it, that means that the route is open, it doesn't have to stop.
0:15:56 > 0:15:58And that's what will happen to Dan's train in a moment.
0:15:58 > 0:16:02It will have its route defined and it will head off and leave the
0:16:02 > 0:16:06station, and as it's coming up to two o'clock, it's about time to set off.
0:16:07 > 0:16:12TRAIN HORN SOUNDS
0:16:12 > 0:16:17There it goes now. About one minute past two o'clock, pretty impressive.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19Now, I can see that the train has set off
0:16:19 > 0:16:22because the red block is now moving along the track.
0:16:22 > 0:16:24The train is off and on its way.
0:16:24 > 0:16:29A few latecomers jumping on board, just as it takes off very slowly.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33No need to hurry, I suppose. They've got 1,200km to go.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35A long journey.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43Trains like this are more than half a kilometre long
0:16:43 > 0:16:47and take five minutes to clear the station.
0:16:47 > 0:16:51The control room staff will monitor them for the next 53km,
0:16:51 > 0:16:54when they leave CST's control zone.
0:16:56 > 0:17:01The controllers are among 3,500 employees here at the station.
0:17:01 > 0:17:04Most of these people are invisible to passengers.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07The majority are employed in essential
0:17:07 > 0:17:10but unglamorous support roles, ensuring that each train is
0:17:10 > 0:17:13restocked and ready for its next journey.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16Dan's getting his hands dirty with one of those groups,
0:17:16 > 0:17:19the train cleaning team.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22This train is just finishing a very long journey,
0:17:22 > 0:17:25over 1,500km from Varanasi.
0:17:25 > 0:17:29And that means there is a lot of dirty laundry on board.
0:17:29 > 0:17:31It's going in here.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48Stripping sheets, pillows,
0:17:48 > 0:17:53and blankets from 178 beds needs all hands on deck.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56Loads of these guys, they all pile on to the train as soon as it
0:17:56 > 0:18:00arrives, desperately getting all the dirty linen off.
0:18:00 > 0:18:03We're in a bit of a hurry cos apparently we've got three or
0:18:03 > 0:18:06four minutes and the train's going to go.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11Preparing sleeper trains is a super-sized operation.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13First, the used laundry is taken to be sorted,
0:18:13 > 0:18:16before it leaves the station.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19Every item is passed through an electronic sensor.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23The reason they do this apparently is cos they count it going on
0:18:23 > 0:18:27and the train manager is responsible for it and they count it all
0:18:27 > 0:18:31coming off and if there's anything missing, he gets his pay docked.
0:18:33 > 0:18:36Then it all gets taken to one of India's
0:18:36 > 0:18:38biggest mechanised laundries.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41Manager Amal Deshpanda is in charge.
0:18:41 > 0:18:45This is a big pile of dirty laundry. How much comes in here every day?
0:18:45 > 0:18:47Every day, around 25,000 bed sheets.
0:18:47 > 0:18:51- And it's sheets, towels, pillow cases, everything.- Yeah, everything.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53- 25,000.- 25,000.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58This is washing on an industrial scale.
0:18:58 > 0:19:03Hard to believe, until eight years ago, all this was done by hand.
0:19:03 > 0:19:09Then, it took four days to process all the bedding from one train.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11Now, it takes just four hours.
0:19:11 > 0:19:15- This is the clean bed sheets. - Yeah.- These are partially wet.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18After ironing, they get completely dried.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21So before they go in the ironing machine, they have to be spread out.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25Spread out and to have a look on the quality also.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28OK, and those ones there have failed quality control.
0:19:28 > 0:19:30- They failed the quality control. - They're going back through.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33They will go back and washed specially.
0:19:33 > 0:19:37If the marks won't come out, the sheets are thrown away.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41What's the hardest thing to get out of these sheets?
0:19:41 > 0:19:45The stains of their lunches.
0:19:45 > 0:19:50- At times, there are stain marks of blood.- Blood?- Yeah.
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- At times, grease and at times, shoe polish also.- OK.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00Dirty laundry used to be one of the biggest complaints from passengers,
0:20:00 > 0:20:03but since this mega laundry opened,
0:20:03 > 0:20:06they've dropped by 77%.
0:20:06 > 0:20:07That's got to go!
0:20:07 > 0:20:11At best, each bed sheet will last a year and go through 60 washes.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14Feels good when you get a pearly white... Look at that one, you see.
0:20:14 > 0:20:16Perfect.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20At the end of the process, they've been cleaned, they've been
0:20:20 > 0:20:24dried, they've been quality checked, they've been folded and pressed.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26They've even been stacked.
0:20:26 > 0:20:27Ready to be sent back to CST.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37This load will be back on board tonight.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40As well as guaranteed clean sheets,
0:20:40 > 0:20:42passengers also need feeding.
0:20:46 > 0:20:50Each train used to have its own kitchen.
0:20:50 > 0:20:54But fires were a persistent hazard so they're being phased out.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58Instead, CST has opened its own giant kitchen to supply
0:20:58 > 0:21:00hot food for passengers.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04Manager Kushal Rawat is busy portioning out
0:21:04 > 0:21:07the first 500 servings of dhal.
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- Hello.- How are you doing?- I am fine.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12You're in the middle of it here, aren't you?
0:21:12 > 0:21:15Is all your food here vegetarian or is there meat as well?
0:21:15 > 0:21:17Meat as well. Vegetarian, non-vegetarian.
0:21:22 > 0:21:26The chefs use 70 kilos of chicken, 35 kilos of rice
0:21:26 > 0:21:29and 40 kilos of onions every day.
0:21:29 > 0:21:34And they're only cooking for one train service at the moment.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38The ambition is to scale it up and cook for every long-distance train.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42How many dishes do you have to prepare every day?
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- 4,000.- 4,000.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- Oh, my goodness!- And it takes around two hours to cook.
0:21:49 > 0:21:51- Two hours to cook this?- Yes.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53It's a very well-oiled machine, this.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56The lids are coming on, people are packing it up,
0:21:56 > 0:21:59ready to ship it over to the train. It's impressive.
0:22:01 > 0:22:02All the meals must be ready
0:22:02 > 0:22:05and on board the train 30 minutes before departure.
0:22:05 > 0:22:10Next stop, the linen, which has been laundered and is in the linen room.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17Nothing automated about this part of the job.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20It's all down to donkey work. And you've got to be fit.
0:22:24 > 0:22:26OK, train's coming. We've been told to go quicker.
0:22:32 > 0:22:34OK, here's good, here's good.
0:22:34 > 0:22:36OK.
0:22:36 > 0:22:37That's got a mind of its own.
0:22:41 > 0:22:441,000 meals and supplies of fresh bedding are heaved on board,
0:22:44 > 0:22:49as the seat allocations go up and passengers climb in.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00So exciting to think that train is now starting a journey that's
0:23:00 > 0:23:03going to take them right across India.
0:23:03 > 0:23:07The main thing is they're going to have clean linen and full bellies.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09What more do you need?
0:23:12 > 0:23:16These long-distance trains are workhorses,
0:23:16 > 0:23:18designed to get as many people as possible on board.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24But when this station opened, back in 1887,
0:23:24 > 0:23:27first class travel was a more luxurious experience.
0:23:30 > 0:23:34And today, there are some trains, run especially for tourists,
0:23:34 > 0:23:37that hark back to that glamorous age.
0:23:37 > 0:23:39Anita's having a look round one of them.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43Welcome to the Deccan Odyssey.
0:23:43 > 0:23:46This is high-end train travel, Indian style.
0:23:46 > 0:23:4921 carriages of absolute luxury.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52Now, they say you can spend as much or as little as you
0:23:52 > 0:23:55like in this country. Well, this is definitely the "much" end.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58I'm in the presidential suite and this will set you
0:23:58 > 0:24:03back £600 per person per night, but what do you get for your money?
0:24:03 > 0:24:06Fantastic double bed. Very nicely air conditioned room.
0:24:06 > 0:24:09In here, you've got a desk, you have a television,
0:24:09 > 0:24:12and then through the corridor, you get one of two bathrooms.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14If you have a look in there,
0:24:14 > 0:24:17everything you would expect from a five-star hotel cos that's
0:24:17 > 0:24:21what this is, this is five star on train tracks.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24And then in here, once you've been outside
0:24:24 > 0:24:26and you want to retreat from the chaos,
0:24:26 > 0:24:29the mayhem and the magnificence of India out there, you can
0:24:29 > 0:24:33come back to your very own lounge and live like a maharajah would.
0:24:33 > 0:24:34And this is my favourite bit.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37You've got your very own leather bound notebook where you can
0:24:37 > 0:24:41write your memoirs whilst looking out across a beautiful sunset.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43But what else does this train have to offer?
0:24:47 > 0:24:49This carriage is the all-important bar.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52There's also a spa, a gym,
0:24:52 > 0:24:55a salon to get your hair done before dinner, two kitchens,
0:24:55 > 0:24:58one for Western food, freshly baked bread, the other for Indian food.
0:24:58 > 0:25:03And you getting cuisine matching the state that you're travelling through.
0:25:03 > 0:25:06Two restaurant carriages, with beautiful fine dining crockery
0:25:06 > 0:25:10and plates and whatnot, of which is this is one and this is Prem Devassy,
0:25:10 > 0:25:14- the general manager. Pleased to meet you, sir.- Hello. Welcome aboard.- Thank you very much.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16I'm sure I wouldn't normally find you
0:25:16 > 0:25:18- lounging around in the restaurant carriage.- Not really.
0:25:18 > 0:25:21A hotel, a hotel on wheels, so mostly on my skates,
0:25:21 > 0:25:24rolling all over the place, making sure everything's all right.
0:25:24 > 0:25:29- How many passengers are you normally running around after?- 80 guests.
0:25:29 > 0:25:32- And how many staff for your 80 guests?- 44.- Wow.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36So, that's very different to the 1,600 found on a normal
0:25:36 > 0:25:38- long-distance train in India. - Slightly different.
0:25:38 > 0:25:41COMPLETELY different! And where do people go on this train?
0:25:41 > 0:25:43- Where are you taking them? - Well, we have an itinerary.
0:25:43 > 0:25:46A seven day itinerary, right from Goa to the western part of
0:25:46 > 0:25:51India to the palaces of Rajasthan, to the jungle, to the Taj Mahal.
0:25:51 > 0:25:56So, people are getting a REAL sense of India in the most luxurious way.
0:25:56 > 0:25:59- Absolutely, mm.- And where are your tourists coming from?
0:25:59 > 0:26:04A lot of Brits, Europeans, Australians, Americans, Russians
0:26:04 > 0:26:07- and Indians, of course. - And who spends the most money?
0:26:07 > 0:26:10The Russians.
0:26:10 > 0:26:14- Any strange requests?- Where do we start? With the strange requests...
0:26:14 > 0:26:16Food and beverage requests, grapefruit
0:26:16 > 0:26:21when it's not in season, a vintage wine, a swimming pool onboard,
0:26:21 > 0:26:25a tiger, "Make sure we see a tiger in the jungle."
0:26:25 > 0:26:26And did you make the tiger happen?
0:26:26 > 0:26:28This particular time, yes, I was lucky.
0:26:28 > 0:26:30I was fortunate that they did.
0:26:30 > 0:26:33You should just keep one onboard, that you could just wheel out...
0:26:33 > 0:26:36- That's a good idea, like a softie. - So, you can make most things happen?
0:26:36 > 0:26:39- Absolutely.- My only request would be Wi-Fi?- Yes, indeed.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42And I spend a lot of time on the trains in the UK.
0:26:42 > 0:26:46- Could I make a sustained phone call on your train?- You absolutely will.
0:26:46 > 0:26:49Prem, that is music to my ears. Well, absolute pleasure to meet you, sir.
0:26:49 > 0:26:51- Thank you very much!- Welcome aboard!
0:26:54 > 0:26:57'This kind of luxury travel is unimaginable for the passengers
0:26:57 > 0:27:01'spread out on the concourse here at CST this afternoon.'
0:27:01 > 0:27:03Well, these people are waiting for their trains.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06And they might have a bit of an adventure ahead of them
0:27:06 > 0:27:07before they get to their destinations.
0:27:07 > 0:27:10But they can be certain of one thing, that their train will have been
0:27:10 > 0:27:15through a comprehensive set of tests to make sure it's safe to travel.
0:27:17 > 0:27:20BIRDS SQUAWK
0:27:23 > 0:27:26'This is Wadi-Bunder, an enormous maintenance site,
0:27:26 > 0:27:31'with four train pits, where the carriages from long-distance trains are checked over.
0:27:31 > 0:27:37'Trains can be made up of 24 carriages, so each pit is more than 500 metres long.'
0:27:39 > 0:27:44These trains are so long. It's absolutely extraordinary.
0:27:45 > 0:27:49And as it pulls in, the clock starts ticking.
0:27:49 > 0:27:53Staff have just six hours before this train has to be returned to service.
0:27:53 > 0:27:57That might sound generous but with half a kilometre of carriages
0:27:57 > 0:27:59to check, there is no time to waste.
0:27:59 > 0:28:02They come in here mainly to be safety checked,
0:28:02 > 0:28:04to make sure all the running gear and the brakes are safe
0:28:04 > 0:28:07and then to have a bit of clean-up.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12As soon as the train comes to a halt...
0:28:13 > 0:28:17..a team of the depot's 270 workers springs into action.
0:28:18 > 0:28:22While one group tackle cleaning, inside and out,
0:28:22 > 0:28:25another are at work underneath, performing safety checks.
0:28:28 > 0:28:32Senior section engineer, Anto John, is talking me
0:28:32 > 0:28:35through the most important of all these inspections.
0:28:35 > 0:28:38So, what goes on here, Mr John? This is very exciting.
0:28:38 > 0:28:41Here, we do the air brake testing.
0:28:41 > 0:28:43Ah, so this whole train is stopped by air brakes.
0:28:43 > 0:28:48- Yeah, the air pressure is connected to the train from one end to the other end.- Right.
0:28:48 > 0:28:51So, here we check the effectiveness of the brakes in each
0:28:51 > 0:28:54- and every coach. - How does that actually work?
0:28:54 > 0:28:56- We charge the system with the air pressure.- Yeah.
0:28:56 > 0:28:59- And when we REDUCE the pressure, the brakes are applied.- Ah, right!
0:28:59 > 0:29:04- And when we restore the pressure to the original... - It pushes the brakes off.- Yes.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07- Right, so, if there is a failure, the brakes will automatically come on.- Yeah.
0:29:07 > 0:29:11- So, can we see them going on and off? Is it possible to...?- Yeah.
0:29:12 > 0:29:16RADIO: Mr Pandar, apply the brakes, please.
0:29:17 > 0:29:19AIR PRESSURE HISSES
0:29:19 > 0:29:22- Oh, wow! So, straight away they're on.- Yeah.
0:29:22 > 0:29:25And what he's done then is release the pressure in the system.
0:29:25 > 0:29:29- Yes, he has reduced the pressure... - Yeah.- And the brakes are applied. - Right.
0:29:29 > 0:29:32Likewise, we will check each and every coach.
0:29:32 > 0:29:35Right, so these breaks are on every wheel in all the carriages?
0:29:35 > 0:29:37To ensure the effectiveness of the breaking.
0:29:37 > 0:29:40- Cos it's a lot of wheels! - Yeah, yeah.- On a train this big.
0:29:40 > 0:29:43We have to check through the 24 coaches, into four...
0:29:43 > 0:29:46- Right, yes, I can't do the maths but it's a lot of wheels. - THEY LAUGH
0:29:48 > 0:29:51'It's not just the braking mechanism that needs checking on every wheel...
0:29:51 > 0:29:54AIR PRESSURE HISSES
0:29:54 > 0:29:56'..but the brake pads themselves.
0:29:56 > 0:29:58'If a brake pad is too thin,
0:29:58 > 0:30:02'the metal of the brake shoe rubs against the metal of the wheel.'
0:30:03 > 0:30:06So, these guys are replacing a brake pad here,
0:30:06 > 0:30:11which is, I can see, quite badly worn. Right, that's the old one.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14Kind of obvious, if it's worn down, you want really good brakes on
0:30:14 > 0:30:18a train that's got thousands of people on it, you know, just to keep it safe.
0:30:22 > 0:30:27The structural integrity of every carriage is also thoroughly inspected -
0:30:27 > 0:30:31using a rather basic method.
0:30:31 > 0:30:32This is amazing.
0:30:32 > 0:30:35So, this guy's working his way all the way along the train,
0:30:35 > 0:30:38tapping things. If it makes a good ringing sound, that means it's OK.
0:30:38 > 0:30:40It's no problem.
0:30:41 > 0:30:45All OK? Very good. Everything OK so far.
0:30:50 > 0:30:52I think it's fair to say that working conditions
0:30:52 > 0:30:54here are fairly challenging.
0:30:55 > 0:30:59Now, I've just noticed a very strong increase in the general odour
0:30:59 > 0:31:02down here under the trains and that's because the cleaners upstairs
0:31:02 > 0:31:06have been pressure washing the toilets and that flushes straight down this tube
0:31:06 > 0:31:10and onto the track, which means it's got a little bit fruity around here.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14Unlike most UK trains, everything that we release in the toilet
0:31:14 > 0:31:16comes straight down this tube.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23'If a carriage has a serious problem or is too badly damaged
0:31:23 > 0:31:28'to be repaired within the six hours, it will be pulled out of service and replaced.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31'It is then known as a "sick carriage".'
0:31:32 > 0:31:35A replacement comes from a nearby yard,
0:31:35 > 0:31:38where there are 15 coaches ready to come into service.
0:31:39 > 0:31:43Just think what a pain it would be if this was a sick carriage.
0:31:43 > 0:31:44What an absolute nightmare,
0:31:44 > 0:31:47because what you've got to do then is uncouple that part there,
0:31:47 > 0:31:50drag all those carriages miles away, out the way,
0:31:50 > 0:31:53then you've got to come back, uncouple this carriage,
0:31:53 > 0:31:55drag that out the way, then bring in a new carriage, couple it up,
0:31:55 > 0:31:59then bring ALL those carriages back, join it all together again...
0:31:59 > 0:32:01And you've got to do all this in under six hours!
0:32:05 > 0:32:08'To avoid needing to replace a carriage,
0:32:08 > 0:32:12'any repairs that can be done in situ are done immediately.'
0:32:12 > 0:32:14Looks like the door's been vandalised.
0:32:14 > 0:32:15They're just fixing it.
0:32:17 > 0:32:20'Carriages can be up to 25 years old,
0:32:20 > 0:32:22'meaning repairs like these are commonplace.
0:32:25 > 0:32:29'As the clock ticks down, running repairs are completed.
0:32:29 > 0:32:32'And the exterior gets a final wash and brush up.'
0:32:43 > 0:32:46I've been asking why they still wash the trains by hand,
0:32:46 > 0:32:48and apparently they can do a more thorough job,
0:32:48 > 0:32:50getting in all the little nooks and crannies,
0:32:50 > 0:32:52because these trains get really filthy
0:32:52 > 0:32:54on incredibly long journeys.
0:32:55 > 0:32:59Time's up and the inspector's on-board to check the work.
0:33:02 > 0:33:07The train is ready to be returned to service at the station.
0:33:07 > 0:33:10That's it. The train's recoupled to a locomotive.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12All the carriages have been inspected,
0:33:12 > 0:33:13they've been signed off,
0:33:13 > 0:33:16they're safe, ready for the next journey.
0:33:16 > 0:33:18- TRAIN HORN BLASTS - There we go.
0:33:30 > 0:33:34Everything here at CST in Mumbai is on a huge scale,
0:33:34 > 0:33:37including the ticketing operation.
0:33:37 > 0:33:41They sell 7,000 tickets a day across 30 counters.
0:33:41 > 0:33:44And with demand outstripping supply,
0:33:44 > 0:33:46managing customers can be a tricky business.
0:33:55 > 0:33:57I'm in a long-distance ticketing office
0:33:57 > 0:34:02with a very important lady - the Chief Reservation Supervisor.
0:34:02 > 0:34:06What is the system for getting a ticket?
0:34:06 > 0:34:09You can book your tickets 120 days prior.
0:34:09 > 0:34:12And it can be done online, as well as on the counters.
0:34:12 > 0:34:17So the tickets are released 120 days before the train departs
0:34:17 > 0:34:20and people can book online or come and get the tickets from here.
0:34:20 > 0:34:22And how quickly do those tickets sell out?
0:34:22 > 0:34:24As fast as 18 seconds.
0:34:24 > 0:34:2718 seconds! That's faster than Glastonbury tickets.
0:34:27 > 0:34:30Why are they so popular?
0:34:30 > 0:34:32Because the demand is more,
0:34:32 > 0:34:35as well as this is the cheapest mode of transport today in India.
0:34:35 > 0:34:39So you must be hugely oversubscribed if they're selling out that fast.
0:34:39 > 0:34:42Yeah, sometimes when the confirmed tickets get exhausted,
0:34:42 > 0:34:44we try to give them a waiting list ticket
0:34:44 > 0:34:46in the hope that they get confirmed.
0:34:46 > 0:34:48How long are those waiting lists?
0:34:48 > 0:34:52- The waiting list is as far as 400 to 500.- 400 people?!
0:34:52 > 0:34:56What is the hope of ticket waiting list number 355
0:34:56 > 0:34:57getting on the train?
0:34:57 > 0:35:00Yeah, sometimes we do add an extra carriage to clear the rush.
0:35:00 > 0:35:02- You can do that?- Yes.
0:35:02 > 0:35:04And that's been done in the past?
0:35:04 > 0:35:07But what if you have an emergency and you need to get a ticket
0:35:07 > 0:35:10like that, because you have to get somewhere? Is that possible?
0:35:10 > 0:35:13Yes, it's possible. You can book the ticket one day before,
0:35:13 > 0:35:15it's called the Tatkal Saver.
0:35:15 > 0:35:17Tatkal Saver, what does that mean?
0:35:17 > 0:35:20That is an emergency ticket, it can be booked one day before in advance
0:35:20 > 0:35:23in the morning at ten o'clock with an identification card, that's all.
0:35:23 > 0:35:26And is that what we're seeing behind us? Some of these chaps here
0:35:26 > 0:35:28will be here getting their last-minute tickets?
0:35:28 > 0:35:32And does everybody need to have a seat and a ticket on the train?
0:35:32 > 0:35:36Yes, for a reserved compartment, you need a reserved ticket.
0:35:36 > 0:35:40And what about the unreserved compartment? Talk to me about that.
0:35:40 > 0:35:43Unreserved, yes, people do travel in unreserved compartment
0:35:43 > 0:35:46with an unreserved ticket. It's for the people who are travelling
0:35:46 > 0:35:48at the last minute who don't get a reservation,
0:35:48 > 0:35:52they just have to manage for themselves. There's no seat, no but.
0:35:52 > 0:35:55Does everybody get on to the unreserved compartment?
0:35:55 > 0:35:56Yes, most of the time, they do get.
0:35:56 > 0:35:58They just have to manage for themselves.
0:35:58 > 0:36:01Yes, if you've got to get somewhere, you've got to get on that train.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03I've experienced it myself when I did the overnight,
0:36:03 > 0:36:04unreserved was crowds.
0:36:04 > 0:36:07There were people just jammed in anywhere they could get in.
0:36:07 > 0:36:10Women with babies and suitcases, but it felt very cooperative.
0:36:10 > 0:36:13It's like people knew that this train is going a long way,
0:36:13 > 0:36:15so we must help everybody get on.
0:36:15 > 0:36:20- It happens like that.- What if...
0:36:20 > 0:36:22And it could happen, if you're a tourist,
0:36:22 > 0:36:24you turn up or you're a backpacker
0:36:24 > 0:36:27and you want your long distance train journey in India experience.
0:36:27 > 0:36:29How would I get a ticket?
0:36:29 > 0:36:32My country is taking care of the foreign tourists very well.
0:36:32 > 0:36:36We have a separate counter to Mumbai Viti and Mumbai Central,
0:36:36 > 0:36:39for the tourists just, where we have confirmed tickets
0:36:39 > 0:36:43for the foreigners. Even if the train is running a waiting list,
0:36:43 > 0:36:44we give them a confirmed ticket.
0:36:44 > 0:36:48- So are foreigners given priority over Indians?- They are given...
0:36:48 > 0:36:50There are some procedures for the tourists.
0:36:50 > 0:36:52I mean, how many seats are reserved for the tourists?
0:36:52 > 0:36:55It depends upon the demand of the train.
0:36:55 > 0:36:58It depends upon the destination, like, if it's a Goa-bound train,
0:36:58 > 0:37:00then there are more seats available.
0:37:00 > 0:37:02And that's just the facts, people come to India to go to Goa.
0:37:02 > 0:37:04So let's talk about the price, then.
0:37:04 > 0:37:07If I did want to go from Mumbai to Goa, how much would it cost in
0:37:07 > 0:37:11first-class air-conditioned and how much would it cost in unreserved?
0:37:11 > 0:37:14First-AC will cost you something around 2,600 rupees
0:37:14 > 0:37:17and the unreserved something around 210 rupees.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21It's a huge difference, so about £26 in first-class AC
0:37:21 > 0:37:23and £2.10 in unreserved.
0:37:23 > 0:37:26So it just depends what experience you want on the train.
0:37:26 > 0:37:29- Manisha, thank you very much. - You're welcome.
0:37:30 > 0:37:3513 million people travel across this country every day on the railways.
0:37:35 > 0:37:40But passengers are just one of the things onboard most trains.
0:37:40 > 0:37:45Three million tonnes of freight are moved by rail every day in India.
0:37:45 > 0:37:47Of course, most of that is transported
0:37:47 > 0:37:50by dedicated freight trains.
0:37:50 > 0:37:52But long-distance trains, like this one,
0:37:52 > 0:37:54also have compartments for moving goods in.
0:37:54 > 0:37:56And this is an invaluable service
0:37:56 > 0:37:59for all the small businesses in Mumbai.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08This place is India's economic capital.
0:38:08 > 0:38:12It contributes more to the country's wealth than any other city.
0:38:12 > 0:38:16Much of that cash comes from thousands of small businesses,
0:38:16 > 0:38:21selling everything from fish to flowers to jewellery.
0:38:21 > 0:38:24Tight margins and tight delivery deadlines mean that,
0:38:24 > 0:38:26for most of these businesses,
0:38:26 > 0:38:31the only way to get their goods to their customers is by rail.
0:38:31 > 0:38:34Here's how it works for one of those businessmen.
0:38:35 > 0:38:39I'm Nisarg Chheda. I'm working in Rangeela Brothers.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42We are wholesalers of fashion jewellery.
0:38:42 > 0:38:45Those are the earrings. Stone earrings.
0:38:46 > 0:38:50The customer looking for all the pieces over there...
0:38:50 > 0:38:53When she finalises it, then we'll make a bill
0:38:53 > 0:38:56and cart it to the final shipment.
0:38:56 > 0:38:58This is the bill of the customer.
0:38:58 > 0:39:01In this, from number 37 till number 42,
0:39:01 > 0:39:04all of these pieces are in this box.
0:39:04 > 0:39:08We get customers from all over India and all over the world.
0:39:08 > 0:39:09Since past six to seven months,
0:39:09 > 0:39:12online business has come in and we are just trying to
0:39:12 > 0:39:16go in the online part also and keep on track with our customers.
0:39:20 > 0:39:24In India, all types of business uses the railways.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27Only 90% of the goods are parcelled from the railways,
0:39:27 > 0:39:31like maybe fashion jewellery, maybe for watches,
0:39:31 > 0:39:35maybe for textiles, dresses... Each and everything.
0:39:35 > 0:39:38All these are final cartons, packed cartons.
0:39:38 > 0:39:41And then Monday, our labourer will come and collect it.
0:39:43 > 0:39:48We ship out around 15 to 20 parcels in a day.
0:39:48 > 0:39:50That might exceed to 40 or 50 parcels a day.
0:39:50 > 0:39:53MAN YELLS
0:39:53 > 0:39:55We have six to seven labourers that work only for us,
0:39:55 > 0:39:57for our three companies.
0:39:57 > 0:40:00This is for the parcels to get collected from the shop.
0:40:00 > 0:40:03They carry 15 or 20 parcels on their trolley.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08There are many trains going in all the cities,
0:40:08 > 0:40:11railways go in each and every corner of India.
0:40:11 > 0:40:14We use it on a massive scale just because it is quick
0:40:14 > 0:40:18and it is safe also than other transports,
0:40:18 > 0:40:22because by air, it is too costly and by roadway, it is too slow.
0:40:25 > 0:40:28There are four to five trains in a day that goes to Delhi,
0:40:28 > 0:40:31so if another customer from Delhi says,
0:40:31 > 0:40:34"I wanted parcel right now," we can ship it in the evening also.
0:40:41 > 0:40:47The train has roughly around seven to eight bogies of goods only.
0:40:49 > 0:40:53So roughly around 70 to 80 cartons can be packed in one bogey,
0:40:53 > 0:40:57so that brings around 400, 500 parcels a day in one train.
0:40:59 > 0:41:03Railways are very important because if the railways don't work
0:41:03 > 0:41:05for one day, my business will be shut for that entire day.
0:41:08 > 0:41:11TRAIN HORN BLOWS
0:41:14 > 0:41:16This is the goods sorting area at CST.
0:41:16 > 0:41:20Packages come in here from all over the city, ready to be shipped out.
0:41:20 > 0:41:24Now, there are 60 porters who work here 24 hours a day,
0:41:24 > 0:41:26shifting all these bags, sorting them out,
0:41:26 > 0:41:28making sure they get to their right destination.
0:41:28 > 0:41:31As you can see, they're fairly big, most of these packages.
0:41:31 > 0:41:34And you may have noticed, there's no forklift trucks around.
0:41:34 > 0:41:36All of this movement is done manually.
0:41:36 > 0:41:39And when you see the size and the weight of these packages,
0:41:39 > 0:41:41it's quite extraordinary that's how they work.
0:41:41 > 0:41:43Now, all of them, as you can see, not all of them
0:41:43 > 0:41:46but a lot of them, are sewn into the same wrapping material.
0:41:46 > 0:41:48They are hand-sewn into this material.
0:41:48 > 0:41:52And that is mainly to anonymise them, so that, say, this bag here
0:41:52 > 0:41:54could be 10,000 pairs of socks
0:41:54 > 0:41:57and this package here could be expensive jewellery,
0:41:57 > 0:42:00but nobody knows the difference and that reduces pilfering.
0:42:00 > 0:42:02Of course, it's not just packages like this,
0:42:02 > 0:42:05all kinds of things get shipped around the country.
0:42:05 > 0:42:09Goats - not this dog, he just lives here -
0:42:09 > 0:42:12there's a chair over there, fridges, motorbikes, all sorts of things.
0:42:12 > 0:42:15And every now and then you can really tell what is in the packages
0:42:15 > 0:42:17even though it doesn't necessarily say on the outside.
0:42:17 > 0:42:20For instance, I'm very confident that in these packages
0:42:20 > 0:42:22there's a large amount of fish.
0:42:22 > 0:42:25That is basically information that's going in through my nose.
0:42:25 > 0:42:27That is quite an intense smell there.
0:42:27 > 0:42:29And, of course, this is perishable products,
0:42:29 > 0:42:32this needs to be shipped out as quickly as possible.
0:42:32 > 0:42:34You don't really want to open a package with week-old fish
0:42:34 > 0:42:37just as you don't want to open a package with week-old newspapers.
0:42:37 > 0:42:39So, they have to get them there on time.
0:42:39 > 0:42:45Now, to send a package like this it costs about £2 for 30kg.
0:42:45 > 0:42:48That's fairly cheap and it's a vital part of Mumbai business.
0:42:48 > 0:42:50If you want to send it by air,
0:42:50 > 0:42:53the same package would cost you ten times more than that.
0:42:54 > 0:42:59Rail is a cheap and efficient way to send goods around this vast country.
0:42:59 > 0:43:03Although most of India's freight doesn't travel on passenger trains like these.
0:43:04 > 0:43:07But enormous dedicated freight trains.
0:43:08 > 0:43:13Rail freight brings in £12 billion each year for the Indian government.
0:43:15 > 0:43:18There's no question that freight makes a huge contribution to Indian Railways.
0:43:18 > 0:43:21I'm lucky enough to be joined now by Mr Nigam
0:43:21 > 0:43:23who is the divisional railway manager here.
0:43:23 > 0:43:27He used to run this station until early 2015. Thanks for joining us.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29Just how important is freight for Indian Railways?
0:43:29 > 0:43:32Freight contributes for 70% of our revenues.
0:43:32 > 0:43:34So freight is extremely important.
0:43:34 > 0:43:37We run about 18,000 trains every day,
0:43:37 > 0:43:40out of which about 12,500 are passenger carrying trains
0:43:40 > 0:43:42and 6,000 trains are running
0:43:42 > 0:43:46and using the same infrastructure as that of the passenger trains.
0:43:46 > 0:43:49- Does that help to subsidise the passenger travel?- It does.
0:43:49 > 0:43:54In fact, as 70% of revenues are coming from freight traffic,
0:43:54 > 0:43:55these revenues are...
0:43:55 > 0:43:59subsidising the losses that we are making in the passenger traffic.
0:43:59 > 0:44:03The importance of freight on Indian Railways is immense.
0:44:03 > 0:44:07And what are the main things that these freight trains are carrying?
0:44:07 > 0:44:10Predominately it carries coal and...
0:44:10 > 0:44:14other commodities like, I don't know, iron and steel.
0:44:14 > 0:44:16We are also carrying fertilisers.
0:44:16 > 0:44:18I mean, it shows, interestingly, cos, of course,
0:44:18 > 0:44:22the history of the Indian Railways was exploiting the interior,
0:44:22 > 0:44:26bringing those goods out from the heart of India to the coastal ports.
0:44:26 > 0:44:29- And Indian Railways are still doing that job today.- You are very right.
0:44:29 > 0:44:32In fact, most of our power generation
0:44:32 > 0:44:34is coal-based or thermal-based
0:44:34 > 0:44:40and coal is produced in the east whereas most of our thermal plants,
0:44:40 > 0:44:43thermal power plants, are located in the north and the east.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47So for the generation of electricity, the role of Indian Railways
0:44:47 > 0:44:50and the freight traffic in particular is extremely important.
0:44:50 > 0:44:53So your trains are literally keeping the lights on,
0:44:53 > 0:44:57- they're powering this economic miracle that's going on in India?- Yes.
0:44:57 > 0:44:59Thank you very much, Mr Nigam. Fascinating stuff.
0:44:59 > 0:45:01Now, no trains, passenger or freight,
0:45:01 > 0:45:04are going anywhere without a very important group of people -
0:45:04 > 0:45:05the drivers.
0:45:05 > 0:45:09In fact, they're so important that their salary is about seven times
0:45:09 > 0:45:11the average salary here in Mumbai.
0:45:15 > 0:45:21430km north-east of Mumbai is the Bhusawal Railway Training Institute.
0:45:26 > 0:45:29This is one of nine schools spread across the country
0:45:29 > 0:45:31where students learn to pilot trains.
0:45:35 > 0:45:38The 1,200 students learn about locomotion controls
0:45:38 > 0:45:39and signalling systems.
0:45:41 > 0:45:42HORN BLARES
0:45:46 > 0:45:49As well as the practical mechanics of locomotives.
0:45:49 > 0:45:51HE SPEAKS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE
0:45:54 > 0:45:57Entry requirements are A-level equivalent
0:45:57 > 0:46:01and it takes a minimum of 12 years of classroom lessons
0:46:01 > 0:46:04and on-the-job experience before freshers students
0:46:04 > 0:46:07can pilot a passenger train on their own.
0:46:09 > 0:46:11But once they are fully qualified,
0:46:11 > 0:46:14they can look forward to a salary of around £7,000.
0:46:18 > 0:46:21I'm being given some accelerated private lessons.
0:46:21 > 0:46:23First, it's signalling.
0:46:24 > 0:46:27School principal Mr Krishnan is guiding me through
0:46:27 > 0:46:31the basics on this rather fantastic model.
0:46:31 > 0:46:35This is an accurate representation of the trains in Mumbai?
0:46:35 > 0:46:38This is a miniature version of the EMU trains that run in Mumbai.
0:46:42 > 0:46:46Responding correctly to signals is essential for loco drivers
0:46:46 > 0:46:49because the stopping distances of trains are enormous.
0:46:51 > 0:46:56To bring a 1,500 tonne long-distance passenger train
0:46:56 > 0:46:58to a stop can take over 1km.
0:47:00 > 0:47:03The signals are just like traffic lights on roads.
0:47:04 > 0:47:06Green means go,
0:47:06 > 0:47:08red means stop
0:47:08 > 0:47:10and yellow slow down.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16All simple enough but I'm also expected to understand
0:47:16 > 0:47:19the theory behind signal control -
0:47:19 > 0:47:21automatic block system.
0:47:22 > 0:47:26The normal aspect of the signal is green.
0:47:26 > 0:47:31As the train approaches the signal the driver knows that he has
0:47:31 > 0:47:34to pass with the normal speed.
0:47:34 > 0:47:40As he passes the signal, the aspect of the signal return to red
0:47:40 > 0:47:44and will not allow the subsequent train
0:47:44 > 0:47:46to enter this signalling section.
0:47:46 > 0:47:49Right, so then if I was coming in the train behind that one,
0:47:49 > 0:47:52this is what I would see, then. These signals.
0:47:52 > 0:47:56The yellow light, it indicates to the driver you should be ready
0:47:56 > 0:47:59to stop at the next signal which is red.
0:48:00 > 0:48:02So, as you see here,
0:48:02 > 0:48:05the signals are controlled by the movement of the train.
0:48:05 > 0:48:06Right.
0:48:13 > 0:48:17To allow a very high frequency of trains to run on the tracks
0:48:17 > 0:48:21around CST, the distance between them can be as little as 400 metres.
0:48:24 > 0:48:27It's imperative that drivers obey the signals.
0:48:28 > 0:48:33So, if a driver ignores the red signal and keeps on going, what happens then?
0:48:33 > 0:48:36If you pass the signal at red, the auxiliary warning system will
0:48:36 > 0:48:40automatically apply brakes and put your train to halt.
0:48:41 > 0:48:45Passing a red light can be, however, a sackable offence.
0:48:50 > 0:48:54The next step is to learn how to control a locomotive.
0:48:54 > 0:48:57Thankfully, this isn't on the real thing.
0:48:57 > 0:49:01The school has a hi-tech diesel engine simulator.
0:49:01 > 0:49:05It has hydraulics to mimic the physical sensations of driving
0:49:05 > 0:49:09and a video screen showing exactly what the driver sees.
0:49:09 > 0:49:11This is the train driving stimulator.
0:49:11 > 0:49:13I will show you how to drive the train.
0:49:13 > 0:49:15My instructor, Muhammad, is confident
0:49:15 > 0:49:19I can master the complicated looking controls quickly.
0:49:19 > 0:49:22- This is the driving seat. - The driving seat! And there's the...
0:49:22 > 0:49:24- There's the track! - Yeah. These are the brakes.
0:49:26 > 0:49:28- This brake is for train.- Right.
0:49:28 > 0:49:31This is the independent brake only for the locomotive.
0:49:31 > 0:49:34- So this is for the whole train? - Yeah, yeah.
0:49:34 > 0:49:38- And this is throttle.- Throttle. - To accelerate the train.
0:49:38 > 0:49:42- At present, signal is?- Red.- Red. OK, as soon as the signal...
0:49:42 > 0:49:44- Signal is now green.- Now it's green, now you can start.
0:49:44 > 0:49:46First you have to? Press the horn.
0:49:46 > 0:49:48HORN BLARES
0:49:48 > 0:49:50When we start from the station, public should know,
0:49:50 > 0:49:53so for their purpose we are sounding the horn.
0:49:53 > 0:49:56- Now you release the brakes. - Now we release the brakes.- Release.
0:49:56 > 0:49:58Oh, there we go.
0:49:59 > 0:50:04- How about it!- Now it's moving. - We're moving!- Yeah. You can see?
0:50:04 > 0:50:05Yes.
0:50:05 > 0:50:08- So, it's very gentle. - The passengers sitting inside...
0:50:08 > 0:50:11- They don't want to be thrown around. - ..they should not feel a jerk.
0:50:11 > 0:50:17'This kind of train has a maximum speed of 110km per hour.'
0:50:17 > 0:50:20- We are running at a speed of 58km.- 58km.
0:50:21 > 0:50:24You have to watch the track,
0:50:24 > 0:50:27you have to watch the signals as well as the...?
0:50:27 > 0:50:28- Speed.- Speed.
0:50:30 > 0:50:32'It's all rather overwhelming
0:50:32 > 0:50:36'and there are also the complicated gauges to keep my eye on, as well.
0:50:36 > 0:50:39'These monitor brake pressure and engine power.'
0:50:39 > 0:50:42- We're coming up to a station now. - Now we are going through a station.
0:50:42 > 0:50:44- Then that's when we have to sound...- OK.
0:50:44 > 0:50:46HORN BLARES
0:50:46 > 0:50:49So it is a warning for them to move away from the track.
0:50:49 > 0:50:51So, if I did need to stop now...
0:50:51 > 0:50:55- First you have to decelerate this. - So you go right to idle there.
0:50:55 > 0:50:57- Then you can apply the brakes. - And this is the train brakes?
0:50:57 > 0:50:59This is the train brake.
0:50:59 > 0:51:03When you are applying the brakes the pressure is reduced.
0:51:03 > 0:51:07Initially, it was up to 5kg. Now it has come down to 4kg.
0:51:07 > 0:51:11- You are applying the brake of 1kg. - Right.
0:51:11 > 0:51:13'It's all pretty intense.'
0:51:13 > 0:51:16Must keep an eye on the speed, another train coming the other way.
0:51:16 > 0:51:18So it's pretty constant the things you have to do.
0:51:18 > 0:51:19HORN BLARES
0:51:19 > 0:51:21You're not just sitting here.
0:51:22 > 0:51:26Because you're not steering, you know, you don't do steering
0:51:26 > 0:51:30but you have to really keep an eye on what's going on all the time.
0:51:32 > 0:51:34- We're on idle. - HIGH-PITCHED BEEPING
0:51:34 > 0:51:36Everything's good.
0:51:38 > 0:51:40That is really difficult. That isn't...
0:51:40 > 0:51:44It felt really simple to start with until it got really difficult
0:51:44 > 0:51:46and then it proved to be very difficult.
0:51:48 > 0:51:52I'm beginning to understand quite how much there is to learn
0:51:52 > 0:51:56and why it takes 12 years to qualify as a passenger train driver.
0:51:59 > 0:52:01Well, that was my first go in the simulator
0:52:01 > 0:52:03and it might have looked really easy, you know,
0:52:03 > 0:52:06just sitting there, pull a couple of levers, sound the horn, off you go,
0:52:06 > 0:52:09but it requires an enormous amount of concentration and focus.
0:52:09 > 0:52:12There's so many things going on when you're a train driver.
0:52:12 > 0:52:13I did get to have a go on my own
0:52:13 > 0:52:16and eventually have a go in a real locomotive
0:52:16 > 0:52:18and that's coming up in the next programme.
0:52:18 > 0:52:22But right now, here at CST long-distance departure concourse,
0:52:22 > 0:52:25you can see that the time has just gone three o'clock in the afternoon.
0:52:25 > 0:52:27There, up on the departure board, are all the trains
0:52:27 > 0:52:30that are leaving in the next couple of hours.
0:52:30 > 0:52:32All around me are people waiting for the trains.
0:52:32 > 0:52:36Now they arrive here hours and hours early, all sorts of people,
0:52:36 > 0:52:39and they arrive here early because they want to make sure
0:52:39 > 0:52:41they get a seat on the trains. There's a bit of a rush
0:52:41 > 0:52:42when the train comes in
0:52:42 > 0:52:44and all these people are going all over India.
0:52:44 > 0:52:47Some really, really long journeys they're going to be going on.
0:52:47 > 0:52:50They're going to visit relatives, friends and family.
0:52:50 > 0:52:51There's some people on business trips,
0:52:51 > 0:52:53there's people on religious pilgrimages,
0:52:53 > 0:52:57and they're all waiting in here in the noise and chaos of CST.
0:52:57 > 0:53:00It's absolutely extraordinary and over and above all this noise
0:53:00 > 0:53:03and movement, there is this constant supply of announcements
0:53:03 > 0:53:06and they are coming from the announcer's office
0:53:06 > 0:53:08which is up there.
0:53:08 > 0:53:11Everyone up here is hard at work making sure the passengers
0:53:11 > 0:53:14have all the information they require for their trains.
0:53:14 > 0:53:18This here is the all-important train management system.
0:53:18 > 0:53:20It's a live link from the control room.
0:53:20 > 0:53:23They're seeing exactly what they're seeing in the control room.
0:53:23 > 0:53:27We've got platforms number 18 all the way to 11
0:53:27 > 0:53:30and these red lines denote that there is a train in the platform.
0:53:30 > 0:53:33This one has just set off. This is Sushma.
0:53:33 > 0:53:36She has the all-important job of making the announcements.
0:53:36 > 0:53:39I will let you into a little secret. They're pre-recorded.
0:53:39 > 0:53:42So let's see how we make them go live.
0:53:42 > 0:53:45So Sushma-ji, please show me how you punch in some numbers
0:53:45 > 0:53:46and do what you do.
0:53:46 > 0:53:50Every train has a number, they appear on the PC only.
0:53:50 > 0:53:53We just feed that number...
0:53:54 > 0:54:01- 1140.- No, 16381.- OK. So basic...
0:54:01 > 0:54:03Wait one second. Don't press that button. Let's explain it.
0:54:03 > 0:54:0516381, that is...
0:54:05 > 0:54:07The corresponding number is on the board
0:54:07 > 0:54:11outside in the departures lounge so all the passengers can see it.
0:54:11 > 0:54:13It says Kanyakumari Express.
0:54:13 > 0:54:17It's due to depart from platform nine at 15.45.
0:54:17 > 0:54:20Kanyakumari is right at the tip of India, the very bottom point,
0:54:20 > 0:54:22so why don't we make it go live?
0:54:22 > 0:54:25- Let's press that button. - Just press enter.
0:54:25 > 0:54:26TANNOY ANNOUNCEMENT IS MADE
0:54:29 > 0:54:32Every announcement is made in English, Hindi
0:54:32 > 0:54:34and the local language, Marathi.
0:54:34 > 0:54:37'..from Mumbai, the Kanyakumari Express
0:54:37 > 0:54:41'will leave from platform number nine at 3.45.'
0:54:41 > 0:54:44When you're down the platform, it's very difficult to understand,
0:54:44 > 0:54:46- but in here that was quite clear. - Yes.
0:54:46 > 0:54:49Now, sometimes, believe it or not, things can go wrong,
0:54:49 > 0:54:52- can't they, Sushma?- Yes. - Sometimes you have delays.
0:54:52 > 0:54:54Yes, sometimes we have delays.
0:54:54 > 0:54:57And when that happens they have the option here to override
0:54:57 > 0:55:00the system and make a live announcement.
0:55:00 > 0:55:03I'm very excited because Robert Llewellyn got to drive
0:55:03 > 0:55:07a train in India and I also get to live out a dream
0:55:07 > 0:55:10and make an announcement in a train station in Mumbai.
0:55:10 > 0:55:14So let's check the board, Sushma. Are there any delays?
0:55:14 > 0:55:19- No, there is no delay today. All the trains are coming today.- No delays?
0:55:19 > 0:55:22- No delay. Today is a beautiful day. - Today is a beautiful day.
0:55:22 > 0:55:24- What a wonderful thing.- Wonderful.
0:55:24 > 0:55:26So I get to make a positive announcement.
0:55:26 > 0:55:29Do I go for broad Yorkshire? Probably not.
0:55:29 > 0:55:32- So, I hit the mic button. - Yes, mic.- Shall we do this?
0:55:32 > 0:55:33Here we go.
0:55:35 > 0:55:37'Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen,
0:55:37 > 0:55:44'in the departures lounge of the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus.'
0:55:44 > 0:55:47We are delighted to announce that there are currently no delays
0:55:47 > 0:55:50to any of our services so please have a wonderful journey
0:55:50 > 0:55:54and do remember to allow passengers off the train before boarding.
0:55:54 > 0:55:56Thank you.
0:55:57 > 0:56:02- Yes!- Yes.- Yes.- Good job.- Good job. Do I get a job?- Yeah.
0:56:02 > 0:56:04Is there room for two of us up here?
0:56:04 > 0:56:07- Yeah, yeah, sure, sure. - That was fun.
0:56:09 > 0:56:13Announcing and all the other operations we've seen this time
0:56:13 > 0:56:15are crucial here at CST,
0:56:15 > 0:56:18part of the mechanics of this super-sized operation
0:56:18 > 0:56:22and, without them, no-one would be going anywhere.
0:56:23 > 0:56:25Wow! I mean, this station truly is amazing.
0:56:25 > 0:56:28There were so many trains, so many people going through it and then so
0:56:28 > 0:56:31much going on behind-the-scenes that the average passenger doesn't see.
0:56:31 > 0:56:33I mean, I had no idea that up until very recently
0:56:33 > 0:56:35they still washed the sheets by hand here.
0:56:35 > 0:56:39Some hotels, Robert, still do. There's an entire area,
0:56:39 > 0:56:41quite an incredible place in Mumbai
0:56:41 > 0:56:44dedicated to hand-washing called Dhobhi Ghat.
0:56:44 > 0:56:46The times are changing, we've seen that since we been here,
0:56:46 > 0:56:49and it does feel like the railways are going to come under huge pressure
0:56:49 > 0:56:52- from new technology.- Well, I mean, flights are increasing all the time,
0:56:52 > 0:56:54internal flights in India
0:56:54 > 0:56:56getting very popular with the new middle-class.
0:56:56 > 0:57:00I mean, you can fly from here to Delhi in two hours, cost you £70,
0:57:00 > 0:57:03and it takes 16 hours on the train, so, you know, it makes sense.
0:57:03 > 0:57:04Why don't you fly?
0:57:04 > 0:57:06Well, millions of people do, because they can afford it,
0:57:06 > 0:57:10but 55% of the population in this city still live in slums
0:57:10 > 0:57:13and the average wage is £100 a month,
0:57:13 > 0:57:15so you're not going to spend that on a flight,
0:57:15 > 0:57:16- you're going to get the train.- Yes.
0:57:16 > 0:57:18That's exactly the point.
0:57:18 > 0:57:20There's that huge proportion of the Indian population
0:57:20 > 0:57:22who do rely on cheap rail transport.
0:57:22 > 0:57:24I don't think that's going to change that quickly.
0:57:24 > 0:57:26Rail's been here for a long time.
0:57:26 > 0:57:28It doesn't look like it's going anywhere in the short-term.
0:57:28 > 0:57:31Definitely not. Well, there's still so much to learn
0:57:31 > 0:57:32about this astonishing station.
0:57:32 > 0:57:34Here's what we've got coming up next time.
0:57:36 > 0:57:40Tonight, we've explored the long-distance operation at CST.
0:57:42 > 0:57:46Tomorrow, we turn our attention to the suburban services.
0:57:47 > 0:57:49We head back to the control room and witness
0:57:49 > 0:57:53the pressures of getting Mumbai's commuters home on time.
0:57:56 > 0:57:59Robert tries his hand at refurbishing a carriage...
0:57:59 > 0:58:02Oh, I've gone off! Argh!
0:58:02 > 0:58:03There we go.
0:58:03 > 0:58:05..Anita checks out alternatives to rail travel...
0:58:05 > 0:58:07Is this a new road?
0:58:07 > 0:58:10- Yes, this is a new road.- This is the worst new road I've ever...
0:58:10 > 0:58:12This is a new road.
0:58:12 > 0:58:14..John Sergeant discovers how a silver ball
0:58:14 > 0:58:17is the secret of safety on the line...
0:58:18 > 0:58:22..and we reveal the station workers who only come out at night.
0:58:23 > 0:58:26That's all still to come.
0:58:26 > 0:58:29- Thanks the joining us here in Mumbai. Goodbye.- Bye.- Bye-bye.