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0:00:22 > 0:00:24- In this programme...
0:00:24 > 0:00:29- ..we see Tenby through the eyes - of photographer Marian Delyth.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- We discuss - the laws of Hywel Dda...
0:00:32 > 0:00:37- ..and discover - Bishop Gower's holiday home.
0:00:37 > 0:00:42- The Botanic Garden - is worth seeing all year round...
0:00:42 > 0:00:45- ..but our journey begins - in Carmarthen.
0:00:51 > 0:00:56- Moridunum, meaning fort by the sea, - was the original name of Carmarthen.
0:00:56 > 0:01:01- It has Roman roots and some believe - it's the oldest town in Wales.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06- Moridunum was the main centre - of the territory of the Demetae.
0:01:06 > 0:01:11- The remains of a Roman amphitheatre - stand on the outskirts of the town.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15- The Roman town was the old town...
0:01:16 > 0:01:20- ..but a thousand years later, - a new town grew around the castle.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- A castle was built here, - on the ridge above the Tywi...
0:01:25 > 0:01:27- ..at the turn of the 12th century.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- It was a timber and earth castle.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- Stone castles were first built - later in the 12th century.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- The plan was to build - an ambitious castle...
0:01:39 > 0:01:43- ..in the power base of the King - of England in south-west Wales.
0:01:43 > 0:01:48- Owain Gwynedd and Llywelyn the Great - tried to take it.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51- Owain Glyndwr succeeded, - and destroyed much of it.
0:01:51 > 0:01:57- As a result, it was renovated - in 1410, following the Revolt.
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- The 15th century gatehouse is the - most striking part of the castle.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- What you see today is just a quarter - of the size of the castle...
0:02:07 > 0:02:10- ..that stood here - in the 13th century.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- Sections were demolished - to build a prison.
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- The prison was designed - by the famous architect John Nash.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- Very little of it remains...
0:02:22 > 0:02:26- ..because the prison - was demolished in the 1930s...
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- ..to make way - for Carmarthenshire County Hall.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34- Percy Thomas - designed this handsome building.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- The chateau.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- The chateau.- - Yes, and built between 1938 and 1955.
0:02:39 > 0:02:43- It resembles a French chateau - standing above the river.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- It's an eye-catching building.
0:02:47 > 0:02:51- A similar design was used - for Pantycelyn Hall, Aberystwyth.
0:02:51 > 0:02:57- The students who live there are - more interesting than the staff here!
0:02:59 > 0:03:02- Spilman Street - leads to St Peter's Church.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07- Its limewashed tower - makes the exterior interesting.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- The tomb of Rhys ap Thomas makes - the interior just as interesting.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15- He was one of Henry Tudor's - main allies at Bosworth...
0:03:15 > 0:03:18- ..as he tried - to capture the English throne.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- I can't think - of another Welsh town...
0:03:29 > 0:03:34- ..that has so many finely-crafted - places of worship.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38- Yes, and the English Baptist - Church on Lammas Street...
0:03:38 > 0:03:40- ..is the best of the lot.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- It's tucked away - and it suddenly looms large.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- As you approach the chapel...
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- ..you think you're about to enter - an ancient Greek temple.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- In truth, it was completed in 1870.
0:03:53 > 0:03:56- It was designed by George Morgan.
0:03:56 > 0:04:00- He was a member, - and indeed a minister, here.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- Preacher-architects made a huge - contribution to Welsh chapels.
0:04:05 > 0:04:10- The Corinthian pillars outside - make it look like a Greek temple...
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- ..but, in fact, - it isn't quite a classical design.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- The gap - between the central pillars...
0:04:19 > 0:04:21- ..is wider than the gaps - on either side.
0:04:21 > 0:04:25- That affects the classical element, - but it's still wonderful.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28- Along with Bethesda chapel in Mold...
0:04:28 > 0:04:32- ..this must be - the most beautiful chapel in Wales.
0:04:46 > 0:04:50- Our visit to Carmarthen - ends on the banks of the river...
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- ..that is the main reason - for the town's existence.
0:04:55 > 0:04:57- You can navigate the Tywi - to the sea.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- That explains the name Moridunum, - or fort by the sea.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- That's why Carmarthen thrived - in the Middle Ages.
0:05:06 > 0:05:10- A stone bridge was built - across the river in the 13th century.
0:05:11 > 0:05:15- Stone bridges were very rare - in Wales at that time.
0:05:15 > 0:05:20- This rich agricultural area - exported its produce from here.
0:05:20 > 0:05:25- In 1586, William Camden called it - the chief city of the country.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58- The National Botanic Garden - stands on the Middleton Estate.
0:05:59 > 0:06:03- The gardens of the past have been - resurrected with present efforts...
0:06:04 > 0:06:07- ..and with the efforts - of one gifted architect.
0:06:07 > 0:06:11- Only the footprint - of Middleton House remains.
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- It was commissioned by William - Paxton in the late 18th century.
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- Paxton Tower, - which stands on top of the hill...
0:06:19 > 0:06:25- ..was built as a monument - to his close friend, Nelson.
0:06:25 > 0:06:30- The house had many owners before - it became council property in 1931.
0:06:30 > 0:06:34- Almost immediately, - the mansion burnt to the ground.
0:06:34 > 0:06:38- All that remains are the - servants' block and the stables.
0:06:40 > 0:06:44- The new buildings are the real - glory of the Botanic Garden.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- This is the main entrance, - a building called the Gatehouse.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- Its design is based - on the Celtic roundhouse.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- Smoke would exit through a hole - in the roof of a roundhouse...
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- ..but here, we have - a wonderful water feature...
0:07:17 > 0:07:22- ..called Thirty Three Thousand, - Seven Hundred and Ninety Eight.
0:07:22 > 0:07:27- That was the number of plant species - threatened by extinction...
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- ..when the Garden opened in 2000.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45- This is the Circle of Decision.
0:07:46 > 0:07:50- This is where you decide which path - to take around the garden.
0:07:50 > 0:07:55- It takes the form - of the cross-section of an ammonite.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00- The fountain is fed by water - that snakes down the hill...
0:08:00 > 0:08:05- ..echoing the way the Tywi - wends its way down the valley.
0:08:06 > 0:08:11- It also commemorates Edward Llwyd, - the botanist and architect.
0:08:11 > 0:08:14- I'm not sure - what he'd have made of the dome.
0:08:14 > 0:08:16- My decision is made.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20- I'll head for the Great Glasshouse - at the top of the hill.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- The glass dome - is the crowning glory of the garden.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- It was designed - by Norman Foster and Partners.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- This is the world's largest - single span glasshouse.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- It's 110 metres long - by 60 metres wide.
0:08:52 > 0:08:56- The dome is tilted by seven degrees - on its axis to face south...
0:08:56 > 0:09:00- ..to capture the maximum amount - of sunlight each day.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- The glass dome - may look amazing from the outside...
0:09:18 > 0:09:23- ..but nothing prepares you - for the majesty of the interior.
0:09:23 > 0:09:28- The contrast between iron, concrete - and glass and wildlife is stunning.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- Even if you're not interested - in botany, it's a magical place.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15- We think of castles - and ancient buildings...
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- ..as things - that enrich the landscape.
0:10:19 > 0:10:22- This uncompromisingly - modern building...
0:10:22 > 0:10:24- ..also enhances the landscape.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28- Without a shadow of a doubt, - it merits its place on the list.
0:10:31 > 0:10:31- .
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0:10:41 > 0:10:45- Photographer Marian Delyth - is inspired by the sea this week.
0:10:49 > 0:10:51- Editing is always hard...
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- ..especially in - such photogenic locations as Tenby.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- In the end, I drew on my childhood - memories of visiting the beach.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- There's a photograph - that represents the beach.
0:11:05 > 0:11:10- I also needed a collection of shots - depicting various aspects of Tenby.
0:11:11 > 0:11:13- There are small photographs...
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- ..above the titles - of the chapters in the book.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- They are, of course, - the 100 place names.
0:11:20 > 0:11:26- I trimmed one shot to make the - colourful houses its focal point.
0:11:26 > 0:11:31- Some lovely shots - weren't included in the book...
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- ..simply because there was no room.
0:11:50 > 0:11:54- The sun was setting - when you took this photograph.
0:11:55 > 0:11:58- That shadow - brushes the top of the island.
0:11:59 > 0:12:04- I captured this a few seconds - before the sun sank further...
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- ..and plunged the whole island - into shadow.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12- Because there are a few people - on the beach...
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- ..you get an idea of the size - of St Catherine's Island.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- The dramatic fort stands at the top.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25- There's something magical about it.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27- Yes, and it also looks Continental.
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- It doesn't look like Wales.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39- I eventually - came to the conclusion...
0:12:41 > 0:12:45- ..that the shot of golden sands - was most suitable for the book.
0:12:46 > 0:12:50- The tracks - give it a strong graphic element.
0:12:51 > 0:12:56- The sheer simplicity of this - photograph appealed to me.
0:13:01 > 0:13:06- The light wasn't ideal, so I went - for a wander along the beach.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10- Photographers love to work - on beaches, of course.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14- It's a very rich subject, - in the context of images.
0:13:14 > 0:13:16- When the sun comes out...
0:13:16 > 0:13:21- ..there's a lovely quality - to the light in Pembrokeshire.
0:13:21 > 0:13:22- I think it's wonderful.
0:13:31 > 0:13:37- Next, two places for the price - of one - Lamphey and Manorbier.
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- This is Bishop's Palace, Lamphey.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- It was built over three centuries...
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- ..and included a deer park, - fish ponds and a huge granary.
0:14:03 > 0:14:08- The bishop himself lived 30 miles - in that direction, in St David's.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- Rather surprisingly, - this was his summer residence.
0:14:12 > 0:14:16- As the Queen goes to Balmoral, - the bishop came to Lamphey.
0:14:37 > 0:14:42- The Western Hall was built for - Richard Carew in the 13th century.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- Essentially, - it was a banqueting hall.
0:14:45 > 0:14:47- The dining table was on this floor.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- There was a kitchen - and a cellar below it.
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- The plastered walls were decorated - with red and gold paint.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02- Remarkably, the lines and the red - flower beneath the arch survived.
0:15:02 > 0:15:07- The craftsmanship of the masonry - around the window is impressive.
0:15:08 > 0:15:13- They ate the best food and there - was a roaring fire in the corner.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- Everyone wanted - an invitation to dine here.
0:15:16 > 0:15:20- A century later, - Bishop Henry de Gower...
0:15:20 > 0:15:24- ..commissioned the building - of a second hall.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- During the 14th century, - the bishops were the jet set.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- In 1546, the Bishop of St David's - surrendered Lamphey to Henry VIII.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39- The King then granted it - to Richard Devereux.
0:15:39 > 0:15:44- The buildings then deteriorated, - but are now in Cadw's safe hands.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- Manorbier Castle - is a stone's throw from Lamphey.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- Virginia Woolf - spent her childhood summers here.
0:15:52 > 0:15:57- Long before then, it was the home - of another famous writer.
0:16:02 > 0:16:07- Manorbier Castle - and the land that surrounds it...
0:16:07 > 0:16:11- ..was gifted to Odo De Barri - in 1093.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- It was a gift for his help...
0:16:14 > 0:16:18- ..in the Norman campaign - to conquer Pembrokeshire.
0:16:19 > 0:16:22- A comfortable baronial home - was then built here.
0:16:22 > 0:16:28- It was easy to import luxury goods - because the sea is nearby.
0:16:28 > 0:16:33- To the Welsh, Manorbier Castle - is most important...
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- ..because it's the birthplace - of Giraldus Cambrensis.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42- We know Giraldus Cambrensis - as Gerald the Welshman.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- In reality, he was only a quarter - Welsh, through his grandmother.
0:16:47 > 0:16:51- He was a confident man - who indulged in self-praise.
0:16:52 > 0:16:54- He was also an acclaimed writer.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59- He described Manorbier - as "the pleasantest place in Wales".
0:16:59 > 0:17:04- He aspired to become Bishop - of St David's but was thwarted.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- Before you leave the area, - visit King's Quoit burial chamber.
0:17:13 > 0:17:17- It stands here, - above the cliff and the beach...
0:17:17 > 0:17:21- ..where Giraldus's brothers - built sandcastles.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- Giraldus, on the other hand, - built sand cathedrals!
0:17:25 > 0:17:27- This is a special experience.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- En route to Whitland, we stopped - at St Mary Magdalene's Church.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- This church is in St Clears - and this is why we're here.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- This magnificent arch.
0:18:13 > 0:18:14- This magnificent arch.- - Yes, indeed.
0:18:14 > 0:18:20- It's the sole example of Romanesque - architecture in Carmarthenshire.
0:18:20 > 0:18:27- The church was a priory of the - Order of Cluny in around 1100.
0:18:27 > 0:18:29- This arch is really striking.
0:18:30 > 0:18:33- It was built in the second half - of the 12th century.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38- It can be compared - to the famous arch at Strata Florida.
0:18:41 > 0:18:45- The Buildings Of Carmarthenshire - notes that it's crude but robust.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48- That's a wonderful description.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- This is just a pit stop - on our way to Whitland.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- We're really here to see Whitland.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- The Hywel Dda Centre - opened in Whitland in 1984.
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- Hywel Dda was the king - of the whole of Wales.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- The memorial was designed - by the artist Peter Lord.
0:19:28 > 0:19:33- Six gardens represent - an aspect of Hywel Dda's laws.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- There are several small gardens here.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38- Each has a tree at its centre...
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- Each one commemorates - a different aspect of the laws.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- Behind us are references - to the law pertaining to women.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50- There are some interesting comments.
0:19:51 > 0:19:52- I'm very fond of this one.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56- A woman is free to go - where she likes...
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- ..for there is no bondage for her.
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- Not every European law - allowed that...
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- ..in the eighth, ninth - and tenth centuries.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08- Hywel's laws allowed it.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11- We should be proud - of our civilized laws.
0:20:14 > 0:20:19- The Willow Garden - includes feminine symbols...
0:20:19 > 0:20:22- ..such as a crescent-shaped pool.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- The Ash Garden represents - the laws of property.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- The Oak Garden represents laws - pertaining to the King and Court.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39- The Interpretive Centre...
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- ..was designed by Dafydd Thomas - from the Prys Edwards Partnership.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47- In the centre, you can see copies - of Peniarth 28.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- That's the manuscript - drawn up in the 13th century...
0:20:52 > 0:20:53- ..to record Hywel's laws.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- The interesting thing about it - is that it had pictures.
0:20:58 > 0:21:00- That was very unusual.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05- This was an attempt by someone, - 300 years after Hywel's time...
0:21:05 > 0:21:07- ..to draw portraits of him.
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- The drawings of animals include notes - pertaining to their value.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18- Hywel's laws went into detail - about the value of horses and cattle.
0:21:18 > 0:21:24- They also note the value of bulls, - deer and, intriguingly, cats.
0:21:25 > 0:21:27- A cat was worth a penny - when it was born.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31- It was worth two pennies - when it opened its eyes.
0:21:31 > 0:21:35- It was worth four pennies - after it had killed a mouse!
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- There are whimsical elements to it.
0:21:38 > 0:21:40- There are whimsical elements to it.- - Yes, but it's very practical.
0:21:40 > 0:21:45- If you have a cat and someone - kills it, there's a set compensation.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- It was useful to have laws - about these things.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07- A millennium may have passed...
0:22:08 > 0:22:11- ..but many of these laws - are still relevant today.
0:22:11 > 0:22:16- Yes, although Hywel's laws faded - under the influence of English Law.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- The Act of Union nullified them.
0:22:19 > 0:22:25- The law is now changing, - in relation to women's rights...
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- ..and in relation to victims - of other people's actions.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- We're moving back towards the ideas - behind Hywel Dda's laws.
0:22:35 > 0:22:40- In time, we'll live - under Hywel's laws once again.
0:22:40 > 0:22:41- Let's hope so, anyway.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones