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0:00:21 > 0:00:25- This week, the spot in Montgomery - where Welsh polity became a reality.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29- We'll savour a taste of Italy - with Marian Delyth...
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- ..and hare around Pennant Melangell.
0:00:33 > 0:00:37- A great mansion awaits us near - Welshpool, but we begin in Harlech.
0:00:37 > 0:00:42- Welcome to 100 Lle.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- Before visiting the castle, - it's worth exploring Harlech itself.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- The Arts and Crafts-style Wern Fawr - was built for George Davison...
0:01:07 > 0:01:10- ..the head of Kodak Eastman Europe.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- It's now home to Coleg Harlech.
0:01:13 > 0:01:18- Next door is Theatr Harlech, - a contemporary concrete castle.
0:01:23 > 0:01:26- We're looking - at Harlech Castle, John.
0:01:26 > 0:01:30- It's on a hill, - but that has no strategic purpose...
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- ..because the sea has retreated.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- It isn't a statement of power...
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- ..like Caernarfon and Beaumaris.
0:01:40 > 0:01:44- It doesn't protect an estuary, - like Conwy.
0:01:44 > 0:01:48- This area, which became - part of Merionethshire...
0:01:48 > 0:01:50- ..needed some sort of stronghold.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54- It was an unruly area, - or so the king thought.
0:01:54 > 0:01:58- Harlech is also a site of real - significance for the Welsh.
0:01:58 > 0:02:03- Edward I stamped his authority - on any place with Welsh connections.
0:02:04 > 0:02:05- In the Mabinogion...
0:02:05 > 0:02:10- ..the story of Branwen Ferch Llyr - begins on this crag in Harlech.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- It was a natural choice - for Edward I to build here...
0:02:14 > 0:02:17- ..in his quest - to crush Welsh tradition.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- From here, the castle - looks relatively complete.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- I can't see much damage - to its walls from here.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27- No. It looks - in remarkably good condition.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- It was besieged - during the Glyndwr Rising.
0:02:31 > 0:02:36- That's when the damage - to the outer ward may have happened.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- It is relatively unscathed, - compared to other castles.
0:02:41 > 0:02:43- It glowers menacingly.
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- I think this is the Welsh castle - that's most abhorrent to me.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- Harlech Castle was built - to oppress the people.
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- When the castle was built, the sea - reached the foot of the crag.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07- It's a concentric castle, - but the location and the gateway...
0:03:08 > 0:03:10- ..are its most prominent features.
0:03:11 > 0:03:13- In all the castles we've seen...
0:03:13 > 0:03:18- ..I can't remember a gatehouse - as large and solid as this.
0:03:18 > 0:03:23- Caerphilly, Caernarfon and Denbigh - all have solid gatehouses.
0:03:23 > 0:03:28- This one is the most obvious - statement of power.
0:03:28 > 0:03:32- Most of what is now visible - was built between 1283 and 1298.
0:03:32 > 0:03:37- That's a very fast build, in such - a remote and inconvenient spot.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- When you look - at the great gatehouse...
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- ..you see that this is the castle, - more or less.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- It defends the eastern side.
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- That's the only side built - at the same level as the interior.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55- On the western side, - there's a sharp drop...
0:03:56 > 0:03:58- ..towards the sea, in those days.
0:03:58 > 0:04:04- The western, southern and northern - sides didn't need huge defences.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- When Owain Glyndwr - attacked Harlech in 1404...
0:04:08 > 0:04:11- ..there were - only five defenders here.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- Because of the nature - of the building...
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- ..that was enough to repel an army.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- There were three portcullises - and three huge doors.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25- Above the passage, - you can see holes...
0:04:25 > 0:04:29- ..through which projectiles - could be hurled.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32- It took a miracle, - even when it was besieged...
0:04:33 > 0:04:38- ..for an army to defeat - even a handful of English soldiers.
0:04:48 > 0:04:53- We can't leave Harlech - without seeing a 1990s triumph.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56- The restoration of Lasynys Fawr...
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- ..the modest mansion - which was the home of Ellis Wynne.
0:05:01 > 0:05:03- Ellis Wynne was a poet...
0:05:03 > 0:05:08- ..chiefly remembered as the author - of Gweledigaethau Y Bardd Cwsg.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12- This book is one of the classics - of Welsh prose.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- His line - about a long, hot golden summer...
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- ..has become something of a cliche.
0:05:18 > 0:05:22- It proves that the gentry - of Meirionnydd...
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- ..numbered writers who had a superb - command of the Welsh language...
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- ..almost 200 years after the passing - of the Act of Union.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- It's clear that renovation work - has been carried out here.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40- I saw it in the late 1960s - and it was going to rack and ruin.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- You could climb in - to see Ellis Wynne's telephone...
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- ..and Ellis Wynne's floors.
0:05:46 > 0:05:48- The windows were long gone.
0:05:49 > 0:05:52- A group of local people, - Cyfeillion Ellis Wynne...
0:05:53 > 0:05:57- ..carried out - the splendid renovation.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01- They are to be congratulated - for saving a real gem.
0:06:19 > 0:06:25- Surprisingly, in 1801, Welshpool - was the sixth-largest town in Wales.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- A thousand more people lived here - than in Cardiff.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32- Wool was the area's chief industry.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- It flourished thanks to the ease - of exporting on the River Severn...
0:06:38 > 0:06:40- ..and, later, on the canal.
0:06:40 > 0:06:45- Powysland Museum, Wales's oldest - county museum, is by the canal.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- The most memorable sight - in the vicinity is Powis Castle.
0:06:52 > 0:06:57- Welshpool was the seat of a dynasty - of troublesome Welsh princes.
0:06:58 > 0:07:03- The princes of Gwynedd and England - joined forces to try to oust them.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- But Gwenwynwyn ab Owain Cyfeiliog - and his family...
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- ..managed to dig their heels in - and stay here.
0:07:11 > 0:07:15- Owain, his grandson, changed - his name to Baron de la Pole.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19- This place only came to life - in the late 16th century...
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- ..when it was sold - to the Herbert family.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28- The Herberts were staunch Catholics.
0:07:29 > 0:07:34- They had strong links with Rome - and with the English monarchy.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38- The building is now - in the hands of the National Trust.
0:07:38 > 0:07:41- The murals - are among the best in Britain.
0:07:51 > 0:07:52- This is the Long Gallery.
0:07:53 > 0:07:57- It's the only room in the castle - that's exactly as it was...
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- ..when it was designed - by Sir Edward Herbert in the 1590s.
0:08:02 > 0:08:04- The frieze above the panels...
0:08:05 > 0:08:10- ..unites the family's connections - across the generations.
0:08:11 > 0:08:16- The same is also true of the - coat of arms above the fireplace.
0:08:17 > 0:08:22- The Caesar busts are the strangest - feature of the Long Gallery.
0:08:22 > 0:08:26- There are eight of them here - and four more downstairs.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- They came here when the nephew - of the first marquis...
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- ..the Earl of Castlemaine, - was Ambassador to the Vatican.
0:08:36 > 0:08:39- The marble and jasper - pietra dure table...
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- ..was a gift from the Pope.
0:08:43 > 0:08:48- The purpose of the Long Gallery - was to link the grandest rooms.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- The grandest room of them all - was at the far end of the gallery.
0:08:59 > 0:09:01- This is it - the State Bedroom.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- The idea was that you had to provide - a room for a Royal visit.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10- For example, Charles II - and Catherine, his wife...
0:09:10 > 0:09:12- ..slept in this room.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- This balustrade creates - an inner sanctum around the bed.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- Only the Royal Princes - could enter that space.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24- This is the only room of its kind - in the world.
0:09:24 > 0:09:28- The one in Versailles, France, - is a reconstruction.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- The king could hold court - from his bed.
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- You'd be invited here - to his council.
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- If you were really lucky, - you could come in and see him dress!
0:09:50 > 0:09:55- Powis Castle's historical gardens - are among the finest in Britain.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58- William Herbert, - the first Earl of Powis...
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- ..commissioned these four - 200 metre-long terraces.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- They were inspired - by Italy's Renaissance gardens.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- These magnificent formal gardens...
0:10:11 > 0:10:16- ..belong to a time when the castle - was a home rather than a fortress.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- Where better to end the day...
0:10:18 > 0:10:23- ..than among the surreal shapes - of these yew trees?
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0:10:48 > 0:10:53- Next, we see Portmeirion through - the lens of Marian Delyth's camera.
0:11:03 > 0:11:05- Of all the locations in the book...
0:11:05 > 0:11:09- ..Portmeirion is the one - which has most photographs.
0:11:10 > 0:11:14- Yes, and that's partly due - to my love of the place.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- The village - has so many different features.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- I put a series - of small photos on one page.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- I could spend three days - wandering around hidden nooks...
0:11:29 > 0:11:32- ..and finding images - to be photographed.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36- I can't think of a better way - to spend my time.
0:11:36 > 0:11:40- I always think of it - as a tiny Mediterranean island...
0:11:40 > 0:11:44- ..hidden in the heart of Eifionydd.
0:11:44 > 0:11:46- It's a real gem of a place.
0:11:46 > 0:11:48- Yes, it certainly is a gem.
0:11:54 > 0:11:58- I like the relationship - between this foreground...
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- ..and one lonely figure - walking along the beach.
0:12:02 > 0:12:03- It creates drama.
0:12:04 > 0:12:06- There's a special mood to it.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10- That light, set against - such a dark background...
0:12:11 > 0:12:14- ..really makes the sculpture - stand out.
0:12:19 > 0:12:25- I walked around the Gwyllt woodland - and came across the Dogs' Cemetery.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28- This photograph - doesn't appear in the book...
0:12:28 > 0:12:32- ..but the poem - on Sam's headstone is wonderful.
0:12:32 > 0:12:35- Sam, the Workshop Dog. 1979 to 1991.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38- Through white teeth he did smile.
0:12:38 > 0:12:42- And every robber's trousers - would end in tatters.
0:12:42 > 0:12:44- But he was soft-hearted.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46- Just a little lad, deep down.
0:12:46 > 0:12:47- That's lovely.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- That's lovely.- - Yes, it's wonderful.
0:12:59 > 0:13:03- When I arrived back at the village, - hallelujah, the sun was out!
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- I took a few general shots - of the village.
0:13:06 > 0:13:11- Photographs of some traditional - Portmeirion highlights.
0:13:11 > 0:13:16- I had a big bonus later in the day.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22- The visitors - were leaving the village...
0:13:23 > 0:13:30- ..and it coincided with what - photographers call the golden hour.
0:13:31 > 0:13:37- It's that hour in the evening - when there's a golden light.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- It was almost like - having floodlights...
0:13:41 > 0:13:46- ..to highlight the finer details - of the architecture.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- I was intoxicated by the colours - and the shapes.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58- A collection of those shots - fills a whole page.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05- Portmeirion is one - of the wonders of Wales.
0:14:22 > 0:14:28- To see how Wales would look today - had development stopped in 1790...
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- ..visit Montgomery.
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- Our journey begins - on the banks of the River Severn.
0:14:37 > 0:14:43- We're on our way to Montgomery - and we've stopped at Rhyd Chwima.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45- Why is this ford noteworthy?
0:14:45 > 0:14:50- It was the easiest point at which - to enter Wales from England.
0:14:50 > 0:14:55- The river is shallow - and you can cross it on horseback...
0:14:55 > 0:14:57- ..without the need for a bridge.
0:14:58 > 0:15:02- Evidence suggests that happened - from a very early time.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- The mound erected - in around 1070...
0:15:06 > 0:15:10- ..may be the oldest - motte and bailey castle in Wales.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- It's certainly - the oldest one in this area.
0:15:13 > 0:15:18- The greatest event seen - at Rhyd Chwima happened in 1267...
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- ..when the idea of a Welsh polity - was fleshed out.
0:15:23 > 0:15:28- This is where Llywelyn ap Gruffudd - was recognized as Prince of Wales.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- Of course, with a prince - came the idea of a principality.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39- The treaty granting Wales - considerable autonomy...
0:15:39 > 0:15:42- ..was signed by Henry III - and Llywelyn here in 1267.
0:15:42 > 0:15:46- This is arguably - the most important location...
0:15:46 > 0:15:48- ..in Wales's political history.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15- The stone castle was built - by Henry III in the 1220s.
0:16:17 > 0:16:22- An elevated castle is more - threatening than one in a valley.
0:16:24 > 0:16:28- This was the most fortified castle - in the Marches.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33- When you entered the Marches, - you saw Montgomery Castle.
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- From here, you can see - the Severn Valley in all its glory.
0:16:39 > 0:16:44- However, the castle and Rhyd Chwima - aren't the area's crowning glory.
0:16:44 > 0:16:48- The crowning glory - is the town of Montgomery itself.
0:16:48 > 0:16:54- It has been dozing in this remote - green corner of Wales for centuries.
0:17:02 > 0:17:07- Another building linked - to the Herbert family's history...
0:17:07 > 0:17:11- ..is St Nicholas's Church, - which is just off the town square.
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- This may be - the most impressive tomb in Wales.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22- It dates back - to the turn of the 17th century.
0:17:23 > 0:17:27- It's the tomb of Richard Herbert, - owner of the castle...
0:17:27 > 0:17:32- ..and father of poet George Herbert - and Lord Herbert of Cherbury.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- Magdalen, his wife, - is depicted beside him.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- However, she's buried in London, - alongside her second husband.
0:17:40 > 0:17:42- It's a magnificent tomb.
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- You can see their eight children - in the background.
0:17:47 > 0:17:49- They made sure - the lineage continued.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52- This was the castle's church.
0:17:53 > 0:17:58- Like the castle, it was built - at the turn of the 13th century.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- Its dimensions and its grandeur...
0:18:02 > 0:18:07- ..prove that Montgomery - was never intended to be a village.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- It was built to be a royal borough - of some significance.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46- In a town that's so interested - in its heritage and history...
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..it comes as no shock - to find a museum here.
0:18:50 > 0:18:55- It's a charming museum, located - in what was the Old Bell pub.
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- It closed in the 1970s, - but I remember drinking here.
0:18:59 > 0:19:01- It's been a museum since 1981.
0:19:01 > 0:19:06- The town's history as a royal - borough and as a medical centre...
0:19:07 > 0:19:09- ..is very well documented here.
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- Montgomery stands out - among our rural towns.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- I think it's the most wonderful - rural town in Wales.
0:19:17 > 0:19:22- Spending time exploring Montgomery - is one of the great pleasures...
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- ..of travelling around Wales.
0:19:25 > 0:19:30- Seeing the local people's enthusiasm - and pride in their town...
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- ..makes it - a very valuable experience.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- We're on the Berwyn Mountains, - en route to Llangynog...
0:19:48 > 0:19:53- ..Europe's largest lead-mining - centre in the early 18th century.
0:19:53 > 0:19:58- The area displays the fruits - of the labour of man and one woman.
0:20:22 > 0:20:27- This is St Melangell's Church, - at the far end of Cwm Pennant.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- It's some five miles from Llangynog, - at the foot of the Berwyn Mountains.
0:20:32 > 0:20:37- The church was built in a circular - cemetery, surrounded by yew trees.
0:20:38 > 0:20:41- Some of the trees - are 2,000 years old.
0:20:42 > 0:20:45- The site is far older - than the church itself.
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- The story goes that Melangell - came here from Ireland.
0:20:50 > 0:20:54- When Brochwel, Prince of Powys, - came to hunt in the valley...
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- ..a hare found shelter - beneath Melangell's skirt.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- Brochwel was struck by her bravery - and her sanctity.
0:21:02 > 0:21:05- He gave her this valley - as a sanctuary.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- Pilgrims have come here - almost since then.
0:21:16 > 0:21:22- By 1987, the church was so run-down - that it was almost beyond repair.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- It has since been renovated, - as you can see.
0:21:26 > 0:21:32- Despite its remote location, - it's home to a Welsh treasure.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- Here it is - St Melangell's Shrine.
0:21:43 > 0:21:48- John tells me there is no finer - example of Celtic/Romanesque work...
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- ..in northern Europe than this - shrine in Pennant Melangell.
0:21:52 > 0:21:54- It was reconstructed...
0:21:55 > 0:21:59- ..after it was demolished - during the Protestant Reformation.
0:22:00 > 0:22:05- The stones were hidden in the walls - of the church and the cemetery.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09- They were rebuilt in the 1990s.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- The bones of Melangell - lie within the shrine.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- Her grave was discovered...
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- ..and its stone cover - is in the apse, through that arch.
0:22:45 > 0:22:50- The book Wales: 100 Places - To See Before You Die...
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- ..has brought Welsh people - closer to Wales...
0:22:53 > 0:22:58- ..and has revealed wonders - that could have passed us by.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- Pennant Melangell - is certainly one of them.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:37 > 0:23:37- .