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0:00:21 > 0:00:25- In this programme, we visit - five places to see before you die.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29- We see Castell Coch, - William Burges's creation.
0:00:29 > 0:00:33- We see Pontypridd - through Marian Delyth's lens.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38- From St Fagans, we move on - to the splendid Llandaff Cathedral.
0:00:38 > 0:00:42- Our odyssey begins in Caerphilly, - with the author John Davies.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- We're standing outside - Wales's biggest castle...
0:00:59 > 0:01:01- ..Caerphilly Castle.
0:01:01 > 0:01:04- Surprisingly, - it wasn't a royal castle.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06- No, it was never - in a king's hands.
0:01:07 > 0:01:11- It belonged to the lord - of Glamorgan, Gilbert de Clare...
0:01:11 > 0:01:14- ..a masterful lord of the March.
0:01:14 > 0:01:19- It's the largest castle in Wales - and the second-largest in Britain.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- Windsor Castle is slightly bigger.
0:01:23 > 0:01:25- This is a very substantial castle.
0:01:25 > 0:01:27- Why is it so big?
0:01:27 > 0:01:29- Why is it so big?- - It's a tribute to Welsh power.
0:01:30 > 0:01:35- The Normans seized control - of the coastal regions initially.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- They built a castle in Cardiff...
0:01:39 > 0:01:44- ..but left the Glamorgan uplands - in the hands of local lords.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47- People like Ifor Bach - and his descendants.
0:01:47 > 0:01:52- By the time Llywelyn ap Gruffudd's - power had spread to these parts...
0:01:52 > 0:01:57- ..the Welsh lords were happier - to recognize Llywelyn...
0:01:57 > 0:02:00- ..rather than - a Norman lord of Cardiff.
0:02:00 > 0:02:04- The de Clare family - was well aware of that.
0:02:04 > 0:02:09- They built this castle to combat - the threat posed by Llywelyn.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- This is a symbol of the battle - to save Cardiff from Welsh rule!
0:02:13 > 0:02:15- Things have changed.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30- Looking at the outer ward...
0:02:30 > 0:02:34- ..across the water, which is vital - to the castle's design...
0:02:35 > 0:02:38- ..we can see the vastness - of this castle.
0:02:39 > 0:02:41- It looks enormous from here.
0:02:41 > 0:02:45- The castle itself is at least - as big as Beaumaris Castle.
0:02:46 > 0:02:51- This was the first concentric castle - to be built in Britain.
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- Similar castles were built - in Palestine during the Crusades.
0:02:55 > 0:03:00- The idea was for the outer ward - to wholly enclose the inner ward.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03- That's precisely what you have here.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- You can see the wall - of the outer ward there...
0:03:07 > 0:03:09- ..and the wall of the inner ward.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- You can also see - the solid gatehouse...
0:03:13 > 0:03:16- ..and the very striking - water defences.
0:03:16 > 0:03:21- The concentric design is the most - important element of this castle.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- We think of Beaumaris - as a perfect concentric castle...
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- ..but this was built - at least 30 years before Beaumaris.
0:03:30 > 0:03:35- The builders of Caerphilly Castle - were very much pioneers.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- This is the Great Hall, - within the inner ward.
0:03:50 > 0:03:52- It has a roof...
0:03:52 > 0:03:57- ..which in itself sets it apart - from every other castle we've seen!
0:03:58 > 0:04:00- The roof isn't original, of course.
0:04:00 > 0:04:05- The hall was built by the de Clares - in the late 13th century.
0:04:05 > 0:04:10- It was remodelled by the Despensers - during the 14th century...
0:04:10 > 0:04:13- ..but was then left - to go to rack and ruin.
0:04:15 > 0:04:20- It was restored in the 19th century - by the third Marquess of Bute.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22- He put a roof on the Great Hall...
0:04:23 > 0:04:27- ..for a visit by the Royal - Archaeological Society.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- There are photographs - of them feasting here.
0:04:34 > 0:04:39- The Royal Archaeological Society's - visit in 1871...
0:04:39 > 0:04:41- ..was very much a celebrated event.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- As well as putting a roof - on the Great Hall...
0:04:45 > 0:04:51- ..the third and fourth marquesses - spent a fortune on restoration work.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57- Caerphilly Castle is famous - for its leaning tower.
0:04:57 > 0:05:02- It's as though it was frozen - in the process of falling down!
0:05:02 > 0:05:03- That's very true.
0:05:04 > 0:05:07- It didn't look like this - in the 13th century.
0:05:07 > 0:05:11- It leans 10 degrees out of true, - which is an alarming angle.
0:05:11 > 0:05:15- The tower at Pisa only leans - 3.9 degrees out of true.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- It's more of a leaning tower - than anything you'll see in Italy.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22- We should erect a sign in Pisa...
0:05:23 > 0:05:26- ..saying - "Welcome to the Italian Caerphilly"!
0:05:26 > 0:05:30- The tower in Caerphilly - is superior to the one in Pisa.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- The idea of straightening it - was mooted...
0:05:33 > 0:05:35- ..but they decided to keep it.
0:06:13 > 0:06:18- We tend to think of Castell Coch - as a mere medieval folly...
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- ..from that romantic period - in the late 19th century.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- But a castle stood here - 600 years earlier.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29- It was built - by the de Clares...
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- ..the same family - that built Caerphilly Castle.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- We know that from the angular style - at the base of the towers.
0:06:38 > 0:06:43- It's the same angled style - as Marten's Tower, Chepstow Castle.
0:06:43 > 0:06:48- The castle was damaged during - the revolt of Llywelyn Bren...
0:06:48 > 0:06:50- ..from 1314 to 1316.
0:06:50 > 0:06:53- Very little - is known about Llywelyn Bren...
0:06:54 > 0:06:58- ..but we do know his revolt - was short-lived but fierce.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02- The castle lay in ruins - for 500 years...
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- ..until the third Marquess of Bute - and William Burges...
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- ..wrote a remarkable new chapter - in the history of Castell Coch.
0:07:23 > 0:07:27- The footprint of this castle - matches the original exactly...
0:07:27 > 0:07:32- ..but its style is all about - Burges's travels around Europe.
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- This design is firmly based - on French Gothic architecture.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- The conical roofs of the towers - are a good example of that.
0:07:41 > 0:07:45- The real glory of Castell Coch - is the internal decoration.
0:07:47 > 0:07:52- William Burges turned - architectural dreams into reality...
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- ..for the third Marquess of Bute.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- Burges's love - of the French Gothic style...
0:07:58 > 0:08:03- ..was inspired by the restorations - of Viollet-le-Duc.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06- This is the drawing room.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10- People came here after feasting - in the Banqueting Hall.
0:08:10 > 0:08:15- It would have been a sight to behold - after a sumptuous meal.
0:08:15 > 0:08:20- People came here to relax and to - marvel at the breathtaking decor.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25- The main feature of this room - is the tableau above the fireplace.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- Here, we see the thread of life.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- Clotho spins the thread, - it's measured by Lachesis...
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- ..and Atropos cuts it at death.
0:08:34 > 0:08:39- Wherever you look in this room, - you see decorative touches.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- The arch above the fireplace - features lizards, frogs...
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- ..and creepy-crawlies - peeking out between the leaves.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53- It's typical of the touches - you see at Castell Coch.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05- This is the Marchioness - of Bute's bedroom.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- Look at that wonderful - domed ceiling!
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- We're at the top of the tower, - so the views are breathtaking.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- This is one of the most - ornate rooms in the castle.
0:09:16 > 0:09:21- The magnificent domed ceiling - is wonderfully decorated.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24- Imagine looking up from your bed - and seeing that!
0:09:25 > 0:09:30- There's a striking contrast between - the splendid decorated ceiling...
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- ..with its light elegance...
0:09:33 > 0:09:38- ..and the heavy pillars - and rhythmic patterns on the walls.
0:09:38 > 0:09:43- That's what you got when you invited - William Burges into your house.
0:09:43 > 0:09:47- He designed the carpets, - the furniture, the walls...
0:09:47 > 0:09:52- ..the ceilings, the light - and even this basin and pedestal.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- The towers on either side - held hot and cold water.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- There's even B for Bute - on the tap.
0:09:59 > 0:10:04- When Burges died in 1881, - the work was unfinished.
0:10:04 > 0:10:09- The interior was completed under - the supervision of his assistants...
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- ..J S Chapple and William Frame.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16- Castell Coch is now seen as - a Victorian architectural gem.
0:10:16 > 0:10:20- Castell Coch is so small, - you can see it all in one morning...
0:10:21 > 0:10:25- ..and move on to another of the - 100 Places To See Before You Die.
0:10:32 > 0:10:32- .
0:10:36 > 0:10:36- 888
0:10:36 > 0:10:38- 888- - 888
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- We're in your studio - to discuss Pontypridd, Marian.
0:10:58 > 0:11:03- Most would think of the bridge - as an obvious starting point.
0:11:03 > 0:11:07- Yes, that's quite predictable - but visitors are disappointed...
0:11:08 > 0:11:13- ..if they go there expecting to see - the romantic images of the bridge...
0:11:13 > 0:11:18- ..featured in old pictures - and on Nantgarw porcelain.
0:11:19 > 0:11:25- These days, the old bridge - is surrounded by the new bridge...
0:11:25 > 0:11:28- ..and by contemporary buildings.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34- A never-ending stream of traffic - hurtles past it.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- For that reason, I decided - not to focus on the bridge.
0:11:41 > 0:11:46- I sought solace in Pontypridd's - more romantic elements.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- Above Pontypridd, - looking down on the town...
0:11:58 > 0:12:04- ..is this stone circle, - the Rocking Stone at its centre.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- Iolo Morganwg, - the great Welsh romantic...
0:12:11 > 0:12:17- ..announced plans to hold - an eisteddfod there back in 1815.
0:12:18 > 0:12:23- It's a wonderful oasis of calm, - above the din of the traffic.
0:12:23 > 0:12:28- It's a popular destination - for local walkers.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39- I then decided to focus...
0:12:39 > 0:12:43- ..on a traditional, conventional - method of immortalization.
0:12:47 > 0:12:53- I went on to Ynysangharad Park, - near the heart of the town.
0:12:54 > 0:13:00- I went there to photograph the - wonderful Goscombe John memorial...
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- ..to the James brothers - who wrote Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau...
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- ..the Welsh national anthem.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22- I think these sculptures - are lifelike.
0:13:22 > 0:13:27- It's wonderful to reach a location - when the light is perfect.
0:13:27 > 0:13:31- That allows me to show the subject - in all its glory.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36- These don't appear in the book.
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- An existing photo of mine - was scanned and used for the book.
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- The Earl of Plymouth - presented St Fagans Castle...
0:13:56 > 0:13:59- ..to the National Museum of Wales - in 1946.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02- Most of the building - is Elizabethan...
0:14:02 > 0:14:06- ..and was built - by the Herbert family in 1548.
0:14:06 > 0:14:10- It's one of the finest - Elizabethan buildings in Wales.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13- The name St Fagans Castle - is misleading.
0:14:13 > 0:14:15- It was never a castle.
0:14:16 > 0:14:21- These outer defences have more to do - with fashion than fortification.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24- This was the first step - in the process...
0:14:24 > 0:14:29- ..of turning Iorwerth Peate's dream - of creating a Welsh folk museum...
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- ..into a glorious reality.
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- St Fagans is one of Europe's - leading open-air museums.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- It's also the most popular - tourist attraction in Wales.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48- Over 40 buildings - from Celtic times to modern times...
0:14:48 > 0:14:50- ..are housed on the site.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- We've come from the old entrance, - opposite the castle...
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- ..to the new entrance.
0:15:03 > 0:15:08- The emphasis is on old buildings - moved here from across Wales...
0:15:08 > 0:15:13- ..and it's easy to overlook - the new buildings erected here.
0:15:14 > 0:15:19- This was designed by Ivan Dale Owen - and the Percy Thomas Partnership...
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- ..and was opened in the 1970s.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- Dale Owen studied in America...
0:15:28 > 0:15:32- ..under the famous Walter Gropius, - one of the founders of Bauhaus.
0:15:33 > 0:15:35- The administrative block - at the museum...
0:15:36 > 0:15:40- ..displays a contemporary - international vision.
0:15:40 > 0:15:45- Let's step back several centuries - to visit St Teilo's Church.
0:15:45 > 0:15:50- Moved here from Pontarddulais, - it opened to the public in 2007.
0:15:56 > 0:16:00- The interior is decorated - in an early 16th century style...
0:16:01 > 0:16:04- ..when this was still - a Catholic church.
0:16:04 > 0:16:06- There were pictures on the walls...
0:16:06 > 0:16:10- ..when this church - was in Llandeilo Talybont.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- They were exposed by water - leaking through the roof.
0:16:14 > 0:16:19- It would have been decorated - in this way before the Reformation.
0:16:19 > 0:16:24- Llandeilo Talybont was on the - Pilgrims' Route to St David's.
0:16:24 > 0:16:28- That's underlined - by St Christopher over here.
0:16:28 > 0:16:32- On the other side, - we have the Sunday Christ.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36- It's a warning to those - who worked on Sundays...
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- ..that sabbath-breaking - was not acceptable.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- Here we see Christ - surrounded by tools...
0:16:43 > 0:16:49- ..to remind people that using them - on a Sunday would hurt Jesus.
0:16:49 > 0:16:55- These images were designed to reach - a largely illiterate audience.
0:17:20 > 0:17:25- One of St Fagans's top attractions - is the terrace from Rhyd-y-car.
0:17:25 > 0:17:28- It's one terrace from six periods...
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- ..starting in 1855 with - the white house at the bottom...
0:17:33 > 0:17:37- ..progressing all the way to 1985, - with the pink house at the top.
0:18:29 > 0:18:34- When we think of Llandaff, - we usually think of the cathedral...
0:18:34 > 0:18:37- ..but we're in Llandaff Castle!
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- Yes, though the castle - lies in ruins.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46- It seems Llandaff was a diocese - as far back as the 6th century...
0:18:46 > 0:18:51- ..when the bishop lived - with his fellow monks.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- In the 13th century, the bishop - felt he needed a castle...
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- ..in order to feel secure.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- Bishops were largely outsiders - whom local people disliked.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- They needed somewhere - that could be defended.
0:19:08 > 0:19:10- This is a genuine castle.
0:19:10 > 0:19:14- The diocese of Llandaff suffered - hugely during the Reformation.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- The bishops decided to keep - the lands for themselves...
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- ..or to sell them and make money.
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- As one 17th century - Bishop of Llandaff put it...
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- .."I am the bishop of Aff, - for all the land has gone."
0:19:29 > 0:19:32- They were so poor, - the castle fell into ruin.
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- This is in a worse condition than - many of Wales's secular castles.
0:19:38 > 0:19:41- The cathedral - has been rebuilt several times.
0:19:41 > 0:19:46- Yes, it has suffered - more than any church in Britain.
0:19:47 > 0:19:49- The building collapsed in 1723.
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- It was bombed in the 20th century.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55- Fire destroyed the organ in 2000.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- It has seen a string of tragedies...
0:19:58 > 0:20:02- ..as though God were persecuting - the Anglicans of Llandaff!
0:20:05 > 0:20:08- Evidence of various - architectural periods...
0:20:08 > 0:20:11- ..can be seen in the church walls.
0:20:12 > 0:20:16- The western facade is an example - of early Gothic design.
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- The 19th century south-western tower - gave the cathedral...
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- ..a distinctiveness - it had previously lacked.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31- There's a majestic Romanesque arch - on the south side.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34- We saw a Romanesque arch - outside the building...
0:20:34 > 0:20:39- ..but it pales in comparison - to this arch inside the church.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42- Yes, and this really is magnificent.
0:20:42 > 0:20:47- It's the main surviving feature - from the building...
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- ..commissioned by Urban, - the bishop here from 1107 to 1133.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- It's a wonderful example - of Romanesque architecture.
0:20:56 > 0:21:00- It's a curved arch which is typical - of 12th century architecture.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- I believe that it's the best - 12th century arch in Wales.
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- The high altar in the Lady Chapel...
0:21:10 > 0:21:14- ..is an attempt to link Mary - to the Welsh tradition.
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- There are nine plants whose names - in Welsh contain the word Mair.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- The old Welsh name for foxgloves - translates as Mary's thimbles.
0:21:32 > 0:21:38- The flowers do resemble thimbles, - and it's a charming display.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42- It's an example of a rare attempt - by the church...
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- ..to show respect - to the Welsh language.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- One advantage of having a church - that is regularly damaged...
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- ..is that you can rebuild it.
0:22:19 > 0:22:20- Yes, that's very true.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- The 1941 bomb blew out the windows - and the building was blackened.
0:22:26 > 0:22:29- When Glyn Simon became bishop - in the mid 1950s...
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- ..they were busy restoring - the cathedral to its former glory.
0:22:34 > 0:22:39- Glyn Simon felt it was a chance - to do something new and fresh.
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- He wanted to do - something revolutionary here.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- There's a huge variety of stones - in this cathedral...
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- ..so he decided to build - a big concrete arch in the middle.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- The whole structure - is made of concrete...
0:22:54 > 0:22:59- ..and Epstein's aluminium statue - of Christ is mounted onto it.
0:22:59 > 0:23:01- This arch and the statue...
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- ..add an unexpected and unique twist - to this cathedral.
0:23:47 > 0:23:50- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones