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0:00:22 > 0:00:27- In this programme, we explore - the splendour of Cardiff Castle...
0:00:27 > 0:00:30- ..a Renaissance porch - in the Vale of Glamorgan...
0:00:31 > 0:00:33- ..the beautiful civic centre...
0:00:33 > 0:00:37- ..Cardiff Bay through - Marian Delyth's photographic lens...
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- ..and the unexpected wonders - of Barry.
0:00:42 > 0:00:46- Welcome to Barry, a town - that has often been ridiculed.
0:00:46 > 0:00:49- But it's far more interesting - than you'd expect.
0:00:52 > 0:00:57- The most remarkable fact about Barry - is its rapid growth.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- In 1881, the parish of Barry - had fewer than 100 inhabitants.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06- But the town swallowed up nearby - parishes and within 20 years...
0:01:07 > 0:01:10- ..the population grew to 27,000...
0:01:10 > 0:01:12- ..thanks to one man in particular.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16- David Davies, Llandinam.
0:01:16 > 0:01:21- A Welsh entrepreneur who founded - the town and port of Barry.
0:01:21 > 0:01:26- A remarkable man from a remarkable - family who founded Gregynog...
0:01:26 > 0:01:32- ..and who became responsible for a - collection of the finest French art.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36- This is the docks' headquarters, - erected in 1898...
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- ..when the docks were at their peak.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- It's an example - of a calendar building.
0:01:43 > 0:01:48- It has four chimneys - which represent the seasons...
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- ..52 rooms representing - the weeks of the year...
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- ..and 365 windows.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- The small window in the roof...
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- ..more than likely - represents a leap year!
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- Perhaps the biggest surprise...
0:02:08 > 0:02:13- ..amongst all these - 20th and 21st-century villas...
0:02:13 > 0:02:18- ..is that there are remains of a - Roman villa from the third century.
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- It existed here before the arrival - of Billy Butlin and everybody else.
0:02:22 > 0:02:27- The shape might have changed - but the tiles are exactly the same.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- "Oh, that I had wings like a dove!
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- "For then would I fly away"
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- Where is the tallest dove-cot - in Wales...
0:02:46 > 0:02:50- ..dating back to the 13th century - and in excellent condition?
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- In someone's backyard - at the end of Gladstone Road!
0:02:54 > 0:02:56- It's extraordinary.
0:03:02 > 0:03:08- Today, Barry is the location for one - of our most popular love stories.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- It's so easy - to recall the joy I felt...
0:03:21 > 0:03:23- ..coming here to Barry Island.
0:03:23 > 0:03:27- It was the destination - for numerous mystery trips...
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- ..with the Sunday school, - before the days of sunscreen...
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- ..and when deacons - sat on the beach in suits and ties.
0:03:35 > 0:03:40- Butlins came and went and the fair - isn't as vibrant as it once was...
0:03:41 > 0:03:45- ..but you won't find a better beach - anywhere.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- How many of you, - on a rugby international day...
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- ..have walked past Cardiff Castle - without going inside...
0:04:14 > 0:04:16- ..to explore its long history?
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- The history of its four Roman forts - - yes, four!
0:04:26 > 0:04:31- The last is one of Europe's rarest - examples of a stone-built fort.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- There have been many developments - over two millennia...
0:04:49 > 0:04:52- ..but the most notable - and colourful contributor...
0:04:53 > 0:04:57- ..was William Burges, the 3rd - Marquess of Bute's architect.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25- How much of a part - in Cardiff's development...
0:05:25 > 0:05:27- ..did this man play?
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- This is the 2nd Marquess of Bute - who died in 1848.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- I'd argue, and I wouldn't expect - anyone to disagree with me...
0:05:35 > 0:05:38- ..that he was - the most significant figure...
0:05:39 > 0:05:41- ..of 19th-century Welsh history.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- He established - Cardiff's first dock...
0:05:44 > 0:05:49- ..making it the world's most - important port for coal export.
0:05:49 > 0:05:53- He proved the Rhondda's steam coal - lay at exploitable depths...
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- ..thus beginning a significant - chapter in Welsh history.
0:05:58 > 0:06:03- He also owned Dowlais ironworks, the - largest of its kind in the world.
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- You'd struggle to find someone - who could compete with him.
0:06:07 > 0:06:11- His history is chronicled - in a volume entitled...
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- ..Cardiff And The Marquesses - Of Bute, which I wrote myself.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- And who is this gentleman, John?
0:06:25 > 0:06:29- The 3rd Marquess of Bute - who was born in 1847.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- He died in 1900.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- Considering it was his father - who made the fortune...
0:06:37 > 0:06:39- ..it was he - who set about spending it.
0:06:39 > 0:06:42- When he came of age in 1868...
0:06:43 > 0:06:45- ..he was wealthy enough - to start The Western Mail.
0:06:46 > 0:06:48- He lived like a king.
0:06:48 > 0:06:52- In actual fact, he was wealthier - than the royal family at the time.
0:06:55 > 0:07:01- It's no wonder they call this room - the Arab Room.
0:07:01 > 0:07:05- It was based on a book - about the culture of Cairo.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10- Burges, who had a keen interest - in international architecture...
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- ..was deeply inspired.
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- The ornate ceiling...
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- ..and the gold embellishments...
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- ..are extremely lavish displays.
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- It wasn't until the second half - of the 20th century...
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- ..that places such as this - were appreciated.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33- When the National Trust's - senior official came to see it...
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- ..he said, - "The best idea is to demolish it!"
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- He came in 1941, when such - architecture wasn't fashionable.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44- Pevsner, in his book, - Pioneers Of Modern Design...
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- ..refers to Burges as a dead end.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- But by the second half - of the 20th century...
0:07:51 > 0:07:56- ..a new appreciation for Burges's - refinement started to emerge.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- Mr Burges's "over-the-topness" - is clearly visible here.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- This is where banquets - would have been hosted.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- It's an incredibly noble room.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- European leaders have dined here.
0:08:15 > 0:08:18- There's an interesting depiction...
0:08:18 > 0:08:23- ..of Robert, William The Conqueror's - eldest son...
0:08:23 > 0:08:28- ..being incarcerated by his brothers - who didn't want him to inherit.
0:08:28 > 0:08:32- It's yet another example - of Burges's imagination.
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- The roof is adorned with angels and - inscribed with the names of earls...
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- ..and Bute's relatives, - among others.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- This room is particularly elegant.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- It says a lot - about this family's wealth...
0:09:02 > 0:09:05- ..that they could - set aside enough money...
0:09:05 > 0:09:07- ..to build a summer smoking room.
0:09:07 > 0:09:12- Indeed. Lower down this tower - is a winter smoking room too.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- Bear in mind - that this tower was erected...
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- ..while the 3rd Marquess of Bute....
0:09:20 > 0:09:22- ..was still single.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24- It was actually a bachelor pad.
0:09:24 > 0:09:29- There was no stopping - his enthusiasm for ornateness.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31- No, but Burges and Bute...
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- ..certainly encouraged one another.
0:09:35 > 0:09:37- But the principal difference...
0:09:37 > 0:09:40- ..was that Burges - was very knowledgeable...
0:09:40 > 0:09:44- ..about traditional - medieval European architecture.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47- But part of its appeal - is that it is housed...
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- ..in the clock tower, so he could - look out of the window...
0:09:53 > 0:09:58- ..and see the city, established, - in part, by his father...
0:09:58 > 0:10:00- ..developing around him.
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- I must emphasize that the city - wouldn't have been founded...
0:10:04 > 0:10:09- ..if it weren't for Rhondda coal, so - Cardiff people should remember that!
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0:10:21 > 0:10:26- Cardiff Bay is the focus of - Marian Delyth's attention this week.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- Cardiff Bay is a new term.
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- For people who lived in Cardiff - in the 1970s...
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- ..it was known as The Docks.
0:10:36 > 0:10:40- Yes, and its new name reflects - the changes that have occurred.
0:10:40 > 0:10:45- Since I've been taking photographs - of different cities over time...
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- ..it's interesting to see...
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- ..how the changes, the old - and the new, have come together.
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- You're reminded - of the place's past...
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- ..amid the hustle and bustle - of present day.
0:11:00 > 0:11:05- But it's also tinged with sadness - at the loss of a community...
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- ..even though the intention - was to relocate.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- You get a sense that the place - is missing something.
0:11:13 > 0:11:18- It's obvious that an artist - or someone has felt the need...
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- ..to get the point across visually.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39- I went to the Millennium Centre...
0:11:40 > 0:11:45- ..to take photographs - through the narrow windows.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48- The old architecture - is still visible.
0:11:49 > 0:11:55- Once again, the contemporary, - square, geometric shapes...
0:11:55 > 0:12:00- ..are juxtaposed with the older - architecture visible outside.
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- As well as the steel and glass...
0:12:03 > 0:12:07- ..of contemporary architecture - in the Bay...
0:12:08 > 0:12:13- ..it's interesting to see - the use of raw, native materials...
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- ..such as slate and wood.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- I wanted to focus on the glass...
0:12:18 > 0:12:22- ..to see what was reflected in it...
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- ..that conveyed life - outside the buildings.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- The main photograph - I used in the book...
0:12:30 > 0:12:33- ..was of the Senedd Building.
0:12:33 > 0:12:38- In the windows are reflections - of life on the outside.
0:12:38 > 0:12:40- I thought the image was apt...
0:12:40 > 0:12:45- ..for an institution which aims - to be transparent in its affairs.
0:12:45 > 0:12:49- It also reflects life outside.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- Perhaps it's a suitable image - for that institution.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14- I think there's - a contemporary, cosmopolitan...
0:13:14 > 0:13:16- ..and European feel to the place.
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- And of course, - it's always been cosmopolitan.
0:13:20 > 0:13:22- All walks of life can be found...
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- ..within a mile of each other - in Tiger Bay, or so the saying goes.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30- It's somehow earned its status.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- It's popular with residents - and visitors alike.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- BELL CHIMES
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- We're in front of the main buildings - in Cathays Park.
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- For me, they are unrivalled.
0:14:00 > 0:14:06- I'd say that Cardiff has - the best civic centre in the world.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- It's been underlined by the fact...
0:14:09 > 0:14:13- ..that there's a splendid unity - to these prominent buildings.
0:14:14 > 0:14:16- City Hall was completed in 1905.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18- Notice the cornicing.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22- The intention was - not to build anything above it...
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- ..so that it unified the buildings, - as did the Portland stone.
0:14:28 > 0:14:33- The Law Courts are slightly - different, but there is unity here.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37- What I like more than anything - is that the clock tower...
0:14:38 > 0:14:42- ..is a foot or so taller - than the castle's clock tower.
0:14:42 > 0:14:46- It somehow emphasizes - that the civic buildings...
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- ..are more important than any lord.
0:14:50 > 0:14:52- Lloyd George, - who was Chancellor at the time...
0:14:53 > 0:14:56- ..contributed generously - to Cathays Park.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- He also opened City Hall's - collection of Welsh heroes.
0:15:03 > 0:15:04- Majesty in marble...
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- ..statues funded by a gift from - 1st Viscount Rhondda, DA Thomas.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- The building - was completed in 1905...
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- ..the same year as Cardiff - was granted city status.
0:15:16 > 0:15:21- The aim was to confirm Cardiff's - role, not only as a city...
0:15:21 > 0:15:24- ..but as the main town centre - in Wales.
0:15:24 > 0:15:27- Marble Hall was a fitting tribute - to its heroes.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- There are eleven in all. - St David is here in the centre.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34- They are all men...
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- ..apart from Boadicea - who lived in Norfolk.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- The museum is far less ornate.
0:15:52 > 0:15:57- Yes, it's much more rustic - whereas City Hall is very grandiose.
0:15:57 > 0:16:00- Though they are - different buildings...
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- ..they belong to the same tradition.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06- They are variations - on the same theme.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- The war memorial stands - in the heart of the civic centre.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27- It's refreshing to see - the inscription in Welsh.
0:16:28 > 0:16:31- From R Williams Parry's - memorial poem for Hedd Wyn.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- It was erected in the 1920s...
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- ..before Cardiff had been recognized - as Wales's capital city.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41- It's to commemorate - the Welsh who died.
0:16:42 > 0:16:47- Other towns in Wales thought they - were more deserving of the memorial.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- Bangor, Swansea, Newport - as well as other places...
0:16:52 > 0:16:55- ..all had their own designs on it.
0:16:55 > 0:17:00- It was a way of saying to Cardiff, - don't push your luck.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05- This is hallowed ground - for all Welsh people.
0:17:16 > 0:17:21- We're outside the Temple of Peace - but I'm unsure of its purpose.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- It was erected - at the beginning of WWII.
0:17:24 > 0:17:28- Yes, inspired by - Lord Davies Llandinam's desire...
0:17:28 > 0:17:31- ..for international peace.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- It was built as a memorial - to the casualties of WWI...
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- ..as well as a headquarters - for the League of Nations...
0:17:40 > 0:17:42- ..to promote world peace.
0:17:42 > 0:17:44- It's a very interesting building.
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- It was designed by Percy Thomas, - Wales's most prominent architect.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54- He described it - as a stripped classical design.
0:18:00 > 0:18:04- How would you describe - these statues?
0:18:04 > 0:18:05- Chunky?
0:18:05 > 0:18:06- Chunky?- - Norwegian?
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- They are a gentle reminder - of a bygone age.
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- She's been biting her nails - too much!
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- This was - the University of Wales Registry.
0:18:21 > 0:18:24- There is something rather cute...
0:18:24 > 0:18:29- ..about a small, - perfectly-formed building...
0:18:29 > 0:18:33- ..being flanked on both sides - by far larger buildings.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40- This building - was originally the Welsh Office.
0:18:40 > 0:18:44- It was actually the Board of Health - when it was built in the 1930s.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48- The Welsh Office, - as it was known at the time...
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- ..was built behind it in the 1980s.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- It's a strange building because - it looks like a defence structure.
0:18:56 > 0:19:01- Somebody said that it's a perfect - example of bureaucracy under siege.
0:19:01 > 0:19:03- But when I look at it...
0:19:03 > 0:19:08- ..I see the contrast between it - and the Senedd in Cardiff Bay.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- The Senedd - has an outlook on the world...
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- ..whereas this building - is introspective.
0:19:14 > 0:19:18- I'd say it highlights the difference - between Wales now...
0:19:18 > 0:19:20- ..and Wales back then.
0:19:38 > 0:19:41- These days, only the wealthy - live in Flemingston.
0:19:41 > 0:19:46- What would the village's most famous - and poorest son think of that?
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- You couldn't come - to the Vale of Glamorgan...
0:19:53 > 0:19:58- ..without paying homage to - the influential Edward Williams.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- Or Iolo Morganwg, - as he is better known.
0:20:04 > 0:20:06- Recognized - as the father of the Gorsedd...
0:20:07 > 0:20:10- ..he is buried somewhere - in the graveyard over there.
0:20:11 > 0:20:16- This memorial plaque was dedicated - to him 25 years after his death.
0:20:37 > 0:20:42- Situated three kilometres from - Flemingston is Old Beaupre Castle...
0:20:42 > 0:20:46- ..where 18 generations - of the Bassett family lived.
0:20:48 > 0:20:53- Richard Bassett built - Old Beaupre Castle in 1586.
0:20:53 > 0:20:55- He was a successful man.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59- Although the Bassetts - were newcomers to the Vale...
0:20:59 > 0:21:02- ..the family stayed for generations.
0:21:13 > 0:21:18- Despite the beauty of this - 16th-century mansion house...
0:21:18 > 0:21:22- ..there are plenty of mansions - in this area of Glamorgan.
0:21:23 > 0:21:28- But not one of them shares this - stupendous architectural feature.
0:21:28 > 0:21:30- The Renaissance porch.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- This is called a Renaissance - porch...
0:22:00 > 0:22:04- ..because of its classical - design features from that period.
0:22:05 > 0:22:10- It also shows the family's desire - to belong to European society.
0:22:11 > 0:22:15- "Better death than dishonour" - was the family's motto.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- A motto that was later adopted - by the Welsh Regiment.
0:22:20 > 0:22:26- There are wonderful examples - of the Doric, Ionic and Corinthian.
0:22:26 > 0:22:31- The classical tradition at its most - appealing in the Vale of Glamorgan.
0:22:31 > 0:22:35- This storeyed porch - was erected in 1600.
0:22:35 > 0:22:37- It was made in Bristol...
0:22:37 > 0:22:42- ..then the parts were exported - across the water and assembled here.
0:22:42 > 0:22:47- That explains why it doesn't connect - to the main building.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- It also gives the impression - that the Bassetts...
0:22:51 > 0:22:55- ..were desperate to become part - of this sophisticated society.
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- This is the first of its kind - in Wales...
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- ..and there are very few left - in Britain.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- Farewell to the architectural gem - of Bassett's Vale.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- And thank you.
0:23:33 > 0:23:36- S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:36 > 0:23:37- .