0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- 888
0:00:14 > 0:00:16- 888
0:00:21 > 0:00:25- In this programme, - an engaging museum in Presteigne...
0:00:26 > 0:00:29- ..an intricate rood screen - in Llananno...
0:00:30 > 0:00:33- ..neo-Gothic splendour in Trefeca...
0:00:33 > 0:00:37- ..and The Pales as seen - through Marian Delyth's lens.
0:00:38 > 0:00:42- But we begin near Llangorse, - in the shadow of the Brecon Beacons.
0:00:47 > 0:00:50- This place epitomizes the spirit...
0:00:51 > 0:00:54- ..of the book Wales: 100 Places - To See Before You Die.
0:01:00 > 0:01:03- We're on Llangorse Lake, of course.
0:01:03 > 0:01:08- This is Wales's only crannog, - inspired by the Irish tradition.
0:01:09 > 0:01:12- A crannog is an artificial island - in shallow water...
0:01:12 > 0:01:16- ..made up of brush, - stone or timber mounds.
0:01:16 > 0:01:20- The islets were minor fortifications - surrounded by water.
0:01:20 > 0:01:26- Gerald of Wales - mentions the lake teeming with fish.
0:01:26 > 0:01:28- There are swans here too.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32- A contemporary of Dafydd ap Gwilym's - dedicated a cywydd to them.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35- "Llangorse Lake - has them in its possession."
0:01:35 > 0:01:39- Be careful of that swan. - You're about to whack him or her.
0:01:45 > 0:01:50- Does that reconstruction resemble - the crannog's original structure?
0:01:50 > 0:01:52- Yes, apparently so.
0:01:53 > 0:01:55- It was built in 2004...
0:01:56 > 0:02:01- ..as an example of the buildings - that would have been on the crannog.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle - from AD 916...
0:02:14 > 0:02:16- ..records that Ethelfleda...
0:02:17 > 0:02:19- ..the daughter - of Alfred the Great...
0:02:20 > 0:02:23- ..brought an army here - to capture the king and queen...
0:02:24 > 0:02:26- ..from this very crannog.
0:02:27 > 0:02:29- Brycheiniog was left reeling.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32- The fact that this area - is part of Deheubarth...
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- ..is outlined in the memoirs - of Gerald of Wales.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- The birds of Llangorse Lake...
0:02:39 > 0:02:43- ..were summoned - to serenade the Earl of Hereford.
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- But they wouldn't sing for him, - only to the heir of Deheubarth.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51- The fact the birds - haven't sung for you today...
0:02:52 > 0:02:54- ..reflects your ignobility!
0:03:10 > 0:03:15- What was the purpose - of this collection of buildings?
0:03:15 > 0:03:18- Was it for religious instruction?
0:03:18 > 0:03:21- They are remarkable, - built on the banks of the lake.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- Llangasty Tal-y-llyn...
0:03:25 > 0:03:28- ..is the creation - of Robert Raikes from Hull.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- While at university in Oxford...
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- ..he was influenced - by the Tractarian Movement.
0:03:35 > 0:03:38- Above all else, - he wanted cohesion...
0:03:38 > 0:03:42- ..between the act of worship - and the process of studying.
0:03:42 > 0:03:48- So he erected this church - and the schoolhouse next door.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09- We're in front of the altar...
0:04:09 > 0:04:12- ..at St Gastyn's church.
0:04:12 > 0:04:17- It's a very noble building - and far from ostentatious.
0:04:18 > 0:04:20- It's simple yet bold in colour.
0:04:20 > 0:04:23- Most churches in the vicinity...
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- ..are rather drab in comparison.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- It's a classic example - of the neo-Gothic.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32- Its appearance is indicative...
0:04:32 > 0:04:38- ..of 14th-century parish churches, - when Catholicism reigned supreme.
0:04:40 > 0:04:46- It's not highbrow, - but it is pretty and peaceful.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- It's a symbol - of Robert Raikes's desire...
0:04:50 > 0:04:54- ..to introduce a thing of beauty - and holiness to these parts.
0:05:15 > 0:05:19- We're in Llansantffraed graveyard - in the Usk Valley.
0:05:19 > 0:05:25- It's one of my favourite places, - partly because my wife is from here.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27- One of her ancestors is buried here.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- I'm here to see the grave - of my great-great-great-great...
0:05:32 > 0:05:36- ..great-great-great-great- - grandfather-in-law!
0:05:36 > 0:05:38- Here it is.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- Henricus Vaughan, the Silurist.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- He had a low opinion of himself.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- "Servus inutilis"
0:05:47 > 0:05:49- That means an idle servant.
0:05:50 > 0:05:52- "Peccator maximus"
0:05:52 > 0:05:55- The biggest sinner - lies buried here.
0:05:55 > 0:05:58- Glory. Forgiveness.
0:05:58 > 0:06:00- That's a nice epitaph.
0:06:01 > 0:06:02- Yes, it is.
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- He was one of the best poets - of the 17th century.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- He spoke Welsh - but preferred to write in English.
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- He was related - to the Vaughan family of Mercia.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- I'm privileged to be related to him - through marriage.
0:06:28 > 0:06:31- Presteigne is built - on a tongue of land...
0:06:31 > 0:06:37- ..that protrudes into England - to the east of Offa's Dyke.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- The town was reclaimed - by Gruffudd ap Llywelyn.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51- It's nice to wander the streets - of this prestigious town.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- "The last post office in Wales."
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- "The first post office in Wales."
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- Hm!
0:07:14 > 0:07:16- The courthouse - and Judge's Lodging...
0:07:17 > 0:07:20- ..is Presteigne's - most noble building.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23- But it's also a temple - to the power of the law.
0:07:32 > 0:07:37- This building was erected - in the centre of Presteigne in 1830.
0:07:37 > 0:07:39- It was a kind of one-stop shop.
0:07:39 > 0:07:41- There was a courtroom here...
0:07:43 > 0:07:46- ..prison cells beneath the court...
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- ..and a residence for the judge - while he was in town.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- It's what makes this museum - so appealing.
0:07:54 > 0:07:56- It captures every aspect.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37- The success of this museum...
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- ..is partly to do with the fact - that you can touch everything.
0:08:42 > 0:08:46- I can open this cabinet - and read the documents and books.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49- There are plenty to choose from.
0:08:50 > 0:08:51- Isn't that good?
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- This is the judge's sitting room.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- This is where he'd come to relax...
0:08:58 > 0:09:02- ..play the piano or peruse - the plentiful reading matter.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04- He'd take his afternoon tea here.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- He would have probably worn - white gloves back then.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32- Presteigne cemetery - has a strange memorial...
0:09:32 > 0:09:35- ..to one of life's injustices.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- Mary Morgan was executed - for killing her own baby.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43- "Rous'd to a first sense of guilt - and remorse...
0:09:43 > 0:09:46- "..by the eloquent - and humane exertions...
0:09:46 > 0:09:50- "..of her benevolent Judge, - Mr Justice Hardinge...
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- "..she underwent the Sentence of - the Law with unfeigned repentance...
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- "..and a furvent hope of forgiveness - from a redeeming intercessor."
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- She may have been - brought to justice...
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- ..but the locals felt - that justice had failed her.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- They laid this headstone - at her feet.
0:10:14 > 0:10:16- She was only 17 years old.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- "He that is without sin among you...
0:10:19 > 0:10:21- "..let him first - cast a stone at her."
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- This is a reference - to Mr Justice Hardinge.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- It's remarkable to think - that even in 1805...
0:10:28 > 0:10:31- ..local people - felt strongly enough...
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- ..about the injustice - of her situation...
0:10:34 > 0:10:36- ..that they laid this stone.
0:10:48 > 0:10:49- .
0:10:53 > 0:10:53- 888
0:10:53 > 0:10:55- 888- - 888
0:11:03 > 0:11:07- I believe we're here to discuss - The Pales, as it's called.
0:11:07 > 0:11:12- Yes, but I've always - pronounced it 'palais'.
0:11:12 > 0:11:18- John explains that its name - derives from palisade...
0:11:21 > 0:11:25- ..referring to what was built - around the meeting house.
0:11:25 > 0:11:30- Like many Quaker meeting places, - it's in a remote location.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35- You get the impression they were - looking for a quiet retreat...
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- ..at the far end of the valley.
0:11:39 > 0:11:43- You become instantly aware - of the solitude.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- There's a tranquillity about it.
0:11:46 > 0:11:51- Regardless of a person's faith - or lack of it...
0:11:53 > 0:11:56- ..you can't help but feel moved...
0:11:56 > 0:11:59- ..by the peaceful nature - of the place.
0:12:08 > 0:12:13- How do you capture that tranquillity - in a photograph?
0:12:13 > 0:12:16- I was captivated - by the place itself.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18- I wouldn't say I was entranced...
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- ..but I certainly felt - in a heightened state.
0:12:22 > 0:12:24- I simply sat in the tranquillity.
0:12:27 > 0:12:32- I was conscious - of the Quakers' philosophy.
0:12:32 > 0:12:34- It was presented to us...
0:12:37 > 0:12:39- ..in Waldo's literature.
0:12:39 > 0:12:43- A copy of Paham Yr Wyf Yn Grynwr - (Why I Am A Quaker)...
0:12:43 > 0:12:46- ..can be found in the meeting house.
0:12:48 > 0:12:53- Marion Eames's novel, Y Stafell - Ddirgel, also springs to mind...
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- ..as does - the television adaptation of it...
0:12:57 > 0:13:00- ..which introduced - the Quakers' philosophy...
0:13:00 > 0:13:06- ..and their history in that area, - to a wider audience.
0:13:12 > 0:13:17- I was also struck by minor details - such as the collection box.
0:13:18 > 0:13:21- It was just a small item - in a corner...
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- ..but I decided to feature - the photograph in the book.
0:13:27 > 0:13:33- I also thought about - the Quakers' central philosophy...
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- ..of the inner light.
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- I used daylight - and the effect of that light...
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- ..to create an atmosphere - in the photographs.
0:13:46 > 0:13:49- I wanted people to be drawn there...
0:13:49 > 0:13:54- ..so that they too could experience - that peace and tranquillity.
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- Llananno church is between - Llandrindod Wells and Newtown.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- It's barely visible from the road.
0:14:20 > 0:14:23- But behind - this unremarkable facade...
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- ..is one of Wales's - most beautiful treasures.
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- Glanmor Williams compares - Llananno's rood screen...
0:15:10 > 0:15:14- ..with the world's - most precious jewellery.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- It's as impressive as any - of Dafydd ap Gwilym's cywyddau.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Although the woodcarvers' names - are unknown...
0:15:22 > 0:15:26- ..we know that they came from - a school of carvers in Newtown.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- The style is reminiscent - of Celtic woodcraft.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- The looped design - runs from one end to the other.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- If we look closely - at the carvings...
0:15:39 > 0:15:44- ..Jesus Christ, the apostles, - the disciples and the prophets...
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- ..are in keeping with the style - of the 19th century...
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- ..when the church was restored - around this screen.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54- Holding up the parapet...
0:15:54 > 0:15:59- ..is an example - of 15th or 16th century carving.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01- It's of an amphisbaena.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- That's a mythical - two-headed serpent.
0:16:05 > 0:16:08- It's eating its way - through the vine...
0:16:09 > 0:16:11- ..the symbol of God and Christ.
0:16:12 > 0:16:15- The vine runs all the way - to the other side...
0:16:15 > 0:16:18- ..where there is - a second amphisbaena.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- It represents Satan, - eating his way...
0:16:22 > 0:16:24- ..through the sacred vine.
0:16:25 > 0:16:30- While I was standing outside, I said - that the church was unremarkable...
0:16:30 > 0:16:32- ..but what I meant was ordinary.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- It's the interior - that is unremarkable.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37- That is its charm.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41- It doesn't try to compete - with this incredible screen.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44- It almost complements it.
0:16:48 > 0:16:53- One of the most prominent British - poets wrote a poem about Llananno.
0:16:55 > 0:16:58- "So delicately - does the light enter my soul...
0:16:58 > 0:17:02- "..from the serene presence - that waits for me till I come next."
0:17:02 > 0:17:05- None other than RS Thomas.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- It wasn't unusual - to have to wait hours in Talgarth...
0:17:25 > 0:17:29- ..for an enormous lorry - to turn the corner, or not.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- The arrival of a new bypass...
0:17:33 > 0:17:38- ..has restored peace - to this 14th-century tower house...
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- ..and St Gwendoline's Church, - of course.
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- Apart from St David's, - I can't think of another place...
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- ..from which so much influence - has stemmed....
0:17:54 > 0:17:57- ..in terms of the history - of religion in Wales.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- This is the birthplace - of Calvinistic Methodism.
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- What kind of country - would Wales be without it?
0:18:05 > 0:18:07- A very happy one, I'd imagine.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- "You have botched our flesh," - wrote RS Thomas.
0:18:12 > 0:18:17- It's here that Howell Harris - had his religious conversion.
0:18:17 > 0:18:19- So the story has it.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24- The vicar, Pryce Davies, - was preaching.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- It would have been - Howell Harris's parish church.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31- He would have had - his conversion inside.
0:18:31 > 0:18:36- He hadn't been ordained, so he - couldn't preach in the churches.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40- However, he was allowed to preach - in the open air.
0:18:40 > 0:18:43- It was in this graveyard in 1737...
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- ..during a sermon - by Howell Harris...
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..that William Williams Pantycelyn - was converted.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- It was here that Harris - and Williams's renown began.
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- "Near the altar - lie the remains of Howell Harris.
0:19:02 > 0:19:06- "Having tasted grace, - he resolved to declare to others...
0:19:07 > 0:19:09- "..what God had done for his soul.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13- "He was the first - itinerant preacher of redemption...
0:19:13 > 0:19:16- "..in this period of revival - in England and Wales.
0:19:17 > 0:19:19- "An indefatigable servant of God...
0:19:19 > 0:19:23- "..and faithful member - of the Church of England."
0:19:23 > 0:19:26- It's entirely in English, - apart from the ending.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31- "They that be wise shall shine as - the brightness of the firmament...
0:19:31 > 0:19:35- "..and they that turn many - to righteousness...
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- "..as the stars for ever and ever."
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- "Why did you spend all your days - creating a large monastery...
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- "..when King Henry - pulled more than a thousand down?"
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- That was William Williams - Pantycelyn's view of Trefeca...
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- ..the home of Howell Harris.
0:20:00 > 0:20:02- It's now a lay training centre.
0:20:04 > 0:20:09- By 1752, he had established - some kind of monastery...
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- ..or spiritual commune - which he referred to as The Family.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16- Families lived - under a strict regime.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22- Inscribed above the middle door...
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- ..is the Methodist Revival's motto.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33- "The beginning of wisdom - is the fear of the Lord."
0:20:36 > 0:20:42- The neo-Gothic period is considered - to have begun in 1750...
0:20:42 > 0:20:46- ..when Horace Walpole - built Strawberry Hill.
0:20:46 > 0:20:51- Two years later, neo-Gothicism - reached rural Brecknockshire.
0:20:51 > 0:20:55- We mustn't think of Howell Harris - as a parochial fellow.
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- He was constantly - back and forth to London.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01- He corresponded regularly.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03- He knew prominent figures.
0:21:05 > 0:21:09- Howell Harris's belongings are kept - in a museum within the building.
0:21:12 > 0:21:18- Between his conversion in 1735 - and beginning The Family in 1752...
0:21:18 > 0:21:22- ..he spent the entire time - on preaching missions.
0:21:22 > 0:21:24- He drew a map of his journey.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- Here in the centre - is his home in Trefeca.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- In the north, - he visited Caernarfon and Bangor.
0:21:34 > 0:21:37- He went to Llangeitho and Tregaron - in the west...
0:21:38 > 0:21:43- In the east was London, - with Swansea and Neath in the south.
0:21:43 > 0:21:46- He travelled on horseback.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- He would have been away - for months on end.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53- I don't want to labour the point...
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- ..but although this map - is written in English...
0:21:56 > 0:21:59- ..he would have preached in Welsh.
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- He could have preached in Welsh...
0:22:02 > 0:22:06- ..but I doubt it would have been - his first language.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10- Let's not let our thoughts - on the language's prominence...
0:22:10 > 0:22:12- ..cloud 18th-century minds.
0:22:13 > 0:22:16- All they were interested in - was saving souls!
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- There's a quote in his diary.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22- "Last night, - I had a temptation to laugh.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25- "I resisted it, of course."
0:22:28 > 0:22:31- People across the oceans...
0:22:32 > 0:22:35- ..had heard about his fondness - for his home in Trefeca.
0:22:36 > 0:22:38- In Nashville, Tennessee...
0:22:39 > 0:22:44- ..there's an institute called - the Trevecca Nazarene University.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48- They've heard about Trefeca - even in Tennessee!
0:23:10 > 0:23:12- S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones