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0:00:21 > 0:00:25Today, we visit Neath to focus on industry, rugby and religion.
0:00:25 > 0:00:31The contemporary and the Romanesque are both in evidence in Ewenny.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34Marian Delyth seeks a lost village.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37And we observe the splendour of Margam Park...
0:00:38 > 0:00:40..and its octagonal chapel.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43But our journey begins in Llantwit Major.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01We're standing on the banks of the River Colhuw.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05What's its significance in relation to Llantwit Major?
0:01:05 > 0:01:09- It's one of the most significant - places in western Europe.
0:01:09 > 0:01:12- We're standing near the estuary.
0:01:13 > 0:01:18- Religious leaders from Cornwall, - Brittany, Ireland and Scotland...
0:01:18 > 0:01:19- ..all came here...
0:01:20 > 0:01:25- ..and walked through this valley - to seek the wisdom of Illtud.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- If we're searching - for the axis of Christianity...
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- ..in terms of Celtic countries...
0:01:32 > 0:01:35- ..it's the estuary - of the River Colhuw.
0:01:46 > 0:01:49The Roman influences on Llantwit Major...
0:01:50 > 0:01:52..and the importance of its waterways...
0:01:53 > 0:01:57..led to the development of Christianity in the Celtic world.
0:02:00 > 0:02:03- I think we can safely say - that we are standing...
0:02:03 > 0:02:09- ..on what would have been the - foundations of St Illtud's Church...
0:02:09 > 0:02:12- ..before AD 600.
0:02:12 > 0:02:15- Buildings during the Middle Ages...
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- ..were erected on top - of what was already here.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23- This could have been a wooden hut - during Illtud's time...
0:02:23 > 0:02:28- ..and the monks would have lived - in huts surrounding it.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- But what we're seeing now - belongs to Norman times...
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- ..when the Vale of Glamorgan - was under their rule.
0:02:35 > 0:02:38- The Galilee Chapel - is situated at the rear.
0:02:39 > 0:02:41- That is the eastern chapel.
0:02:41 > 0:02:45- It was possibly the original church, - dating back to 1100.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- The body of the church - is from the 13th century...
0:02:49 > 0:02:52- ..while the chancel - belongs to a later period.
0:02:52 > 0:02:57- It's a long church and the largest - parish church in Glamorgan.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- There is an abundance - of memorial stones...
0:03:00 > 0:03:02- ..and interesting masonry here.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- The most interesting - is the Jesse Niche carved stone.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- There's a carving - of a prone Jesse...
0:03:12 > 0:03:15- ..with a tree - growing from his ribs.
0:03:16 > 0:03:21- His descendants ascend the tree, - with Christ at the top.
0:03:21 > 0:03:23- It's incredibly neat.
0:03:23 > 0:03:28- During the Middle Ages, the 13th - and 14th centuries and beyond...
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- ..churches were adorned - with painted murals.
0:03:33 > 0:03:36- The Puritans whitewashed them all.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- But when they restored the church - during the 19th century...
0:03:40 > 0:03:44- ..they found traces of paintings - from the Middle Ages.
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- It's a very interesting building.
0:03:53 > 0:03:59- One could argue that Llantwit Major - is more significant than St David's.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- Dewi, Teilo and the other saints - came after Illtud's lifetime.
0:04:04 > 0:04:07- Illtud set the wheel in motion.
0:04:07 > 0:04:12- Christianity took root in Wales - here in Llantwit Major.
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- Without this place, our history - would have been very different.
0:04:24 > 0:04:29The church houses an interesting collection of Celtic stones.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33The 9th-century Houelt Cross is the most important.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37Hywel laid this cross in memory of his father, Rhys.
0:04:37 > 0:04:41The kings of Glamorgan still considered the place holy...
0:04:42 > 0:04:45..four centuries after Illtud's time.
0:04:48 > 0:04:52The town hall is worthy of its position on the square.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55The pubs are also mentioned in John's book.
0:04:55 > 0:05:00But we're heading to an unusual place of worship nearby.
0:05:08 > 0:05:12I can't think of many chapels with an open fire and no electricity.
0:05:13 > 0:05:16- This is certainly true - of Bethesda'r Fro...
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- ..located in the vicinity - of Llantwit Major.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22- We've already seen one church...
0:05:23 > 0:05:26- ..dating back - to the old Celtic tradition.
0:05:26 > 0:05:29- This chapel was founded in 1807...
0:05:29 > 0:05:32- ..as a result of the feud...
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- ..between Methodists and others.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38- Thomas William founded the chapel.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- This is one of the few chapels - of the early 19th century...
0:05:43 > 0:05:47- ..that still looks as it did - when it was first built...
0:05:47 > 0:05:49- ..with this open fire...
0:05:49 > 0:05:53- ..positioned where the pulpit - would be in other chapels.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- It also lacks electricity - and other creature comforts.
0:05:59 > 0:06:03- Thomas William was one of Wales's - most prominent hymnists.
0:06:03 > 0:06:08- The original hymn book kept here - contains this hymn.
0:06:08 > 0:06:13- "O had I the wings of a dove - How soon I would wander away
0:06:14 > 0:06:18- "To gaze from Mount Nebo I'd love - On realms that are fairer than day."
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- It was written by Thomas William.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36It may be a rather unfamiliar area...
0:06:36 > 0:06:40..but we've come to realize it's a devoutly Christian area.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- Iorwerth Peate said it succinctly.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- "God, in his infinite wisdom, - created a garden...
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- "..between land and sea - where the paths...
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- "..lead the ordinary souls - to the place...
0:06:52 > 0:06:57- "..where the waters of Bethesda flow - amid the beauty of Eglwys Brewys."
0:07:17 > 0:07:22We've used the word Romanesque many times during this series.
0:07:22 > 0:07:28We've seen examples of Romanesque arches in Newport, Chepstow...
0:07:28 > 0:07:30..Llandaff and St Clears.
0:07:30 > 0:07:35But this building is Romanesque from its foundations to its roof.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39Ewenny Priory in the Vale of Glamorgan.
0:07:57 > 0:08:02There is a representation here of all the priory's former owners.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05This is the tomb of Maurice de Londres...
0:08:05 > 0:08:08..son of Gwilym, who commissioned the church.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11Then there's the tomb of Edward Carne...
0:08:12 > 0:08:15..a member of the Carne family, the second owners.
0:08:15 > 0:08:20They bought it from Henry VIII in 1546 for just over 700.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23There was nothing unusual in that...
0:08:23 > 0:08:27..following the dissolution of the monasteries.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29But Edward Carne was a devout Catholic.
0:08:30 > 0:08:32You could say he was covering all bases!
0:08:33 > 0:08:35They were here for 200 years...
0:08:35 > 0:08:38..until the death of John, the final heir...
0:08:39 > 0:08:42..aged 15 years, 10 months and 11 days.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45The fact they recorded his age to the exact day...
0:08:46 > 0:08:48..is testament to the sadness felt.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52It reads, "Here lies Ewenny's hope, Ewenny's pride.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54"Death having seized him...
0:08:54 > 0:08:57"..lingered, loath to be the ruin of this worthy family."
0:08:58 > 0:09:02Hot on the heels of the Carnes came the Turbervilles.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06Memorial stones in their honour adorn every wall.
0:09:06 > 0:09:08They remain here to this day.
0:09:30 > 0:09:32The spiritual tone of the priory...
0:09:32 > 0:09:36..is bolstered by a distinctive artistic style.
0:09:36 > 0:09:41The contemporary glass screen is by Alexander Beleschenko.
0:09:43 > 0:09:47The artist JMW Turner visited the priory in 1795.
0:09:53 > 0:09:59Nearby, the River Ewenny runs past Ogmore Castle.
0:09:59 > 0:10:04It was home to William de Londres, who commissioned Ewenny Church.
0:10:16 > 0:10:20For centuries, the area has been famed for its potteries.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23But since the 19th century, only 18 of them...
0:10:23 > 0:10:27..have used the generic term Ewenny Potteries.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30Only two of them currently trade under that name.
0:10:30 > 0:10:34This pottery's history can be traced back to 1610.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38This cabinet displays pieces that span the centuries.
0:10:58 > 0:11:03"Hath not the potter power over the clay, of the same lump...
0:11:03 > 0:11:08"..to make one vessel unto honour, and another unto dishonour?"
0:11:08 > 0:11:12There's a third way, of course - that you make a mess of both!
0:11:12 > 0:11:15I suspect that fate awaits me!
0:11:15 > 0:11:18First, I have to wet my hands.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27Observe the potter at work!
0:11:32 > 0:11:32- .
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0:11:43 > 0:11:47This week, photographer Marian Delyth has the difficult task...
0:11:48 > 0:11:51..of capturing the invisible in Kenfig near Port Talbot.
0:11:51 > 0:11:57In his book, John refers to a lost city beneath the sand in Kenfig.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59Is there anything left of it these days?
0:12:00 > 0:12:02- I have to admit, - I'd never been there.
0:12:05 > 0:12:10- I was captivated - by the subject of a lost city.
0:12:10 > 0:12:12- John talks of a castle...
0:12:13 > 0:12:17- ..and a town - founded in the 11th century.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- The dunes have engulfed what was - a city of 1,000 inhabitants.
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- As an author, - John has the advantage...
0:12:31 > 0:12:35- ..of being able to create pictures - out of words.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38- As a photographer, - I deal with what is visible.
0:12:39 > 0:12:41- I couldn't see anything at first.
0:12:44 > 0:12:49This image doesn't fit the brief of a civilization lost to the dunes.
0:12:49 > 0:12:52- No! This was taken - underneath the motorway.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- I didn't include this image - in the book, by the way.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02- When I photograph - historical and romantic settings...
0:13:03 > 0:13:07- ..I'm always brought back - to the present...
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- ..by images like this - of graffiti and so on.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- This is the traditional image - of the castle.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20- It doesn't really resemble - a castle, does it?
0:13:20 > 0:13:23No, it's not at all castle-like!
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- It certainly doesn't show - how close it is to the motorway...
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- ..as this photograph demonstrates.
0:13:30 > 0:13:36- I discovered one or two images - I hadn't seen of the castle.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- They're perhaps more in keeping...
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- ..with what we assume - is the castle's architecture.
0:13:46 > 0:13:48- It's situated in dense undergrowth.
0:13:49 > 0:13:52- Thickets and trees - have grown from the ruins.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- It isn't just the sand dunes.
0:13:56 > 0:13:59- Nature is trying its best - to conceal the place.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13- Eventually, I decided - that the best image for Kenfig...
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- ..would be this wide angle - of the sand dunes in the evening...
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- ..with Port Talbot - in the background.
0:14:21 > 0:14:27- I hope that the image, - together with John's text...
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- ..conveys a fitting atmosphere...
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- ..so that people can imagine - walking over this lost city.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47In the book, there is a chapter dedicated to Margam.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51There is plenty to see, apart from its majestic abbey.
0:14:51 > 0:14:56It is a Cistercian church belonging to Margam monastery.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00This is only part of the church - the rest has disappeared.
0:15:00 > 0:15:06It is the only fully-functioning Cistercian church in Britain.
0:15:07 > 0:15:10There are two families associated with this abbey.
0:15:10 > 0:15:14It was bought by the Mansels in the 16th century.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16They are buried on that side.
0:15:16 > 0:15:21It later passed to the Talbots, who are buried on this side.
0:15:23 > 0:15:27Sir Rice Mansel had strong affiliations with Henry VIII.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31He set about making this abbey his home.
0:15:31 > 0:15:33The Mansel line ended in 1730...
0:15:34 > 0:15:36..and it was inherited by Thomas Talbot.
0:15:37 > 0:15:42The most striking tomb is that of Theodore Mansel Talbot.
0:15:42 > 0:15:46The last of the Talbots, he inherited the family's wealth.
0:15:46 > 0:15:48He died in 1876 with no heir.
0:16:01 > 0:16:07Work on this remarkable residence in Margam Park ended in 1836.
0:16:07 > 0:16:12It was commissioned by Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot...
0:16:12 > 0:16:15..a 33-year-old MP who would soon become...
0:16:15 > 0:16:19..one of the wealthiest men outside the House of Lords.
0:16:19 > 0:16:22The house was designed by Thomas Hopper.
0:16:23 > 0:16:27He also designed Penrhyn Castle, believe it or not.
0:16:28 > 0:16:31They are contrasting designs, of course.
0:16:31 > 0:16:37Whereas this is neo-Gothic Tudor, Penrhyn Castle is mock-Romanesque.
0:16:37 > 0:16:42This place created such a stir that it attracted noble visitors.
0:16:49 > 0:16:54Among them was Edward VII, when he was Prince of Wales.
0:16:54 > 0:16:58Photographer Henry Fox Talbot was a frequent visitor.
0:16:58 > 0:17:02In 1802, Lord Nelson himself visited the Orangery...
0:17:03 > 0:17:06..the longest building of its kind in Britain.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16You would have thought that the mansion's civilized residents...
0:17:16 > 0:17:21..would have shown more respect for the estate's ancient buildings.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25This was the monks' cloisters that served as their library...
0:17:26 > 0:17:29..but the castle's nobility kept their coal here.
0:17:42 > 0:17:47Our journey to Margam Park ends in Beulah Chapel or Round Chapel.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51As interesting as our journey has been...
0:17:51 > 0:17:56..it hasn't been as exciting as this octagonal chapel's journey.
0:17:56 > 0:18:00It was once situated in Groes, two miles closer to Margam Abbey.
0:18:01 > 0:18:04But when the motorway was built...
0:18:04 > 0:18:09..it was taken down, stone by stone, and moved to a safer place...
0:18:09 > 0:18:12..on the outskirts of Tai-bach, Port Talbot.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28This chapter is dedicated to Neath.
0:18:28 > 0:18:33What's its significance in terms of South Wales's industrial towns?
0:18:33 > 0:18:37- We tend to overlook Neath - since the bypass was built.
0:18:37 > 0:18:41- Sadly, there's no need - to go through Neath any more.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46- In the Middle Ages, it had a castle, - a port and a monastery.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- By the end of the 17th century...
0:18:49 > 0:18:55- ..it could be argued - that Glamorgan's heavy industries...
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- ..especially iron and copper, - began here in Neath.
0:18:59 > 0:19:04But the scale of these buildings and in particular this church...
0:19:04 > 0:19:06..suggests it was an affluent area.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08- ..suggests it was an affluent area. - Yes, it was very prosperous.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- This church is testament - to that wealth.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- I don't know of any other church - built in the 19th century...
0:19:16 > 0:19:21- ..that is as wide and constructed - entirely of red and black bricks.
0:19:21 > 0:19:23- The roof is incredibly high.
0:19:24 > 0:19:26- The chancel itself is very noble.
0:19:27 > 0:19:32- There is also an imposing - clock tower built above it...
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- ..which gives Neath - a certain status.
0:19:35 > 0:19:40- I don't know of another place - with such a striking clock tower.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42- It dominates the town.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45- Long live Neath, I say!
0:19:55 > 0:19:59Why is this room at Neath's Castle Hotel so significant?
0:19:59 > 0:20:04- This is where the Welsh Rugby Union - was founded in 1881.
0:20:04 > 0:20:08- Apparently, the room - hasn't changed at all since then.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12- It looks exactly as it did - 130 years ago.
0:20:13 > 0:20:14- For many people...
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- ..rugby is what defines - their Welshness and identity.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22- One could argue that this room...
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- ..is more significant - to many Welsh people...
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- ..than the National Library, - St David's Cathedral...
0:20:30 > 0:20:32- ..or even the Senedd.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- This is central to their identity.
0:20:36 > 0:20:41It's interesting to note that Neath wasn't one of the founding members.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- No, they just saw the Castle Hotel - as a convenient place to meet.
0:20:45 > 0:20:50- I can imagine them saying, "Let's - establish a Welsh rugby union."
0:20:50 > 0:20:52- It was probably - the kind of meeting...
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- ..where they took a vote - and then went to the bar.
0:20:56 > 0:21:00- Gareth Williams argues - that rugby was perfect...
0:21:00 > 0:21:04- ..for Wales's industrial communities - at the time.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- He argues that the harder - or more physical your work is...
0:21:10 > 0:21:14- ..the more physical - the sport you want.
0:21:14 > 0:21:19- He says those who are idle at work - play cricket in their spare time...
0:21:19 > 0:21:21- ..but those who work hard - play rugby.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- These may be - Neath's most striking landmarks.
0:21:29 > 0:21:36- The blast furnaces built to serve - the Neath Abbey Ironworks.
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- These particular furnaces - date back to 1793.
0:21:40 > 0:21:45- They are the tallest such furnaces - in the world.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47- This one is 65 feet high.
0:21:47 > 0:21:51- They're overgrown with ivy - and difficult to reach.
0:21:51 > 0:21:55- But I hear there is already - a project afoot...
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- ..to make them more accessible, - which is an exciting prospect.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08Neath Abbey was established in 1129 by Richard de Granville...
0:22:09 > 0:22:13..as a monastery for the Savigniac order.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17They united with the Cistercian order in 1147.
0:22:18 > 0:22:24Following the dissolution in 1539, the abbey's stones were pillaged...
0:22:24 > 0:22:27..to build a mansion for new owner Richard Williams.
0:22:28 > 0:22:32Historian John Leland called it the fairest abbey in Wales.
0:22:33 > 0:22:38Although few of its ruins remain, one remarkable feature has survived.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45This door weighs a ton.
0:22:45 > 0:22:47Goodness me!
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- This is one of the abbey's - surviving features.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- This is the dormitory undercroft.
0:22:54 > 0:22:58- It dates back to the 13th century.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- There's a certain purity...
0:23:01 > 0:23:05- ..belonging to the roof - and pillars holding it up.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08- There is also a variety of tiles...
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- ..similar to those - at Strata Florida...
0:23:11 > 0:23:13- ..and the occasional tomb.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17- This is one of Neath's - magnificent buildings.
0:23:17 > 0:23:20- It's certainly worth a visit...
0:23:20 > 0:23:25- ..because this is one of the most - interesting regions in Wales.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27Amen!
0:23:48 > 0:23:50S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:50 > 0:23:51- .