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0:00:21 > 0:00:23- Welcome to 100 Lle.
0:00:23 > 0:00:27- Our journey begins - above the River Dee.
0:00:27 > 0:00:32- This week, we follow the Dee - to Llangollen...
0:00:32 > 0:00:36- ..and to Penllyn and Bala - with Marian Delyth.
0:00:37 > 0:00:39- We go underground - in Blaenau Ffestiniog...
0:00:39 > 0:00:42- ..and explore - a pretty Welsh market town.
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- First, we visit a newly-appointed - UNESCO World Heritage Site.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.
0:00:53 > 0:00:55- Work on the bridge was completed...
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- ..as part of the failed attempt - to create a canal...
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- ..linking the rivers Mersey - and Severn.
0:01:02 > 0:01:05- Despite its failure, - the bridge is a testament...
0:01:06 > 0:01:08- ..to Thomas Telford's vision.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- There's no better place - to see Pontcysyllte...
0:01:12 > 0:01:15- ..than here, underneath it.
0:01:16 > 0:01:21- We can truly appreciate the might - and magnitude of the aqueduct.
0:01:21 > 0:01:23- It is utterly remarkable.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27- The pillars - are embedded in the River Dee...
0:01:27 > 0:01:31- ..and climb 35 metres - up to the trough holding the canal.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- It stands 116 feet high.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- The pillars taper from eight metres - wide at the bottom...
0:01:38 > 0:01:40- ..to five metres wide at the top.
0:01:40 > 0:01:45- It's very skilfully crafted. - The masonry work is striking too.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- There are 20 pillars in total - and 19 arches.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- Each arch is interconnected...
0:01:52 > 0:01:56- ..and soldered with molten lead, - sugar and Welsh flannel.
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- They have lasted - more than 200 years...
0:02:01 > 0:02:05- ..which speaks volumes - about the craftsmanship.
0:02:05 > 0:02:11- It's odd that it wasn't acknowledged - as a World Heritage Site sooner.
0:02:11 > 0:02:13- Blame Mrs Thatcher for that!
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- This particular stretch...
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- ..from Pontcysyllte to Llangollen, - with which we are most familiar...
0:02:29 > 0:02:31- ..is the final part - of this development.
0:02:32 > 0:02:34- The aqueduct was completed in 1805.
0:02:34 > 0:02:39- In 1808, the canal - was extended to Llangollen...
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..and onwards to Llantysilio...
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- ..not for any trading purpose...
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- ..but to abstract water - from the River Dee.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- By the 19th century, - the system's sole purpose...
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- ..was to supply water - to the canals...
0:02:56 > 0:02:59- ..of North-West England.
0:02:59 > 0:03:04- The process continued - into the 20th century...
0:03:05 > 0:03:07- ..when water from this area...
0:03:07 > 0:03:10- ..supplied homes in Liverpool.
0:03:10 > 0:03:12- Following World War Two...
0:03:12 > 0:03:15- ..when canals were outmoded...
0:03:15 > 0:03:18- ..there were calls - to pull down this bridge.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- The people of Liverpool - protested strongly against it.
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- "Our water comes from that bridge. - Don't pull it down."
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- Liverpool's thirst for water - has caused turbulence in Wales...
0:03:32 > 0:03:37- ..but it saved the masterpiece - that is the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39- So well done, the Liverpudlians!
0:03:52 > 0:03:55- We're passing over - the River Dee here...
0:03:56 > 0:03:59- ..and we have wonderful views - of the valley below.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- The plan was to have a path - on either side...
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- ..but it proved too expensive, - so they stuck with just the one.
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- Don't walk on that side - - there's a drop of over 100 feet.
0:04:12 > 0:04:14- You wouldn't survive if you fell!
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- This seat belt - is pretty much useless.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21- What I need is a parachute.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24- A parachute would be more useful.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- It's surprising this bridge - wasn't used for industry.
0:04:28 > 0:04:31- The construction cost - must have been high.
0:04:31 > 0:04:35- It cost 500,000 - at the end of the 18th century.
0:04:35 > 0:04:40- That's equivalent - to at least 5 million today.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- It was an investment - that they hoped would pay dividends.
0:04:44 > 0:04:49- But because it didn't link with - the North-East Wales coalfield...
0:04:49 > 0:04:51- ..it didn't pay its way.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- But they were proud of it.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56- People came from all over the world.
0:04:56 > 0:05:01- Sir Charles Sitwell said, "I've - seen the Pont du Gard in France...
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- "..but this is so much better."
0:05:04 > 0:05:06- He's right, of course.
0:05:06 > 0:05:10- It's a river in the sky, - a stream in the heavens.
0:05:10 > 0:05:12- It's a real gem.
0:05:12 > 0:05:16- It's a World Heritage Site - belonging to Wales.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- Further up the River Dee - is the famous town of Llangollen.
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- Central to the town is its bridge, - built by Bishop John Trevor in 1345.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- It's one of the seven wonders - of Wales.
0:05:41 > 0:05:46- But Llangollen's future - as a tourist town was sealed...
0:05:46 > 0:05:50- ..when it was connected - to a network of roads in 1763.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- The canal came later, - at the turn of the 19th century.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- The A5 through the town centre - came later still.
0:06:00 > 0:06:05- By 1830, 30 large carriages - would pass through every day.
0:06:05 > 0:06:10- Even in the 21st century, thousands - of tourists flock to Llangollen.
0:06:10 > 0:06:14- It's certainly one of the most - picturesque towns in Wales.
0:06:19 > 0:06:23- The town was held in high esteem - by its natives centuries earlier...
0:06:24 > 0:06:27- ..in the 13th century - when Gruffydd ap Madog...
0:06:27 > 0:06:30- ..built the imposing - Dinas Bran castle...
0:06:31 > 0:06:36- ..above the abbey, founded - by his father, Madog ap Gruffydd.
0:06:40 > 0:06:45- Valle Crucis was the last - Cistercian abbey built in Wales.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- Every other Welsh principality - had its own abbey...
0:06:53 > 0:06:58- ..so Madog ap Gruffydd Maelor built - this abbey in the 13th century...
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- ..in his own principality, - Powys Fadog.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- It's surprising how much of it - has survived the ravages of time.
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- These are 16 surviving tombstones...
0:07:10 > 0:07:14- ..including that of - Owain Glyndwr's great-grandfather.
0:07:14 > 0:07:19- Valle Crucis Abbey - was dissolved by Henry VIII...
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- ..in the 16th century, - along with every other monastery.
0:07:23 > 0:07:27- Although part of the building - was used as a residence...
0:07:28 > 0:07:33- ..for centuries afterwards, - not much of its past glory remains.
0:07:38 > 0:07:42- Llangollen was overlooked - by the nation for many centuries...
0:07:42 > 0:07:48- ..until two special ladies - arrived from Ireland in the 1870s.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53- Before this town - became a tourist attraction...
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- ..the Ladies of Llangollen - fled here.
0:07:56 > 0:08:01- Eleanor Butler was pressurized - by her mother to join a convent.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- She was a spinster in her thirties.
0:08:04 > 0:08:09- Sarah Ponsonby was attracting the - indecent advances of her guardian...
0:08:09 > 0:08:11- ..Sir William Fownes.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- They fled from oppression, - religion and convention...
0:08:16 > 0:08:18- ..and came here in 1778.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- They lived at Plas Newydd - for 50 years.
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- This wasn't how the house looked - when the Ladies lived here.
0:08:30 > 0:08:34- The grid pattern was added later - in the Victorian period.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37- But if you focus - on the doors and windows...
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- ..you'll notice small carvings.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- They don't all belong - to the same period...
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- ..which is both interesting - and bizarre.
0:08:47 > 0:08:52- Friends would bring decorative items - and stick them to the wall.
0:08:52 > 0:08:53- As you do!
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- The interior is just as astounding.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Though the king's name - is on the wall, he never visited.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04- A friend stuck a piece of wood - to the wall...
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- ..and the king's name - happened to be on it!
0:09:08 > 0:09:10- The Ladies ended their days here.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- The house was renowned - for its many famous visitors...
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- ..including Wordsworth, - Shelley and Sir Walter Scott.
0:09:27 > 0:09:32- The Ladies' relationship has been - described as a romantic friendship.
0:09:32 > 0:09:37- It was acceptable for those who - lived within this creative circle...
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- ..to follow the period's trends - in each other's company.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45- But it appears their relationship - was more than just a friendship.
0:09:49 > 0:09:54- As the saying goes, "There are - two things that are certain in life.
0:09:54 > 0:09:56- "Death and taxes."
0:09:57 > 0:10:01- I'm unaware of their financial - status at the end of their lives...
0:10:01 > 0:10:05- ..but the Ladies are both buried - in St Collen's Church.
0:10:05 > 0:10:08- In peace, and together, of course.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15- Whatever it was that attracted - the Ladies to Llangollen...
0:10:15 > 0:10:17- ..what draws many here today...
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- ..is the Llangollen International - Musical Eisteddfod...
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- ..held at this wonderful pavilion.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- The eisteddfod - was established in 1947...
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- ..as an attempt - to unite the world through song...
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- ..following the Second World War.
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- The next place on our travels - is also famous for its culture.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- Join us after the break - in Penllyn and Bala.
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0:10:54 > 0:10:56- 888- - 888
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- Marian Delyth explains - her choice of photographs...
0:11:06 > 0:11:09- ..in the chapter - on Penllyn and Bala.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- As a good Christian Welshman...
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- ..the one person I associate - with Bala is Thomas Charles.
0:11:17 > 0:11:21- Is it therefore a prerequisite - to have a photo of him in the book?
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- I thought it was important...
0:11:24 > 0:11:29- ..to feature him as one of our - national icons and as a statue.
0:11:29 > 0:11:33- I remember seeing photographs - of this statue as a child.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38- That's maybe one of the reasons - why I chose this photograph...
0:11:38 > 0:11:40- ..to represent Penllyn.
0:11:40 > 0:11:45- The traditional photograph of Bala - is again generic...
0:11:45 > 0:11:47- ..showing its location and so on.
0:11:48 > 0:11:52- It featured in the panel - at the top of the page.
0:11:55 > 0:11:57- I took the main photograph...
0:11:58 > 0:12:03- ..as I passed through Bala - on Boxing Day.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- You have to take advantage - of fine weather...
0:12:07 > 0:12:10- ..when you travel around Wales.
0:12:12 > 0:12:16- The difference - is that subjects jump out at you.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19- You're not searching for a subject.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- The weather - lends itself to the image.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25- The edge of the lake had frozen.
0:12:26 > 0:12:28- I enjoyed the detailed photography.
0:12:40 > 0:12:43- I thought - you'd photographed this tree...
0:12:43 > 0:12:47- ..as it's shaped like a snowflake - to convey the cold weather.
0:12:47 > 0:12:52- I hadn't seen that, - but it's a great observation.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55- I enjoy hearing people's remarks...
0:12:55 > 0:12:58- ..because we all see - different things in images.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- Usually, the tree...
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- ..wouldn't be the central theme - of the photograph.
0:13:05 > 0:13:09- But the elements complement - each other so perfectly here.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12- Perhaps that's why - I chose the tree...
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- ..as the focal point - of this photograph.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20- You have a similar image here, - except it's waterlogged.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- Yes, this shows - how an image changes...
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- ..at different times, - in a different light...
0:13:29 > 0:13:31- ..and in different circumstances.
0:13:31 > 0:13:34- Again, I happened to be - passing through Bala...
0:13:34 > 0:13:36- ..after floods.
0:13:36 > 0:13:41- Although it's completely different, - it's from the same vantage point.
0:13:42 > 0:13:46- Again, it comes down - to the editing for the book.
0:13:46 > 0:13:49- You tend to go - for the pretty picture...
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- ..which shows Penllyn...
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- ..in all its glory.
0:14:21 > 0:14:26- There aren't many places in Wales - where spoil tips remain.
0:14:26 > 0:14:31- Old industrial terrain has been - landscaped beyond recognition.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- But here in Blaenau Ffestiniog...
0:14:34 > 0:14:38- ..the industry of old - is still continuing to this day.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44- In their heyday, local quarries - employed more than 4,000 men.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- Only a few dozen - are employed here now.
0:14:47 > 0:14:53- This was when Blaenau Ffestiniog - provided roofs for the entire world.
0:14:53 > 0:14:58- These days, it's more renowned - as a tourist attraction...
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- ..than the world's - most famous slate quarry.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- Apparently, it was the job...
0:15:13 > 0:15:17- ..of this poor man on top of the - longest ladder you've ever seen...
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- ..to make sure - this ceiling was safe...
0:15:22 > 0:15:26- ..and that it wasn't - in danger of collapsing.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30- I'm sure there were people - queuing up for that job!
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- I think health and safety...
0:15:34 > 0:15:36- ..would have a field day!
0:15:37 > 0:15:41- These men would be out of a job - if current rules applied back then.
0:15:42 > 0:15:45- This is the cabin - where they would eat...
0:15:45 > 0:15:47- ..and discuss pressing issues.
0:15:48 > 0:15:50- The cabin was famous.
0:15:50 > 0:15:55- Of course, there wouldn't have been - a panoramic window like this.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59- But it does give an idea of the - confined space in which they worked.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- Working underground - must have been hard work.
0:16:03 > 0:16:05- By the end of the First World War...
0:16:06 > 0:16:09- ..the slate industry was in decline.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- By World War Two, - many quarries had closed down.
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- But the war gave Manod slate quarry - a new purpose.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- In 1941, all the artwork - from London's National Gallery...
0:16:23 > 0:16:28- ..was transported for safe keeping - to a cavern in Manod quarry.
0:16:28 > 0:16:33- Prior to that, some of the artwork - was kept at Penrhyn Castle...
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- ..and Pritchard Jones Hall - in Bangor.
0:16:36 > 0:16:41- A safer location was needed - and this quarry fitted the bill.
0:16:41 > 0:16:46- Heat and humidity levels - had to be regulated.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- This bridge caused problems.
0:16:49 > 0:16:53- One work of art was too tall - to fit underneath the bridge.
0:16:53 > 0:16:55- It was a painting of Charles I.
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- Instead of chopping off his head - for a second time...
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- ..they had to lower - the level of the road...
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- ..so that the painting would fit.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08- I'm standing on the evidence here.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- This is the difference between - Charles I's head and shoulders!
0:17:13 > 0:17:14- Around half a metre!
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- With some elbow grease - and lots of manual labour...
0:17:19 > 0:17:22- ..Charles I eventually made it - to Manod quarry.
0:17:39 > 0:17:45- We're in the centre of Ruthin, - a town famed for its history.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48- This is where - Owain Glyndwr's rebellion began.
0:17:49 > 0:17:53- It's an important place - in the national history of Wales.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55- We're in St Peter's Square...
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- ..in front of the Myddleton Arms.
0:17:58 > 0:18:03- The Myddletons brought - a fresh water supply to London.
0:18:03 > 0:18:06- The dormer windows - are the Seven Eyes of Ruthin.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- Behind it is St Peter's Church.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- The almshouses are interesting, - and that's just for starters.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- Ruthin is one of the few towns...
0:18:16 > 0:18:22- ..to retain a large number of its - black and white medieval houses.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- The oldest of them all - is Nantclwyd-y-Dre.
0:18:29 > 0:18:34- Each room is furnished differently, - but that's more apparent upstairs.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- When the vicar of Llanfwrog - lived here, he had a study.
0:18:40 > 0:18:43- They even had a telephone...
0:18:43 > 0:18:48- ..which was very progressive - in the 1900s.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- They also had electricity.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55- One room is furnished - as a school for the daughters...
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- ..of Ruthin's fashionable families.
0:18:59 > 0:19:01- Ruthin's answer to a private school.
0:19:02 > 0:19:05- There are dozens of plaques - and papers to read.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08- You could be here all day.
0:19:08 > 0:19:10- It's a very interesting place.
0:19:15 > 0:19:20- The town's oldest site - is that on which the castle stands.
0:19:20 > 0:19:26- From the outside, - it doesn't look much like a castle.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30- It was built - on a red sandstone ridge.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35- Due to its colour, it was known as - the red castle in the great marsh.
0:19:36 > 0:19:39- It was a temptation - to build something on the ridge!
0:19:40 > 0:19:43- There was a castle here - in the late 13th century.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- Llywelyn the Last's brother, - Dafydd, lived here.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51- It may have been - a motte and bailey castle.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55- The plot to attack Hawarden Castle - was conceived here...
0:19:55 > 0:19:59- ..which ultimately ended the reign - of Gwynedd's royal family.
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- Little remains from the Middle Ages.
0:20:02 > 0:20:07- This particular wall - has a medieval look about it.
0:20:07 > 0:20:13- The tower and some other sections - have a medieval feel to them.
0:20:23 > 0:20:25- It operated as a clinic at one time.
0:20:26 > 0:20:28- Buildings were added to it - back then.
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- These days, it's a hotel.
0:20:31 > 0:20:36- It's one of the few places in Wales - where you can actually sleep...
0:20:36 > 0:20:40- ..within the walls - of a medieval castle.
0:20:40 > 0:20:41- The lions are nice too.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44- The lions are nice too.- - They're the best things about it!
0:20:47 > 0:20:50- Our next place - is far from luxurious.
0:20:51 > 0:20:55- It's a fine example of Her Majesty's - hotels - Ruthin Gaol!
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- It belongs to the second half - of the 19th century.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05- It follows - a somewhat classical theme.
0:21:05 > 0:21:09- One man can keep an eye - on 100 cells from this spot.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12- There are close to 100 cells here.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- There are six times as many - male cells as female cells...
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- ..which suggests females either get - away with it or commit fewer crimes.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- Perhaps the most famous story - is that of Coch Bach Y Bala.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- He was born in the 1850s - in Llanfor near Bala.
0:21:33 > 0:21:37- He'd be referred to - as a kleptomaniac nowadays.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40- He certainly - couldn't leave anything alone.
0:21:40 > 0:21:44- He spent over half his life - in prison.
0:21:44 > 0:21:47- But he had this incredible knack - of escaping.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50- People refer to him - as the Welsh Houdini.
0:21:50 > 0:21:54- He apparently escaped twice - from this very prison in Ruthin.
0:21:55 > 0:21:59- The last time he escaped, he was - shot dead by the people hunting him.
0:22:00 > 0:22:05- He was so famous that postcards - of his funeral were printed.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- It suggests - a certain level of fame...
0:22:09 > 0:22:13- ..if people want to buy - a postcard of your funeral!
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- From one institution - rooted in the past...
0:22:19 > 0:22:25- ..to a new institution which looks - to the future for its success.
0:22:25 > 0:22:31- Ruthin Craft Centre has won awards - for its design and initiative.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- This is the centre's art gallery.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- It's a brand-new building - with a design...
0:22:43 > 0:22:46- ..that echoes the shape - of the Clwydian Hills.
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- It won a RIBA Award - for architectural design in 2009.
0:22:51 > 0:22:56- There are lots of little shops - selling the work of Welsh craftsmen.
0:22:59 > 0:23:03- I like the fact that the cafe - didn't sell modern refreshments!
0:23:04 > 0:23:06- It sold dandelion and burdock.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09- Although it's a modern building...
0:23:09 > 0:23:14- ..it takes its cues from the past - in a very constructive way.
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- We sound like a pair of old fogeys.
0:23:16 > 0:23:19- We sound like a pair of old fogeys.- - That's because we are!
0:23:40 > 0:23:43- S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:43 > 0:23:43- .