Pennod 2

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0:00:20 > 0:00:24- This week, we visit Gwent - to see more Welsh wonders.

0:00:24 > 0:00:31- We'll marvel at Tintern Abbey - and Britain's oldest stone castle.

0:00:31 > 0:00:35- We'll see the Severn bridges - through the eyes of Marian Delyth.

0:00:35 > 0:00:41- John Davies joins us on a Roman wall - and our odyssey ends in Trellech.

0:00:44 > 0:00:47- Welcome to 100 Lle, - a series based on the book...

0:00:48 > 0:00:51- ..Wales: The 100 Places To See - Before You Die.

0:00:51 > 0:00:56- The best view of Chepstow Castle - is across the river in England.

0:00:56 > 0:01:01- My journey begins near the Wye - with author John Davies.

0:01:01 > 0:01:06- The most distinctive of Chepstow's - sights is its Norman castle.

0:01:14 > 0:01:16- Here we are in Chepstow.

0:01:17 > 0:01:20- Why did you include it in your book?

0:01:20 > 0:01:23- What makes Chepstow so special?

0:01:23 > 0:01:28- Chepstow is where the Normans - first accessed Wales.

0:01:28 > 0:01:32- As a result, it has Wales's earliest - Benedictine priory.

0:01:33 > 0:01:37- The first stone castle in Wales - was also built in Chepstow.

0:01:37 > 0:01:42- It also has later features - such as the port on the River Wye...

0:01:42 > 0:01:44- ..and the bridge over there.

0:01:44 > 0:01:49- John Rennie built that bridge - across the river in 1816.

0:01:49 > 0:01:54- It's one of the finest iron bridges - in the whole of Britain.

0:01:55 > 0:01:57- Chepstow means market place.

0:01:57 > 0:02:03- The town's Welsh name is Cas-gwent, - which means the castle of Gwent.

0:02:03 > 0:02:07- The Welsh-speakers - focused on Norman might...

0:02:07 > 0:02:12- ..and the non-Welsh speakers - were impressed by its shops!

0:02:13 > 0:02:17- That shows two very different takes - on the town.

0:02:18 > 0:02:22- Unlike Caernarfon Castle, - which was built during one period...

0:02:23 > 0:02:26- ..Chepstow Castle - was built over 500 years...

0:02:26 > 0:02:30- ..between 1097 and Cromwell's time.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36- The history of these old gates - is here for all to see, John.

0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Yes, and they're very interesting.

0:02:39 > 0:02:44- They stood as the castle gates - until as recently as 1962.

0:02:45 > 0:02:50- They decided to fit modern doors, - so they had these dated.

0:02:50 > 0:02:55- These doors have been dated - to around 1197.

0:02:56 > 0:03:01- That makes them the oldest castle - doors in the whole of Europe.

0:03:01 > 0:03:06- That in itself gives Chepstow Castle - a very elevated status.

0:03:06 > 0:03:10- It's incredible to think - that they were in daily use...

0:03:11 > 0:03:14- ..for centuries, up until 1962.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- This is one of the nation's - most treasured relics.

0:03:18 > 0:03:22- As well as the doors, Britain's - oldest Norman round towers are here.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26- The towers were built - in the 12th century.

0:03:26 > 0:03:30- They were easier to defend - than square towers...

0:03:30 > 0:03:33- ..which could be breached - from the outside.

0:03:37 > 0:03:40- This is the Great Tower - of Chepstow Castle.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- Is this the oldest part - of the castle?

0:03:44 > 0:03:48- This is the oldest stone castle - in Britain.

0:03:48 > 0:03:51- It was built within a decade or two - of the 1066 conquest.

0:03:52 > 0:03:55- It bears witness - to the Normans' determination...

0:03:55 > 0:03:58- ..to destroy - the ancient Welsh kingdoms.

0:03:59 > 0:04:03- Chepstow was the chief port - of the old kingdom of Gwent.

0:04:03 > 0:04:09- The Normans chose to lay down - a marker of their authority here.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13- They did so - on an absolutely massive scale.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16- The Great Keep is a copy of the keep - at Falaise in Normandy...

0:04:16 > 0:04:19- ..the birthplace - of William the Conqueror.

0:04:19 > 0:04:24- It's Romanesque, but with - later additions on the top.

0:04:25 > 0:04:28- Those pointed arches - are more recent...

0:04:28 > 0:04:33- ..than the traditional rounded - Norman arches further down.

0:04:34 > 0:04:39- The traditional Romanesque shapes - give it a real robustness.

0:04:39 > 0:04:41- This is a symbol of power.

0:04:47 > 0:04:51- The stone is a very interesting - collection of colours.

0:04:51 > 0:04:55- Yes, they used - several different types of stone.

0:04:55 > 0:04:59- The Great Tower was constructed - from yellow sandstone.

0:04:59 > 0:05:02- It came from the Portskewett area.

0:05:02 > 0:05:07- You can cut yellow sandstone - into square or rectangular blocks.

0:05:08 > 0:05:12- They also used red sandstone - in some parts of the castle.

0:05:14 > 0:05:15- There are new pieces too.

0:05:15 > 0:05:19- Yes. CADW has carefully inserted - a few new stones.

0:05:19 > 0:05:24- They're so new, you could swear - they had just come from B&Q!

0:05:30 > 0:05:33- In Wales: The 100 Places To See - Before You Die...

0:05:33 > 0:05:38- ..John Davies - mentions St Mary's Church, Chepstow.

0:05:38 > 0:05:42- It was built on the site - of an old Benedictine priory.

0:05:43 > 0:05:47- This is the earliest example - of Romanesque architecture in Wales.

0:05:48 > 0:05:53- Another church with an interesting - history lies close to Chepstow.

0:06:03 > 0:06:09- Mathern, Merthyr Tewdrig in Welsh, - is five miles from Chepstow.

0:06:09 > 0:06:10- Who was Tewdrig?

0:06:11 > 0:06:16- First and foremost, he was a king - who ruled Glamorgan and Gwent.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20- Tewdrig took on the Saxons - at Tintern in AD 600...

0:06:21 > 0:06:23- ..and beat them, as it happens.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26- He was wounded during the battle...

0:06:26 > 0:06:31- ..and died from his injuries - three days later.

0:06:31 > 0:06:34- He was then buried here, - at St Mary's Church.

0:06:34 > 0:06:37- According to John Davies...

0:06:37 > 0:06:41- ..if it weren't for Tewdrig's - triumph against the Saxons...

0:06:42 > 0:06:45- ..there would be no Gwent - and Glamorgan...

0:06:45 > 0:06:48- ..and without those, - there would be no Wales.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50- The story doesn't end there.

0:06:51 > 0:06:56- When they repaired - the church floor in 1881...

0:06:56 > 0:07:00- ..they found Tewdrig's remains - inside the church.

0:07:00 > 0:07:05- Tewdrig's remains were then - reinterred here under the radiator.

0:07:08 > 0:07:13- The religious theme continues, - as does my journey.

0:07:14 > 0:07:19- I head up the Wye Valley to one - of Britain's most splendid abbeys.

0:07:31 > 0:07:36- This is Tintern Abbey, which was - built in the early 12th century.

0:07:36 > 0:07:40- It's one of 15 Cistercian abbeys - in Wales.

0:07:40 > 0:07:45- Cistercians usually built - plain abbeys in remote areas.

0:07:45 > 0:07:50- That's not true of this abbey, - which is on the border with England.

0:07:50 > 0:07:55- Most of Wales's abbeys received - the patronage of Welsh princes.

0:07:55 > 0:08:00- Tintern, the wealthiest of them, - was dependent upon Marcher Lords...

0:08:00 > 0:08:03- ..who held power in this area.

0:08:04 > 0:08:07- Tintern is still here, - largely unscathed.

0:08:07 > 0:08:10- It lost its roof - in the 16th century...

0:08:11 > 0:08:14- ..but it stands proudly - in this glorious landscape.

0:08:29 > 0:08:33- The west gable was completed - at the turn of the 13th century.

0:08:33 > 0:08:35- This was the main entrance.

0:08:36 > 0:08:40- There's a hint of a past porch - above the doors...

0:08:40 > 0:08:43- ..but people - entered the building here.

0:08:43 > 0:08:47- Much of the intricate work - above the doors is intact.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- Above the central post, - which divides the two doors...

0:08:52 > 0:08:54- ..there's an oval recess...

0:08:54 > 0:08:58- ..in which there may have been - a statue of Mary.

0:09:01 > 0:09:04- What a sight!

0:09:04 > 0:09:08- We tend to think of churches - as dark buildings...

0:09:08 > 0:09:12- ..but the Cistercians placed - great emphasis on natural light.

0:09:13 > 0:09:17- To that end, the internal walls - of this building were limewashed...

0:09:18 > 0:09:20- ..and there was a red pattern - on the walls.

0:09:21 > 0:09:24- To magnify that natural light...

0:09:24 > 0:09:27- ..the floor was covered - with glossy tiles.

0:09:27 > 0:09:31- There was a church - within a church here.

0:09:31 > 0:09:33- This was the public area.

0:09:33 > 0:09:37- The public was denied access - past this section.

0:09:37 > 0:09:41- There were walls across here, - between the pillars on both sides.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46- The public wasn't actually allowed - into the main body of the church.

0:09:46 > 0:09:51- There was an ornate screen here, - 18 feet high, called the pulpitum.

0:09:53 > 0:09:58- This pulpitum was an unusual feature - in a Cistercian abbey.

0:09:59 > 0:10:02- It was destroyed by Victorians...

0:10:02 > 0:10:07- ..who wanted to create an impression - of one vast, open space.

0:10:20 > 0:10:23- If the intention - was to build an austere abbey...

0:10:24 > 0:10:25- ..they lost the plot!

0:10:26 > 0:10:29- It's no Las Vegas, - but it's still ostentatious.

0:10:30 > 0:10:34- The fun ended with the Dissolution - of the Monasteries in 1536.

0:10:34 > 0:10:39- The lead was stolen from the roof, - leaving these magnificent ruins...

0:10:40 > 0:10:41- ..which are well worth a visit.

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0:11:09 > 0:11:14- 100 Lle is based on the book Wales: - 100 Places To See Before You Die.

0:11:14 > 0:11:18- During this series, - we'll see several locations...

0:11:18 > 0:11:22- ..through the eyes - of photographer Marian Delyth.

0:11:22 > 0:11:26- This week, we look at the bridges - over the River Severn.

0:11:26 > 0:11:32- When I go to these locations, - something unexpected often happens.

0:11:32 > 0:11:37- Suddenly, I saw a boat coming - from the far side of the river.

0:11:37 > 0:11:42- I waited for a while - and I took several shots of it.

0:11:42 > 0:11:46- Suddenly, I reached the point - where there was a wave...

0:11:47 > 0:11:50- ..but you couldn't see the boat.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52- It looks like a mysterious wave.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55- It gives this picture - a special mood.

0:11:55 > 0:11:59- It's a special moment - within the photographic session.

0:11:59 > 0:12:05- This is the old bridge, of course, - so I didn't stay there long.

0:12:10 > 0:12:13- I then headed to Severn Beach.

0:12:14 > 0:12:19- The sun was really bright - on that day.

0:12:19 > 0:12:25- The heat generated by the sun - created a haze.

0:12:25 > 0:12:27- I like the effect...

0:12:27 > 0:12:31- ..even though you can't see - the bridge in great detail.

0:12:32 > 0:12:34- It's like an Impressionist painting.

0:12:35 > 0:12:39- This is the photograph - used above the title in the book.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41- As is the wont of photographers...

0:12:42 > 0:12:48- ..I chose the most interesting part - of the photograph.

0:12:49 > 0:12:56- I was then worried that it was - too light to use above the title.

0:12:56 > 0:13:00- I deepened the colours - a little bit.

0:13:06 > 0:13:08- What about the main picture?

0:13:10 > 0:13:12- You have one for the title...

0:13:12 > 0:13:15- ..but how did you select - the other picture?

0:13:15 > 0:13:20- I like these because they add - a human element to the photograph.

0:13:20 > 0:13:27- They're not abstract shots, - showing the bridge's architecture.

0:13:28 > 0:13:32- It's almost an echo of the bridge - in the background, isn't it?

0:13:33 > 0:13:36- Yes, there's a certain balance - about the photograph.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40- We're looking across at Wales, - of course.

0:13:40 > 0:13:45- There's a symbolism about it - and a real sense of tranquillity.

0:14:24 > 0:14:28- I'm astonished at these walls.

0:14:28 > 0:14:30- I never knew of their existence.

0:14:30 > 0:14:34- You should have come to Caerwent - when you were a child.

0:14:35 > 0:14:37- It's one of the wonders of Wales.

0:14:38 > 0:14:43- Around 3,000 people lived here - in the early fourth century.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46- There wasn't a larger town - than this in Wales...

0:14:46 > 0:14:49- ..for at least a thousand years - after that point.

0:14:49 > 0:14:52- This was Wales's first town...

0:14:52 > 0:14:56- ..and the walls are proof - of the need to defend it.

0:14:56 > 0:14:59- These are the best - Roman town walls in Europe...

0:14:59 > 0:15:02- ..because they're so complete.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06- They were probably built - around AD 370.

0:15:06 > 0:15:10- This town was thriving - at that point in time.

0:15:11 > 0:15:16- Considering so many people - lived here at such an early time...

0:15:16 > 0:15:20- ..something must have happened - to cause it not to develop...

0:15:20 > 0:15:24- ..like Chester, Winchester - and the other great Roman towns.

0:15:25 > 0:15:29- Archaeologists can dig - almost every inch of this land.

0:15:29 > 0:15:33- In Chester, - there are houses upon houses...

0:15:33 > 0:15:35- ..but these are open fields.

0:15:36 > 0:15:39- There were 20 insulae, - or rectangular plots, here.

0:15:40 > 0:15:43- Around 15 of them - have now been excavated...

0:15:43 > 0:15:47- ..but you couldn't do that - in Winchester or Gloucester...

0:15:47 > 0:15:52- ..because they're under buildings - erected by later generations.

0:15:52 > 0:15:54- That isn't true here.

0:15:54 > 0:15:59- We know more about it than any other - Roman town in western Europe.

0:16:12 > 0:16:16- What is there to see - within these walls, John?

0:16:16 > 0:16:19- There would be a lot to see here - 2,000 years ago.

0:16:20 > 0:16:24- When excavations started here - in the late 19th century...

0:16:24 > 0:16:30- ..they tended to date the remains - and take away any objects found...

0:16:30 > 0:16:32- ..then replace the soil.

0:16:32 > 0:16:37- In more recent times, - they've exposed the foundations...

0:16:38 > 0:16:40- ..to make them visible to people.

0:16:46 > 0:16:50- At first glance, the wonders - of Caerwent aren't striking...

0:16:50 > 0:16:53- ..but as you walk - around the remains...

0:16:53 > 0:16:58- ..you can imagine life within - the basilica, the heart of the city.

0:16:58 > 0:17:03- You can also imagine people - worshipping within the Roman temple.

0:17:13 > 0:17:17- We're at St Stephen - and St Tathan church in Caerwent...

0:17:18 > 0:17:24- ..to disprove a claim made by a town - that's a hundred miles away.

0:17:24 > 0:17:25- That's amazing!

0:17:26 > 0:17:30- I'm always angry - when I see signs in Carmarthen...

0:17:30 > 0:17:33- ..claiming it to be - the oldest town in Wales.

0:17:33 > 0:17:37- It's supposition that Carmarthen - was a town 2,000 years ago.

0:17:38 > 0:17:42- There's evidence that Caerwent - was a town 2,000 years ago.

0:17:42 > 0:17:45- This is irrefutable evidence...

0:17:45 > 0:17:49- ..that this was the capital - of the land of Silures.

0:17:49 > 0:17:54- It's a memorial to Paulinus, - the Governor of Britannia Secunda.

0:17:54 > 0:17:56- Inscribed here is...

0:17:57 > 0:18:04- ..ex decreto ordinis - republica civitas Silurum.

0:18:04 > 0:18:09- By order of the republic - of the land of the Silures.

0:18:10 > 0:18:12- This is irrefutable evidence...

0:18:13 > 0:18:16- ..of the status of Caerwent - and of the Silures.

0:18:16 > 0:18:21- Given that it was erected - during the time of Paulinus...

0:18:21 > 0:18:23- ..about what period are we talking?

0:18:24 > 0:18:27- Paulinus was the legate - of Legio Secunda Augusta...

0:18:28 > 0:18:31- ..the legion stationed at Caerleon - in AD 220.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35- This stone belongs to the first half - of the third century.

0:18:36 > 0:18:38- The style is added proof of that.

0:19:20 > 0:19:25- This is the village of Trellech, - or Trelleck or Trelech.

0:19:25 > 0:19:28- There are 37 variations - on the name of this village.

0:19:28 > 0:19:32- As it happens, there's also - a variety of things to see here.

0:19:45 > 0:19:48- We're here to see - this magnificent sundial.

0:19:48 > 0:19:53- It's amazing what you can discover - in the hidden corners of Wales.

0:19:53 > 0:19:57- We're not here to look - at the sundial itself...

0:19:57 > 0:20:00- ..but at the plinth - beneath the dial.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03- The features carved into the stone - are remarkable.

0:20:05 > 0:20:07- On this side, there's a mound.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10- On this side, - there are three stones.

0:20:10 > 0:20:13- On the front, - a carving of a virtuous well.

0:20:13 > 0:20:17- You'll find these features - in the village.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20- Actually, a path - takes you past each of them.

0:20:20 > 0:20:24- In a way, this is a guidebook - to the sights of Trellech.

0:20:24 > 0:20:27- We'll now follow that guidebook.

0:20:42 > 0:20:45- This is the first attraction - on the tour - the mound.

0:20:45 > 0:20:48- You can see how close we are - to the church.

0:20:49 > 0:20:53- Some say that this is a burial mound - for Roman soldiers...

0:20:53 > 0:20:55- ..but that's not true.

0:20:56 > 0:21:01- Rather, these are the remains - of a Norman motte and bailey castle.

0:21:01 > 0:21:04- There was a timber palisade - around the top.

0:21:05 > 0:21:07- Unless I'm very much mistaken...

0:21:07 > 0:21:10- ..I can see the second feature - over there.

0:21:11 > 0:21:13- They're known as Harold's Stones.

0:21:18 > 0:21:20- Some believe - that the name Trellech...

0:21:21 > 0:21:25- ..comes from 'tre' meaning three - and 'llech' meaning flat stone.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29- Although they're named - after King Harold...

0:21:29 > 0:21:34- ..they're Bronze Age stones, - centuries before Harold's time.

0:21:47 > 0:21:51- The fact that this is called - Trellech's Virtuous Well...

0:21:52 > 0:21:56- ..suggests some sort - of religious, healing connection.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00- The fact that it flows through land - which is rich in iron ore...

0:22:00 > 0:22:03- ..may add to the virtuous quality - of the water.

0:22:04 > 0:22:07- Apparently, it helps - to heal eye infections...

0:22:07 > 0:22:10- ..and ailments - that affect only women.

0:22:10 > 0:22:12- There are plenty of those!

0:22:13 > 0:22:18- I need a virtuous drink - from a warmer well.

0:23:05 > 0:23:09- From Tintern Abbey - to Chepstow Castle.

0:23:09 > 0:23:13- From Caerwent's amazing walls - to Trellech...

0:23:13 > 0:23:18- ..and the splendid Severn bridges, - this is a wondrous corner of Wales.

0:23:18 > 0:23:23- These places may only be in Wales, - but they're remarkable - and ours!

0:23:23 > 0:23:25- Try to see them before you die.

0:23:25 > 0:23:27- Cheers!

0:23:48 > 0:23:51- S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones