Pennod 3

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0:00:22 > 0:00:24- This week on 100 Lle...

0:00:25 > 0:00:28- ..we travel from Caernarfon Castle - to Gwydir Castle.

0:00:29 > 0:00:32- Photographer Marian Delyth - captures Tre'r Ceiri.

0:00:32 > 0:00:36- In Llanberis, - we discover our industrial past...

0:00:36 > 0:00:38- ..and electric future...

0:00:38 > 0:00:42- Romantic autumn colours - at Bodnant Gardens.

0:00:42 > 0:00:45- We start in the town of the Cofis.

0:00:48 > 0:00:51- The construction - of Caernarfon Castle began in 1283.

0:00:51 > 0:00:54- Edward I intended it to serve...

0:00:54 > 0:00:59- ..as the focus of English rule - and thus suppress the Welsh nation.

0:01:00 > 0:01:03- The irony, however, - is that nowadays...

0:01:03 > 0:01:07- ..Caernarfon is the most Welsh town - in the country.

0:01:10 > 0:01:16- Caernarfon Castle is one - of Wales's most impressive buildings.

0:01:17 > 0:01:19- One of the most impressive - in the world.

0:01:20 > 0:01:24- As a statement of power, - there's nothing quite like it.

0:01:24 > 0:01:28- Its length spans 450 feet.

0:01:28 > 0:01:32- It's interesting as a statement - of Edward I's intent.

0:01:32 > 0:01:36- Caernarfon was already noted - as the location....

0:01:37 > 0:01:40- ..on which the Roman fort - of Segontium stood.

0:01:40 > 0:01:44- Legend has it - that Magnus Maximus, Constantine...

0:01:44 > 0:01:48- ..and Helen had all been here too.

0:01:48 > 0:01:53- That's why we're here - in the fortress facing Anglesey.

0:01:54 > 0:01:57- It's a wonderful place.

0:02:08 > 0:02:10- Has the castle been built...

0:02:11 > 0:02:14- ..to purposely follow - the course of the river?

0:02:14 > 0:02:17- This side does follow - the river's course...

0:02:17 > 0:02:22- ..but space was confined - due to the old Norman motte.

0:02:22 > 0:02:26- That was later removed, - but it dictated its design.

0:02:26 > 0:02:30- It's an interesting - and very imposing shape.

0:02:31 > 0:02:34- It's neither a concentric castle - like Beaumaris...

0:02:34 > 0:02:38- ..nor a castle with one tower - at its centre like Pembroke.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41- It's a series of defensive towers...

0:02:41 > 0:02:46- ..and adjoining walls, each section - as impenetrable as the next.

0:02:46 > 0:02:50- It's an incomparable statement - of power and wealth.

0:02:53 > 0:02:57- The towers are different - because they're octagonal.

0:02:57 > 0:03:03- That's a conscious imitation - of Roman architecture.

0:03:03 > 0:03:07- He was trying to create a centre - for his royal empire...

0:03:07 > 0:03:09- ..in western Europe.

0:03:09 > 0:03:12- It's also reminiscent - of Constantinople.

0:03:13 > 0:03:16- Octagonal towers - with layers of different stone.

0:03:16 > 0:03:21- Constantinople is situated - in eastern Europe, of course.

0:03:21 > 0:03:25- His intention - was to create an empire.

0:03:25 > 0:03:28- An empire equal to that of Rome.

0:03:28 > 0:03:32- That was certainly - what Edward I had intended.

0:03:34 > 0:03:38- The town's walls were integral - to the castle's design.

0:03:38 > 0:03:43- Caernarfon was an administrative - and legislative centre.

0:03:44 > 0:03:47- It was home to the sheriff - and local officials.

0:03:47 > 0:03:51- The Welsh were banned from the town - until the Tudor period.

0:03:52 > 0:03:55- A relatively new building - has since been constructed...

0:03:55 > 0:03:58- ..for Arfon's administrators.

0:04:06 > 0:04:10- Gwynedd Council, encompassing - Anglesey, Merionethshire...

0:04:11 > 0:04:15- ..and Caernarfonshire, - needed extensive office space.

0:04:15 > 0:04:19- Dewi Prys Thomas was primarily - responsible for this design.

0:04:19 > 0:04:24- There's a plaque and an englyn - written in his honour.

0:04:24 > 0:04:27- He wanted a contrast - to the castle.

0:04:27 > 0:04:31- His inspiration - came from the Swiss cantons.

0:04:31 > 0:04:37- The result is a very charming - yet relaxed building.

0:04:37 > 0:04:42- The authors of Buildings Of Gwynedd - weren't so enthusiastic...

0:04:42 > 0:04:45- ..but I must say - that I'm a great fan.

0:04:58 > 0:05:02- The most imposing tower - within the castle...

0:05:02 > 0:05:05- ..is the Eagle Tower.

0:05:05 > 0:05:09- It was intended to be - the most substantial and striking...

0:05:09 > 0:05:13- ..because it was home - to the Justiciar of North Wales...

0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..the King's representative.

0:05:16 > 0:05:20- It was necessary to have - a dignified dwelling for him.

0:05:20 > 0:05:22- That was it - the Eagle Tower.

0:05:23 > 0:05:27- The eagle is again reminiscent - of the Roman empire...

0:05:27 > 0:05:31- ..where it was the symbol - of Roman dominance.

0:05:31 > 0:05:36- They were sculpted from stone, - traces of which can be seen today.

0:05:36 > 0:05:42- Though the eagle has eroded, - but the tower still bears its name.

0:05:42 > 0:05:44- As this tower - belonged to the Crown...

0:05:45 > 0:05:48- ..the Union Jack - was flown above the tower...

0:05:48 > 0:05:52- ..at least until the end - of the 1920s...

0:05:52 > 0:05:56- ..when a gang of Bangor students - tore down the Union Jack...

0:05:56 > 0:06:00- ..on Sr David's Day - and replaced it with the Red Dragon.

0:06:00 > 0:06:05- That was one of the first protests - giving prominence to the Red Dragon.

0:06:05 > 0:06:09- This is possibly - the first public building...

0:06:09 > 0:06:11- ..to fly the Welsh flag.

0:06:11 > 0:06:13- It has become commonplace now.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35- From one castle to another...

0:06:35 > 0:06:39- ..amid the breathtaking scenery - of Llanberis.

0:06:47 > 0:06:52- We associate Llanberis - with the slate industry and Snowdon.

0:06:52 > 0:06:55- But Llanberis - had strategic importance...

0:06:55 > 0:06:59- ..long before slate was mined - and trains chugged up the slopes.

0:07:00 > 0:07:03- This was the back door of Gwynedd.

0:07:03 > 0:07:08- Dolbadarn Castle was built in 1225 - to defend the valley.

0:07:08 > 0:07:11- It was here that Owain Goch - was imprisoned...

0:07:11 > 0:07:14- ..by his brother, - Llywelyn ap Gruffudd.

0:07:14 > 0:07:18- This was the last Welsh stronghold - to fall to Edward I.

0:07:18 > 0:07:20- To add insult to injury...

0:07:20 > 0:07:23- ..large sections of it - were carried to Caernarfon...

0:07:24 > 0:07:26- ..to build the castle there.

0:07:26 > 0:07:30- The only part that remains today - is this lovely tower.

0:07:43 > 0:07:46- Another of Llanberis's attractions...

0:07:46 > 0:07:49- ..is the power station - inside Elidir Fawr.

0:07:49 > 0:07:53- The idea is that flowing water - produces electricity.

0:07:53 > 0:07:56- It flows from here, Llyn Marchlyn.

0:08:00 > 0:08:03- This is Europe's biggest - pumped storage power station.

0:08:04 > 0:08:08- It was built in less than 10 years - at a cost of 450 million.

0:08:08 > 0:08:12- The aim was to build - a clean power station...

0:08:12 > 0:08:14- ..hidden inside the mountain.

0:08:15 > 0:08:18- A series of interior tunnels - stretch for 10km.

0:08:22 > 0:08:26- The water flows for 600 metres - down the mountain...

0:08:26 > 0:08:28- ..into these six pumps.

0:08:29 > 0:08:33- Amazingly, more water passes - through them in 90 minutes...

0:08:34 > 0:08:37- ..than is used in London - in a whole day.

0:08:38 > 0:08:41- These taps can be opened - in less than five seconds...

0:08:42 > 0:08:46- ..allowing a flow of 92,000 gallons - of water per second.

0:08:46 > 0:08:52- That's equivalent to a million - and a half cups of tea every second.

0:08:54 > 0:09:00- The water flows through the green - and yellow taps we saw earlier...

0:09:00 > 0:09:04- ..underneath the ground - into the turbines behind me.

0:09:04 > 0:09:08- They drive these shafts - into the generators above.

0:09:08 > 0:09:12- They ultimately convert the power - into electricity.

0:09:15 > 0:09:22- From a green modern industry - to an old industry...

0:09:22 > 0:09:26- ..responsible for shaping - this area's stony character.

0:09:37 > 0:09:39- By the late 18th century...

0:09:39 > 0:09:42- ..the slate industry - had reached Llanberis...

0:09:43 > 0:09:47- ..and left its mark - on this striking landscape.

0:09:47 > 0:09:52- The National Slate Museum - gives the impression that workers...

0:09:53 > 0:09:55- ..have only recently downed tools.

0:09:55 > 0:09:58- But this quarry closed in 1969.

0:10:01 > 0:10:05- This is Britain's biggest waterwheel.

0:10:05 > 0:10:10- It was installed - at the end of the 19th century.

0:10:10 > 0:10:16- They could have used steam, - but water was plentiful and free.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20- The energy that it produces - also costs nothing.

0:10:20 > 0:10:23- Power from this wheel - ran all the site's machinery.

0:10:24 > 0:10:27- This is essentially - a self-sufficient factory...

0:10:28 > 0:10:31- ..able to fulfil all kinds - of industrial requirements.

0:10:32 > 0:10:35- It's so much more - than just a slate museum.

0:10:36 > 0:10:41- It's a fitting tribute to the men - who worked and died here.

0:10:51 > 0:10:51- .

0:10:55 > 0:10:55- 888

0:10:55 > 0:10:57- 888- - 888

0:11:03 > 0:11:07- Each week on 100 Lle, - we see one location...

0:11:07 > 0:11:10- ..through the eyes - of photographer Marian Delyth.

0:11:11 > 0:11:13- This week, - it's Tre'r Ceiri on Yr Eifl.

0:11:14 > 0:11:18- How did you go about photographing - Tre'r Ceiri?

0:11:18 > 0:11:21- When I saw that Tre'r Ceiri - was on the list...

0:11:21 > 0:11:23- ..I knew - that it would pose a problem.

0:11:24 > 0:11:27- My dream was to ride in a plane - after it had snowed...

0:11:28 > 0:11:31- ..and to take an aerial photograph - of Tre'r Ceiri.

0:11:31 > 0:11:36- Of course, in the world of Welsh - publishing, that wasn't possible.

0:11:36 > 0:11:40- I submitted one photograph - of Tre'r Ceiri...

0:11:40 > 0:11:45- ..concentrating on the location - and putting it into context.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49- Are these the final photographs?

0:11:50 > 0:11:52- Are these the ones - that made the cut?

0:11:53 > 0:11:56- These were the ones - that led to the final image.

0:11:56 > 0:11:58- I had given up for the day.

0:11:58 > 0:12:02- It had been a fine morning.

0:12:02 > 0:12:06- By lunchtime, it was cloudy, - dark and windy...

0:12:07 > 0:12:08- ..and was snowing.

0:12:09 > 0:12:13- It was so cold that I couldn't - stand outside for five minutes.

0:12:13 > 0:12:17- It was difficult - to keep the camera steady.

0:12:17 > 0:12:21- But these things require patience.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24- I decided to persevere.

0:12:27 > 0:12:31- An artist who draws with a pencil - gradually builds up a picture...

0:12:32 > 0:12:34- ..from a blank piece of paper.

0:12:34 > 0:12:36- He builds the picture.

0:12:36 > 0:12:39- The opposite is true of photography.

0:12:39 > 0:12:42- You start with the picture - or the scene as a whole...

0:12:43 > 0:12:46- ..and then focus in...

0:12:46 > 0:12:50- ..until you find an element - in that scene...

0:12:50 > 0:12:53- ..that's visually exciting.

0:12:53 > 0:12:58- An improvement in the weather - led to that final image...

0:12:58 > 0:13:03- ..where the stone wall stands out...

0:13:03 > 0:13:06- ..because of the snow.

0:13:07 > 0:13:10- Tre'r Ceiri - appears in the background.

0:13:14 > 0:13:17- These are two of the images - that feature in the book.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20- They're almost identical.

0:13:20 > 0:13:24- Yes, almost, but shot - at different times of day.

0:13:24 > 0:13:28- Yr Eifl at sunset - has become a familiar image.

0:13:28 > 0:13:32- I took it a few years ago - with film...

0:13:32 > 0:13:34- ..before the advent of digital.

0:13:34 > 0:13:38- The other photograph - is from Aberdesach.

0:13:39 > 0:13:42- There's no better place to be - in summer than Aberdesach.

0:13:43 > 0:13:45- The views are superb.

0:13:45 > 0:13:50- It's a panoramic shot, showing - Yr Eifl in the context of the sea.

0:13:55 > 0:13:59- In this photograph, - I was trying to convey...

0:13:59 > 0:14:02- ..the harsh weather - and rugged landscape.

0:14:03 > 0:14:06- It's very barren and bare.

0:14:06 > 0:14:09- It's an unforgiving landscape...

0:14:09 > 0:14:15- ..when you consider that people - actually lived on the summit.

0:14:16 > 0:14:21- Once again, the landscape - is somewhat disguised by the snow.

0:14:22 > 0:14:26- It allows you to focus - on other elements...

0:14:26 > 0:14:29- ..such as the green grass.

0:14:29 > 0:14:32- The focus is mainly on the crags.

0:14:33 > 0:14:39- A little snow highlights - the few colours in the landscape.

0:14:50 > 0:14:55- Many gardens in Wales are worth - a visit for one reason or another...

0:14:55 > 0:14:58- ..but they all tend - to be relatively flat.

0:14:58 > 0:15:01- What Bodnant gives us is drama.

0:15:01 > 0:15:05- Helping to create that drama - is the landscape's sloping nature.

0:15:10 > 0:15:14- The industrial chemist - Henry Davis Pochin...

0:15:14 > 0:15:17- ..laid the foundations - for Bodnant's gardens...

0:15:18 > 0:15:20- ..when he retired here in 1874.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24- The family still owns - this Georgian house...

0:15:24 > 0:15:29- ..though the gardens are now owned - by the National Trust.

0:15:31 > 0:15:36- The Aberconway family has played - a key role in Bodnant's development.

0:15:36 > 0:15:40- Manager Michael McLaren - continues the tradition.

0:15:46 > 0:15:50- People visit Bodnant - for numerous reasons.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52- To see the laburnum in bloom...

0:15:52 > 0:15:57- ..and to see the many species - and sub-species of rhododendrons.

0:15:57 > 0:16:01- But it's nice to just walk around - and find quiet spots...

0:16:01 > 0:16:06- ..to catch glimpses of the vibrant - autumn colours between the trees.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13- The site is home - to two interesting buildings.

0:16:14 > 0:16:18- Henry Davis is responsible - for building the mausoleum...

0:16:18 > 0:16:20- ..as a resting place.

0:16:21 > 0:16:25- Later, the second Lord Aberconway...

0:16:25 > 0:16:30- ..relocated the Pin Mill - from Gloucestershire to Bodnant.

0:16:31 > 0:16:34- John mentions in his book...

0:16:34 > 0:16:37- ..that spring is the best time - to visit Bodnant...

0:16:38 > 0:16:40- ..and that autumn - is the most romantic time.

0:16:40 > 0:16:43- On my own. - Let's not get too romantic!

0:16:50 > 0:16:52- Next, one castle, two chapels...

0:16:53 > 0:16:57- ..and one of Britain's - most influential families.

0:17:16 > 0:17:20- This is Gwydir Castle, - the home of the Wynn dynasty.

0:17:21 > 0:17:25- We know more about Sir John Wynn...

0:17:25 > 0:17:30- ..than about almost any other figure - of the 16th and 17th centuries.

0:17:30 > 0:17:34- He wrote - The History Of The Gwydir Family.

0:17:34 > 0:17:39- He mentions his links with William - Morgan's translation of the Bible.

0:17:40 > 0:17:43- He was the area's - most prominent landowner.

0:17:44 > 0:17:48- You get the impression from his work - that he thought a lot of himself...

0:17:48 > 0:17:51- ..and could be rather awkward.

0:17:51 > 0:17:54- With that much power and influence, - he could afford to be.

0:17:55 > 0:17:56- And wealth, of course.

0:17:56 > 0:17:58- And wealth, of course.- - It's a very sturdy house.

0:17:58 > 0:18:02- The Solar Tower - is the most interesting part.

0:18:02 > 0:18:06- Notice the two chimneys, - one at each end.

0:18:06 > 0:18:10- A typical feature - of Snowdonia houses.

0:18:10 > 0:18:15- This may have been the original, - as I'm sure you're aware.

0:18:32 > 0:18:35- The house has a chequered history...

0:18:35 > 0:18:39- ..but this room - has a particularly interesting past.

0:18:39 > 0:18:41- It's very interesting.

0:18:42 > 0:18:45- During the days of Richard Wynn...

0:18:45 > 0:18:49- ..wood panels covered the walls - of this dining room.

0:18:49 > 0:18:54- But after the house - fell into disrepair...

0:18:54 > 0:18:56- ..following the First World War...

0:18:57 > 0:19:00- ..the owners decided to make money - out of them.

0:19:00 > 0:19:03- When Randolph Hearst, - a Citizen Kane-type figure...

0:19:04 > 0:19:09- ..heard about Gwydir's impressive - wooden panels, he bought them.

0:19:09 > 0:19:15- He wanted to reinstall them at his - home in San Simeon, California.

0:19:15 > 0:19:18- But he didn't get around - to doing that.

0:19:18 > 0:19:23- The present owners, who bought - the castle in the early 1990s...

0:19:23 > 0:19:26- ..wondered what had happened - to the panels.

0:19:27 > 0:19:33- In 1996, they found them in boxes - in a New York warehouse.

0:19:33 > 0:19:38- With the help of CADW, - they were able to bring them back.

0:19:39 > 0:19:45- I can't think of a more exciting - or romantic story than that!

0:20:04 > 0:20:10- We've seen where the Wynns lived, - and this is where they died.

0:20:10 > 0:20:13- Or rather, - where they came after they died.

0:20:13 > 0:20:17- It was created as an extension - to the Church of Saint Grwst.

0:20:17 > 0:20:21- The main church - dates back to 1470.

0:20:21 > 0:20:24- This dates back to 1533...

0:20:24 > 0:20:28- ..making it younger - than the main body of the church.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31- It was built - as a final resting place.

0:20:32 > 0:20:36- The bodies of the Wynn family - are buried under this stone floor.

0:20:36 > 0:20:40- Though this place was meant - as a memorial to the Wynns...

0:20:41 > 0:20:45- ..it's also home to the coffin - of Llywelyn Fawr.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49- But its cover is missing.

0:20:49 > 0:20:54- His wife's coffin is very ornate - and is housed in Beaumaris.

0:20:54 > 0:20:59- But the cover for this - has long disappeared.

0:21:04 > 0:21:07- Llywelyn Fawr died in 1240.

0:21:07 > 0:21:10- He had become a monk - at Aberconwy Abbey.

0:21:10 > 0:21:14- Following the Dissolution - of the Monasteries by Henry VIII...

0:21:14 > 0:21:19- ..the coffin was lost for over - a century before it reappeared here.

0:21:36 > 0:21:40- Here's another of the chapels - or churches of the Gwydir family.

0:21:40 > 0:21:44- It's situated halfway up the valley.

0:21:44 > 0:21:46- This was more personal to them.

0:21:46 > 0:21:49- The other is an extension - of the parish church...

0:21:50 > 0:21:54- ..whereas this is a private chapel - near the summer dwelling...

0:21:54 > 0:22:00- ..built for the family - in the hills above the mansion.

0:22:00 > 0:22:04- Interestingly, - this chapel was built in 1673...

0:22:04 > 0:22:08- ..a year before the death - of Richard Wynn...

0:22:08 > 0:22:12- ..the last of the Gwydir barons.

0:22:13 > 0:22:17- The building's showpiece - is its impressive painted ceiling.

0:22:17 > 0:22:22- It echoes the tradition seen - throughout Italy during this period.

0:22:22 > 0:22:27- It's suggested that the depictions - are a little naive.

0:22:27 > 0:22:31- A local artist was commissioned...

0:22:31 > 0:22:34- ..to interpret - Richard Wynn's design.

0:22:34 > 0:22:37- The depiction above the altar...

0:22:37 > 0:22:43- ..or the communion table - represents the Creation.

0:22:43 > 0:22:47- Night and day, heaven and earth.

0:22:47 > 0:22:52- In the middle, there are symbols - of the Holy Trinity.

0:22:52 > 0:22:54- God is dressed in red clothes.

0:22:54 > 0:22:59- Further down, there are six angels - looking particularly angelic.

0:23:00 > 0:23:03- The most important thing - about this place...

0:23:04 > 0:23:06- ..is that it has been left alone.

0:23:06 > 0:23:10- There was a trend - during the Victorian era...

0:23:10 > 0:23:14- ..to give parish churches - a medieval transformation.

0:23:14 > 0:23:19- They revamped and restored them, - but this chapel was left alone.

0:23:19 > 0:23:23- It's a perfect example - of how a noble churchman thought...

0:23:24 > 0:23:29- ..a place of worship should be - in the mid to late 17th century.

0:23:29 > 0:23:32- It's one of our national treasures.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17- S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones