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0:00:22 > 0:00:23- Welcome to 100 Lle...
0:00:23 > 0:00:28- ..a series based on the book Wales: - 100 Places To See Before You Die.
0:00:28 > 0:00:33- This week, Abergavenny, Grosmont, - White Castle and Skenfrith.
0:00:33 > 0:00:37- Marian Delyth's perspective - of Llanthony Priory.
0:00:39 > 0:00:43- A visit to the magnificent - Welsh castle of Raglan...
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- ..and the World Heritage Site - of Blaenavon.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- The market town of Abergavenny - is a lively place...
0:01:06 > 0:01:08- ..but we're here - to celebrate death.
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- The town's church houses - the finest group of tombs in Wales.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- John, we're in St Mary's Church, - in Abergavenny.
0:01:24 > 0:01:29- Thanks to all the alabaster tombs, - it feels more like a morgue.
0:01:30 > 0:01:34- This is the largest collection - in any church in Wales.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- This is a former Benedictine priory.
0:01:37 > 0:01:43- There were 14 tombs here at one time, - all of them exquisitely crafted.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47- It's said to be the largest group - of tombs in Britain...
0:01:48 > 0:01:51- ..after the one at Westminster Abbey.
0:01:52 > 0:01:54- The craftsmanship is breathtaking.
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- Originally, it was a resting place - for members of the family...
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- ..that held the lordship - of Abergavenny.
0:02:02 > 0:02:07- The centre - the place of greatest - honour - became the resting place...
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- ..of William ap Thomas - and his wife, Gwladus.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- A Welsh family lies here, - at the heart of what was...
0:02:15 > 0:02:20- ..the centre of authority - of the Marcher lords.
0:02:20 > 0:02:25- It's proof that the days - of the Marcher lords were numbered...
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- ..and the age of the Welsh gentry - had dawned.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32- William ap Thomas died in 1446.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- He commissioned Raglan Castle.
0:02:37 > 0:02:42- His wife, Gwladus, was described - as the Star of Abergavenny...
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- ..by the poet Lewys Glyn Cothi.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- Lewys Glyn Cothi - had a vivid imagination!
0:02:49 > 0:02:51- She doesn't look like a star.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53- She doesn't look like a star.- - She was younger and prettier then!
0:02:53 > 0:02:55- She was also alive, of course!
0:02:55 > 0:02:56- She was also alive, of course!- - Yes - that helps!
0:02:58 > 0:03:03- Some magnificent restoration work - has been carried out on these tombs.
0:03:16 > 0:03:21- This piece is the jewel in the crown - of St Mary's Church.
0:03:21 > 0:03:27- It's the largest surviving medieval - wooden sculpture in the world.
0:03:28 > 0:03:29- This is Jesse.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33- You can see his head - and his long beard.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38- Jesse was an ancestor of Christ, - through Joseph.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- You can see that if you read - the genealogical lines in the Bible.
0:03:45 > 0:03:49- The story was that a tree - rose from his body as he slept.
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- All his descendants could be seen - on the tree's branches.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- That's exactly - what was here, originally.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01- Branches grew from the tree trunk, - protected by his arm...
0:04:01 > 0:04:05- ..and the piece stretched - all the way to the ceiling.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- The figures on the branches - were more or less life-sized.
0:04:09 > 0:04:11- It must have been enormous.
0:04:12 > 0:04:14- It was carved in the 15th century...
0:04:14 > 0:04:18- ..but most of it was destroyed - during the Reformation.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21- Fortunately, this section survived.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- Fortunately, this section survived.- - This is its original home.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- Yes, though it has been exhibited - in London on a few occasions.
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- It's the star of any exhibition - of medieval woodwork.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- It's truly astonishing.
0:04:35 > 0:04:41- We're fortunate to have this great - medieval piece here in Abergavenny.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- From St Mary's Church, - we meander up the main street...
0:04:49 > 0:04:51- ..keeping to the theme of death.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- A heinous case of genocide - happened at Abergavenny Castle.
0:05:01 > 0:05:06- As we mentioned earlier, Gwladus, - William ap Thomas's wife...
0:05:06 > 0:05:09- ..was known - as the Star of Abergavenny.
0:05:09 > 0:05:14- The man who lived here was known - as the Ogre of Abergavenny.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17- William de Braose was an ogre.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- He was the father - of Black William...
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- ..who was hanged - by Llywelyn the Great.
0:05:23 > 0:05:28- On Christmas Day 1175, he invited - local Welsh leaders to a feast...
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- ..and had them all murdered.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- They were all unarmed...
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- ..because they had come in peace - to celebrate Christmas.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- William de Braose - hasn't been forgotten here.
0:05:40 > 0:05:45- When children are naughty, - parents say he'll come after them!
0:05:45 > 0:05:47- It's despicable to kill your guests.
0:05:48 > 0:05:53- It's the worst example of ethnic - slaughter in medieval Wales.
0:06:14 > 0:06:18- There are three castles - on the border here in Gwent.
0:06:18 > 0:06:23- They form a triangle - Skenfrith, - Grosmont and this one, White Castle.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- It's known as White Castle - because it was painted white.
0:06:28 > 0:06:33- The three castles were built - around the same period...
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- ..and were under the same ownership - for 700 years.
0:06:37 > 0:06:42- The great attraction for me is that - I can see all three in one day.
0:06:42 > 0:06:47- John says that a fit walker - can see all three in a day.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- It's a round trip - of around 20 miles.
0:06:50 > 0:06:54- Do yourselves a favour - and go by car - it's much easier!
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- There was some sort of building - on this hill...
0:07:11 > 0:07:14- ..soon after the Norman Conquest.
0:07:14 > 0:07:19- It was probably a timber structure - on the motte, in the middle here.
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- These curtain walls were erected - in the late 12th century.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28- It was the Crown's response - to a revenge attack on Abergavenny.
0:07:28 > 0:07:31- The Welsh sought retribution...
0:07:31 > 0:07:36- ..after the Christmas Day massacre - carried out by William de Braose.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39- It was literally a vicious circle.
0:07:39 > 0:07:45- A form of political ping-pong - across the border.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- At Skenfrith, you'll see the remains - of a rectangular castle...
0:08:04 > 0:08:07- ..built between 1219 and 1232.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10- There's also a round tower - in the centre.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- Several families - owned the three castles...
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- ..including John of Gaunt - and Henry IV.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- The last of those owners - was the Duke of Beaufort.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- They remained in his hands - until the early 20th century...
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- ..when he sold 11,000 acres of land - that included Tintern Abbey...
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- ..Raglan Castle, 20 manors - and 20 hotels.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- It was a huge sale.
0:08:51 > 0:08:55- Last and least is Grosmont, - the smallest of the trinity.
0:08:55 > 0:09:00- This one has the finest - architectural features.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05- There are several pretty arches here - and the chimney is beautiful.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- There are also wonderful features - in the unlikeliest of places.
0:09:37 > 0:09:43- In 1404, during the Revolt, - Owain Glyndwr attacked it twice.
0:09:43 > 0:09:48- On the second occasion, - the residents fled to the gatehouse.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- Gruffudd ab Owain, Glyndwr's son, - laid siege to this castle.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- The failure of that siege...
0:09:55 > 0:10:00- ..was an important factor in the - collapse of Glyndwr's principality.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- Despite all the wars and revolts - in the history of these castles...
0:10:17 > 0:10:21- ..their future is secured - and they're well worth a visit.
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0:10:39 > 0:10:43- In our weekly feature, - we see one location...
0:10:43 > 0:10:47- ..from the perspective - of photographer Marian Delyth.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- This time, we're in Llanthony.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53- There's peace - and tranquillity there.
0:10:54 > 0:10:58- There's something special - about the priory and the valley.
0:11:00 > 0:11:05- It's a place that has attracted - idealists across the centuries.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08- People who sought inner peace.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11- This is the evening light.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- The setting sun - warmed the colour of the stone.
0:11:16 > 0:11:21- I also included a shot of Llanthony - in very different conditions.
0:11:21 > 0:11:26- This was taken on a misty day - and the colours are quite different.
0:11:36 > 0:11:41- I wanted to show the majesty - and the beauty of the architecture.
0:11:41 > 0:11:46- Once again, although I photographed - the location extensively...
0:11:46 > 0:11:50- ..my eye was drawn - to small details at the site.
0:11:51 > 0:11:56- I took photographs of things - such as this carved stone.
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- If I zoom in even closer...
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- ..there's an image among the lichen - and the other patterns.
0:12:07 > 0:12:08- Yes - I see a candle.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- Yes - I see a candle.- - History isn't about dates for me.
0:12:11 > 0:12:14- History is about the individual - who carved that candle.
0:12:15 > 0:12:20- When was he alive? - What was his world like?
0:12:20 > 0:12:21- What was in his mind?
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- You don't see many statues - of the Virgin Mary in Wales.
0:12:28 > 0:12:31- There is one in this valley.
0:12:32 > 0:12:36- She stands there, - in the most wonderful of settings.
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- I've taken many photographs - of this statue.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- This is the one in the book.
0:12:42 > 0:12:47- I took a black and white photograph - of it years ago, when I was young.
0:12:47 > 0:12:51- There's something very special - about that area.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- I took these photographs - without the book itself in mind.
0:12:58 > 0:13:03- These encapsulate seconds - of my experiences in Llanthony.
0:13:03 > 0:13:08- Photography allows us to capture - and to freeze a split second.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12- You often see a special light - when you're driving...
0:13:12 > 0:13:16- ..and think, "Wow! Isn't that - absolutely stunning?"
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- Photography allows you - to keep it for posterity.
0:13:20 > 0:13:23- That's one of the great things - about it.
0:13:23 > 0:13:25- We never lose that moment.
0:13:34 > 0:13:36- Next, to Raglan...
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- ..to see one of Welsh history's - most substantial buildings.
0:13:48 > 0:13:50- This is Raglan Castle...
0:13:51 > 0:13:54- ..one of Wales's - most magnificent castles.
0:13:54 > 0:13:59- It's the largest British castle - built during the 15th century.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02- It was commissioned - by William ap Thomas.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05- We saw his tomb - and that of his wife, Gwladus...
0:14:05 > 0:14:08- ..at St Mary's Church, Abergavenny.
0:14:08 > 0:14:13- William ap Thomas built the keep - and the section behind it.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19- William Herbert, his son, - inherited the castle.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22- He continued his father's work.
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- He created the castle, - in all its glory.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- For many, William Herbert - was the Son of Prophecy.
0:14:30 > 0:14:33- Poet Guto'r Glyn urged him to...
0:14:33 > 0:14:39- .."Unite Glamorgan and Gwynedd - as one, from Conwy to Neath."
0:14:39 > 0:14:42- He was seen - as the rightful King of Wales.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- William Herbert's son - was a bit of a wimp...
0:15:11 > 0:15:16- ..but his granddaughter - married into an influential family.
0:15:16 > 0:15:20- She married Charles Somerset, - the Earl of Worcester.
0:15:20 > 0:15:25- William ap Thomas built a castle - with defence in mind...
0:15:25 > 0:15:30- ..the Somerset family - turned it into a real palace.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- The remarkable number of fireplaces - bear witness to that.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44- This is the banqueting hall.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- Invited guests would come here - to dine with the owners.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- One of the main talking points - in this glorious room...
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- ..would have been - this enormous fireplace.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- It was built directly below - a very large window.
0:16:00 > 0:16:05- People must have wondered how it was - possible to build a fireplace there.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07- Where did the smoke go?
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- Well, quite simply, - they split the flue.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- It's a sign of the sophistication - that I mentioned.
0:16:14 > 0:16:20- It shouts out, "Look how clever - we are. Look at what we created!"
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- It was home - to the fifth Earl of Worcester...
0:16:25 > 0:16:27- ..when Cromwell and his men came by.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31- The castle was damaged - during the siege, in 1646.
0:16:31 > 0:16:36- The Somersets regained possession - of it, but never lived there again.
0:16:37 > 0:16:41- Before we leave Raglan, it's worth - visiting St Cadoc's Church...
0:16:41 > 0:16:45- ..to see the mutilation - of the Somerset tombs...
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- ..and to see the magnificent castle - from the top of the tower.
0:16:57 > 0:17:02- Next, we visit - Blaenavon's dramatic landscape.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- It bears witness - to the industrial developments...
0:17:06 > 0:17:08- ..of the early 19th century.
0:17:27 > 0:17:32- Of all the World Heritage Sites, - only nine are industrial landscapes.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34- Blaenavon is one of them.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- All the processes - are visible on the landscape.
0:17:39 > 0:17:41- We'll visit the old ironworks.
0:17:41 > 0:17:46- From there, we'll see the tunnels - leading to Garnddyrys Forge...
0:17:46 > 0:17:51- ..and, from there, the tram road - that led to the canal at Llanfoist.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56- We'll see where they mined - for iron ore and coal.
0:17:56 > 0:17:58- It's all visible here.
0:17:59 > 0:18:03- The landscape tells the whole story.
0:18:03 > 0:18:06- There's nothing to compare to this.
0:18:06 > 0:18:10- The iron industry went into decline - in the late 19th century...
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- ..to be replaced - by the coal industry.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- Big Pit, behind us, - was opened in 1873.
0:18:17 > 0:18:19- It was very modern in its time.
0:18:19 > 0:18:22- It was the first pit - to use electricity...
0:18:22 > 0:18:27- ..and the first to have two shafts - running two trams at a time.
0:18:27 > 0:18:32- It functioned for a century, - then reopened as a museum in 1983.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- It then became part - of the National Museum in 2005.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- In the same year, - it won the Gulbenkian Prize...
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- ..Britain's biggest - culture and arts prize.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- We're standing - in a historical place.
0:18:46 > 0:18:51- It's one of the most popular - industrial museums in the world.
0:19:01 > 0:19:03- In we go, John.
0:19:03 > 0:19:05- We're going down into the pit.
0:19:05 > 0:19:07- You've been here before.
0:19:07 > 0:19:08- You've been here before.- - Yes, I have.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- This is the stuff - that we used in our fireplaces.
0:19:21 > 0:19:23- Yes, this is the coalface.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- It's quite a large seam of coal.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- It suggests - that there's a lot of coal here.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- It glitters, doesn't it?
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- Yes, it has been compressed - over millions of years...
0:19:38 > 0:19:41- ..and here it is, - in front of your eyes.
0:19:43 > 0:19:48- What you see here are marks - to count the number of trams filled.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- The markings are in groups of five.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55- They were paid according - to how much coal they produced.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- It's strange to think that horses - were stabled underground.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17- At one time, - there were 72 ponies here.
0:20:17 > 0:20:22- Yes, and they continued to be used - in the pit until the 1970s.
0:20:23 > 0:20:27- There's a suggestion that they were - treated better than the miners!
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- The men worked 12-hour shifts - and the ponies eight-hour shifts.
0:20:32 > 0:20:37- They were allowed into the open air - for a fortnight every year...
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- ..and ran around wildly for days.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- There's a saying, - as crazy as a pit pony.
0:20:43 > 0:20:48- Having spent months underground, - their eyesight was poor, naturally.
0:20:49 > 0:20:51- They'd bump into each other.
0:20:51 > 0:20:55- They then became accustomed - to sunlight and enjoyed it.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59- They all had their names - on their own stable.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02- The pony stabled here - was called Welsh.
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- Bullet's stable was over there.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07- Up, beyond here, - was Shergar's stable.
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- Shergar came here!
0:21:09 > 0:21:10- I think that's a joke.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12- I think that's a joke.- - No, it's true!
0:21:24 > 0:21:29- Big Pit deserves its place among - Europe's most popular museums...
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- ..but Blaenavon's main story - belongs to the ironworks.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44- Here we are, at Blaenavon Ironworks.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- It belongs to the very early days - of the Industrial Revolution.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- It may even come ahead of it.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- It was built at the advent - of the Industrial Revolution.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- These are the most complete remains - of an ironworks...
0:22:01 > 0:22:04- ..from the early years - of the Industrial Revolution.
0:22:05 > 0:22:08- That adds further significance - to Blaenavon...
0:22:08 > 0:22:13- ..especially when you consider - the industrial landscape around it.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- You can read the landscape.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- That's why the landscape, - along with the ironworks...
0:22:20 > 0:22:22- ..are a World Heritage Site.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25- The invention of new techniques...
0:22:26 > 0:22:29- ..prompted the owners to build - new works across the valley.
0:22:30 > 0:22:32- That's why these works survived.
0:22:34 > 0:22:38- The developments at the new works - at Forgeside in 1878...
0:22:38 > 0:22:43- ..places Blaenavon - at the forefront of world history.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- Sidney Gilchrist Thomas - discovered a way to produce steel...
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- ..by eliminating phosphorus - from iron ore.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- This crucial development...
0:22:53 > 0:22:56- ..led to the industrial growth - of the modern world.
0:23:00 > 0:23:06- From the outset, - they used steam to create the blast.
0:23:06 > 0:23:11- That allowed them to have - a group of furnaces working together.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- Originally, - the process relied on water...
0:23:15 > 0:23:18- ..which only allowed you - to use one furnace.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22- This was the first group of furnaces - to be built in the world.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- In the 1790s, this was - the world's largest ironworks.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- Blaenavon was outstanding - for many reasons.
0:23:30 > 0:23:36- It is, without a doubt, - the most significant place in Wales.
0:24:14 > 0:24:17- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:17 > 0:24:17- .