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0:00:22 > 0:00:23- Welcome to 100 Lle.
0:00:23 > 0:00:26- We've reached the North Wales coast.
0:00:26 > 0:00:31- Across the River Conwy, I can see - one of Wales's most glorious views.
0:00:34 > 0:00:39- From Conwy, we head east to Denbigh - and St Marcella's Church.
0:00:39 > 0:00:43- We see Holywell - through the eyes of Marian Delyth...
0:00:44 > 0:00:47- ..before exploring Ewloe - and Hawarden.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51- Dr John Davies joins me - in Conwy, Rhuddlan and St Asaph.
0:01:00 > 0:01:05- Is there a more glorious approach - to any town than there is to Conwy?
0:01:06 > 0:01:09- Before the bridges were built, - the castle would have reared up...
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- ..like a magical vision - across the water.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- It's an alluring example - of a medieval castle.
0:01:22 > 0:01:25- It's a place - of obvious strategic importance...
0:01:26 > 0:01:29- ..so why wasn't there - a castle here earlier?
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- There were forts along the River - Conwy dating back to Roman times.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- Maelgwn Gwynedd commissioned - a castle in Deganwy, over there.
0:01:39 > 0:01:41- He built his castle on that mound.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46- It was rebuilt - by both the Normans and the Welsh.
0:01:46 > 0:01:49- There was a castle - near the Conwy estuary...
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- ..from the 12th century - to the late 13th century.
0:01:53 > 0:01:58- A castle on a hill isn't as strong - as one more or less on the river.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- Most of Edward I's strongholds...
0:02:04 > 0:02:06- ..were within easy reach of the sea.
0:02:07 > 0:02:11- It made sense to build a castle - that was accessible to shipping.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- Apparently, Conwy Castle - is the most magnificent...
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- ..of all the castles - commissioned by Edward I.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23- Caernarfon Castle - is his most high-profile castle.
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- The Investiture was held there - and it's world-famous.
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- Conwy Castle is more ingenious - and more ambitious.
0:02:33 > 0:02:38- If you look at the walls, - they're 1,300 metres long.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- Caernarfon has only 700 metres.
0:02:41 > 0:02:46- Conwy was planned as a town - twice the size of Caernarfon.
0:02:46 > 0:02:51- It's evidence that they saw Conwy - as the capital city of North Wales.
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- By 1284, there had been - a change of heart...
0:02:55 > 0:02:58- ..and the focus - shifted to Caernarfon.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- Edward I and Eleanor, his wife...
0:03:04 > 0:03:09- ..spent much of their sojourn - in Wales, in 1283 and 1284, here.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- It's a joy to walk among the ruins - of the most opulent royal rooms...
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- ..built in 13th century Europe.
0:03:17 > 0:03:23- It's also a joy to admire Telford - and Stephenson's masterpieces.
0:03:23 > 0:03:28- Conwy is as famous for its bridges - as it is for its castle.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31- To these, we can add - the innovative tunnel...
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- ..that carries the A55 road - under the river.
0:03:39 > 0:03:44- Having crossed the river, - you'll find St Mary's Church...
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- ..the burial site - of Llywelyn the Great.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- Also here is Plas Mawr, a striking - house built by Robert Wynn in 1585.
0:03:54 > 0:03:58- Aberconwy House, - the oldest town house in Wales...
0:03:59 > 0:04:02- ..was built in Castle Street - in around 1420.
0:04:05 > 0:04:08- If you were here - during the 17th century...
0:04:08 > 0:04:13- ..most houses within the walls - would have looked like this.
0:04:14 > 0:04:18- In the 1930s, an American - was so taken by this house...
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- ..that he wanted to dismantle it - and ship it to Texas!
0:04:22 > 0:04:24- This house has ancient roots.
0:04:24 > 0:04:30- The woodwork on the ground floor - dates back to around 1419.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- It suggests - that the house was renovated...
0:04:34 > 0:04:39- ..in the period immediately - following the Glyndwr Revolt.
0:04:39 > 0:04:44- It points to a resurgent economy - in Conwy following the revolt.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- Some claim that parts of the masonry - are as old as the castle...
0:04:48 > 0:04:50- ..which is 800 years old.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- You're an expert on crucks - aren't you, Aled?
0:04:55 > 0:04:57- Is this what you'd call a cruck?
0:04:57 > 0:05:02- No, I wouldn't call them crucks - in the conventional sense.
0:05:03 > 0:05:04- They're A-frames.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- Is a cruck constructed - from a single piece of wood...
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- ..that goes from floor to ceiling?
0:05:11 > 0:05:16- No, but it would be a single piece - of wood from here upwards.
0:05:16 > 0:05:19- You've been denied the pleasure - of seeing a cruck.
0:05:20 > 0:05:20- I'll survive!
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- I'll survive!- - A cruck a day keeps the doctor away!
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- Having missed out - on seeing crucks in Conwy...
0:05:43 > 0:05:45- ..we head to the town of Denbigh.
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- Edward I presented Denbigh - to Henry de Lacy in 1282.
0:06:07 > 0:06:12- Above the main door are the remains - of a statue built to thank him.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- It took around 13 years - to build this magnificent castle.
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- It stands on the hill - above what is now Denbigh.
0:06:23 > 0:06:25- The great gatehouse - has three towers.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29- As Welsh gatehouses go, - this is the cat's pyjamas.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- It really does have everything.
0:06:32 > 0:06:37- An external barbican, a prison, - two portcullises, a drawbridge...
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- ..some private quarters and a hall.
0:06:40 > 0:06:45- It's worth climbing to the top - of the hill, through the town...
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- ..to admire - this ingenious structure.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59- Keep walking - to the top of the wall...
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- ..and you'll see why Denbigh Castle - was built here.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06- The views are breathtaking, - in all directions...
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- ..from the Vale of Clwyd - and Moel Famau...
0:07:10 > 0:07:14- ..across the hills and down - to the plains and to St Asaph.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19- The town stands proudly below us, - all around the castle.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22- It is a truly wondrous sight.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33- The former mental hospital - is visible from the castle.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38- There are interesting - ancient buildings in the town.
0:07:38 > 0:07:43- They include the old Gwasg Gee press - and Theatr Twm o'r Nant.
0:07:44 > 0:07:48- Twm o'r Nant leads us - to the pretty St Marcella's Church.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- Twm o'r Nant was buried here, - at St Marcella's Church.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07- "Here lieth the body - of Thomas Edwards of Nant...
0:08:07 > 0:08:09- "..the Cambrian Shakespeare...
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- "..with his wife - and four of his daughters.
0:08:13 > 0:08:19- "Died 5 April, 1810, aged 71."
0:08:19 > 0:08:21- There's a poem in Welsh.
0:08:21 > 0:08:27- "Despite the glorious natural - talent of this famous poet...
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- "..the muse and his brogue - are silenced in this quiet spot."
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- Isn't that beautiful?
0:08:42 > 0:08:46- There is a memorial - to Humphrey Llwyd in this church.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- His map of Wales - was published in Antwerp...
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- ..two years after his death in 1568.
0:08:52 > 0:08:57- This is a memorial to the Myddletons - and their 16 children.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- One memorial is even more amazing.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05- It's the tomb of Sir John Salusbury - and his wife, Joan.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- He was known - as Sir John of the Thumbs.
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- Some say that he was named - because he had very strong hands.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- Others say that he had two thumbs - on both hands.
0:09:15 > 0:09:20- His fingers have disappeared, - so we can't confirm that theory.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24- At his feet - lies the Beast of Caledfryn.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- This beast terrorized local people.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- Legend has it - that Sir John slew this beast.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35- Some people think - that it was actually his dog.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- This face was added to the body - some ten years after his death.
0:09:43 > 0:09:48- The face on Joan's body was created - while she was still alive.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51- It must have been strange...
0:09:51 > 0:09:56- ..to have an alabaster carving - of your head made before your death.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00- Around the bottom - are carvings of their children.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- They had nine boys and four girls.
0:10:27 > 0:10:27- .
0:10:31 > 0:10:31- 888
0:10:31 > 0:10:33- 888- - 888
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- In every episode of 100 Lle...
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- ..we see one location - through the eyes of Marian Delyth.
0:10:52 > 0:10:54- This week, it's Holywell.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06- In my ignorance, I thought - that all Holywell had to offer...
0:11:06 > 0:11:11- ..was the shrine - and St Winifred's Well.
0:11:11 > 0:11:16- I let the place dictate the content - of the photographs that I took.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- I took many photographs - of the general views.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- I also focused on various elements.
0:11:22 > 0:11:26- I then realized - that there's far more to Holywell...
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- ..than the shrine and the well.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- I enjoyed a glorious afternoon - walking along the path...
0:11:36 > 0:11:41- ..around the old industrial area - of Greenfield.
0:11:41 > 0:11:47- I walked through Greenfield - and came across Basingwerk Abbey.
0:11:53 > 0:11:57- Which photographs are in the book - and why did you choose them?
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- John was keen to have a picture - of the well itself.
0:12:01 > 0:12:05- He's interested - in the architecture...
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- ..so he asked me - to include this photo.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12- It includes - the architectural elements.
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- We chose a photograph of this - wonderful 15th century statue...
0:12:18 > 0:12:22- ..of a porter - and a stricken pilgrim.
0:12:24 > 0:12:29- It was a tradition - to carry invalids to help them.
0:12:29 > 0:12:34- When we move down the valley, - away from the church and the well...
0:12:34 > 0:12:38- ..we find a far more recent - industrial landscape.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44- However, they both made use - of the power of flowing water.
0:12:46 > 0:12:48- Yes, as John explains in the book...
0:12:49 > 0:12:52- ..industrialists harnessed - the power of the water.
0:12:53 > 0:12:59- It helped to create the local wool, - cotton, coal and copper industries.
0:13:00 > 0:13:06- There are graphic and strong images - of industrial remains.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12- All around the remains, - nature has reclaimed the land.
0:13:13 > 0:13:19- That combination of natural beauty - and industrial remains...
0:13:19 > 0:13:21- ..works wonderfully well.
0:13:31 > 0:13:34- Next, we go to Ewloe and Hawarden.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- Hawarden boasts - a collection of memorials...
0:13:38 > 0:13:41- ..to an important figure - in British history.
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- William Ewart Gladstone died - at the ripe old age of 89.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49- He was a Member of Parliament - for most of his life.
0:13:49 > 0:13:52- He served four terms - as Prime Minister.
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- He collected 32,000 books.
0:13:55 > 0:13:59- We know that he read 22,000 - of those, as he wrote notes in them.
0:14:00 > 0:14:05- He built a library in Hawarden - to let local people read them too.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- The books weren't for - the exclusive use of local people.
0:14:12 > 0:14:17- This residential library was built - at the turn of the 20th century.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- It still welcomes guests today.
0:14:20 > 0:14:25- This collection could have gone - to the Bodleian or to London...
0:14:25 > 0:14:30- ..but Gladstone sought to unite - readers who had no books...
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- ..with books that had no readers.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37- That's why this collection - remained in Wales.
0:14:37 > 0:14:41- What you get here, - apart from this wealth of books...
0:14:41 > 0:14:45- ..are the personal notes - made by Gladstone.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49- For example, there are books here - from his time at Eton.
0:14:49 > 0:14:54- He has doodled on the pages, - so he wasn't too busy in class!
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- He has drawn pictures - of some of his teachers.
0:14:57 > 0:14:59- They're quite funny.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- He made more personal notes - later in his life.
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- This is a book about Wilberforce, - a man whom Gladstone knew.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12- "I had breakfast with Wilberforce - on the 25th of July."
0:15:13 > 0:15:15- That was four days before his death.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18- "His conversation was cheerful, - whimsical and flowing...
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- "..his prayer - like that of one already released."
0:15:22 > 0:15:23- That's beautiful.
0:15:42 > 0:15:46- The family connection in the church - next to the library is very clear.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- Gladstone spent a lot of time here, - in the pews and in the pulpit.
0:15:51 > 0:15:56- Before you leave Hawarden, - it's worth visiting his memorial.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- It's a copy of the original, - in Westminster.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- Some treasures - can be seen from afar...
0:16:10 > 0:16:13- ..but others you have to search for.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- This is one such treasure.
0:16:26 > 0:16:31- You'll find a real gem in Ewloe, - a stone's throw from Hawarden.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41- Llywelyn ap Gruffudd - built Ewloe Castle in 1257.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43- What a cheek!
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- Building it certainly - put English noses out of joint.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51- But it didn't last long.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55- Edward I was probably here - around 20 years later.
0:16:55 > 0:16:58- He did well to find it!
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- Ewloe Castle is a compact building.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- This was the most easterly - of the castles of the Welsh Princes.
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- It doesn't have a rich history...
0:17:15 > 0:17:19- ..but you feel a part of it - when you visit the ruins.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32- Of the 100 places to see in Wales - before you die...
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- ..Ewloe Castle - is among the hardest to find.
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- That very fact - makes it more valuable.
0:17:43 > 0:17:45- Ooh! That's priceless!
0:17:58 > 0:18:03- From the hidden castle of Ewloe - to the prominent ruins of Rhuddlan.
0:18:04 > 0:18:09- Lying in the shadow of the castle - is an important historical site.
0:18:16 > 0:18:18- MUSIC
0:18:21 > 0:18:23- Well, here we are in Rhuddlan, John.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- This may not be - the most familiar image of the town.
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- When most people think of Rhuddlan...
0:18:30 > 0:18:33- ..they think of the stone castle - built in the 1270s.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37- We're standing on Twthill.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40- It's a motte and bailey castle...
0:18:41 > 0:18:44- ..built for Robert of Rhuddlan - in around 1073.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48- Before the motte was built...
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- ..the palace of Gruffudd ap Llywelyn - may have stood here.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- He was the only king - during the Middle Ages...
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- ..to unite the whole country.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- The idea is that Rhuddlan - was the first capital of Wales.
0:19:04 > 0:19:10- The defunct Rhuddlan District Council - had a very noble motto.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- Rhuddlan, Cradle of Wales.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18- The roots of the Welsh nation...
0:19:18 > 0:19:20- ..and a budding Welsh state are here.
0:19:23 > 0:19:27- From the late 11th century - until the 13th century...
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- ..Rhuddlan changed hands - many times...
0:19:30 > 0:19:34- ..between the Welsh, - the Normans and the English.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- The success of Welsh Princes - can be measured...
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- ..by the times - when they held Rhuddlan.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43- When they lost Rhuddlan, - they were waning.
0:19:44 > 0:19:45- This was the benchmark.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- Rhuddlan Castle - was commissioned by Edward I.
0:19:57 > 0:20:01- It was the first - of the Welsh castles...
0:20:01 > 0:20:05- ..with which the great architect - James of St George was involved.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09- From the centre of the castle...
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- ..we can see the imperfect lozenge - shape to which people refer.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- It's a square that has been - compressed at both ends.
0:20:18 > 0:20:21- It isn't a perfect square, - that's for certain.
0:20:23 > 0:20:25- It's a rectangle.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31- There are two single towers - and two pairs of towers here.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37- It doesn't quite - have the symmetry of Beaumaris...
0:20:37 > 0:20:41- ..but it's hard to see its glory - now that it's such a ruin.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- This was a big castle.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48- Few realize that Rhuddlan Castle - is so interesting.
0:20:49 > 0:20:53- It played a key role in the history - of the conquest of Wales.
0:20:54 > 0:20:57- It's the only - imperfect lozenge in Wales.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00- Yes, though further research - is needed.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05- Viewer, if you know of another - imperfect lozenge, let us know!
0:21:07 > 0:21:12- Edward I spent heavily - on strong defences in Rhuddlan...
0:21:12 > 0:21:17- ..in a bid to ensure it was the seat - of the bishop of the north-east.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21- He asked the Pope to recognize it - as the centre of a bishopric...
0:21:22 > 0:21:24- ..at the expense of St Asaph.
0:21:24 > 0:21:28- Two miles south of Rhuddlan Castle - is St Asaph Cathedral.
0:21:28 > 0:21:33- The smallest cathedral in Britain - is one of John's 100 places to see.
0:21:34 > 0:21:37- St Asaph Cathedral - was destroyed by fire in 1282.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42- This gave substance to the idea - that a fresh start should be made...
0:21:43 > 0:21:45- ..at a more defensible location.
0:21:45 > 0:21:50- The Pope didn't reply and what you - see is the shell of the building...
0:21:50 > 0:21:53- ..erected between 1284 and 1391...
0:21:53 > 0:21:58- ..together with the renovation work - of George Gilbert Scott...
0:21:58 > 0:22:00- ..between 1867 and 1875.
0:22:02 > 0:22:06- The stalls and their canopies - date back to the 15th century.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- These may be the most interesting - of the surviving medieval items.
0:22:12 > 0:22:17- The ornamentation at the top - dates back to 1480.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- They're old parts of this cathedral.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28- The rest of the chancel - looks just as it did...
0:22:28 > 0:22:30- ..in the 1870s.
0:22:42 > 0:22:48- This is a copy of the first Welsh - translation of the Bible from 1588.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- Yes, it's part of the library - of St Asaph Cathedral.
0:22:54 > 0:22:59- William Morgan, who translated it - into Welsh, was a bishop here.
0:22:59 > 0:23:01- He's buried here somewhere.
0:23:01 > 0:23:06- There's a memorial to him - and to the other translators outside.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09- The Translators' Chapel is here...
0:23:10 > 0:23:14- ..so it's fitting - that they have a copy.
0:23:14 > 0:23:18- It's amazing to see it here, - in such good condition.
0:23:18 > 0:23:23- The Old Testament's frontispiece - has gone but otherwise it's complete.
0:23:23 > 0:23:29- Someone has been busy writing - some sort of graffiti on the pages!
0:23:29 > 0:23:34- They didn't realize its importance, - so they doodled on the pages!
0:23:34 > 0:23:36- Graffiti, over the centuries.
0:23:37 > 0:23:38- Yes. Isn't that wonderful?
0:24:17 > 0:24:20- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones