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0:00:22 > 0:00:26- This week, we visit St David's, - John Davies's favourite place.
0:00:26 > 0:00:30- I'll walk around Haverfordwest - and go back to the Iron Age...
0:00:31 > 0:00:33- ..at Castell Henllys.
0:00:33 > 0:00:38- We'll see our most famous monument - and enjoy photos of Foel Drygarn.
0:00:39 > 0:00:43- First, John joins me - at one of our less famous castles.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53- Pembroke had the only Anglo-Norman - castle in the south-west...
0:00:54 > 0:00:58- ..that was never seriously - threatened by Welsh forces.
0:00:58 > 0:01:03- That's why invaders held power - in southern Dyfed from 1090 onwards.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- From the top of the castle keep, - we can see the whole of Pembroke.
0:01:08 > 0:01:13- This long street was once - within the castle walls, of course.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18- What was the original significance - of Pembroke Castle?
0:01:19 > 0:01:22- The story begins - in the late 11th century.
0:01:22 > 0:01:26- The Montgomery family - swept through here from Shrewsbury.
0:01:26 > 0:01:31- They came through Montgomery, - which was named after them...
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- ..through Powys and Ceredigion - to southern Dyfed.
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- They built a palisade of stakes - and turf across a promontory...
0:01:40 > 0:01:44- ..bounded by a tributary - of the River Cleddau.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47- The round keep - is the most striking feature.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51- It was erected - in the late 12th century.
0:01:51 > 0:01:55- It may be the first round keep - to be built in Britain.
0:01:55 > 0:01:57- It's around 75 feet high...
0:01:58 > 0:02:03- ..and reflects a fashionable form - of French military architecture.
0:02:03 > 0:02:06- The fact that it is round - made it easier to defend.
0:02:06 > 0:02:10- We must mention - an important event in its history.
0:02:11 > 0:02:18- The castle came into the possession - of Jasper Tudor in 1452.
0:02:19 > 0:02:24- He was the Earl of Pembroke - and the half-brother of Henry VI.
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- He came here with his sister-in-law - and she gave birth here.
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- She was only 14 years old - when she gave birth to a baby boy.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35- It was a painful birth, - by all accounts.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- The child, of course, - was Henry Tudor...
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..who went on - to become King Henry VII.
0:02:43 > 0:02:47- He's one of three Kings of England - to be born in Wales.
0:02:48 > 0:02:53- There are waxwork models here - that portray the story of the birth.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- They're worth seeing and I think - that we should do so right away.
0:02:59 > 0:03:04- The people of Pembroke supported - Parliament in the first Civil War...
0:03:05 > 0:03:07- ..and the Crown in the second.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- Cromwell himself led the bloody - siege of the castle in 1648.
0:03:14 > 0:03:17- This is the floor - beneath the Great Hall.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- Yes, the Great Hall - was on the first floor.
0:03:21 > 0:03:23- It was built in around 1250...
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- ..and was the focal point - of the castle.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30- The old hall next door - is a century older than this one.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33- It may be - the oldest part of the castle.
0:03:34 > 0:03:36- This is the space - in which they feasted.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- The main feature - of this part of the building...
0:03:40 > 0:03:44- ..is the huge cavern - that lies beneath our feet.
0:03:44 > 0:03:46- Yes, this is Wogan Cavern.
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- They keep Terry Wogan here - when he's not on the radio!
0:04:09 > 0:04:14- The history of this cave goes back - much further than the castle itself.
0:04:14 > 0:04:18- Yes, Mesolithic items - were found here.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- That's the period - between the Old Stone Age...
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- ..and the Neolithic or New Stone Age.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- Whole families must have lived here.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31- What's the Wogan connection?
0:04:32 > 0:04:35- The Wogan family - has close links with this area.
0:04:36 > 0:04:40- One Wogan was a Member of Parliament - during the Civil War.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- He was executed for advocating - the beheading of Charles I.
0:04:45 > 0:04:47- A branch of the family - went to Ireland...
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- ..and produced - some broadcasting stars.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- We continue to Pembroke Dock.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- Lord Nelson called it - one of the world's finest harbours.
0:04:58 > 0:05:03- The Defensible Barracks create - a townscape without parallel.
0:05:07 > 0:05:11- Pembroke Dock - must be Pembroke's poor relation.
0:05:11 > 0:05:15- Well, Pembroke itself - doesn't look too prosperous.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17- In the mid 19th century...
0:05:18 > 0:05:22- ..Pembroke Dock was bigger - and more affluent than Pembroke.
0:05:22 > 0:05:27- Remarkably, this is the only - government-designed town...
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- ..since Edward I built Caernarfon - and Conwy in the 13th century.
0:05:33 > 0:05:38- They built a new town here in 1810 - to build wooden sailing ships...
0:05:38 > 0:05:43- ..with copper bottoms, - using sheeting from Swansea.
0:05:43 > 0:05:45- Around 280 ships were built here.
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- It was bombed mercilessly in 1940 - and fires burned for 18 days.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- It was the worst fire in Britain - since the Great Fire of London.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59- I'd like to add - one more interesting fact.
0:05:59 > 0:06:03- The Millennium Falcon - from the Star Wars films...
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- ..was built in one of those hangars.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08- What pointless trivia!
0:06:09 > 0:06:14- You can sail up the Western Cleddau - from the sea to Haverfordwest...
0:06:14 > 0:06:17- ..but I'll drive there - in my red car.
0:06:38 > 0:06:42- If the number of parishes within - a town is a barometer of wealth...
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- ..Haverfordwest - must have flourished at one time.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- There are three parishes - within the town walls.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- There are only two in Cardiff!
0:06:52 > 0:06:58- The Church of St Thomas a Becket, - St Mary's Church, where I am now...
0:06:58 > 0:07:02- ..and over there is - the Church of St Martin of Tours.
0:07:02 > 0:07:03- He wasn't a travel agent!
0:07:04 > 0:07:08- Haverfordwest is in the heart - of Pembrokeshire...
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- ..and that in itself - makes it important.
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- The Western Cleddau - is navigable up to Haverfordwest.
0:07:16 > 0:07:21- The combination of a pilgrims' path - to St David's and the river...
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- ..makes Haverfordwest - geographically important.
0:07:47 > 0:07:52- Tabernacle Chapel was built in 1774 - and restored in 1874.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- It has always been - an English chapel.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- Originally - a Calvinistic Methodist chapel...
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- ..it is now - a Congregationalist chapel.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07- John Gambold, - the Welsh-speaker from Puncheston...
0:08:08 > 0:08:11- ..who wrote many Welsh hymns, - worshipped here.
0:08:12 > 0:08:17- His work was lambasted because North - Walians didn't understand the words!
0:08:28 > 0:08:33- It's unclear who built - the original Haverfordwest Castle.
0:08:33 > 0:08:37- Some say that it was - the Dutch Tancred family.
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- Others say that it was the Normans.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- We know that the Tancreds - lived here by the 13th century.
0:08:43 > 0:08:48- Most of the remains date back - to the time of Eleanor of Castile...
0:08:48 > 0:08:49- ..the wife of Edward I.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- In 1284, she expressed a desire - to rebuild it...
0:08:53 > 0:08:55- ..and make it fit for a queen.
0:08:55 > 0:09:00- She borrowed 407, which was - an enormous sum of money...
0:09:00 > 0:09:02- ..to rebuild this castle.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- It was known at one time - as Queen's Castle Haverford.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10- The reason - for its state of disrepair...
0:09:10 > 0:09:17- ..is that the destructive lunatic - Oliver Cromwell came upon it.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- He ordered that the castle - be demolished.
0:09:21 > 0:09:26- A hand-written letter ordering - that action is in the record office.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- That's why the castle - is in such a poor condition.
0:09:36 > 0:09:41- The steep streets of Haverfordwest - are full of outstanding buildings.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- Foley House, - designed by John Nash...
0:09:45 > 0:09:49- ..is one of the finest examples - of Regency architecture in Wales.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- The Augustinian priory...
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- ..was built by the Western Cleddau - in the 13th century.
0:10:07 > 0:10:12- It stood here for 300 years, - until Henry VIII dissolved it.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- It then became a quarry - for anyone building a house locally.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21- It's perhaps surprising - that so much of it remains.
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0:10:43 > 0:10:47- This week, Marian Delyth's - brilliant photographs...
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- ..lead us across the slopes - of Foel Drygarn.
0:10:51 > 0:10:54- These are the first photographs - I took.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56- As I climbed Foel Drygarn...
0:10:57 > 0:11:00- ..I thought of Preseli, - Waldo Williams's famous poem.
0:11:04 > 0:11:08- "The wall of my childhood, Foel - Drygarn, Carn Gyfrwy, Tal Mynydd
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- "At my back - in all independence of mind."
0:11:13 > 0:11:15- They're highly emotional words.
0:11:16 > 0:11:20- I then tried to create images - that suited those words.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- They weren't included in the book.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26- They're more apt - for a book of poetry.
0:11:26 > 0:11:30- It wasn't my brief to depict - Waldo's poetry in 100 Places.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38- Tell me about the photographs - that you did choose.
0:11:40 > 0:11:44- I chose shots that reflect - the Preseli's beauty.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49- There's nowhere to compare - with the area on a summer's day.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- Morning mist is always beautiful...
0:11:53 > 0:11:57- ..and the tranquillity - of that early hour is special.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- I took these photographs - before the day was fully awake.
0:12:08 > 0:12:13- Later that afternoon, there - are other shots of the same area...
0:12:13 > 0:12:16- ..with Foel Drygarn - in the background.
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- Those fields look really organized.
0:12:19 > 0:12:21- Those fields look really organized.- - Yes, that's true.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25- I wanted to emphasize - that it's an agricultural area.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27- It's not just uncultured land.
0:12:27 > 0:12:32- A community has bloomed - around the farming industry.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- As I was climbing Foel Drygarn...
0:12:43 > 0:12:48- ..I noticed someone coming - over the top on a mountain bike.
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- As well as being - visually interesting...
0:12:52 > 0:12:57- ..it's amazing to think of people - cycling over Foel Drygarn today...
0:12:57 > 0:13:01- ..where there are traces - of human activity in 1500BC.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- That concept of a 21st-century - cyclist on historical land...
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- ..is interesting.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12- I also think that it's fitting - to include it in a book...
0:13:12 > 0:13:17- ..where John has focused on places - where human activity is evident.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- It's wonderful to see - that tiny figure on the horizon.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- This chapter in the book - is entitled Pentre Ifan...
0:14:01 > 0:14:06- ..but it also includes - other places of interest...
0:14:06 > 0:14:08- ..en route to the main attraction.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- We begin here, at Castell Henllys.
0:14:21 > 0:14:26- You can see how Iron Age people - lived in several sites across Wales.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30- There's an Iron Age village - at St Fagans, for example.
0:14:30 > 0:14:35- Castell Henllys stands on the site - of an Iron Age hill fort.
0:14:35 > 0:14:40- These posts have been sunk into - holes bored over 2,000 years ago.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- We know how big these houses were...
0:14:45 > 0:14:50- ..because rain dripping from the - roof created circles on the floor.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- It's incredible - that this sort of evidence exists...
0:14:54 > 0:14:56- ..over 2,000 years later.
0:14:58 > 0:15:00- There are several buildings here.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- Each has a different function.
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- This is a communal building - that was used as a kitchen.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- Another roundhouse was used - as a granary.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- This is thought to have been - the home of the tribe leader.
0:15:17 > 0:15:21- It's bigger and more luxurious - than the other roundhouses.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- There are wall paintings - and benches.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- There's also a bed - behind those curtains.
0:15:29 > 0:15:35- You can see the sophistication - needed to build a roundhouse...
0:15:35 > 0:15:40- ..and an understanding of when to - cut trees and when to let them grow.
0:15:40 > 0:15:45- There's also an educational element - to Castell Henllys, which is great.
0:16:12 > 0:16:16- This is St Brynach's Church - in the village of Nevern.
0:16:16 > 0:16:19- We're a bit stingy - with our bishops nowadays...
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- ..but there were once seven - in Dyfed alone.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- This was the seat of one of them.
0:16:25 > 0:16:30- The most striking thing - about the church and its cemetery...
0:16:30 > 0:16:32- ..is this Celtic cross.
0:16:32 > 0:16:37- It's 13 feet high and comes in two - sections, joined by a mortise.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- Surprisingly, despite it being - over 1,000 years old...
0:16:41 > 0:16:43- ..we can still - see the patterns clearly.
0:17:06 > 0:17:10- Of the 100 plus - burial chambers in Wales...
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- ..Pentre Ifan is the most famous - because of its prime location.
0:17:14 > 0:17:18- It's great to think - that the chamber's designer...
0:17:19 > 0:17:24- ..placed this 16-ton stone - delicately on the other stones.
0:17:24 > 0:17:27- Was it part of the fine design?
0:17:27 > 0:17:32- No, because the whole structure - was covered in soil and grass.
0:17:33 > 0:17:38- Over the 3,500 years since - it was built, the land has eroded.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42- The only things still standing - are these magnificent stones.
0:17:43 > 0:17:44- It's a work of art.
0:18:00 > 0:18:05- This journey ends in St David's, - where I'm joined again by John.
0:18:05 > 0:18:07- St David's is our most magical city.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- It's close to Welsh hearts - but far from everywhere.
0:18:35 > 0:18:40- You wrote about 100 places, - but St David's is very dear to you.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46- If I had to choose just one place - in Wales to see before you die...
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..it would be the cathedral - and Bishop's Palace in St David's.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55- The surrounding countryside - is also rich with ancient relics.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58- We're standing - in a hallowed location...
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- ..in the history of Wales - and of its people.
0:19:02 > 0:19:04- It's always a privilege to be here.
0:19:05 > 0:19:07- There was a wall - around these buildings.
0:19:08 > 0:19:10- It was a kind of fort.
0:19:10 > 0:19:15- There was nothing here except - the cathedral, Bishop's Palace...
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- ..the canons' houses - and a wall around them.
0:19:19 > 0:19:23- It has been suggested that the wall - was there to keep canons in...
0:19:23 > 0:19:28- ..so that they wouldn't get out - and do less than respectable things!
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- The wall may have been to protect - the public from the canons!
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- The place was built - as a memorial to Saint David...
0:19:36 > 0:19:39- ..who worked here - in the 6th century.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43- We now think of St David's - as a remote city...
0:19:43 > 0:19:48- ..but back in the 6th century, - it was like Piccadilly Circus here!
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- It was on the main seafaring route - from west to east.
0:19:52 > 0:19:57- This area linked Wales with Ireland, - Brittany, Cornwall and Scotland.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- It was at the heart - of the Celtic world.
0:20:00 > 0:20:05- The Pope apparently said - that two pilgrimages to here...
0:20:05 > 0:20:07- ..was the equivalent of one to Rome.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11- When the Spanish post office - published stamps...
0:20:11 > 0:20:16- ..showing the pilgrims' route - to Santiago de Compostela...
0:20:16 > 0:20:18- ..one of them featured St David's.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- It only cost five pesetas, - which was insultingly cheap!
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- We're at the most easterly point - of the cathedral.
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- Many of the tombs are here...
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- ..and this may be - the most important of them.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- This is Edmund Tudor, - the father of Henry VII...
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- ..and the grandfather of Henry VIII.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- He was buried - at Carmarthen's Greyfriars' priory.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- His grandson dissolved the priory, - so he was moved here.
0:21:17 > 0:21:20- He lies here in a prime position, - in front of the high altar.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- There's a far more important shrine - over there.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- It's the shrine of St David, - which was created in 1275...
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- ..when they happened to find - the remains of Saint David.
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- It's believed that they found - some elements of his bones...
0:21:40 > 0:21:44- ..and those remains - lie in a small box over there.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- It's Saint David's ashtray!
0:21:47 > 0:21:51- You can see parts of the box - behind the altar.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- Behind us here is the choir, - the heart of the cathedral.
0:21:57 > 0:22:00- The bishop's throne - tells you that this is a cathedral.
0:22:00 > 0:22:05- It's known as a cathedra - and dates back to the 14th century.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07- It's one of the oldest in the UK.
0:22:08 > 0:22:12- This is a cathedral - because of that cathedra.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- Before you leave, be sure to see - the effigy of Lord Rhys...
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- ..and the statue of Gerallt Gymro.
0:22:27 > 0:22:31- Bishop's Palace was built - by Henry Gower in the 14th century.
0:22:31 > 0:22:36- The arched parapets and rose window - are truly breathtaking.
0:22:38 > 0:22:43- The postmodern visitors' centre - is a good starting point...
0:22:44 > 0:22:47- ..but where better to finish - than looking out to sea?
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- Our pilgrimage ends here...
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- ..overlooking the birthplace - of Saint David.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57- Yes, and enjoying the splendour - of St Brides Bay...
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- ..and the sunset over the islands.
0:23:01 > 0:23:05- St Non's Well is nearby, - though it's a 19th century addition.
0:23:07 > 0:23:11- Below it is St Non's Chapel, - mentioned in the 14th century.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14- It's older than that.
0:23:14 > 0:23:19- There are dressed stones there - from centuries before then.
0:23:19 > 0:23:24- Tradition has it that Saint David was - born there in the early 6th century.
0:23:25 > 0:23:28- He was born - on a viciously stormy night...
0:23:28 > 0:23:30- ..right here in St Non's Chapel.
0:23:30 > 0:23:35- It's very fitting that we're here - to pay our respects to him.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:10 > 0:24:10- .