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0:00:22 > 0:00:25- In this programme, - we visit Wales's only new town.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29- We also discover - Newport's answer to Versailles.
0:00:29 > 0:00:33- Marian Delyth introduces us - to the Gwent Levels.
0:00:33 > 0:00:39- We also visit a grotto in Pontypool, - but our odyssey begins in Caerleon.
0:00:41 > 0:00:44- Welcome to 100 Lle.
0:01:05 > 0:01:09- What was the significance - of Caerleon as a Roman centre?
0:01:09 > 0:01:12- It was one - of three legionary fortresses.
0:01:13 > 0:01:17- They were the chief strongholds - of Roman power in Britannia.
0:01:17 > 0:01:22- Those three legionary fortresses - were Caerleon, Chester and York.
0:01:23 > 0:01:25- What makes this different?
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- Caerleon is the only place - in northern Europe...
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- ..where Roman barracks' foundations - are visible.
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- A Roman legion - was made up of 5,000 soldiers.
0:01:40 > 0:01:45- A building such as this would house - a century, a unit of 80 men.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- Roman architecture - was very sophisticated.
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- On this site, they even discovered - the remains of bread ovens.
0:02:04 > 0:02:08- There's an array of Roman remains - in Caerleon...
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- ..but the most obvious - has to be the amphitheatre.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16- Yes, I think it's the most - obviously Roman thing in Britain.
0:02:17 > 0:02:20- There's nothing quite like it - anywhere else.
0:02:20 > 0:02:25- It's the only amphitheatre - in Britain to be totally excavated.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- There are striking amphitheatres - in Rome, Verona and Nimes...
0:02:30 > 0:02:32- ..but this was - almost on a par with them.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- The walls were higher than this, - of course...
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- ..and it seated 6,000 people.
0:02:38 > 0:02:43- There was room here for everyone - who lived and worked in the fortress.
0:02:44 > 0:02:49- It was probably mainly used - for military training...
0:02:49 > 0:02:53- ..but it was also used - for entertainment purposes.
0:02:53 > 0:02:58- They kept wild animals here - to set upon Christians and the like.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- The Romans were fond of cruel sports.
0:03:05 > 0:03:09- Legend has it that there was a link - between Caerleon and King Arthur.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- Mortimer Wheeler, the archaeologist, - used this tale...
0:03:14 > 0:03:19- ..to persuade the Daily Mail - to finance the site's excavation.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- That work took place in the 1920s.
0:03:26 > 0:03:31- In 1985, a cover protecting part - of the bath house was completed.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- The original bath house - was three times bigger than this.
0:03:38 > 0:03:41- The main swimming pool seen here...
0:03:41 > 0:03:45- ..is almost as long - as an Olympic-size swimming pool.
0:03:45 > 0:03:50- There's also what we would now call - a Turkish bath.
0:03:50 > 0:03:55- The frigidarium, the warm area - and the hot area were housed there.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58- You'd move - from one room to the next...
0:03:58 > 0:04:03- ..perspiring ever more heavily - under your thick coat of olive oil.
0:04:03 > 0:04:09- You would then have the oil - scraped off, leaving you clean.
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- These are the best remains - of a Roman bath in Britain.
0:04:14 > 0:04:19- There's a good example in Paris, - but this is the best in Britain.
0:04:19 > 0:04:23- It's all been excavated, - which is wonderful...
0:04:24 > 0:04:27- ..but it's also been crafted - into an experience.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- We can imagine - how people swam up and down here.
0:04:31 > 0:04:35- Yes, and some great work - has been carried out here.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- I remember coming here - in the late 1950s...
0:04:38 > 0:04:41- ..and this area - was concealed under soil.
0:04:41 > 0:04:46- The norm was to excavate, - investigate then replace the soil.
0:04:46 > 0:04:48- Cadw has done great work here.
0:04:48 > 0:04:53- When you stand here, it feels as if - you're seeing a real swimming pool.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- There are also some odd-looking - people swimming in the water.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- Our Roman tour ends here, - at the museum in Caerleon.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40- Here, we get a clearer picture - of how Romans lived and died.
0:05:41 > 0:05:42- Yes, that's true.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- There are tombstones and bodies - within this wonderful building.
0:05:49 > 0:05:52- It resembles a Roman temple - and was built in 1850.
0:05:52 > 0:05:57- The people of Caerleon always took - a keen interest in their history.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02- It proves that they were very proud - of their Roman connections...
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- ..and they've done a great job - with this wonderful museum.
0:06:08 > 0:06:10- Every aspect of Roman life - is covered.
0:06:10 > 0:06:12- Yes, undoubtedly.
0:06:15 > 0:06:20- On the way to Cwmbran, it's worth - visiting Llantarnam Abbey.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24- At the back of the mansion, - there's a unique chapel...
0:06:25 > 0:06:30- ..influenced by the work - of modern architect Le Corbusier.
0:06:31 > 0:06:36- There has been a religious building - here since the 12th century...
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- ..when there was - a Cistercian monastery here.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- With the 1536 Dissolution, - it went to rack and ruin.
0:06:44 > 0:06:49- The current building's facade - was built in the 19th century.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- It was built by Reginald Blewitt - in 1834.
0:06:52 > 0:06:55- The place was put up for sale - in the 1940s...
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- ..and it became a convent in 1946.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- That Christian circle - is once again complete.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- This chapel, with its concrete - arches, was built a decade later.
0:07:07 > 0:07:12- The lattice work and the cupola - behind the altar are wonderful.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19- This contemporary building - leads us perfectly...
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- ..to the optimism - of the architecture of Cwmbran.
0:07:28 > 0:07:33- When work started on the designs - for Cwmbran in the 1950s...
0:07:33 > 0:07:35- ..the work was revolutionary.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- Cwmbran is a symbol - of 1950s architects' willingness...
0:07:39 > 0:07:41- ..to adopt modern designs.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45- They were influenced - by the American Radburn system...
0:07:45 > 0:07:49- ..which separates pedestrians - from cars.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54- There is no greater vote of faith in - the future than building a new town.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- It wasn't built to oppress people, - as in Edward I's day...
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- ..but to create - living and work space.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- It was decided that a new town, - decked in concrete...
0:08:07 > 0:08:09- ..should be built in Cwmbran...
0:08:09 > 0:08:14- ..in accordance with the 1945 Labour - government's social planning vision.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- In the 1940s, - 14,000 people lived in the area.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- By 2001, Cwmbran - had over 40,000 inhabitants.
0:08:21 > 0:08:25- It's in the top ten of Wales's - biggest towns and in our top 100.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- Pathways were created - and that was an innovation.
0:08:40 > 0:08:46- The large houses were all within - walking distance of local amenities.
0:08:47 > 0:08:52- Cast concrete makes it look - more Californian than Welsh.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05- JCP West was the chief architect of - Cwmbran Development Corporation...
0:09:06 > 0:09:08- ..between 1950 and 1962.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11- He sought to create - an island of capitalism.
0:09:11 > 0:09:16- Relatively few people owned cars - and there were no motorways...
0:09:16 > 0:09:21- ..but JCP West could see a time - when traffic would swamp towns.
0:09:21 > 0:09:23- He created a retail island.
0:09:24 > 0:09:28- Cars and buses go around the edges, - almost like chariots.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33- Amazingly, that plan - still works effectively today.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- It was totally revolutionary, - at the time.
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0:10:07 > 0:10:11- A lot of a photographer's work - is done in a studio...
0:10:11 > 0:10:14- ..but you're lucky - to have this extra resource.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- You have a mobile studio, Marian.
0:10:18 > 0:10:21- Yes. I'd struggle to do my work - without it.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25- I take shots early in the morning - and late at night.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30- This van is my second home - for three-quarters of the year.
0:10:32 > 0:10:36- We're parked up in Ynys-las, - looking across at Aberdyfi...
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- ..but we're going to talk - about the Gwent Levels.
0:10:41 > 0:10:46- Yes, that wonderful area of land - around Cardiff and Newport.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- The landscape - looks more Dutch than Welsh.
0:10:51 > 0:10:55- In the book, John mentions - that, since Roman times...
0:10:55 > 0:11:00- ..people have tried to control the - sea and keep it away from the land.
0:11:04 > 0:11:10- In the 19th century, a network - of canals and drains was created...
0:11:10 > 0:11:13- ..to drain the water - away from the land.
0:11:13 > 0:11:17- This created - a very unusual landscape for Wales.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- There are villages - and churches there too.
0:11:22 > 0:11:25- That's unusual on such flat land.
0:11:25 > 0:11:26- That's unusual on such flat land.- - They're hidden gems.
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- How many Cardiffians know - about these glorious villages?
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- The churches are also really pretty.
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- I photographed several churches...
0:11:38 > 0:11:42- ..but only St Brides Wentlooge - church made it into the book.
0:11:44 > 0:11:48- In addition to the usual images - you see in a church...
0:11:48 > 0:11:54- ..a plaque there commemorates - the great flood of 1606.
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- You feel as though - you're stepping into history...
0:12:06 > 0:12:09- ..in the tranquillity - of these churches.
0:12:14 > 0:12:18- Having photographed the churches, - I went to the sea defences.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20- It's popular with walkers.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- I enjoyed seeing the patterns - created by people as they walk.
0:12:29 > 0:12:34- It's a continuation of the theme - of people as one with the landscape.
0:12:42 > 0:12:46- What I find interesting - in this photograph...
0:12:46 > 0:12:51- ..is that the country and the town, - or the country and the city...
0:12:51 > 0:12:53- ..have come together in one frame.
0:12:53 > 0:12:56- It creates a funny situation.
0:12:58 > 0:13:03- The animals seem baffled - by people taking a Sunday stroll.
0:13:03 > 0:13:08- I also like the industrial landscape - in the background...
0:13:08 > 0:13:14- ..in contrast with the agricultural - scene in the foreground.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47- We now move on - to the western fringe of Newport.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- In his book, John says that - it's worth seeing the IOR factory...
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- ..which produces microchips.
0:13:55 > 0:14:00- This unusual building is comparable - with the Pompidou Centre in Paris.
0:14:01 > 0:14:06- Staying with the French theme, - we go from an industrial marvel...
0:14:06 > 0:14:10- ..to a mansion that some say - resembles the palace of Versailles.
0:14:11 > 0:14:16- Welcome to a glorious Welsh mansion, - which was built in the 17th century.
0:14:16 > 0:14:21- It could be said to be the finest - building ever erected in Wales.
0:14:21 > 0:14:25- Tredegar House - was the home of the Morgan family.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- We don't know who built this house - or who designed it.
0:14:29 > 0:14:34- We suspect that it's by Roger - and William Hurlbutt of Warwick...
0:14:35 > 0:14:40- ..but only because it's similar - to other buildings designed by them.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44- Some think that it was designed - by a local carpenter or mason.
0:14:47 > 0:14:52- Before you enter the house, - it's hard to ignore the gates.
0:14:52 > 0:14:57- They were designed by William and - Simon Edney between 1714 and 1718.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- They cost 1,000, - which was a fortune 300 years ago.
0:15:04 > 0:15:09- As you enter the house and walk - through the assembly hall...
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- ..on your right is the Brown Room.
0:15:13 > 0:15:15- It's exceptionally brown!
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- Every wall is covered - in exquisitely carved oak.
0:15:20 > 0:15:23- This was the formal dining room.
0:15:24 > 0:15:27- The interior is probably - as old as the house.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31- The idea was that dinner guests - would marvel at this carpentry.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- It demonstrated great wealth - and a sense of style.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39- There's one confusing feature here.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- There are two carved heads - on the panel at the far end.
0:15:44 > 0:15:49- They're thought to depict Charles I, - dressed as a mouse or as a cat.
0:15:50 > 0:15:52- Charles I was beheaded, of course.
0:15:53 > 0:15:55- This house - wouldn't have been built...
0:15:56 > 0:16:00- ..had the monarchy not been restored - under Charles II.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- Why then would the owner - of this house mock Charles I?
0:16:09 > 0:16:13- It was probably humorous, - but not everyone would laugh!
0:16:16 > 0:16:21- The Gilt Room is the complete - opposite of the Brown Room.
0:16:23 > 0:16:27- Evan Morgan turned this room - into a Catholic chapel.
0:16:28 > 0:16:32- He was the last of the Morgan family - to live in Tredegar House.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36- He was a colourful character - who wrestled kangaroos!
0:16:36 > 0:16:38- He also hosted wild parties.
0:16:43 > 0:16:45- This is the master bedroom.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- The master, in this case, - being Sir William Morgan...
0:16:50 > 0:16:53- ..who built the house - as it is today.
0:16:53 > 0:16:57- In this bed, - or in a bed similar to this...
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- ..his wife, Elizabeth Dayrell, - twice tried to kill him.
0:17:02 > 0:17:07- She attacked him with an axe - and burned his hair in that grate.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10- She was dispatched to Bedlam.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13- There's a cedar closet - at the far end of the room.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17- The head of the family - would dress in there...
0:17:17 > 0:17:21- ..and he would hold discussions - and share secrets in there.
0:17:21 > 0:17:27- Should those secrets come out - of the closet, there'd be trouble.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- As John says in the book...
0:17:39 > 0:17:43- ..it's worth coming here - just to see the Great Staircase...
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- ..but this, our Versailles Palace, - has so much more to offer...
0:17:48 > 0:17:52- ..and it's just off the M4, - under our noses.
0:18:25 > 0:18:30- Several towns in Gwent represent - the future and all its vivacity...
0:18:30 > 0:18:34- ..but Pontypool seems very much - to hark back to past glories.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39- I'm sure that local people hope - Pontypool also represents the future.
0:18:39 > 0:18:44- This was the launching pad for the - industrialization of South Wales.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46- Tinplate was invented here.
0:18:47 > 0:18:51- That's the process of layering - steel and tin to prevent rust.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- Pontypool - has the richest collection...
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- ..of 18th and early 19th century - buildings in Wales.
0:19:01 > 0:19:06- By the mid 19th century, Merthyr - and the like had overtaken Pontypool.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10- ..but, in many respects, - this was the starting point.
0:19:10 > 0:19:15- This was the only large town - within the South Wales coalfield...
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- ..during the 18th century.
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- The Hanburys, - a family of industrial pioneers...
0:19:24 > 0:19:27- ..made a huge contribution - to Pontypool.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- The family first settled here - in 1565.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- Their land has now been gifted - to the town...
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- ..and their mansion - is a secondary school.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- The local museum - is housed in the old stables.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- The most obvious sign of the wealth - of the Hanbury family...
0:19:48 > 0:19:49- ..are these stables.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- The publication - Buildings Of Monmouthshire...
0:19:53 > 0:19:56- ..noted that the stables - were better than the house!
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- The horses - had better living conditions...
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- ..than most - of the Hanburys' tenants.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- The stables have now been turned...
0:20:06 > 0:20:09- ..into what is perhaps - the best local museum in Wales.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- Perhaps the most striking thing here - is the Pontypool Japanware...
0:20:15 > 0:20:17- ..that was produced and painted here.
0:20:19 > 0:20:21- It was very expensive.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39- This is the grotto, John.
0:20:39 > 0:20:42- You can only marvel - at its over-the-topness!
0:20:43 > 0:20:45- Over-the-topness is the word!
0:20:46 > 0:20:48- It was constructed - during the 1830s...
0:20:49 > 0:20:53- Such buildings are usually - 18th century creations.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- It was old-fashioned - by the time it was constructed...
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- ..but it suggests that - the Capel Hanburys were a bit odd!
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- Apparently, - they kept a hermit here.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- He had a fireplace - to keep warm in the winter.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- What was the idea - behind keeping a hermit here?
0:21:12 > 0:21:14- Was it like a zoo?
0:21:14 > 0:21:17- Could you come here - and point at the hermit?
0:21:17 > 0:21:22- Yes, and he'd have a long beard - and he'd speak like a primitive man.
0:21:22 > 0:21:23- He was a figure of fun.
0:21:24 > 0:21:28- It's not a kind thing to do, - but it was common practice.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31- The walls are covered in seashells.
0:21:31 > 0:21:35- Apparently, some of them - came from Carmarthenshire...
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- ..and others came from - far-flung corners of the world.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- Even stranger - than the seashell roof...
0:21:43 > 0:21:47- ..is the floor, which is covered - in oxen bones and teeth.
0:21:48 > 0:21:50- I must admit, I like it.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52- It's open every weekend - in the summer.
0:21:53 > 0:21:57- If you want to see - this rather weird wonder of Wales...
0:21:57 > 0:22:00- ..it's certainly worth coming here - for a visit.
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- A weird wonder of Wales!
0:22:15 > 0:22:17- The rain - has defeated us again, John.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20- It will never defeat us!
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- We're here, looking at Folly Tower.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27- It was commissioned by John Hanbury - in 1762.
0:22:27 > 0:22:33- It's further proof of the Hanbury - family's interest in follies.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37- Unfortunately, it was demolished - in 1939...
0:22:38 > 0:22:42- ..because it seemed to point - to the weapons store at Glascoed.
0:22:42 > 0:22:48- People felt it would lead - German bombers to destroy Glascoed.
0:22:49 > 0:22:54- The people of Pontypool were - so enamoured with their folly...
0:22:54 > 0:22:59- ..and so proud of the Hanbury - family's contribution to the area...
0:22:59 > 0:23:01- ..that they decided to rebuild it.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04- It took years to raise the money.
0:23:04 > 0:23:09- They founded CRAFT - Campaign for - Rebuilding the Ancient Folly Tower.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- By 1993, they had raised - enough money to rebuild it.
0:23:14 > 0:23:18- It was completed in 1994 - and is just like the original.
0:23:18 > 0:23:23- It's a great symbol of the pride - that the people of Pontypool take...
0:23:23 > 0:23:25- ..in their town - and in their history.
0:23:26 > 0:23:31- Pontypool should be near the top - of the list of 100 places to see.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones