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0:00:24 > 0:00:29- In this episode of 100 Lle, we visit - Tretower in the old Brecknockshire.
0:00:30 > 0:00:34- We talk about photographs - of Cardigan taken by Marian Delyth.
0:00:35 > 0:00:38- I'll look - at the attractions of Brecon...
0:00:38 > 0:00:44- ..before joining Dr John Davies at - Garn Goch and Carreg Cennen Castle.
0:00:46 > 0:00:49- There is no more beautiful sight...
0:00:49 > 0:00:54- ..than the approach to Llandeilo - across the bridge from Ffair-fach.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56- I should know - I live here!
0:01:14 > 0:01:18- We're standing in the cemetery - in the centre of Llandeilo, John.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24- This cemetery was split in two - by a new road in the 19th century.
0:01:25 > 0:01:30- Its size suggests that it has been - a sacred place for centuries.
0:01:32 > 0:01:37- Its circular shape suggests - it had ritual significance...
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- ..even before - the birth of Christianity.
0:01:41 > 0:01:45- Llandeilo is, of course, - named after Saint Teilo.
0:01:45 > 0:01:50- He was one of the great saints - of the Celtic and Welsh tradition.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- Like Saint David, - Teilo was a 6th century saint.
0:01:53 > 0:01:59- By the 12th century, 25 Welsh parish - churches were dedicated to Teilo...
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- ..but there was only one - Llandeilo Fawr, or Great Llandeilo.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07- The people of Llandeilo love paint!
0:02:08 > 0:02:13- Llandeilo is almost as attractive - as Aberaeron and Llandovery!
0:02:13 > 0:02:15- It's definitely improving!
0:02:15 > 0:02:17- Thank you!
0:02:19 > 0:02:23- The main attraction at St Teilo's - Church is the exhibition...
0:02:24 > 0:02:29- ..covering the history and contents - of the St Chad Gospels.
0:02:29 > 0:02:34- This 9th century book is now kept - at St Chad's Cathedral, Lichfield.
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- It's believed that the altar - at Llandeilo was its original home.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- This is how the book looks. - We can turn its 236 pages.
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- It consists of the Latin text - of the gospels of Matthew and Mark...
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- ..and part of that of Luke.
0:02:50 > 0:02:55- Some believe that this document - was compiled here in Llandeilo.
0:02:55 > 0:03:00- Parts of it are so similar to what - was compiled on Lindisfarne...
0:03:00 > 0:03:04- ..that it may come from the school - based on Ireland and Lindisfarne.
0:03:04 > 0:03:09- That's probably where it originated, - but it came to Llandeilo.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- Or, at least, - it came to the altar of St Teilo...
0:03:14 > 0:03:17- ..which some interpret - as a reference to Llandaff.
0:03:17 > 0:03:22- Notes in the margins - suggest connections with this area...
0:03:22 > 0:03:26- ..so I believe it was kept - on the altar in Llandeilo.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- They copied manuscripts - in St David's at the time...
0:03:30 > 0:03:33- ..but nothing of this standard - has survived...
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- ..from any other part of Wales, - other than Llandeilo Fawr.
0:03:38 > 0:03:40- Did they swear oaths - on this document?
0:03:41 > 0:03:44- Yes, you placed your hand upon it - to swear an oath.
0:03:44 > 0:03:49- Paper had disappeared from western - Europe by the ninth century...
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- ..so they used treated calves' skin - as writing material.
0:03:54 > 0:03:55- It was expensive stuff...
0:03:56 > 0:04:00- ..so if there was a blank space, - they'd write on that as well.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- Things such as land deeds - were written in the margins.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- You can see the pages turn - and they're all beautifully neat...
0:04:08 > 0:04:13- ..but later in the book, - the space at the end of a chapter...
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- ..has been used to make notes.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19- Interestingly, the notes - are written in Welsh.
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- It's in the local dialect - and records a land dispute.
0:04:24 > 0:04:27- Later in the book, - the notes are in English.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- That suggests - it was taken to England...
0:04:31 > 0:04:33- ..where they carried on scribbling.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- This is among the earliest surviving - examples of written Welsh.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- It's now in Lichfield - and that's wrong.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- Dinefwr Park, which stands - above Llandeilo...
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- ..was probably the chief centre - of the kingdom of Ystrad Tywi.
0:04:59 > 0:05:04- According to some, the kingdom - existed during Teilo's lifetime.
0:05:08 > 0:05:09- This is Dinefwr Castle.
0:05:09 > 0:05:14- It's fair to say this isn't - the first building erected here.
0:05:15 > 0:05:20- No, an Iron Age fortress - and two Roman fortresses stood here.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- This was always seen - as a strategic stronghold.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26- Dinefwr borders Llandeilo...
0:05:26 > 0:05:30- ..and Llandeilo had grown - as a spiritual centre.
0:05:30 > 0:05:34- The military centre - must have been in Dinefwr.
0:05:35 > 0:05:38- This castle was commissioned - in the 12th century.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- Work was completed - in the 13th century.
0:05:41 > 0:05:45- Lord Rhys and his descendants - carried out the work.
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- The round keep was built - by descendants of Lord Rhys...
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- ..and it was completed - in around 1240.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58- A belvedere was built - on top of the keep in around 1660.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02- This was built - by the Rhys or Rice family...
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- ..that later held - the Dynevor peerage.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- This is the only place to see - Welsh sovereignty built in stone.
0:06:23 > 0:06:29- The jewel in the crown of the castle - and of Newton House is this park.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- Yes, and this is - a very interesting park.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- There was a Welsh borough - on the slopes near the castle.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- That borough disappeared...
0:06:41 > 0:06:44- ..but Newton House still stands.
0:06:44 > 0:06:47- There were two Roman fortresses - beyond it.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- The woodlands are splendid.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54- They were landscaped - by Capability Brown...
0:06:54 > 0:06:56- ..in the 18th century.
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- Some say that he worked hard here...
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- ..but rumour has it he spent - most of his time drinking wine!
0:07:05 > 0:07:08- Local people - take great pride in this park.
0:07:08 > 0:07:12- You're a local. Do you see the park - as part of your heritage?
0:07:12 > 0:07:13- Yes - it belongs to us.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- Yes - it belongs to us.- - Absolutely.
0:07:32 > 0:07:34- Next, to Tretower, Brecknockshire.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- This is the best place to study - the evolution of the dwellings...
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- ..of the powerful families - of medieval Wales.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46- A motte was built - by one of the knights...
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- ..assisting Bernard de Neufmarche...
0:07:49 > 0:07:53- ..in the task of destroying - the kingdom of Brycheiniog.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- What we see here - is 300 years of history.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00- Monsieur Picard came here - in the 11th century...
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- ..and he built the motte.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- He also built a timber palisade, - or a timber castle, around it.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10- It was a wooden curtain wall, - in effect.
0:08:11 > 0:08:15- Fifty years later, his son, John, - built a stone curtain wall.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17- Then, in the 13th century...
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- ..the curtain walls - were demolished...
0:08:21 > 0:08:25- ..and the motte was surrounded - by a tall masonry tower.
0:08:26 > 0:08:28- This gave Tretower its name, - of course.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- As time went on, - enemies faded away...
0:08:32 > 0:08:36- ..and the family didn't need - a fortified castle.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41- That's when the priority shifted - from a fortified home...
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- ..to a more sophisticated dwelling, - Tretower Court.
0:08:48 > 0:08:53- This is the best example in Wales - of a 15th century gentry house.
0:08:53 > 0:08:58- When you look at the rooms, - it's easy to see why a hall house...
0:08:58 > 0:09:02- ..was more appealing than the tower - and the castle.
0:09:03 > 0:09:07- This is the guest wing - and this was the guest lounge.
0:09:07 > 0:09:12- Guests would sleep at the far end - of what is now one long room.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- The wooden partition walls - have disappeared.
0:09:16 > 0:09:18- There was a partition wall here.
0:09:19 > 0:09:22- The beams on this side - of the room were painted red...
0:09:23 > 0:09:27- ..but were plain on the other side, - so they were two separate rooms.
0:09:28 > 0:09:33- Leaves had been painted - in the two corner quadrants.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- That suggests - this was an ornate room.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- You get a stronger suggestion - of just how ornate it was...
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- ..downstairs in the great hall.
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- These are the sorts of ornate, - decorative touches I mean.
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- This colourful piece - is a copy, of course...
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- ..but it's the kind of thing - that was here originally.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- The decorative ceiling - adds to the hall's sumptuous feel.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- The wind braces - add something to the room.
0:10:25 > 0:10:30- Tretower has been restored to its - 15th century glory, through Cadw.
0:10:31 > 0:10:36- It deserves its place among the - 100 places to see before you die.
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0:10:49 > 0:10:52- This week, Marian Delyth's camera...
0:10:52 > 0:10:57- ..focuses on the events - and traditions of Cardigan.
0:11:01 > 0:11:03- In the book, John says...
0:11:04 > 0:11:09- ..that 300 ships were registered - in the port of Cardigan in 1816.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- Both banks of the river - were lined with warehouses.
0:11:16 > 0:11:21- Having heard that, it's natural - for us to start with this image...
0:11:21 > 0:11:25- ..of the river - running through Cardigan.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28- Yes, it puts the place - in its context.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- It's a record of the importance - of the river.
0:11:32 > 0:11:37- The small photograph shows - two warehouses that still stand.
0:11:46 > 0:11:50- I've tried to include - a variety of images in the book.
0:11:50 > 0:11:55- Where there was an opportunity - to include shots of people...
0:11:55 > 0:11:57- ..I seized that opportunity.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- There was ample opportunity - in Cardigan.
0:12:02 > 0:12:05- Barley Saturday - is such an important event.
0:12:05 > 0:12:07- The highlight of the day...
0:12:07 > 0:12:12- ..is when the horses, which have - been judged during the day...
0:12:12 > 0:12:14- ..run through the streets.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- Thousands of people - come out to watch them.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- The town comes alive.
0:12:22 > 0:12:24- I think it's a very exciting event.
0:12:24 > 0:12:28- I've attended Barley Saturday - several times.
0:12:28 > 0:12:33- I wanted to express - that atmosphere in my photographs.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- This is the photograph - I eventually chose.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- It fills a whole page in the book.
0:12:42 > 0:12:46- It expresses the excitement - and the tension of the event.
0:12:47 > 0:12:51- It's no easy task to lead - strong horses through the streets.
0:12:55 > 0:13:00- There's a performance area - on the riverbank in Cardigan.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- Yes, it was redeveloped recently.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07- It's a wonderful space - in which to hold events.
0:13:07 > 0:13:11- A poem by Ceri Wyn Jones - has been carved into the stone.
0:13:11 > 0:13:17- The Welsh National Folk Dance - Society was in Cardigan that day...
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- ..to celebrate its 60th anniversary.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24- As I recorded that event...
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- ..I also spotted a tiny detail, - as you can see here.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36- As I take photographs, my eye - is often drawn to a minute detail.
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- It could be a busy scene, - but I'll pick up on something small.
0:13:42 > 0:13:47- I like the pattern of the lace - against the pattern of the pavement.
0:13:47 > 0:13:52- It's not in the book because - it says nothing about Cardigan...
0:13:54 > 0:13:56- ..but I'm fond of it as an image.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- It's wonderful.
0:14:07 > 0:14:08- Welcome to Brecon.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- This Norman town was built - in the 11th century...
0:14:12 > 0:14:17- ..by Bernard de Neufmarche, - William the Conqueror's brother.
0:14:17 > 0:14:21- Much has happened in Brecon - since then.
0:14:24 > 0:14:29- De Neufmarche chose rising land - on the River Honddu's west bank...
0:14:30 > 0:14:34- ..for his castle, - his fortified town and his church.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38- This trio was central to the power - of the Marcher Lords.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41- The church was moved - to the top of the hill.
0:14:42 > 0:14:47- The priory is now the cathedral - of the Diocese of Swansea & Brecon.
0:14:53 > 0:14:58- There was a church in the castle, - but this Benedictine priory...
0:14:59 > 0:15:03- ..was moved north of the castle - and had its own fortifications.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06- This happened in around 1200.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- It took 150 years - to build this church.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- It sounds like a long time...
0:15:12 > 0:15:15- ..but isn't long at all - in terms of cathedrals.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- Apart from some minor changes - carried out in Victorian times...
0:15:31 > 0:15:33- ..this is amazingly untouched.
0:15:33 > 0:15:37- Incredibly, the buildings - linked with the priory...
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- ..survived the Dissolution - of the Monasteries.
0:15:41 > 0:15:46- When it became a cathedral - during the 20th century...
0:15:46 > 0:15:51- ..it offered a home for the dean - and an administrative centre.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26- Unlike many other Welsh towns...
0:16:27 > 0:16:30- ..Brecon spread eastwards - rather than westwards.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- The town centre is now in the area - around St Mary's Church.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- There's evidence within the church - that it is a Norman building...
0:16:40 > 0:16:45- ..but that's a military tower, - which isn't original to the church.
0:16:51 > 0:16:53- The canal basin is worth a visit.
0:16:53 > 0:16:55- You can imagine the barges...
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- ..that brought new life - to Brecon in the 1790s.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- You can also visit - a special military building.
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- Before you leave Brecon...
0:17:06 > 0:17:10- ..the South Wales Borderers Museum - is worth a visit.
0:17:11 > 0:17:17- Among the exhibits is the tale - of the Battle of Rorke's Drift.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- That's the battle - featured in the film Zulu.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- Exhibited in this museum - are Victoria Crosses...
0:17:25 > 0:17:29- ..awarded to soldiers - who took part in that battle.
0:17:29 > 0:17:34- This one belonged to - Lieutenant Gonville Bromhead.
0:17:34 > 0:17:41- He was the character played - by Michael Caine in the film.
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- If you wanted to buy - these two medals today...
0:17:46 > 0:17:50- ..you'd have to part with 500,000.
0:17:50 > 0:17:55- But this is their home - and they'll stay here in Brecon.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- Above Bethlehem, near Llangadog, - is the largest hill fort in Wales.
0:18:21 > 0:18:24- The Iron Age fort of Garn Goch.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- If the reason - for building a fort on a hill...
0:18:40 > 0:18:43- ..is being able to see easily - in all directions...
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- ..Garn Goch certainly ticks the box.
0:18:47 > 0:18:50- Yes, and it's a very large hill fort.
0:18:50 > 0:18:53- It covers an area of around 30 acres.
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- It's the largest hill fort in Wales.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- It's 1.5 miles around its perimeter.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- There are nine openings - such as this one in the walls.
0:19:04 > 0:19:06- They allow people to go in and out.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- There may have been - some sort of gate here...
0:19:10 > 0:19:12- ..to keep out the enemy.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- Its sheer size is very striking.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- If there were houses - in every part of the fort...
0:19:19 > 0:19:22- ..it was even bigger than Llandeilo!
0:19:22 > 0:19:26- No detailed research - has been carried out here.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31- Until the National Park workers - cut the bracken recently...
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- ..you couldn't see a thing here.
0:19:33 > 0:19:37- Some outstanding work - has been done recently.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- Having said that, there were - very few large hill forts...
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- ..in the territory of the Demetae - in south-west Wales.
0:19:45 > 0:19:50- There was once an assumption - that the Demetae were smallholders...
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- ..and that there was - no central authority.
0:19:54 > 0:19:58- This was clearly - the Demetae's chief stronghold.
0:19:59 > 0:20:03- The Demetae rulers lived here - around 300 years before Christ.
0:20:04 > 0:20:10- It's an Iron Age hill fort, - making it almost 2,500 years old.
0:20:10 > 0:20:15- If detailed archaeological work - was carried out here...
0:20:15 > 0:20:20- ..it would be one of the most - interesting locations in Wales.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28- There's one more notable feature - on the slopes.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- A monolith - to commemorate Gwynfor Evans.
0:20:32 > 0:20:36- Garn Goch was Gwynfor Evans's - favourite place in the world.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39- His ashes were scattered here...
0:20:39 > 0:20:44- ..and this huge chunk of local stone - is a fitting memorial to him.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48- I think he saw Garn Goch - as a symbol of Welsh sovereignty.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51- He fought for that cause - all his life.
0:20:52 > 0:20:54- It's a very noble memorial stone.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- On a limestone ridge almost 100m - above the River Cennen...
0:21:03 > 0:21:08- ..is one of Britain's most striking - and romantic sights.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- It was painted by Turner in 1798...
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- ..and it remains - a much-admired attraction.
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- No castle in Wales filled the enemy - with quite as much dread...
0:21:20 > 0:21:22- ..as Carreg Cennen Castle.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- If I tried to attack it from the - bottom of the hill, I'd give up!
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- This is the Welsh castle - in the most dramatic location.
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- Caernarfon and Conwy castles - may be more elaborate...
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- ..but no Welsh castle - is in a location to compare to this.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- You can see it from miles away.
0:21:44 > 0:21:47- This is the main landmark - of Carmarthenshire.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50- It was originally a Welsh castle...
0:21:50 > 0:21:55- ..commissioned by the descendants - of Lord Rhys in the 13th century.
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- It was the headquarters - of the district of Iscennen.
0:21:59 > 0:22:04- The Deheubarth family lost its land - by the late 13th century.
0:22:05 > 0:22:10- The castle was granted - to John Giffard, Lord of Llandovery.
0:22:10 > 0:22:13- The castle you see today - was built by the Giffards...
0:22:14 > 0:22:16- ..between 1280 and 1322.
0:22:20 > 0:22:22- After the Giffard period...
0:22:22 > 0:22:28- ..the castle passed to the Despenser - and Lancaster families.
0:22:28 > 0:22:33- It then became a royal castle - and was targeted by Owain Glyndwr.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- He laid siege to it - and took the castle in 1403.
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- He did extensive damage here.
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- We know that 500 was spent - on repairs after the Revolt.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- That was a fortune - in the 15th century.
0:22:46 > 0:22:50- The castle then became part - of the estate of the Earl of Cawdor.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- Carreg Cennen farm was sold - to its tenant in the 1970s.
0:22:55 > 0:23:00- Somehow, the castle - was included in the sale.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03- It was an error by Cawdor...
0:23:03 > 0:23:07- ..but the family is proud - to own Carreg Cennen Castle.
0:23:07 > 0:23:08- I'd be proud too.
0:23:43 > 0:23:45- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:45 > 0:23:46- .