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0:00:24 > 0:00:26- In this episode of 100 Lle...
0:00:27 > 0:00:31- ..we admire the clock - and the ironworks of Tredegar.
0:00:32 > 0:00:35- We discuss photographs of Bryn-mawr - with Marian Delyth.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39- I visit Butetown - in the Rhymney Valley...
0:00:40 > 0:00:45- ..and John Davies talks about - Dowlais's glorious industrial past.
0:00:46 > 0:00:51- Our odyssey begins on the banks - of the River Usk in Newport...
0:00:51 > 0:00:56- ..by one of Wales's most remarkable - architectural features.
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- Here we are, on the famous - Newport Transporter Bridge.
0:01:22 > 0:01:25- What function - did this bridge originally have?
0:01:26 > 0:01:29- The transporter bridge signifies...
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- ..that the River Usk was important, - in shipping terms...
0:01:33 > 0:01:37- ..when the bridge was built, - at the turn of the 20th century.
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- A conventional bridge - wasn't an option...
0:01:41 > 0:01:45- ..because it would have interfered - with tall ships on the Usk.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- The answer - was a transporter bridge...
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- ..with a gondola suspended from it.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- The platform is high enough - for any ship to sail below it.
0:01:56 > 0:02:02- This is one of a handful - of transporter bridges in the world.
0:02:02 > 0:02:06- The one in Bilbao - has received World Heritage status.
0:02:06 > 0:02:11- I've seen the one in Bilbao - and this one is far superior to it.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- A campaign is needed in Wales - in the coming years...
0:02:15 > 0:02:21- ..to secure World Heritage status - for the Newport Transporter Bridge.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- The bridge itself came a bit late.
0:02:24 > 0:02:29- By the time it opened in 1906, - ships' masts weren't as high.
0:02:31 > 0:02:33- They also used the docks.
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- By the end of the 1900s, the port - of Newport's golden age was over.
0:02:38 > 0:02:43- That's why it could be argued - that this bridge was built too late.
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- But it was built, - and it's an elegant structure.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- It was restored recently - and is one of Wales's real gems.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- I once ventured right to the top. - I won't do it again!
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- Hop in! I think we're nearly there.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- It's now one of several bridges - across the River Usk into Newport.
0:03:19 > 0:03:25- They include the two bridges - that frame the ruins of the castle.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30- Casnewydd, the Welsh name - for Newport, means new castle.
0:03:30 > 0:03:35- It was a new castle, compared to - the Roman fort at Caerleon...
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- ..and the Norman motte and bailey - castle at Stow Hill.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- The city centre is a dramatic - patchwork of ruins and buildings...
0:03:53 > 0:03:55- ..and of railway tracks and roads.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01- It's worth walking up the steep road - to the top of Stow Hill...
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- ..and to St Woolos Cathedral.
0:04:06 > 0:04:12- St Woolos Cathedral stands - on the top of Stow Hill, Newport.
0:04:12 > 0:04:18- It's a cathedral by now, but was - the parish church for centuries.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- When the Church in Wales - was disestablished in 1920...
0:04:23 > 0:04:27- ..over half the population of Wales - was in the Diocese of Llandaff.
0:04:27 > 0:04:33- When it was deemed too big, - a Monmouthshire diocese was created.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- Some doubted that this church - was a worthy cathedral...
0:04:37 > 0:04:41- ..but it was made - a temporary cathedral in 1921.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- The plan then - was to rebuild Tintern Abbey...
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..and turn it into a cathedral.
0:04:49 > 0:04:52- However, it would have been - too expensive...
0:04:52 > 0:04:57- ..so they decided to make do with - this lovely church as a cathedral.
0:04:58 > 0:05:00- It's an interesting building.
0:05:00 > 0:05:05- This is probably the finest - Romanesque arch in Wales.
0:05:06 > 0:05:09- There are examples - in Chepstow and in Llandaff...
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- ..but this is among the most perfect.
0:05:14 > 0:05:18- There's a suggestion the columns - were brought here from Caerleon.
0:05:19 > 0:05:23- It's only up the road - and they may have recycled them here!
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- It's good to use local materials!
0:05:26 > 0:05:29- Several Chartists - were buried in the cemetery.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- Yes, a large group of Chartists - came here in 1839.
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- They came mainly from Blaenau Gwent - down to Newport...
0:05:37 > 0:05:41- ..which was the largest town - in south-east Wales.
0:05:41 > 0:05:46- They attacked the soldiers, - who in turn shot back at them.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- At least 20, if not 40, Chartists - were killed.
0:05:50 > 0:05:55- Their bodies were smuggled here - under the cover of darkness...
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- ..and were buried in the cemetery.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02- If there is a shrine to democracy - in Wales or, indeed, in Britain...
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- ..I would say - that it's St Woolos Cemetery.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- They deserve great credit.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21- Tredegar is famous - for its ironworks...
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- ..and for being the birthplace - of Aneurin Bevan.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29- The history of the town square - unites both things.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- This is the clock, - in the centre of Tredegar.
0:06:43 > 0:06:45- We can see from this door...
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- ..how they raised the funds - to pay for this clock.
0:06:50 > 0:06:54- Presented to the town of Tredegar - from the proceeds of a bazaar...
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- ..promoted - by the late Mrs R P Davis.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02- This plaque doesn't tell you - about the political motive...
0:07:02 > 0:07:06- ..behind the decision - to built this clock tower.
0:07:09 > 0:07:13- Here we have a memorial - to Wellington.
0:07:14 > 0:07:16- Wellington, England's Hero.
0:07:16 > 0:07:21- But this plaque wasn't put here - to honour his victory at Waterloo.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25- Wellington was strongly opposed - to Chartism...
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- ..and the Chartists - met in The Cambrian pub over there.
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- If you want to make a political - point, this is the place to do it!
0:07:44 > 0:07:48- Aneurin Bevan is the great hero - of Tredegar, of course.
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- He addressed crowds - from that balcony.
0:07:51 > 0:07:56- People think he somehow conjured up - the National Health Service...
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- ..but Tredegar did have - a local health service...
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- ..the Tredegar Medical Aid Society.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09- Bevan used it as the template - for the National Health Service.
0:08:09 > 0:08:15- Aneurin Bevan famously vowed - to "Tredegarise" Britain.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17- He did just that, fair play to him.
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- The ironworks' owners - built the clock...
0:08:25 > 0:08:28- ..and the ironworks - gave rise to the town.
0:08:28 > 0:08:34- The remains of the area's - first ironworks still stand.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- Sirhowy Ironworks - was established in 1778.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- It was the first ironworks - in the Tredegar area.
0:08:46 > 0:08:50- It was the first to smelt iron - using coke rather than charcoal...
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- ..and that was the key - to its success.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- There was an abundance of coal - in the ground here, of course.
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- Then, in 1805, a tram road - was built from the Tredegar area...
0:09:03 > 0:09:07- ..all the way to Newport, - which was the nearest port.
0:09:07 > 0:09:12- The 20-kilometre tram road - cost 40,000...
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- ..and the track ended very close - to the transporter bridge.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- That was the largest - transport project in Wales...
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- ..until Telford built the A5, - all the way to Holyhead.
0:09:50 > 0:09:53- Above the ironworks, - on Waun y Pound...
0:09:53 > 0:09:57- ..you can see the marks - left on the landscape...
0:09:57 > 0:09:59- ..by the Industrial Revolution.
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- The memorial - to a working-class hero is here.
0:10:03 > 0:10:08- A man who left his mark - on United Kingdom politics.
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- Aneurin Bevan spoke to his - constituents and the world here.
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0:10:36 > 0:10:39- Brynmawr, Wales's highest town...
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- ..caught photographer - Marian Delyth's eye this week.
0:10:45 > 0:10:51- I had fairly firm ideas about what - I wanted to achieve in Brynmawr.
0:10:52 > 0:10:57- I focused on the industrial element, - or the post-industrial element.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- That's because it's so important - to the town's history.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- I had also done some research - on the Semtex Factory.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08- It was built in 1953...
0:11:09 > 0:11:13- ..and was one - of the most pioneering buildings...
0:11:13 > 0:11:17- ..to be erected - in post-war Britain.
0:11:18 > 0:11:22- I wanted to create - a beautiful image of the building.
0:11:22 > 0:11:28- I began by using plants - that have been planted opposite it.
0:11:29 > 0:11:33- I came to the conclusion - that I was cheating, in essence.
0:11:33 > 0:11:38- What I should do was seek out - the beauty in the architecture.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- Having decided - not to use these images...
0:11:46 > 0:11:50- ..I then focused my attention - on the fine detail of the building.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56- I sought to glorify - those industrial elements...
0:11:57 > 0:11:59- ..rather than try to hide them.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02- Things such as the chimney, - the cables...
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- ..and the frames of the windows, - which are now broken.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13- By getting closer and closer - to these elements...
0:12:13 > 0:12:19- ..I focused on abstract shapes, - such as the silhouette of the lamps.
0:12:20 > 0:12:25- I eventually decided that the image - that should appear in the book...
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- ..would be the simplest of them all.
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- There's a mural on a gable wall...
0:12:40 > 0:12:44- ..in a prominent location - on Brynmawr town square.
0:12:45 > 0:12:48- I used a detail from that mural - in the book...
0:12:48 > 0:12:53- ..but I'm also fond of this shot - of the mural in the background...
0:12:53 > 0:12:56- ..and cars in the foreground.
0:12:56 > 0:13:00- It's a lovely combination - of modern transport...
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- ..coupled with images of transport - from the distant past.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- I wandered the streets - and the cinema caught my eye.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- The war memorial - stands in front of the cinema.
0:13:22 > 0:13:25- This photograph - was taken in the evening.
0:13:25 > 0:13:30- It captures the hustle and bustle - of life on the town square.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36- I also took some shots that capture - the essence of the valleys.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- Chapels that are now nightclubs - and small chip shops.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46- Here, you can see signs - that are typical of the valleys.
0:13:48 > 0:13:51- I haven't taken many photographs - of the valleys...
0:13:51 > 0:13:56- ..but I want to go back there - because it's very interesting.
0:14:01 > 0:14:06- There was a population explosion - in the South Wales coalfield...
0:14:06 > 0:14:08- ..in the mid 18th century.
0:14:08 > 0:14:13- The population grew from 10,000 - to 500,000 and they needed homes.
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- Houses were built for the workforce - in Butetown in the Rhymney Valley.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- You can't miss the Brian Tolle - sculptures as you enter Butetown.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34- The Twisted Chimney stands - on the site of the old Bute Works...
0:14:34 > 0:14:37- ..as a modern symbol - of an industrial past.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- This village was built in 1802 - by Richard Johnson.
0:15:06 > 0:15:07- He owned Union Ironworks.
0:15:08 > 0:15:10- There are only 47 houses here...
0:15:10 > 0:15:14- ..but it was meant to be part - of a far larger development.
0:15:14 > 0:15:19- However, Union Ironworks - and Bute Ironworks amalgamated...
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- ..and that's what put a stop - to this lovely development.
0:15:23 > 0:15:27- These designs are typical - of Renaissance architecture.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- There's a great variety - within the 47 houses here.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- There are family homes - and houses for individuals.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40- There are also homes - for impoverished families.
0:15:40 > 0:15:45- This village was designed for rich - and poor to live in harmony.
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- Perhaps the most striking features - of this development...
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- ..were the Egyptian furnaces.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20- They were copies of furnaces - that were discovered in Egypt.
0:16:22 > 0:16:27- They had columns and pilasters - and looked really beautiful.
0:16:28 > 0:16:33- Imagine how bizarre a sight those - Egyptian furnaces must have been.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- Unfortunately, they're long gone...
0:16:36 > 0:16:39- ..but at least the houses - are still standing.
0:17:06 > 0:17:10- It's amazing - how close the countryside is...
0:17:11 > 0:17:14- ..to the heavy industry - that was once here.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17- You can appreciate the views...
0:17:17 > 0:17:21- ..when you travel on the mountain - railway from Merthyr.
0:17:21 > 0:17:23- The next stop for me is Dowlais...
0:17:23 > 0:17:28- ..where a huge effort has been made - to mask its industrial past.
0:17:39 > 0:17:44- Dowlais is now a fairly quiet place - and a mere suburb of Merthyr.
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- But there was a time when Dowlais - influenced the whole world.
0:17:54 > 0:17:59- There is very little evidence - of Dowlais's industrial heyday...
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- ..during the mid 19th century.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06- Humans rather than horses - now live in the stables.
0:18:06 > 0:18:11- The magnificent Dowlais Reading Room - is now a club or a pub.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15- What's left of the pump house - is a gym.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18- Why did you include it in the book?
0:18:18 > 0:18:24- Because there was nowhere to compare - to Dowlais in the mid 19th century.
0:18:24 > 0:18:30- When John Josiah Guest died in 1852, - he employed over 7,000 people.
0:18:31 > 0:18:35- He employed more people than anyone - in the world at that time.
0:18:35 > 0:18:40- There were 14 furnaces, the remains - of which lie beneath our feet.
0:18:40 > 0:18:45- No works on that scale had existed - in the history of mankind.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- We're surrounded by the processes - that transformed the world.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- I'd like to erect a sign - on Dowlais Top proclaiming...
0:18:54 > 0:18:58- ..Welcome To The Cradle - Of The New World...
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- ..to emphasize - just how important Dowlais is.
0:19:02 > 0:19:07- The blast furnace over there - is the only remaining building...
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- ..that was an essential part - of the process.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- That's where the energy was created - to produce hot air...
0:19:17 > 0:19:20- ..to raise the temperature - within the furnaces.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24- Exports from here - went all over the world.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- Iron was carried to Cardiff - on the canal and later by rail...
0:19:29 > 0:19:33- ..and exported to almost - every country in the world.
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- For example, the railway tracks - from Moscow to St Petersburg...
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- ..were actually created here.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45- If you read Anna Karenina - by Tolstoy...
0:19:46 > 0:19:49- ..she throws herself - in front of the train in the end.
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- She would have fallen on tracks - bearing the legend GL - Guest Lewis.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- That was the trademark of Dowlais.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- It would have been stamped - through the iron, like Pwllheli Rock.
0:20:05 > 0:20:10- If you go to Turkey, Spain, Germany - and almost any other country...
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- ..you'll see train tracks - produced in Dowlais.
0:20:15 > 0:20:20- Back then, everyone in the world - knew about Merthyr and Dowlais.
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- It's as though they've gone out of - their way to erase their heritage.
0:20:26 > 0:20:28- I think it's very sad.
0:20:28 > 0:20:32- You can see much more - at the old Cyfarthfa Ironworks...
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- ..that belonged - to the Crawshay family.
0:20:36 > 0:20:40- There's nothing to see in Dowlais. - It's all been buried.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- The glorious past of Dowlais - has been destroyed.
0:20:44 > 0:20:46- Shame on the people - of Merthyr Tydfil.
0:21:03 > 0:21:08- It's great to see an old - industrial building put to good use.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- The pump house - is used by local youngsters.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14- As we leave Dowlais...
0:21:14 > 0:21:19- ..we see a structure that dominates - the landscape in Cefncoedycymer.
0:21:40 > 0:21:44- This programme ends - on the outskirts of Merthyr Tydfil.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- Yes, we're standing - on the viaduct...
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- ..that carried - the Merthyr to Brecon railway.
0:21:54 > 0:21:56- This viaduct was built in 1866...
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- ..and it carried the railway - until the 1960s.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- It was used for a century.
0:22:05 > 0:22:08- This is the largest viaduct - in the whole of Wales.
0:22:10 > 0:22:15- It's 770 feet long and stands - 125 feet above the Taf Fawr river.
0:22:15 > 0:22:20- I think it's the most beautiful - and elegant viaduct in Wales...
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- ..but someone from Pont-rhyd-y-fen - may disagree!
0:22:24 > 0:22:26- Pont-rhyd-y-fen had three of them!
0:22:26 > 0:22:28- Pont-rhyd-y-fen had three of them!- - Let's not pursue that point.
0:22:28 > 0:22:32- Having been to Dowlais - and Merthyr as a whole...
0:22:32 > 0:22:37- ..you realize how much of its - industrial heritage has been lost.
0:22:37 > 0:22:42- It's wonderful to see this viaduct - still standing proudly here.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- It's one of our country's - most magnificent antiquities.
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- Yes. I won't argue with that.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- It's not as good as Pont-rhyd-y-fen, - mind you!
0:22:54 > 0:22:56- I knew you'd say that! Hmm!
0:23:34 > 0:23:37- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:37 > 0:23:37- .