Dafydd Iwan

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0:00:41 > 0:00:44- It's natural - to idealize and romanticize.

0:00:45 > 0:00:47- It's understandable...

0:00:47 > 0:00:49- ..in such a magical place as this.

0:00:50 > 0:00:54- I don't recall hotter summers - than those at Esgair Llyn.

0:00:54 > 0:00:57- I don't recall tastier sandwiches - than Anti Sarah's...

0:00:58 > 0:01:00- ..during harvest time.

0:01:00 > 0:01:05- Childhood experiences - are part and parcel of that romance.

0:01:22 > 0:01:26- Some miles - outside the town of Machynlleth...

0:01:26 > 0:01:29- ..is a small place called Aberhosan.

0:01:29 > 0:01:32- Situated near Aberhosan - stood Nantyfyda Farm...

0:01:33 > 0:01:35- ..in the Dulas Valley.

0:01:35 > 0:01:39- My brothers and I - would come here on holiday.

0:01:39 > 0:01:42- We'd leave Brynamman - and spend Easter and summer here.

0:01:43 > 0:01:47- As children from a Carmarthenshire - coalmining background...

0:01:47 > 0:01:50- ..our holidays were spent - in the serenity of Montgomeryshire.

0:01:51 > 0:01:53- It was always sunny here.

0:01:53 > 0:01:56- Those memories have stayed with me.

0:02:04 > 0:02:09- If you went from Nantyfyda to the - farthest end of the Dulas Valley...

0:02:09 > 0:02:13- ..to the barren foothills - of Esgair Llyn...

0:02:13 > 0:02:16- ..you'd find the site - of a former smallholding.

0:02:16 > 0:02:20- Nothing remains - of that smallholding today.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23- It has been demolished.

0:02:23 > 0:02:28- There is very little here - apart from trees and a stream...

0:02:29 > 0:02:33- ..but to us, many moons ago, - when it was always sunny...

0:02:34 > 0:02:36- ..this was heaven.

0:02:36 > 0:02:40- We looked forward to coming - to Esgair Llyn more than anything.

0:02:40 > 0:02:43- There were trees to climb...

0:02:43 > 0:02:45- ..and a river.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49- Huw Ceredig, my brother, - loved tickling trout.

0:02:49 > 0:02:52- I don't recall him - catching much of anything...

0:02:53 > 0:02:56- ..but he loved - messing about in the river.

0:02:56 > 0:03:00- When you cross the river - from Esgair Llyn...

0:03:00 > 0:03:03- ..and approach - the mountain pasture...

0:03:03 > 0:03:06- ..the setting - becomes even more magical.

0:03:07 > 0:03:09- You're surrounded by mountains...

0:03:10 > 0:03:13- ..and there's a serene - and romantic quality about it.

0:03:13 > 0:03:16- It's romantic - because of the numerous tales...

0:03:17 > 0:03:19- ..about Owain Glyndwr and his men...

0:03:19 > 0:03:22- ..taking shelter - and fighting in this area.

0:03:22 > 0:03:25- Close by is Glyndwr's Way...

0:03:25 > 0:03:30- ..descending from the Hyddgen, - Dylife and Nant Ddu mountains...

0:03:30 > 0:03:33- ..all the way down into the valley.

0:03:33 > 0:03:38- It all adds to the romance, - magic and appeal of Esgair Llyn.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- When Ray Gravell approached me...

0:03:44 > 0:03:48- First of all he sent me - a cassette of The Wolfe Tones...

0:03:48 > 0:03:51- ..singing Fields of Athenry.

0:03:51 > 0:03:56- Then he phoned me, saying, "You have - to write Welsh words for this song."

0:03:56 > 0:04:00- I could see what he meant. - It's an incredible tune.

0:04:00 > 0:04:03- It was as if Ray could sense...

0:04:03 > 0:04:07- ..that it would develop - into a second anthem for Ireland...

0:04:08 > 0:04:12- ..which it did become, in - the context of rugby and football.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16- Esgair Llyn - instantly sprang to mind.

0:04:16 > 0:04:18- I can't explain why.

0:04:18 > 0:04:22- It might have had - something to do with the fact...

0:04:22 > 0:04:26- ..that Ray Gravell himself - could empathize with Glyndwr.

0:04:26 > 0:04:30- Or perhaps Esgair Llyn - sprang to mind as the place...

0:04:30 > 0:04:34- ..which embodies - that feeling of Welshness for me.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39- This is where - the heart of Wales beats.

0:04:42 > 0:04:48- "When I return, I'll see photographs - of yesteryear all around

0:04:48 > 0:04:53- "And remember the fun - of harvesting straw in the heat

0:04:53 > 0:04:55- "The old community has gone...

0:04:55 > 0:05:00- "..and the memories of a lifetime - are carried on the wind...

0:05:00 > 0:05:02- "..in Esgair Llyn."

0:05:07 > 0:05:11- Whenever I write a song, - it has to pass a certain test.

0:05:12 > 0:05:16- When I sing it in its entirety, - to myself, that is...

0:05:17 > 0:05:21- ..if tears well in my eyes, I know - there's something in that song.

0:05:21 > 0:05:27- It may sound strange but it doesn't - necessarily have to be a sad song.

0:05:27 > 0:05:31- But it has to - strike a chord in my heart...

0:05:32 > 0:05:34- ..or even in my soul.

0:05:34 > 0:05:37- If you do that, - then usually it makes you cry.

0:05:39 > 0:05:43- Even if the song - is performed in public...

0:05:43 > 0:05:47- ..if the ambience is conducive, - tears well in the eyes then too.

0:05:48 > 0:05:52- They aren't always tears - of longing or sadness.

0:05:53 > 0:05:57- They can be tears - incurred by a feeling or an emotion.

0:05:58 > 0:06:03- I think there's a distinct - connection between Esgair Llyn...

0:06:03 > 0:06:05- ..and Ray Gravell...

0:06:06 > 0:06:10- ..because Ray was a person - who was sensitive to the core...

0:06:10 > 0:06:16- ..and liked music and poetry - that pulled on the heart strings.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23- Esgair Llyn is situated - on the Nantyfyda estate.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26- Nantyfyda was my mother's home.

0:06:26 > 0:06:29- Mam was a strong influence - on my brothers and I.

0:06:30 > 0:06:32- Mam was a teacher - more than anything.

0:06:32 > 0:06:36- She tried her best - to teach us to play the piano.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39- She had very little success.

0:06:40 > 0:06:42- But she taught us - to appreciate music.

0:06:43 > 0:06:48- Influenced by the chapel, - the Band of Hope and eisteddfodau...

0:06:48 > 0:06:53- ..we had our fair share of folk, - choral and harmonic singing...

0:06:53 > 0:06:56- ..and reading sol-fa and so on.

0:06:56 > 0:07:01- My mother is to thank for - igniting that love of music in us.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04- Mam was a staunch nationalist too.

0:07:05 > 0:07:09- She was head over heels committed - to the Welsh language.

0:07:10 > 0:07:14- # Recalling memories of a lifetime

0:07:15 > 0:07:18- # In Esgair Llyn

0:07:18 > 0:07:24- # It's peaceful now #

0:07:24 > 0:07:28- The idea of retiring - from singing...

0:07:29 > 0:07:32- ..is an interesting notion...

0:07:32 > 0:07:35- ..because - back in the amateur days...

0:07:35 > 0:07:40- ..people sang because it came from - the heart and they enjoyed singing.

0:07:41 > 0:07:44- There was no mention of retiring...

0:07:44 > 0:07:48- ..but because - it's now turned professional...

0:07:49 > 0:07:51- ..there is talk of - the final concert...

0:07:52 > 0:07:54- ..of retiring and of giving it up.

0:07:54 > 0:07:56- It's a problem.

0:07:56 > 0:07:59- Personally, when I sing...

0:07:59 > 0:08:04- ..I have the best time of my life.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06- Every performer feels the same way.

0:08:07 > 0:08:12- When things are going well on stage - and the audience is responding...

0:08:12 > 0:08:14- ..and everything falls into place...

0:08:15 > 0:08:18- ..there's no feeling like it, - and it's hard to give up.

0:08:19 > 0:08:21- When you do give it up, you miss it.

0:08:21 > 0:08:25- There have been times in my life - when I haven't sung.

0:08:25 > 0:08:28- I've felt lost on a Saturday night.

0:08:28 > 0:08:31- I've felt tired and listless.

0:08:31 > 0:08:33- I've been apathetic.

0:08:33 > 0:08:37- It's as if the body - yearns for the adrenalin rush...

0:08:37 > 0:08:40- ..or the adulation.

0:08:40 > 0:08:42- It's an interesting question...

0:08:42 > 0:08:46- ..why do artists - often carry on for too long?

0:08:46 > 0:08:50- I just hope someone will tell me, - "Dafydd, that's enough."

0:08:50 > 0:08:54- # And Wales lives on

0:08:55 > 0:08:59- # In Esgair Llyn #

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0:09:16 > 0:09:19- I like to visit here - on my travels...

0:09:20 > 0:09:22- ..especially in winter...

0:09:22 > 0:09:24- ..because you can be all alone.

0:09:28 > 0:09:31- I come - for the peace and tranquillity.

0:09:31 > 0:09:34- If offers solitude.

0:09:34 > 0:09:38- But for me, it is a solitude...

0:09:39 > 0:09:41- ..filled with memories - and associations...

0:09:42 > 0:09:44- ..and voices from the past.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06- It's impossible - for me to escape Y Cilie.

0:10:07 > 0:10:10- Although there are - family ties with the farm...

0:10:10 > 0:10:13- ..which were severed - in the 1970s...

0:10:13 > 0:10:19- ..there is so much mythology - surrounding Bois Y Cilie.

0:10:19 > 0:10:22- Their poetry is renowned.

0:10:22 > 0:10:25- The poems, - the englynion and cywyddau...

0:10:25 > 0:10:29- So many of them - are inspired by this region...

0:10:29 > 0:10:31- ..and in particular, Cwmtydu.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35- It was here that the family - would get together...

0:10:36 > 0:10:38- ..on special occasions...

0:10:38 > 0:10:42- ..to celebrate an event...

0:10:42 > 0:10:46- ..or to hold - a literary battle of some kind.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50- There are many tales about them...

0:10:51 > 0:10:55- ..swimming back and forth - across the bay in stormy weather.

0:10:55 > 0:10:59- If they succeeded, they'd - carve their names on the rock.

0:10:59 > 0:11:02- Although the tide - has washed away the names...

0:11:03 > 0:11:06- ..this place is filled - with echoes of the past...

0:11:06 > 0:11:08- ..and the voices of Bois Y Cilie.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19- Esgair Llyn and Montgomeryshire...

0:11:20 > 0:11:23- ..relate to - my mother's side of the family.

0:11:23 > 0:11:25- My father, of course...

0:11:26 > 0:11:28- ..represents this region.

0:11:29 > 0:11:34- My father made sure - I was familiar with Y Cilie.

0:11:34 > 0:11:39- He would bring us here in summer to - meet people like Isfoel and Alun...

0:11:40 > 0:11:42- ..and Jac Alun...

0:11:42 > 0:11:45- ..and to hear - the poetic way they spoke.

0:11:49 > 0:11:54- The Cilie family and Cilie Farm - were linguistically self-sufficient.

0:11:54 > 0:11:59- They were self-sufficient culturally - as well as economically.

0:11:59 > 0:12:01- They composed poetry...

0:12:01 > 0:12:04- ..for fun - rather than for the media.

0:12:04 > 0:12:07- The poetry - was for ordinary folk to enjoy.

0:12:08 > 0:12:11- I remember someone - referring to the Cilie family...

0:12:11 > 0:12:14- ..as a box of chocolates.

0:12:14 > 0:12:18- The chocolate was hard - on the outside with soft centres.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21- I think we were - a romantic family too.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25- When you consider that - 11 family members went to sea...

0:12:25 > 0:12:28- ..that also adds to the romance...

0:12:28 > 0:12:31- ..coupled with - the romance of the sea.

0:12:45 > 0:12:48- My father - was a very interesting character.

0:12:49 > 0:12:51- We were similar in many ways.

0:12:51 > 0:12:55- I've certainly - inherited his temper...

0:12:55 > 0:12:57- ..and his love of words.

0:12:57 > 0:13:02- He ran away to sea at a young age.

0:13:04 > 0:13:08- I joined The Welsh Language Society - at the same age.

0:13:08 > 0:13:12- There's a similarity there.

0:13:12 > 0:13:14- He was a seaman for seven years...

0:13:14 > 0:13:18- ..before joining the ministry.

0:13:25 > 0:13:27- We were the four sons of the Manse.

0:13:28 > 0:13:29- That's asking for trouble.

0:13:30 > 0:13:32- We attended chapel regularly.

0:13:32 > 0:13:34- We had to learn Biblical verses.

0:13:35 > 0:13:38- We had to go to - the Band of Hope and Sunday school.

0:13:39 > 0:13:41- We were happy enough to go.

0:13:42 > 0:13:44- We gained valuable experiences.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48- The four of us were different...

0:13:48 > 0:13:52- ..in the way - we responded to those experiences.

0:13:52 > 0:13:57- I was perfectly happy participating - in the chapel eisteddfodau.

0:13:57 > 0:13:59- I enjoyed it immensely.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02- My other brothers - weren't so thrilled.

0:14:02 > 0:14:05- Arthur was certainly - not a performer.

0:14:06 > 0:14:08- He reacted very unfavourably...

0:14:08 > 0:14:12- ..when forced to learn verses - every Saturday night.

0:14:12 > 0:14:17- He was very reluctant and rebelled - against that family tradition.

0:14:19 > 0:14:23- Huw wasn't interested - in the cultural aspect.

0:14:23 > 0:14:25- He excelled in different areas.

0:14:26 > 0:14:28- He went to Llandovery College...

0:14:28 > 0:14:34- ..where he was introduced - to a different world.

0:14:34 > 0:14:37- He was a horse racing fanatic.

0:14:39 > 0:14:43- He enjoyed all kinds of sports, - as did all of us.

0:14:43 > 0:14:47- Since there were four of us, - we could form two teams...

0:14:47 > 0:14:51- ..and played cricket, - football and rugby and so on.

0:14:51 > 0:14:54- There was conflict at times.

0:14:54 > 0:14:57- Ministers' sons - are known to misbehave...

0:14:57 > 0:15:01- ..and if we were caught, - we were chastised.

0:15:01 > 0:15:04- We gave people plenty to talk about.

0:15:04 > 0:15:07- We certainly weren't angels!

0:15:10 > 0:15:12- But I don't think we were too bad.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31- The Lleyn Peninsula - is sometimes confused...

0:15:31 > 0:15:33- ..with Lleyn.

0:15:33 > 0:15:38- Lleyn refers to the other side, - the land west of Yr Eifl.

0:15:39 > 0:15:42- In the heart of Lleyn...

0:15:42 > 0:15:45- ..stands the Carn Fadryn mountain.

0:15:48 > 0:15:51- When Carn Fadryn wears its hat, - bad weather is on the way.

0:16:19 > 0:16:23- The most notable feature of - Garnfadryn village is the mountain.

0:16:24 > 0:16:30- An extinct volcano, there are ruins - of a Celtic village at the summit.

0:16:32 > 0:16:37- This is Lleyn's focal point - and main geographical feature.

0:16:39 > 0:16:42- It is visible from Y Cilie estate...

0:16:42 > 0:16:44- ..on a clear day, of course.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59- The mid-1980s...

0:16:59 > 0:17:02- ..was a miserable time - for me personally.

0:17:02 > 0:17:06- It was the Thatcher era too, - which didn't help...

0:17:06 > 0:17:10- ..and my marriage - finally broke down.

0:17:10 > 0:17:12- I went to live in Caernarfon.

0:17:12 > 0:17:16- Apart from the children, - the one thing that kept me going...

0:17:17 > 0:17:19- ..was preaching on a Sunday.

0:17:19 > 0:17:23- Garnfadryn was one of the places - I used to visit.

0:17:23 > 0:17:26- I fell in love - with the village of Garnfadryn...

0:17:26 > 0:17:31- ..a sprawling settlement nestling - on the slopes of the mountain.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34- The chapel - was central to village life...

0:17:35 > 0:17:38- ..aside from the shop.

0:17:38 > 0:17:41- I came here to preach - and met Bethan...

0:17:42 > 0:17:45- ..the organist, - who has since become my wife.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51- I fell head over heels in love...

0:17:51 > 0:17:55- ..and we later married in 1988.

0:17:55 > 0:18:00- Since then, Garnfadryn has played - an important part in my life.

0:18:04 > 0:18:06- Bethan has kept in touch...

0:18:06 > 0:18:11- ..though she has lost all her - relatives in a short space of time.

0:18:11 > 0:18:15- She's still in contact - with Garnfadryn and Tanygrisiau.

0:18:23 > 0:18:25- When I first got to know Bethan...

0:18:26 > 0:18:31- ..her Auntie Myra used to - keep the shop and ran the chapel.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35- It was through her - that I got to know Bethan.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46- When I first came - to Garnfadryn to preach...

0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..there were many young people - in the congregation.

0:18:51 > 0:18:53- By getting to know them...

0:18:54 > 0:18:57- ..I became aware - of their family connections.

0:18:57 > 0:19:01- Many of them have had to - move away to find work...

0:19:01 > 0:19:04- ..or because it's too far to travel.

0:19:04 > 0:19:06- That's the challenge...

0:19:06 > 0:19:11- ..facing a close-knit Welsh-speaking - community such as this.

0:19:11 > 0:19:14- They have to deal with - incomers to the area...

0:19:14 > 0:19:17- ..who often don't speak Welsh...

0:19:17 > 0:19:21- ..and they have to retain - those native to the area...

0:19:21 > 0:19:25- ..who have to travel - further afield to work.

0:19:25 > 0:19:30- Many Welsh communities and villages - have to deal with the same issues.

0:19:36 > 0:19:41- For me, Garnfadryn is certainly - one of three places...

0:19:41 > 0:19:44- ..that mean the most to me.

0:19:51 > 0:19:56- When I went to Aberystwyth - University in the early 1960s...

0:19:56 > 0:20:00- ..the only way - I can describe it now...

0:20:00 > 0:20:04- ..is that we were paving the way - for The Welsh Language Society.

0:20:04 > 0:20:06- It was an exciting time...

0:20:07 > 0:20:09- ..filled with fervent disputes.

0:20:09 > 0:20:12- When I later moved to Cardiff...

0:20:12 > 0:20:16- ..to study architecture, - I missed out on it all.

0:20:16 > 0:20:18- I was out of the loop.

0:20:19 > 0:20:22- I'd say the battle - is definitely turning nasty.

0:20:22 > 0:20:25- At the time, of course...

0:20:26 > 0:20:29- ..Swansea and Cardiff students - joined in the protest.

0:20:30 > 0:20:33- We arranged buses - to every rally and meeting....

0:20:33 > 0:20:37- ..and travelled the country - from protest to protest.

0:20:38 > 0:20:41- The wheels were in motion - and I was embroiled with that.

0:20:42 > 0:20:46- For me, it was a way - of venting my frustration.

0:20:47 > 0:20:49- My songs changed as well.

0:20:49 > 0:20:54- They became more political and were - about the battle for the language.

0:20:54 > 0:20:58- I was suddenly - caught up in the campaign.

0:20:58 > 0:21:01- For the best part of 10 years...

0:21:02 > 0:21:05- ..I was propelled by - The Welsh Language Society's plight.

0:21:06 > 0:21:09- There is unity in the ranks - between the Society and...

0:21:10 > 0:21:13- In hindsight, - another interesting facet...

0:21:13 > 0:21:18- ..was The Welsh Language Society's - relationship with Plaid Cymru.

0:21:18 > 0:21:22- Plaid Cymru was anathema - to some members of the Society.

0:21:22 > 0:21:29- They wanted nothing to do with Plaid - Cymru and regularly criticized them.

0:21:29 > 0:21:34- But I have been a member of both - throughout the years.

0:21:34 > 0:21:38- I see nothing wrong in that. - I didn't see it as a problem.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41- Tension arose...

0:21:41 > 0:21:44- ..especially - in the 1960s and 1970s...

0:21:44 > 0:21:49- ..when the Society launched - a campaign before an election.

0:21:50 > 0:21:54- Gwynfor once lost his seat - because his daughter was in prison.

0:21:54 > 0:21:57- I'm convinced - that in the long term...

0:21:57 > 0:22:01- ..the campaigning - helped the national cause...

0:22:01 > 0:22:04- ..and ultimately, Plaid Cymru's.

0:22:20 > 0:22:24- What's important - is that we work together...

0:22:24 > 0:22:29- ..and embrace change so that - we may face new challenges...

0:22:30 > 0:22:32- ..and new situations.

0:22:32 > 0:22:37- The one thing that has thwarted us - throughout the centuries...

0:22:37 > 0:22:40- ..is a readiness - to follow different princes.

0:22:40 > 0:22:44- We veer in different directions - and turn against each other.

0:22:45 > 0:22:47- We have to be united in the cause...

0:22:48 > 0:22:52- ..and, ultimately, we have to - ignore our personal feelings...

0:22:52 > 0:22:54- ..for the sake of our nation.

0:22:54 > 0:22:59- At the same time, we must not forget - that the nation...

0:22:59 > 0:23:01- ..is part of a wider family.

0:23:03 > 0:23:06- I very much hope...

0:23:06 > 0:23:09- ..that my songs...

0:23:09 > 0:23:11- ..echo both those sentiments.

0:23:11 > 0:23:16- We must remain focused - on our national campaign...

0:23:16 > 0:23:20- ..while striving to keep it - in context with the wider world.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:24:01 > 0:24:02- .