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0:00:06 > 0:00:11- The Alps, the highest mountains in - Europe, stretch over 74,000 miles...
0:00:11 > 0:00:13- ..through eight countries.
0:00:15 > 0:00:18- Home to 14 million people.
0:00:19 > 0:00:24- I've travelled and climbed - in the Alps for over 40 years.
0:00:25 > 0:00:26- The Alps are under threat.
0:00:27 > 0:00:31- The thousands of tourists who flock - here have caused problems.
0:00:32 > 0:00:35- The traditions and customs - of the mountains may cease to exist.
0:00:37 > 0:00:40- Languages and cultures - are at risk.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- Hundreds of miles - separate Wales and the Alps...
0:00:48 > 0:00:50- ..but comparisons can be made.
0:00:50 > 0:00:52- We face similar problems.
0:00:53 > 0:00:55- I shall journey - through the mountains...
0:00:55 > 0:00:56- ..in search of a solution.
0:01:02 > 0:01:05- From Summit To Soul
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- The Alps were formed - 53 million years ago...
0:01:14 > 0:01:17- ..when the African continent - collided with Europe.
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- This is Dent du Geant, - a peak in the Mont Blanc region.
0:01:31 > 0:01:33- Mountaineering started in the Alps.
0:01:33 > 0:01:38- This type of climbing - is known worldwide as Alpinism.
0:01:51 > 0:01:56- Jungfraujoch in Switzerland - is 3,500 metres high.
0:01:56 > 0:01:58- I've witnessed many changes here.
0:01:59 > 0:02:04- There's been an amazing change - in the last 40 years.
0:02:04 > 0:02:09- At my first visit, - donkeys carried food to the huts.
0:02:09 > 0:02:12- Nowadays, - a helicopter does everything.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18- Mountaineering is much safer - as a result.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- Years ago, in an accident...
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- ..it took ages to transport - the injured to safety...
0:02:28 > 0:02:34- ..but it only takes a matter - of minutes by helicopter.
0:02:38 > 0:02:40- I've been associated - with the Alps for years...
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- ..particularly - the Matterhorn and Eiger mountains.
0:02:44 > 0:02:46- As my interest - in mountaineering grew...
0:02:47 > 0:02:52- ..I read about early pioneers, - like Teray, Heckmair and Harrer.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55- I felt a strong attraction - to the Eiger.
0:02:55 > 0:03:00- It's the highest wall in the Alps - with an exciting history.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03- The danger made it - a challenging climb.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- I came here in September 1980...
0:03:11 > 0:03:17- ..and climbed the face alone - in around 18 hours.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- To climb the north face - of the Eiger and Matterhorn...
0:03:23 > 0:03:28- ..you must master rock climbing, - deal with ice and snow...
0:03:28 > 0:03:33- ..and learn - when to push forward or turn back.
0:03:36 > 0:03:42- The ascents are long and dangerous, - standing at 9,000 feet high.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47- It calls for stamina - and a bit of luck!
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- It felt amazing to reach the peak - on my own, after years of dreaming.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- It's the zenith - of my climbing career.
0:04:04 > 0:04:06- These are two Austrian climbers.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10- As a tribute to those - who climbed this peak...
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- ..a statue of the Madonna - was erected on the summit.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- This is Mont Blanc, - Europe's highest mountain.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- Our journey takes us - from Mont Blanc to Italy...
0:04:29 > 0:04:33- ..then to Switzerland's - Matterhorn and Eiger...
0:04:33 > 0:04:38- ..to Austria and back to Italy to - the home of the King of Mountains.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- I want to know - what's happening in the Alps...
0:04:45 > 0:04:49- ..how locals overcome the problems - caused by the changing climate.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- With the increase - in tourism and traffic...
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- ..pollution is worsening...
0:04:55 > 0:04:57- ..and resources like water - become scarce.
0:05:01 > 0:05:06- Farmers diversify and this has - an adverse effect on agriculture.
0:05:11 > 0:05:16- At my home near Snowdonia, - we face similar problems.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- What can we do - to overcome these problems?
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- Our journey begins in Chamonix...
0:05:29 > 0:05:34- ..at the highest mountain - of Western Europe - Mont Blanc.
0:05:34 > 0:05:37- I've climbed here many times.
0:05:37 > 0:05:42- I've scaled the most difficult - climbs of the area on my own...
0:05:42 > 0:05:47- ..including the Central Pillar - of Brouillard on the southern face.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- Nobody had climbed it before.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- A few of my friends - must remain here forever.
0:06:02 > 0:06:08- I consider the Alps to be a place - of beauty, peace and adventure.
0:06:08 > 0:06:14- However, they can often - be dangerous and lethal.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- As I wander - through this cemetery at Chamonix...
0:06:19 > 0:06:24- ..I'm amazed at the number - of climbers who have died here.
0:06:33 > 0:06:38- I've lost six friends - on the mountains of Mont Blanc.
0:06:40 > 0:06:44- George Bettenburg, - Tom Hurley, Arthur De-Kusel....
0:06:45 > 0:06:47- ..Rick Knight, John Eastwood...
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- ..and Roger Baxter-Jones - who is buried here.
0:06:54 > 0:06:59- Roger worked with me at a climbing - school at Zermatt for three years.
0:07:01 > 0:07:06- In 1985, Roger went climbing - with another friend...
0:07:06 > 0:07:09- ..a Canadian living in Zermatt - called John Eastwood.
0:07:10 > 0:07:15- They attempted the northern face - of Triolet, south of Chamonix.
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- Halfway up, - a large piece of ice fell...
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- ..killing both of them - and two Italians.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28- It was a sad time, - losing two friends.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- This is the grave of another friend, - Arthur De-Kusel.
0:07:41 > 0:07:45- In 1970, four of us - were climbing in the Alps.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- Mick Coffey, Rick Knight, - Arthur and me.
0:07:50 > 0:07:55- One day, the four of us were going - to climb the Grand Capucin...
0:07:55 > 0:07:57- ..near Mont Blanc du Tacul.
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- At the last minute, Mick and I...
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- ..decided to delay - the climb until the following day.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- Arthur and Rick opted to go ahead.
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- That night, a horrific storm - blew into the valley.
0:08:16 > 0:08:21- The mountain was struck by lightning - killing five mountaineers...
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- ..including Arthur and Rick.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- Mick and I were very fortunate - not to have climbed...
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- ..or we would have been killed too.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- When a friend or climber - is killed on a mountain...
0:08:44 > 0:08:47- ..I feel maybe mountaineering - is not worth the risk...
0:08:47 > 0:08:52- ..but the enchantment and charm - of the mountains is so compelling...
0:08:52 > 0:08:56- ..that I always return here.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- The thousands of tourists - who frequently return here...
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- ..have changed - the face of the Alps forever.
0:09:21 > 0:09:27- In the 1940s, a small number of - people lived in Deux Alpes, France.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- This is where the first - ski centres were built...
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- ..but there are no communities here.
0:09:38 > 0:09:44- In the 1950s, villages and holiday - resorts seemed to appear overnight.
0:09:45 > 0:09:50- Only 17% of the Alps - is protected as a national park.
0:09:52 > 0:09:58- Nobody worried about the environment - but as the ice and snow melt...
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- ..new ideas are needed - to attract tourists.
0:10:05 > 0:10:11- This sort of tourism invests little - in the future of local residents.
0:10:14 > 0:10:16- In the Deux Alpes region...
0:10:16 > 0:10:21- ..cable cars enable entry - to 3,600 metres of ski resorts.
0:10:23 > 0:10:26- In the process - of preparing the slopes...
0:10:26 > 0:10:30- ..the snow is polluted - which quickens erosion.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- There are currently - over 600 ski centres in the Alps...
0:10:50 > 0:10:54- ..but I fear half of these - will close by 2050.
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0:11:12 > 0:11:15- My journey through the Alps - continues southwards...
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- ..to an area - that has seen great depopulation.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- The next village is Sambuco - in northern Italy.
0:11:22 > 0:11:25- I'm meeting - student Erich Giordano...
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- ..and his grandmother, - Maria Bagnis, who farms.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35- I'm meeting them at Sambuco, - on the French Italian border...
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- ..in the Stura Valley, - an area known as the Cottian Alps.
0:11:40 > 0:11:45- These valleys experienced - heavy migration in recent decades.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48- SPEAKS ITALIAN
0:11:54 > 0:11:59- Chamonix attracts - many visitors and workers...
0:12:00 > 0:12:04- ..yet other regions - experience extreme depopulation.
0:12:04 > 0:12:08- A century ago, - some 1,200 people lived here...
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- ..but nowadays - there are fewer than 90.
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- Erich Giordano published the oral - traditions of the area in a book.
0:12:22 > 0:12:24- Hello, I'm Erich.
0:12:24 > 0:12:25- Hello, I'm Erich.- - I'm also Eric!
0:12:26 > 0:12:28- ITALIAN GREETINGS
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- Here's one of the deserted villages - - Narbona in the Grana Valley.
0:12:37 > 0:12:43- It's beautiful, but Erich Giordano - can see beyond the beauty.
0:12:50 > 0:12:54- I agree that this is - a beautiful area on the surface.
0:12:55 > 0:12:59- It would be difficult - to imagine any problems here...
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- ..but I am not afraid to express - a critical view of the situation.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07- You must be critical.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12- One must also acknowledge the fact - that many people have left...
0:13:12 > 0:13:16- ..so the prospects for the future - are very bleak.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24- Erich is a scientist and author.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- His main interest is the fate - of his family's native tongue.
0:13:28 > 0:13:32- The language is still used - in the western region of Piedmont...
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..but it's in decline - due to the influence of Italian.
0:13:42 > 0:13:46- What made the people leave - so suddenly?
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- Erich returned to Narbona - with a former resident.
0:13:57 > 0:14:02- It appears that the residents - left in haste, leaving everything.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- This village was a busy centre - until some 40 years ago.
0:14:11 > 0:14:16- Young people under 18 years of age - feel trapped in an area like this.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18- They don't want to stay here.
0:14:18 > 0:14:23- They choose to leave in search of - work and start a family elsewhere.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- Let's have something to eat.
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- Let's have something to eat.- - Yes, maybe.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37- Your grandmother doesn't speak - English and I don't speak Italian.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45- I've lived here all my life.
0:14:45 > 0:14:47- When I speak to my children...
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- ..I'm pleased - that we live in such a safe place.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55- Those who move away - achieve a higher standard of living.
0:14:56 > 0:15:02- When I speak to them, I wonder - if they've made the right choice.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- As I think of the future in the - village and within the family...
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- ..I cannot foresee a new generation - taking my place.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19- My nephew - Adriano, is the last - sheep breeder in Sambuco.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- It has been a family tradition - for generations.
0:15:23 > 0:15:27- His great-grandfather and - grandfather were shepherds.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31- As a result of depopulation, - the wolves have returned...
0:15:31 > 0:15:36- ..endangering his livelihood - and the future of the farm.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58- In Narbona, Adriano - was overwhelmed with homesickness.
0:16:02 > 0:16:04- Why has everybody left?
0:16:07 > 0:16:11- The young girls left - to go and work in the cities.
0:16:11 > 0:16:13- We'd lost touch - with the outside world...
0:16:14 > 0:16:16- ..which made it difficult to stay.
0:16:16 > 0:16:18- The winter was particularly hard.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20- The women went into service - in Turin...
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- ..and young people were steered away - from our way of life.
0:16:41 > 0:16:47- This landscape had its own cultural - identity that formed over centuries.
0:16:47 > 0:16:51- People have left in droves, - leaving villages deserted.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- Back in Sambuco, - I had another coffee...
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- ..before I bade farewell - and resumed my journey.
0:17:23 > 0:17:27- Depopulation has taken its toll - on this region of the Alps.
0:17:27 > 0:17:32- It's becoming a natural habitat - for wild animals, like wolves.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- It's the age-long battle - between urban and rural areas.
0:17:36 > 0:17:40- It's an all too familiar story - back in Wales.
0:17:41 > 0:17:45- Young people flocking to the cities - to seek employment...
0:17:45 > 0:17:47- ..causes problems in rural areas.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51- There are fewer people - available to work...
0:17:51 > 0:17:53- ..maintaining families - and communities.
0:17:54 > 0:17:56- I've witnessed this problem - at Tremadog - my home.
0:18:05 > 0:18:10- I leave Italy for Switzerland - and travel to San Gottardo.
0:18:11 > 0:18:15- It isn't a picturesque region - but a thriving centre of trade.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18- I'm meeting Martin Immenhauser.
0:18:18 > 0:18:23- He was the manager at Sasso San - Gottardo - an underground fort.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- Morning, Martin. I'm Eric. - Pleased to meet you.
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- Nice model you have here.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32- Our Bernese Alps.
0:18:32 > 0:18:34- Our Bernese Alps.- - Yes, I recognize one or two of them.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- We have Eiger and Jungfrau.
0:18:37 > 0:18:39- Is this is the Lauterbrunnen Wall?
0:18:39 > 0:18:41- Is this is the Lauterbrunnen Wall?- - Yes.
0:18:44 > 0:18:49- During World War II, we were - under threat from many directions.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- We built a network of underground - caverns along the Alps...
0:18:55 > 0:18:57- ..to defend ourselves.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- The aim was to prevent - other countries from attacking us.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- The fort at San Gottardo was - the largest structure of its kind.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- The air purification and heating - systems are still in operation.
0:19:16 > 0:19:22- When it was closed in 1997, - they sought an alternative function.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27- The Gotthard Pass was crucial - for transport in the Alps.
0:19:28 > 0:19:31- That's why these forts were built.
0:19:33 > 0:19:39- We have some skis here. I used to - ski on this type when I was young.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- It's changed a lot.
0:19:45 > 0:19:49- Less than a kilometre away - from Gotthard stands another fort...
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- ..that's been refurbished as - an underground restaurant and hotel.
0:20:05 > 0:20:10- San Gottardo is more than a pass, - it's a place in its own right.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16- Transport has been important - to the area for centuries.
0:20:17 > 0:20:21- It's evident throughout the area - in its roads and railways.
0:20:24 > 0:20:29- This is one of the main themes of - the scheme, inspired by transport.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33- The image of the space changes - with those who make use of it.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- This is definitely the most - important route through the Alps.
0:20:47 > 0:20:49- 1,000 metres beneath the fort...
0:20:50 > 0:20:52- ..boring takes place - at an immense speed.
0:20:53 > 0:20:57- A tunnel is being built to connect - the northern and southern Alps.
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- The Gotthard Tunnel is the first - high speed tunnel in Switzerland.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- It'll take an hour off the journey - from Zurich to Milan.
0:21:06 > 0:21:08- The scheme costs - five billion euros...
0:21:09 > 0:21:15- ..and opens a new 180km route - to include a 57km tunnel.
0:21:18 > 0:21:23- A large number of major routes, - both roads and railways...
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- ..run through this region - of the Alps in Switzerland.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- We don't consider - the risks involved.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- Despite the responsibilities, - we are constantly aware...
0:21:34 > 0:21:39- ..that we do not own these passes, - we merely tend them.
0:21:44 > 0:21:47- The traditionally impoverished - district of Surselva...
0:21:47 > 0:21:49- ..lies to the east of Gotthard.
0:21:50 > 0:21:55- A lift will be built to carry people - from the tunnel to the town.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- The project - is known as the Porta Alpina.
0:21:59 > 0:22:04- It's an entrance to the Alps as the - station's directly beneath Surselva.
0:22:05 > 0:22:10- This would be the world's highest - lift and could transform the region.
0:22:11 > 0:22:15- These pioneering schemes - aim to reduce pollution...
0:22:15 > 0:22:17- ..and improve transport.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28- In the next programme, - I travel to Switzerland...
0:22:28 > 0:22:32- ..and Zermatt, where I was a - climbing instructor for five years.
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- The Matterhorn fills the valley.
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- I've scaled it seven times, - twice up the northern face.
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- It's an amazing mountain - and a symbol of the Alps.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32- S4C subtitles by Tinopolis
0:23:32 > 0:23:33- .