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0:00:04 > 0:00:09- The Alps, the highest mountains in - Europe stretch over 74,000 miles...
0:00:09 > 0:00:11- ..through eight countries.
0:00:11 > 0:00:14- Home to 14 million people.
0:00:16 > 0:00:21- The Alps are under threat - due to the thousands who flock here.
0:00:25 > 0:00:28- Hundreds of miles - separate Wales and the Alps...
0:00:28 > 0:00:31- ..but comparisons can be made.
0:00:33 > 0:00:36- We face similar problems.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39- I'll journey through the mountains - in search of a solution.
0:00:44 > 0:00:46- Matterhorn - The Alpine Mountain
0:00:50 > 0:00:54- The next stage takes me - to the heart of Switzerland...
0:00:54 > 0:00:57- ..and the country's - most famous icon.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- I've reached its peak seven times - - twice on my own.
0:01:01 > 0:01:03- The Matterhorn mountain.
0:01:11 > 0:01:14- The Swiss have tunnelled - through the mountains...
0:01:14 > 0:01:19- ..and use trains to reduce traffic - problems in the narrow valleys.
0:01:21 > 0:01:25- I'm going to Goppenstein Station.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- In order to enter the tunnel, - I'll drive my car onto the train.
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- I'll travel through the tunnel - to Kandersteg.
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- I've used this tunnel - many times in the past...
0:01:39 > 0:01:43- ..when I climbed - the Bernese Oberland and Eiger.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46- The weather would be terrible.
0:01:46 > 0:01:51- I'd travel on this to Zermatt - to climb in the Matterhorn region.
0:02:03 > 0:02:06- Zermatt is the town - at the foot of the Matterhorn.
0:02:06 > 0:02:09- Cars, lorries and buses are banned.
0:02:09 > 0:02:14- The only way to arrive is by train, - which gives time to reminisce.
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- The northern face is the most - challenging climb of the Matterhorn.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- I climbed it on my own in 1973.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- The following year, I returned - with three friends in the winter.
0:02:47 > 0:02:49- We were on our way - to climb the Matterhorn.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Before we reached the mountain...
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- ..about two or three feet - of fresh snow had fallen.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- It was impossible to find the path - in the deep snow.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- I was leading and the conditions - had become very dangerous.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- I was about to suggest - that we turn back...
0:03:08 > 0:03:10- ..and attach the rope.
0:03:16 > 0:03:18- Suddenly, I lost my grip...
0:03:18 > 0:03:21- ..and slid down the slope - in an avalanche.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- I thought I was going to die.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- At the end - of the 100-yard slope...
0:03:33 > 0:03:35- ..there was a 1,000-foot drop.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- Luckily, I managed to grab a rock...
0:03:41 > 0:03:45- ..and cling to it - as the avalanche swept over me.
0:03:45 > 0:03:50- I stopped within five yards - from the edge.
0:03:50 > 0:03:52- I was extremely lucky.
0:04:01 > 0:04:05- We reached the summit - after three cold, tough days.
0:04:06 > 0:04:08- All my friends were delighted.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- But the ascent had given me - frostbite on my toes.
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- Climbing and filming - on the Matterhorn...
0:04:16 > 0:04:19- ..opened a new chapter - in my life with the Alps.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- For many people, Zermatt is the - Mecca of their visit to the Alps.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- The Alps sit on the borders - of France, Italy and Germany.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- But, in Switzerland, - they form the centrepiece.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00- This is why - they're important to the country...
0:05:00 > 0:05:05- ..the economy, tourism - and the identity of the Swiss...
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- ..as well as to mountaineers - and climbers like myself.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- I met an American...
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- ..who ran an adventure school - at Zermatt every summer.
0:05:34 > 0:05:38- He asked if I'd work for him - for about eight to ten weeks...
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- ..running the school's - climbing department.
0:05:41 > 0:05:46- I came here every summer - for five years.
0:05:46 > 0:05:50- I spent six weeks - teaching the Americans to climb...
0:05:51 > 0:05:53- ..and showing them the mountains.
0:05:53 > 0:05:59- It was a happy time for me - and teaching them was a pleasure.
0:06:01 > 0:06:06- I made a lot of American friends - and I keep in contact with them.
0:06:14 > 0:06:18- In the shadow of the Matterhorn, - climbers gather to tackle the peak.
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- Inexperienced climbers - must have a professional guide.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- The president of the - Zermatt Guides Association...
0:06:25 > 0:06:30- ..is Bettina Sulliger-Perren - who is the only female guide.
0:06:37 > 0:06:41- I recall many instructors - with the same surname as Bettina...
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- ..during my time at Zermatt.
0:06:43 > 0:06:45- Hello, Bettina. I'm Eric.
0:06:45 > 0:06:47- Hello, Bettina. I'm Eric.- - Nice to meet you. Sit down.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- It's a beautiful day.
0:06:49 > 0:06:50- It's a beautiful day.- - It is.
0:06:51 > 0:06:52- Did you walk here?
0:06:52 > 0:06:53- Did you walk here?- - Of course.
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- Some families have done it - for generations.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- Most of them are in Zermatt.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- My grandfather - and his four brothers were guides.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- We have many visitors at Zermatt...
0:07:29 > 0:07:34- ..including inexperienced climbers - who want to scale the Matterhorn.
0:07:39 > 0:07:41- They're shocked when we get there.
0:07:41 > 0:07:46- It isn't a difficult mountain, - but you must know how to climb it.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53- Bettina has climbed - to its summit 50 times.
0:08:00 > 0:08:04- It's a dangerous mountain, - but easy to climb on the main route.
0:08:05 > 0:08:10- For safety purposes, - each climber has a mountain guide.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- On average, ten climbers - are killed on it every year.
0:08:36 > 0:08:39- Bettina is preparing to climb - to the peak again.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- It's difficult to get up early - to start climbing...
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- ..but the moon and dawn - are an amazing sight every time.
0:08:56 > 0:09:00- Three friends were killed - on this striking mountain.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05- Two of them had made the ascent - up the dangerous route safely...
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- ..but were killed by falling rocks - descending down an easy route.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12- My third friend - died on the Furgen ridge.
0:09:12 > 0:09:14- It's a beautiful mountain...
0:09:14 > 0:09:19- ..but I feel happiness and sorrow - when I see it again.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24- When I started visiting the Alps...
0:09:24 > 0:09:27- ..I'd fill a van - with food and equipment...
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- ..then drive for three days - and spend the summer climbing.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36- We left when the weather changed - or when our pockets were empty...
0:09:36 > 0:09:40- ..but, shortly afterwards, - we'd plan for the following summer.
0:09:41 > 0:09:46- Mountaineering is safer today and - more people flock to the mountains.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48- I see it in Wales and the Alps.
0:09:48 > 0:09:52- As in Snowdonia, - mobile phones are a blessing...
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- ..and a burden on the mountain.
0:09:56 > 0:09:59- People are often unable - to come down in time.
0:09:59 > 0:10:02- They must have an overnight bivvy.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06- When they cannot tolerate the cold, - they phone us to collect them...
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- ..or their worried families - call out the rescue teams.
0:10:11 > 0:10:14- Often, these people - aren't in any danger.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- This takes up a lot of our staff - and our time...
0:10:18 > 0:10:21- ..when we could be doing other work.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- Usually, people begin climbing - in the middle of the night.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- It's safer before the sun - melts the ice...
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- ..and loosens gravel on the slopes.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37- It's one of the biggest dangers.
0:10:50 > 0:10:53- Everyone thinks that I'm the boss...
0:10:53 > 0:10:56- ..but the truth is, - I have 96 bosses.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- They tell me what to do.
0:11:03 > 0:11:08- I find work for the guides, make - sure the office runs smoothly...
0:11:08 > 0:11:11- ..keep the guides - and customers happy...
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- ..look after the mountain routes...
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- ..and ensure that - the safety points are in place.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- It's my job to keep everyone happy.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35- Bettina said that many clients are - surprised to see a female guide...
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- ..with such a dangerous job, - who's also a mother.
0:11:44 > 0:11:50- I bade farewell to a favourite - mountain and headed for Austria.
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0:12:02 > 0:12:02- 888
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0:12:08 > 0:12:11- In the Alps, - motorways and by-passes...
0:12:11 > 0:12:14- ..are the solutions - to their transport problems.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23- The beautiful valleys echo - with the sound of traffic and fumes.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- My journey takes me to Austria...
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- ..to Sonnblick, - Europe's highest weather station...
0:12:35 > 0:12:39- ..and to a Romansh community - in Switzerland.
0:12:39 > 0:12:43- I begin with another scheme - to reduce traffic in the Alps.
0:12:50 > 0:12:55- Architect, Michael Prachensky - lives in the Tirol area in Austria.
0:12:56 > 0:12:59- He wants to remove traffic - from the streets...
0:12:59 > 0:13:02- ..and into a system of tunnels - and smaller roads.
0:13:03 > 0:13:05- His project is called the Talpino.
0:13:05 > 0:13:08- The aim is to connect - Milan and Munich.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- It would be beneficial - for residents of the Alps...
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- ..lorry drivers and travellers.
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- Prachensky believes that - a new transport system is needed...
0:13:25 > 0:13:27- ..as the railway - belongs to another era.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37- I visited Michael Prachensky - to hear more about his ideas.
0:13:53 > 0:13:58- The Brenner Tunnel has - been under discussion for a year.
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- Show me the Talpino.
0:14:00 > 0:14:05- This is an interesting - Talpino project through the Alps.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07- It's an ecological project.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10- A tunnel of this type - is greatly needed.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13- Traffic levels have doubled - during the last 15 years.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16- In the future, it's expected - to increase more quickly.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- It'll get rid of all the pollution.
0:14:20 > 0:14:26- This project is one - of the best ideas through the Alps.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30- South and north-east Europe - would be linked by a long tunnel.
0:14:35 > 0:14:40- The Talpino system would have many - carriages to transport lorries.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- These would run independently...
0:14:44 > 0:14:49- ..so that they could stop and unload - while other carriages didn't stop.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- It would be driven by a combination - of magnets and air on rails.
0:14:59 > 0:15:03- The project would follow the natural - contour of the Alpine valleys.
0:15:04 > 0:15:09- It would be simple to use - like any road system.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15- The journey from Milan to Munich - would be 200km shorter...
0:15:15 > 0:15:18- ..than the present journey - via the Brenner Pass.
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- The Talpino would be made up of - a system of small 20km tunnels...
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- ..instead of a single long tunnel.
0:15:38 > 0:15:43- The politicians have decided - to improve the transport system...
0:15:43 > 0:15:48- ..but how do you persuade them that - Prachensky's pioneering scheme...
0:15:48 > 0:15:50- ..is worth serious consideration?
0:15:55 > 0:15:59- The residents of Val Lumnezia - in Switzerland speak Romansh.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- It's one of Switzerland's - four official languages.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07- Only 45,000 people speak it today.
0:16:14 > 0:16:19- The mountain village of Vrin - has a population of 250.
0:16:22 > 0:16:25- The locally-born architect, - Gion Caminada...
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- ..is responsible - for renovating the village.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- Caminada designs buildings - that complement traditions...
0:16:38 > 0:16:40- ..and the requirements - in his home town.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43- Gion, I'm Eric. Pleased to me you.
0:16:44 > 0:16:47- GION SPEAKS ROMANSH
0:16:49 > 0:16:53- Romansh is the only true - Alpine language...
0:16:53 > 0:16:56- ..spoken in Alpine regions.
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- Today, the language - is spoken only in remote valleys.
0:17:10 > 0:17:12- Gion employs many local people.
0:17:14 > 0:17:16- Creating work in the village - is important.
0:17:24 > 0:17:27- Romansh derives from Latin.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- What does the future hold - for this language?
0:17:38 > 0:17:43- The fate of Romansh - depends on combating depopulation.
0:17:43 > 0:17:47- Do our communities - want to preserve the language...
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- ..and does our society - think it has any value?
0:17:54 > 0:17:56- In addition to - preserving the language...
0:17:56 > 0:17:59- ..the area also faces - the problem of depopulation.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- I design multi-purpose buildings - to maintain local interest.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- This building - is a centre for people to meet...
0:18:17 > 0:18:20- ..a gym for children - and a venue for concerts and plays.
0:18:21 > 0:18:24- Caminada wants to - prevent depopulation...
0:18:24 > 0:18:28- ..by creating work and quality jobs - as an incentive to stay.
0:18:40 > 0:18:42- This fantastic scenery...
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- ..masks the major changes - unfolding in the Alps.
0:18:47 > 0:18:52- I've witnessed the shrinking of - glaciers in the Grindelwald area...
0:18:52 > 0:18:54- ..in the last 20 years.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58- This is due to global warming.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- Today, I've come - to the district of Rauris...
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- ..to meet Ludwig Rasser, - a weather expert.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- He works at the weather station - on the summit of Sonnblick.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- It's the oldest station in Europe.
0:19:28 > 0:19:29- Hello.
0:19:29 > 0:19:32- Good morning, Ludwig. - Where's the observatory?
0:19:32 > 0:19:34- LUDWIG SPEAKS GERMAN
0:19:34 > 0:19:36- How high is it?
0:19:36 > 0:19:37- How high is it?- - SPEAKS GERMAN
0:19:39 > 0:19:41- Scientist, Ludwig Rasser...
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- ..has worked at Europe's oldest - weather station for 20 years.
0:19:46 > 0:19:50- It's the perfect place - to detect changes in our weather.
0:19:59 > 0:20:03- Only one unsteady cable car - connects them with the valley below.
0:20:03 > 0:20:07- It's winter throughout the year - at this station.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- Even in the age of satellites, the - daily data collected by Ludwig...
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- ..throughout the year, in - all weather is extremely beneficial.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- LUDWIG SPEAKS GERMAN
0:20:33 > 0:20:38- Ludwig has witnessed huge changes - in the weather in the last decade.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- The number of days when - snow and ice cover the mountains...
0:20:45 > 0:20:47- ..is decreasing.
0:20:51 > 0:20:56- As a result, there's an increase - in avalanches, landslides...
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- ..and the glaciers are melting.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- This station collects information - about the atmosphere...
0:21:10 > 0:21:12- ..the rays from the sun...
0:21:13 > 0:21:16- ..and pollution in the air.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- It's one of the most - important sites in Europe.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- BOTH SPEAK GERMAN
0:21:47 > 0:21:51- It's a lonely life for Ludwig - and his co-worker in Sonnblick...
0:21:51 > 0:21:54- ..but their work - is relevant to us all.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- Ludwig observes the changes...
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- ..but we must decide - whether or not to prevent them.
0:22:26 > 0:22:27- In the next programme...
0:22:28 > 0:22:31- ..I visit one of the best - climbers in the world.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34- Join me at the castle - of the King of the Mountains.
0:22:40 > 0:22:42- I return to Switzerland...
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- ..to hear about the changes - on the treacherous Eiger mountain.
0:23:35 > 0:23:37- S4C subtitles by Tinopolis
0:23:37 > 0:23:38- .