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0:00:24 > 0:00:27- There's about another four hours.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29- You're running like a race horse!
0:00:38 > 0:00:45- I met Caradoc during preparations - for the '95 Everest campaign.
0:00:46 > 0:00:52- That's when I realised - what a good team we made.
0:00:52 > 0:00:58- We share the same sense of humour - and stamina.
0:01:06 > 0:01:10- Michael is an excellent partner.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- For some reason, - we work well together.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18- That's how mountaineering works.
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- You meet people - who are totally different.
0:01:22 > 0:01:24- They're often from abroad...
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- ..but you work well as a team.
0:01:42 > 0:01:48- Our friendship proved vital towards - the end of the Everest campaign.
0:01:50 > 0:01:57- We were caught in a storm - for three days at 8,300 metres.
0:01:58 > 0:02:05- Because we're such a good team, - everything works like clockwork.
0:02:06 > 0:02:13- We trust each other 100% and have - complete confidence in one another.
0:02:14 > 0:02:20- That's what kept us going. - It sustained us.
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- This is the first boat to arrive - since last October.
0:02:55 > 0:02:57- It's now July.
0:02:57 > 0:03:04- That's how long they've waited - for the season's food and goods.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- The boat was delayed - for three days outside the fjord...
0:03:09 > 0:03:12- ..before sailing in - through the ice.
0:03:19 > 0:03:25- A remote village on Greenland's - eastern coast has two names.
0:03:25 > 0:03:27- Officially it's known as Tasiilaq...
0:03:28 > 0:03:31- ..which means 'like a still lake'.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- But the original name was - Ammassalik - 'sea trout'.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- It changed - when a man called Ammassalik died.
0:03:41 > 0:03:44- Uttering his name - was considered disrespectful.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48- They changed the names - of the fish, too.
0:03:48 > 0:03:50- Most of the 1,600 population...
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- ..still hunt and fish for food.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01- There's a first time for everything!
0:04:01 > 0:04:03- There's a first time for everything! - - Certainly is!
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- This is Michael Jorgensen - and Caradoc's first reunion...
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- ..since the '95 success on Everest.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19- They want to find a new route up - the area's highest mountain...
0:04:20 > 0:04:22- ..100 miles north of Tasiilaq.
0:04:45 > 0:04:51- Andre Roche and a Swiss team - conquered Rytterkaegten in 1938.
0:04:52 > 0:04:54- They climbed the western ridge.
0:04:54 > 0:04:59- It remains the only route up - this remote mountain.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- But Caradoc and Michael - intend creating a new route.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- Flying to the mountains - can be a mistake.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25- There's a temptation to overload. - Time is of the essence.
0:05:26 > 0:05:31- They've 7 days to find a route, then - a 30 mile trek down a glacier...
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- ..to rendezvous - with a boat in a fjord.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54- They can't make contact with anyone.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- The nearest village - is 60 miles away.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02- But they've had the advantage - of seeing the mountain from the sky.
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- That south ridge looks good.
0:06:06 > 0:06:07- That south ridge looks good. - - Yes.
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- I had a good look at the col - the other side...
0:06:14 > 0:06:17- ..the descent - the other side looked OK.
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- The descent here on the north to - come back looked reasonable as well.
0:06:23 > 0:06:26- A couple of tricky spots - but not too bad.
0:06:34 > 0:06:38- They always said in school - I'd end up with a pick and shovel!
0:06:39 > 0:06:41- Mountaineers must be very wary.
0:06:42 > 0:06:47- We dig caves - in order to bury our supplies.
0:06:47 > 0:06:54- Foxes and birds could destroy - the food in our absence.
0:07:00 > 0:07:01- What do you reckon?
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- We've agreed the south ridge looks - the best new route.
0:07:08 > 0:07:09- Yes, positive.
0:07:16 > 0:07:18- They will recce in the morning.
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- One day dissolves into the next - on these latitudes.
0:07:23 > 0:07:24- Nightfall doesn't occur...
0:07:25 > 0:07:30- ..just shadows in the early hours, - when the sun is low.
0:07:31 > 0:07:34- It's the first time I've used skis - for mountaineering.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- This is going to be - very interesting.
0:07:41 > 0:07:46- I'm looking forward to this! - I went on a skiing holiday once.
0:07:49 > 0:07:53- That was years ago. I should have - learnt how to use them.
0:07:54 > 0:07:56- Here's my chance!
0:08:38 > 0:08:41- So, what do you reckon?
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- It's like a textbook Alpine ridge - isn't it?
0:08:45 > 0:08:49- Such an opportunity is very rare - for mountaineers.
0:08:50 > 0:08:54- As Caradoc mentioned, - it's a classic Alpine climb.
0:08:55 > 0:08:57- A little ice and some snow...
0:08:57 > 0:09:01- ..and the steep ridge - of an awesome, remote mountain.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05- But the honour lies in knowing - they'll be the first.
0:09:07 > 0:09:11- If I stay upright, Michael's buying - the first pint in Reykjavik.
0:09:12 > 0:09:14- If I fall - the first round's on me.
0:09:28 > 0:09:29- The first pint's on you, Michael!
0:09:29 > 0:09:31- The first pint's on you, Michael! - - He's doing quite well!
0:09:32 > 0:09:34- He's going faster and faster.
0:09:35 > 0:09:37- It's a ski hope from Wales.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- He's going to join the Olympics.
0:10:04 > 0:10:06- That was hard work.
0:10:06 > 0:10:07- It was worth it.
0:10:07 > 0:10:09- It was worth it. - - I spent some time chewing snow.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25- The recce's over. - The preparations are complete.
0:10:26 > 0:10:28- But the weather has turned.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32- They'll have to wait.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37-
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- Caradoc and his Danish friend, - Michael Jorgensen...
0:10:50 > 0:10:54- ..are in a pass beneath - Rytterkaegten's southern ridge.
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- They start early, to cross a glacier - before reaching rock.
0:11:00 > 0:11:04- Nobody has succeeded - from this direction before.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10- I have to admit, your work's - a little bit better than mine.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- This is where the ice ends.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59- Looking up...
0:12:00 > 0:12:02- ..all I can see is rock.
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- There are steep areas - but also some easier sections.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11- I hope we'll be able to move - quickly together.
0:12:33 > 0:12:35- This rock's a bit rotten in places.
0:12:36 > 0:12:38- You can't trust it everywhere.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- You really have to watch it.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- Something looks good - and then it moves.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50- Especially on the lead.
0:12:50 > 0:12:51- Yes.
0:13:01 > 0:13:03- There might be a ledge around here.
0:13:03 > 0:13:04- Right.
0:13:08 > 0:13:10- It doesn't look too bad.
0:13:10 > 0:13:12- A bit easier than that anyway.
0:13:13 > 0:13:19- The thrill of finding a new route, - gives climbers the biggest buzz.
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- It'll run quite good. That's it. - That'll be great.
0:13:29 > 0:13:31- OK, climbing again.
0:13:31 > 0:13:32- OK.
0:13:48 > 0:13:53- This route enables us to change - to the ridge's left side.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- Then we can find - the easiest possible way through.
0:14:07 > 0:14:11- There's a balance between - competition and trust with us.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15- For some reason, - the balance is just right.
0:14:16 > 0:14:23- I realised this when we faced a - very difficult situation on Everest.
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- It's impossible to create - even between close friends.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- It's one step removed - from simple friendship.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34- We both work hard - and trust each other's judgement.
0:14:38 > 0:14:40- It looks hard up ahead.
0:14:42 > 0:14:43- Say again?
0:14:44 > 0:14:48- Looks like there's a good hard bit - towards the top, it gets very steep.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- It gets much more steep now. - Definitely getting steeper.
0:15:27 > 0:15:29- Are you on safe ground, Caradoc?
0:15:29 > 0:15:30- Are you on safe ground, Caradoc? - - OK.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37- I made a small mistake there.
0:15:38 > 0:15:39- Yes!
0:15:39 > 0:15:40- Yes! - - You'd be on your way to Valhalla.
0:15:41 > 0:15:43- Off to have fun and beer there!
0:15:53 > 0:15:56- There's a nasty drop.
0:15:56 > 0:15:58- It's safer going across the top.
0:16:54 > 0:16:56- I think we'll have to belay here.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58- I think we'll have to belay here. - - It's OK.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13- Climbing in Greenland is weird.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- We're not worried about nightfall.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- It's a pleasure - not to have to hurry.
0:17:21 > 0:17:27- The last time Michael and I climbed - together on Everest we had to rush.
0:17:27 > 0:17:33- Either that or get caught on a ridge - by the summit before dark.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- But here, there's constant light - and plenty of air to breathe.
0:17:39 > 0:17:41- We needn't worry about that either.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- We decided to climb in one push...
0:18:12 > 0:18:16- ..and not carry sleeping bags - to lighten the load.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- It's been a long day. We'll have - to deceive our bodies to stay awake.
0:18:53 > 0:18:54- Interesting!
0:19:14 > 0:19:19- The ridge rises by 2,000 feet - in half a mile.
0:19:19 > 0:19:24- After a 12 hour climb, - the steep steps are still ahead.
0:19:24 > 0:19:25- Crack.
0:19:26 > 0:19:27- Yes?
0:19:27 > 0:19:29- Yes? - - Is the rope getting squeezed there?
0:19:29 > 0:19:30- Thanks.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- I think so.
0:19:34 > 0:19:36- Cheers, Mike.
0:19:49 > 0:19:54- To be the first to conquer - this climb, as we have done...
0:19:58 > 0:20:04- ..in Greenland, is interesting. - Nobody has been here before.
0:20:06 > 0:20:12- Such an adventure is the greatest - achievement in mountaineering.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- That was the last steep bit.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44- From the distance, - it had us worried.
0:20:45 > 0:20:47- There's a loose rock here, Michael.
0:20:47 > 0:20:48- There's a loose rock here, Michael. - - Alright.
0:20:51 > 0:20:53- I'm glad it didn't hit my head!
0:20:55 > 0:20:56- Serious hangover!
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- There's a good foothold - where it was though.
0:21:03 > 0:21:07- I hoped this would be - the last difficult pitch.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- Is there any more to go?
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- The ridge was endless. - We were both exhausted.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- The peak, success, - Michael's company.
0:23:14 > 0:23:19- I experience them all again. - I can't imagine a better scenario.
0:23:37 > 0:23:40- The wind is rising. - Snow begins to fall.
0:23:40 > 0:23:42- The route down looks impossible.
0:23:42 > 0:23:48- We'll have to find the right route - down, even though we're so tired.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51- We now face - a 12 hour downward climb.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55- Most will be - without the security of a rope.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59- In these circumstances, - only the best company will do.
0:24:31 > 0:24:33- Subtitles by- CYMEN