0:00:00 > 0:00:03- # THERE SHE GOES - The LAs #
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0:00:25 > 0:00:29- Having followed - the 52-degree line of latitude...
0:00:29 > 0:00:33- ..through Wales and England - and across the Channel...
0:00:33 > 0:00:35- ..I've arrived in Holland.
0:00:35 > 0:00:40- When I was a little girl, the only - thing I knew about Holland...
0:00:40 > 0:00:43- ..was the story about Peter - walking alongside a dyke.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- There was a hole in the dyke - and water was pouring through it.
0:00:48 > 0:00:53- He plugged the hole with his finger - and saved his country from drowning.
0:00:53 > 0:00:57- There's no truth to the story - - an American made it up!
0:00:58 > 0:01:01- This is the real truth - about Holland.
0:01:05 > 0:01:08- The land is low - and the estuaries are deep.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11- A large proportion - of the country's imports...
0:01:12 > 0:01:14- ..flow up this river - towards Rotterdam.
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- Parts of Holland - have been reclaimed from the sea.
0:01:22 > 0:01:26- Much of it remains - five metres below sea level.
0:01:29 > 0:01:35- Every now and then, the waves - try to reclaim some of the land.
0:01:35 > 0:01:39- A huge storm caused - widespread flooding in the '50s.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- 1,800 people were killed - and the Dutch people promised...
0:01:44 > 0:01:47- ..that such a thing - would never happen again.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- Here's what they built - - the Maeslantkering.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- The largest flood prevention scheme - in the world.
0:02:00 > 0:02:03- Margrit Dokter is the - Maeslantkering's liaison officer.
0:02:04 > 0:02:08- It's a big tourist attraction - these days.
0:02:08 > 0:02:13- Many people visit to see - this huge machine in action...
0:02:13 > 0:02:18- ..from local students to engineers - from as far afield as Egypt...
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- ..who have to cope - with similar aquatic problems.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33- The machine is controlled - by a computer.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- When the wind and the sea - reach a particular level...
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- ..these two arms, the same length - as the Eiffel Tower...
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- ..move two huge pieces of metal - across the harbour...
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- ..to restrict the water flow.
0:02:45 > 0:02:47- Basically, it's a quick-fire dam.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52- Severe storms are very infrequent.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55- But nature - is an unpredictable beast.
0:02:55 > 0:03:00- Knowing that the Maeslantkering is - there is a huge comfort to everyone.
0:03:13 > 0:03:18- In Den Haag, the capital city, - life is very laid-back.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21- There's an old saying in Holland.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- You spend your money at night - in Amsterdam.
0:03:25 > 0:03:29- You work hard and make your money - in Rotterdam.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32- And you rest in Den Haag.
0:03:32 > 0:03:38- Den Haag is also the home - of the Dutch government!
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- This shopping centre in Naaldwijk - won an award...
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- ..as one of the best centres - in Europe.
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- They have a sly way - of making you spend your money.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- The bins are very fragrant! - Flowers in the spring...
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- ..chocolate in the summer - and cinnamon at Christmas.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- They're meant to make you - shop harder!
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- Nice enough, but it doesn't make me - want to buy anything.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- Now, if they'd put - a fresh loaf in there...
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- Dutch people live life - at a leisurely pace.
0:04:15 > 0:04:21- They spend hours drinking coffee - and eating scrumptious cream cakes.
0:04:21 > 0:04:25- They also have a relaxed attitude - towards language and culture.
0:04:25 > 0:04:29- Jacob Burger and his family - live in Naaldwijk.
0:04:29 > 0:04:34- I asked him what he found different - between the Netherlands and Holland.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- Holland is a small section - of the Netherlands.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- Holland is like England and the - Netherlands are like Great Britain.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- Welsh people are annoyed when - people refer to Britain as England.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- The same happens here - - but it doesn't bother them.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01- Does that make - Welsh people paranoid?
0:05:01 > 0:05:06- I noticed that the English language - plays a big part in their lives.
0:05:06 > 0:05:09- Every birthday card I saw - was English-only.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- Again, they weren't too bothered - with that. There are more of them!
0:05:15 > 0:05:19- Some of the town's oldest houses - are found nearby.
0:05:19 > 0:05:23- They date back - to the seventeenth century.
0:05:23 > 0:05:28- There, a lady called Yani De Bruin - invited me into her house.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- I showed my house.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- She was quite a character.
0:05:34 > 0:05:35- She spoke perfect English...
0:05:36 > 0:05:39- ..after spending time - working as a nanny in Surrey.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- She knew about Wales - - she'd even visited Betws-y-coed!
0:05:44 > 0:05:49- This was in the 1600s and the 1800s.
0:05:49 > 0:05:51- I don't know exactly.
0:05:51 > 0:05:56- She has a wonderful house - but doesn't want to live in it.
0:05:56 > 0:06:01- She doesn't even want to live in - the Netherlands because of the rain.
0:06:01 > 0:06:06- Her only reason for living here - is to stay close to her mother.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- She's 94, and has suffered - three heart attacks.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- When her mother dies, - Yani will move to Portugal.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- Yani and her noisy parrot!
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- Hello! Behave yourself!
0:06:21 > 0:06:24- He doesn't like me.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29- He doesn't look too serious.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33- He just wanted some attention.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- Look at him - playing up to the camera!
0:06:38 > 0:06:42- When you see a tram, - you know you're abroad.
0:06:43 > 0:06:45- They still give you a shock...
0:06:45 > 0:06:50- ..when you're trying to remember - to drive on the right!
0:06:54 > 0:06:58- There's a good choice - of places to stay.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02- This was our hotel - - far better than the name suggests.
0:07:09 > 0:07:10- On we went.
0:07:11 > 0:07:15- The land is totally flat. - That's why they're so fond of bikes.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29- We didn't have to travel far to - reach our next destination - Delft.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33- You can't visit Delft without - visiting the Royal Delft Factory.
0:07:38 > 0:07:44- The most famous china in the world - has been produced here since 1653.
0:07:44 > 0:07:49- The original idea came from China - but the Dutch made it their own.
0:07:50 > 0:07:51- And it's not cheap!
0:07:53 > 0:07:57- Every single piece is hand crafted.
0:07:57 > 0:07:59- Everything is painted by hand.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03- Wilma Plaisier is one - of the youngest employees.
0:08:03 > 0:08:09- She works with her mother and her - uncle worked here for over 40 years.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- You need patience in this job.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- A steady hand and the ability - to sit still for hours.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20- You can't do this - after a night on the lash!
0:08:32 > 0:08:34- THEY SPEAK DUTCH
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- I asked her how long - she'd worked here.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- Wilma has worked here - for three and a half years.
0:08:52 > 0:08:56- She wants to become a master artist - - which takes ten years.
0:08:57 > 0:09:00- More training than a doctor - or a vet.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03- The salary is much lower, though.
0:09:05 > 0:09:07- The designs have transcended - the centuries...
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- ..and are as popular today - as they've ever been.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- First, they use a template - that's full of holes.
0:09:17 > 0:09:23- They rub a dirty cloth over it and - the pattern appears on the plate.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25- Then, the painting work begins.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- Tourists visit the factory - by the busload every day.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- Most come from America and Japan.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37- Fewer Americans have visited - since the 9/11 tragedy.
0:09:37 > 0:09:43- But those who come, love the place - and spend a fortune in euros here.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- I liked the Netherlands. - The people are very welcoming.
0:09:51 > 0:09:56- My journey so far was great. And - then we parked our cars in Gouda!
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- But I can assure you, it wasn't - going to be a good day in Gouda.
0:10:03 > 0:10:08- Last night we parked a Ford Mondeo - here and a Ford Fusion here.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10- Now - there's Ford all here!
0:10:10 > 0:10:12- I don't know if you heard that...
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- ..because they stole - our microphones, too!
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0:10:29 > 0:10:34- I'd like to report two cars stolen. - A Ford Mondeo and a Ford Fusion.
0:10:34 > 0:10:37- No - they weren't in the bin.
0:10:46 > 0:10:47- You've got them?
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- You've got them?- - "You" being the Gouda police.
0:10:50 > 0:10:55- When they find cars without windows, - they take them to a car depot.
0:10:55 > 0:10:59- Why are we following - a rubbish lorry?
0:11:00 > 0:11:02- The driver knew where the depot was.
0:11:03 > 0:11:08- The thieves smashed five windows - but didn't manage to open the doors.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- Most of our gear - was still in the car.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- Even my rucksack was found later - - smelling of cat wee!
0:11:16 > 0:11:18- We paid the police 200...
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- ..and followed the rubbish lorry - to a windscreen shop.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28- While all the fuss - was happening with the cars...
0:11:28 > 0:11:33- ..I was meant to be waffling here. - More on that later.
0:11:33 > 0:11:37- This is the lorry driver - who helped us this morning.
0:11:37 > 0:11:40- So, hartelijk bedankt, Willhelm.
0:11:40 > 0:11:42- Hartelijk bedankt.
0:11:42 > 0:11:44- HE SPEAKS DUTCH
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- You'll be welcome in Wales any time.
0:11:49 > 0:11:50- A good man!
0:11:51 > 0:11:56- Thank God for good men, even though - I couldn't understand him.
0:11:56 > 0:12:00- With the cars sorted out, - I went to see more of Gouda.
0:12:01 > 0:12:02- It's a pleasant place!
0:12:06 > 0:12:07- This is a clock!
0:12:08 > 0:12:13- Which reminds me - it's high time - I went to see those waffles.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18- These aren't the waffles - I was expecting.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- I was expecting huge square waffles - dripping with syrup.
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- Those are Belgian waffles. - These are Stroopwaffels.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- Traditional waffles - from the Netherlands.
0:12:30 > 0:12:32- You can buy them in Wales...
0:12:32 > 0:12:35- ..but they're also made - by a family from the Netherlands.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- Right - - I'm going to taste a waffle now.
0:12:39 > 0:12:44- My coffee is strong and black - - perfect after the morning I've had.
0:12:44 > 0:12:45- Here goes.
0:12:51 > 0:12:52- Mmm!
0:12:52 > 0:12:55- Lekker, as they say - in the Netherlands.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58- "Lekker" means tasty.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00- But I was still hungry.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- I went to look for some cheese - - Gouda cheese.
0:13:04 > 0:13:09- They don't make it here any more - - they only sell it here.
0:13:10 > 0:13:13- I couldn't visit Gouda - without sampling its cheese.
0:13:13 > 0:13:15- THEY SPEAK DUTCH
0:13:23 > 0:13:25- That's nice!
0:13:25 > 0:13:29- There are many different types - - the goat's cheese was my favourite.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Mmm!
0:13:35 > 0:13:38- Super goed? Or super lekker?
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- Super lekker!
0:13:42 > 0:13:43- Dank u wel.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- One of Gouda's main attractions - is the Church of St Janskerk...
0:13:51 > 0:13:53- ..the longest church - in the Netherlands.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- There's a superb view - from the tower.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- Maurits Tompot - is the church's curator.
0:14:07 > 0:14:12- Quite a character - and no, he - doesn't dress like this every day!
0:14:12 > 0:14:17- Catholic and Protestant services - are held in this church.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- But not at the same time!
0:14:20 > 0:14:23- The stained-glass windows - are the church's main feature.
0:14:23 > 0:14:25- Over 50 of them.
0:14:31 > 0:14:32- HE SPEAKS DUTCH
0:14:43 > 0:14:48- There have been numerous fires at - the church since the 14th Century...
0:14:48 > 0:14:52- ..but the windows - have always escaped serious damage.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55- Some date back to the 16th Century.
0:14:55 > 0:14:58- Each one depicts a biblical story...
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- ..or an aspect - of the Netherlands' history.
0:15:04 > 0:15:10- This one caught my eye - it depicts - the atrocities of World War II.
0:15:20 > 0:15:22- No, I'm not in Africa.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- This is De Hoge Veluwe - National Park.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- There are a thousand - white bikes here.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32- Anybody can use one free of charge.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35- But they're not like our bikes.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39- The brakes are on the pedals - - not the handles!
0:15:39 > 0:15:43- Don't cycle backwards - or you'll fly over the handlebars.
0:15:45 > 0:15:49- It took me some time to get used - to riding one.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01- Soon enough, I was king of the road!
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- One of the park's other attractions - is the Kroller-Muller Museum.
0:16:18 > 0:16:23- It has a garden full of sculptures - - one of the largest in Europe.
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- The picture gallery - is the biggest attraction.
0:16:38 > 0:16:43- The founder, a rich woman - called Helen Kroller-Muller...
0:16:43 > 0:16:46- ..loved Van Gogh's paintings.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- She bought 300 of his paintings.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54- Today, all are on show here.
0:16:54 > 0:17:00- This is the largest collection - of Van Gogh originals in one place.
0:17:01 > 0:17:04- This one's in my kitchen - - a copy of it, anyway.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- It's nice to see the original, - though.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10- Van Gogh himself - painted this picture.
0:17:11 > 0:17:13- His fingerprints are on it.
0:17:15 > 0:17:16- When I was there...
0:17:17 > 0:17:20- ..they were celebrating - Van Gogh's 150th birthday.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- His work wasn't appreciated - when he was alive.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29- He was totally bonkers - by the end of his life.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- But boy, could he paint!
0:17:38 > 0:17:41- You're scared to speak - in galleries like this.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- The final stop on my trip - through the Netherlands...
0:17:48 > 0:17:51- ..is a town which has strong - connections with Great Britain.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- Arnhem isn't the prettiest of towns.
0:18:01 > 0:18:06- It used to be - until it was - demolished in World War II.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- Some of the old buildings remain.
0:18:09 > 0:18:14- Glass and concrete eyesores blot out - the sunlight in some places.
0:18:14 > 0:18:18- The town was rebuilt in a hurry - - money was scarce.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23- There's not enough money to restore - it to its former glory now.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- This bridge has made Arnhem famous.
0:18:44 > 0:18:48- If you've ever seen the film - "A Bridge Too Far"...
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- ..you'll know that this - is that bridge.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- A huge battle was fought here...
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- ..between the Germans - and the British and Polish armies.
0:18:58 > 0:19:00- The Germans won the battle.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- They crossed the bridge, destroyed - Arnhem, killing hundreds of people.
0:19:05 > 0:19:08- Mrs Jos Caspers remembers it all.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- She was a 17-year-old schoolgirl - at the time.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24- It was September 17th, 1944.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- She remembers seeing hundreds - of British parachutists landing.
0:19:28 > 0:19:30- It was a wonderful sight.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35- Everyone was happy, - believing that freedom was nigh.
0:19:35 > 0:19:37- But that wasn't the case.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42- Her children and grandchildren - don't talk about the War.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- Only her contemporaries - understand what happened.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- 60 years have passed since then.
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- There are no problems when - she meets young Germans nowadays.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- But it's difficult when she meets - Germans the same age as her.
0:20:03 > 0:20:07- Some of the most fierce battles - in Europe were fought here...
0:20:08 > 0:20:10- ..only 60 years ago.
0:21:32 > 0:21:37- Tragically, 17,000 British soldiers - were killed in Arnhem.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43- Operation Market Garden - was a very ambitious mission.
0:21:43 > 0:21:47- It was meant to end the War...
0:21:47 > 0:21:50- ..by preventing - the Germans crossing the bridge.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53- Unfortunately, for the British - and Polish soldiers...
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- ..and the residents of Arnhem, - it failed.
0:22:32 > 0:22:35- I've only spent a short time - in the Netherlands.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- But even in such a short time...
0:22:39 > 0:22:44- ..I've sensed a strange relationship - between the Dutch and the Germans.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46- It's a very fragile relationship.
0:22:47 > 0:22:53- Arnhem was once a beautiful town - with grand, elegant buildings.
0:22:53 > 0:22:58- It was completely destroyed - in the intensity of battle.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- Today, - it resembles a concrete jungle.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04- The scars of war are very evident.
0:23:04 > 0:23:10- I don't think the Dutch will forgive - the Germans for quite some time.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- # THERE SHE GOES - THE LAs #
0:23:15 > 0:23:21- Next week, I'll be in Germany, - and crossing the border into Poland.
0:23:34 > 0:23:36- S4C subtitles by- TROSOL Cyf.
0:23:36 > 0:23:38