0:00:00 > 0:00:05- Hello! Ich bin jetzt in Deutschland - - I'm now in Germany.
0:00:06 > 0:00:08- 888
0:00:13 > 0:00:15- 888
0:00:20 > 0:00:22- 888
0:00:36 > 0:00:41- I'm travelling around the world - along the 52-degree latitude line.
0:00:41 > 0:00:44- I've crossed from the Netherlands - to Germany.
0:00:47 > 0:00:50- My journey has taken me - from Llandovery...
0:00:50 > 0:00:52- ..through England - and the Netherlands...
0:00:52 > 0:00:56- ..and I'm now in one of Europe's - largest countries.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- Munster is the first town you - come to after crossing the border.
0:01:01 > 0:01:04- It's full of magnificent - old buildings.
0:01:04 > 0:01:07- It's busy, the shops are great.
0:01:07 > 0:01:10- There are 55,000 students here, - 100,000 bikes...
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- ..and they come at you - from all directions!
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- You need eyes - in the back of your head!
0:01:17 > 0:01:19- Other than that, it's nice!
0:01:22 > 0:01:27- Munster is a lively academic town - similar to Oxford or Cambridge.
0:01:27 > 0:01:31- All those students and bikes - may account for that.
0:01:36 > 0:01:40- The standard of living - is quite high here.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- Even designer "hunde" - have to spend a penny!
0:01:48 > 0:01:51- But you need more than pennies - to live here.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- Buildings damaged during the War - have been skilfully restored.
0:01:56 > 0:01:58- The shops are posh and expensive.
0:01:58 > 0:02:00- Yes, another cathedral!
0:02:07 > 0:02:10- Munster may be a good introduction - to Germany.
0:02:11 > 0:02:17- But I headed east to a town I'd - never heard of before - Bad Pyrmont.
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- "Bad" means "spa".
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- There are indeed - some special springs here.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27- The water cures - all kinds of ailments.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- This has been a popular destination - for centuries.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- Especially if you're old and feeble.
0:02:38 > 0:02:42- You approach the bar - and decide which water you want.
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- Everyone has their own mug!
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- THEY SPEAK GERMAN
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- It's good for my eyes, - heart and joints.
0:03:07 > 0:03:08- THEY SPEAK GERMAN
0:03:14 > 0:03:17- My German O-level came in handy!
0:03:18 > 0:03:20- Looking good for 70, isn't she?
0:03:21 > 0:03:22- Good stuff, this water!
0:03:26 > 0:03:28- THEY SPEAK GERMAN
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- Mind you, some of the waters - tasted awful!
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- Bars are great places - for making new friends.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39- Bethan - yes, Bethan!
0:03:40 > 0:03:41- Beth-an! Bethan!
0:03:42 > 0:03:43- HE SPEAKS GERMAN
0:03:44 > 0:03:46- It's Welsh!
0:03:49 > 0:03:54- Why did he look at me like that - when I said I was Welsh?!
0:03:55 > 0:03:57- There are lovely gardens here.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01- This sculpture illustrates life - from beginning to end.
0:04:08 > 0:04:13- The focus is on pampering - the body, within and without.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- This leisure centre is wonderful.
0:04:16 > 0:04:21- But be warned - if you have - a sensitive nature, look away now!
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- This is not nice!
0:04:25 > 0:04:28- Travelling around the world - is hard work.
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- But being kneaded like this - by a man lessens the pain!
0:04:35 > 0:04:36- Oh, nice!
0:04:37 > 0:04:39- Danke!
0:04:46 > 0:04:48- I'm not saying anything!
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- A Welshman, almost - as clean and fresh as me...
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- ..had invited me to his home.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- Alan Williams came here - with the Army in '64.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- He met and married a local girl.
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- Finding his house was easy.
0:05:05 > 0:05:08- Life is good here, isn't it?
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- Oh yes. It's nice and peaceful.
0:05:11 > 0:05:13- How does it compare with Anglesey?
0:05:13 > 0:05:15- How does it compare with Anglesey?- - Well, Anglesey is peaceful, too.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17- Depends where you are!
0:05:17 > 0:05:19- Anglesey's a nice place, too.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24- I got the feeling that Bad Pyrmont - is full of old people.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28- I saw lots of people - with walking frames.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31- There are young people here.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- They may have bad backs.
0:05:33 > 0:05:35- Have house prices gone up?
0:05:36 > 0:05:37- No, not here.
0:05:37 > 0:05:39- Not much.
0:05:39 > 0:05:41- Not like at home.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- Well, I may come and live here.
0:05:45 > 0:05:49- We're sitting here enjoying a cuppa - and marzipan biscuits.
0:05:49 > 0:05:51- I won't move back to Anglesey.
0:05:52 > 0:05:53- No?
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- THEY SPEAK GERMAN
0:05:57 > 0:05:58- Welsh for ever!
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- You're a Welshman who lives here.
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- I don't blame him - - it's a lovely area.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- With that water to keep you - young and healthy...
0:06:10 > 0:06:12- ..who'd want to retire to Anglesey?
0:06:14 > 0:06:18- Off I went again, through - truly beautiful countryside...
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- ..that inspired the Brothers Grimm - many centuries ago.
0:06:36 > 0:06:37- A rat run.
0:06:37 > 0:06:39- Where will it take me?
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- This area abounds with fairy tales - and magical legends.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- You all know the story - of the Pied Piper.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- Yes, I'm in Hameln.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54- The Piper is seen everywhere.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59- The buildings are pretty, - but the Piper's story is milked...
0:06:59 > 0:07:02- ..to make sure we tourists - get our money's worth.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- Here at the Hochzeithaus...
0:07:05 > 0:07:08- ..the Rattenfanger-Glockenspiel - plays three times a day.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- Gosh, look who it is!
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- This is what happens - if you don't pay your bills!
0:07:29 > 0:07:34- They even have a real - full-time Pied Piper in tights!
0:07:34 > 0:07:36- This is Michael Boyer.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39- You wouldn't think he was American!
0:07:39 > 0:07:42- HE SPEAKS GERMAN
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- He came here with the Army, too.
0:07:52 > 0:07:56- He fell in love, learned - the clarinet and became a celeb.
0:07:57 > 0:08:02- He can't even go for a pint - without making the local paper!
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- A song to send you on your way.
0:08:06 > 0:08:07- # CLARINET #
0:08:19 > 0:08:23- I'm sure he'll carry on - enchanting children for years.
0:08:23 > 0:08:27- But he didn't get rid - of all the rats.
0:08:28 > 0:08:29- They turn up everywhere.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- These are made from bread.
0:08:36 > 0:08:43- On we go, across the border that no - longer exists, to eastern Germany.
0:08:47 > 0:08:48- This is Magdeburg.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53- The influence of Communism can still - be seen in its architecture.
0:08:53 > 0:08:58- Things have changed for the better - but there aren't enough jobs.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Young people tend to move away.
0:09:01 > 0:09:06- Residents of the former East Germany - pay an extra 5% tax...
0:09:06 > 0:09:10- ..to help regenerate the region, - but this takes time.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14- Many of us associate Magdeburg - with Hitler.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- This is one of the places - where he was buried.
0:09:19 > 0:09:22- Not that people here - were aware of it.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25- But there's more to this town.
0:09:25 > 0:09:26- After German reunification...
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- ..efforts have been made to create - a lively, thriving city...
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- ..where you can buy anything.
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- This square has always been called - Old Market Square...
0:09:38 > 0:09:43- ..though there was no market here - during the Communist era.
0:09:44 > 0:09:46- SHE SPEAKS GERMAN
0:09:47 > 0:09:50- Irmgard Urbahn - remembers the period well.
0:09:50 > 0:09:54- They only received exotic items - like bananas at Christmas...
0:09:54 > 0:09:57- ..and they had to queue for hours, - she says.
0:09:57 > 0:10:02- It's so different - after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
0:10:02 > 0:10:07- At first, they had trouble coming - to terms with extended choice.
0:10:07 > 0:10:09- They'd never had to choose before.
0:10:10 > 0:10:13- It affected every aspect - of their lives.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17- This frau with her shovel - commemorates the rubble women...
0:10:17 > 0:10:22- ..who cleared up after Magdeburg was - bombed to smithereens in the War.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27- And this is a famous son - of Magdeburg, Otto von Guericke...
0:10:28 > 0:10:30- ..the man who discovered vacuum.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- He was the first to demonstrate...
0:10:34 > 0:10:39- ..that it was possible to remove air - from a space.
0:10:39 > 0:10:42- Philosophers had argued - that it was impossible.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- He used eight horses - to try to pull a huge sphere apart.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- They failed, proving how strong - a vacuum can be.
0:10:51 > 0:10:52- HE SPEAKS GERMAN
0:11:00 > 0:11:03- They re-create the experiment - at the museum.
0:11:03 > 0:11:06- Air is pumped out of this sphere...
0:11:06 > 0:11:10- ..then weights are used - to test the vacuum's strength.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- No horses, but the point is proved.
0:11:15 > 0:11:17- HE SPEAKS GERMAN
0:11:31 > 0:11:36- Imagine the shock it must have - caused in Otto von Guericke's day.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38- THEY SPEAK GERMAN
0:11:45 > 0:11:50- Since the reunification of West - and East Germany in the late '80s...
0:11:51 > 0:11:54- ..money has flowed - into places like Magdeburg.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- The Jahrtausendturm - - Millennium Tower...
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- ..is the world's - biggest wooden tower.
0:12:01 > 0:12:04- An exhibition records mankind's - history and development...
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- ..over the past 6,000 years.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11- Each of the tower's six floors - represents 1,000 years.
0:12:14 > 0:12:17- To get this pendulum - to work properly...
0:12:19 > 0:12:24- ..the 52 degree latitude - had to be factored into the sums.
0:12:27 > 0:12:32- It will take time for the - former East Germany to catch up.
0:12:33 > 0:12:35- It will also take time...
0:12:36 > 0:12:41- ..for the West to accept that the - two countries are now united.
0:12:47 > 0:12:47- 888
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- 888
0:13:01 > 0:13:04- I travel on and arrive in Guben...
0:13:04 > 0:13:08- ..the last town - before crossing into Poland.
0:13:08 > 0:13:14- It's a small, rather poor town - but we had our warmest welcome yet.
0:13:14 > 0:13:18- The people of eastern Germany - are always ready to help...
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- ..and they're so grateful - for what they have.
0:13:22 > 0:13:28- It seems that those who have the - least are the most willing to share.
0:13:28 > 0:13:33- Guben was a German town but, - overnight, after World War II...
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..everyone who lived - that side of the river...
0:13:37 > 0:13:42- ..were ordered to leave their homes - because it was now part of Poland.
0:13:42 > 0:13:47- The River Neisse now splits - the town between two countries...
0:13:47 > 0:13:49- ..with two languages.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- This is Guben, that's Gubin.
0:13:51 > 0:13:56- Until 1972, there was no contact - at all between Guben and Gubin.
0:13:57 > 0:13:58- Things have changed.
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- Now, everyone can go back and forth - as they wish.
0:14:03 > 0:14:05- "Trennen und verbinden," - as they say...
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- .."the river separates - and also connects us."
0:14:11 > 0:14:16- I must now cross the river - into Poland as I follow the line.
0:14:16 > 0:14:22- I have to show my passport this time - - the European Community ends here.
0:14:23 > 0:14:24- For now, anyway.
0:14:28 > 0:14:30- I head for Zielona Gora.
0:14:31 > 0:14:36- I change my Euros for zlotys and - take in the town, which is pretty.
0:14:37 > 0:14:42- It's one of the few towns on the - line not scarred by World War II.
0:14:42 > 0:14:46- These buildings are old - but the paint is new.
0:14:47 > 0:14:50- It's a busy industrial city...
0:14:50 > 0:14:53- ..producing the best wine - and vodka in Poland...
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- ..and wool, carpets, - furniture and train wagons.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- There was a lot of kissing going on!
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- There's an exhibition...
0:15:04 > 0:15:08- ..of the work of one of Poland's - most famous painters...
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- ..Marian Kruczek.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- Kruczek became prominent - during the '60s and '70s.
0:15:17 > 0:15:22- He was quite a character, - very fond of drink and women...
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- ..and died young, - apparently as a consequence.
0:15:26 > 0:15:32- But he did a lot of very interesting - and unusual work before he died.
0:15:32 > 0:15:37- Most of his works are extremely - detailed, and some are way out.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- He liked using everyday objects - and he was keen on sexual symbolism.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45- I couldn't always see it, myself!
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- After centuries of oppression by - Germany and Russia on either side...
0:15:52 > 0:15:57- ..Poland is a poor country that - is quickly becoming regenerated.
0:15:57 > 0:16:02- People don't have much money but - they're always impeccably dressed.
0:16:03 > 0:16:04- The girls, anyway!
0:16:05 > 0:16:11- In Poland, there's a big difference - between a circle and a triangle!
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- For your information, - a circle means "Ladies"!
0:16:17 > 0:16:20- So what are those circles?
0:16:20 > 0:16:23- You can't do that in Snowdonia!
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- Beyond the town, - it was like going back in time.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- The old Polish way of life.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- They have tractors, - but horses are still important.
0:16:39 > 0:16:44- Small, winding roads were a nice - change after the German autobahns.
0:16:45 > 0:16:50- I'd been warned about the roads, - but they weren't that bad.
0:16:50 > 0:16:52- And I wasn't in any hurry.
0:16:53 > 0:16:56- This ferry is powered - solely by the current.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58- Very clever!
0:17:01 > 0:17:05- Though I hadn't expected it - to take a week!
0:17:07 > 0:17:13- Back on dry land at last, I headed - for one of Poland's major towns...
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- ..Lodz.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- I arrived at Lodz in no time.
0:17:21 > 0:17:26- Though it starts with an L, - it's pronounced "Ooj", not "Lodz"!
0:17:32 > 0:17:36- Because of their history, - the Poles are very proud people.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39- The national flag - is displayed everywhere.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- I never saw anything like it - in Germany or the Netherlands.
0:17:44 > 0:17:49- The atmosphere is that of a small - town - people are very sociable.
0:17:49 > 0:17:54- It's nice to see a country - honouring its talented sons.
0:17:54 > 0:17:59- Artur Rubenstein was one of them. - Look what big hands he's got!
0:18:08 > 0:18:11- This is Piotrkovska Street, - almost four kilometres long.
0:18:11 > 0:18:15- A rickshaw provides the ideal way - of travelling along it.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- Apparently there are 105 pubs - hiding behind these buildings.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- I bet the rickshaws come in handy - at closing time!
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- There's a very successful - film school here...
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- ..so the town is also known - as "Holly-Lodz"!
0:18:40 > 0:18:44- They even have a gallery of stars - on the pavement.
0:18:44 > 0:18:48- Mr Bednarek from the film school - showed them to me.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52- Yes, Roman Polanski - is a former student.
0:18:52 > 0:18:53- HE SPEAKS POLISH
0:19:11 > 0:19:16- Part of Lodz's history is involved - with a very different star.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25- Jews played a very prominent role - in the town's economic growth.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30- This is the biggest Jewish cemetery - in Europe - over 40 hectares.
0:19:32 > 0:19:38- Some of the tombs indicate how much - wealth there was here years ago.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42- The Poznanski family tomb.
0:19:43 > 0:19:44- They were business people...
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- ..who built some of Lodz's - most striking buildings.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- They lived a grand life...
0:19:51 > 0:19:54- ..and built an equally grand tomb - for the afterlife.
0:19:55 > 0:19:59- There's gold mosaic on the ceiling - and marble everywhere.
0:20:15 > 0:20:18- World War II changed everything.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22- In the old Jewish Quarter, - there was a ghetto...
0:20:22 > 0:20:27- ..where 230,000 of Lodz's Jews - were confined during World War II.
0:20:30 > 0:20:34- This is the old police station, - where they were tortured...
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- ..and forced to leave their - possessions and family assets.
0:20:39 > 0:20:44- These possessions were stored across - the road in the Catholic church.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48- From this old railway station...
0:20:49 > 0:20:53- ..the Jews of Lodz were transported - to Hitler's gas chambers.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- They had to strip - before boarding the train.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00- Their clothes - were taken back to Lodz.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02- The remaining Jews mended them...
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- ..and they were given - to poor German families.
0:21:06 > 0:21:09- Some mothers recognised the clothes - of family members.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- Standing here - is a very unpleasant experience.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18- 77,000 of Lodz's Jews, - including children and old people...
0:21:18 > 0:21:23- ..were taken along these very tracks - to the Chelmno concentration camp.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- Of that 77,000, - only five managed to escape.
0:21:27 > 0:21:29- Two managed to survive the War.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- Just one is alive today. - He lives in Israel.
0:21:33 > 0:21:35- Two years after the first train...
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- ..73,000 of Lodz's Jews were taken - on another train, in that direction.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- No-one knows what happened to them.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- They were taken - to Auschwitz-Birkenau.
0:21:46 > 0:21:51- Of the 230,000 Jews - who used to live in Lodz...
0:21:51 > 0:21:55- ..only 877 remained alive - at the end of the War.
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- Here's one line I'd rather forget.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- The line now takes me - to Biala Podlaska...
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- ..on Poland's eastern border.
0:22:15 > 0:22:20- This lovely, old-fashioned town - is famous in the equestrian world.
0:22:24 > 0:22:29- If you want an Arab horse, - head for the Stadnina Koni stud.
0:22:29 > 0:22:34- People flock here from afar to buy - the world's best Arab horses.
0:22:35 > 0:22:40- There's something more interesting - than a horse in a field beyond.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- Another border - - this is where Poland ends...
0:22:43 > 0:22:46- ..so this is the last Pole!
0:22:46 > 0:22:51- Belarus is over there, and the - Ukraine is in that direction.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- This marks the border with the West.
0:22:54 > 0:22:59- Soon, this will also mark - the boundary of the European Union.
0:22:59 > 0:23:03- I feel privileged - to have come this far...
0:23:03 > 0:23:05- ..and seen what I've seen.
0:23:05 > 0:23:10- In a few years, - what I've seen may be gone.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14- I selfishly want these places - to stay as they are.
0:23:15 > 0:23:20- But Poland is catching up - with the rest of Europe.
0:23:20 > 0:23:23- After centuries of suffering, - they deserve it.
0:23:30 > 0:23:34- Next week I'll be in Kiev - in the Ukraine.
0:23:35 > 0:23:39- And I'll have my first taste - of Russia.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- S4C subtitles by- TROSOL Cyf.
0:23:48 > 0:23:50