0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- 888
0:00:14 > 0:00:16- 888
0:00:25 > 0:00:28- The language and the currency - have changed...
0:00:28 > 0:00:30- ..and the alphabet - has changed completely.
0:00:30 > 0:00:34- It's the Cyrillic alphabet - for the next 7,000 kilometres.
0:00:35 > 0:00:36- This should be fun!
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- I'm in the Ukraine, - famed for painted eggs...
0:00:42 > 0:00:45- ..beetroot soup - and Cossack singing and dancing.
0:00:46 > 0:00:49- The city of Kiev, - pronounced "Keev", not "Key-ev".
0:00:49 > 0:00:53- Following the 52 degree - latitude line across Europe...
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..I encountered towns - I'd never heard of.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- But we've all heard of Chicken Kiev.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04- Forget Prague and Paris - - Kiev is the place these days.
0:01:04 > 0:01:08- It's been destroyed - by fire, Mongols and Germans.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- Today it's a pretty, lively, - cosmopolitan, friendly city.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21- Russian was the official language - during the Soviet era.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- Since 1991, it's been Ukrainian.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- Our interpreter, Yulia, - gave me a lesson.
0:01:29 > 0:01:31- THEY SPEAK UKRAINIAN
0:01:36 > 0:01:37- And goodbye?
0:01:37 > 0:01:38- And goodbye?- - Do pobachennia.
0:01:39 > 0:01:40- Again?
0:01:40 > 0:01:41- Again?- - Do pobachennia.
0:01:42 > 0:01:43- Do pobachennia.
0:01:44 > 0:01:45- Do pobachennia.
0:01:45 > 0:01:47- Do pobachennia.- - Do pobachennia.
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- The great Perschesk Lavra - monastery welcomes visitors.
0:01:54 > 0:01:58- This is the heart of Ukrainian, - and indeed Russian, religion.
0:01:58 > 0:02:03- Guess what "monk" is in Ukrainian? - "Mynach", same as in Welsh!
0:02:04 > 0:02:07- In 988AD, Tsar Vladimir converted - Ukrainians and Russians...
0:02:07 > 0:02:09- ..to Orthodox Christianity.
0:02:10 > 0:02:12- Vodka ruled out Islam!
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- Judaism failed to create unity, - so he chose Christianity.
0:02:17 > 0:02:19- Or so they say.
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- Two million people come here - each year, many of them pilgrims.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- Everyone wants to visit the caves.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34- It's dark and confined - and you really need a candle.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- Women must cover their heads.
0:02:37 > 0:02:39- # CHANTING #
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- The original monks - excavated these caves.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- Here they spent their lives - meditating and praying.
0:03:05 > 0:03:10- Here they were laid to rest, - and they still lie here...
0:03:10 > 0:03:12- ..900 years later.
0:03:12 > 0:03:16- The bodies haven't decomposed - and this is regarded as a miracle.
0:03:16 > 0:03:18- THEY SPEAK UKRAINIAN
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- He was the son - of a very famous person.
0:03:26 > 0:03:31- He decided to leave the outer world - and go to the monastery.
0:03:35 > 0:03:38- The atmosphere is strikingly - peaceful and spiritual...
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- ..though hundreds of pilgrims - and tourists come here each day.
0:03:49 > 0:03:55- I'm not religious, but it's hard - not to be affected by this place.
0:03:55 > 0:03:57- I feel very materialistic...
0:03:57 > 0:04:02- ..when I consider that those men - spent up to 30 years...
0:04:02 > 0:04:06- ..here, underground, without seeing - the light of day at all...
0:04:06 > 0:04:08- ..in these little rooms...
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- ..praying for me and you - and the world in general.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- It shames me, to be honest.
0:04:19 > 0:04:20- # CHANTING #
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- Though tourists are welcome, - it's really a place for prayer.
0:04:29 > 0:04:35- I felt like a voyeur and I was glad - to reach daylight again.
0:04:39 > 0:04:41- Ukrainian people are very cultured.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- There are 32 museums - and 33 theatres here...
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- ..and some extremely strange - statues.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- This is Mr Panikovsky, - who pretended he was blind...
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- ..so people would help him - cross the street.
0:04:57 > 0:05:02- But when they reached the other - side, their wallet had gone!
0:05:03 > 0:05:08- Mr Panikovsky of Kiev is a character - from a popular comic novel.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- Everyone knows him - and isn't that nice?
0:05:11 > 0:05:16- Shouldn't we have statues of Wil - Cwac Cwac and Sali Mali in Cardiff?!
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- Or William Jones - outside a chip shop in Bethesda?!
0:05:22 > 0:05:23- THEY SPEAK UKRAINIAN
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- Cabbage, yes?
0:05:30 > 0:05:31- Cabbage meat.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- Cabbage meat.- - Cabbage meat?
0:05:33 > 0:05:34- Cabbage, meat.
0:05:36 > 0:05:37- Yeah, OK.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- There's more to Ukrainian food - than Chicken Kiev.
0:05:43 > 0:05:46- Varenyky - small dumplings - stuffed with meat or potatoes.
0:05:49 > 0:05:53- I thought the waiter and I - had understood each other.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- Obviously, we hadn't. - I couldn't eat all this food!
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- I can't remember - how to say thank you!
0:06:07 > 0:06:09- Zdorovya!
0:06:09 > 0:06:11- Zdorovya!
0:06:21 > 0:06:22- That's strong!
0:06:24 > 0:06:26- It's good, too!
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- Vodka burns away cholesterol, - or so they say!
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- But this next place - sobered me up again.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- A museum chronicling - the Chernobyl disaster.
0:06:40 > 0:06:44- The nuclear plant - is 100 kilometres north of Kiev.
0:06:44 > 0:06:50- I've never seen a museum like it. - I was both touched and angered.
0:06:55 > 0:07:00- On April 26, 1986, reactor - number four at the plant exploded.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- Nine tons of radioactive material - escaped.
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- That's nine times more - than the Hiroshima bomb.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11- The results were catastrophic.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29- These workers at the plant - were the first to die.
0:07:29 > 0:07:31- Young men who had families.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38- The May Day festival - came three days later.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- Young girls danced unaware - of radioactive contamination.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48- The authorities - didn't want to cause panic...
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- ..so they didn't say - what had happened.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57- Eventually, people were ordered - to leave.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- "You'll be back - in two or three days."
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- But they never returned.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07- Their homes were demolished - and buried underground.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- Following the explosion, the wind - blew for days towards Belarus...
0:08:11 > 0:08:13- ..which suffered - the worst contamination.
0:08:14 > 0:08:16- SHE SPEAKS UKRAINIAN
0:08:19 > 0:08:22- ..as the cloud was shifted.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- It went to the United Kingdom.
0:08:27 > 0:08:32- An area of 30 kilometres around - Chernobyl remains restricted.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34- I hadn't quite understood.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- Over 70 towns and villages...
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- ..will remain contaminated - and deserted for ever.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- That's about the same size - as Meirionnydd.
0:08:45 > 0:08:49- Over 160,000 adults and children - died from radiation.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- Unofficially, of course.
0:08:52 > 0:08:53- Thousands are still suffering.
0:08:56 > 0:09:01- All these children are now dead. - Every one of them.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25- I would have enjoyed spending - more time in the Ukraine.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- It's an interesting country - with friendly people.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- Kiev's buildings and churches - are truly magnificent.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36- But what will remain - in my mind forever...
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- ..are what I saw and felt - at the Chernobyl museum.
0:09:46 > 0:09:47- Do pobachennia, Kiev.
0:09:57 > 0:09:57- 888
0:09:57 > 0:09:59- 888
0:10:01 > 0:10:06- No, not "Capatob" - S-A-R-A-T-O-V.
0:10:07 > 0:10:08- Saratov!
0:10:17 > 0:10:22- The line has brought me to Russia, - a country I've yearned to see.
0:10:22 > 0:10:26- Saratov was my first taste - of this huge country.
0:10:27 > 0:10:31- Saratov lies beside the Volga, - not far from Kazakhstan.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- Until 1992 it was a closed city.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- No-one could go there - unless they lived there.
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- Now, it welcomes everyone - with open arms.
0:10:41 > 0:10:43- It has grown tremendously.
0:10:43 > 0:10:46- Over one million people live here.
0:10:49 > 0:10:53- This is the longest river - in Europe - the Volga.
0:10:54 > 0:10:58- It's at its narrowest here - - only three kilometres wide!
0:10:59 > 0:11:02- Yes, I've reached Russia - and I'm in Saratov.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- Muscovites like coming here - on holiday because it's hot.
0:11:06 > 0:11:11- It's only May, 10 o'clock in the - morning, and it's already 30C.
0:11:12 > 0:11:14- I'm sweating like a pig!
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- Russia is a huge country.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- You could fit the British Isles - into it 69 times.
0:11:27 > 0:11:32- It has always been a military power - to be feared and respected.
0:11:32 > 0:11:38- There's a display of that power - at this World War II memorial park.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42- No-one praises their heroes - more than the Russians.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46- Saratov claims credit - for the greatest hero of all.
0:11:53 > 0:11:59- Yuri Gagarin was a son of Saratov, - and this is where he learned to fly.
0:11:59 > 0:12:03- I'm about to enter - one of his capsules.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- He must have been a very small guy!
0:12:07 > 0:12:12- On April 12, 1961, - at seven o'clock in the morning...
0:12:12 > 0:12:16- ..Major Yuri Alekseyevich Gagarin - became the first person in space.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- This is how he was!
0:12:22 > 0:12:25- Not much room, - and it's terribly hot!
0:12:29 > 0:12:31- Yuri is still a hero.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- His final word - before he went into space...
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- ..was "Poyekhali!" - "Let's go!"
0:12:37 > 0:12:42- The park was full of very - grandly dressed schoolchildren.
0:12:42 > 0:12:47- May 24 is a very important day - for Russia's schoolchildren
0:12:47 > 0:12:50- It's officially - their last day at school.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- They're celebrating - the end of childhood.
0:12:53 > 0:12:55- THEY SHOUT IN RUSSIAN
0:12:58 > 0:13:02- The hair ribbons - are a symbol of childhood.
0:13:02 > 0:13:07- But the celebrations are temporary - - exams begin next week.
0:13:11 > 0:13:16- In Saratov, I found one of the - strangest town emblems ever...
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- ..a loaf of bread - - a huge one called a kalach.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24- SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
0:13:24 > 0:13:25- SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN- - One like that?
0:13:28 > 0:13:33- You're supposed to stick your hand - into it - like this, yes?
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- Oh God!
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- There we go - oops!
0:13:40 > 0:13:43- And it springs back up! - It really does!
0:13:43 > 0:13:46- And now I'm supposed to eat it.
0:13:49 > 0:13:50- Mmm!
0:13:51 > 0:13:53- THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN
0:13:55 > 0:13:57- "Packet" - that's bag, not baguette!
0:14:01 > 0:14:03- Well, I've got my kalach.
0:14:05 > 0:14:09- It weighs a ton. - It should last me a fortnight!
0:14:13 > 0:14:18- On such a hot day, everyone was - enjoying ice cream in the park.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- Some were here to get married. Nice!
0:14:21 > 0:14:23- Others were here to sing.
0:14:24 > 0:14:27- This is a local band, - Saratov Harmonica.
0:14:27 > 0:14:31- Just the thing for Llangollen - and Sesiwn Fawr Dolgellau!
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- # ACCORDION MUSIC #
0:14:38 > 0:14:40- Music is greatly respected here.
0:14:41 > 0:14:46- Every town has a conservatory where - maestros teach young musicians.
0:14:46 > 0:14:48- Tuition is free.
0:14:48 > 0:14:52- At last I found someone - willing to share my loaf!
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- People are friendly - and sociable in Saratov.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- Though they weren't too keen - to share my loaf!
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- Kalach?
0:15:12 > 0:15:13- Don't, then!
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- Saratov is a lively, jolly, - utterly Russian city.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25- No signs in English, - like you get in Moscow.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- The Volga is responsible - for Saratov's prosperity.
0:15:30 > 0:15:33- For centuries, the river - has been important for trade.
0:15:34 > 0:15:39- But pollution is a big problem, - and fish and caviar are suffering.
0:15:39 > 0:15:43- It doesn't bother these - - they're still celebrating.
0:15:43 > 0:15:47- Natural sand makes it feel - just like the seaside.
0:15:47 > 0:15:53- The women are fit and pretty, making - me feel like a sack of potatoes!
0:15:56 > 0:15:58- The men aren't quite so fit!
0:15:58 > 0:16:01- Too much beer and not enough vodka!
0:16:03 > 0:16:04- Who'd have imagined?!
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- In the middle of Russia, - it's not even summer...
0:16:08 > 0:16:10- ..and everyone's on the beach!
0:16:11 > 0:16:13- Not our usual image of Russia.
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- I can't get over it! - I burnt my feet on the sand!
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- At nightfall, everyone flocks - to the riverbank.
0:16:36 > 0:16:41- The former schoolchildren continue - to celebrate until the early hours.
0:16:41 > 0:16:46- I would have joined them, but - mosquitoes were eating me alive.
0:16:46 > 0:16:51- Do svidanya, Saratov - time to move - on to another big city, Novosibirsk.
0:16:53 > 0:16:56- It meant crossing the Ural Mountains - into Siberia.
0:16:58 > 0:17:01- Another place - I've always wanted to see.
0:17:01 > 0:17:03- The image is a romantic one...
0:17:04 > 0:17:06- ..Christmas card landscapes, - Omar Sharif...
0:17:07 > 0:17:08- ..and great wide expanses.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- Today, the cities are big, - industrial and busy.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- Years ago, people were sent here - as punishment.
0:17:17 > 0:17:19- Today, people want to come here.
0:17:19 > 0:17:21- Novosibirsk is the Siberian capital.
0:17:22 > 0:17:24- Everything here is big.
0:17:24 > 0:17:28- The largest city in Siberia, largest - train station, largest library...
0:17:28 > 0:17:30- ..and Russia's largest theatre.
0:17:30 > 0:17:34- But the youngsters are preoccupied - with other things.
0:17:34 > 0:17:38- Lenin, leader of the - 1917 Bolshevik Revolution...
0:17:38 > 0:17:41- ..and founder - of the Communist Party in Russia.
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- Every town in the country - has kept its statue of Lenin.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- He caused suffering, - but he's part of history.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- This is the Church of St Nicholas.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55- It's famous for its location.
0:17:56 > 0:18:00- If you drew a line from - Vladivostok in that direction...
0:18:00 > 0:18:05- ..to Kaliningrad over there, - this would be bang in the middle.
0:18:05 > 0:18:07- This is Russia's - geographical centre.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- This church is only ten years old.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- The Bolsheviks - destroyed the old church...
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- ..because they were opposed - to religion.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- It's a very popular place - for weddings nowadays.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24- It may be small, - but there's enough room for three!
0:18:37 > 0:18:41- I met another national hero - at the Spartak Stadium.
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- A contemporary fencing hero.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- This kind of fencing, you hambone!
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- Stanislav Pozdnyakov has won - four Olympic silver medals.
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- He's the current European - and world champion at sabre fencing.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05- For the children of Novosibirsk, - he's a star.
0:19:08 > 0:19:13- Stavs gave me a lesson - - he said I could call him Stavs!
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- Like that?
0:19:20 > 0:19:21- You gonna step.
0:19:21 > 0:19:22- You gonna step.- - Step.
0:19:24 > 0:19:25- OK, so...
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- Make a lunge, maybe.
0:19:29 > 0:19:30- Like that?
0:19:31 > 0:19:32- Yeah, very good!
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- The coach wasn't so impressed!
0:19:37 > 0:19:39- OK.
0:19:39 > 0:19:40- Right, you hold this.
0:19:44 > 0:19:45- Oh, lovely!
0:19:46 > 0:19:48- What do you think?
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- Want to know what it feels like?
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- Stavs is 30 this year.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- He hopes to compete - at two more Olympics.
0:20:00 > 0:20:03- Remember that name - - Stanislav Pozdnyakov.
0:20:04 > 0:20:09- His main enemy is an Italian, - but he's the current numero uno.
0:20:09 > 0:20:11- He's my numero uno too!
0:20:12 > 0:20:15- He makes Putin look like a pudding!
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- This town was built specially - for academics back in the '50s.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28- Academgorodok, where the cream of - the scientific community gathered...
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- ..to work and conduct research.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35- Surrounded by nature and fresh air, - they earned big salaries.
0:20:42 > 0:20:47- The aim was to create Utopia, - but can you imagine it?
0:20:47 > 0:20:50- A city of nothing but scientists!
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- Like a city of nothing - but playwrights.
0:20:54 > 0:20:56- Or bards and nothing but bards.
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- Utopia?!
0:21:00 > 0:21:02- Things worked well, initially.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- But it ended - when the Soviet system broke down.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- There was no money - to keep the place going.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- Many academics moved abroad - for better salaries.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20- But some stayed and carried on - working for specialist institutions.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- This is the geology department.
0:21:23 > 0:21:24- Yeah, stones and stuff!
0:21:25 > 0:21:30- I wasn't expecting thrills, but it - turned out to be really interesting!
0:21:30 > 0:21:31- SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- There's a wealth of oil - and minerals in Siberia...
0:21:36 > 0:21:41- ..from Mirny diamonds to beautiful - purple charoite from Yakutia.
0:21:41 > 0:21:46- It's extremely rare and valuable - because there's none left now.
0:21:46 > 0:21:52- A big piece like this costs 20,000 - - too much for them and me!
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- I returned to Novosibirsk - - to the train station.
0:21:56 > 0:22:01- This is the biggest station - in Russia, and one of the grandest.
0:22:01 > 0:22:03- It's sparkling clean...
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- ..despite having 10,000 passengers - passing through each day.
0:22:06 > 0:22:08- Trains here are never late...
0:22:09 > 0:22:11- ..unfortunately!
0:22:11 > 0:22:16- I'm late for one of the world's - most amazing train journeys...
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- ..the Trans-Siberia.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- Seasoned travellers - dream of this journey.
0:22:22 > 0:22:28- It'll remain a dream for me - if these two don't get a move on!
0:22:28 > 0:22:30- Things didn't look good.
0:22:34 > 0:22:38- But I was allowed on in the end.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42- The Trans-Siberian Express is a - bit faster than the TrawsCambria...
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- ..and I won't have to spend ages - in Aberystwyth!
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- Poyekhali!
0:22:52 > 0:22:56- Next week, my journey - on the Trans-Siberian Express...
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- ..Lake Baikal, and eastern Russia.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- S4C subtitles by- TROSOL Cyf.
0:23:14 > 0:23:15