0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- 888
0:00:14 > 0:00:16- 888
0:00:28 > 0:00:34- Travelling along latitude line 52 - has allowed me to fulfil a dream.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38- I'm on the world's most famous train - - the Trans-Siberian.
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- There are 6,000 miles - between Moscow and Vladivostok.
0:00:42 > 0:00:45- It's the longest train journey - in the world - a whole week.
0:00:46 > 0:00:50- I'm only travelling part of it - - from Novosibirsk to Irkutsk.
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- Travelling first class means - that only two people share a cabin.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- This is my home - for the next two days.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- Very nice - these are my toiletries, - my wardrobe's up there...
0:01:05 > 0:01:08- ..cases underneath. - Even the mug is elegant.
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- Some travellers insist on completing - the journey in one go.
0:01:13 > 0:01:18- But I'd rather stop off at - some of the cities along the line.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21- They're cities, not towns - - and they're growing fast.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- The journey is long - with trees everywhere.
0:01:24 > 0:01:30- It's a good opportunity to read 'War - and Peace' or write a travel diary.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- Each carriage has a samovar - - a kettle.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- And a provodnitsa - - a female attendant.
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- They can be dragons - - but mine was very sweet!
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- She even brought me a cup of chai - when I nodded off.
0:01:47 > 0:01:49- My body needs sugar.
0:01:50 > 0:01:52- I'm adding some to my drink.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56- It's a strange journey - - but interesting at the same time.
0:01:57 > 0:02:02- Sitting around, reading books and - drinking chai is very tiring work.
0:02:03 > 0:02:04- But it's enjoyable.
0:02:04 > 0:02:09- It's a little warm, but the - air conditioning's kicked in now.
0:02:11 > 0:02:14- You expect Siberia to be cold.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17- It is, in winter, - but it's hot in the summer.
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- The railway was built at the - beginning of the last century...
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- ..across the world's largest forest.
0:02:25 > 0:02:26- It's a mechanical masterpiece.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- The country is huge - and there are trees everywhere.
0:02:32 > 0:02:35- I'm leaving the train - and the trees for now.
0:02:35 > 0:02:39- After three days of chai - and dried fish...
0:02:39 > 0:02:41- ..I've reached Irkutsk.
0:02:41 > 0:02:44- Goodbye, train - hello, bus!
0:02:56 > 0:02:58- Long before Christianity - arrived here...
0:02:59 > 0:03:01- ..shamanism - was the religion of Siberia.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- It dates back to the Stone Age.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- Shamans believe that every natural - thing has its own soul.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- Shamanism is quite common - throughout the world.
0:03:11 > 0:03:15- The name comes from Siberia - and the religion is strong here.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19- Situated in a lay-by - - a sacred shaman site.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- Alex Burmeister - gave me a lesson in shamanism.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29- After touching the wooden poles...
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- ..leave some roubles or tobacco - and coffee to appease the spirits.
0:03:34 > 0:03:39- And make enough noise to make sure - they know you've called.
0:03:40 > 0:03:42- I've always been interested - in shamanism.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- Alex took me to see a real shaman.
0:03:46 > 0:03:51- On we went through Buryatia - to the home of shaman Valentin...
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- ..near Lake Baikal.
0:03:54 > 0:04:00- Valentin is a native Buryat. - He extended us a very warm welcome.
0:04:00 > 0:04:06- This is the first time I've been - invited into someone's home...
0:04:06 > 0:04:07- ..on this journey.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17- As a shaman, - Valentin's travelled extensively.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- There are pictures of him meeting - dignitaries plastered on his walls.
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- His wife is an Evenki, - one of the oldest tribes in Siberia.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- They are closely related - to the Mongols and the Inuits.
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- She made enough food - to fill our stomachs for days.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- It was made of fresh, local produce.
0:04:46 > 0:04:51- ..culture and philosophy...
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- Valentin speaks a little English. - He also speaks German.
0:04:56 > 0:04:58- We communicated very well.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- After lunch, he dressed - in his shamanic clothing...
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- ..and took me - to a very sacred place.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- He guided me through a ceremony - which would ensure good luck...
0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..for the remainder of the trip.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- I'm throwing vodka - at these three poles.
0:05:49 > 0:05:50- One there.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- Pour some vodka here.
0:06:10 > 0:06:11- And then throw.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20- In the olden days, - people would use milk.
0:06:20 > 0:06:23- Vodka is used nowadays.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27- His thumb's been like that - since he was born.
0:06:28 > 0:06:30- It's one of the indicators - of being a shaman.
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- He also has a picture - of Genghis Khan on his chain.
0:06:35 > 0:06:37- We're not far from Mongolia.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40- Genghis used to - ride past here regularly.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- Before we leave, - he calls on the gods...
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- ..to thank them for a good journey.
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- Having secured our luck - for the remainder of the journey...
0:07:05 > 0:07:07- ..we set off for Lake Baikal.
0:07:08 > 0:07:13- Some call it the Pearl of Siberia, - and it's easy to see why.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- I'm on the shore of Lake Baikal, - the deepest lake in the world.
0:07:19 > 0:07:21- The line goes that way!
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- I'm going that way - on this boat.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- That's our home - for the next three days.
0:07:27 > 0:07:32- I'm going to have a shower - - as soon as the kettle's boiled!
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- It's not the biggest lake in the - world, but it's bigger than Wales.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44- It contains almost a fifth - of the world's freshwater.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48- If it was emptied, - it would take a year...
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- ..for the world's rivers to refill.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00- Baikal is almost 400 miles in length - and 50 miles across.
0:08:00 > 0:08:04- It's jam-packed with fish.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14- Look at the size of that!
0:08:19 > 0:08:21- This isn't too small!
0:08:22 > 0:08:25- There are 56 species of fish - in Baikal.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- This is a grayling.
0:08:27 > 0:08:32- There are sturgeons here - - some weighing 250lbs at one time.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34- They're smaller now.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37- But this one's big enough for me.
0:08:45 > 0:08:47- There aren't many ports on the lake.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- Alighting the boat is like trying - to tackle an assault course.
0:08:56 > 0:09:00- Luckily, I'm a Capricorn - - half goat, half fish.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06- Not a place to wear your stilettos!
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- The things I have to do - for my supper.
0:09:18 > 0:09:22- No prizes for guessing - what's for supper.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- The boys had lit a fire - using driftwood.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- Fair play - - they kept the best job for me.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- Open your mouth for Mami!
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- There's nothing better than eating - a fish you caught yourself.
0:10:09 > 0:10:09- 888
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- 888
0:10:16 > 0:10:20- Lake Baikal is the coldest place - I've visited so far.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23- I spent a lot of time below deck, - in my thermals!
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- In winter, this is - the world's largest ice rink.
0:10:28 > 0:10:31- The water is very clean and pure.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- You can drink water straight - from the lake...
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- ..and they say you'll live an - extra 25 years by swimming in it.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- I had no time to go for a dip.
0:10:43 > 0:10:45- Alex, the boat's owner, - welcomed us ashore.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- We could smell the market - from the boat.
0:10:49 > 0:10:54- They sell souvenirs and they also - smoke, dry and steam fish here.
0:10:59 > 0:11:02- It's painful - the smoke - goes straight into your eyes.
0:11:03 > 0:11:06- It smells nice - but the smoke is awful.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- I know they look strange, - but they're very tasty.
0:11:12 > 0:11:17- People chew them - while drinking beer.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- On we went to Alex's dacha.
0:11:21 > 0:11:25- A dacha isn't a first home - - it's more of a weekend home.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29- Almost every Russian family - has a dacha in the countryside.
0:11:29 > 0:11:33- Somewhere you can grow - your vegetables and enjoy clean air.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38- But they're not all like this. - This is a deluxe dacha.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43- Baikal! Yuri Gagarin!
0:11:46 > 0:11:50- The Government encouraged people - to own dachas during the Soviet era.
0:11:51 > 0:11:54- Buses were organised - to take people to their dachas.
0:11:55 > 0:11:56- Shaman shashlik!
0:12:00 > 0:12:01- Baikal shashlik!
0:12:01 > 0:12:02- Baikal shashlik!- - Baikal shashlik.
0:12:04 > 0:12:08- These kebabs have been prepared - the Baikal way.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- I'm really looking forward to them.
0:12:10 > 0:12:15- The recipe was given to Alex - by the shamans of Lake Baikal.
0:12:15 > 0:12:19- The secret is safe with him, - he says.
0:12:19 > 0:12:21- I'd never tasted better kebabs.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24- I received a very traditional - Russian welcome.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27- Spasiba, Alex - and dos vedanya.
0:12:30 > 0:12:35- And dos vedanya to Lake Baikal. I - hopped back on the Trans-Siberian...
0:12:35 > 0:12:38- ..and headed for Buryatia's - capital city - Ulan-Ude...
0:12:39 > 0:12:41- ..'red river' - in the Buryat language.
0:12:41 > 0:12:46- You needed special permission - to visit Ulan-Ude until 1987.
0:12:48 > 0:12:51- There's usually - a wonderful view behind me.
0:12:51 > 0:12:56- The Cossacks established the town - here in 1666.
0:12:56 > 0:12:59- Today, we can see very little.
0:12:59 > 0:13:03- And the reason - - the forests around us are on fire.
0:13:04 > 0:13:08- This is smoke - - and it's hurting my eyes!
0:13:08 > 0:13:11- It's been like this for a fortnight.
0:13:14 > 0:13:20- We couldn't see the sun, but it - was warm and humid in Ulan-Ude.
0:13:20 > 0:13:24- Everyone was queuing for kvass - - a thirst-quenching root beer.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- The welcome was warm, too!
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- Do you speak Welsh?
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- It wasn't the weather - to buy a fur hat...
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- ..but this is one - of the best places to buy one.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- I decided I had to try one.
0:13:50 > 0:13:51- Too warm!
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- Look, Mam!
0:14:02 > 0:14:07- I must admit, I liked this hat - - except for the pompoms.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09- But it was 50!
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- No - I didn't buy it. - But I know I should have.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22- Away from the hustle and bustle - lies a Buddhist monastery.
0:14:22 > 0:14:24- The Ivolginsky Datsan.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26- Russia's largest Buddhist centre.
0:14:26 > 0:14:27- Hello.
0:14:28 > 0:14:30- Good to see you here.
0:14:30 > 0:14:33- You're welcome - to the Buddhist centre.
0:14:33 > 0:14:36- A trainee monk called Chingis - welcomed me.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40- He gave me the history - of the datsan.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- All other datsans were destroyed - during the Soviet era.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47- Stalin allowed this one - to be rebuilt in 1946.
0:14:51 > 0:14:53- Explain now - what is this place?
0:14:53 > 0:14:58- This is the building of the Buddhist - institution - Dashi Choinkorlin.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- The trainee monks - are taught many things.
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- Analysis of old Tibetan articles, - mathematics, English...
0:15:10 > 0:15:14- ..and when I heard they knew about - Wales because of Llanfairpwll...
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- ..the next lesson became very clear.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19- Llanfair...
0:15:19 > 0:15:20- Llanfair...- - Llanfair...
0:15:20 > 0:15:22- ..pwllgwyngyll...
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- ..goger...
0:15:25 > 0:15:27- ..ychwyrndrobwll...
0:15:28 > 0:15:30- ..ychwyrndrobwll...
0:15:30 > 0:15:31- ..llan...
0:15:31 > 0:15:32- ..llan...- - ..llan...
0:15:32 > 0:15:33- ..tysilio...
0:15:33 > 0:15:34- ..tysilio...- - ..tysilio...
0:15:34 > 0:15:36- ..gogogoch.
0:15:36 > 0:15:37- ..gogogoch.- - ..gogogoch.
0:15:37 > 0:15:41- Well done! They speak Welsh!
0:15:43 > 0:15:47- When they're not in class, - the monks pray and meditate.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09- I truly enjoyed my visit - to the datsan.
0:16:09 > 0:16:15- It must be a special place - the - Dalai Lama has been here five times.
0:16:15 > 0:16:20- On I went to explore - the rest of Buryatia.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- The forests were still burning.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36- Just outside Ulan-Ude, - they've built their own St Fagans...
0:16:36 > 0:16:39- ..as a reminder - of Buryatia's history.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- You can see - how the Evenki used to live...
0:16:43 > 0:16:45- ..there are houses - built by Buryats...
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- ..and there are houses - from the early Russian period.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- In such a densely wooded area...
0:16:52 > 0:16:55- ..you wouldn't expect them - to build brick houses!
0:16:58 > 0:17:02- The museum is truly fascinating, - with old shaman teepees...
0:17:03 > 0:17:07- ..but this was my favourite building - - an old Buryat home.
0:17:07 > 0:17:10- The Buryats were a nomadic tribe...
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- ..but in the 19th century, - they started settling down.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20- This is a traditional Buryat house.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- This type of house would - normally belong to rich people.
0:17:25 > 0:17:29- There's a place for everything - and everything has its place.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- They all slept together here - - here's a wonderful baby's cot.
0:17:33 > 0:17:37- A hole in the ground for a fire.
0:17:38 > 0:17:40- There is one thing I don't like.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- Women stayed on that side, - men on this side.
0:17:44 > 0:17:46- Women prepared the food there...
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- ..men ate it here - but women ate it over there.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- Other than that, I love it here.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56- If I had one, - I'd live on both sides.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- From the traditional way of life - in Buryatia...
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- ..on I went to the far east - of Russia.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- This is the modern city - of Chabarovsk...
0:18:10 > 0:18:12- ..on the banks of river Amur.
0:18:13 > 0:18:19- I'm only 25kms from China, but this - looks like a very European city.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- During the day, Chabarovsk is quiet.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42- At night, it comes alive - down on the river banks.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- This is where people drink, - find love...
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..and catch the boat back - to their dachas.
0:18:50 > 0:18:53- Some are happy to watch - the sun set...
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- ..and pretend they're not - being bitten by mosquitos!
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- It's time for me to move on - once more.
0:19:02 > 0:19:06- I'm going to cross the sea - to the island of Sakhalin.
0:19:06 > 0:19:12- The island is the same size - as Scotland and very close to Japan.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- Russia and Japan have fought - over the island for centuries.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- Sakhalin was once home - to society's down-and-outs.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25- Chekhov visited the island in 1890 - and said it was hell.
0:19:25 > 0:19:29- It's improved since then - but it's still an odd place.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33- The old Soviet buildings contrast - with the grandeur of Chabarovsk.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- There's plenty of money here thanks - to oil, gas, coal and uranium.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42- But little of it is returned - to the local economy.
0:19:46 > 0:19:48- There are some grand buildings.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- This is one of them - the museum.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55- It contains artefacts from a time - before Russians lived here.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- Some of the tribes - had very peculiar customs.
0:20:00 > 0:20:03- One tribe worshipped bears.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- They would capture a bear cub - and choose a woman to rear it.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11- She had to breast-feed it. Aw!
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- When it had grown up, - they would honour it by killing it.
0:20:20 > 0:20:24- They would eat its meat - and make clothes from its fur.
0:20:24 > 0:20:29- People lived on Sakhalin before - the Japanese and Russians arrived.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- There were the Nivkhs, - the Oroks and the Ainus.
0:20:32 > 0:20:37- The Ainus moved to Japan, - there are very few Oroks left...
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- ..but 2,000 Nivkhs still live here.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- Unfortunately, only the old people - speak the language.
0:20:43 > 0:20:48- The youngsters don't speak it. - A way of life is disappearing.
0:20:48 > 0:20:53- Before long, another race - will only exist in a museum.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- Sakhalin came to the world's - attention in 1995...
0:20:59 > 0:21:03- ..when it was hit by the biggest - earthquake in Russian history.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08- Its plants are world-renowned. - Some are familiar enough.
0:21:09 > 0:21:10- Who'd have thought it?
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- This botanic garden has many - indigenous varieties of plants.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18- Most of these plants - are in my garden.
0:21:18 > 0:21:23- But here, they're covered in snow - for six months of the year.
0:21:24 > 0:21:25- This much snow!
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- They're very proud - of their plants here.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- That's in my garden.
0:21:34 > 0:21:36- So is that.
0:21:38 > 0:21:40- And that.
0:21:41 > 0:21:42- But these aren't.
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- Some of these - would come in handy in Wales.
0:21:57 > 0:22:00- Sakhalin is renowned - for its gigantic plants.
0:22:00 > 0:22:06- These are still young - within a few - months they'll be bigger than us.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22- I've reached the most - eastern point of Sakhalin.
0:22:22 > 0:22:27- This is the end of my journey - through Russia.
0:22:27 > 0:22:31- That's the Pacific Ocean. - But it's not pacified today.
0:22:39 > 0:22:44- I knew Russia was big. - It's more than that - it's gigantic.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48- I've come all the way from Saratov - to Sakhalin.
0:22:48 > 0:22:53- It's been an epic trip. - I've enjoyed every minute of it.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56- All good things must come to an end.
0:22:57 > 0:22:58- Russia ends here.
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- The Sea of Okhotsk is over there.
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- North America lies beyond that - - that's my next port of call.
0:23:07 > 0:23:11- As Yuri Gagarin once said - - 'poyekhali'.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19- Dos vedanya, Russia.
0:23:19 > 0:23:24- Next week, I'll be in Alaska - and the Rockies in Canada.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27- Somehow, I feel I belong there.
0:23:32 > 0:23:33- S4C subtitles by- TROSOL Cyf.
0:23:34 > 0:23:35