0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:04- The Bering Sea's over there, - the Pacific Ocean's over there.
0:00:04 > 0:00:07- This is where the two seas meet.
0:00:07 > 0:00:10- It's one of the best places to fish - in the world.
0:00:11 > 0:00:13- I've reached Alaska - and the Aleutian Islands.
0:00:14 > 0:00:16- 888
0:00:21 > 0:00:23- 888
0:00:28 > 0:00:30- 888
0:00:42 > 0:00:46- I've reached the country - where the sun never sets.
0:00:46 > 0:00:48- Aurora borealis country.
0:00:48 > 0:00:51- A country - which has more men than women.
0:00:51 > 0:00:54- I'm halfway around the world now.
0:00:54 > 0:00:57- I've crossed the date line - to Alaska.
0:00:57 > 0:00:59- Unalaska Island, to be exact.
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- It's part of the Aleutian Islands.
0:01:09 > 0:01:12- It's very green here - - it rains a lot.
0:01:12 > 0:01:17- There are no trees here - - it's too windy. Except for that one!
0:01:20 > 0:01:21- Looks familiar?
0:01:21 > 0:01:23- Yes - it's a Russian church.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28- The Russians colonised the island - back in the eighteenth century.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32- This cathedral church - - the Church of the Holy Ascension...
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- ..was built in 1894.
0:01:34 > 0:01:39- This is the oldest Russian - cathedral church in North America.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- 90% of the Unangan population - - the original settlers...
0:01:46 > 0:01:48- ..remain orthodox Russians.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51- Their services are incredibly long.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- Without chairs - and in three languages.
0:01:55 > 0:01:57- Old Slavonic, English and Unangan.
0:01:57 > 0:02:02- It was first written - by one of the Russian priests.
0:02:08 > 0:02:14- Here you can see he did - the translation in 1828.
0:02:16 > 0:02:20- Most of the original families - retain their Russian surnames.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- Believe it or not, back in 1867...
0:02:25 > 0:02:30- ..Russia sold Alaska to the USA - for less than two cents an acre.
0:02:31 > 0:02:33- The whole country cost 7.2m.
0:02:42 > 0:02:48- Alaska and the Aleutian Islands have - been part of America ever since.
0:02:49 > 0:02:53- Japan invaded some of - the islands during World War II...
0:02:53 > 0:02:56- ..and occupied - them for a short period.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- The Unangans were moved off - the islands during the invasion.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03- Everyone else was allowed to stay.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10- These are the remains of Unangan - houses - almost 3,000 years old.
0:03:10 > 0:03:16- A JCB will soon dig them all up - and a new bridge will be built.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- Local school children - have come to see the remains...
0:03:20 > 0:03:21- ..for the last time.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30- Fish and crabs sustain the - population in some shape or form.
0:03:30 > 0:03:35- More fish are caught here - than in any other part of the USA.
0:03:35 > 0:03:41- 40% of the USA's seafood - flows through this harbour.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- Over 400 shipping boats - from 14 different countries...
0:03:46 > 0:03:48- ..call here each year.
0:03:48 > 0:03:54- Some are very grand, and they catch - 1.2m lbs of fish every three days.
0:03:57 > 0:03:58- These are pollack.
0:03:58 > 0:04:01- They also catch halibut, - cod and crabs.
0:04:02 > 0:04:05- 800m lbs of fish - are processed here annually.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- I use the callipers to measure - the girth on it.
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- That helps us determine what's - going to happen with this fish.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17- I've never seen so many fish.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- The machines were amazing. After - the fish were positioned properly...
0:04:22 > 0:04:25- ..the machine would skin - and gut the pollack.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- They appeared at the other end - as fillets.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32- That's the belly and the backbone.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- Some are sold as fillets...
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- ..and the rest are made - into surami...
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- ..which is used to make - crab sticks and fish burgers.
0:04:44 > 0:04:47- There is another way - of fishing here.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- Recreational fishing - - which attracts a lot of visitors.
0:04:50 > 0:04:52- What a whopper!
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- This is the place - for halibut fishing.
0:04:55 > 0:04:58- Look at this one - just look at it!
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- That's the biggest halibut - caught anywhere in the world.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05- 459 lbs.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07- A dead ringer for Churchill!
0:05:07 > 0:05:10- There's a tax on fishing.
0:05:10 > 0:05:14- It brings about 5-6m - to the local economy every year.
0:05:14 > 0:05:19- The money is spent on the museum, - the library and the clinic.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- And Kelty Park, the softball stadium - where competitions are held nightly.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28- This is The Elbowroom. - According to Playboy Magazine...
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- ..this was North America's - wildest bar in the '70s.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- It was quiet when I called in.
0:05:35 > 0:05:37- Everywhere's quietened down - since the '70s.
0:05:37 > 0:05:38- Hello, how are you?
0:05:38 > 0:05:40- Hello, how are you?- - Can I sit here?
0:05:44 > 0:05:45- So, where are you from?
0:05:45 > 0:05:47- So, where are you from?- - Wales. Heard of Wales?
0:05:47 > 0:05:49- Well, he has now!
0:05:49 > 0:05:53- I was thirsty - but didn't know what to order.
0:05:53 > 0:05:54- Attitude Adjustment.
0:05:54 > 0:05:56- Attitude Adjustment.- - How about a Duck Fart?
0:05:56 > 0:05:57- A what, sorry?
0:05:57 > 0:05:59- A what, sorry?- - A Duck Fart.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- Sounds interesting. What is it?
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- Kahlua, Baileys and Crown Royal.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08- Yes - a Duck Fart.
0:06:08 > 0:06:12- And I had to sink it in one.
0:06:12 > 0:06:14- Just drink?
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- Oh, dear.
0:06:22 > 0:06:24- How was that?
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- How was that?- - Good. Have four or five more - and you'll be in good shape.
0:06:39 > 0:06:40- Like the hat?
0:06:40 > 0:06:44- This is the only thing they gave me.
0:06:44 > 0:06:49- There are eight men to every - one woman on this island. Oh, well!
0:06:50 > 0:06:57- I wanted to stay for another Duck - Fart, but I had a plane to catch.
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- That was our only stop in the USA.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08- The line doesn't touch - the country after that.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- But it goes right across Canada.
0:07:14 > 0:07:18- 50kms from the Aleutian Islands - and 80kms from Canada...
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- ..lie 154 small, secluded islands - that belong to Canada.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25- The Haida Gwaii Islands.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29- They were renamed Queen Charlotte - Islands during the Imperial era...
0:07:29 > 0:07:35- ..after the boat owned by George - Dixon who landed here in 1787.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38- They were called Haida Gwaii - long before that.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42- And Haida Gwaii is the popular name - for them once more.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45- 5,000 people live on the islands.
0:07:45 > 0:07:50- The local economy consists mainly of - tree felling, fishing and tourism.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- It's a lovely place.
0:08:00 > 0:08:05- Natives of the Haida tribe have - lived here for over 10,000 years.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09- Haida Gwaii means - land of the people of Haida.
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- They were the original elite tribe - of North America.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- True warriors, who rowed to Alaska - and California in their canoes.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- They brought slaves back with them.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28- Haidan men were known - as tough, strapping men.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- They were also very artistic.
0:08:36 > 0:08:39- Today, their art - is renowned throughout the world.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- Silver and gold jewellery, - argillite and wooden carvings...
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- ..and, more famously, totem poles.
0:08:46 > 0:08:51- The cedar trees here - grow taller than anywhere else.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- Haidan totem poles - are taller, thicker...
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- ..and better than all other - totem poles.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- The village - that this pole represents...
0:09:07 > 0:09:10- People like Tim Boyco - keep the tradition alive.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12- He makes a living making statues.
0:09:13 > 0:09:18- The figure below it is a cormorant. - That is under the eagle crest, too.
0:09:18 > 0:09:21- The only raven crest is the bear.
0:09:21 > 0:09:26- Every house used to have its own - pole tracing the family's history.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- Families belonged to the raven - or the eagle family.
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- Eagles would marry ravens - in the old days.
0:09:33 > 0:09:34- Are you eagle or raven?
0:09:34 > 0:09:35- Are you eagle or raven?- - Raven.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51- A warm water stream from Japan - heats the water around the islands.
0:09:51 > 0:09:54- A lot of rain falls here.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- Consequently, some cedar trees - are a thousand years old...
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- ..and the rainforests - have an abundance of wildlife.
0:10:05 > 0:10:07- There are thousands of deer.
0:10:07 > 0:10:12- And small creatures - like the beaver, weasel and racoon.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17- Sometimes, if you're lucky, - you'll see a black bear.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19- Yup - I was lucky!
0:10:19 > 0:10:24- The largest black bear in the world - lives in Haida Gwaii.
0:10:27 > 0:10:32- If you want to see a bald eagle, - this is the place to come.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- They're everywhere.
0:10:43 > 0:10:45- I've travelled thousands of miles.
0:10:45 > 0:10:50- This is the place I'd like - to revisit - Haida Gwaii.
0:10:51 > 0:10:52- It's a beautiful island.
0:10:53 > 0:10:54- The wildlife is amazing.
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- I've seen a bear - close up.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- I love the Haidan people.
0:11:01 > 0:11:05- I'm enthralled by their history, - their tradition and their art.
0:11:06 > 0:11:07- I'll definitely visit again.
0:11:08 > 0:11:09- When I've got money!
0:11:17 > 0:11:17- 888
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- 888
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- On to Canada's mainland - - British Columbia...
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- ..where salmon create traffic jams - in the rivers...
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- ..as they battle their way upstream - to lay their eggs.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43- After crossing the Hecate Strait - from Haida Gwaii...
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- ..our next stop was Bella Coola.
0:11:46 > 0:11:48- It's beautiful and cool.
0:11:49 > 0:11:54- You'll find little written about it - because it's so difficult to reach.
0:11:54 > 0:12:00- You can get there by boat or catch - a little plane for little people.
0:12:00 > 0:12:04- It was worth squashing into - the plane - look at that view!
0:12:11 > 0:12:15- Captain George Vancouver's crew - were the first white people...
0:12:15 > 0:12:20- ..to reach the mouth - of the Bella Coola river in 1793.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23- They arrived by sea - the easy way.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26- A Scotsman from Stornoway - named Alexander McKenzie...
0:12:26 > 0:12:30- ..was the first man - to reach here by land.
0:12:30 > 0:12:33- He trekked through the mountains - and trees...
0:12:33 > 0:12:35- ..and became the first man...
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- ..to find a route from the east - to the Pacific Ocean.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45- Over 200 years later, - this is Bella Coola.
0:12:45 > 0:12:48- A small, laid-back town - in a fertile valley...
0:12:49 > 0:12:51- ..at the foot - of the Coast Mountains.
0:12:52 > 0:12:57- The original settlers were Nuxalks - - more laid-back than the Haidans.
0:12:57 > 0:13:02- Many now earn a living fishing - for chinook, sockeye and chum.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05- And another fish - called the eulachon.
0:13:05 > 0:13:08- It's a high-maintenance occupation.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11- Tough, determined people - live in places like this.
0:13:11 > 0:13:13- People like Melfin Gurr.
0:13:13 > 0:13:18- 50 years ago, the only way - to reach the town was by sea...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21- ..or on horseback - over the mountains.
0:13:21 > 0:13:22- The government was adamant...
0:13:23 > 0:13:26- ..that building a road - to Bella Coola was impossible.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30- So the people of Bella Coola - built one themselves.
0:13:35 > 0:13:39- They had little money - but they were hard workers.
0:13:39 > 0:13:43- Melfin's father - was the brains behind the plan.
0:13:43 > 0:13:45- It was such a simple plan.
0:13:46 > 0:13:49- One bulldozer from the west, - one from the east...
0:13:49 > 0:13:53- ..burrowed their way through the - mountains, meeting in the middle.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- Their buckets touched - on September 26th, 1953.
0:14:00 > 0:14:02- This is the Freedom Highway.
0:14:03 > 0:14:06- And you thought Bwlch-y-groes - was steep!
0:14:15 > 0:14:19- Melfin's job was to blow up the - rock, with only a little dynamite.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22- There was no such thing - as overtime back then.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- They had a job to do - and that was it.
0:14:26 > 0:14:31- We worked a ten-hour day - and then we had our dinner.
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- Then we worked for free until dark.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- And you slept out in the open.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42- We slept in tents all the time.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45- It was quite a feat.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49- I enjoyed my time in Bella Coola - - and the landscape was superb.
0:14:52 > 0:14:56- The line continues to Alberta - in the heart of Canada.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- After crossing - the Coast Range mountains...
0:14:59 > 0:15:01- ..we find a mountain range...
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- ..that makes Snowdonia - look like molehills - the Rockies.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- Banff is right in the middle - of the mountains.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19- Named after Banffshire in Scotland.
0:15:19 > 0:15:24- Banff was built in 1885, - primarily to attract tourists.
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- The Canadian Pacific Railways - were responsible for the scheme.
0:15:28 > 0:15:32- They wanted to attract visitors - to the brand new spa town.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34- This is Banff's birthplace.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- The local Indians had always said...
0:15:37 > 0:15:41- ..that there was warm, natural - spring water in the mountains.
0:15:41 > 0:15:45- In 1883, three gold prospectors - smelt sulphur.
0:15:45 > 0:15:50- They looked down this hole - and found this warm-water spring.
0:15:51 > 0:15:55- Imagine the satisfaction of a warm - bath after weeks in the wilderness.
0:15:56 > 0:16:00- The town grew from here and Banff - National Park was established.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- Canada's first national park.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07- Today, Banff is one - of the busiest towns in Canada.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- 4.5 million tourists - visit the town each year...
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- ..to go rambling, climbing, - pony trekking and rafting.
0:16:14 > 0:16:19- In the winter, they go skiing - and climb the snow-topped mountains.
0:16:20 > 0:16:23- The town is quite small.
0:16:23 > 0:16:27- Everything's close together and - it's easy to find your way around.
0:16:28 > 0:16:31- It's like Betws-y-coed - - always full of visitors...
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- ..plenty of shops selling souvenirs - and climbing equipment...
0:16:35 > 0:16:37- ..and an abundance of shops...
0:16:38 > 0:16:42- ..that sell things you need - in this part of the world.
0:17:21 > 0:17:22- GUNSHOTS
0:17:31 > 0:17:34- All I need now is a horse!
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- One of the area's greatest - attractions is Sulphur Mountain...
0:17:49 > 0:17:51- ..which is 2,285 metres high.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59- I'm on my way up Sulphur Mountain.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- I'm a farm girl and I'm walking up.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06- Some people reach the top - in a gondola!
0:18:18 > 0:18:20- They were new shoes, OK?
0:18:24 > 0:18:28- It only takes eight minutes - to reach the top in a gondola.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- On foot, - it's a very steep 3.5 mile trek.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42- You're not allowed to bathe - in the original spring now.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- But you can bathe - at Upper Banff Hot Spring.
0:18:46 > 0:18:51- You can bathe and enjoy the view - at the same time.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- Now I know why you only see cowboys - on their horses!
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- This is wonderful. - Just what I needed.
0:19:00 > 0:19:06- The water emerges from the ground at - 39 degrees Celsius - it's fantastic.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10- Smells a bit of sulphur, - but I can cope with that.
0:19:14 > 0:19:17- The Rockies is world-renowned - for its wildlife.
0:19:17 > 0:19:23- 69 different mammals, 277 different - birds and 20,000 different insects.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- Lake Louise is situated - a few miles outside Banff.
0:19:28 > 0:19:31- It was named - after Queen Victoria's daughter...
0:19:32 > 0:19:34- ..even though - neither visited the lake.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- The lake attracts thousands - of visitors each year.
0:19:38 > 0:19:43- The lake's hotel - Chateau Lake - Louise, is an attraction in itself.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46- I found one - very special bellboy there.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49- You're not going to believe this.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51- This isn't fixed - - it's totally true.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- I'd just checked into my room - when there was a knock on my door.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- This young man was standing there - - he'd heard we were Welsh.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- He asked us if we knew people - from Bala.
0:20:04 > 0:20:10- I asked you if you were from Wales. - You said you were from Bala.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- You knew my grandmother - - well, you didn't know her...
0:20:14 > 0:20:16- ..you're actually my second cousin!
0:20:16 > 0:20:20- I'd never heard of him - - this is Andrew.
0:20:20 > 0:20:25- It's true - his grandmother and my - grandfather are brother and sister.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27- It was a bit of a shock.
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- It was a bit of a shock.- - Wow! Very much so.
0:20:30 > 0:20:32- Can you see the family resemblance?
0:20:32 > 0:20:37- You don't speak Welsh - but you have a few words.
0:20:37 > 0:20:42- A couple of words - "tyrd o'na" - and "nos da". That's about it.
0:20:42 > 0:20:44- "Tyrd o'na" - that's Bala!
0:20:44 > 0:20:46- "Tyrd o'na" - that's Bala!- - That's my grandmother talking.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48- Nain. - I'll teach you something else now.
0:20:49 > 0:20:53- When you go to Bala again, - you can say "s'mai".
0:20:53 > 0:20:55- It means hello - and "s'mai wa".
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- Especially in Bala. OK, "s'mai wa".
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- Especially in Bala. OK, "s'mai wa".- - Sorted! Brilliant.
0:21:01 > 0:21:06- We're going to talk about our - forefathers and catch up on things.
0:21:06 > 0:21:08- It's a small world!
0:21:08 > 0:21:10- Smile for the camera - family!
0:21:16 > 0:21:19- The Chateau has been here - since 1890.
0:21:19 > 0:21:23- You have to reserve a room - a long time beforehand.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- On the shores of this lake and - in the shadow of these mountains...
0:21:27 > 0:21:29- ..it's a fairy-tale location.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34- You can go pony trekking, - canoeing and skiing.
0:21:34 > 0:21:39- This is Bruce - a guide who'll - take you up to the mountains.
0:21:39 > 0:21:42- Swiss guides were the first - to arrive here.
0:21:42 > 0:21:46- That's why Andrew and the - other bellboys look like extras...
0:21:46 > 0:21:48- ..from The Sound of Music.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- The Swiss guides - that came to Lake Louise...
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- ..were hired - by the Canadian Pacific Railway...
0:21:55 > 0:21:59- ..and they guided guests here - for over 50 years.
0:22:00 > 0:22:01- Ooh, listen!
0:22:03 > 0:22:05- Hear that rumble?
0:22:05 > 0:22:08- That sound almost fills you - - that's an avalanche.
0:22:08 > 0:22:10- Literally, an avalanche.
0:22:10 > 0:22:12- We have an avalanche!
0:22:13 > 0:22:20- Carving off that band of ice - on the cliffs of Mount Victoria.
0:22:20 > 0:22:25- To put that in perspective, - that mountain's ten miles away.
0:22:26 > 0:22:28- That avalanche of ice...
0:22:28 > 0:22:31- ..occurs throughout the summer - quite regularly.
0:22:32 > 0:22:37- There's nothing like an avalanche - to end the programme with a bang.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40- It's time to go - - the flies are after us!
0:22:40 > 0:22:42- I've travelled - from Alaska to Alberta.
0:22:43 > 0:22:49- I didn't see a whale or a moose, - but I saw some wonderful places.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- I want to return to Haida Gwaii - some day.
0:22:54 > 0:22:58- The lakes and the mountains of - the Rockies have also gripped me.
0:22:59 > 0:23:02- It's such a beautiful place - to visit.
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- To cap it all, - I've met a new cousin.
0:23:06 > 0:23:11- Talk about the icing on the cake. - And there's more to come.
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- Next week, I'll explore - the rest of Canada...
0:23:21 > 0:23:25- ..through the snow and the ice, - all the way to Labrador.
0:23:30 > 0:23:33- S4C subtitles by- TROSOL Cyf.
0:23:33 > 0:23:34