Pennod 1

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0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888

0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888

0:00:03 > 0:00:09- Last year, I followed - the 52-degree north latitude line...

0:00:09 > 0:00:11- ..around the world that way.

0:00:12 > 0:00:17- This year, I'm following the - 5-degree west longitude line...

0:00:17 > 0:00:19- ..around the world this way.

0:00:19 > 0:00:23- Here, behind someone's - back garden in Goodwick...

0:00:24 > 0:00:27- ..both lines meet - - this is the crossroads.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31- South is that way - - and that's where I'm heading!

0:00:32 > 0:00:34- 888

0:00:38 > 0:00:40- 888

0:00:45 > 0:00:47- 888

0:00:50 > 0:00:52- 888

0:00:53 > 0:00:55- When I followed the latitude line...

0:00:55 > 0:00:59- ..the weather, the plants - and the length of day...

0:00:59 > 0:01:01- ..were mostly the same - all the way around.

0:01:02 > 0:01:04- Things will be different this time.

0:01:04 > 0:01:08- The line will take me through - some very different countries.

0:01:08 > 0:01:13- Pembrokeshire, Cornwall, Brittany, - Spain, Morocco and Mali...

0:01:13 > 0:01:15- ..Antarctica and the South Pole.

0:01:15 > 0:01:18- The line then changes - to 175 degrees east.

0:01:18 > 0:01:22- It will take me through New Zealand, - Fiji and the North Pole...

0:01:22 > 0:01:26- ..where I'll return - to the 5-degree west line once more.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29- On through the Faroe Islands - and Scotland...

0:01:30 > 0:01:32- ..bringing me neatly back - to Fishguard.

0:01:52 > 0:01:54- The line begins on the A40.

0:01:54 > 0:01:58- Like last time, it's difficult - to follow the line precisely.

0:01:59 > 0:02:03- It would take me through - fields, rivers, ditches...

0:02:03 > 0:02:05- ..the Sahara and Antarctica!

0:02:14 > 0:02:18- I'll be sweating and freezing - along the journey...

0:02:18 > 0:02:22- ..but for now, the weather is fine - and I'm getting wet!

0:02:23 > 0:02:25- This is the way - to explore the River Cleddau...

0:02:26 > 0:02:29- ..even if I'm ready - to regurgitate my breakfast!

0:02:32 > 0:02:34- During the reign of Elizabeth I...

0:02:34 > 0:02:37- ..this was one of the UK's - busiest ports.

0:02:37 > 0:02:41- Boats exported coal, - slate, butter and wool.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44- Today, - oil is the main industry here.

0:02:44 > 0:02:48- Every refinery has to sign an - agreement with the National Park...

0:02:48 > 0:02:51- ..before beginning - construction work...

0:02:51 > 0:02:56- ..promising the area will remain - the same when the work is over.

0:03:17 > 0:03:20- Not something you'd expect - to find in Pembrokeshire...

0:03:20 > 0:03:23- ..but the Army has been here - for years.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26- Here I am, - in Little England beyond Wales....

0:03:26 > 0:03:29- ..but this English part - of Pembrokeshire...

0:03:29 > 0:03:33- ..had bilingual - signs long before most other areas.

0:03:33 > 0:03:36- Unfortunately, - they were in German and English.

0:03:36 > 0:03:39- After the '60s, - and until very recently...

0:03:39 > 0:03:42- ..German soldiers - came here to train.

0:03:42 > 0:03:47- Members of the Territorial Army - train here at Castlemartin now.

0:03:48 > 0:03:50- The emphasis is on the use of tanks.

0:03:50 > 0:03:55- This is the only camp in Wales - where they train with real bullets.

0:03:56 > 0:03:58- These guys don't shoot blanks!

0:03:58 > 0:04:02- The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path - follows these rocks...

0:04:02 > 0:04:04- ..right on to the Army's land.

0:04:04 > 0:04:09- You are only permitted on this part - of the path at certain times.

0:04:09 > 0:04:12- Obviously, when the Army - isn't firing nearby!

0:04:13 > 0:04:17- When the path is closed, you have - to walk back to Castlemartin...

0:04:17 > 0:04:20- ..and re-join the path - at Freshwater West.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23- The coast here - is full of wildlife...

0:04:23 > 0:04:28- ..with birds such as guillemots, - razorbills and kittiwakes.

0:04:29 > 0:04:32- There are more sea birds - in Castlemartin...

0:04:32 > 0:04:35- ..than in any other part - of Pembrokeshire.

0:04:35 > 0:04:39- You'd expect all the gunfire - to scare them away...

0:04:39 > 0:04:43- ..but the Army doesn't fire its - weapons during the nesting season.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56- I thought I knew Pembrokeshire - quite well...

0:04:56 > 0:04:59- ..but every time I go there, - I discover new places.

0:05:00 > 0:05:02- Here's one of them - - Bosherston Lakes.

0:05:02 > 0:05:06- A wonderful place for a walk - on a pleasant afternoon.

0:05:10 > 0:05:12- These aren't natural lakes.

0:05:13 > 0:05:17- They were created - by the Cawdor family.

0:05:17 > 0:05:21- The family owned - the Stackpole estate...

0:05:22 > 0:05:25- ..between 1760 and 1840.

0:05:25 > 0:05:29- They didn't create them themselves. - They paid others to do that.

0:05:30 > 0:05:33- The lakes were left forgotten - for years...

0:05:33 > 0:05:37- ..until the National Trust - took them over in 1976.

0:05:41 > 0:05:45- And very nice they are, too, - but not as nice as here.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50- Broad Haven beach. One of the - most spectacular beaches in Wales.

0:05:50 > 0:05:55- I was meant to canoe out of the bay, - but not through those waves!

0:05:55 > 0:05:58- Even the surfers have gone home.

0:05:59 > 0:06:01- The journey through Wales is over.

0:06:01 > 0:06:04- The line goes through the sea now.

0:06:04 > 0:06:07- I have to follow it that way, - to Cornwall.

0:06:08 > 0:06:14- So far, I've followed the line from - Fishguard, through Pembrokeshire...

0:06:14 > 0:06:18- ..through Castlemartin, - and now across the sea to Cornwall.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23- The line reaches Cornwall - in Harlyn Bay...

0:06:23 > 0:06:27- ..and takes me on to Newquay, - Falmouth and St Mawes.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39- Here I am in Cornwall.

0:06:40 > 0:06:42- The line comes in around here.

0:06:42 > 0:06:45- This is one of the prettiest - coastlines in the UK.

0:06:45 > 0:06:48- It's almost as pretty - as Pembrokeshire.

0:06:48 > 0:06:52- Like Pembrokeshire, you have - a wonderful coastal path...

0:06:52 > 0:06:54- ..which you can follow - around the coast.

0:06:55 > 0:06:58- People see many similarities - between Wales and Cornwall.

0:06:59 > 0:07:03- That comes as no surprise. - We are more or less the same people.

0:07:03 > 0:07:06- When the Saxons invaded Britain, - we all fled to the west.

0:07:06 > 0:07:09- This lot forgot to turn right!

0:07:12 > 0:07:15- The area around - Newquay and Watergate Bay...

0:07:15 > 0:07:18- ..is world-renowned for surfing.

0:07:19 > 0:07:21- It's a mecca for waveriders.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25- Surfing competitions - are often held here...

0:07:26 > 0:07:30- ..and the streets are - full of trendy, long-haired men...

0:07:30 > 0:07:34- ..packed with testosterone, - who look very nice in neoprene.

0:07:35 > 0:07:37- In direct contrast to others!

0:07:40 > 0:07:44- When in Rome! Everyone surfs - in Cornwall, and so must I.

0:07:44 > 0:07:45- Don't film my bum!

0:07:49 > 0:07:54- The weather was far from perfect... - but what the hell!

0:07:56 > 0:07:59- Here's Tim, - my long-haired instructor...

0:08:00 > 0:08:02- ..who looks good in neoprene.

0:08:02 > 0:08:05- The first step was a quick lesson - on the sand...

0:08:06 > 0:08:08- ..before venturing into the water.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12- Let's see how we get on. - Let's get you a board first.

0:08:13 > 0:08:17- Mind your chest, arch our back - and bring our feet up.

0:08:17 > 0:08:18- Coil in that spring.

0:08:18 > 0:08:22- Coil in that spring.- - Any spring in my legs - has long since disappeared!

0:08:22 > 0:08:24- Oh, sorry!

0:08:25 > 0:08:26- No. 4...

0:08:26 > 0:08:30- Doesn't he realise - I'm a grown woman with a dodgy leg?!

0:08:30 > 0:08:32- I wasn't very confident.

0:08:35 > 0:08:40- Right, sit back and laugh - as I make a mess of it!

0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Ah, you didn't expect that!

0:09:07 > 0:09:09- Where are the World Championships?!

0:09:09 > 0:09:12- Yeah, you weren't that good, - my girl!

0:09:19 > 0:09:22- After a shower - and a mug of hot chocolate...

0:09:22 > 0:09:26- ..I set off along narrow roads, - through tiny villages...

0:09:26 > 0:09:28- ..like St Merryn.

0:09:28 > 0:09:32- I could have driven all the way - down to Falmouth...

0:09:32 > 0:09:35- ..but a ferry is much more fun.

0:09:35 > 0:09:39- It was an opportunity to speak - to someone other than myself.

0:09:53 > 0:09:55- Falmouth is a busy seaside town...

0:09:56 > 0:09:58- ..and very popular with visitors.

0:09:58 > 0:10:03- In 1600, there were only two houses, - a blacksmith's and a pub here.

0:10:03 > 0:10:08- Sir Walter Raleigh suggested that - it should be developed as a port.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12- These know where they are - - the 5 Degrees West Bar.

0:10:12 > 0:10:16- In a seaside town, - there are a number of sailors.

0:10:16 > 0:10:20- People who know everything - about latitude and longitude.

0:10:21 > 0:10:25- Nowhere in Cornwall is further - than 16 miles from the sea.

0:10:25 > 0:10:29- The sea is an integral part - of people's lives here.

0:10:29 > 0:10:31- The maritime museum is wonderful.

0:10:32 > 0:10:34- Interesting and quite educational.

0:10:34 > 0:10:37- If I had done this journey - 100 years ago...

0:10:38 > 0:10:40- ..there would be no TV - and I wouldn't be here!

0:10:40 > 0:10:44- Besides that, I couldn't use - a GPS device to find my way around.

0:10:45 > 0:10:46- I'd have a theodolite.

0:10:47 > 0:10:51- They were very dependable - if you knew what you were doing...

0:10:51 > 0:10:54- ..but in my hands, - I'd have ended up in Machynlleth!

0:11:00 > 0:11:03- I returned to the seas - and left Falmouth on another ferry.

0:11:03 > 0:11:07- It would take an age - to drive around the coast...

0:11:07 > 0:11:11- ..but it only takes half an hour - to cross the River Fal.

0:11:11 > 0:11:13- Yes, Fal. Fal-mouth!

0:11:13 > 0:11:16- It's a very pleasant journey...

0:11:16 > 0:11:21- ..passing hundreds of boats - used mainly for pleasure these days.

0:11:21 > 0:11:25- We pass the castles - of Pendennis and St Mawes...

0:11:25 > 0:11:30- ..which were built in the 16thC - in case the French invaded.

0:11:30 > 0:11:32- They never did.

0:11:32 > 0:11:36- I reach my final destination - in England - St Mawes...

0:11:36 > 0:11:40- ..a village which has changed - very little over the centuries.

0:11:41 > 0:11:43- It truly is a pretty town...

0:11:44 > 0:11:48- ..and house prices - have risen considerably recently.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51- Some of the houses - on the seafront cost over 1m.

0:11:52 > 0:11:53- They seem very familiar.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57- I was sure I'd lived here before, - in another life.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01- Then, I realised - they had filmed Poldark in St Mawes.

0:12:01 > 0:12:03- Do you remember the TV series?

0:12:04 > 0:12:07- Demelza and Ross - - Angharad Rees played Demelza.

0:12:07 > 0:12:10- I loved it. - I'm starting to show my age now!

0:12:19 > 0:12:23- This is where the line leaves - the land and re-enters the sea.

0:12:23 > 0:12:27- So, I'm leaving Cornwall and - heading for Brittany, which is...

0:12:28 > 0:12:29- ..that way!

0:12:35 > 0:12:35- 888

0:12:35 > 0:12:37- 888- - 888

0:12:46 > 0:12:50- Right now, it feels as if - the journey has really begun.

0:12:50 > 0:12:54- There's something about ships - - something romantic.

0:12:54 > 0:12:59- A feeling that there's something - new and exciting on the horizon.

0:12:59 > 0:13:01- Off we go!

0:13:07 > 0:13:11- This is Brittany Ferries' - brand new ferry - the Pont-Aven.

0:13:11 > 0:13:15- I was allowed on the bridge - when we left the harbour...

0:13:15 > 0:13:18- ..but I wasn't allowed - to talk to the captain.

0:13:21 > 0:13:24- The journey to Brittany - takes four hours.

0:13:26 > 0:13:28- This is where it takes us.

0:13:28 > 0:13:33- After leaving England, we follow - the line to island of Ouessant.

0:13:33 > 0:13:36- To reach there, - we must first sail to Brest.

0:13:40 > 0:13:44- This is one of best places - to sample the nightlife of Brest.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48- And you're supposed to say - the 't' at the end of Brest!

0:13:48 > 0:13:52- Le Tour Du Monde - - the journey around the world(!)...

0:13:52 > 0:13:57- ..is very popular with locals - - and very appropriate for me.

0:14:05 > 0:14:06- Mm!

0:14:07 > 0:14:12- This is the place to be at night - for mussels with wine and cider.

0:14:12 > 0:14:15- At home, we make do - with a lager and a kebab!

0:14:19 > 0:14:23- I was here to meet Fran May, - originally from Haverfordwest...

0:14:23 > 0:14:28- ..and Ronan Hirrien, who speaks - seven languages, including Welsh.

0:14:28 > 0:14:32- Be honest - what is the future - of the Breton language?

0:14:32 > 0:14:35- We can compare the situation here...

0:14:35 > 0:14:38- ..with the Welsh situation - 50 years ago.

0:14:38 > 0:14:43- Very few schools - teach through the medium of Breton.

0:14:44 > 0:14:49- It's very difficult to secure - any support from the government.

0:14:49 > 0:14:51- What do you think, Ronan?

0:14:51 > 0:15:00- Only about one per cent of - the children are taught in school...

0:15:00 > 0:15:02- One per cent?

0:15:02 > 0:15:04- One per cent?- - ..through the medium of Breton.

0:15:04 > 0:15:10- The older generation are proud - that they know Breton...

0:15:10 > 0:15:16- ..but they don't - speak Breton regularly...

0:15:17 > 0:15:21- ..with the people - who are trying to learn Breton.

0:15:21 > 0:15:25- There's a difference between - understanding the language...

0:15:26 > 0:15:28- ..and speaking the language.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31- The difference - between Brittany and Wales...

0:15:31 > 0:15:35- ..is that it's not natural to - walk into a shop and speak Breton.

0:15:35 > 0:15:40- It's not natural to speak Breton - in the shops or on the phone.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44- It's very difficult for people - to change their mindset.

0:15:44 > 0:15:48- When you're dealing with - official matters, you speak French.

0:15:49 > 0:15:53- I think it's a psychological - problem in Brittany.

0:15:55 > 0:15:57- Breton is seen as inferior.

0:15:57 > 0:16:01- French is an important language - and Breton is inferior.

0:16:02 > 0:16:05- That was the situation in Wales - for a long time.

0:16:05 > 0:16:09- Welsh was seen as inferior - to English, and look at us now.

0:16:09 > 0:16:14- Let's hope attitudes change - before it's too late.

0:16:14 > 0:16:18- I wish the Breton language - a prosperous future.

0:16:20 > 0:16:25- The following morning, I was up - at dawn to catch the boat...

0:16:25 > 0:16:28- ..that would take me - to the island of Ouessant...

0:16:29 > 0:16:32- ..or l'Ile d'Ouessant in French.

0:16:32 > 0:16:36- The sea was calm and there - were very few of us on the boat.

0:16:36 > 0:16:39- I was looking forward - to a quiet journey.

0:16:41 > 0:16:47- It was a lovely journey, passing - islands, cliffs and lighthouses.

0:16:49 > 0:16:53- Then, we stopped - in Le Conquet on the way.

0:16:59 > 0:17:03- When we set off from Brest, - there were 10 of us on the boat.

0:17:03 > 0:17:07- We've stopped in Le Conquet and - there's around 1,500 on the boat!

0:17:08 > 0:17:10- Some bloke's standing on my foot!

0:17:19 > 0:17:22- The island is very popular - with day-trippers.

0:17:23 > 0:17:26- There are very few places - to stay there overnight.

0:17:26 > 0:17:29- I would encourage you to stay there.

0:17:30 > 0:17:34- It's a friendly, beautiful - and very romantic island.

0:17:40 > 0:17:44- This beautiful harbour - is called Le Stiff.

0:17:48 > 0:17:52- The rocks and the current around - the island are extremely dangerous.

0:17:53 > 0:17:57- Hundreds of ships have gone aground - here over the centuries.

0:17:58 > 0:18:01- There are seven lighthouses - around the island today.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04- One of them, Jument, - was immortalised...

0:18:04 > 0:18:08- ..in a photograph - taken by Philip Plisson...

0:18:08 > 0:18:13- ..of a man standing on its steps - with waves crashing around him.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15- It's the Big Daddy.

0:18:21 > 0:18:24- This is one of the island's - most famous buildings.

0:18:25 > 0:18:27- It's the Creach lighthouse.

0:18:27 > 0:18:32- My taxi driver said that it's the - brightest lighthouse in Europe...

0:18:32 > 0:18:35- ..and before that, in the world.

0:18:35 > 0:18:38- They say you can see its light - from Cornwall.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46- In the lighthouse's - old boiler room...

0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..there's a museum which traces - the history of lighthouses.

0:18:50 > 0:18:55- I may as well admit, I expected - a museum about lighthouses...

0:18:55 > 0:18:57- ..to be quite boring.

0:18:57 > 0:18:59- But this was very interesting.

0:19:00 > 0:19:02- It reminded me - of Dr Who and the Tardis.

0:19:02 > 0:19:06- The effect of all the lights - was quite hypnotic.

0:19:06 > 0:19:08- It made me feel inebriated.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14- Some of these contraptions - date back to 1824.

0:19:18 > 0:19:22- I'd say this was a great place - for a photographer to visit.

0:19:22 > 0:19:26- Look - here's my cameraman - trying to be artistic!

0:19:40 > 0:19:43- The best way to discover - the island is by bike.

0:19:43 > 0:19:46- You can hire one from the harbour.

0:19:46 > 0:19:51- You can then explore the island - in your own time, at your own speed.

0:19:51 > 0:19:54- The island of Ouessant - is only 5kms by 8kms...

0:19:54 > 0:19:58- ..but there are some wonderful - sights to be seen.

0:19:58 > 0:20:02- All the doors and windows - are painted blue and white...

0:20:02 > 0:20:04- ..the colours of the Virgin Mary.

0:20:04 > 0:20:08- Wives would pray to her - when their husbands were at sea.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14- I was starving - after my bike ride...

0:20:14 > 0:20:19- ..so I decided to sample one - of the local seafood platters.

0:20:19 > 0:20:22- You certainly get - your euros' worth here!

0:20:25 > 0:20:27- This is langoustine.

0:20:27 > 0:20:29- Look, it's doing the breaststroke!

0:20:30 > 0:20:31- No - butterfly stroke!

0:20:31 > 0:20:33- I know what to do with these.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37- When I was 14 years old, - I stayed in Guerande...

0:20:38 > 0:20:40- ..which is twinned with Dolgellau.

0:20:42 > 0:20:47- I stayed with a family which - taught me how to eat food properly.

0:20:47 > 0:20:49- I think I remember how to do it.

0:20:49 > 0:20:51- This is very prickly.

0:20:51 > 0:20:54- Oh, a leg. I'll take that leg out.

0:20:55 > 0:20:57- You do this, right...

0:20:57 > 0:21:00- ..that, and it's supposed - to come out.

0:21:03 > 0:21:05- This is the meat.

0:21:06 > 0:21:08- This is nice.

0:21:11 > 0:21:13- It's attacking me!

0:21:15 > 0:21:17- I'm making such a mess!

0:21:19 > 0:21:21- Here's its stomach. - This is so tasty.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23- This is... Oh!

0:21:26 > 0:21:28- There's no need - for any lemon or salt.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32- Why aren't there - more of these in Wales?

0:21:32 > 0:21:36- Can I have another? I'll try again.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49- Yes, I stuffed myself!

0:21:49 > 0:21:54- Back on my bike, I burnt off some - calories and saw more of the island.

0:21:54 > 0:21:57- There's another museum here - - Niou house.

0:21:57 > 0:22:02- It shows how people lived here - in the 19thC.

0:22:02 > 0:22:05- The houses are split into two...

0:22:05 > 0:22:07- ..the everyday part - 'penn ludu'...

0:22:08 > 0:22:12- ..which included the fireplace - and the cooking area...

0:22:12 > 0:22:17- ..and the 'penn brao', where - the ornaments and plates were kept.

0:22:20 > 0:22:22- Trees don't grow here...

0:22:22 > 0:22:25- ..so all the furniture - has been made of driftwood.

0:22:26 > 0:22:28- Blue is again an important colour...

0:22:28 > 0:22:33- ..to ensure that the Virgin Mary - brings the sailors home safe.

0:22:53 > 0:22:55- As I leave the island of Ouessant...

0:22:56 > 0:22:59- ..the Celtic link - comes to an end - for now!

0:22:59 > 0:23:01- It'll reappear in Scotland.

0:23:01 > 0:23:04- But there's a long way to go - until then.

0:23:04 > 0:23:07- For now, as they say in French, - 'On y va'...

0:23:07 > 0:23:09- ..or in Breton, 'Deomp 'ta'.

0:23:09 > 0:23:11- Off we go!

0:23:14 > 0:23:17- Next week, - I'll be in northern Spain...

0:23:17 > 0:23:23- ..doing my best to stay on a horse - in the strong winds...

0:23:23 > 0:23:25- ..of Picos de Europa.

0:23:29 > 0:23:31- S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan