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0:00:06 > 0:00:08- Spain!
0:00:08 > 0:00:10- 888
0:00:15 > 0:00:17- 888
0:00:22 > 0:00:24- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- I've been to Spain before.
0:00:32 > 0:00:36- Apart from Lloret de Mar, - I like the country very much.
0:00:36 > 0:00:38- Spain isn't one country, though.
0:00:39 > 0:00:41- It consists - of a number of regions...
0:00:41 > 0:00:46- ..which differ in landscape, - weather, food, culture and language.
0:00:48 > 0:00:52- Many of us are happy enough - with Benidorm and Torremolinos...
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..but there's a lot more - to Spain than that.
0:00:56 > 0:01:00- I'm so fortunate to be following - the 5-degree longitude line...
0:01:00 > 0:01:03- ..south through Spain, - because I'm visiting the real Spain.
0:01:04 > 0:01:09- My journey starts in a fishing - village in northern Spain...
0:01:10 > 0:01:12- ..called Ribadesella.
0:01:14 > 0:01:19- You won't find a better area - in Spain for outdoor activities.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24- It's well-known for - adventure and wildlife holidays.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- So what am I doing sitting here? - Vamos!
0:01:28 > 0:01:30- So much to see, so much to do!
0:01:30 > 0:01:35- So far, I've travelled from Wales, - through England and Brittany...
0:01:35 > 0:01:37- ..and now I've reached - northern Spain.
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- The northern part - is known as Green Spain.
0:01:40 > 0:01:42- It consists - of four different regions...
0:01:43 > 0:01:45- ..including the one - I'm in now - Asturias.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54- This is Cangas de Onis, Asturias' - capital city in the eight century.
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- From here, the Christians regained - control of Spain from the Muslims.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- It took them 800 years to do so.
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- Because of its location, Cangas - de Onis is perfect for visitors...
0:02:12 > 0:02:15- ..who want to hike, bike and canoe.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- People flock here every summer.
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- Even in October, the town is packed.
0:02:27 > 0:02:32- This town is famous - for its 'queso' - its cheese.
0:02:32 > 0:02:35- One of its cheeses - is particularly 'fierce'.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- How can cheese be fierce?
0:02:38 > 0:02:42- They say the cheese - is matured in mountain caves.
0:02:42 > 0:02:46- Tasting a 'fierce' cheese - from a mountain cave was a must.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:02:54 > 0:02:58- This one's mild, - this one's quite strong...
0:02:58 > 0:03:03- ..and this is very strong - - real Cabrales cheese.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- Cabrales is the strong, - 'fierce' cheese.
0:03:11 > 0:03:13- Right, then.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- It smells like a man - who works in the fields...
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- ..and hasn't had a shower for weeks!
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- But I like that kind of smell! - Let's taste it.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- This is nice.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- If you've tasted Roquefort cheese, - it's similar but stronger.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- If you've never tasted Roquefort, - it's just nice, OK?
0:03:39 > 0:03:41- It's very strong, but I like it.
0:03:42 > 0:03:44- Rico! That's delicious.
0:03:44 > 0:03:46- Lovely.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- It was worth keeping it - in a cave for years.
0:03:51 > 0:03:52- Gracias!
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- The Picos de Europa mountains - were completely new to me...
0:04:05 > 0:04:07- ..as they are to many of you, - I'm sure.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- The Picos - are one of Spain's secrets.
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- 80% of visitors are Spanish.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17- I wouldn't want to tell - everyone about them, either.
0:04:17 > 0:04:23- There's a festival today, and I'm - sure 80% of Spain has turned up.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- I've come here to pony trek.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- This is Juan, - who'll keep me company.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- I was concerned about the wind.
0:04:35 > 0:04:37- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:04:42 > 0:04:46- It's very windy today, but we're - going to go out on the horses.
0:04:46 > 0:04:48- We're almost ready.
0:04:48 > 0:04:50- Vamos, si?
0:04:54 > 0:04:56- Fernando owns the horses.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- He's a farmer who looks after - his cattle on horseback.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- He's an expert with horses.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25- I told you it was windy. - After retrieving my hat...
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- ..I enjoyed every minute - of the trek, despite the gales.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- Wonderful horses, stunning views - and good company.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36- I was starting to fall in love - with Asturias.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04- We've just descended - from the mountains.
0:06:04 > 0:06:09- Fernando and his friend are on the - horses. Where are they going, Juan?
0:06:09 > 0:06:11- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- Adios!
0:06:17 > 0:06:19- Yes, I did understand that.
0:06:20 > 0:06:25- They were heading up the mountain to - round the cattle up for the winter.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- Cider is Asturias' - traditional tipple...
0:06:34 > 0:06:36- ..and I need a drink now.
0:06:37 > 0:06:42- As you can see, this isn't cider - out of a plastic bottle.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- This is real cider made - in these things behind me...
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- ..and this is how you pour it. - Gracias.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- I have to drink it in one.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57- On the head. - And then throw that away.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- They tell me this is the place - to come on a Saturday night.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- It's nine o'clock. - Where is everyone?
0:07:09 > 0:07:14- No-one in Spain comes out - to play before ten o'clock at night.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- After that, they carry on - until the early hours.
0:07:17 > 0:07:21- I'm off on my travels tomorrow, - so it's early to bed.
0:07:30 > 0:07:31- It's time to leave the Picos.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35- The traffic is heavy and - the roads are frighteningly narrow.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39- It's not easy - when you're not used to driving...
0:07:39 > 0:07:42- ..on the wrong side of the road.
0:07:43 > 0:07:43- LORRY HORN BLARING
0:07:43 > 0:07:45- LORRY HORN BLARING- - Ah!
0:08:14 > 0:08:16- The mountains are far behind me...
0:08:16 > 0:08:20- ..and I've reached Castilla y Leon.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25- It's a large, flat area - a type - of platform that's called 'meseta'.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- It's very different here. - Totally flat...
0:08:34 > 0:08:37- ..like a pancake or a tortilla!
0:08:37 > 0:08:42- This part of Spain experiences - the two extremes of temperature.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- In the summer, it's very hot...
0:08:45 > 0:08:47- ..and in winter, it's freezing cold.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50- It's autumn now, and it's perfect.
0:08:50 > 0:08:52- A little windy, but perfect.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- Castilla y Leon is surrounded - by mountains to the north and south.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- There are many towns - in the flat patch in the middle.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04- We'll be visiting Avila soon...
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- ..but Valladolid - is the region's capital city.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11- It's usually busy, - but it's very quiet today.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- No-one around - well, almost no-one.
0:09:15 > 0:09:19- It's a bank holiday, which lasts - for a weekend and more around here.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22- Everyone's gone to the Picos.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24- BELL CHIMES
0:09:37 > 0:09:39- This is where they're all hiding.
0:09:40 > 0:09:44- I'm not sure what's going on but - these look like important people.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48- It must be something to do - with the bank holiday.
0:09:50 > 0:09:54- Valladolid was once - a very wealthy city.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58- This was Spain's capital city - until 1561...
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- ..when Felipe II decided - to change it to Madrid.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05- Which is odd, - since he was born over there!
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- Felipe II ruled Spain - when Spain ruled the world.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15- He ensured that the Empire grew...
0:10:15 > 0:10:19- ..and his coffers were filled - with gold from the Americas.
0:10:19 > 0:10:24- He spent recklessly on wars - and he built majestic buildings...
0:10:24 > 0:10:26- ..like castles and churches.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- By the end, the coffers were empty.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- You can see art and culture - everywhere in Spain.
0:10:36 > 0:10:40- This is the country that gave us - Goya, Picasso and Salvador Dali.
0:10:40 > 0:10:45- The Museo Nacional de Escultura - in Valladolid...
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- ..is one of Spain's - most important sculpture museums.
0:11:04 > 0:11:08- The craftsmanship of some - of these sculptures is remarkable...
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- ..but after staring at room - after room of pain and woe...
0:11:13 > 0:11:17- ..well, it was too much for me.
0:11:17 > 0:11:21- Call me a Philistine, but I was - desperate for something...
0:11:22 > 0:11:23- ..to cheer me up.
0:11:39 > 0:11:41- THEY SING IN SPANISH
0:11:45 > 0:11:51- That's better. These students - travel around entertaining people.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- Not everyone appreciates them - as much as me!
0:12:20 > 0:12:20- 888
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- 888
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:12:38 > 0:12:41- My Spanish isn't great, - but Valladolid University...
0:12:42 > 0:12:44- ..offers Spanish lessons - for foreigners.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- I just need to find - the blinkin' place!
0:12:53 > 0:12:59- In Valladolid, they speak - the most correct form of Spanish.
0:12:59 > 0:13:04- These students come from all over - the world - and they're very good!
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- Hola! Buenos dias.
0:13:06 > 0:13:09- Como estas?
0:13:09 > 0:13:11- This is Isabella, the tutor.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14- I'm starting to feel - quite nervous now.
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- ISABELLA SPEAKS SPANISH
0:13:25 > 0:13:28- She wants me to introduce myself - and tell the others what I do.
0:13:29 > 0:13:31- How do I say I'm an author?
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Oh, hang on, in Espanol.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:13:47 > 0:13:50- So, 'escritora' is author, - but I need to learn...
0:13:51 > 0:13:55- ..how to tell people - what this programme is about.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01- La linea?
0:14:01 > 0:14:03- Longitud, norte sur.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- Norte sur, cinco grado.
0:14:10 > 0:14:14- On with the lesson - and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.
0:14:15 > 0:14:17- It's a wonderful language.
0:14:19 > 0:14:21- This is a copy - of Christopher Columbus' house.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- He lived in Valladolid for a while - and died here when he was 55.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- We all know - that he discovered America...
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- ..but he wasn't aiming for there.
0:14:32 > 0:14:36- After discovering the New World, - things went awry for him.
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- He was arrested and sent home for - not controlling the colony properly.
0:14:41 > 0:14:45- On release, he convinced the King - of Spain to fund another journey...
0:14:45 > 0:14:48- ..but he was shipwrecked in Jamaica.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- The story of Christopher Columbus...
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- ..or Cristobal Colon, to give him - his proper name, is rather sad.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- He had the chance to travel - around the world...
0:14:59 > 0:15:02- ..looking for a new way - to reach the Far East.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- He didn't do - what he should have done.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- But he did discover islands - in the Caribbean, like Cuba.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- And eventually, - he discovered America.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14- But not this part of America.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16- He discovered South America.
0:15:26 > 0:15:28- Columbus died a poor man...
0:15:28 > 0:15:32- ..without knowing he'd made - a truly important discovery.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- Until the very end, - he believed he'd been to Asia.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- It's time to move on and I want - to reach Avila before dark.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- # SOUSA: MARCH (KNOWN AS - 'HERE WE GO' TO SOCCER FANS) #
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- It's the eve - of another big festival.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- People are here to place flowers - on the statue of Santa Teresa.
0:16:37 > 0:16:39- That's her!
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- The celebration begins - in earnest tomorrow...
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- ..and Spaniards - enjoy their celebrations.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- I'm not sure they should be - playing 'Here We Go' though!
0:16:55 > 0:17:00- These people are making a picture - of Santa Teresa with carnations.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- It'll be ready - before the end of the night.
0:17:10 > 0:17:12- This is one - of the region's traditional dances.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- Perfect for - the Llangollen Eisteddfod!
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- Unfortunately, I didn't manage - to speak to anyone about it.
0:17:33 > 0:17:35- It's very early - the following morning.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39- Everyone is going to the service - to praise Santa Teresa.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- It's an opportunity for me - to see the town before it gets busy.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54- Legend has it that one - of Hercules' sons established Avila.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- The common view is that an Iberian - tribe were the first settlers.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- Then the Celts arrived, - followed by the Romans.
0:18:03 > 0:18:08- Then it see-sawed between Christians - and Muslims for 300 years.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- Today, it's hard to imagine Spain - as a Muslim country.
0:18:12 > 0:18:17- We tend to think of it as - the country to the south of France.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- But Spain is also - to the north of Africa.
0:18:21 > 0:18:26- Spain was the country closest - to the New World of the Americas.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29- There's no wonder so many wars - were fought here.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33- Everyone was trying to get - their hands on Spain.
0:18:33 > 0:18:35- It was a country worth ruling.
0:18:35 > 0:18:40- No wonder these walls are so high. - Some are 20 metres high.
0:18:41 > 0:18:45- If you want walls from - the Middle Ages, these are the boys!
0:18:45 > 0:18:48- They have changed very little - since then...
0:18:49 > 0:18:52- ..and they are some - of the best examples in the world.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54- But Avila needs thick walls.
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- In spite of the sunshine, it's very - cold here with a very keen wind.
0:19:08 > 0:19:13- Local businesses haven't missed the - chance to cash in on Santa Teresa.
0:19:13 > 0:19:16- Her name is on everything.
0:19:24 > 0:19:26- Hola! Gracias.
0:19:28 > 0:19:33- Avila is famous because - this is where Santa Teresa was born.
0:19:33 > 0:19:37- There are pictures and statues - of her everywhere.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40- The most special link - is this cake - 'yemas'.
0:19:40 > 0:19:44- It is said that Santa Teresa - invented the recipe.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47- Let's have a taste.
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- This is nice.
0:19:52 > 0:19:54- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:20:04 > 0:20:07- It appears that she didn't - make these at all.
0:20:07 > 0:20:09- Oh, well, they're very nice.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- # ALLEGRI: MISERERE #
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- Who exactly was Santa Teresa?
0:20:23 > 0:20:25- It's a long story.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29- She was a nun who suffered - from illness and depression.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33- She had powerful visions - caused by all her medication.
0:20:33 > 0:20:38- When she recovered, she established - numerous Carmelite convents.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- She died in 1582.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44- In 1617, - she was nominated as a saint.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47- There's a museum dedicated - to her life and her work...
0:20:48 > 0:20:49- ..and a souvenir shop.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- You can see the sole of her shoe...
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- ..and her finger is exhibited - in this glass case.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04- The procession is about to begin - and there's no room to move.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10- TRUMPET FANFARE
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- There are thousands here, - some from very far afield.
0:21:39 > 0:21:44- Since I'm not a religious person, - it was all beyond me, I must admit.
0:21:49 > 0:21:53- This is a very emotional crowd. - They're crying and laughing.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- I feel out of place.
0:22:00 > 0:22:03- Santa Teresa - was a sweet little lady.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06- She liked singing and music.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10- She also liked to worship - in quiet, simple places.
0:22:11 > 0:22:16- I don't know what she'd make - of the fuss that's made of her now.
0:22:30 > 0:22:35- To end a remarkable day and - a wonderful journey, a huge party.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- Spaniards know how to hold a fiesta.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46- BANG
0:22:46 > 0:22:49- What a finale to a fantastic fiesta!
0:22:49 > 0:22:52- I'm half way through Spain - and I love it here.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56- I'll have to come back here one day!
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- Next week, I'll be moving on - to southern Spain...
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- ..where I hear the other side - of the bull-fighting story...
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- ..and I'll receive - a flamenco lesson.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13- Yes, me, flamenco dancing. Arriba!
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan