0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- FLAMENCO MUSIC
0:00:10 > 0:00:13- I'm still in Spain - and I've reached Andalucia...
0:00:13 > 0:00:16- ..home of bullfighting, - tapas and flamenco!
0:00:16 > 0:00:18- 888
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- I've reached Cordoba, an historic - and truly beautiful city...
0:00:48 > 0:00:52- ..with a network of buildings - and streets from the Middle Ages.
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- I've travelled from Wales, - through Cornwall...
0:01:02 > 0:01:04- ..and the islands of Brittany.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06- Last week, - I'd reached northern Spain.
0:01:06 > 0:01:09- Cordoba is in the Andalucia region - of southern Spain.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- It's the home of flamenco dancing - and the birthplace of the guitar.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17- This is Juderia, - Cordoba's Jewish region.
0:01:17 > 0:01:22- A labyrinth of narrow streets - and peaceful green patios...
0:01:22 > 0:01:25- ..perfect for sheltering - from the sun.
0:01:26 > 0:01:30- There can't have been - any fat people living here!
0:01:35 > 0:01:37- The smallest square in the world?
0:01:46 > 0:01:50- Cordoba is a mecca for craft lovers.
0:01:51 > 0:01:54- There are various shops - and workshops...
0:01:54 > 0:01:58- ..specialising in silver - and leather goods.
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- Cordoban leather has been - world-famous for centuries.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04- It's the best leather available.
0:02:04 > 0:02:10- If you buy some leather from here, - make sure the name is clear to see.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13- Otherwise, - it'll be a cheap imitation.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17- Unfortunately, - I wanted to buy this belt.
0:02:17 > 0:02:19- But it's too small!
0:02:20 > 0:02:24- Oh, well, less tapas for me!
0:02:27 > 0:02:29- The Romans established Cordoba.
0:02:29 > 0:02:33- Because of its location - on the River Guadalquivir...
0:02:33 > 0:02:37- ..it was the perfect place - to export olive oil, wine and wheat.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- Centuries later, - the Muslims arrived.
0:02:41 > 0:02:45- That heralded the start - of the city's greatest period.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- Libraries, patios - and mosques were built.
0:02:48 > 0:02:53- The strange thing about this mosque - is that it's not a mosque now.
0:02:53 > 0:02:56- The Muslims were forced out...
0:02:56 > 0:03:01- ..and in the 16thC, the Christians - built this cathedral church...
0:03:01 > 0:03:03- ..right inside the mosque.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- They could have demolished the - mosque and then built the cathedral.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12- I'd like to think - that it was a sign of respect...
0:03:12 > 0:03:16- ..for what the Muslims had achieved - almost 1,000 years earlier.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- Mezquita's mosque is one of the best - examples of Islamic architecture...
0:03:26 > 0:03:27- ..in the world.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- Right in the centre - of the clever simplicity...
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- ..stands the cathedral church - with its Christian wealth.
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- A stunning building that demands - silence no matter who you worship.
0:03:58 > 0:04:03- The Muslim influence on Spain - extends further than just mosques.
0:04:03 > 0:04:08- Spanish consists of thousands of - words that originate from Arabic.
0:04:08 > 0:04:13- 'Naranja' for orange, 'arroz' - for rice and 'azucar' for sugar.
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- The greatest thing Spain - is known for...
0:04:16 > 0:04:18- ..is heavily associated - with Muslim period.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21- Yes - flamenco!
0:04:25 > 0:04:29- This is Maria and she's going - to give me a flamenco lesson.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31- I'm 'poco' nervous.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- Having met the singer - and the guitarist...
0:04:55 > 0:04:58- ..nice men - and truly talented musicians...
0:04:58 > 0:05:02- ..I wondered if my Welsh feet - were too big for Spanish shoes.
0:05:03 > 0:05:06- But no, they fitted like a glove.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09- They put me in the mood instantly.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14- Dozens of little nails in the sole - make the noise.
0:05:14 > 0:05:16- The lesson's about to start.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22- I'm glad I wasn't wearing a skirt.
0:05:22 > 0:05:24- I wouldn't be able to flash my legs!
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- I was scared - poking my tongue out - and giggling nervously!
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- I had no idea what I was doing.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38- But soon, it all fell into place.
0:05:44 > 0:05:49- It's difficult to watch the feet - and the arms at the same time.
0:05:55 > 0:05:56- And the finale...
0:05:58 > 0:05:59- ..ole!
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- While I was changing my shoes and - having a drink I truly deserved...
0:06:07 > 0:06:09- ..the real show began.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- Why couldn't I dance with him?
0:06:23 > 0:06:25- They were all excellent....
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- ..but the star of the show - was my teacher - Maria!
0:06:45 > 0:06:47- That's flamenco at its best.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- The ability to convey - deep emotion...
0:06:51 > 0:06:54- ..with style, - sexuality and personality.
0:07:02 > 0:07:03- APPLAUSE
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- ALARM CLOCK
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- Look, the flamenco - didn't start 'til 10.30pm.
0:07:23 > 0:07:25- I didn't get to bed till 2.30am.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29- This is my siesta! - Go on, I'll see you later.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- But I didn't get much sleep - since the scamps had woken me up!
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- Bullfighting is another tradition - we associate with Spain.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46- The only thing that's more popular - than bullfighting is football.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59- The Museo Taurino is full - of bullfighting memorabilia.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- Historical posters and some of the - costumes worn by famous matadors.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- One room is dedicated - to one particular matador.
0:08:08 > 0:08:10- This is Manolete.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- A legendary bullfighter - until his death in 1947...
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- ..when he was killed - by a bull called Islero.
0:08:18 > 0:08:20- There was no escape for Islero.
0:08:21 > 0:08:23- He was killed instantly...
0:08:23 > 0:08:26- ..and his hide and ears - hang here in the museum.
0:08:36 > 0:08:40- The rest of the world, - and some people living in Spain...
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- ..regard bullfighting - as a cruel sport.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- It's not a game for Spaniards.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- If you wanted to read - about bullfighting contests...
0:08:49 > 0:08:54- ..in local papers, you won't find it - in the back with the other sport.
0:08:54 > 0:08:57- It's on the front, next to the arts!
0:08:57 > 0:08:59- Bullfighting is an art here!
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- I don't think - I can comment on bullfighting...
0:09:06 > 0:09:08- ..until I've seen what happens.
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- There's a bullfighting festival - in Jaen all weekend.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- This is the view for miles - in this part of Spain.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42- Hills upon hills - of neatly-kept olive trees.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46- 10% of the world's olive oil - is produced in Jaen.
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- I've always wanted to attend - a real fiesta, and here I am!
0:09:56 > 0:09:59- It's like Menai Bridge Fair - with frills.
0:10:01 > 0:10:06- Everyone laughing, eating and - drinking and dressing up smartly.
0:10:06 > 0:10:09- Girls in their - bata de cola dresses...
0:10:10 > 0:10:12- ..which make tight jeans - look so cheap!
0:10:13 > 0:10:16- That's what I call paella!
0:10:19 > 0:10:22- The bulls are at the other end - of town...
0:10:22 > 0:10:26- ..and that's where - I'm meeting Xavier - and I'm late!
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:10:33 > 0:10:37- I've got to go because it's about - to begin so I'll see you inside.
0:10:45 > 0:10:45- 888
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- 888
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- I'm in Jaen for the last - bullfighting weekend of the season.
0:11:00 > 0:11:03- Spain's most famous matadors - are here.
0:11:03 > 0:11:07- They're more famous - than footballers around here.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- The whole event is very theatrical.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- Colour and costume - are integral parts of the show.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- It's like a rugby match - at the Millennium Stadium.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21- Tickets are like gold dust.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- Xavier used to watch - bullfighting contests regularly...
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- ..but he seldom goes now.
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- He's one of a number of Spaniards - who've turned their backs on it.
0:11:31 > 0:11:36- He tells me that the matador - gets the bull's ears and tail...
0:11:36 > 0:11:40- ..to keep on his mantelpiece - if he puts on a good show.
0:11:40 > 0:11:44- He only gets one ear - if it's only a fair show.
0:11:44 > 0:11:46- If it's a poor show...
0:11:46 > 0:11:48- ..they cut his ear off!
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- Only joking!
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- But as you can see, - I didn't understand.
0:11:56 > 0:12:00- The bull is released - and the peons try to tire it.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05- This is theatrical and colourful - and good entertainment.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- Then the picadors appear - on horseback...
0:12:11 > 0:12:15- ..and lance the bull's neck muscles - with their spears.
0:12:15 > 0:12:20- This weakens the bull - and it doesn't look very fair to me.
0:12:20 > 0:12:25- If the picador wounds the bull - badly, the crowd will protest.
0:12:32 > 0:12:34- Here he is - El Cordobes.
0:12:34 > 0:12:38- In the bullfighting world, - he is David Beckham.
0:12:41 > 0:12:46- The crowd appreciate his talent but - when he starts to clown around...
0:12:46 > 0:12:50- ..listen to the old man - sitting next to me shouting "No!"
0:12:59 > 0:13:03- He's supposed to impale the bull - through its heart for a swift death.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08- APPLAUSE
0:13:11 > 0:13:14- He fails, but refuses any help...
0:13:14 > 0:13:17- ..to impale it cleanly - a second time.
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- He would rather see the bull - die a slow death.
0:13:20 > 0:13:23- He loses points - for impaling a second time.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- But the crowd aren't too bothered.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30- By waving their handkerchiefs...
0:13:30 > 0:13:34- ..they try to persuade the judges - to give him full marks.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- This is the man who was angry - with the matador.
0:13:40 > 0:13:43- He's a lone voice in the wilderness.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46- El Cordobes looks happy enough.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- I'm still not sure what to think.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- It's cruel - and the bull stands no chance...
0:14:01 > 0:14:05- ..but there must be something - I haven't understood.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07- I'm off to learn more in Ronda...
0:14:07 > 0:14:10- ..birthplace of bullfighting...
0:14:10 > 0:14:15- ..and the next stop along the line, - an hour from Marbella.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- The El Tajo river gorge - is down there...
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- ..and this is Puente Nuevo, - the New Bridge.
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- It's not that new - - it was built in 1793!
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- According to legend, - the architect Martin de Aldehuela...
0:14:53 > 0:14:55- ..was very pleased with his bridge.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- He thought he could never - achieve anything like it again...
0:15:00 > 0:15:02- ..so he jumped off the bridge.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- That doesn't make sense to me.
0:15:04 > 0:15:08- Anyway, it's not true. - He died in Malaga in 1802.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- The town is split in two - by the gorge.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- La Ciudad, the old town - on one side of the bridge...
0:15:16 > 0:15:19- ..and this is the new part - on the other side.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- Bullfighting - may have started here...
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- ..but times have changed.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- Bullfighting contests - are seldom held here now.
0:15:28 > 0:15:30- Today, it's more of a museum.
0:15:31 > 0:15:33- But interest in the sport remains.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- This is Ronda's school - for young matadors.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- All the boys want to grow up - to become famous matadors.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44- The teacher is a former matador.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- He starts them young, - at around seven or eight years old.
0:15:48 > 0:15:50- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- The emphasis is on the elegance - of the movements.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59- They need to be trained mentally - as well as physically.
0:16:00 > 0:16:01- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:16:07 > 0:16:11- One or two have exhibited - true talent, like Jonathan here.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- He's already killed - some young bulls.
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- His technique is very promising.
0:16:22 > 0:16:24- The mind is always more important.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- You must be able to understand - the nature of the bull.
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- It's a psychological contest - between matador and bull.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- You must be able to conquer - the bull with your will.
0:16:38 > 0:16:43- They have pictures of matadors, - not footballers, on their walls.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- Jonathan promised to send me - his picture when he becomes famous.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:16:58 > 0:17:02- Centuries ago, only the nobility - fought bulls, on horseback.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- In 1698, a man from Ronda, - Francisco Romero...
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- ..decided to challenge a bull - without a horse...
0:17:10 > 0:17:12- ..using only a cloak.
0:17:12 > 0:17:15- His son, Juan, - came up with the idea...
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- ..of having people - helping the matador in the ring.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22- His son, Pedro, - made the sport popular...
0:17:22 > 0:17:25- ..and developed the rules - and the style we know today.
0:17:25 > 0:17:28- This restaurant is named after him.
0:17:28 > 0:17:30- I fancy some tapas.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40- Pedro killed around 5,500 bulls...
0:17:40 > 0:17:45- ..before opening a bullfighting - college when he was 77 years old.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47- SHE ORDERS IN SPANISH
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- I was expecting - small bowls of tapas!
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- Really!
0:18:13 > 0:18:15- Well, there you are.
0:18:16 > 0:18:21- Jamon, a special salad from Ronda, - goat's cheese, little chorizos...
0:18:22 > 0:18:24- ..and a local cheese.
0:18:24 > 0:18:26- I'm going to start with that.
0:18:35 > 0:18:37- They know their cheese!
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- I was supposed to have tapas, - but this isn't tapas.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44- Tapas are small and cheap - - these are expensive!
0:18:44 > 0:18:47- This is posh tapas. Very nice!
0:18:48 > 0:18:49- Chorizo.
0:19:01 > 0:19:06- The food was exquisite, but what - did I think of bullfighting now?
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- There's more to it - than meets the eye.
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- It's impossible - for an outsider to understand.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- But I think the school in Ronda - explained more to me than anyone.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- I drove down the mountains - without hitting a motorbike...
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- ..and reached every Brit's - favourite Costa.
0:19:38 > 0:19:41- I've bombed at breakneck speed - right through Spain.
0:19:41 > 0:19:44- I've reached the bottom - Marbella.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- To be totally honest with you, - I'm not fond of places like this...
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- ..that attract thousands - of British holidaymakers.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- But they say Marbella is different.
0:19:56 > 0:19:58- Let's see what it has to offer.
0:19:59 > 0:20:00- In a moment!
0:20:09 > 0:20:12- It wasn't as bad as I first thought.
0:20:12 > 0:20:15- A lot better, actually.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20- There are many English people, but - there are many Spaniards here, too.
0:20:20 > 0:20:23- It's a lot less tacky - than Torremolinos.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26- I didn't see - one fish and chip shop...
0:20:26 > 0:20:28- ..and there are some - posh places here.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- So posh, I'm going there on a ship. - Well, a boat!
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- I've almost reached Puerto Banus.
0:20:40 > 0:20:45- This is where the rich, and those - who want to show you they're rich...
0:20:45 > 0:20:47- ..come out to play.
0:20:47 > 0:20:52- It's packed with boats worth - millions and large glitzy shops.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- The people around here - have a motto - "A Way Of Life".
0:20:55 > 0:20:58- An expensive way of life - if you ask me!
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- It costs five times more - to drop anchor in Puerto Banus...
0:21:02 > 0:21:03- ..than it does in Marbella.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- This is the grandest marina - along the Costa del Sol.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18- It's filled with ships and boats...
0:21:19 > 0:21:22- ..worth more than - all the farms in Gwynedd!
0:21:22 > 0:21:26- They all look so clean, I doubt - any of them have been out to sea.
0:21:26 > 0:21:30- It's the millionaires' playground...
0:21:30 > 0:21:33- ..and a tourist trap for the nosey. - Like me!
0:21:33 > 0:21:36- But each to his own.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40- Some people like expensive shops - and labels...
0:21:40 > 0:21:42- ..but I don't.
0:21:44 > 0:21:49- I was happier in the marketplace but - even that appeared false, somehow.
0:21:49 > 0:21:53- Maybe I'm not as easily pleased - as I used to be.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19- The sunset was nice.
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- It was an opportunity for me to - remember the places I'd enjoyed.
0:22:32 > 0:22:34- I feel rather smug.
0:22:36 > 0:22:40- I've seen the real Spain. I've - travelled from one end to the other.
0:22:41 > 0:22:44- I've seen new things - and learnt new things.
0:22:44 > 0:22:47- Things I never thought - I'd experience.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- Last year, when I went around - the world that way...
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- ..I fell in love with Russia - like you'd never believe.
0:22:54 > 0:22:56- Spain is even better.
0:22:56 > 0:22:58- Espania, me gusta mucho!
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- Mucho, mucho, mucho!
0:23:19 > 0:23:21- Next week, I'll be in Morocco.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25- I'll be wandering around - the markets of Fez and Tangier...
0:23:25 > 0:23:28- ..eating my supper - with a nomadic family....
0:23:29 > 0:23:31- ..and having some fun with a camel.
0:23:34 > 0:23:36- S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan