0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:01- 888- - 888
0:00:01 > 0:00:03- Welcome to Morocco.
0:00:03 > 0:00:05- This one's coming home with me!
0:00:06 > 0:00:08- 888
0:00:13 > 0:00:15- 888
0:00:20 > 0:00:22- 888
0:00:29 > 0:00:31- I've reached Gibraltar.
0:00:31 > 0:00:36- I've travelled through Spain and - reached somewhere that's so British.
0:00:37 > 0:00:41- In the last series, things changed - as I travelled further from Wales.
0:00:42 > 0:00:47- I've just left the exotic world of - flamenco dancing and bullfighting...
0:00:47 > 0:00:51- ..only to reach an English pub - which serves a Sunday roast.
0:00:51 > 0:00:57- A plate of Yorkshire pudding and - gravy was a nice change from tapas!
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- There are some differences, though.
0:01:02 > 0:01:05- You don't see anything like this - in Wales.
0:01:05 > 0:01:09- And I'm not in a zoo. - These are wild monkeys.
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- They say that when the - Barbary Macacas leave Gibraltar...
0:01:14 > 0:01:16- ..the British will also leave.
0:01:17 > 0:01:19- Spain wants the Rock back...
0:01:20 > 0:01:23- ..but the British - have been here for over 300 years.
0:01:23 > 0:01:25- The locals want to remain British.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- I was shocked to find - such a resilient attitude here.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- Far, far across the waves... - is Morocco!
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- Those are the Atlas Mountains - and I'll be heading...
0:01:38 > 0:01:40- ..for North Africa soon.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- I lived in Nigeria - for two years in the '80s.
0:01:44 > 0:01:46- When I left, I had two choices.
0:01:46 > 0:01:50- One was to leave in a Land Rover, - across the Sahara through Morocco.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- The second was to go - to the Bahamas as a nanny.
0:01:54 > 0:01:56- I chose the Bahamas - and I still regret it.
0:01:56 > 0:02:00- Now, almost 20 years later, - I'm going to North Africa.
0:02:01 > 0:02:06- I've followed the longitude line - through the islands of Brittany...
0:02:07 > 0:02:10- ..and right through - the heart of Spain.
0:02:10 > 0:02:12- I'm heading for Fez in Morocco.
0:02:12 > 0:02:15- The ferry from Gibraltar - will take me to Tangiers.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- I've strayed slightly - from the longitude line...
0:02:30 > 0:02:32- ..but Tangiers - is well worth a visit.
0:02:32 > 0:02:34- It's a lively place...
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- ..which is quickly losing its bad - reputation for hassling tourists.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- It's difficult to describe...
0:02:43 > 0:02:47- ..the feeling of being a female - travelling alone in Morocco...
0:02:47 > 0:02:52- ..because I'm being followed - by men with cameras all the time!
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- A lot of tourists visit Tangiers - and people here told me...
0:02:56 > 0:02:58- ..I could wear what I wanted.
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- But I'd rather wear - a long-sleeved shirt and trousers...
0:03:02 > 0:03:04- ..as a sign of respect.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- Artists and authors - flocked to these cafes years ago.
0:03:09 > 0:03:11- Local men drink coffee there now.
0:03:11 > 0:03:13- But not today. Today is Ramadan.
0:03:14 > 0:03:19- Ramadan is a month when followers - of Islam starve themselves...
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- ..from dawn until dusk.
0:03:21 > 0:03:24- Nothing passes their lips - - not even water.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- It's their way of purifying - the spirit, body and soul.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- It's also a show of sympathy - to poor people who have no food.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- When the sunset comes at 5.30pm, - they gorge themselves...
0:03:37 > 0:03:39- ..and have a great time.
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- The traffic increases - at the end of the afternoon.
0:03:48 > 0:03:51- Everyone wants to go home - for supper.
0:03:53 > 0:03:55- Mustafa is taking me to Fez.
0:03:55 > 0:03:59- He says we should reach in time - to hear the call to prayer.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01- Muslims pray five times a day.
0:04:02 > 0:04:05- The imam in every mosque - invites everyone to pray...
0:04:06 > 0:04:07- ..over a loud speaker.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- From the hill above the city, - the effect is incredible.
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- It sounds like racing cars - in a Grand Prix.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21- SOUND OF DISTANT PRAYERS
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- They say that Fez - is the Athens of Africa.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- It's an ancient city - - Morocco's oldest imperial city...
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- ..and it's been - a cultural and religious centre...
0:04:57 > 0:04:59- ..for over 1,000 years.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- Today, Fez is split - into three parts.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- New Fez - which hasn't - been new for 800 years...
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- ..the Ville Nouvelle which was built - at the end of the last century...
0:05:09 > 0:05:12- ..and the original part - - the old medina, Fez el Bali...
0:05:12 > 0:05:14- ..a World Heritage Site...
0:05:14 > 0:05:18- ..and one of the largest - medieval cities in the world.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- Assalamu alaikum.
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- There are 9,400 narrow streets - and souks in the medina.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- They branch out - into every direction.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32- It's easy to get lost here...
0:05:32 > 0:05:37- ..but locals here are used - to seeing people getting lost...
0:05:37 > 0:05:41- ..and are happy to help out - - for a price, sometimes!
0:05:42 > 0:05:46- The colours and smells - are wonderful.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- Everything is laid out - to tempt you to spend your dirhams.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- In this medina of Fez...
0:05:55 > 0:06:00- ..neither the buildings - nor the people's way of life...
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- ..have changed for years.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- People still use donkeys - to carry things around.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- People work with wood and metal - in little holes-in-the-wall.
0:06:11 > 0:06:16- Apart from the odd mobile phone, - they still sell the same goods.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18- It's great here!
0:06:22 > 0:06:24- This donkey - is carrying animal skins.
0:06:25 > 0:06:28- It must be on its way to the - tannery, which is where I'm going.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- If I lose the donkey, - I can always follow my nose.
0:06:41 > 0:06:45- The leather from Fez - is some of the finest in the world.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48- These men dye the skin - in the old traditional way.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51- Yes, with their feet!
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- For some strange reason, - I like this place.
0:06:56 > 0:07:00- It's been here - for more than eight centuries...
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- ..and they've used the same process - throughout that time.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- I was expecting a strong smell...
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- ..but they do use pigeon poo, - cow's pee and fish oils here!
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- I must admit, the smell - gets stronger as the day goes on...
0:07:16 > 0:07:18- ..but to be honest, - it's not that bad.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21- I've smelt worse things at home!
0:07:21 > 0:07:23- On the farm, I mean, - not in the house!
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- Water is essential - in such a dry country.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33- Centuries ago, clever water systems - were built here.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- There are over sixty - public fountains in the medina...
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- ..some of which are beautiful.
0:07:40 > 0:07:45- There are 350 mosques, but you - can't enter unless you're a Muslim.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52- The medina is far more - than just a marketplace.
0:07:52 > 0:07:56- If you want to know - what goes on behind closed doors...
0:07:56 > 0:07:58- ..you need a guide.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- Ahmed is taking me - to a very special place.
0:08:15 > 0:08:19- Behind this door, - in a quiet corner of the medina...
0:08:19 > 0:08:21- ..is a Koran school.
0:08:21 > 0:08:23- I've been invited to call in.
0:08:27 > 0:08:28- Assalamu alaikum.
0:08:34 > 0:08:35- Assalamu alaikum.
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- The lesson today is counting to ten.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- THEY COUNT TO TEN IN ARABIC
0:08:52 > 0:08:54- BETHAN COUNTS TO TEN IN ARABIC
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- I could have stayed with them - all day.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11- Fez is renowned - for being an educational centre.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- Morocco's most religious, cultural - and artistic people live here.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- No wonder since they start - teaching them very young.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36- You can't leave Morocco without - visiting at least one carpet shop.
0:09:37 > 0:09:39- Ahmed has brought me - to one of the finest...
0:09:40 > 0:09:42- ..in a large, stunning building.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46- The managers of these places - are always pleasant...
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- ..and they can speak - dozens of languages.
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- There are dozens of rooms - and thousands of carpets.
0:09:53 > 0:09:57- You're given a lecture - on history and tradition first...
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- ..and then you're shown - a number of different carpets.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05- The manager takes note - of every single response you make.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- I must look like - a very practical woman.
0:10:10 > 0:10:14- This carpet has one side for the - summer and another for the winter.
0:10:22 > 0:10:26- That's the one I fancy, - the big red one.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- He has noted my interest.
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- Here's a cup of sweet mint tea - to try and win me over.
0:10:37 > 0:10:42- He gives me a lecture on the history - of the carpet and its patterns.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- I only want to know one thing. - How much does it cost?
0:10:47 > 0:10:49- THEY SPEAK FRENCH
0:10:52 > 0:10:53- Combien?
0:10:55 > 0:10:57- Douze mille dirhams.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59- Douze mille?
0:10:59 > 0:11:02- I can't do my sums! - I don't know how much it costs.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- 750.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- Too much! - I mustn't get my fingers burnt!
0:11:17 > 0:11:21- I could have stayed - in the medina of Fez for a week...
0:11:22 > 0:11:24- ..and spent a fortune on carpets.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27- I regret not buying that carpet now.
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- It's time to move on - and Mustafa is waiting for me.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- Onwards I go, to see more - of this remarkable country.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- You'd never tell I was still - in Morocco, but I am.
0:12:14 > 0:12:18- We've driven up the Atlas Mountains - on the way to Midelt.
0:12:18 > 0:12:21- We've stopped - in the little village of Ifrane.
0:12:22 > 0:12:27- It was built by the French in the - '20s and '30s of the last century...
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- ..as a holiday village - - it's like being in Switzerland!
0:12:31 > 0:12:36- Today, rich Moroccans come here - for their holidays, and to ski!
0:12:36 > 0:12:40- Unfortunately, snow isn't forecast - until next Friday.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- So, on I go to Midelt.
0:12:47 > 0:12:51- I enjoyed every minute - of the hustle and bustle in Fez...
0:12:52 > 0:12:56- ..but the tranquillity - in this green valley is wonderful.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58- Morocco is full of variety.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- There's more to come in Part Two!
0:13:31 > 0:13:31- 888
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- 888- - 888
0:13:43 > 0:13:46- Midelt is right in the centre - of Morocco...
0:13:47 > 0:13:49- ..nestling in the Atlas Mountains.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53- It's a quiet town - with little to do here.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- It's somewhere to fill the petrol - tank on the way north or south.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- It's a place for tourists on buses - to rest a while...
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- ..and stock up on food - for the journey ahead.
0:14:07 > 0:14:12- There is one place worth visiting - - Kasbah Myriem...
0:14:12 > 0:14:14- ..a convent and a workhouse.
0:14:15 > 0:14:17- Franciscan nuns provide shelter...
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- ..for Berber women - to make carpets and embroidery.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28- The nuns buy the wool - and the women make the carpets...
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- ..which are sold to tourists - like me.
0:14:35 > 0:14:39- This is a way of making money - to buy food for the family...
0:14:39 > 0:14:42- ..and themselves, - if they are widows or spinsters.
0:14:51 > 0:14:53- They don't work to a pattern.
0:14:53 > 0:14:57- Each carpet is an original creation - based on the person's imagination.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- Here are the young girls arriving.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- They aren't eager - to learn how to make carpets.
0:15:06 > 0:15:08- They prefer embroidery.
0:15:08 > 0:15:14- The old skill of making carpets - will one day die out...
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- ..but the youngsters - prefer embroidery at the moment.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Some refuse to marry because - work gives them independence.
0:15:22 > 0:15:28- As one pointed out, why marry men - who only use them as servants?
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- With a full tank of petrol, - and plenty of water bottles...
0:15:39 > 0:15:42- ..we were ready to head - for the desert.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52- We will climb up - the highest Atlas Mountains...
0:15:52 > 0:15:57- ..and then descend to Erfoud, - which will lead us to the Sahara.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- These people were the last people - to be controlled by the French.
0:16:06 > 0:16:08- They were still rebelling in 1932.
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- Erfoud was then built - to control this unruly bunch!
0:16:19 > 0:16:24- This is Rissani, where the souks - are out in the open air.
0:16:24 > 0:16:28- I thought the whole point - of having souks in a medina...
0:16:29 > 0:16:31- ..was to avoid the hot sunshine.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33- But spices are fine in the sun - - I think.
0:16:34 > 0:16:37- There are forty different spices - in this one.
0:16:37 > 0:16:39- And it's good for digestion!
0:16:42 > 0:16:43- Chocoran!
0:16:49 > 0:16:54- All I need is some fruit to quench - my thirst on the way to the desert.
0:16:55 > 0:16:57- Dix - combien?
0:17:01 > 0:17:03- Combien sont les bananes?
0:17:51 > 0:17:55- I'm right on the edge - of the Sahara with a nomadic family.
0:17:56 > 0:18:01- This isn't something for tourists, - so I feel very privileged.
0:18:01 > 0:18:05- These people move - from place to place all the time.
0:18:05 > 0:18:09- Their only means of subsistence - is a herd of twenty-five goats.
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- It's a hard life - and they're poor - but they've invited me for supper.
0:18:14 > 0:18:16- This is the kitchen.
0:18:20 > 0:18:22- This is the lounge and the bedroom.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27- I offered to help and had - a linguistic shock in the process.
0:18:31 > 0:18:33- Crwn!
0:18:33 > 0:18:35- Crwn? Crwn!
0:18:36 > 0:18:38- Crwn?!
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- Crwn!
0:18:45 > 0:18:46- Crwn! Wow!
0:18:48 > 0:18:50- It's the same word in Welsh.
0:18:52 > 0:18:55- While the father lights a fire - to boil water for a cuppa...
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- ..the mother tries to make me look - like a local woman.
0:18:59 > 0:19:00- Berber.
0:19:00 > 0:19:00- Berber.- - Berber?
0:19:00 > 0:19:02- Berber?
0:19:11 > 0:19:13- How do I look?
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- A good way of getting - to know each other...
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- ..is teaching each other - your own language.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31- Ah, tomato!
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- Mateisha.
0:19:34 > 0:19:36- In Welsh, 'Nionyn'.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38- 'Tatws'.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42- 'Pupur'.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- 'Tomato'.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- Mateisha!
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- Morticia Addams Family!
0:19:52 > 0:19:54- Mateisha!
0:19:55 > 0:19:56- Batat.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15- I never travel anywhere without - photos of my home and family.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- The children loved the photo - of my house in the snow.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- Meg, my niece, is the same age - as Mustafa, the youngest.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33- The sunset, the food - and the welcome was magnificent.
0:20:33 > 0:20:38- The night turned into - a very special experience.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42- THE CHILDREN SING
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- The most memorable night - of the journey so far.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- Fewer people can live - a nomadic life these days...
0:20:56 > 0:21:00- ..and this way of life - may soon disappear.
0:21:00 > 0:21:05- When these children raise - their own children in town flats...
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- ..they'll miss these nights - beneath the stars.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- To catch the sun - rising above the dunes...
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- ..we must set off in moonlight.
0:21:57 > 0:21:59- I don't have to tell you...
0:21:59 > 0:22:04- ..how exhilarating crossing - the sand dunes during sunrise was.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06- Just look at these images.
0:22:30 > 0:22:35- Pity you can't hear the chat-up - lines of the man on the other camel!
0:22:35 > 0:22:37- I almost fell off my own camel!
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- I'm in the Sahara.
0:22:45 > 0:22:48- Some of you may think - I'm on Harlech beach...
0:22:49 > 0:22:51- ..with a camel from Colwyn Bay Zoo!
0:22:51 > 0:22:53- Really, I'm here in the Sahara!
0:22:54 > 0:22:58- The journey down through Morocco - has been very memorable.
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- It's such a diverse country.
0:23:00 > 0:23:03- From a city like Fez, - which is totally bonkers...
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- ..to this wonderfully peaceful - desert - and I love it here.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12- The food here is the best - I've ever tasted...
0:23:12 > 0:23:14- ..and everyone wants to marry me.
0:23:15 > 0:23:17- And not just the camels!
0:23:29 > 0:23:32- Next week, Mali - the real Africa...
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- ..where I feel as if I've come home.
0:23:37 > 0:23:39- S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan