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0:00:21 > 0:00:24- I'm in West Africa, - and 20 years ago I lived here.
0:00:25 > 0:00:28- Well, in Nigeria, - which isn't on the line.
0:00:28 > 0:00:33- But both countries are very similar - and I feel as if I've come home.
0:00:38 > 0:00:43- By crossing over to the other side - of the Sahara, I've reached Mali.
0:00:43 > 0:00:46- If you've ever wondered - where Timbuktu is...
0:00:46 > 0:00:50- ..it's here, but unfortunately, - it's not on the line!
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- But it's a chance to see some - places that are just as interesting.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- As you'd expect, - Mali gets very little rain.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- The River Niger - keeps the country going.
0:01:17 > 0:01:20- It flows from one end - of the country to the other.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23- It allows the people - to grow crops...
0:01:23 > 0:01:28- ..and it's also a leisurely way - to travel from one place to another.
0:01:28 > 0:01:33- At the moment, we're in - the flattest part of the country.
0:01:33 > 0:01:37- When the wet season arrives, - the river overflows here...
0:01:37 > 0:01:41- ..creating useful lakes and streams - in its path.
0:01:43 > 0:01:49- Mali is the largest and - friendliest country in West Africa.
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- Its landscape is full of contrasts, - from the Sahara Desert...
0:01:54 > 0:01:57- ..down to the fertile savannah - around the River Niger.
0:02:00 > 0:02:02- This is Mopti, - right in the middle of Mali.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05- It's a crossroads - between north and south.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08- It's the perfect place - for a huge market.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13- Luckily, I'm used to these boats!
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- Mopti is the area's busiest town.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- It used to be - a quiet little fishing village...
0:02:29 > 0:02:33- ..scattered across - a number of small islands.
0:02:33 > 0:02:37- They then filled the waterways - with earth and stones...
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- ..to create the town as it is today.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42- Fishing is the main industry.
0:02:42 > 0:02:47- These are smoked and dried fish. - They are sold locally and exported.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51- Yes, they do smell, - but the market is a riot...
0:02:51 > 0:02:53- ..of different colours and aromas.
0:02:56 > 0:02:59- Everything comes through Mopti.
0:02:59 > 0:03:02- Hens, goats, - fruit, vegetables, fish...
0:03:02 > 0:03:06- ..pottery and all sorts of crafts - from nearby villages.
0:03:06 > 0:03:09- But this salt has travelled - a long distance.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12- They mined this in North Africa...
0:03:12 > 0:03:15- ..transported it to Timbuktu - on a camel...
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- ..and it arrived here by boat. - There are two kinds of boats.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22- The smaller ones - are called pirogue.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- I used to travel on them weekly...
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- ..when I lived in Nigeria.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- We used to call them dug-outs since - English is the language of Nigeria.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- The larger, colourful boats - are called pinasse.
0:03:35 > 0:03:37- They carry the heavier loads.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- They can transport - up to 150 tonnes at a time.
0:03:45 > 0:03:49- Mopti is a very cosmopolitan town.
0:03:49 > 0:03:54- All kinds of people live here - or just pass through.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- There weren't any house numbers - or street names in Nigeria...
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- ..but Mopti seems - much more organised.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- Most of the activity in Mopti - is centred around the harbour...
0:04:08 > 0:04:11- ..but there is also a new town - full of shops.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- They told me - there was a cybercafe here.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17- I haven't checked my e-mails - for ages.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24- Submit.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- I know I curse - modern technology now and again...
0:04:28 > 0:04:32- ..but there's technology - and there's technology.
0:04:32 > 0:04:34- I've been travelling for a while...
0:04:34 > 0:04:39- ..and e-mails allow you to contact - people you've met on the way...
0:04:39 > 0:04:42- ..and catch up - with scandals from home.
0:04:42 > 0:04:44- This is taking its time.
0:04:45 > 0:04:47- The keyboard's full of sand...
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- ..and the letters - are in a different place!
0:04:50 > 0:04:52- Yay!
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- I have 16 e-mails. - Geraint Lovgreen and Ifor ap Glyn.
0:04:57 > 0:04:59- "Enjoying your garden!"
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- "Good!" People have said "good" - about something.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05- I'm going to open - Catrin Beard's e-mail.
0:05:06 > 0:05:08- Sorry, Catrin! I hope it's clean!
0:05:08 > 0:05:10- # La, la, la! #
0:05:12 > 0:05:14- Come on!
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- Oh! "Enjoyed 'Hi Yw Fy Ffrind' - immensely.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- "It created a wonderful period - atmosphere. Congratulations."
0:05:30 > 0:05:32- "Hiya. - I'm in Mopti - it's like an oven!"
0:05:38 > 0:05:42- As the women of Mopti meet at - the riverside to do their washing...
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- ..it's time for me - to move on to Djenne.
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- I could have taken a boat but - decided to travel by car instead.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- I'm on my way to listen - to music in Bobo.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- I need to catch up - on some beauty sleep on the way.
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- This is a balafon - - a wide xylophone.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- It's widely used to play music here.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- Bobo means mute - - they are very quiet people.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- When they're not singing, of course!
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- They sing about love - and criticise evil customs.
0:06:20 > 0:06:23- The soles of their feet - must be tough!
0:06:53 > 0:06:54- We've reached Djenne.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- It used to be Mali's - most important town...
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- ..until the French developed Mopti.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- Djenne has changed very little - over the centuries...
0:07:04 > 0:07:08- ..a fact that attracts tourists - like me! Today is market day.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12- Every Monday, - the town's population trebles...
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- ..as people from near and far - flock here to shop.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- I really feel at home here now.
0:07:19 > 0:07:24- It's like stepping back to a market - in Bida, Nigeria, 20 years ago.
0:07:24 > 0:07:28- The calabashes, the noise - and the aromas are all the same.
0:07:28 > 0:07:33- The lorries are fully loaded - with people, hens and goats.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39- Yes, Djenne has been built - entirely of mud.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- The labourers who build - and maintain these buildings...
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- ..train for years before they're - classed as master craftsmen.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- Water and mud are mixed together - for three days...
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- ..shaped into bricks, dried in the - sun then the plastering begins.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- The art of plastering - dates back to the 15th century.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- The town was granted - World Heritage status in 1988...
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- ..to ensure these unique buildings - are preserved.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- They're very old and have done well - to last so long.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- In the middle of the busy market - is Djenne's piece de resistance.
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- The largest, most famous and most - dramatic mud building in the world.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- The mosque.
0:08:38 > 0:08:40- Unfortunately, we can't go in.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- Entry has been denied since - an Italian TV crew visited here.
0:08:45 > 0:08:49- They decided to film bikini-clad - women inside the mosque.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- That was the end of that. - Only Muslims are welcome here now.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- TV crews can be - a real pain sometimes!
0:09:14 > 0:09:17- Mali is renowned for its craftwork.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- Wood carvings, - necklaces and earrings.
0:09:20 > 0:09:26- I could easily spend a fortune here - but I don't have a fortune to spend!
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- Djenne is famous for its bogolans.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33- The best bogolans can be found - outside the market.
0:09:38 > 0:09:40- This is going to be tricky.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- Pama doesn't speak French, - but her son does.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- I'll ask him, he'll translate... - You'll see.
0:09:48 > 0:09:50- BETHAN SPEAKS FRENCH
0:09:50 > 0:09:52- PAMA'S SON TRANSLATES
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- PAMA REPLIES
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- These are blankets and pieces - of material made of pure cotton...
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- ..which is grown locally.
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- It's dyed and decorated - by women like Pama.
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- They use leaves to make yellow...
0:10:16 > 0:10:20- ..wood bark to make brown - and mud to make black.
0:10:20 > 0:10:24- Pama has created a small industry - by teaching other local women.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- I had to buy one or two as gifts.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- I kept them myself in the end!
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- The market has closed down - and everyone returns home.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- Some have travelled far - and it will be dark...
0:10:48 > 0:10:51- ..before they arrive home.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- The following morning, - Djenne is deserted and peaceful.
0:11:17 > 0:11:22- I can't stay to enjoy the peace - - it's time to move on.
0:11:22 > 0:11:26- There's so much more to see - in this incredible country.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48- I'm approaching - Dogon country now...
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- ..which is east of Mopti and Djenne.
0:11:50 > 0:11:54- They're good farmers who've - succeeded in growing onions...
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- ..by watering the land by hand.
0:11:57 > 0:12:02- I'm high up on the plateau and - the Dogon villages I'm heading to...
0:12:02 > 0:12:05- ..are way ahead in the distance.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- Miles away along sandy roads.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- I'm looking forward to my visit.
0:12:17 > 0:12:17- 888
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- 888- - 888
0:12:24 > 0:12:26- I'm halfway up this cliff...
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- ..part of - the Bandiagara Escarpment...
0:12:30 > 0:12:33- ..which stretches 250kms - this way and that way.
0:12:33 > 0:12:39- Above me is the fertile land with - fresh water where they grow onions.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44- Suddenly, there's a huge drop - on the side of this cliff.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- Ahead of me - is a desert that carries on...
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- ..all the way to Burkina Faso.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- Originally, the Dogon lived here, - in the rock face.
0:12:53 > 0:12:55- It was safer here.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- It looks like a difficult place - to live...
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- ..but these cliffs were home - to the Dogon for centuries.
0:13:05 > 0:13:10- Other tribes would regularly attack - the villages and steal slaves.
0:13:10 > 0:13:15- The people of Ende - now live on flat land...
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- ..but one person - still lives in the rock face.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21- I'm being taken up to meet him now.
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- It wasn't an easy journey - in the sweltering heat.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30- This is the Hogon - - the chief priest...
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- ..the most important man - in the village.
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- This is where he lives.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- According to the Dogon religion...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..he has the power to grant wishes - and sort out any disputes.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45- He was a sweet and gentle man - who gave us a warm welcome.
0:13:53 > 0:13:55- We had an interesting conversation.
0:13:56 > 0:13:59- He asked me if I thought - there were any differences...
0:13:59 > 0:14:02- ..between his country and Wales.
0:14:14 > 0:14:16- The weather, for one thing...
0:14:16 > 0:14:20- ..and I also thought the people - were friendlier than us...
0:14:20 > 0:14:24- ..since our people had forgotten - the important things in life.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26- He agreed with that...
0:14:27 > 0:14:31- ..and told me he'd pray for us - to find the important things again.
0:14:31 > 0:14:36- But we had to make a contribution - before he prayed for us.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39- Some cola nuts and a few coins.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- These are bones - from the mouths of sheep and goats.
0:14:59 > 0:15:03- They are sacrificed - when a blessing is needed...
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- ..for an infertile couple, for - example, or a plea for rain.
0:15:10 > 0:15:12- The cemetery is higher up the cliff.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- The bodies of people - who still believed...
0:15:16 > 0:15:18- ..in the Dogon religion - were buried there.
0:15:18 > 0:15:23- It was an incredible place - with a very special atmosphere.
0:15:25 > 0:15:29- After the Hogon had asked me - if I had a cure for his cold...
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- ..we headed for Ende...
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- ..where a traditional dance - was about to begin.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40- DRUM BEAT
0:15:57 > 0:16:00- Masks are very important - in Dogon dances.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- These are masks and women's dresses.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06- This is a dance to honour women.
0:16:06 > 0:16:10- As I said, the Dogon stress - what's important in life!
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- All of a sudden, - my guide had to join in the fun.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16- He was quite a mover!
0:16:26 > 0:16:31- All this physical activity in - the dust and heat is alien to me!
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- In the end, - I think they got a bit tired!
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- Ende is used to seeing tourists.
0:16:43 > 0:16:49- I'm on my way to Dogo now, - which is well off the beaten track.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- They don't see - white people very often there.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17- HE SINGS
0:17:17 > 0:17:20- This is a humdinger of a welcome.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23- This is the 'griot', the town crier - who makes all the announcements.
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- He's letting everyone know I'm here.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29- You couldn't visit this place - discreetly.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- The greeting can be complicated, - and can last a long time!
0:18:06 > 0:18:11- He's asking after my parents, - grandparents, my family...
0:18:11 > 0:18:14- ..my friends, the weather, - my cat and my dog!
0:18:14 > 0:18:17- He's given me a new name - Nantumeh.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- That's quite an honour. - I'm the First Lady of Dogo now.
0:18:27 > 0:18:31- During a tour of the village, - I meet the women who prepare supper.
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- They want to give me a quick lesson.
0:18:46 > 0:18:51- This was hard work, but another - challenge was waiting for me.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- Unfortunately, I was never taught - to spin a baton in Dolgellau.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59- Look at the size of this!
0:19:15 > 0:19:20- With all the children following - my guide and me everywhere...
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- ..I felt like the Pied Piper.
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- They were good company, though.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- The same thing happened - when I lived in Nigeria.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- Everyone has a role to play - in the Dogon community.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- The skill remains within the family, - passed on for generations.
0:19:36 > 0:19:39- The blacksmith's role - is one of the most important.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- This is his son and the bellows - are made from goat skin.
0:19:46 > 0:19:48- The women have specific roles, too.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- The griot's wife mends calabashes...
0:19:51 > 0:19:54- ..and the blacksmith's wife - makes pottery.
0:19:54 > 0:19:56- This is the blacksmith's family.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- The greeting lesson I'd had - came in very handy.
0:20:13 > 0:20:14- BABY WHIMPERS
0:20:14 > 0:20:15- BABY WHIMPERS- - Oh, dear!
0:20:16 > 0:20:18- Hello! Hiya!
0:20:18 > 0:20:20- That's the way to do it!
0:20:21 > 0:20:25- All these children - are related to the blacksmith.
0:20:25 > 0:20:31- Not all are his children - but they belong to his family.
0:20:31 > 0:20:33- You're the newest arrival!
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- You haven't seen - a white person before!
0:20:39 > 0:20:41- He's just farted!
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- This is one of the elders.
0:20:50 > 0:20:55- He's highly respected and has - a certain dignity about him.
0:20:55 > 0:21:00- He is the 'animiste' - a soothsayer - who can see into the future.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03- This was serious business, - especially when he forecast...
0:21:04 > 0:21:06- ..whether we would have - a safe journey.
0:21:06 > 0:21:11- With the help of his apprentice, - he proceeded with the ritual.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- The four feathers - represented the four of us.
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- Watch carefully! - This is where the magic happens.
0:21:40 > 0:21:42- THE APPRENTICE SHOUTS
0:21:48 > 0:21:51- One of us knocks the calabash...
0:21:51 > 0:21:54- ..and explain to me - how that happened!
0:21:54 > 0:21:58- One of the feathers was on its side - but there was no need to worry.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02- The animiste would conduct another - ritual to ensure our safe passage.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- He would sacrifice - a white hen for us.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09- It was a very strange experience...
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- ..and yes, - we all arrived home safely.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- The journey through Mali - was drawing to end.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- It was the most interesting country - so far.
0:22:32 > 0:22:37- The people, religion and rituals - of Dogo will stay in my memory.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40- I was truly enchanted here.
0:22:52 > 0:22:56- I'm bound to see interesting people - again on this journey...
0:22:56 > 0:23:00- ..but I doubt I'll ever meet people - like the Dogon again.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04- What makes them interesting - is the fact...
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- ..that they've kept out - external influences for centuries.
0:23:09 > 0:23:13- Times change, though. - More tourists arrive every year.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15- I know we help them financially...
0:23:15 > 0:23:18- ..but we're bound to change them - in the end.
0:23:19 > 0:23:21- But people living - in some remote villages...
0:23:22 > 0:23:24- ..refuse to accept - tourists among them.
0:23:24 > 0:23:26- And I'm glad of that!
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- Next week, I'll have to re-pack - my case completely.
0:23:36 > 0:23:40- I'll be freezing in Antarctica - and the South Pole.
0:23:40 > 0:23:43- From the frying pan into the ice!
0:23:43 > 0:23:45- Thermal knickers it is, then!
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan