Pennod 9

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0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888

0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888- - 888

0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Bula! I'm in Fiji.

0:00:02 > 0:00:07- Some of you clever people might be - looking at a map right now...

0:00:07 > 0:00:11- ..I know Fiji isn't on - the 175-degree longitude line...

0:00:11 > 0:00:15- ..but there's very little between - New Zealand and the North Pole.

0:00:16 > 0:00:19- Every now and then, we're permitted - to make a little detour.

0:00:19 > 0:00:22- Where better - to make a little detour than Fiji!

0:00:23 > 0:00:25- 888

0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888

0:00:37 > 0:00:39- 888

0:00:45 > 0:00:49- Fiji isn't all palm trees - and golden beaches.

0:00:49 > 0:00:53- I've reached the main island, Viti - Levu, and the busy town of Nadi.

0:00:53 > 0:00:58- It's written 'Nadi', - but it's pronounced 'Nandi'.

0:01:01 > 0:01:03- Look how far I've travelled!

0:01:03 > 0:01:05- It's a wonder - I haven't caught a cold.

0:01:05 > 0:01:09- I've travelled from the heat to - the cold and back to the heat again.

0:01:10 > 0:01:14- Fiji is a collection of 300 - small islands in the Pacific Ocean.

0:01:14 > 0:01:18- Fiji is a mix of people - from many different nations...

0:01:19 > 0:01:23- ..the biggest mix of all of the - Pacific Ocean's southern islands.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26- Indo-Fijians have lived here - for four generations.

0:01:26 > 0:01:30- They were forced out of India - by the British.

0:01:30 > 0:01:34- They form 45% of the population and - their culture is very evident here.

0:01:39 > 0:01:42- As a former teacher, - I was eager to visit the schools.

0:01:42 > 0:01:46- This school is proud - of being so multi-cultural.

0:01:46 > 0:01:50- They're also keen - on health and safety issues.

0:01:51 > 0:01:56- Put your hands up, those of you who - have heard of Wales before today?

0:01:56 > 0:01:59- Be honest, hands up - if you have heard of Wales.

0:02:00 > 0:02:02- Oh, dear.

0:02:03 > 0:02:07- Once a teacher, always a teacher!

0:02:07 > 0:02:09- I was a geography teacher - for the day.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14- I was trying to find out - if they knew where Wales was.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17- I eventually found one volunteer!

0:02:22 > 0:02:24- Here?

0:02:25 > 0:02:29- He's clever. Japan! - Are you from Japan?

0:02:33 > 0:02:35- Wales?

0:02:35 > 0:02:37- Here!

0:02:37 > 0:02:40- Good. Close. - That's Scotland, actually.

0:02:40 > 0:02:45- If they weren't sure where we lived, - they'd certainly heard of us.

0:02:45 > 0:02:47- Fijians love their rugby...

0:02:47 > 0:02:52- ..and even though the headmistress - knew nothing of our visit...

0:02:52 > 0:02:55- ..she was wearing a WRU badge...

0:02:56 > 0:02:59- ..because it went - with her red blouse.

0:02:59 > 0:03:01- I'm wearing it today.

0:03:01 > 0:03:05- This is the first time this year - I'm wearing this blouse.

0:03:05 > 0:03:07- It was meant to happen.

0:03:07 > 0:03:09- Of course.

0:03:11 > 0:03:14- This is what most people - look for in Fiji.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- The native name for the island is - Tai. It's called Beachcomber now.

0:03:19 > 0:03:21- Tai must be - too difficult to pronounce!

0:03:22 > 0:03:25- It's a small island - famous for its party atmosphere...

0:03:25 > 0:03:28- ..and it's a playground - for the under-30s.

0:03:35 > 0:03:38- This is another world.

0:03:38 > 0:03:41- It's wonderful.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- The coral looks like brains.

0:03:44 > 0:03:47- Some of it looks like lace.

0:03:48 > 0:03:50- It comes in many different colours.

0:03:50 > 0:03:53- Another one looks like - an electric shock!

0:03:54 > 0:03:56- The fish are amazing.

0:03:56 > 0:04:00- When you're underwater, - you can hear them speak.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04- They might be farting - for all I know!

0:04:06 > 0:04:09- Some of them will nibble - at your hand.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13- If you've never been snorkelling - or scuba diving...

0:04:13 > 0:04:16- ..do it now before it's too late.

0:04:16 > 0:04:19- It's an amazing experience.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21- I'm going back now.

0:05:14 > 0:05:17- The tourist industry - is very important here...

0:05:17 > 0:05:20- ..but agriculture remains - the main industry.

0:05:21 > 0:05:24- One third of the population - works in the sugar plantations.

0:05:24 > 0:05:29- When Fiji was colonised, - the British government decided...

0:05:29 > 0:05:33- ..to plant sugar so that - they could fill their coffers.

0:05:33 > 0:05:37- But Fijians were unhappy - with their working conditions...

0:05:37 > 0:05:39- ..and they refused to work.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41- Britain then turned - its sights to India...

0:05:42 > 0:05:46- ..and told the Indians they could - expect a wonderful life in Fiji.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50- If they signed a five-year contract, - they would make a fortune.

0:05:50 > 0:05:52- Thousands of Indians moved here...

0:05:53 > 0:05:57- ..only to find long working hours, - poor living standards...

0:05:57 > 0:05:59- ..and very little money.

0:05:59 > 0:06:04- But, they had signed the contract.

0:06:04 > 0:06:08- When the contracts ended, most - had little choice but to stay here.

0:06:08 > 0:06:11- They had no money to return home.

0:06:11 > 0:06:14- Bechu Prasad was born here - soon after his parents moved here.

0:06:15 > 0:06:17- Was your father sorry he had come?

0:06:17 > 0:06:19- He was sorry. He was very sorry.

0:06:20 > 0:06:25- When we filmed this, he was 104. - He was the oldest man in Fiji.

0:06:25 > 0:06:30- We recently heard he died on the - 6th of September at the age of 105.

0:06:30 > 0:06:32- It was an honour to meet him.

0:06:32 > 0:06:36- He remembers how hard his father - worked for a wage...

0:06:36 > 0:06:38- ..that made him - little more than a slave.

0:06:39 > 0:06:42- The tragedy was - his father never had a choice.

0:06:42 > 0:06:46- He was bound in chains in India - and forced to leave.

0:06:46 > 0:06:49- Ship coming now. Go Fiji.

0:06:49 > 0:06:51- So, he had no choice.

0:06:51 > 0:06:54- He was forced to come.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56- Forced, forced.

0:06:56 > 0:06:58- This is a tragic story.

0:06:58 > 0:07:02- Husbands, wives and children - were separated...

0:07:03 > 0:07:05- ..and never saw each other again.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08- They were abused by their masters...

0:07:08 > 0:07:10- ..and many died of injuries - and illnesses.

0:07:11 > 0:07:14- Many committed suicide - to avoid living through their hell.

0:07:14 > 0:07:19- Mahatma Gandhi's missionaries tried - to alert the world of the situation.

0:07:19 > 0:07:23- Finally, the contracting - and the hell came to an end.

0:07:26 > 0:07:30- This paradise - is the Garden of the Sleeping Giant.

0:07:30 > 0:07:35- It used to belong to Raymond Burr - - yes, the actor who played Ironside.

0:07:35 > 0:07:39- He fell in love with the orchids...

0:07:39 > 0:07:42- ..and there are 2,000 - different varieties here now.

0:07:43 > 0:07:45- So far, - I've only followed the coast.

0:07:45 > 0:07:51- There are summits behind me, - so it's time to head for the hills.

0:08:00 > 0:08:03- I'm on my way to the village - of Yavuna...

0:08:03 > 0:08:06- ..where people live - the old way of life...

0:08:06 > 0:08:09- ..which includes - the 'sevu sevu' ceremony.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12- It's a ceremony to welcome visitors.

0:08:12 > 0:08:15- The head of the village - accepts a gift from us...

0:08:16 > 0:08:19- ..the roots of a plant - that makes the kava.

0:08:27 > 0:08:29- HE RECITES

0:08:32 > 0:08:34- THEY CHANT

0:08:40 > 0:08:45- An important part of the ceremony - is that the visitor drinks the kava.

0:08:45 > 0:08:47- It's slightly narcotic, - apparently...

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- ..and good for depression - and lowering your blood pressure.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54- It has to be drunk - in a specific way.

0:08:54 > 0:08:57- I was meant to clap once - when I received it...

0:08:57 > 0:09:00- ..say 'bula', which means life, - and then down the drink.

0:09:00 > 0:09:02- I hadn't understood that part.

0:09:02 > 0:09:04- Bula.

0:09:08 > 0:09:10- I'd been told - that it had a horrible taste...

0:09:11 > 0:09:13- ..but it wasn't that bad.

0:09:13 > 0:09:15- Cold water which tasted like earth.

0:09:15 > 0:09:19- My tongue started tingling - soon after and I felt light-headed.

0:09:20 > 0:09:22- A song and a special dance - came next.

0:09:23 > 0:09:27- But since it was Saturday, the - regular dancers were playing rugby!

0:09:28 > 0:09:31- These did their best - but laughed most of the time.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40- THEY LAUGH

0:09:46 > 0:09:50- Everyone else in the village - went indoors...

0:09:50 > 0:09:54- ..to drink what remained - of the kava - it's a social event.

0:09:54 > 0:09:57- While they drank, - I received a language lesson.

0:09:57 > 0:09:59- And more food!

0:10:05 > 0:10:06- 'Moca'

0:10:06 > 0:10:08- 'Moca'- - 'Moca' means bye-bye!

0:10:09 > 0:10:11- 'Moca' also means bye-bye, - doesn't it?

0:10:11 > 0:10:14- That's 'Moce'.

0:10:14 > 0:10:16- Moce!

0:10:17 > 0:10:19- I enjoyed meeting the people here.

0:10:20 > 0:10:22- I met one very special man.

0:10:23 > 0:10:26- A man who influenced - the sporting life of Fiji.

0:10:26 > 0:10:29- Rugby is the most popular game - by a long way...

0:10:29 > 0:10:32- ..but volleyball - is very popular, too...

0:10:32 > 0:10:36- ..thanks to the efforts - of this man - Tai Eparama Nakoro.

0:10:36 > 0:10:41- As a young man, he worked in the - kitchens of Pan-American Airways...

0:10:41 > 0:10:43- ..for 22 years.

0:10:43 > 0:10:46- He worked and socialised - with the Americans.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49- He also learned - how to play volleyball.

0:10:49 > 0:10:53- That's an American game, - volleyball, not a British game.

0:10:53 > 0:10:56- And there was no volleyball in Fiji?

0:10:56 > 0:10:58- No volleyball in Fiji.

0:10:58 > 0:11:00- So you brought it to Fiji.

0:11:00 > 0:11:04- I brought it. When I came back, - I brought one ball.

0:11:04 > 0:11:06- One ball.

0:11:06 > 0:11:09- I got the net, the fishing net...

0:11:09 > 0:11:13- ..and I tied the fishing net - from one tree to another tree.

0:11:13 > 0:11:14- Then, we start to play.

0:11:15 > 0:11:19- And now Fiji is playing volleyball.

0:11:20 > 0:11:22- Everywhere they like volleyball.

0:11:22 > 0:11:24- Thanks to you.

0:11:24 > 0:11:27- That's why the government - gave me a medal.

0:11:28 > 0:11:32- The President gave me a medal - because all the sport in Fiji...

0:11:32 > 0:11:34- ..was brought by the white man.

0:11:34 > 0:11:36- Except volleyball.

0:11:38 > 0:11:40- Congratulations!

0:11:40 > 0:11:43- I love the way Fijians laugh!

0:11:44 > 0:11:46- I love Fijians full stop!

0:11:47 > 0:11:48- And that's it from Fiji.

0:11:49 > 0:11:52- The heat almost killed me, - the kava was lethal...

0:11:52 > 0:11:55- ..I'm not sure - if it's gone to my head.

0:11:55 > 0:12:00- The welcome from these people - is the warmest one I've ever had.

0:12:00 > 0:12:03- I've loved my stay here - - pity I can't stay any longer.

0:12:03 > 0:12:05- It's time to get back on the line...

0:12:06 > 0:12:08- ..and I'm heading - for the North Pole next!

0:12:08 > 0:12:10- It's very cold there!

0:12:11 > 0:12:15- From Fiji, for now, - farewell, ta-ra...

0:12:15 > 0:12:18- ..or as they say here, 'Moce'!

0:12:18 > 0:12:20- Moce!

0:12:29 > 0:12:29- 888

0:12:29 > 0:12:31- 888- - 888

0:12:36 > 0:12:38- Things have changed considerably.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41- From the sweltering heat of Fiji - to this!

0:12:41 > 0:12:43- The Arctic!

0:12:43 > 0:12:45- I'm freezing!

0:12:45 > 0:12:49- It's a huge leap from Fiji, - across the Pacific Ocean...

0:12:49 > 0:12:51- ..to Svalbard in the north.

0:12:51 > 0:12:54- There is a part of Siberia - in the middle...

0:12:54 > 0:12:59- ..but there's no-one there and - we visited it in the last series.

0:12:59 > 0:13:03- Svalbard is a group of islands - in the upper reaches of the Arctic.

0:13:04 > 0:13:05- They are controlled by Norway.

0:13:20 > 0:13:23- Coal mining - is the main industry here.

0:13:23 > 0:13:25- At one time, - thousands of years ago...

0:13:25 > 0:13:29- ..Svalbard was close - to the equator...

0:13:29 > 0:13:32- ..and was covered - by tropical plants and trees.

0:13:32 > 0:13:36- As the islands drifted north, - the temperature dropped...

0:13:36 > 0:13:40- ..and the trees died - that's why - there's so much coal here.

0:13:40 > 0:13:45- Around 3,000 people live - on the islands of Svalbard.

0:13:46 > 0:13:49- Most of the live here, - in Longyearbyen.

0:13:49 > 0:13:52- This is the social - and administrative centre.

0:13:53 > 0:13:56- There's a hospital - and an university here.

0:13:56 > 0:13:59- But there's no graveyard - - the ground's too hard!

0:13:59 > 0:14:02- Norwegian is the official language.

0:14:02 > 0:14:07- For the first time on this journey, - I couldn't understand the locals.

0:14:07 > 0:14:10- But reading didn't pose a problem.

0:14:10 > 0:14:13- Norwegian is quite easy - to understand.

0:14:13 > 0:14:16- What do you think this building is? - 'Sykehus'!

0:14:16 > 0:14:19- Sick house - yes, a hospital!

0:14:25 > 0:14:28- 'Bibliotek' - books - library.

0:14:28 > 0:14:30- Sport. Obvious.

0:14:30 > 0:14:33- 'Suvenirer'. Gallery. Cafe bar.

0:14:33 > 0:14:37- Classic Pizza - that's the same - all around the world.

0:14:40 > 0:14:44- The snow isn't a problem here. - People drive cars.

0:14:44 > 0:14:47- But there are easier ways to travel.

0:14:47 > 0:14:52- But if you want to go - for a walk outside the town...

0:14:52 > 0:14:55- ..you must carry one of these.

0:14:55 > 0:14:59- Why? There are a lot of these - around the place!

0:14:59 > 0:15:03- There are between 3,000-5,000 - polar bears around Svalbard.

0:15:03 > 0:15:07- They're very dangerous. - Once you pass this sign...

0:15:07 > 0:15:09- ..you've got to keep a look out!

0:15:25 > 0:15:29- Before heading off for the North - Pole, I wandered around the island.

0:15:30 > 0:15:32- The best way to do that - is on a snowmobile.

0:15:33 > 0:15:36- Yay! I've always - wanted to drive a snowmobile.

0:15:36 > 0:15:38- I'm the one in the red, by the way.

0:15:39 > 0:15:43- They can go anywhere, they're - easy to handle - and nippy...

0:15:43 > 0:15:48- ..except when a cameraman is - hanging on tightly with one hand!

0:15:57 > 0:15:59- The views are heavenly...

0:16:00 > 0:16:03- ..but we didn't see - a single polar bear!

0:16:03 > 0:16:05- That's the way it goes sometimes.

0:16:06 > 0:16:09- Svalbard is close - to the top of the world.

0:16:09 > 0:16:12- The North Pole is the other side - of those mountains.

0:16:13 > 0:16:15- It's only three hours - in an aeroplane.

0:16:19 > 0:16:22- The aeroplane left at 3.00am. - Since we're so close to the Pole...

0:16:23 > 0:16:27- ..it doesn't get totally dark here - this time of year.

0:16:27 > 0:16:30- Russians owned the plane - - Antonov...

0:16:30 > 0:16:33- ..and it was quite comfortable - - it had its own toilet.

0:16:33 > 0:16:36- Without an in-flight film, - there was only one thing to do.

0:16:39 > 0:16:42- Before long, - we'd flown into daylight.

0:16:42 > 0:16:46- The crew concentrated on landing - the plane near Ice Station Borneo...

0:16:46 > 0:16:49- ..which is built - for a few weeks each year.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59- There's only nine feet of ice - beneath us.

0:16:59 > 0:17:03- But the pilot knows what - he's doing and lands in style.

0:17:15 > 0:17:20- Some people stay at the camp - throughout the time it's there.

0:17:20 > 0:17:23- Most people, though, - just come and go...

0:17:23 > 0:17:26- ..either as part - of their Arctic adventure...

0:17:26 > 0:17:31- ..or to reach the North Pole - to say that they've been there.

0:17:35 > 0:17:40- You have to create your own - entertainment at Borneo.

0:17:40 > 0:17:44- Playing the accordion is - a good way of warming your fingers.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46- It was minus 33 degrees Celsius.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51- Some of you will have noticed - a few things.

0:17:51 > 0:17:56- Firstly, I look like a cross between - a weeble and the Michelin Man...

0:17:56 > 0:17:59- ..but these clothes are a necessity - when you visit the North Pole.

0:17:59 > 0:18:02- It's very cold here! - My hair has frozen!

0:18:02 > 0:18:08- Secondly, some of you have - followed this series with an atlas.

0:18:08 > 0:18:12- You will have noted that Svalbard - is nowhere near the line.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15- I know, - but to reach the North Pole...

0:18:15 > 0:18:18- ..we had to go through Svalbard.

0:18:18 > 0:18:22- It was the same with the South Pole - when we went through Chile.

0:18:23 > 0:18:27- Anyway, we left Svalbard - this morning on an aeroplane...

0:18:27 > 0:18:30- ..and we've reached - Ice Station Borneo...

0:18:30 > 0:18:32- ..which is run by the Russians.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36- The Russians not only - run this part of the world...

0:18:36 > 0:18:38- ..but they flew - the aeroplane here...

0:18:38 > 0:18:42- ..they will fly the helicopter - that takes us to the North Pole...

0:18:42 > 0:18:46- ..they flew us to Patriot Hills - in the South Pole...

0:18:46 > 0:18:49- ..they owned - the Kapitan Klebnikov...

0:18:49 > 0:18:53- ..and they also - flew the helicopters down there.

0:18:53 > 0:18:55- They've got a bit of a monopoly.

0:18:56 > 0:18:59- There's a reason for that - - they understand ice.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01- They know their Poles.

0:19:01 > 0:19:04- As do I now. Well, almost.

0:19:04 > 0:19:08- I've been to the South Pole. - It's the North Pole next.

0:19:11 > 0:19:15- Wherever you go in the Arctic, - you'll find some dogs.

0:19:15 > 0:19:17- Using dogs is the best way - to travel...

0:19:18 > 0:19:22- ..when there are - no petrol stations nearby!

0:19:22 > 0:19:24- Ask Amundsen.

0:19:25 > 0:19:29- As we set off for the North Pole, I - saw how efficient these dogs can be.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32- That's me losing my hat once again.

0:19:32 > 0:19:34- It's starting to become a habit.

0:19:42 > 0:19:45- It was soon time - to head for the North Pole.

0:19:46 > 0:19:51- Until recently, this helicopter had - been in active service in Chechnya.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55- Holes in its side were evidence - of its adventures in war.

0:20:12 > 0:20:15- Seeing the Arctic from the air...

0:20:15 > 0:20:19- ..gives you an idea of the size - and isolation of the North Pole.

0:20:21 > 0:20:26- I wasn't lonely in the helicopter. - We were like sardines.

0:20:29 > 0:20:32- Within half an hour, - we landed on the North Pole.

0:20:33 > 0:20:34- Carefully.

0:20:38 > 0:20:42- In contrast to the South Pole, - there's nothing at the North Pole.

0:20:42 > 0:20:46- It's a frozen sea - and the ice moves constantly.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49- There's no point - trying to mark the exact spot.

0:20:50 > 0:20:53- It wouldn't be - on the North Pole for long.

0:20:53 > 0:20:56- But this is far prettier - than the South Pole.

0:20:58 > 0:21:00- I'm here in the North Pole.

0:21:00 > 0:21:02- I'm on top of the world.

0:21:02 > 0:21:07- I don't know if the Welsh flag has - been here before, but it's here now.

0:21:07 > 0:21:09- It looks lovely here but it's not.

0:21:10 > 0:21:14- It's minus 33 degrees and - the wind-chill makes it minus 35.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17- What's strange is, - I'm standing here, aren't I?

0:21:17 > 0:21:21- If I walk towards you, - I'm heading south.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23- If I go that way, I'm heading south.

0:21:23 > 0:21:27- No matter which way I walk - from here, I'm heading south.

0:21:27 > 0:21:29- The ice beneath me is still moving.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32- It's constantly moving.

0:21:34 > 0:21:38- In the time we've been here, it - will probably have moved 10 metres.

0:21:38 > 0:21:42- I like it here. - This is better than the South Pole.

0:21:43 > 0:21:47- It's so unspoilt - there's nothing - here, but I don't want to stay long.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49- It's a tad cold!

0:21:50 > 0:21:53- It was so cold, my fillings hurt!

0:21:53 > 0:21:56- Minus 44, but with the wind-chill, - it was almost minus 60.

0:21:57 > 0:22:00- People visit the North Pole - for a variety of reasons.

0:22:00 > 0:22:04- This time, three mad men - from Canada and America...

0:22:04 > 0:22:09- ..parachuted from the helicopter and - landed on the North Pole in style.

0:22:09 > 0:22:11- This was their lifelong ambition.

0:22:12 > 0:22:14- I think this is - the only footage of anyone...

0:22:14 > 0:22:16- ..parachuting on to the North Pole.

0:22:16 > 0:22:20- They were surprised to see - so much clear water beneath them.

0:22:20 > 0:22:22- It proves that the North Pole - is melting...

0:22:22 > 0:22:25- ..but they carried on regardless.

0:22:29 > 0:22:31- I paraglided once...

0:22:31 > 0:22:33- ..and I'd love to do this.

0:22:34 > 0:22:37- But I think it should be left - to the experts.

0:22:41 > 0:22:44- Their eyes were incredible - when they landed...

0:22:44 > 0:22:50- ..eyes beaming wildly with light - framed by frozen-solid eyebrows.

0:22:51 > 0:22:53- Yo-ho! Yeah, baby! Yeah!

0:22:54 > 0:22:59- One had brought his daughter's - letter to Santa Claus with him...

0:22:59 > 0:23:03- ..and he buried it in the ice - ready for next Christmas.

0:23:03 > 0:23:05- That was the North Pole.

0:23:05 > 0:23:10- Next week, I'll be visiting - the Faroe Islands and Scotland.

0:23:10 > 0:23:14- So, for now, - from the North Pole, goodbye.

0:23:20 > 0:23:25- Next week, I'll be - playing football in the Faroes...

0:23:25 > 0:23:29- ..and I'll be back on the ice - in Scotland!

0:23:33 > 0:23:35- S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan