Borneo

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0:00:02 > 0:00:06- I've met many interesting people - on my travels around the world.

0:00:06 > 0:00:09- These creatures - are the loveliest of all.

0:00:09 > 0:00:14- I'm in Borneo, the country of the - orangutans. Welcome to Ar y Lein.

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0:00:39 > 0:00:42- I'm continuing my journey - along the equator.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44- I've reached Borneo.

0:00:50 > 0:00:54- It's a huge leap from - the Galapagos Islands to Borneo...

0:00:54 > 0:00:57- ..the third largest island - in the world.

0:00:57 > 0:01:01- The island consists - of Brunei, Malaysia and Indonesia.

0:01:01 > 0:01:05- The equator - goes right through Indonesia...

0:01:05 > 0:01:07- ..which is where I am this week.

0:01:21 > 0:01:26- It seems I'll be living on bananas - and fish during the near future.

0:01:27 > 0:01:28- I said I was in Borneo.

0:01:28 > 0:01:31- There's no mention of Borneo - on this map of Indonesia.

0:01:32 > 0:01:38- This is the island the British - have always called Borneo.

0:01:38 > 0:01:42- But in this green sector, - in Indonesia...

0:01:42 > 0:01:45- ..it's called Kalimantan.

0:01:45 > 0:01:48- It's always been Kalimantan - to local people.

0:01:48 > 0:01:53- I'm in the capital city of Samarinda - on the banks of the river Mahakam.

0:01:54 > 0:01:58- The Mahakam is the busiest river - in east Kalimantan.

0:01:58 > 0:02:01- The transport system - isn't great here.

0:02:02 > 0:02:07- The rivers offer the best and - cheapest forms of travel and trade.

0:02:07 > 0:02:09- The wood, the oil and the coal...

0:02:10 > 0:02:14- ..the main local industries, - are transported on ships.

0:02:14 > 0:02:18- This is also how local traders - bring food into the city.

0:02:25 > 0:02:30- This is Samarinda's primary market, - right in the city centre.

0:02:30 > 0:02:32- There's a good choice of fish.

0:02:33 > 0:02:36- The size and quality - of the vegetables...

0:02:36 > 0:02:40- ..and fruit highlight - the fertility of the land.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44- Then again, - a lot is imported from New Zealand.

0:02:44 > 0:02:50- It's wet here and floods are - a common occurrence on low land.

0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Coming from Wales, I'm used to that!

0:02:53 > 0:02:56- Over 500,000 people - live in Samarinda.

0:02:56 > 0:03:01- This is the most densely-populated - city in east Kalimantan.

0:03:02 > 0:03:04- And the one with most motorbikes.

0:03:07 > 0:03:11- This is the most modern and - industrial part of Kalimantan...

0:03:11 > 0:03:14- ..but old traditions, such as - weaving, are still carried out.

0:03:15 > 0:03:19- Weaving is popular here, - as it was in Ecuador.

0:03:20 > 0:03:22- The materials used here - are more delicate.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24- They use silk instead of wool.

0:03:24 > 0:03:29- It takes years to master the craft, - as Ibu Assegaf explained to me.

0:03:32 > 0:03:37- This is what women do at home when - they're not cooking or cleaning.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40- She's been weaving for 30 years...

0:03:41 > 0:03:45- ..and it still takes her 20 days - to weave one sarong.

0:03:45 > 0:03:48- She allowed me to have a go at it.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57- I'm longer than you!

0:03:57 > 0:03:59- My legs are longer!

0:04:02 > 0:04:06- It's one of these things - which looks easy until you try it.

0:04:08 > 0:04:10- This is so complicated.

0:04:14 > 0:04:16- She had the patience of Job...

0:04:17 > 0:04:19- ..but I had no idea - what I was doing.

0:04:20 > 0:04:22- Sorry!

0:04:25 > 0:04:28- I feel like a baby - sitting in a baby seat!

0:04:31 > 0:04:33- I didn't last long there...

0:04:33 > 0:04:36- ..so I accepted her invitation - to wear a sarong.

0:04:36 > 0:04:40- There was plenty of material - to go around... just!

0:04:43 > 0:04:45- Does it accentuate my waist?

0:04:48 > 0:04:51- Nice? What do you think?

0:04:54 > 0:04:56- No, I didn't buy it.

0:04:56 > 0:05:00- I moved on to meet the people - I wanted to meet the most...

0:05:00 > 0:05:04- ..the Dayaks, and - to stay in one of their longhouses.

0:05:04 > 0:05:11- As the crow flies, Tanjung Isuy - isn't far from Samarinda.

0:05:11 > 0:05:13- But we weren't flying with crows!

0:05:15 > 0:05:17- We're on our way to see the Dayaks.

0:05:17 > 0:05:22- It's a long journey and we'll need - some food on the journey.

0:05:22 > 0:05:26- We're loading up the car - - bananas, fish... Wa-hey!

0:05:26 > 0:05:28- We almost lost the fish!

0:05:29 > 0:05:31- Let's close the boot.

0:05:32 > 0:05:34- One, two, three.

0:05:42 > 0:05:46- The journey went well early on - and we enjoyed the scenery.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49- Then it started raining...

0:05:50 > 0:05:52- ..heavily!

0:05:52 > 0:05:57- After seven hours, - we were still driving... and lost!

0:05:57 > 0:06:00- It wasn't a road to be on - in the dark.

0:06:04 > 0:06:08- We finally reached our destination. - All I wanted to do was go to bed...

0:06:08 > 0:06:10- ..but I had to help cook the supper.

0:06:11 > 0:06:14- I was put off by the fact - that the fish...

0:06:14 > 0:06:17- ..were still alive - when they were cleaned.

0:06:18 > 0:06:21- I offered to gut the others - if they were killed first.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29- Someone will have to clean that!

0:06:31 > 0:06:33- Cloth please!

0:06:39 > 0:06:43- I then realised why they were kept - alive until the final moment.

0:06:43 > 0:06:47- Their insides would swell - after only a few moments.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- The knife didn't help me either - - or the fish.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53- It was like grabbing a bar of soap!

0:06:53 > 0:06:55- Good enough!

0:06:58 > 0:07:01- I washed my hands for ages.

0:07:04 > 0:07:09- Here's the 'piece de resistance' - - the fish which travelled with us.

0:07:09 > 0:07:12- We're also having - chicken and lobster.

0:07:12 > 0:07:14- Bon appetit.

0:07:17 > 0:07:20- We don't bother with knives - and forks.

0:07:20 > 0:07:24- We eat in the traditional way... - with our hands!

0:07:24 > 0:07:29- I like eating like this. How do - you do this without making a mess?

0:07:39 > 0:07:43- The following morning, I set off - with the head of the Dayak family.

0:07:43 > 0:07:47- He'd invited me to help with his - everyday work - gathering rubber.

0:07:52 > 0:07:56- The Dayaks have always relied - on nature to earn a living.

0:07:56 > 0:08:01- They're known for collecting - materials from the forests...

0:08:01 > 0:08:03- ..including rubber.

0:08:03 > 0:08:08- Indonesia is one of the largest - rubber producers in the world...

0:08:08 > 0:08:13- ..after the British planted - rubber seeds here years ago.

0:08:13 > 0:08:17- Bapak Rasikal Akung treats - 200 rubber trees every day.

0:08:17 > 0:08:22- The first job is to scrape a circle - around the trunk with his knife.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25- This releases - the fresh white rubber...

0:08:26 > 0:08:29- ..which drips into cans and bottles.

0:08:29 > 0:08:33- This is some sort of chemical waste. - He pours it into the rubber...

0:08:34 > 0:08:37- ..to harden it. - It's my turn to have a go.

0:08:40 > 0:08:42- Yeah? No?

0:08:47 > 0:08:49- It's odourless.

0:08:51 > 0:08:53- Well done.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55- Another 198 trees to go!

0:08:57 > 0:09:00- After treating the trees...

0:09:00 > 0:09:04- ..the hardened rubber - is extracted from the cans.

0:09:04 > 0:09:08- This is what rubber looks like - after hardening for a week.

0:09:08 > 0:09:10- He sells it like this.

0:09:11 > 0:09:14- He receives 50p per kilo.

0:09:14 > 0:09:17- He makes eighty kilos a week.

0:09:17 > 0:09:20- I can't work out - how much he earns in a week.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23- It's not much.

0:09:24 > 0:09:28- 40 a week. A good wage - in this part of the world.

0:09:28 > 0:09:33- When I returned to the house, - the family had arranged...

0:09:33 > 0:09:35- ..a welcoming ceremony for me.

0:09:38 > 0:09:41- He asked if I was the bearer - of good news. Yes, I replied.

0:09:42 > 0:09:47- I knew I had to cut this line but I - had no idea what would happen next.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06- Uh-oh!

0:10:09 > 0:10:12- TRADITIONAL DANCE MUSIC

0:10:15 > 0:10:17- Right, what happens now?

0:10:38 > 0:10:40- Oy! Nobody mentioned that!

0:10:40 > 0:10:44- Baring my stomach? - I never bare my stomach.

0:10:44 > 0:10:48- I was just glad I was on my back, - wet nest on my head or not.

0:10:48 > 0:10:52- The cameraman was in stitches!

0:11:01 > 0:11:04- I had been spiritually - and physically cleansed.

0:11:05 > 0:11:10- I know this sounds stupid - but I did feel better afterwards.

0:11:10 > 0:11:12- Lighter somehow.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19- The Dayaks - are the native population of Borneo.

0:11:20 > 0:11:24- There are 200 different tribes, - each with its own language.

0:11:26 > 0:11:31- They used to behead their enemies - and live in longhouses like these.

0:11:32 > 0:11:36- Their beheading days are over - and thanks to government grants...

0:11:36 > 0:11:39- ..the longhouses - are rented to tourists.

0:11:41 > 0:11:46- Here, you'll find women selling - traditional crafts and mod cons.

0:11:47 > 0:11:49- It wasn't what I'd expected.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53- Everyone needs to make a living - though.

0:11:55 > 0:11:57- I slept here last night.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01- Under my mosquito net. - I expected this...

0:12:01 > 0:12:04- ..but I didn't expect - a mattress and a bed.

0:12:04 > 0:12:07- I'd expected to sleep - on the floor...

0:12:07 > 0:12:10- ..and do my business in the jungle!

0:12:10 > 0:12:12- There are showers and toilets here.

0:12:13 > 0:12:16- I can even power my laptop - using the electricity.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21- One thing made it feel - like a real experience though.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24- The cockerel waking us up at 4.00am.

0:12:27 > 0:12:32- Their way of life is very healthy. - They live to a ripe old age.

0:12:34 > 0:12:40- And that's it from me, the Dayaks - and this man who's 130 years old.

0:12:40 > 0:12:45- After the break, - I'll be joined by some orangutans.

0:12:52 > 0:12:52- 888

0:12:52 > 0:12:54- 888- - 888

0:13:09 > 0:13:11- No, you're right.

0:13:12 > 0:13:14- These aren't orangutans.

0:13:14 > 0:13:18- I've stopped off at a crocodile farm - on my way to see the orangutans.

0:13:18 > 0:13:22- There are over 1,200 crocodiles - on this farm near Samboja.

0:13:22 > 0:13:25- They are bred for their skin - and meat.

0:13:26 > 0:13:28- These are babies!

0:13:34 > 0:13:36- These are the big ones.

0:13:36 > 0:13:38- I wouldn't like to be in his shoes.

0:13:38 > 0:13:43- Hasn't anyone told him that more - people are killed by crocodiles...

0:13:44 > 0:13:46- ..than any other creature - in the world?

0:13:47 > 0:13:49- They're only fed twice a week.

0:13:49 > 0:13:51- Chicken is on the menu today.

0:13:51 > 0:13:54- I don't think they need gravy.

0:13:58 > 0:14:03- How can you tell the difference - between crocodiles and alligators?

0:14:03 > 0:14:06- A crocodile's mouth is thinner...

0:14:06 > 0:14:11- ..and you can see the two front - teeth when its mouth is closed.

0:14:11 > 0:14:12- Interesting, eh?

0:14:13 > 0:14:16- I then went for a walk - with the manager.

0:14:16 > 0:14:21- He told me that crocodile farms - are a good way of making money.

0:14:23 > 0:14:27- There's huge demand for crocodile - meat on the international market.

0:14:28 > 0:14:31- People are willing to pay - high prices for it.

0:14:32 > 0:14:35- There's also demand - for crocodile skin.

0:14:35 > 0:14:39- The most popular items in the shop - are crocodile penises!

0:14:40 > 0:14:44- Some people think that these - have Viagra-like characteristics.

0:14:44 > 0:14:47- I don't know - - this one looks less than interested!

0:14:51 > 0:14:52- You're a big boy!

0:14:55 > 0:14:57- Ooh, cheeky!

0:14:58 > 0:15:03- I know some of you think - that farming crocodiles is cruel.

0:15:03 > 0:15:07- Personally, I don't think it's - any different to farming cattle.

0:15:07 > 0:15:10- We use the skin and the meat - of cattle.

0:15:10 > 0:15:14- For the first time in my life, - I'm going to eat crocodile meat.

0:15:15 > 0:15:19- With chilli. Here goes.

0:15:20 > 0:15:22- Crocodile.

0:15:22 > 0:15:23- Well done.

0:15:28 > 0:15:30- It's lovely.

0:15:33 > 0:15:36- The chillies are hot, too.

0:15:45 > 0:15:50- One of the greatest problems - in Kalimantan and Borneo...

0:15:50 > 0:15:54- ..is jungle deforestation. - They sell the wood...

0:15:54 > 0:15:59- ..but more importantly, they plant - palm trees in their place...

0:15:59 > 0:16:03- ..to make edible vegetable oil - for people like you and I.

0:16:03 > 0:16:07- But this policy has an adverse - affect on the animals.

0:16:07 > 0:16:09- Where are they supposed to go?

0:16:13 > 0:16:16- One place which tries to answer - the problem...

0:16:16 > 0:16:19- ..is Samboja Lodge, - a conservation project...

0:16:20 > 0:16:23- ..set up by the Borneo Orangutan - Survival Foundation or BOS.

0:16:25 > 0:16:28- Samboja Lodge - was established in 2006...

0:16:28 > 0:16:33- ..when BOS planted over - 500,000 trees in 1,000 hectares...

0:16:34 > 0:16:37- ..to create a natural - training centre for the orangutans.

0:16:38 > 0:16:43- Today, over 212 orangutans - live in Samboja Lodge.

0:16:47 > 0:16:49- Most of the orangutans in Samboja...

0:16:50 > 0:16:54- ..were either given to the lodge - by people keeping them as pets...

0:16:55 > 0:16:57- ..or taken - by the forestry commission...

0:16:58 > 0:17:00- ..from people who were keeping them.

0:17:01 > 0:17:07- I'm not going to touch one of - the orangutans - we're not allowed.

0:17:07 > 0:17:12- They're wild animals - and they belong in the wilderness.

0:17:12 > 0:17:15- They are kept here - and taught four steps...

0:17:16 > 0:17:20- ..before they're ready - to return to the forests.

0:17:20 > 0:17:23- I'm going to see - three of those steps.

0:17:27 > 0:17:32- I had to wear the mask in case I'd - pass a disease on to the orangutans.

0:17:32 > 0:17:36- That's not as stupid as it sounds. - 97% of our DNA...

0:17:37 > 0:17:39- ..matches the DNA of the orangutans.

0:17:39 > 0:17:42- Yes, the similarity is obvious!

0:17:44 > 0:17:48- He doesn't have to wear a mask - because they're used to him.

0:17:49 > 0:17:54- After reaching Samboja, the - orangutans are kept in quarantine.

0:17:54 > 0:17:58- They have often caught infectious - diseases such as hepatitis.

0:17:58 > 0:18:00- They are kept apart - from other animals.

0:18:01 > 0:18:05- When they're free of infection, - they're moved to the social cages...

0:18:06 > 0:18:09- ..where they're taught - how to feed themselves...

0:18:09 > 0:18:13- ..mix with other orangutans - and sharpen their teeth.

0:18:14 > 0:18:17- The younger orangutans - which arrive here...

0:18:17 > 0:18:20- ..go through an additional process.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22- They don't know - how to be orangutans.

0:18:23 > 0:18:25- They have no mothers to teach them.

0:18:25 > 0:18:28- They are taken to climbing schools - by their keepers...

0:18:29 > 0:18:33- ..people who more-or-less - become surrogate mothers to them.

0:18:33 > 0:18:38- They help them learn - how to climb trees...

0:18:38 > 0:18:42- ..even though they only want - a little cwtsh some of the time!

0:18:43 > 0:18:46- As they grow, - they gain in confidence...

0:18:46 > 0:18:48- ..and climb like... monkeys!

0:18:51 > 0:18:53- There you go!

0:18:53 > 0:18:57- I'm not sure if he'll be able - to catch you.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00- Every now and then they fall.

0:19:01 > 0:19:04- They learn from their mistakes.

0:19:08 > 0:19:13- We release the orangutans when - they have completed the four steps.

0:19:13 > 0:19:18- Forests are becoming scarce - because of deforestation.

0:19:18 > 0:19:22- It's very difficult - to find a home for them all.

0:19:25 > 0:19:29- It's not hard to befriend an - orangutan - that's half the problem.

0:19:29 > 0:19:33- The other half - is a shortage of places to live.

0:19:33 > 0:19:38- The work they do here is very - important. I wish them all the best.

0:19:39 > 0:19:43- On we go, all the way to - the western coast of Kalimantan...

0:19:43 > 0:19:47- ..to Pontianak, - the capital of west Kalimantan.

0:19:49 > 0:19:51- Pontianak is on the banks...

0:19:51 > 0:19:54- ..of the longest river in Indonesia, - the Kapuas.

0:19:55 > 0:19:58- Life revolves around the river here.

0:20:04 > 0:20:08- I'm going on a journey - down the river...

0:20:08 > 0:20:11- ..to see the city - at the break of dawn.

0:20:11 > 0:20:15- Some of the people - live on the river here...

0:20:15 > 0:20:18- ..which can be very handy!

0:20:23 > 0:20:27- It's well worth travelling across - the river to the open-air market.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31- It's a busy place - and sells all kinds of fish.

0:20:31 > 0:20:35- Some dried, like these, - and some fresh from the river.

0:20:35 > 0:20:38- The market attracts - all kinds of fish lovers.

0:20:42 > 0:20:44- The city centre is far more modern.

0:20:45 > 0:20:49- It's all industry and traffic - and very busy.

0:20:49 > 0:20:53- This is one - of the main educational centres.

0:20:53 > 0:20:56- You'll find - thousands of students here.

0:20:57 > 0:21:01- Everyone who lives on the equator - wants to commemorate that fact.

0:21:02 > 0:21:07- That column behind me is meant to - signify the location of the equator.

0:21:07 > 0:21:11- But my GPS says it's here. - There are two white lines here...

0:21:11 > 0:21:13- ..to signify - the path of the equator.

0:21:14 > 0:21:16- They decided to build - the column over there instead!

0:21:17 > 0:21:19- Why not?

0:21:21 > 0:21:25- Pontianak is the perfect place - for growing a special kind of plant.

0:21:25 > 0:21:30- It's well known for its ability - to cure all sorts of illnesses.

0:21:30 > 0:21:32- Pontianak is on the equator.

0:21:33 > 0:21:37- The weather and soil - are perfect for growing aloe vera.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39- The soil's wet here!

0:21:40 > 0:21:43- To be honest, - I grow aloe vera in my garden...

0:21:43 > 0:21:46- ..but I have to bring it in - during the winter.

0:21:46 > 0:21:49- I have to admit, - the quality is far better here.

0:21:51 > 0:21:54- Aloe vera is such an useful plant.

0:21:54 > 0:21:58- It's used to treat illnesses - from skin problems to piles!

0:21:58 > 0:22:02- A local family has started - a factory in their home.

0:22:03 > 0:22:07- It was by now pouring with rain - and I was glad to be going inside.

0:22:11 > 0:22:13- Here are the leaves, - ready to be treated.

0:22:14 > 0:22:17- Everyone has a role to play - in the family business.

0:22:18 > 0:22:21- The task of slicing the leaves - is done by Supin, the son.

0:22:21 > 0:22:26- Inside, you'll find a clear jelly - which is full of goodness.

0:22:26 > 0:22:30- This is used to treat sunburn, - grazes, eczema and so on.

0:22:30 > 0:22:33- You can use every part of the plant.

0:22:33 > 0:22:36- Today, they're concentrating - on the jelly.

0:22:37 > 0:22:40- The aloe vera is mixed - with sugar and seaweed...

0:22:40 > 0:22:43- ..and boiled for two hours.

0:22:43 > 0:22:47- It smells like rice pudding - or semolina.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56- He pours it into there.

0:22:57 > 0:22:59- It's then cooled...

0:23:00 > 0:23:03- ..for twelve hours - before being sliced up into sweets.

0:23:04 > 0:23:09- After being cooked - and sliced up like chips...

0:23:10 > 0:23:13- ..it's wrapped up in paper.

0:23:13 > 0:23:16- Today, - I'm placing them in this packet.

0:23:17 > 0:23:21- When the packets are full, - they're placed in this box.

0:23:21 > 0:23:23- Then we buy them and eat them...

0:23:23 > 0:23:28- ..because they're good - for our immune system and skin.

0:23:28 > 0:23:30- I'm going to buy a packet.

0:23:30 > 0:23:33- I bought four packets in the end - and some tea...

0:23:34 > 0:23:39- ..to remember the beauty - of Kalimantan over a cuppa.

0:23:41 > 0:23:44- My time in Kalimantan is over.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48- I've only seen a little - of this incredible country.

0:23:48 > 0:23:50- There's so much more - to see and do...

0:23:51 > 0:23:53- ..but I have to continue - on my journey.

0:23:53 > 0:23:58- I'll never forget meeting the Dayaks - and the orangutans.

0:23:58 > 0:24:02- For now, terima kasih, Kalimantan...

0:24:02 > 0:24:04- ..and sampai jumpa!

0:24:09 > 0:24:14- Next week, people sticking skewers - where they shouldn't in Singapore.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18- And I'll also be falling in love - with elephants in Sumatra.

0:24:24 > 0:24:26- S4/C Subtitles by Simian 04

0:24:26 > 0:24:27- .