0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:03- I've stood at the top - and the bottom of the world.
0:00:03 > 0:00:07- Right now, I'm standing - in the middle of the world.
0:00:07 > 0:00:12- This sun dial runs along - the zero-degree latitude line.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15- The sun is passing over my head - towards the west...
0:00:15 > 0:00:17- ..and I'll soon be following it.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22- Welcome to Ar y Lein - the Equator!
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888
0:00:37 > 0:00:39- 888
0:00:46 > 0:00:51- "OK, Bethan," they said, "You've - travelled around the world twice...
0:00:51 > 0:00:53- .."where do you fancy going next?"
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- "Well, let's follow - the equator around the world!"
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- The halfway line at the Macapa - Stadium runs along the equator.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- It doesn't go far - but if it went all the way...
0:01:05 > 0:01:08- ..it would stretch - for 25,000 miles...
0:01:08 > 0:01:13- ..crossing South America, - Indonesia and Africa.
0:01:13 > 0:01:15- This is my biggest challenge so far.
0:01:16 > 0:01:18- I will explore - the Amazonian jungle...
0:01:18 > 0:01:21- ..the Ecuadorian mountains, - the Galapagos Islands...
0:01:22 > 0:01:24- ..and travel through Borneo - and Sumatra.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28- Then I'll reach Africa - - Kenya and Uganda in the east...
0:01:28 > 0:01:31- ..and Gabon and Sao Tome - in the west.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- I'm not allowed to visit - every country - for my own safety!
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- The starting point is Belem - in Brazil.
0:01:47 > 0:01:49- Brazil has a huge population - - 188 million...
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- ..one of the largest populations - in the world.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57- Almost everyone works along the - coast which stretches for 7,000kms.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- Belem is the largest port - along the Amazon.
0:02:03 > 0:02:08- It's convenient for fish, naturally, - and the wood industry.
0:02:10 > 0:02:12- Every river is a trickle - at its source.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16- It's hard to think that the Amazon - is so small at its source...
0:02:16 > 0:02:18- ..high up in the rainforests.
0:02:18 > 0:02:24- Here, at the docks in Belem, they - deal in wood from the rainforests.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- They also export fish, fruit, - vegetables and Brazil nuts!
0:02:29 > 0:02:33- I know I'm stupid, but I'd never - made the connection until now.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- Of course they come from Brazil!
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- Just to prove the point...
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- They taste even better - when they're fresh.
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- There were fruits of every shape, - size and colour at Belem Market.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51- Heaven for a fruitaholic like me.
0:02:52 > 0:02:57- They were also rather large - have - you ever seen avocados this big?
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- All sorts of different plants - grow along the Amazon.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- Some are used to cure - all kinds of ailments.
0:03:04 > 0:03:09- There are dozens of stands like this - selling different remedies.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- There are bottles - just for women like me!
0:03:14 > 0:03:16- I thought I understood - what this was.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- Pega Nao Me Larga - - to me, it looks like a medicine...
0:03:21 > 0:03:23- ..that will stop me getting fat.
0:03:23 > 0:03:25- But it's used to attract men!
0:03:25 > 0:03:28- That could come in very handy! - This one's even better.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32- I'd be irresistible!
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- Just one glass of that! - And to help you last the pace...!
0:03:44 > 0:03:46- This is the best time - to be in Belem.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- They are preparing - for a religious festival...
0:03:50 > 0:03:53- ..to celebrate the life - of Nossa Senhora de Nazare...
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- ..Mary, Mother of Jesus. - Tomorrow is a big day!
0:04:00 > 0:04:06- It's 6.00am and 30,000 people - have congregated in the square.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10- Brazil is the largest - Catholic country in the world.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13- They're expecting two million people - in Belem today.
0:04:13 > 0:04:18- Some will have saved money for the - entire year to pay for their trip.
0:04:18 > 0:04:23- This is a time when the rich and - the poor join together to celebrate.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- The silence was amazing. Their - respect and their faith touched me.
0:04:29 > 0:04:33- This is what - they've all come to see.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- This little statue - of Nossa Senhora de Nazare.
0:04:36 > 0:04:39- People will march for 10kms, - most barefoot...
0:04:39 > 0:04:43- ..in the hope of touching it - or seeing it close up.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- These men have the important task - of pulling the carriage...
0:04:49 > 0:04:51- ..that carries it around the city.
0:04:51 > 0:04:56- As the temperature rises, - the crowd becomes more excited.
0:04:57 > 0:05:03- Today is the main day but the - celebrations last for a fortnight.
0:05:05 > 0:05:10- It lasts a fortnight because that's - when the crowds congregate again...
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- ..to take the statue - of Nossa Senhora de Nazare...
0:05:14 > 0:05:17- ..back to the cathedral. - Any excuse for a party!
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- It's mid-morning.
0:05:20 > 0:05:25- In the sweltering heat, - the crowds are starting to suffer.
0:05:26 > 0:05:30- Gallons of water are shared out - and sprayed over the crowd.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- It's still too hot for some.
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- It's a very social festival.
0:05:46 > 0:05:50- You'd expect people to be shattered - after the procession...
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- ..but most go home for a traditional - feast with their families.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- I've been invited to spend - an evening with a local family.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01- I'm looking forward - to finally sitting down.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- I also want to know why so many - people are excited about a statue.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- Clara is the editor - of a local newspaper.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14- She never joins the crowds. - She stays home with her family...
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- ..to prepare a feast similar - to what slaves ate years ago.
0:06:24 > 0:06:26- It has a meaty taste.
0:06:27 > 0:06:28- That's not surprising.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- It's been simmering for seven days - in a pan of cheap pig meat.
0:06:33 > 0:06:36- Slaves could only afford cheap meat.
0:06:40 > 0:06:44- No delicioso. Interestante.
0:06:45 > 0:06:47- Cute!
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- I also met the Grandfather.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- For some reason, - he wanted to sing to me.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- I wasn't sure - what he was trying to do next.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- I think he said - he was singing from the heart.
0:07:20 > 0:07:25- I wanted to know why people - were so excited about the festival.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- Clara explained to me that this - was the one day of the year...
0:07:29 > 0:07:31- ..when they could worship - the Mother of Christ.
0:07:32 > 0:07:37- They fast and walk barefoot - but they believe...
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- ..it will all be worth it - when they reach heaven.
0:07:41 > 0:07:45- Clara became emotional - when she was just talking about it.
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- CLARA SPEAKS PORTUGUESE
0:08:04 > 0:08:09- The festival and Clara's words were - fresh in my mind the following day.
0:08:09 > 0:08:14- I don't think I'll ever understand - the appeal of such statues.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- But if it brings people together, - it's great.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- Do I look tired? I'm not surprised.
0:08:22 > 0:08:27- We're up at 4.30am for the third - or fourth time this week.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- I had to catch the early ferry - to Ilha do Marajo...
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- ..an island the size of Switzerland - at the mouth of the Amazon...
0:08:36 > 0:08:39- ..about three or four hours - from Belem.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- They tell me that there are - more bikes than cars on the island.
0:08:43 > 0:08:47- The best way to travel, - apparently, is by water buffalo.
0:08:52 > 0:08:57- Agriculture and fishing are - the main industries of the island.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Water buffalos are important - for cheese, meat and leather.
0:09:02 > 0:09:07- There are four times more buffalos - than people and bikes here.
0:09:07 > 0:09:09- Even the local police use them.
0:09:13 > 0:09:18- There's a procession here today - - a chance to ride the buffalos...
0:09:19 > 0:09:23- ..and show why they're so suitable - for such a wet landscape.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- Even when they grow old and die, - there's an use for them.
0:09:37 > 0:09:40- People can make all sorts of things - from buffalo hide.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43- They don't waste a thing.
0:09:45 > 0:09:49- I don't have to tell you - what these are.
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- But they make wonderful - pencil cases and shoulder bags.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- The buffalos have only been here - since the 1920s.
0:10:07 > 0:10:12- They escaped from a stricken ship - and swam ashore.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15- They're not wild - like African buffalos.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- They're very easy to tame.
0:10:23 > 0:10:28- Give them a few mangoes and - they'll be eating out of your hand.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- This is Eva. - She owns a 6,600-hectare ranch.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35- Her father - was one of the first people...
0:10:35 > 0:10:38- ..to farm buffalos on the island.
0:10:38 > 0:10:42- As you may have noticed, - my Portuguese isn't great...
0:10:43 > 0:10:46- ..but Eva could speak French.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- Vous le traitez comme un enfant. - Comme un enfant, comme un bebe.
0:10:50 > 0:10:55- Oui, oui, j'ai dit "Oh, mon bebe, - s'il vous plait, viens avec maman."
0:10:55 > 0:11:00- Eva's method of handling buffalos - differed from the police's methods.
0:11:00 > 0:11:04- She said it was OK for me to touch - the buffalos but not their horns.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- If you touch them, - it means you're looking for a fight.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- I asked her if she had a name - for the buffalo.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- Hambo? Oh, Rambo!
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- Hi, Rambo!
0:11:21 > 0:11:23- I hope he doesn't act like Rambo!
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- She offered me a ride on his back...
0:11:27 > 0:11:29- ..so I couldn't refuse.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34- Eva assured me that even her young - daughter was safe on a buffalo.
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- All I had to do was relax!
0:11:51 > 0:11:53- I'm going to ride a buffalo.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- I've never ridden a buffalo before.
0:12:05 > 0:12:06- Obrigado!
0:12:06 > 0:12:09- Don't tell - the Welsh Black Society...
0:12:09 > 0:12:12- ..but buffalo meat - is better than beef.
0:12:12 > 0:12:16- It contains more protein, - more minerals...
0:12:16 > 0:12:19- ..less fat and less cholesterol.
0:12:20 > 0:12:21- Vamos.
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- You might see me riding a buffalo - at Llanelwedd next year!
0:12:27 > 0:12:29- I'll see you after the break!
0:12:31 > 0:12:31- .
0:12:34 > 0:12:34- 888
0:12:34 > 0:12:36- 888- - 888
0:12:43 > 0:12:47- I've travelled over 1,000 miles - from Ilha do Marajo to Manaus...
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- ..in the middle of the Amazonian - jungle. Look what I've found!
0:12:52 > 0:12:54- Teatro Amazonas Opera House - was built in 1896.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58- It's testimony - to the wealth that was here...
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- ..during the heyday - of the rubber industry.
0:13:03 > 0:13:07- The income from rubber - turned this insignificant port...
0:13:08 > 0:13:09- ..into a splendid city.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14- It was such a splendid period that - the wealthy sent their shirts...
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- ..to London to be washed and ironed.
0:13:17 > 0:13:22- When they decided to build an opera - house, only the best would do.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24- The curtains came from Paris...
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- ..the ironwork from Scotland - and the marble from Italy.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- The only thing - that came from Brazil was the wood.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34- And that was sent to Europe - to be carved.
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- Yes, the sun could blind you. - It's strong around the Amazon.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- This is the journey so far.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- Manaus is on the banks - of the River Negro...
0:14:01 > 0:14:04- ..one of the tributaries - of the Amazon.
0:14:04 > 0:14:09- This is the perfect place to relax - before venturing into the jungle.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15- The prosperous days of the - rubber industry have disappeared.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19- Since Manaus is so close to the - jungle, it attracts many tourists.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- There are a number - of other industries here...
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- ..such as mobile phone - and electronic factories.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28- The city has a population - of two million people...
0:14:28 > 0:14:30- ..but there is - a lot of poverty here.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- A third of Brazil's population - live in poverty.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38- Every city has a favela - - a slum area.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- The Manaus favela - has been built on stilts.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- It looked like an awful place - from the main road.
0:14:47 > 0:14:50- In the middle of the favela, - a sight that rather surprised me.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- Every home had electricity - and running water...
0:14:54 > 0:14:59- ..and the families lived happily - in close-knit communities.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- The authorities - want to demolish the favelas...
0:15:04 > 0:15:06- ..which could break up - these communities.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- In such a macho city, - women are victims of abuse.
0:15:14 > 0:15:17- One female is allegedly abused - every 15 seconds.
0:15:17 > 0:15:22- There are 250 special police centres - for women in Brazil.
0:15:26 > 0:15:28- This is Maria Rosinita - Dos Reis Silva.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- She heads the police centre - in this part of Manaus.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35- When women make a complaint, - the men are arrested...
0:15:35 > 0:15:37- ..and questioned in these rooms.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- It used to be difficult - to encourage women to complain...
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- ..but they deal with around - 1,000 incidents every month now.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- Monday is always the busiest day, - after a weekend on the beer.
0:15:54 > 0:15:57- Alcohol is a huge part - of the problem.
0:15:57 > 0:16:02- Maria said that the centre - has definitely made a difference.
0:16:03 > 0:16:08- This is Wander, one of the women - who received help at the centre.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11- Her husband was a loving man - when he was sober.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- When he drank, he would turn on her.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19- I asked her if he ever hit her.
0:16:20 > 0:16:22- "No," she replied, "Never."
0:16:22 > 0:16:25- He would abuse her - verbally and emotionally.
0:16:25 > 0:16:30- She could have retaliated - had the abuse been physical...
0:16:31 > 0:16:33- ..but the mental torture - shattered her.
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- Living with him was unbearable.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42- When he was detained at the police - centre for a second time...
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- ..she left him, - the house, everything.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- In the end, he left her alone - and she carried on with her life.
0:16:50 > 0:16:52- Today, she works in a hospital.
0:16:53 > 0:16:57- She's also a law student and helps - other women who have been abused.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00- And she's not looking - for another husband!
0:17:00 > 0:17:04- She's realised that it's not - the most important thing in life.
0:17:04 > 0:17:08- She's a wonderful woman. We'll see - her necklace later in the series.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- She insisted on giving it to me. - I'm not sure why.
0:17:12 > 0:17:17- It must have been a relief for her - to recount her story to a stranger.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32- It was time to say goodbye - to Manaus and head for the jungle.
0:17:32 > 0:17:37- The temperature was rising - and the humidity was overwhelming.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40- Travelling by boat - was a pleasant experience.
0:17:40 > 0:17:46- Thankfully, the water in the - Negro is too acidic for mosquitoes.
0:17:59 > 0:18:03- When the sun had set, - I was looking forward to my bed.
0:18:03 > 0:18:08- Alas, no. A man named Abdias wanted - to take me out in another boat...
0:18:08 > 0:18:11- ..to search for Caymans - - a type of crocodile.
0:18:11 > 0:18:15- Abdias is his real name - but everyone calls him Rambo.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19- Yes - another one! Stallone - must be popular around here.
0:18:21 > 0:18:26- I was expecting a quiet, romantic - journey but it wasn't to be.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31- There were hundreds - of Caymans present...
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- ..but Rambo spotted one - that was larger than the others.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- He wanted to follow it!
0:18:44 > 0:18:47- I didn't expect to chase - a Cayman in the dead of night...
0:18:47 > 0:18:50- ..but I followed obediently.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- It's still there. - I can hear it hissing.
0:18:54 > 0:18:59- It'll come out in a moment and - when it does, we're going that way!
0:19:00 > 0:19:05- They're rather strong - and rather dangerous!
0:19:13 > 0:19:15- Can I touch its stomach?
0:19:21 > 0:19:22- It's beautiful.
0:19:23 > 0:19:25- It is similar to a duck.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- Oh, yeah. Similar to a duck.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- You're not that similar to a duck!
0:19:36 > 0:19:40- This one isn't large - but some can grow to seven metres.
0:19:41 > 0:19:43- They have around 80 teeth...
0:19:43 > 0:19:48- ..but no tongue, which is why they - can't eat anything in the river.
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- They have to drag their food - to the riverbank before eating it.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- They're going to try - and determine its sex now.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- We're now seeing a Cayman's - female sexual organs.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- And she's pregnant. - She has around 40 eggs inside her.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11- She may be small - but she's dangerous.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- The most dangerous - part is releasing her!
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- I'm up early to meet a community - of Indians called Sahu Ape.
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- This is how they alert the village - that we're on our way.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- In case they didn't hear - the first time...
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- I'm looking forward to this. - The Sahu Ape retain old traditions.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47- It's a privilege to see them - living so close to nature.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- After following this man - for half a mile into the jungle...
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- ..we met a very important lady.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01- This is the local chemist.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- She's the local doctor, - in some ways.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07- There are medicines - of all kinds here...
0:21:07 > 0:21:10- ..made from the trees and animals.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12- Any illness, you can cure it here.
0:21:14 > 0:21:15- Wow!
0:21:16 > 0:21:19- Dolphin.
0:21:19 > 0:21:24- I was offered some toucan beak tea - to improve my singing voice!
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- I regret not accepting - the invitation.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- A quarter - of the world's medicines...
0:21:34 > 0:21:37- ..come from different - Brazilian trees and plants.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- It is hoped that a cure for cancer - and Aids can be found here.
0:21:42 > 0:21:48- Some of the medicines were enough - to blow your head to kingdom come!
0:21:51 > 0:21:54- I have no idea what it was for.
0:22:01 > 0:22:05- I was led through the village - to the village hall.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- I had no idea what to expect - but I accepted a drink as part...
0:22:09 > 0:22:14- ..of the welcoming ceremony without - really knowing what was in it.
0:22:18 > 0:22:24- They usually fill these gloves with - ants to prove their masculinity.
0:22:24 > 0:22:28- Today, they were empty as - the villagers showed us a dance...
0:22:29 > 0:22:31- ..which was part of their tradition.
0:22:42 > 0:22:44- As usual, I had to join in.
0:22:45 > 0:22:48- At least it was easier - than flamenco.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- As I enjoyed the unique experience - of the dance...
0:22:53 > 0:22:58- ..some more tourists arrived - and the show started all over again.
0:22:58 > 0:23:03- I soon realised that they - are part of a government plan.
0:23:03 > 0:23:06- They live in the jungle - and retain their traditions...
0:23:06 > 0:23:10- ..as long as they - entertain tourists twice a week.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14- I've enjoyed this part - of the journey very much...
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- ..apart from one thing!
0:23:16 > 0:23:19- I've sweated pints - - it's so hot here.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22- I've had to change my knickers - twice a day...
0:23:22 > 0:23:25- ..and I've had to blow-dry my bras!
0:23:25 > 0:23:28- The people here are lovely, though.
0:23:28 > 0:23:31- The people of Ilha do Marajo, - the buffalos...
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- ..and reaching the jungle - to meet these people...
0:23:34 > 0:23:37- ..but there are - a lot of tourists here.
0:23:37 > 0:23:42- You think this is a real village - but there are tourists all around.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45- Without us, though, - they couldn't afford to live here...
0:23:46 > 0:23:49- ..so I'm happy here - and happy with the situation.
0:23:49 > 0:23:53- A brilliant start to Ar y Lein - as we follow the equator.
0:23:53 > 0:23:57- From me and the people - of Seteri Mao...
0:23:57 > 0:23:59- ..Goodbye!
0:24:04 > 0:24:08- Next week, I'll be in Ecuador - and the Galapagos Islands.
0:24:08 > 0:24:12- I'll be going back to school, - meeting gigantic tortoises...
0:24:13 > 0:24:15- ..and swimming with penguins.
0:24:19 > 0:24:21- S4/C Subtitles by Simian 04
0:24:21 > 0:24:21- .