0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888
0:00:04 > 0:00:06- It's true!
0:00:06 > 0:00:10- Water goes straight down - the plug hole on the equator!
0:00:10 > 0:00:14- I'm in Ecuador - and I'm on the equator.
0:00:15 > 0:00:17- Welcome to Ar y Lein!
0:00:18 > 0:00:20- 888
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- 888
0:00:32 > 0:00:34- 888
0:00:38 > 0:00:40- 888
0:00:43 > 0:00:47- I'm following another line - around the world.
0:00:47 > 0:00:49- It's brought me - to an elevated place...
0:00:50 > 0:00:52- ..Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56- Quito is 2,850 metres - above sea level.
0:00:58 > 0:01:02- It's three times higher - than the summit of Snowdon.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- And yes, it is difficult to walk - and breathe at the same time.
0:01:09 > 0:01:11- I'm following the equator westwards.
0:01:11 > 0:01:15- After starting my journey - in South America...
0:01:15 > 0:01:19- ..I'll be heading for the - Indonesian islands and Africa.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24- After sweating conkers on - the Amazon, I've reached Ecuador...
0:01:24 > 0:01:26- ..a country named after the equator.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- I'll also be visiting - the Galapagos Islands...
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- ..but my first stop is Quito.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- Quito is a huge city - which stretches along this valley.
0:01:39 > 0:01:41- In reality, it's two cities.
0:01:41 > 0:01:45- The modern new town with its - trendy eateries and skyscrapers...
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- ..and the rather different - old town...
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- ..where narrow streets - wind past grand churches...
0:01:52 > 0:01:54- ..and ancient monasteries.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57- It's a beautiful place...
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- ..and one - of UNESCO's World Heritage Centres.
0:02:02 > 0:02:06- Only 25% of the population - are pure Amerindians.
0:02:07 > 0:02:09- Most Ecuadorians are Mestizos...
0:02:10 > 0:02:15- ..a mixture of the native population - and 17th century Spanish immigrants.
0:02:16 > 0:02:18- Quito is an ancient city.
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- The Incas were here until - the Spaniards arrived in 1526.
0:02:22 > 0:02:26- Instead of allowing the Spaniards - to take over their city...
0:02:27 > 0:02:29- ..the Incas decided to demolish it.
0:02:29 > 0:02:34- These buildings have been built - on the ruins of the ancient city.
0:02:34 > 0:02:39- Today, exactly 472 years - since the Spaniards...
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..started rebuilding Quito...
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- ..they're having - a humdinger of a celebration.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50- This is a very noisy festival.
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- People travel on the back - of lorries, or chivas.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- And they drink - as if there's no tomorrow!
0:02:57 > 0:03:02- This is canelazo which is packed - with cinnamon, sugar and alcohol.
0:03:02 > 0:03:05- My head was spinning straightaway.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- You have to be drunk - to cope with all the noise.
0:03:15 > 0:03:16- Or am I getting old?
0:03:24 > 0:03:27- Then the heavens opened - but that didn't dampen spirits.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- The crowd had brought - their raincoats just in case.
0:03:32 > 0:03:35- They'd feel at home in Wales!
0:03:49 > 0:03:51- The day is drawing to a close...
0:03:52 > 0:03:56- ..but the party will continue - into the early hours.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01- Unfortunately, it's bedtime for me. - I'll be up at dawn tomorrow.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13- Most of last night's partygoers - are asleep or nursing a hangover.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- But I'm up.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17- We need to allow time...
0:04:17 > 0:04:20- ..to travel - along Ecuador's winding roads.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- The Andes split Ecuador - into three parts.
0:04:37 > 0:04:40- The Amazonian jungle to the east, - the coastal lowlands to the west...
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- ..and these wonderful highlands - in the middle.
0:04:55 > 0:04:58- This is Mitad del Mondo, - the middle of the world.
0:04:59 > 0:05:04- This building marks the point - where the equator passes through.
0:05:04 > 0:05:07- Ecuador have a better claim - on the line than anyone else.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- The country shares its name - with the equator...
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- ..and this is where - they first discovered the line.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- Here's another tourist attraction - - an interesting museo...
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- ..which confirms - theories about the equator.
0:05:24 > 0:05:25- Is it all a con?
0:05:26 > 0:05:30- The plug had to be pulled slowly - for the water to go straight down.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32- But at least it was fun.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- My favourite was the egg on a nail!
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- On the equator, - many curious things happen.
0:05:39 > 0:05:44- This egg is meant to balance - on top of this nail...
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- ..through the power of gravity - and magnetism.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52- When we're on the equator, the - pressure is equal on both sides.
0:05:52 > 0:05:55- This is supposed to be easy - but I can't do it!
0:05:57 > 0:06:02- I did succeed when the camera - had been switched off. Honestly!
0:06:05 > 0:06:09- I'm on my way to Otavalo, an hour's - journey north of the equator.
0:06:09 > 0:06:12- The Pan-American Highway...
0:06:12 > 0:06:17- ..which connects South America - to Alaska, is 30,000 miles long.
0:06:19 > 0:06:22- I've always been fascinated - by small villages.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Life is far more relaxed.
0:06:25 > 0:06:30- It's far easier to meet people - and learn about their way of life.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- I stopped in San Juan de Iluman - on the way.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- I've been invited - to the local primary school.
0:06:41 > 0:06:46- I love school uniform - that's the same for boys and girls.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- All the children have long hair...
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- ..so you have to focus - on their faces.
0:06:52 > 0:06:55- That's a girl - - she runs like a girl!
0:06:58 > 0:07:03- These are also girls - apart - from the one brandishing a gun!
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- That's a boy. So is that one.
0:07:06 > 0:07:08- And those.
0:07:08 > 0:07:12- It's nice to see traditional games - played instead of Playstations.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- I asked how many languages - they could speak.
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- Spanish, naturally, - and Quichua, the native language.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- I asked them to say hello - in Quichua.
0:07:32 > 0:07:34- THEY SAY HELLO IN QUICHUA
0:07:44 > 0:07:46- SHE EXPLAINS - HOW TO SAY HELLO IN WELSH
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- Su'mai? Su'mai?
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- SHE EXPLAINS HOW TO REPLY
0:07:58 > 0:07:59- Su'mai?
0:07:59 > 0:08:01- Su'mai?- - Da iawn!
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- I wanted to know - how to ask a person's name.
0:08:23 > 0:08:26- Yes, they have long names - in Ecuador.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- The next question - - how many spoke Quichua at home?
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- It appears that Quichua is in the - same position as Welsh used to be.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- On the streets and in the home, - they speak Quichua.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50- In school, they speak Spanish.
0:08:50 > 0:08:54- There are textbooks in Quichua - but there aren't any here.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- It's not an official language - but I like it.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05- The children of Ecuador taught me - more than I could ever teach them.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- Here's another aspect - of the area's traditions.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- The Quichua Indians - from Otavalo were weaving...
0:09:12 > 0:09:14- ..before the arrival of the Incas.
0:09:14 > 0:09:17- There's over 500 years - of history here.
0:09:17 > 0:09:22- This husband and wife partnership - weave in the traditional way.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25- Most weavers now use machines.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- It's hard for these two to compete.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- But it's worth paying - for a product that's handmade.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36- A lot of hard work - goes into making these items.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- It takes four days for these two - to make a small mat.
0:09:40 > 0:09:45- They also use traditional methods - to dye the wool.
0:09:45 > 0:09:49- They work hard but at least - they're independent now.
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- At one time, they had to weave - for next to nothing.
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- People have been buying and selling - at Otavalo market for centuries.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- It's renowned around the world.
0:10:05 > 0:10:07- If you visit Ecuador, - you must visit this market.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12- People from Otavalo - are called Otavalinos.
0:10:13 > 0:10:16- They are renowned - for being the wealthiest...
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- ..native population in Ecuador.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:10:21 > 0:10:23- They're hard workers...
0:10:23 > 0:10:25- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:10:31 > 0:10:33- Un moment, por favor.
0:10:33 > 0:10:37- They talk a lot and they work hard!
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- They are also creative and strong.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- I'm going to buy a few cushions - from this gentleman.
0:10:47 > 0:10:49- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:10:50 > 0:10:53- That was the end of the buying - and selling for today.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56- They'll all be back - at the break of dawn.
0:10:57 > 0:10:58- I said they were strong!
0:11:05 > 0:11:10- That night, I stayed - in a lovely hotel - a hacienda...
0:11:10 > 0:11:12- ..or old-fashioned farmhouse.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- A local band entertained the guests.
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- The haciendas are popular - with tourists.
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- Forget your 5-star hotels - packed with mod cons.
0:11:22 > 0:11:26- Give me atmosphere and heritage - any day of the week.
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- These two were from Wales.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- Who needs central heating - when you have a fire like this?
0:11:40 > 0:11:44- I was tired but I was more - than happy to update my diary.
0:11:45 > 0:11:46- I couldn't stay up too late...
0:11:47 > 0:11:51- ..because we had to head for the - Galapagos Islands in the morning.
0:11:55 > 0:11:56- .
0:11:59 > 0:11:59- 888
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- 888- - 888
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- I've left the mainland - and flown 650 miles west.
0:12:17 > 0:12:20- These are the Galapagos Islands.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23- In this stunning location...
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- ..Charles Darwin - first started to ponder...
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- ..about the evolution of life - on earth.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46- I'd always thought that - only animals and birds lived here.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- I wasn't expecting to see - many people...
0:12:49 > 0:12:52- ..since only a few - visited the islands...
0:12:52 > 0:12:55- ..to allow the wildlife - to live in peace.
0:12:55 > 0:12:57- That's not the case at all.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00- There are 24 islands in all...
0:13:01 > 0:13:04- ..with five of them - inhabited by people.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- This is Puerto Ayora.
0:13:07 > 0:13:09- In 1973, only 60 people lived here.
0:13:10 > 0:13:12- Today, there are over 30,000.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- Half aren't supposed to be here!
0:13:16 > 0:13:20- Every year, the islands - welcome 100,000 visitors.
0:13:20 > 0:13:26- They fly here and then split up - to visit the 24 islands...
0:13:26 > 0:13:30- ..but they're not allowed - to visit all areas.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34- The National Park - has strict control of the islands.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- A lot of research - is carried out here...
0:13:37 > 0:13:42- ..all in the name of the Galapagos's - most famous visitor, Charles Darwin.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- The Charles Darwin Foundation - and the National Park...
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- ..were established in 1959, - 100 years after the publication...
0:13:52 > 0:13:54- ..of Darwin's Origin of Species.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58- The publication - angered religious people...
0:13:58 > 0:14:02- ..since it challenged - the story of Adam and Eve...
0:14:02 > 0:14:05- ..claiming - that every species had evolved.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08- Most of his research - was carried out here...
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- ..when he was only 26 years old.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15- Nowadays, the centre has over - 100 scientists and students...
0:14:15 > 0:14:18- ..keeping an eye on the wildlife.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- Their projects include...
0:14:21 > 0:14:24- ..rare species of tortoise, - both living and extinct.
0:14:24 > 0:14:29- Three species of the Galapagos - tortoises have become extinct.
0:14:29 > 0:14:34- When Lonesome George dies, - a fourth species will disappear.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38- When they found George - on Isla Pinta in 1971...
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- ..they didn't find another like him.
0:14:41 > 0:14:46- He now lives here, with some - similar female tortoises...
0:14:46 > 0:14:48- ..in the hope that they will mate.
0:14:48 > 0:14:52- Even though George - is still sexually active...
0:14:52 > 0:14:54- ..no eggs have been laid.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58- George is now at least 80 years old, - if not 90...
0:14:58 > 0:15:02- ..it's hard to determine - the true age of a tortoise...
0:15:03 > 0:15:05- ..but he'll have to carry on trying!
0:15:06 > 0:15:11- There are a number of different - species of finches on the islands.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- In 1835, Darwin noticed that - finches in the dry, desert areas...
0:15:16 > 0:15:20- ..differed from those - in the wet, forested regions.
0:15:20 > 0:15:22- They must have evolved.
0:15:23 > 0:15:28- When Darwin published his theories - in Origin of Species in 1859...
0:15:28 > 0:15:30- ..he upset many people.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32- People didn't want to believe...
0:15:32 > 0:15:35- ..that the stories in Genesis - weren't true.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39- Some remain sceptical today but - I doubt this one cares that much.
0:15:41 > 0:15:45- Alison is a researcher here. - She mostly works with the tortoises.
0:15:46 > 0:15:47- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- Part of her work - is to gather information...
0:15:59 > 0:16:05- ..to help the National Park care for - the various species of tortoises.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07- Particularly the rarest species.
0:16:08 > 0:16:13- With her co-workers, she monitors - the tortoises, counts the numbers...
0:16:14 > 0:16:17- ..determines whether - the numbers are falling...
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- ..and if they are, - does what she can to prevent this.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- It sounds like interesting work.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- I told her that I'd noticed...
0:16:35 > 0:16:38- ..that a few tortoises - had different shells.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- Alison said it was a step further - in the evolution process.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46- Tortoises living in wet areas - with plenty of undergrowth...
0:16:47 > 0:16:50- ..have developed shells - that are shaped like a bowl.
0:16:51 > 0:16:56- Tortoises living in drier areas that - have to work harder to find food...
0:16:56 > 0:17:00- ..have shells which look like - a horse's saddle.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- This allows them to reach the leaves - on the trees.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07- They have also developed - longer necks.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13- I told her it wasn't - very dry here any more!
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- It was raining quite heavily.
0:17:21 > 0:17:23- It's time for me to see more - of the wildlife...
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- ..that's made the islands so famous.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29- Fernando is originally from Ecuador.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- He owns a scuba and snorkelling - business here.
0:17:34 > 0:17:38- He's seen great changes - on the islands over the years.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45- Darwin wasn't the first - to discover the Galapagos.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50- Some people think the Incas - landed here in the 15th century.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54- The first man to officially - discover the islands in 1535...
0:17:55 > 0:17:59- ..was Fray Tomas de Berlanga, - the fourth Bishop of Panama.
0:17:59 > 0:18:03- He was lost so his men landed - on the island to find fresh water.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- When he returned to Spain, - he told the King that the islands...
0:18:08 > 0:18:13- ..had an abundance of wildlife - and giant galapagoses - tortoises.
0:18:18 > 0:18:20- All the animals here are docile.
0:18:20 > 0:18:23- You can get very close - to the seals...
0:18:24 > 0:18:25- ..birds and penguins.
0:18:26 > 0:18:30- I hadn't expected - to find penguins on the equator.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38- According to Fernando, the penguins - were originally from Antarctica.
0:18:39 > 0:18:41- They followed - the Humboldt current...
0:18:41 > 0:18:46- ..along the west coast of South - America before settling here.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- Hopefully, I can swim with one - of them. Look, he wants to play!
0:18:53 > 0:18:55- Oh, maybe not.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10- You won't find any penguins - further north than this.
0:19:10 > 0:19:14- Only Galapagos penguins - can live on the equator...
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- ..because the water is so cold here.
0:19:17 > 0:19:19- It's warm on land - but the water is cold.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- That's why I'm wearing a wetsuit.
0:19:22 > 0:19:26- The last time I saw penguins - was in Antarctica.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31- If I'd gone swimming with those, - I wouldn't be here now.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- I'm going to look for more penguins.
0:19:41 > 0:19:44- You can see all sorts - of underwater creatures here.
0:19:45 > 0:19:46- Here are some of them.
0:19:46 > 0:19:51- I didn't see any turtles - but there were plenty of fish.
0:19:53 > 0:19:59- I didn't see any rays and I'd - have done anything to see these.
0:19:59 > 0:20:01- Hammerhead sharks.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05- I saw a shark behind the cameraman - and I started pointing frantically.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07- He thought I was overacting!
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- This is what you'll see - when you return to dry land.
0:20:16 > 0:20:18- The Galapagos Islands - were created...
0:20:18 > 0:20:21- ..by millions of years - of volcanic eruptions.
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- The wildlife here has never - acquired a fear of humans.
0:20:27 > 0:20:29- The islands are far - from the mainland.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33- The plants and animals took time - to establish themselves here.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37- These were the first plants - on the islands.
0:20:37 > 0:20:41- The seeds were blown across from - the mainland or carried by birds.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- Insects then ate the plants.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48- Later, smaller reptiles - such as this lava lizard...
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- ..started eating the insects.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52- Hey, presto! A food chain.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03- Right, time for a geography lesson.
0:21:03 > 0:21:08- The world is covered with tectonic - plates - check the dictionary!
0:21:08 > 0:21:10- Here, you have some going one way...
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- ..and others - going in opposite directions.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17- When the plates move away - from each other...
0:21:17 > 0:21:19- ..volcanoes form and lava rises.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22- This is how these islands - were created.
0:21:22 > 0:21:26- The islands are moving east since - they're attached to the plates.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- Slowly, everything you see here - is moving that way.
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- If you're looking - for fresh volcanoes, travel west.
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- I wanted to see fresh lava, - so I travelled to Isla Isabela...
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- ..the largest - of the Galapagos Islands.
0:21:43 > 0:21:46- The island is right on the equator.
0:21:46 > 0:21:51- It's on a weak spot between plates - and still erupts every now and then.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- This is something - I'd never done before...
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- ..galloping up a volcano.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01- I had a small horse - but it didn't hold back.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04- And don't you dare mention - sports bras!
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- This is the Sierra Negro volcano.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- The summit is just under - 1,500 metres above sea level.
0:22:16 > 0:22:21- It erupted in October 2005 sending - plumes of smoke 20kms into the sky.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24- It left this void, or caldera, - in its wake.
0:22:28 > 0:22:30- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:22:37 > 0:22:40- This is Xavier, - my guide for the day.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- He regularly leads people - up to the summit.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46- The caldera is nine kilometres wide.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- This is the largest caldera - on the Galapagos Islands...
0:22:50 > 0:22:52- ..and the second largest - in the world.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56- This is the most active - volcanic area in the world...
0:22:56 > 0:23:00- ..but he assured me - that an eruption was unlikely today.
0:23:03 > 0:23:06- The horses could go no further.
0:23:06 > 0:23:10- The terrain was too rough - so we had to walk.
0:23:10 > 0:23:15- We reached areas of the volcano - which had been active recently.
0:23:15 > 0:23:17- Yes, this is all lava.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- Xavier drew my attention - to the various colours of lava.
0:23:28 > 0:23:30- Red lava is fresher - than black lava...
0:23:30 > 0:23:33- ..because it still - contains minerals.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38- I've never seen - such a stunning landscape.
0:23:39 > 0:23:43- I wouldn't say it was beautiful - but I'll never forget it.
0:23:43 > 0:23:45- Neither will my legs!
0:23:46 > 0:23:49- I have a problem now, - apart from the obvious.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52- I've enjoyed my time here.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54- So would you. You'd love it here.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58- If I say that, - thousands of you may want to visit.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- You might spoil the islands.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03- But there are strict rules here.
0:24:03 > 0:24:06- If you visited a country - with no rules...
0:24:06 > 0:24:10- ..you might end up spoiling it - more than you would here!
0:24:10 > 0:24:11- It's complicated.
0:24:12 > 0:24:15- I want the Galapagos Islands - to remain as they are.
0:24:16 > 0:24:17- They are estupendo!
0:24:24 > 0:24:28- Next week, I'll be in Borneo - participating in strange rituals...
0:24:29 > 0:24:34- ..and getting rather close - to crocodiles and orang-utans.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39- S4/C subtitles by Simian 04
0:24:39 > 0:24:40- .