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0:00:05 > 0:00:06- Good grief!
0:00:07 > 0:00:10- I've been to - Marrakech and Katmandu.
0:00:10 > 0:00:13- But I've never visited - a place like this.
0:00:13 > 0:00:16- By comparison, - Katmandu is a Sunday School trip.
0:00:17 > 0:00:18- Where am I?
0:00:18 > 0:00:20- Delhi, India.
0:00:21 > 0:00:23- This is where our journey begins.
0:00:23 > 0:00:26- No, thanks! - We're starting out from Delhi.
0:00:54 > 0:00:57- Oh! Fun and games!
0:00:58 > 0:00:59- I love this travelling.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04- We've missed three aeroplanes - in three days.
0:01:04 > 0:01:07- We finally decided to catch a train.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10- Here we are, in Delhi station.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13- I think it's this one.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- We're on the way to... - Where are we going?
0:01:16 > 0:01:20- Varanasi is the first step - of our journey to the Kumbh Mela.
0:01:21 > 0:01:22- Off we go.
0:01:27 > 0:01:29- Twelve hours later.
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- We, the sardines, - are starting to wake up.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36- Time for some breakfast.
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- But I don't fancy - their chicken madras.
0:01:46 > 0:01:48- What do you want, egg omelette?
0:01:48 > 0:01:50- Yes, please.
0:01:50 > 0:01:51- Omelette and bread?
0:01:51 > 0:01:52- Omelette and bread?- - Yes.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56- Kumbh Mela means 'The Pitcher Fair'.
0:01:56 > 0:02:00- According to mythology, Gods - fought devils for the Amrit Kumbh.
0:02:01 > 0:02:06- Its divine nectar could bestow - spiritual and material strength.
0:02:06 > 0:02:10- The god Vishnu succeeded. - As he escaped to Swarga, heaven...
0:02:10 > 0:02:13- ..four drops of nectar - fell to earth.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- The most sacred place was Allahabad, - on the banks of the Ganges...
0:02:17 > 0:02:19- ..where the most important - Kumbh Mela occurs.
0:02:20 > 0:02:23- The exact date depends on - the configuration of the planets.
0:02:23 > 0:02:25- But first, Varanasi.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30- India is an assault on the senses.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34- Colours, street smells, noise, - smoke, hustle and bustle.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- People, people and more people.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- India is fantastic, - in the true meaning of the word.
0:02:40 > 0:02:46- This is where they devised algebra, - trigonometry, calculus, chess...
0:02:46 > 0:02:48- ..and more importantly, curry!
0:02:50 > 0:02:52- There is poverty here, it's true.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- But everyone manages to earn a - a living. From being a messenger...
0:02:57 > 0:02:58- ..to selling fruit.
0:03:02 > 0:03:04- We all need a lunch hour.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- And there's showbiz in India, - like everywhere else.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19- Which reminds me, I used to go out - with a girl called Janet Davies.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- Sorry, Janet. That was very cruel.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- It's 4.30am.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- I've been told - we have to see this gate.
0:03:34 > 0:03:35- A gate.
0:03:36 > 0:03:38- At 4.30am? We have gates at home.
0:03:39 > 0:03:41- Come on.
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- These ghats are stairs - which lead down to the river.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52- In the cold early morning, - devotees come in their thousands...
0:03:52 > 0:03:54- ..to bathe and cleanse their bodies.
0:03:56 > 0:04:00- The Ganges flows - from the Himalayas to Bengal Bay.
0:04:01 > 0:04:07- The Hindu Gods are incarnated - as rivers, trees and mountains.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- This is why the Ganges - is so important.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- Ganga is a goddess who's worshipped - and loved the most by them.
0:04:15 > 0:04:20- According to ancient scriptures, - Ganga came from heaven to earth...
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- ..to save seven generations - of the Bhagirath ancestry.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- She cleansed the population - of the whole world.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- The people's excitement and pleasure - from being on the river is obvious.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- Indians, as we all know, - are crazy about cricket.
0:05:22 > 0:05:24- Young lads play anywhere, any time.
0:05:26 > 0:05:28- Oh, good shot!
0:05:36 > 0:05:39- England, 100 all out.
0:05:39 > 0:05:42- India, 436 for 0.
0:06:02 > 0:06:04- Allahabad finally draws closer.
0:06:05 > 0:06:07- The hustle and bustle increases.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- The arrival of 100 million people - is expected.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14- 30 million on Mauni Amavasya.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- The most important bathing day.
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- Kumbh Mela is a combination - of mythology and astrology.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- Every 12 years, it's believed - the river's water turns to nectar.
0:06:27 > 0:06:31- This happens on Amavasya - - the day of a new moon.
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- The location of this place - is called the Sangam.
0:06:35 > 0:06:39- 2001 falls on - 12 multiplied by 12 years.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- This only happens - once in a lifetime.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- As they bathe in the river, - Hindus reach Mocsha...
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- ..a release from - the cycle of birth and death.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54- It's the foundation stone - of Hinduism.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57- The whole point of the Kumbh Mela.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- Did you count - how many crossed the river?
0:07:01 > 0:07:03- It's incredible. I can't believe it.
0:07:04 > 0:07:09- I was just saying to Al, to get - all these people in one place...
0:07:10 > 0:07:14- ..you'd need an Eisteddfod every - day, every week, for seven years.
0:07:16 > 0:07:21- We're eventually - going to cross over there.
0:07:21 > 0:07:26- There's a pontoon - after pontoon after pontoon.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- I can't describe it. It's amazing.
0:07:31 > 0:07:34- Just look how many people are here.
0:07:45 > 0:07:49- We're finally on a pontoon. - It isn't as bad as I expected.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- All sorts of people are here.
0:07:54 > 0:07:59- Those who've travelled for months - from the south of India.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- I came on an aeroplane.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08- I'm not half the man these folk are.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11- But the feeling is incredible.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- It's only their faith - that brings these people here.
0:08:30 > 0:08:32- Where are we going?
0:08:33 > 0:08:34- Sector 6.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- Excuse the hat, but I forgot mine.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41- I thought it would be foggy today, - of all days.
0:08:41 > 0:08:43- We're going to Sector 6 - to wait in a tent.
0:08:44 > 0:08:47- Better go for a look. - Oh! This stuff's heavy.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05- We've spent 3 hours - looking for an 'ashram' - a tent.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10- We can't find the ashram - we've been promised for the night.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- It's like looking for... - an ashram in the Kumbh Mela.
0:09:15 > 0:09:17- If you know what I mean. Anyhow.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- We've decided to put down - our stuff here. I said to Hughes...
0:09:21 > 0:09:24- .."You're staying here, - next to the WI tent. OK?"
0:09:25 > 0:09:27- I'll look for the ashram.
0:09:30 > 0:09:31- Stay.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- Here are facts which illustrate - the enormity of Kumbh Mela.
0:09:39 > 0:09:40- 15,500 water taps.
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- 17,000 street lights.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47- 11,000 policemen.
0:09:49 > 0:09:52- 13,000 tonnes of wheat, - 500 tonnes or rice.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- 750,000 toilets.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- 90 kilometres of road.
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- 15 temporary pontoons, - and one Welshman from Treboeth.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- Tomorrow, more than four times - the London population...
0:10:32 > 0:10:35- ..descend on a city - where everyone's equal.
0:10:36 > 0:10:40- From the affluent businessman, - to the poorest beggar.
0:10:40 > 0:10:42- Their faith makes them equal.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- Many stars have been - refused permission to come here.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- Richard Gere, Madonna, - and possibly Paul McCartney.
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- But the Dalai Lama - received an invitation.
0:10:56 > 0:10:57- And me.
0:10:59 > 0:11:01- SPEAKS NATIVE LANGUAGE
0:11:19 > 0:11:21- My name is Dewi.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- The Dalai Lama's presence inspires - excitement and much activity.
0:11:40 > 0:11:44- Everyone wants to see him, - and maybe receive a blessing.
0:12:11 > 0:12:16- Good to see Hindus and Buddhists - united on such a historic occasion.
0:12:45 > 0:12:49- The Dalai Lama's laughter - was as mischievous as ever.
0:12:51 > 0:12:55- His sparkling eyes makes - people smile, wherever he goes.
0:12:56 > 0:12:57- I can't believe it.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00- He was 20 ft away from me.
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- I'm sure he winked at me.
0:13:09 > 0:13:13- I'd like to meet him. - Think there's a chance, Al?
0:13:15 > 0:13:16- Maybe.
0:13:16 > 0:13:18- You never know.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23- He might pop into The King's Head - in Treboeth one day.
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- Calm returns as he walks away.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- In the stillness, - after everyone has left...
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- ..guess what I found - floating down the river.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46- A Tibetan flag.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49- Want to know where it's going?
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- My bedroom.
0:13:51 > 0:13:53- 'Blessed is the jewel in the lotus.'
0:13:56 > 0:13:57- Great.
0:13:58 > 0:13:59- Come on, Hughes.
0:14:23 > 0:14:25
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- SPEAKS NATIVE LANGUAGE
0:14:41 > 0:14:46- He says the white marks on the side - of his face represent God's feet.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- The red in the centre - symbolises God Himself.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- These defend him from bad luck.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- This is Swami - Kaushalendra Prapannacharya.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- Many important religious communities - take part in the Kumbh.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- Each has its own Swami - or leader.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- Pupils live by the ashram.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19- The Swami is their leader.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- Swami means, 'Saviour From Darkness' - or 'The One Who's Full Of Wisdom'.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- In other words, a living saint.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- Our Swami - has 200 faithful followers...
0:15:30 > 0:15:32- ..and many more on the fringe.
0:15:33 > 0:15:37- It's an honour for close followers - to drink water that washed his feet.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- The community feeds everyone. - No-one, including us, is refused.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56- The ashram depends entirely - on voluntary donations.
0:16:04 > 0:16:07- Today, I hope to meet the sadhus.
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- They're people who walk around - naked and live in caves.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16- They only eat nuts.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19- They do the strangest things.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- They're a very mystic people. - No-one seems to understand them.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- Something like the 'Gorsedd'.
0:16:26 > 0:16:27- Come on, Hughes.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31- Sadhus roam the country - with no more than a pot of water.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- It's thought they have - supernatural powers.
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- The ability to rise from the earth, - or disappear and reappear on demand.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- Sadhus graduate in Kumbh Mela...
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- ..symbolised by cutting their hair - - for the last time in their lives.
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- The senior Sadhu - officiates the Pinda ceremony.
0:17:03 > 0:17:09- Meeting him was an honour, and - confirmed the ceremony's importance.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- They charge more - than the Arts Council!
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- We're here to bathe in the Ganga.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40- The festival only happens - once every 144 years.
0:18:40 > 0:18:44- This is a once-in-a-lifetime - opportunity.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46- How does it feel to be in the water?
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- It's a fantastic feeling.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03- The sand and water - are very important.
0:19:05 > 0:19:09- We'll stay a month, - and carry the sacred water home.
0:19:10 > 0:19:12- I'm here because Mam's here.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- I met a gang from London - in the midst of all the millions.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- Have you travelled all the way - for the Kumbh Mela?
0:19:21 > 0:19:22- Yes!
0:19:22 > 0:19:23- No? All this way?
0:19:23 > 0:19:24- No? All this way?- - Yes!
0:19:25 > 0:19:26- Are you taking water home with you?
0:19:26 > 0:19:27- Are you taking water home with you?- - Yes.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31- And sand. Good.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- Thank you very much. - Very kind of you.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- The Kumbh Mela - is the world's biggest fair.
0:20:05 > 0:20:09- I'd thought of having a good - night's sleep before the big event.
0:20:09 > 0:20:15- But it's 3.00am and the local Terry - Wogan wants to say a few words.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20- He's already been talking - half an hour.
0:20:21 > 0:20:24- Sulwyn, come back! All is forgiven.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- The noise continued throughout - the night. I didn't get any sleep.
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- They were announcing the names - of people who were lost.
0:20:43 > 0:20:45- On average, that's 10,000 a day.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- Tension filled the air - as we awaited dawn.
0:20:57 > 0:20:58- It's 4.30am.
0:20:59 > 0:21:04- It's estimated 25 million people are - here - and they're still arriving.
0:21:05 > 0:21:09- Whole villages are coming, - holding hands.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12- Individuals, pilgrims - - they all come here.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15- As you can see from my clothes, - it's freezing.
0:21:16 > 0:21:19- People of all ages - are emerging out of the water.
0:21:19 > 0:21:23- The fact they're not frozen solid - underlines their unwavering faith.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19- At last, dawn breaks.
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- Sadhus get the privilege - of leading 30 million devotees...
0:23:23 > 0:23:26- ..to cleanse their sins - in the sacred nectar.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- Without a doubt, - this is the highlight of Kumbh Mela.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55- It's 6.30 on the last morning - of the Kumbh Mela.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58- It's incredibly cold.
0:23:58 > 0:24:01- And it's been - an incredible experience.
0:24:01 > 0:24:05- I'll tell you this much, - if I'm still alive in 12 years...
0:24:06 > 0:24:07- ..I'll be back.
0:24:20 > 0:24:22- S4C Subtitles by- GWEAD