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0:00:03 > 0:00:07- Travellers? Adventurers, that's us. - Lucky we know our stuff.
0:00:08 > 0:00:13- My large bag was too full, so I - bought this cheap one in Hong Kong.
0:00:14 > 0:00:18- The zips and handle have fallen off! - And what's just fallen off?
0:00:19 > 0:00:20- The wheel.
0:00:21 > 0:00:23- We know what we're doing.
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0:00:48 > 0:00:50- CONVERSATION
0:01:00 > 0:01:04- We've come here in April, - for an important reason.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06- It's time for the hanami.
0:01:07 > 0:01:12- That's the season when the cherry - trees blossom and look their best.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- The Japanese flock to sit under - these beautiful trees...
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- ..to eat, drink and socialise.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- As if anyone needed - an excuse to do that!
0:01:24 > 0:01:28- Everyone has their own image - of Japan and its people.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32- Not a visual idea, but what goes on - up here, and their interests.
0:01:33 > 0:01:35- Look at this place!
0:01:52 > 0:01:56- The Japanese love playing games. - Look at these. Strewth!
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- Some play them all day, - so I've heard.
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- Look at him.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08- DRUM PLAYING
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- 'Pachinko' is a very popular - game in Japan.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- It's a gambling game, similar - to the bagatelle I played as a boy.
0:02:23 > 0:02:27- You win small metal balls, and at - the end, you exchange them for cash.
0:02:27 > 0:02:32- The Japanese are mad - about technical games.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Of course, style - is important to the young.
0:02:55 > 0:03:01- This is Tsukiji Fish Market at - 4.00am. You don't want to be here.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- They say this fish - is called the Sinatra fish.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- # Crevettes, I've had a few
0:03:16 > 0:03:21- # But then again, - too few to mention... #
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- This is laver bread!
0:03:24 > 0:03:25- Ah, good.
0:03:26 > 0:03:27- Domo.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29- Arigato.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- Japan heads the list of the world's - environmental offenders...
0:03:34 > 0:03:38- ...because the Japanese will pay - more than anyone for fish like tuna.
0:03:38 > 0:03:42- Life's strange. I've flown - half way around the world...
0:03:42 > 0:03:44- ..to meet a fish from Ireland.
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- The highest price paid this year - for one tuna, is 150,000.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- That's 20 a bite.
0:03:54 > 0:03:56- JAPANESE
0:04:02 > 0:04:07- Here's the unfrozen fish section. - They're delivered by air, mostly.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- That says it comes from France.
0:04:11 > 0:04:16- When it's cut, they look to see how - much fat there is in the stomach.
0:04:21 > 0:04:26- This costs about 10,000, - which is 7,000.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29- Just for that. It's like gold!
0:04:33 > 0:04:38- Just as in markets back home, they - walk around, look, take samples.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42- They know which fish they want, - they make notes.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46- Then they put a bid in - at the auction.
0:04:50 > 0:04:52- This is how they count in auctions.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- One, two, three, four, five.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00- Six, seven, eight.
0:05:02 > 0:05:03- Nine? Yes.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07- Q, oh, yes.
0:05:09 > 0:05:10- Yes, OK.
0:05:14 > 0:05:16- JAPANESE
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- Oh, thirty five.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- Forty five, thirty five. They have - their own style, or language...
0:05:26 > 0:05:28- ..when they bid at auction.
0:05:33 > 0:05:34- Off we go.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- BIDDING IN JAPANESE
0:06:23 > 0:06:25- This happens every day of the week.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29- Thousands of fish are sold, - for millions of pounds.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- It makes you think, will there - be any fish left one day?
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- If not, these blokes - will have had their chips.
0:06:56 > 0:07:00- This fish was bought - for over 20,000.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- But the demand for tuna in Japanese - sushi restaurants is so high...
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- ..that prices increase sky-high, - before the fish reaches your plate.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- In one day, fish, and seafood, - worth more than 100 million...
0:07:18 > 0:07:20- ..goes through this market.
0:08:28 > 0:08:32- Good God, Al, look at the size - of what he's given us!
0:08:33 > 0:08:35- Arigato!
0:08:46 > 0:08:50- That's it, a morning's work. - It's 7.00am and we've worked hard.
0:08:50 > 0:08:54- I was looking forward to breakfast, - bacon and eggs, some laver bread.
0:08:55 > 0:08:56- What do I get?
0:08:57 > 0:08:58- Sushi.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03- Young people all over the world - like fashion.
0:09:03 > 0:09:05- The Japanese take it seriously.
0:09:07 > 0:09:09- Western influence is evident.
0:09:11 > 0:09:12- Ah, Kawasaki, good bikes.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- It's odd, I was thinking - about the Japanese names.
0:09:17 > 0:09:22- We think of these as modern, but the - names resemble Welsh place names.
0:09:22 > 0:09:28- For example, Suzuki means pear tree. - Mazda, a field of pine.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31- Yamaha, a mountain leaf.
0:09:32 > 0:09:34- Kawasaki means a river estuary.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- But never buy a bike - called Kawasickie.
0:09:43 > 0:09:45- We're going to Kyoto today.
0:09:46 > 0:09:50- It's Japan's ancient capital and - completely different from Tokyo.
0:09:50 > 0:09:55- We're going on the Shinkansen, - one of the world's fastest trains.
0:09:55 > 0:09:57- The 'Silver Bullet' train.
0:10:07 > 0:10:09- We're travelling on carriage 14.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12- They told me carriage 14...
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- ..would stop right here.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- They were right.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- This train is so long, the driver - stopped at the next station...
0:10:32 > 0:10:36- ..and had his lunch, - before we arrived.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- Isn't it odd? - The toilet is always at the back.
0:10:56 > 0:10:58- Damn! There was someone in it too.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- Over there in the clouds - is Mount Fuji.
0:11:05 > 0:11:09- This train can travel - at 300km per hour.
0:11:10 > 0:11:12- They get 'Pobol y Cwm' here too!
0:11:13 > 0:11:16- "Hello, Reg. Fancy a cabbage?"
0:11:17 > 0:11:18- Just joking!
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- The train goes from east to west.
0:11:28 > 0:11:33- I was amazed at how much concrete - there was and how little greenery.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38- At last, Kyoto, centre - of Japan's ancient culture...
0:11:38 > 0:11:42- ..and a haven of quietness, - so different from Tokyo.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- Kyoto also has - one of Japan's largest studios...
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- ..where the best samurai - and ninja films are produced.
0:12:17 > 0:12:18- Ho!
0:12:23 > 0:12:24- Ooh!
0:12:24 > 0:12:25- Haaah!
0:12:26 > 0:12:27- Hoooh!!
0:12:34 > 0:12:36-
0:12:45 > 0:12:47- We're staying here.
0:12:48 > 0:12:50- It's called Rikiya.
0:12:51 > 0:12:53- He calls it Rioja.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- Look down here, slippers. - We take our shoes off here.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- Take your shoes off, Hughes. - Here's our room.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04- Right, wait while I put on - the light.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- Here we are.
0:13:08 > 0:13:10- Look, small chairs.
0:13:11 > 0:13:12- Morning tea.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17- Look at these - they set these - out for us at night.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- Futons. That's what - the Japanese sleep on.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23- He calls them croutons.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- Here's another small room, - with lovely windows.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- Look over there, Hughes.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34- It's a sort of shrine, - which we mustn't touch.
0:13:34 > 0:13:36- Here, another small room.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- Outside, there's a huge temple.
0:13:42 > 0:13:46- Chairs, which we mustn't put - on the mats, no, no!
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- This is where we sit at night - to sip beer... tea!
0:13:51 > 0:13:56- Right, I must stop now, - because we have an important job.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- They close in 30 minutes. - Come on, Hughes.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- It's odd how these journeys - can go up and down.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10- Yesterday, in Tokyo, - I was on top of the world.
0:14:11 > 0:14:14- Music, lights, - young people having fun.
0:14:14 > 0:14:16- Then we came to Kyoto on the train.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- And everyone wants money here. - A lot of money!
0:14:22 > 0:14:24- We asked a geisha girl...
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- ..if we could film a short - interview. She wanted 1,000!
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- Even Jonsi doesn't get that much.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40- Only geishas can perform - the tea ceremony.
0:14:40 > 0:14:42- You've got to see it in Japan.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- We've decided to give you - the alternative version.
0:14:47 > 0:14:48- Here it is.
0:14:56 > 0:14:57- The coffee ceremony.
0:14:58 > 0:14:59- Arigato.
0:15:06 > 0:15:08- Old traditions are very important.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12- Aesthetic pleasures are a vital - part of life in Japan.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- Here, in a Zen garden, - they come to meditate...
0:15:16 > 0:15:18- ..and ponder on the meaning of life.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21- And the purpose of 'cynghanedd'.
0:15:23 > 0:15:27- The shape, texture and colour - of the garden all help...
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- ..to concentrate the mind - and relax the body.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- Bruce Lee, the famous karate bloke, - went to a dating agency.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- He said, "Have you got a woman with - one large, and one small, boob?"
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- "No," they replied. "Find one!" - He came back in a month.
0:15:53 > 0:15:57- "Have you got a woman with one - large and one small boob?"
0:15:57 > 0:15:59- They did, so off he went.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- "Are you the woman with one large, - and one small boob?" he asked.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- "Yes." "Take your clothes off!" - he said. She did so. Then he went...
0:16:10 > 0:16:12- I liked that one!
0:16:16 > 0:16:20- Outside Kyoto, in the country, - remote places have been created...
0:16:20 > 0:16:24- ..as a haven for pilgrims looking - for a respite from the busy towns.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33- Religion in Japan emphasises - the importance of nature.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- Water, trees and silence have great - significance for the Buddhist.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42- It's a chance to escape from - the noise and smoke for a while.
0:17:04 > 0:17:08- Last night, it was empty here. - Look at it tonight!
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- It's because it's the first day - of spring, apparently.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16- They're here to see - the flowers, the hanami.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- It's like an enormous party!
0:17:19 > 0:17:20- Look at it.
0:17:24 > 0:17:27- Japan is famous all over - the world for the geishas.
0:17:28 > 0:17:30- Maybe it's our main image of Japan.
0:17:30 > 0:17:34- These girls are meiko, - that is, trainee geishas.
0:17:34 > 0:17:39- Rich men pay 2,000 for a geisha's - company, for one evening...
0:17:39 > 0:17:42- ..in tea houses, or restaurants, - in the Gion region.
0:17:43 > 0:17:47- The girls learn to dance, play - instruments, serve drinks...
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- ..offer cigarettes - and to converse in a diverting way.
0:17:51 > 0:17:55- But, amid the fun, - there's time for prayer too.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- Today, we're on our way to meet...
0:18:10 > 0:18:15- ..one of Japan's leading exponents - of shodo, traditional calligraphy.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19- It's the style of writing developed - by gentlemen, priests and samurai.
0:18:19 > 0:18:22- First, we must find a hotel.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25- Hey, this looks nice, Al. - We'll go here.
0:18:26 > 0:18:28- I don't want to.
0:18:28 > 0:18:29- Oh, yes.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32- I see what you mean.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40- These aren't ordinary hotels - but 'love hotels'.
0:18:40 > 0:18:45- Young married couples, who live - in small houses with thin walls...
0:18:45 > 0:18:49- ..can come here to escape from - their in-laws, for an hour or two.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- But, as the old Japanese proverb - says, "calligraphy calls".
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- Here is Sosai Inada, in his home, - which is also his workshop...
0:18:59 > 0:19:03- ..full of beautiful objects and - marvellous examples of his craft.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- Which is that? - Oh, of course, they go down.
0:19:22 > 0:19:23- What's that?
0:19:25 > 0:19:26- Oh, right, OK.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31- This is a complicated one.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- For me, at least.
0:19:39 > 0:19:40- Ah, very good.
0:19:44 > 0:19:45- Heavens.
0:19:46 > 0:19:47- May I see?
0:19:47 > 0:19:49- I'll show you this.
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- They're beautiful in themselves.
0:19:54 > 0:19:55- Aren't they?
0:20:07 > 0:20:08- Ooh!
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- That's heavy, with the ink too.
0:20:19 > 0:20:20- And that's 'sakura'?
0:20:20 > 0:20:21- And that's 'sakura'? - - Sakura.
0:20:22 > 0:20:24- 'Sakura' is the flower - of the cherry.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26- The ink is very thick.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33- Sosai's work is seen - all over the country.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37- He sells his work as an artist - at home would sell pictures.
0:20:38 > 0:20:43- And, like all artists, he signs - every picture with his own stamp.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52- Traditional music - is still important.
0:20:53 > 0:20:57- No, this isn't Lyn Ebenezer, - but Professor Homei Matsumura...
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- ..and his pupil, Takeshi Lida.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03- They specialise in playing - traditional bamboo instruments.
0:21:04 > 0:21:05- What's the...?
0:21:07 > 0:21:10- Hashu? No, Kash... um, what is it?
0:21:11 > 0:21:11- What was it?
0:21:11 > 0:21:12- What was it? - - Shakuhachi.
0:21:13 > 0:21:16- Shakuhachi. They're masters - of these instruments. Can we hear?
0:21:17 > 0:21:17- Bamboo.
0:21:17 > 0:21:18- Bamboo. - - Yes, bamboo.
0:21:22 > 0:21:24- TRADITIONAL JAPANESE MUSIC
0:22:03 > 0:22:04- Very good.
0:22:05 > 0:22:06- Thank you.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- That melody was about deer - calling to each other.
0:22:11 > 0:22:13- Very good, marvellous, thank you.
0:22:14 > 0:22:15- Okini.
0:22:23 > 0:22:27- Japanese traditions differ so much - from other parts of the world.
0:22:27 > 0:22:32- They emphasise elegance, the beauty - of the dance, music and art.
0:22:33 > 0:22:37- The influence of the samurai - is still strong in their culture.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40- TRADITIONAL JAPANESE MUSIC
0:22:42 > 0:22:44- WOOD STRIKES WOOD
0:22:52 > 0:22:57- All the disciplines seem to - interweave and overlap each other.
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- From the geisha's dance, - to the kendo fighter's movements...
0:23:03 > 0:23:04- ..and the innate style...
0:23:05 > 0:23:07- ..of the sumo wrestlers.
0:23:24 > 0:23:26- But things are changing in Japan.
0:23:26 > 0:23:30- Young people on the street develop - their own style and fashion.
0:23:30 > 0:23:34- Gothic is in today. - Tomorrow, who knows?
0:23:35 > 0:23:39- But is this fashion - all that different?
0:23:39 > 0:23:41- Is the wheel turning full circle?
0:23:42 > 0:23:45- Only time can tell - if the old has disappeared...
0:23:46 > 0:23:48- ..and what the future holds.
0:23:49 > 0:23:53- The people we met were very kind, - welcoming and always laughing.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55- But we've also seen another side.
0:23:56 > 0:24:00- They don't want to lose face - and that's very important to them.
0:24:00 > 0:24:04- People tell us, even if you've lived - here over 50 years...
0:24:04 > 0:24:08- ..you're still considered - to be a 'gai-jin' by the people.
0:24:09 > 0:24:11- 'Gai-jin'? A stranger.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- Remind you of somewhere?
0:24:15 > 0:24:17- Sayonara.
0:24:31 > 0:24:33- S4C Subtitles by:- GWEAD