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0:00:33 > 0:00:37- This week on Cledrau Coll, - we follow the line from Afonwen...
0:00:37 > 0:00:40- ..through Caernarfon - and on to Bangor.
0:00:41 > 0:00:45- The branch line was built to link - the towns of Lleyn and Eifionydd...
0:00:45 > 0:00:49- ..to the main - Chester-Holyhead line at Bangor.
0:00:54 > 0:00:59- This branch was familiar to anyone - who travelled Wales by train.
0:01:01 > 0:01:07- Such names as Bryncir, Chwilog, Ynys - and Llanwnda remain in the memory.
0:01:16 > 0:01:21- Many look back longingly at - the old railway stations of Wales...
0:01:21 > 0:01:26- ..but for many of us Afonwen - occupies a special place of its own.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32- The station stood on one of - the most exposed sites in Wales...
0:01:33 > 0:01:37- ..facing the western winds - that swept in from the sea.
0:01:38 > 0:01:43- It could be cold on a summer's day, - and it still is!
0:01:45 > 0:01:51- The Rev Iorwerth Jones Owen - has happy memories of Afonwen.
0:01:52 > 0:01:54- What was your work here?
0:01:54 > 0:01:56- What was your work here?- - I was a porter.
0:01:57 > 0:01:59- I remember my first morning...
0:01:59 > 0:02:04- ..and an English chap called Jim - lived in the terrace over there.
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- I remember the booking office - with its paraffin lamp.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- Every time I smell paraffin - it takes me back...
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- ..to the booking office - at Afonwen in 1942.
0:02:21 > 0:02:25- It was busy during the War, - especially at Afonwen...
0:02:25 > 0:02:30- ..because of the Glendower camp - and all the trailers there.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- But it became even busier - in the late 1940s...
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- ..when times improved after the War.
0:02:40 > 0:02:44- How do you sum up Afonwen? - What does it mean to you?
0:02:44 > 0:02:48- The sound of the wind - through the wires.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- The bells ringing in the signal box.
0:02:50 > 0:02:55- The noise of the train and - the trucks being pushed and pulled.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- The people alighting from the trains - and walking over the two bridges...
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- ..often in the rain - and strong winds.
0:03:05 > 0:03:09- All of that is somehow contained - in my picture of Afonwen.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24- Gwyn, this journey will take us from - Cardigan Bay to the Menai Straits.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- From the wind at Afonwen!
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- How long is the journey?
0:03:31 > 0:03:33- How long is the journey?- - It's about twenty miles.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47- To the north of Afonwen - the line leaves the coast...
0:03:47 > 0:03:51- ..bearing right - on its way to Bangor.
0:03:51 > 0:03:56- The Cambrian line to Pwllheli - continues its way, bearing left.
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- The first station after Afonwen - was at Chwilog...
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- ..where the busy traffic is today - confined to the main road.
0:04:20 > 0:04:23- Ifor Pritchard remembers - Chwilog station in its heyday.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- The Navy was there at the - HMS Glendower camp during the War.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- I had made friends - with some from the camp...
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- ..who had wandered to the village, - knowing nothing about the place.
0:04:39 > 0:04:43- They came regularly once every three - nights after we got to know them...
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- ..and one was from Glasgow - and the other from Liverpool.
0:04:51 > 0:04:55- The day they completed - their training at the camp...
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- ..there was a special train - to take them from here at 6.30.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- My mother had made - food and cakes for them...
0:05:05 > 0:05:08- ..and I came to see - the train pass through at 6.30.
0:05:08 > 0:05:12- The train didn't stop, but - it slowed down to change staff...
0:05:12 > 0:05:16- ..and as it did so they leaned out - and I handed them the basket.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22- The station has long since - disappeared...
0:05:22 > 0:05:27- ..but evidence remains to show us - we're walking on the old platform.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- It's easy to follow - the old line on a map...
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- ..though it wasn't always - so easy on foot.
0:05:58 > 0:06:03- But from the sky around Llangybi - the line's route is clearly visible.
0:06:28 > 0:06:32- There are no more trains - running along here...
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- ..but thirty years ago that caravan - would have been parked dangerously!
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- It's certainly - a blot on the landscape today.
0:06:41 > 0:06:45- But the path of the old line - is very clear here.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- I'm pretty sure we're approaching - the site of the old Ynys station.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53- Once we're past these weeds.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- Once we're past these weeds.- - The famous Japanese knotweed!
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- There's no shortage of - impressive views on this line...
0:07:16 > 0:07:20- ..with Snowdonia - as a perfect backdrop.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- This looks an interesting building.
0:07:31 > 0:07:33- Was it once a ganger's hut?
0:07:33 > 0:07:35- Was it once a ganger's hut?- - Yes, it was.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- It's still in excellent condition.
0:07:40 > 0:07:42- It's still in excellent condition.- - It's unusually built in brick.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- They more often used old sleepers - with bricks for the chimney stack.
0:07:48 > 0:07:52- It's interesting to look at the - brickwork on an old hut like this.
0:07:53 > 0:07:57- Every fourth row contains blue - bricks in a different pattern.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03- They went to the trouble of giving - this simple hut some decoration.
0:08:03 > 0:08:06- It's had a new roof put on it.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- I bet the old fireplace - is still in there too.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- Forward to Bryncir, - an agricultural centre...
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- ..with a prosperous market - close to the line.
0:08:28 > 0:08:32- The livestock enjoyed better - facilities than station workers...
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- ..who had to man the levers out - in the open, whatever the weather.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- The platform on this side - is lower than on the far side.
0:08:43 > 0:08:48- Yes - this side is older - than the platform to our left.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- The water pipe is still in place.
0:08:52 > 0:08:56- That's unusual, because this kind - of thing most often went for scrap.
0:08:58 > 0:09:02- Well, I'm looking forward to - the next stretch along Lon Eifion.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06- Just a minute, Arfon. Look at this.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11- Is that a half-mile post? - Half a mile to where?
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- A quarter of a mile to the - previous post in one direction...
0:09:16 > 0:09:20- ..and in the other, to a post - marked three-quarters of a mile.
0:09:20 > 0:09:24- Let's go and look for - the quarter-mile post!
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- This is a well-kept path - we're walking along now.
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- All this walking - is making me thirsty, Arfon.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- A definite hint from Gwyn - that he could do with a cup of tea.
0:09:55 > 0:10:00- The present occupiers at Pant Glas - cater for thirsty travellers.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05- Well, Gwyn, a cuppa in Pant Glas!
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- Many before us have stood on - this platform waiting for a train.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13- And none could enjoy a cup of tea!
0:10:14 > 0:10:15- What's behind us here?
0:10:15 > 0:10:17- What's behind us here?- - I think this was a waiting room.
0:10:19 > 0:10:23- Built around - the time of the war, I'd say.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- The cat has the platform to herself.
0:10:30 > 0:10:31- Where to next on the line?
0:10:31 > 0:10:33- Where to next on the line?- - Penygroes.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- I've finished my tea. - Let's see if the cat follows us!
0:10:40 > 0:10:42- I think she's happy where she is.
0:10:42 > 0:10:44- I think she's happy where she is.- - Waiting for the next train!
0:10:52 > 0:10:54
0:10:59 > 0:11:03- Approaching Penygroes on - the line from Afonwen to Bangor...
0:11:04 > 0:11:08- ..it's clear that this section of - the old line is being transformed.
0:11:09 > 0:11:14- The sight today is quite different - to the days of steam.
0:11:27 > 0:11:32- We're at Penygroes where we can - again see where the platform was...
0:11:33 > 0:11:37- ..though the station buildings - and the tracks have gone.
0:11:39 > 0:11:42- Yes, the platform is still there - for the time being...
0:11:42 > 0:11:46- ..but you can see the work - going on here.
0:11:46 > 0:11:50- In a very short time, - this site will be transformed.
0:11:52 > 0:11:54- While the tracks have disappeared...
0:11:55 > 0:11:59- ..today the path is being looked - after and adapted for a new use.
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- What is Sustrans, Richard?
0:12:04 > 0:12:09- Sustrans is a charity - with fifteen years' experience...
0:12:09 > 0:12:11- ..in the creation of cycle paths.
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- The aim is to develop safe - and attractive cycle paths.
0:12:18 > 0:12:22- Recreational routes are popular - with cyclists and with walkers...
0:12:23 > 0:12:28- ..offering impressive and beautiful - scenery for those who use them.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- We welcome everyone - to use these paths.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- We hope to extend the path - in the future.
0:12:39 > 0:12:45- As we approach, I'm reminded - of a famous old photograph...
0:12:46 > 0:12:52- ..that shows a crowd standing - around the platform with the engine.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57- Penygroes is important historically.
0:12:57 > 0:13:01- We're now walking along - part of the Nantlle railway line.
0:13:02 > 0:13:06- The slate industry was crucial to - the success of North Wales lines...
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- ..as here, for example, - on the special Llyn Padarn railway.
0:13:15 > 0:13:16- Our next stop is Groeslon.
0:13:16 > 0:13:18- Our next stop is Groeslon.- - On we go to Groeslon.
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- One of the characteristic - features at Groeslon, Gwyn...
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- ..is that the station is - right in the middle of the village.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49- Very convenient too, - unlike so many other stations...
0:13:49 > 0:13:53- ..which can be a fair distance - from the village.
0:13:55 > 0:13:59- I can see the old railway gate posts - are still standing...
0:13:59 > 0:14:03- ..almost as a memorial - to the railway.
0:14:04 > 0:14:08- They're solid - the wooden posts - and the concrete pillars too.
0:14:11 > 0:14:14- Imagine the trains that passed here.
0:14:17 > 0:14:21- They even had the Royal Train - come through here once.
0:14:23 > 0:14:28- Along our walk, the excellent - quality of the path is striking...
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- ..and makes walking so much easier.
0:14:52 > 0:14:56- On we go towards - the old Dinas junction...
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- ..as the old line threads its way - between the trees.
0:15:06 > 0:15:10- Though the wide gauge tracks - disappeared long ago...
0:15:11 > 0:15:16- ..new tracks have been laid thanks - to the Welsh Highland Railway.
0:15:17 > 0:15:21- From the air, - it looks like a model railway.
0:15:28 > 0:15:32- One former worker on this line - is Dennis Williams.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- What are your memories - of Dinas station?
0:15:37 > 0:15:42- I have a great many memories - - and very happy memories too.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- I remember coming here - as a signalman...
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- ..and the lines were very stringent - in terms of sticking to regulations.
0:15:54 > 0:15:58- The thought of trains today - passing red signals...
0:15:58 > 0:16:02- ..makes me quake in my boots when I - remember how stringent things were.
0:16:03 > 0:16:09- The same rules applied in Dinas - as in Manchester or Birmingham.
0:16:10 > 0:16:12- The same rules applied everywhere.
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- I spent a while in Llanwnda, which - is only a mile or so from Dinas.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- I worked there as a porter.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26- It was quite something - to work as a porter in Llanwnda.
0:16:30 > 0:16:35- It's hard to imagine any need - for a porter in Llanwnda.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- There was a stationmaster there - as well - Mr Sullivan.
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- The Queen came here on - the Royal Train in 1963, I think.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- Mr Sullivan was due to retire - on the Thursday...
0:16:50 > 0:16:53- ..and the Queen was coming - on the Friday.
0:16:53 > 0:16:57- He received a phonecall - from the management in Chester.
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- "John, the Queen's coming on Friday. - Are you willing to stay on?"
0:17:01 > 0:17:05- "Oh, good God, no. I'm retiring. - I'm off!" he replied!
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- "You'll be losing an honour," - they said...
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- ..but John said, "It's the Queen - that's losing the honour!"
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- It's good to know that this familiar - sight towards Caernarfon Castle...
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- ..can once more be viewed - from a train.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- Don't these coaches look wonderful?
0:18:38 > 0:18:40- When the line ran from Afonwen...
0:18:40 > 0:18:45- ..the track ran beneath the Maes - and along the shoreline.
0:18:45 > 0:18:49- The tunnel has today been adapted - for use by motor vehicles.
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- Carrying all kinds of freight - and hundreds of passengers...
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- ..Caernarfon station was very busy - in its day, before closing in 1972.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05- The Sunday School trip - was the annual highlight.
0:19:05 > 0:19:10- The Sunday School trip was always - held on a Thursday, not a Saturday.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- The town clerk was asked to consider - making the day a bank holiday...
0:19:17 > 0:19:21- ..to allow shops and schools - to close.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25- So there was this pilgrimage - from here to Rhyl.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31- We'd return home - after a long and busy day.
0:19:32 > 0:19:36- The mothers waited to collect the - children outside the station here.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- Everyone used to say - they'd never do it again...
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- ..but when next year came around, - everyone got on the train!
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- Why was this line closed making - Caernarfon effectively isolated?
0:19:53 > 0:19:59- The line from Bangor to Afonwen - was a lifeline from north to west...
0:20:00 > 0:20:05- ..and I can't understand why - nobody realised that at the time.
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- It had local importance as - local people made great use of it.
0:20:11 > 0:20:16- Much use was made as a link between - North Wales and Butlin's, Pwllheli.
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- But the great loss - was the missed opportunity...
0:20:21 > 0:20:23- ..to create a railway line - for Wales.
0:20:23 > 0:20:27- A line to travel from Anglesey - to Carmarthen, for example...
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- ..without going through England.
0:20:39 > 0:20:44- We leave Caernarfon for Griffiths - Crossing and then Port Dinorwic...
0:20:44 > 0:20:49- ..and these stones here have - some significance, don't they?
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- Yes, they mark the Old Allotments.
0:20:53 > 0:20:57- Many railway workers - were given small plots of land...
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- ..where they grew vegetables - close to the line.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03- They were competitive too.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07- There's a story about the - stationmaster at Dovey Junction...
0:21:07 > 0:21:11- ..who grew potatoes in Merioneth, - carrots in Cardiganshire...
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- ..and other veg in Montgomeryshire.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17- He won prizes with - his potatoes, Sharp Express...
0:21:18 > 0:21:22- ..but the stationmaster at Afonwen - was tired of hearing about all this.
0:21:22 > 0:21:27- He said, "Only the potatoes - arrive on time at Dovey Junction!"
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- On towards the old station at Port - Dinorwic which closed in the '60s.
0:21:42 > 0:21:46- The line now practically runs along - the banks of the Menai Straits.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- From the air, it's easy - to see the development...
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- ..around the old station - at Port Dinorwic.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- The trees and litter have reclaimed - the old railway tracks.
0:22:08 > 0:22:12- Through the Faenol tunnel - and out into the daylight...
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- ..passing Robert Stevenson's famous - bridge, seen here as it once was.
0:22:17 > 0:22:18- Here we met a former train driver.
0:22:19 > 0:22:25- At the Bangor loop, we had - to heat the four coaches...
0:22:26 > 0:22:30- ..and wait for the Holyhead - train for London to arrive.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- Once it pulled in, - we coupled the coaches to it.
0:22:36 > 0:22:40- That gave us time - to cook bacon and eggs...
0:22:40 > 0:22:44- ..and the smell of cooking - filled the platform.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46- That was great fun!
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- If you opened the regulators...
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- ..you risked losing your - bacon and eggs in the blast!
0:22:54 > 0:22:57- We'd have great fun on the line!
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- Bangor station - is where our journey ends.
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- I have memories of this place - as an extremely busy station.
0:23:06 > 0:23:10- There are still four tracks here, - but it's changed so much.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- You're right, - it was very busy here once.
0:23:15 > 0:23:20- Local trains running to Llanberis, - Bethesda, Anglesey, Afonwen...
0:23:20 > 0:23:25- ..not to mention the express trains - running from Holyhead to Euston.
0:23:26 > 0:23:29- It was particularly busy - on Saturdays.
0:23:30 > 0:23:36- I remember the old sheds - with hundreds of steam trains...
0:23:37 > 0:23:40- ..at least it seemed to be hundreds.
0:23:41 > 0:23:46- Today, you're lucky to see a - solitary diesel engine run through.
0:24:20 > 0:24:24- S4C subtitles by Testun Cyf