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0:00:29 > 0:00:31- A CHURCH BELL RINGS
0:00:45 > 0:00:50- Patrick Thomas was the rector of - this church in Brechfa for 15 years.
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- He never overslept, though - he didn't have an alarm clock...
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- ..because the church bell - was rung at 7.30am every morning.
0:00:59 > 0:01:03- Patrick and his family - lived in the manse.
0:01:03 > 0:01:05- That's just one anecdote...
0:01:05 > 0:01:10- ..from the happy time when Patrick - lived and worked in this area.
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- I'm on my way to the most remote - church in his care...
0:01:14 > 0:01:17- ..at Llanfihangel Rhos-y-corn.
0:01:18 > 0:01:23- There's the church, - in a very remote spot in the hills.
0:01:23 > 0:01:29- Yes. I believe it's one of the most - remote churches in Wales.
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- It's up in the hills, - and this weather is typical.
0:01:34 > 0:01:35- Yes, this fine rain.
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- It must be nice to come back here.
0:01:40 > 0:01:41- Yes, it is.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- I still miss these old parishes.
0:01:46 > 0:01:48- Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn.
0:01:49 > 0:01:50- You go first.
0:01:55 > 0:01:57- Before we go into the church...
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- ..we start here, - but where are you taking me?
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- From this old church...
0:02:03 > 0:02:09- ..we go to the capital of the parish - of Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn...
0:02:09 > 0:02:11- ..a small village called Gwernogle.
0:02:12 > 0:02:18- Then on to Brechfa, - where I lived for 17 years.
0:02:20 > 0:02:24- We also visit - the third parish, Abergorlech.
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- So many rural churches - are locked these days.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- It's good to see - this door's always open.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- It's important to us - to leave doors unlocked...
0:02:42 > 0:02:44- ..so that visitors are welcomed.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49- We must make sure - that we keep churches open.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- The authorities had plans - to close the church.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- My predecessor was Eric Grey...
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- ..a great character - within the Church in Wales.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- He was the one - who rang the bell in Brechfa.
0:03:06 > 0:03:07- That's right.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10- Eric was with me for eight years.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- He taught me - how to be a rural priest.
0:03:14 > 0:03:17- Eric received a letter - from the archdeacon...
0:03:18 > 0:03:21- ..telling him - to close down the church.
0:03:21 > 0:03:24- Eric wasn't happy, - because it's an old church.
0:03:25 > 0:03:27- So he ignored the letter.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32- This church has been - officially closed for 40 years...
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- ..though it's kept going - despite that!
0:03:37 > 0:03:43- This isn't the kind of place - a bishop would like to visit.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- It's a punishment parish.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48- Every diocese - has its punishment parish...
0:03:48 > 0:03:51- ..where they send - troublesome priests!
0:03:52 > 0:03:56- Priests whom the bishop - wanted to forget were sent here!
0:03:58 > 0:04:01- So why were you sent here?!
0:04:01 > 0:04:03- Yes, that's the question!
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- I'm not quite sure, - though a few have asked me!
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- One old priest - asked me that at a funeral.
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- I didn't know what to say!
0:04:16 > 0:04:19- But students at Lampeter College - used to pray...
0:04:19 > 0:04:24- .."From Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn, - save us, O Lord!"
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- They didn't want to come here - because it's so remote...
0:04:31 > 0:04:35- ..and because you tended - to be forgotten by the bishop.
0:04:36 > 0:04:40- There's a lovely - multi-coloured cloth on the altar.
0:04:41 > 0:04:43- What's its significance?
0:04:43 > 0:04:48- It was made by a woman from America, - Eleanor Van de Water...
0:04:48 > 0:04:50- ..who's an artist.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- Her grandfather came from this area.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56- The colours all signify something.
0:04:58 > 0:04:59- Blue represents the sea.
0:05:00 > 0:05:04- People from here - crossed the sea to America.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- Green represents the forests of - Washington state, where she lives...
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- ..and the forests - here in this parish.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- White and the Celtic crosses - signify the Holy Spirit...
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- ..and the faith - that kept people going.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- Purple represents the heather - on the mountain.
0:05:26 > 0:05:28- The weather's lifting, Patrick.
0:05:28 > 0:05:29- We may even get some sunshine.
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- We may even get some sunshine.- - Yes. It's worth having a priest - with you, sometimes!
0:05:34 > 0:05:36- You have some influence up there!
0:05:37 > 0:05:39- Well, it's possible!
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- You have a very close association - with this area...
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- ..but you're originally - from mid Wales.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- I was born in Welshpool...
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- ..and I lived in a village - called Buttington, on the border...
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- ..until I was seven years old.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- Then we moved to Chesterfield - in Derbyshire.
0:06:01 > 0:06:01- What did your father do?
0:06:01 > 0:06:07- What did your father do?- - He was a lawyer in Welshpool - before he got a job in England.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- He regretted moving, I believe.
0:06:12 > 0:06:17- To return to your childhood, - you didn't speak Welsh, did you?
0:06:17 > 0:06:19- No.
0:06:19 > 0:06:24- My mother came from Ireland - and my father didn't speak Welsh.
0:06:24 > 0:06:30- His grandfather could speak Welsh - but he was the last in the family.
0:06:32 > 0:06:37- I went to St Catherine's College - in Cambridge...
0:06:40 > 0:06:41- ..to study English.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- My father asked me - why was I studying English...
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- ..when I couldn't speak - my own language.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- That made me feel rather ashamed.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- You could only study Middle Welsh - at Cambridge...
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- ..with Dr Rachel Bromwich.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- So I started right at the beginning.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- I learned some Middle Welsh - at Cambridge.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09- Did something important - happen to you...
0:07:09 > 0:07:13- ..that made you - want to become a priest?
0:07:13 > 0:07:17- Something happened - when I was a student at Cambridge.
0:07:17 > 0:07:20- I went on holiday - to Pembrokeshire...
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- ..and I had a spiritual experience - there which began the process.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- Then when I went back - to Cambridge...
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- ..a bishop of the Orthodox Church, - Anthony Bloom...
0:07:34 > 0:07:36- ..made an impression on me.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- I told my friends - I intended to become a priest.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45- They started pulling my leg.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48- They were all firm pagans.
0:07:49 > 0:07:51- They'd take me to parties...
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- ..and introduce me - to the prettiest girl there...
0:07:55 > 0:07:59- ..saying, "This is Patrick, - he's going to be a vicar!"
0:07:59 > 0:08:03- Everyone would laugh, because vicars - are always figures of fun.
0:08:03 > 0:08:05- But I became discouraged...
0:08:05 > 0:08:10- ..and I ran away to Wales - to avoid becoming a priest.
0:08:12 > 0:08:17- You escaped to Aberystwyth to do - a post-graduate degree in English.
0:08:17 > 0:08:19- Yes, that's what I did.
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- But the call caught up with me.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29- I felt I had to give in, in the end.
0:08:30 > 0:08:32- I had a choice.
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- I could either join the Anglican - Church or the Church in Wales.
0:08:38 > 0:08:43- There weren't many Welsh priests - in the Diocese of St David's.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- So I promised to learn Welsh.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50- My father came to see me...
0:08:50 > 0:08:56- ..and he was extremely angry - that I was going to become a priest.
0:08:56 > 0:08:57- He hated priests.
0:08:58 > 0:09:04- But he said he was happy that I was - joining the Church in Wales...
0:09:04 > 0:09:06- ..rather than the Church of England.
0:09:06 > 0:09:11- He bought me the biggest Welsh Bible - he could find in Aberystwyth!
0:09:15 > 0:09:18- Where did you start as a curate?
0:09:18 > 0:09:23- I went back to Aberystwyth - as a curate, with George Noakes...
0:09:23 > 0:09:25- ..who later became Archbishop.
0:09:25 > 0:09:32- On my first day, George told me I - was in charge of the Welsh church.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35- He took me - to St Mary's Welsh Church...
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- ..and told people, - "Here's the new curate...
0:09:39 > 0:09:42- ..don't speak a word of English - to him!"
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- The first six months - were quite tough.
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- I'd been on an Wlpan course - a year before.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52- But I found things quite difficult.
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- I thought I was going deaf - at one time...
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- ..because I couldn't understand - what people were saying.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- George checked my sermons.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04- He arranged for my first sermon...
0:10:04 > 0:10:09- ..to coincide with the lifeboat - service at the English church...
0:10:09 > 0:10:14- ..so there was no-one - in the Welsh church, which helped!
0:10:15 > 0:10:17- That salt box is new.
0:10:17 > 0:10:22- They may have put it there - for the new priest!
0:10:22 > 0:10:26- Maybe young priests aren't as tough - as those of my generation!
0:10:40 > 0:10:40- 888
0:10:40 > 0:10:42- 888- - 888
0:10:49 > 0:10:52- We're approaching - Pant-y-coubal farmyard now.
0:10:53 > 0:10:58- Idris, who lives in Pant-y-coubal, - was a great help to me.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02- He made sure I arrived safely - at Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn...
0:11:04 > 0:11:09- ..which was kind of him, - because he's the chapel secretary.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11- An example - of ecumenical co-operation!
0:11:12 > 0:11:17- And here's one of the most important - characters in the area...
0:11:18 > 0:11:20- ..Jac, the Pant-y-coubal dog!
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- I remember Jac - winning the school raffle.
0:11:24 > 0:11:26- He won a bottle of sherry.
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- I don't know who drank it!
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- Hello, Jac bach!
0:11:30 > 0:11:33- You can still smell the sherry!
0:11:34 > 0:11:36- Sweet thing!
0:11:38 > 0:11:40- THE DOG BARKS
0:11:47 > 0:11:49- Here we are in Gwernogle.
0:11:49 > 0:11:50- Here we are in Gwernogle.- - That's right.
0:11:51 > 0:11:54- The old people called it "Gwarnoge".
0:11:54 > 0:11:55- Gwarnoge?
0:11:56 > 0:11:58- The Post Office.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02- It's hard to believe it now....
0:12:02 > 0:12:08- ..but at one time, after the Second - World War and on into the '50s...
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- ..this was the area's - cultural centre.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- Before the advent of electricity...
0:12:15 > 0:12:19- ..every Friday night, - all the old boys would meet here...
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- ..to compose poetry - and tell stories.
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- There were lots of superb - storytellers in this area.
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- If someone failed to turn up...
0:12:32 > 0:12:36- ..they'd write amusing limericks - and stick them under their door!
0:12:37 > 0:12:39- This was quite a community.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- It's gone now, has it?
0:12:42 > 0:12:43- It's gone now, has it?- - Yes, it's gone.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48- There used to be an eisteddfod - in the chapel at Christmas...
0:12:49 > 0:12:50- ..but it's no longer held.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- ..but it's no longer held.- - 1749 - this is a very old chapel.
0:12:54 > 0:12:56- Yes, the old - Congregational chapel.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02- Gwernogle Congregationalists - were known for their independence.
0:13:14 > 0:13:19- I must say, this church in Brechfa - has a very homely atmosphere.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21- Yes, it does.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23- I feel I've come home.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26- It's a special place.
0:13:26 > 0:13:28- I spent hours in here.
0:13:29 > 0:13:34- I'd come here every morning - and every night, of course.
0:13:34 > 0:13:36- Sometimes I'd be shouting at God...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..and at other times - I'd be at peace with God.
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- The most intense experiences - of my life happened here.
0:13:45 > 0:13:50- So I feel I've come home - when I come to this church.
0:13:50 > 0:13:52- It's very beautiful.
0:13:52 > 0:13:57- What's the significance - of this window above the altar?
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- The window depicts Jesus - - a very gentle portrayal of Jesus.
0:14:02 > 0:14:06- There's St Teilo, - the patron saint of this church.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10- The old name for Brechfa - was Llandeilo Brechfa Gothi.
0:14:12 > 0:14:16- Of course, no-one knows - what St Teilo looked like...
0:14:16 > 0:14:19- ..so the face of William Williams, - Pantycelyn, was the model.
0:14:19 > 0:14:20- ..so the face of William Williams, - Pantycelyn, was the model.- - Is that his face?
0:14:21 > 0:14:22- Yes, Pantycelyn's face.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- These hassocks - are very colourful indeed.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28- What's their history?
0:14:29 > 0:14:33- A group of women, the Teilo - tapestry-makers, made them.
0:14:33 > 0:14:35- They're very interesting.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- They've used three languages.
0:14:38 > 0:14:44- Some of the women were Welsh, some - were English and some were Polish.
0:14:44 > 0:14:50- It says "God is love" in Polish on - the hassock in front of the altar.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- I won't try to say it in Polish!
0:14:54 > 0:14:56- They were amazing people.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- They came and settled - in this part of Wales...
0:15:04 > 0:15:07- ..because it was very similar - to Poland.
0:15:07 > 0:15:11- This was after the Second World War, - of course.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15- We had a warden, Will Jones, - a very special man.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- He worked in forestry.
0:15:18 > 0:15:23- Will became a great friend - of theirs and he helped them.
0:15:24 > 0:15:26- When he died, - after he developed cancer...
0:15:27 > 0:15:31- ..they wanted to give the church - something in his memory.
0:15:31 > 0:15:36- So they donated the crucifix - that stands above the pulpit.
0:15:36 > 0:15:41- Strangely enough, the face - of the figure on this cross...
0:15:41 > 0:15:46- ..which had been carved by an artist - in some Polish village...
0:15:46 > 0:15:48- ..was incredibly similar - to Will's face.
0:15:53 > 0:15:55- That was extremely strange...
0:15:55 > 0:15:58- ..because the carver - had never seen Will.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- It's a worthy memorial - to a very special man.
0:16:06 > 0:16:12- It's good to know that Brechfa - remains a very Welsh area.
0:16:12 > 0:16:16- It's an agricultural area, - and it has unique characters.
0:16:16 > 0:16:18- Yes, that's true.
0:16:20 > 0:16:22- People like Albert the Blacksmith.
0:16:22 > 0:16:27- Albert lives in Carmarthen but he - still keeps Brechfa smithy going.
0:16:29 > 0:16:34- It's good for retired farmers, who - can spend their time with Albert.
0:16:36 > 0:16:41- Patrick, this pub is very close - to the church, just across the road.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44- Yes.
0:16:44 > 0:16:47- Lots of churches have pubs nearby.
0:16:47 > 0:16:51- The old church here - was even closer to the pub.
0:16:51 > 0:16:56- The church and the pub - were the focus of the community.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58- They go together.
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- I bet there've been - some lively evenings here!
0:17:03 > 0:17:04- Certainly.
0:17:05 > 0:17:09- Tippit evenings are popular - for fund-raising in this area.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- I remember one tippit evening - in particular.
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- We were nearing the end.
0:17:15 > 0:17:19- That's the only time - I ever won at tippit.
0:17:19 > 0:17:25- We were playing against the senior - deacon of the chapel and his team!
0:17:25 > 0:17:28- My team were all church-goers!
0:17:28 > 0:17:32- The rectory is also - near the church and the pub.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- Yes, they form a triangle.
0:17:38 > 0:17:41- A few visitors - called with us at the rectory.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45- Our most famous guest - was Germaine Greer.
0:17:45 > 0:17:48- I was publishing a book with her.
0:17:48 > 0:17:52- As it happened, my wife, Helen, - was away at the time.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56- She was away - at her grandmother's wedding...
0:17:57 > 0:17:59- ..and she'd taken the children.
0:17:59 > 0:18:05- Her grandmother was 90, and she - married an 80-year-old toy boy!
0:18:06 > 0:18:10- Very few children attend - their great-grandmother's wedding!
0:18:10 > 0:18:14- So off they went, - then Germaine Greer phoned.
0:18:14 > 0:18:17- The Hay Festival was on at the time.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- She wanted to come over - for Sunday lunch.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- Of course, - Sunday is a busy day for me.
0:18:25 > 0:18:30- All I had in the fridge - was a Marks & Spencer quiche.
0:18:31 > 0:18:35- She looked at it - and didn't fancy it at all!
0:18:35 > 0:18:41- So we came over here for a - publisher's lunch, as she called it.
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- She ordered salmon and champagne!
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- We sat in the window - of the Forest Arms.
0:18:48 > 0:18:52- So there I was on the Sabbath, - with a strange woman...
0:18:53 > 0:18:55- ..drinking champagne - and eating salmon...
0:18:55 > 0:18:58- ..and some chapel elders - walked past!
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- I had a lot of explaining to do!
0:19:05 > 0:19:08- We're nearing the end - of our journey.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11- We're now in the third parish.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- We're approaching Abergorlech.
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- This is the river Gorlech.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- Its name derives from the unusual - spider-web patterned stones...
0:19:21 > 0:19:23- ..that are found in the river.
0:19:24 > 0:19:26- Are there fish in the river?
0:19:26 > 0:19:27- Are there fish in the river?- - Not many these days.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- There are fish in the Cothi, - which the Gorlech joins.
0:19:32 > 0:19:34- The vicar of Abergorlech...
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- ..has the right to fish - on part of the river Cothi.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- ..has the right to fish - on part of the river Cothi.- - Did you go fishing much?
0:19:40 > 0:19:43- I was never much good at fishing!
0:19:43 > 0:19:46- Eric Grey, my predecessor, - enjoyed fishing.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49- I allowed the village children - to fish in my part of the river.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51- I allowed the village children - to fish in my part of the river.- - Well done!
0:19:53 > 0:19:57- You've now left this area - and moved to Carmarthen.
0:19:58 > 0:20:02- It isn't far, but it must be - a different world.
0:20:02 > 0:20:04- Yes, it is.
0:20:04 > 0:20:06- It's a different society.
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- I was here for so many years, - I knew everyone.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15- I'm starting to settle in Carmarthen - but it's quite different.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20- You new job carries a lot - of responsibility.
0:20:20 > 0:20:24- You help out at the cathedral - in St David's.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26- That must be quite an honour.
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- That must be quite an honour.- - Yes, it's an honour - to be at St David's Cathedral.
0:20:31 > 0:20:33- St David's is strange.
0:20:33 > 0:20:36- The Queen is also a canon there.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- Her seat is near my seat.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- But she's only ever - sat near me once...
0:20:44 > 0:20:45- ..and all she said then - was "Good morning!"
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- ..and all she said then - was "Good morning!"- - Really? In Welsh or in English?
0:20:48 > 0:20:49- In English, I'm afraid!
0:20:49 > 0:20:53- In English, I'm afraid!- - You should teach her - a few words of Welsh!
0:20:54 > 0:20:55- You go first.
0:20:55 > 0:21:00- So only a small part of your work - is in Pembrokeshire.
0:21:00 > 0:21:05- Yes, but I get a chance to write - when I'm there.
0:21:05 > 0:21:07- What do you write?
0:21:07 > 0:21:11- At the moment I'm starting to write - my autobiography.
0:21:13 > 0:21:19- I hope to call it "Ffeirad y - Fforest" after my years in Brechfa.
0:21:22 > 0:21:26- Abergorlech, the end of our journey, - by the river Cothi.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- Once again, the pub - is close to the church.
0:21:29 > 0:21:30- Once again, the pub - is close to the church.- - Yes.
0:21:30 > 0:21:37- At one time, we were worried the - church would fall on top of the pub!
0:21:37 > 0:21:38- It's safe, so far!
0:21:38 > 0:21:40- It's safe, so far!- - This is a very tidy village.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- Yes.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45- It's a very pretty village.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47- There's a reason for that.
0:21:48 > 0:21:53- There were plans to drown - this village in the early '60s.
0:21:53 > 0:21:57- The people of Abergorlech protested - but no-one listened.
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- So they decided to enter - a best kept village competition.
0:22:05 > 0:22:08- And they won, year after year.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13- Consequently, they couldn't drown - the best kept village in Wales!
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- Very crafty!
0:22:15 > 0:22:18- Patrick, I've really enjoyed - the journey.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20- We've visited the three parishes.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- All three are very different - in their own way.
0:22:23 > 0:22:24- All three are very different - in their own way.- - Yes, they're very different.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28- Each parish - has its own unique character...
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- ..and a lot of unique characters - live here.
0:22:32 > 0:22:35- People say parochialism - is a bad thing.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- But personally, - I enjoy being a parish priest.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43- I enjoy being parochial sometimes!
0:23:17 > 0:23:20- S4C subtitles by- TROSOL Cyf.
0:23:20 > 0:23:22